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Contents 1 The Workroom Patternmaking tools 2 Pattern paper 5 Patternmaking terms 5 Pattern Production terms 6 Cost sheet 10 Pattern chart 11 The Design Specifications Sheet 12 The dart 13 Trueing, blending, pin marking, and tape marking 17 Fabric terms 18 Pattern grainline 20 Balance line terms 21 Special information 22 2 Model Form and Measurements Who is the standard ideal figure? 24 Pattern industry standards 25 Department store standards 25 Other attempts at standardization 25 ASTM standards 25 Landmark terms 26 Symbol key 26 Measuring the form 27 Circumference measurements 28 Horizontal balance line (HBL) 28 Horizontal measurements 29 Vertical measurements 30 Strap Measurements 30 Standard measurement chart 31 3 Drafting the Basic Pattern Set THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATION 34 Front bodice draft 35 Back bodice draft 37 Fitting the bodice 40 Fitting the neckline 41 Fitting the armhole 41 SKIRT DRAFT 43 Personal dart intake chart 43 Skirt front 43 Skirt back 45 Fitting the skirt 46 PREPARING PATTERNS FOR TEST FIT 48 Trueing basic patterns 48 THE BASIC SLEEVE 50 Sleeve terminology 50 CAP EASE 51 Armhole measurement 51 SLEEVE DRAFT 52 ADJUSTING SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE OF BODICE 54 Determining cap ease 54 Adjusting the armhole to accommodate cap ease 56 Increase or decrease the width of the biceps 57 Setting the sleeve into the armhole 58 Evaluate the hang and fit of the sleeve 58 Increase or decrease cap height 59 SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS 61 COMPLETING THE PATTERN 62 Pattern information 63 MODEL MEASUREMENT CHART 63 4 Dart Manipulation (Principle #1) Introduction 66 Working patterns 66 Patternmaking techniques 66 Design analysis and the three majorpatternmaking principles 66 Patternmaking terms 67 Test fit 67 DART MANIPULATION-PRINCIPLE #1 68 Design projects 68 Charting dart locations 68 Charting the front basic pattern 69 SINGLE-DART SERIES-SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE 70 Center front waist dart 70 Center front neck dart 72 Mid-shoulder dart 73 French dart 74 SINGLE-DART SERIES?PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE 75 Mid-neck dart 75 Side dart 77 Mid-armhole dart 78 Shoulder-tip dart 79 SELF-EVALUATION TEST 80 Consistency of dart angle 82 Proof of Principle #1 82 TWO-DART SERIES-SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE 83 Two-dart working pattern 83 Waist and side dart 83 Mid-shoulder and waist dart 85 Mid-armhole and waist dart 86 TWO-DART SERIES?PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE 87 Mid-neck and waist dart 87 Shoulder-tip and waist 88 Center front neck and waist dart 89 SELF-EVALUATION TEST 90 THE SHOULDER DART 91 The multidispersion working pattern 91 The back neck dart 92 Excess transferred to armhole 92 5 Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers) Introduction 94 Tuck-darts 95 Pleats 96 Flare 96 Gathers 97 DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQUIVALENTS 100 Waist cluster 100 Dart cluster 101 Tuck-dart cluster 102 Pleat cluster 102 Shoulder cluster 103 Center front bust cluster 104 GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS 105 Graduated darts 105 Radiating darts 106 PARALLEL DARTS 107 Parallel french darts 107 Parallel darts at neck 108 Parallel darts-cape effect 109 Parallel dart design variations 110 ASYMMETRIC DARTS 111 Asymmetric radiating darts 111 Asymmetric curved darts 113 Asymmetric dart variations 114 INTERSECTING DARTS 115 Intersecting dart to waist 115 Intersecting dart with gathers 116 Intersecting dart design variations 117 6 Stylelines Introduction 120 THE CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE 120 Classic princess styleline variations 123 ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE 124 Armhole princess styleline variations 126 THE PANEL STYLELINE 127 Panel styleline variations 129 7 Added Fullness (Principle #2) ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2 132 Three types of added fullness 132 Identifying added fullness 133 Fullness along princess line 134 Fullness at a semi-yoke above bust 135 Added fullness to a dart leg 136 Gathers on a style dart 137 Fullness around neck band 138 Added fullness design variations 139 THE BLOUSON FOUNDATION 140 Modified blouson 141 Blouson with increased fullness 142 8 Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks YOKES FOR BODICE 144 Basic front yoke-slash and spread 144 Basic back yoke-pivotal or transfer 145 Back yoke with inverted box pleat 146 Back yoke with added fullness/gathers 146 Back yoke with action pleat 147 Yoke design variations 147 THE FLANGE 148 Dart flange 148 Flange to waist 149 Flange inset 151 Flange design variations 153 PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TUCKS 154 Pleat tucks 154 Pin Tucks 156 9 Contouring (Principle #3) CONTOURING: PRINCIPLE #3 158 Contour designs 158 Figure versus basic garment 159 Fitting problems 159 THE CONTOUR GUIDEPATTERNS 160 Preparing the contour guide patterns 160 Measure depth of the hollow areas and chart the patterns 161 Guideline 1?Cut out necklines 161 Guideline 2?Cut out armholes 161 Guideline 3?Armhole ease 162 Guideline 4?Empire styleline 162 Guideline 5?Contour between the busts 163 Guideline 6?Strapless designs 163 Shoulder Slope and Side Ease 164 Guideline 7?Back 164 How to use the contour guide pattern 165 THE CLASSIC EMPIRE 168 Empire with shirred midriff 170 SURPLICE (OR WRAP) DESIGNS 172 OFF-SHOULDER DESIGNS 174 Gathered shoulder 174 HALTERS 176 V-Neck halter 176 10 Collars Introduction 178 Collar terms 178 Collar stand and roll types 179 Collar classifications 179 BASIC SHIRT COLLARFOUNDATION 180 Straight collar 180 Undercollar 181 Folded basic collar 182 Increasing collar width 182 Collar variations 182 Fit problems of the collar 183 PETER PAN COLLARS 184 Three basic Peter Pan collars 184 Peter Pan with 1-inch stand (full roll) 185 Peter Pan with 1/2-inch stand (partial roll) 186 Peter Pan with flat roll 187 SAILOR COLLAR 188 Basic sailor collar 188 Sailor with extension 189 Sailor with inset 190 COLLARS WITH DEEP OPEN NECKLINES 191 Collar for V-neck 191 Collar for square neck 191 MANDARIN COLLAR 192 Basic Mandarin 192 Mandarin collar variations 193 COLLAR WITH STAND 194 WIDE COLLAR AND STAND 195 COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE NECKLINE 196 ALL-IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND 197 ROLL COLLARS 198 Turtle neck 199 Roll collar and cutaway neck 199 COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS 200 11 Built-up Necklines BUILT-UP NECKLINES 202 Stovepipe neckline 202 Built-up bateau neckline 204 INSET BANDS 206 Rounded inset band 206 INSET BAND VARIATIONS 207 12 Cowls COWLS 210 Types of cowls 210 Nature of the bias-cut 211 Twisting 211 Making patterns for bias-cut cowls 211 Fitting the cut garment 212 Correcting the pattern 213 High relaxed cowl 214 Mid-depth cowl 216 Low cowl 218 Deep cowl 219 BACK COWLS 221 High-back cowl 221 Mid-back cowl 223 Low-back cowl 223 ARMHOLE COWLS 224 One-piece armhole cowl 225 PLEATED COWLS 226 Pleated shoulder cowl 226 EXAGGERATED COWLS 228 High exaggerated cowl 228 INSET COWLS 230 V-inset cowl 230 13 Skirts/Circles and Cascades Introduction 234 Skirt lengths 234 Four skirt foundations 235 Flexibility of skirt darts 236 LOW-WAISTED AND HIGH-WAISTED SKIRTS 237 Low-waisted skirt 237 High-waisted skirt 238 BASIC WAISTBAND 240 FLARED SKIRTS 241 A-line flare skirt 241 Basic flared skirt 243 One-dart skirt foundation 245 Flared skirt based on one-dart pattern 246 Added flare skirt 247 SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES 249 Gathered flared skirt 250 Gathered dirndl skirt 253 Clinging hipline with flare skirt?the slinky 254 GORED SKIRTS 256 4-gore Flared Skirt 256 6-gore Flared Skirt 257 Moderate Hemline Sweep 258 6-gore skirt-greater hemline sweep 260 8-gore flared skirt 262 10-gore skirt with pleats 263 12-gore skirt 266 12-gore design variations 267 12-gore graduated fare 268 Zig-zag 12-gore skirt 270 Gore cowl skirt 272 PEGGED SKIRT SILHOUETTE 273 Pegged skirt with gathers 273 Pegged skirt with pleats 274 DRAPED SKIRT WITH A CASCADE WRAP 275 Asymmetric radiating gathers 276 SKIRTS WITH YOKES 278 Yoke with gathered skirt 278 Diagonal yoke with flared skirt 280 TIERS 282 Terms 282 Attached tiers 282 Separated tiers 284 Peplums 287 PLEATS 288 Types of pleats 288 Pleat terminology 289 Kick pleats 289 All-around pleated skirt 291 Inverted box-pleated skirt 293 GODETS 296 Basic godet 296 Godet variations 297 WRAP SKIRT 298 Wrap skirt with side seam 298 All-in-one wrap skirt 299 CIRCLES, PEPLUMS, AND CASCADES 300 Terminology 301 Circle within a circle 301 Parts of a circle skirt 301 CIRCLE/CASCADE RADIUS CHART 302 Use of the radius chart 302 CIRCULAR SKIRTS 303 Full-circle skirt 303 Grainline placement 306 Three-quarter-circle skirt 307 Half-circle skirt 308 Quarter-circle skirt 309 Two circles at waist 310 Gathered circular skirt 310 SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN HEMLINES 311 Circular skirt with handkerchief Hem 311 Circular skirt with graduated-length hemline 312 SKIRT DESIGN VARIATIONS 314 14 Sleeves INTRODUCTION 316 Set-in sleeve 316 Terminology 317 Elbow darts 317 Shoulder pads 318 SLEEVE CUFFS 318 Basic shirt cuff 319 Self-faced cuff 319 French cuffs 319 Contoured cuff 320 Cuff based on dartless pattern 320 Roll-up cuffs 321 CAP SLEEVES 322 Jutting cap 322 DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN 323 PUFF SLEEVES 324 Fullness at hem 325 Fullness at cap 326 Fullness at hem and cap 326 CIRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES 327 Half-circle sleeve 327 Full-circle sleeve 328 Bell sleeves 330 PETAL SLEEVES 331 Plain petal 331 Gathered petal 332 Flared petal 332 LANTERN SLEEVES 333 Long lantern sleeve 333 Short lantern sleeve 335 SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS 336 Darted cap 336 Crescent-shaped, extended cap 337 Gathered crescent sleeve 338 Sleeve with vertical pleat 339 LEG-OF-MUTTON SLEEVES 340 COWL SLEEVE 341 WEDDING SLEEVE 342 SLEEVE VARIATIONS WITH PATTERNS 343 SLEEVE WITH LOWERED ARMHOLE 344 BASIC BISHOP SLEEVE 346 EXAGGERATED BISHOP SLEEVE 348 15 Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODICE COMBINATIONS 350 BASIC KIMONO 351 Kimono draft 351 Short sleeve kimono 353 BASIC DOLMAN 354 ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS 355 Kimono with shoulder dart 355 Full-sleeve kimono (without overarm seam) 356 Tapered sleeve (without overarm seam) 357 Kimono and dolman variations 357 KIMONO TORSO FOUNDATION 358 Basic Kimono torso draft 358 OVERSIZED KIMONO 359 Kimono draft 359 KIMONO DRESS 360 CAFTAN 362 KIMONO WITH GUSSET 364 RAGLAN SLEEVE 368 One-piece raglan 372 Deep armhole raglan 373 Raglan variations 374 Armhole-princess raglan 374 Yoke raglan with bell sleeve 375 Other designs based on raglan foundation 375 DROP SHOULDER 376 Drop shoulder draft 376 Drop shoulder with shoulder pad and lowered armhole 378 Drop shoulder variations 380 EXAGGERATED ARMHOLES 381 Deep-cut square armhole 381 Square armhole with gathered three-quarter sleeve 383 16 Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES 388 Basic types of buttons 389 Types of buttonholes 389 Closure 389 Button and buttonhole placement guide 390 FACINGS 392 Types of facings 392 Facings for cutout necklines and armholes 393 17 Plackets and Pockets PLACKETS 398 Pointed placket with facing-in-one 398 Wing collar placket 400 Slit opening with placket 402 POCKETS 403 Pocket classification 403 OUTSIDE POCKETS 403 Patch pocket 403 Patch pocket variations 404 Pouch pocket 405 Accordion pocket 406 Stylized outside pocket 408 INSERTED POCKET 409 Stylized opening 409 Variation of an inserted pocket 410 Pocket in-one with side seam 410 Pocket in-one with yoke 411 INSERT POCKETS-SIDE-SEAM POCKET 412 Pocket with gathered front 412 Pocket with control lining 413 18 Dresses without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation) TORSO FOUNDATION 416 DRESS CATEGORIES 421 THREE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATIONS 421 PRINCESS-LINE FOUNDATION 423 A-line princess 424 PANEL DRESS FOUNDATION 426 EMPIRE FOUNDATION 428 TENT FOUNDATION 430 OVERSIZED DRESS 432 JUMPER 433 SPECIAL PATTERNMAKING PROBLEMS 434 Gathers crossing dart areas 434 Stylelines crossing dart areas 435 Stylized one-piece front 436 19 Strapless Foundations and Interconstruction Introduction 440 Three Strapless Foundations 440 STRAPLESS PRINCESS BODICE FOUNDATIONS 1 AND 2 441 PRINCESS WITH GATHERED PANELS 443 BRA-TOP TORSO FOUNDATION 444 PRINCESS TORSO FOUNDATION 446 FITTING PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS 448 CONSTRUCTION SUPPORT FOR STRAPLESS GARMENTS 450 Types of Interconstructions 451 Types of Boning 451 Preparing Patterns for the Undersupport 452 20 Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses Introduction 458 Natural bias-cut fabric 458 Patternmaking for bias-cut fabric 458 Two methods for reducing bias stretch 458 FABRIC SELECTIONS FOR BIAS-CUT GARMENTS 458 SLIP DRESS WITH A SLINKY SKIRT 459 TWIST BODICE WITH A SLINKY SKIRT 465 ALL-IN-ONE BIAS DRESSES 468 Design Variations 470 21 Shirts SHIRT AND BLOUSE FOUNDATIONS 472 Three shirt and blouse foundations 473 YOKE SHIRT AND SLEEVE 474 Shirt or blouse draft 475 Basic shirtsleeve 477 Sleeve hemline options 478 Closure options 479 One-piece sleeve placket 480 Shirt facing and band variations 481 Hidden button or buttonhole closure 483 CASUAL SHIRT AND SLEEVE FOUNDATION 484 Casual shirt draft 484 LARGE SHIRT FOUNDATION 487 PEASANT BLOUSE 490 22 Jackets and Coats JACKET AND COAT FOUNDATION 494 Terms and definitions 494 THE JACKET OR COAT DRAFT 494 Sleeve draft for jacket and coat 496 Grading the jacket sleeve 498 Grading terminology 498 Tailored two-piece sleeve 500 LAPEL DESIGNS 502 Basic notched lapel 502 Low-notch lapel 506 Portrait lapel 508 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET WITH LAPEL 510 THE MANNISH JACKET FOUNDATION 511 The mannish jacket draft 511 JACKET STYLELINES 512 The wraparound styleline 512 The panel styleline 515 DESIGN VARIATIONS 516 SHAWL FOUNDATION 517 Shawl draft 517 Shawl collar variations 518 Wide shawl collars 519 Shawl collar with separated undercollar and facing 520 INTERCONSTRUCTION FOR JACKET AND COATS 521 Terms and definitions 521 Guide for interconstruction placements 522 STYLE JACKET WITH FACING, LINING, AND INTERCONSTRUCTION 523 Facing 524 Lining 525 Outer garment 527 Collar 528 23 Capes and Hoods CAPES 530 A-line cape foundation 530 Flared cape foundation 532 HOODS 534 How to measure for hood draft 534 Contoured hood foundation 534 Contoured hood design 538 Loose hood foundation 539 24 Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs Knock-off methods 542 T-tops 542 Shirt types 543 Pant types 545 Jacket copy 548 25 Pants BIFURCATED?WHAT?S THAT? 554 THE LEG RELATIVE TO THE PANT 555 Pant terminology 555 Analysis of pant foundations 556 Measuring for the pant draft 557 Summary of the pant foundations 559 Measuring for the pant draft 558 Culotte?foundation 1 560 Trouser?foundation 2 562 Slack?foundation 3 566 Jean?foundation 4 567 Dartless jean pant 570 Variations of the jean fit 571 COMPLETING THE PANT PATTERN 572 How to true the pant pattern 572 Seam allowance 573 PANT DESIGNS 574 Box-pleated culotte 574 Gaucho pant 575 Culotte with wide-sweeping hemline 577 Pleated trouser (for women and men) 578 Baggy pant (for women and men) 580 Pull-on pant with self-casing 581 High-waisted pant (for women and men) 582 Hip-hugger 583 Jean with back yoke (for women and men) 584 Contour pant with creaseline flare 586 Pant with flared leg (for women and men) 587 Pant with curved hemline 588 Pleated cowl-draped pant 589 Clown pant 591 Geometric-draped pant 592 PANT DERIVATIVES 594 Shorty-shorts 595 Shorts 596 Jamaicas 596 Bermudas 597 Pedal pushers 597 Toreador 598 Capri 598 Design variations 599 JUMPSUIT FOUNDATION 600 Jean jumpsuit foundation 601 Culotte jumpsuit foundation 602 Mini coverall 603 Oversized jumpsuit 605 Great coverall 606 Jumpsuit design variations 608 26 Knits?Stretch and Shrinkage Factors Introduction 610 Stretch and recovery factor 610 Stretch and recovery gauge 611 Classification of knit fabrics 612 Direction of stretch 612 ADAPTING PATTERNS TO KNITS 613 The shrinkage factor 613 The stretch factor 614 27 Knit Foundation KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 616 Dartless stretchy knit?draft 1 616 Dartless firm knit?draft 2 618 Oversized knit top?draft 3 619 Crop top with a muscle sleeve 621 Knit top 622 28 Actionwear for Dance and Exercise BODYSUITS AND LEOTARDS 624 BODYSUIT FOUNDATION 624 METHOD FOR CORRECTING PATTERN TO IMPROVE FIT 627 LYCRA SLEEVE DRAFT 628 No-side-seam bodysuit 628 One-piece bodysuit 629 BODYSUIT DESIGN VARIATIONS 630 Bodysuit with scooped neck and cutouts 630 Bodysuit with high-necked halter top 631 Separated bodysuit 633 Tights 634 Stirrups 634 LEOTARD FOUNDATION 635 METHOD FOR CORRECTING PATTERN TO IMPROVE FIT 638 All-in-one leotard 639 Color-block design for leotard 639 LEOTARD DESIGN VARIATIONS 641 Empire-cut leotard 641 Leotard with raglan sleeve 642 Basic tank leotard 644 Off-the-shoulder leotard 645 29 Swimwear SWIMWEAR TYPES 648 MAILLOT FOUNDATION 649 Basic tank-top maillot 651 Maillot with bra lining 652 Maillot with color blocking 654 Princess maillot 655 Maillot with inset bra 657 Asymmetric maillot 658 BIKINI FOUNDATION 659 Bikini based on maillot or leotard foundation 659 Bikini based on front skirt foundation 659 BIKINI BOTTOM VARIATIONS 660 Bikini without center seams 660 All-in-one bikini 660 High-cut leg bikini 661 BIKINI TOP VARIATIONS 663 Princess-line bikini top 663 Strap variations 664 Bra top with horizontal styleline 665 Bra tops for bikini bottoms 666 String-a-long bikini top 669 Bandeau bikini top 670 LITTLE-BOY LEGLINEFOUNDATION 671 Little-boy legline variations 672 Slit legline 672 FULL-FIGURE SWIM FOUNDATION 674 Swimsuit with skirt front 675 SUPPLIES AND SPECIAL INFORMATION 677 Use of elastic 677 Finishing crotch and shoulder 678 Bra cups for swimwear 679 Attaching straps to swimsuit 681 30 Introduction to Childrenswear Size categories for childrenswear 685 Sizing methods 685 SOURCES OF INSPIRATION 686 CHILDREN?S FASHION REFERENCES 686 Fashion magazines and services 686 Historical references 687 31 Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Measurement Taking, Standard Measurement Charts MEASURING THE FORM 690 Form preparation 690 Armhole depth chart 690 Torso circumference measurements 690 Vertical measurements 691 Horizontal measurements 691 Leg measurements 692 STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHARTS 693 Boys and girls (3-6X) 693 Boys and girls (7-14) 694 THE BASIC PATTERN SET 695 The basic pattern for boyswear 695 Front bodice draft 695 Back bodice draft 696 DARTS AND DART EQUIVALENTS 697 Basic skirt draft 698 Basic sleeve 699 Sleeve draft measurements 699 32 Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts COLLARS 702 Shirt collar 702 Straight shirt collar 702 Peter Pan collar 703 Sailor collar 704 Collar with stand 705 DARTLESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION 706 Dartless sleeve draft 706 Puff sleeves 707 Hemline gathers?design 1 707 Sleeve cap gathers?design 2 708 Cap and hemline gathers?design 3 708 SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS 709 Cap sleeve?design 1 709 Ruffled sleeve?design 2 710 Saucer sleeve?design 3 710 Baby puff sleeve?design 4 710 Drawstring sleeve 711 PETAL SLEEVE 712 Petal draft 712 BELL SLEEVE 713 Bell sleeve draft 713 LEG-O-MUTTON SLEEVE 714 Leg-o-mutton draft 714 SKIRTS 715 Flared skirt 716 Gathered skirt with stylized waistband 717 Yoked circular skirt 728 33 Dresses and Jumpers THE SHIFT FOUNDATION 722 Shift draft 722 Princess styleline 723 Empire with flare 725 TENT FOUNDATION 728 TENT VARIATIONS 729 The bib jumper 729 Tank-top jumper 730 Torso jumper 731 34 Tops DARTLESS TOP FOUNDATION 734 The dartless shirt draft 734 BASIC SHIRT AND SLEEVE FOUNDATION 736 The shirt draft 736 SHIRT SLEEVE 738 Shirt sleeve draft 738 OVERSIZED SHIRT AND SLEEVE 740 Oversized shirt draft 740 Oversized shirt sleeve draft 741 KNIT FOUNDATION AND SLEEVE 742 Knit draft 742 Knit sleeve draft 743 Modified knit top 744 Tank top 745 KIMONO FOUNDATION 746 Kimono draft 747 RAGLAN FOUNDATION 748 Raglan draft 748 Raglan sleeve 750 JACKET FOUNDATION 751 Sleeve modification 751 Jacket draft 751 Jacket with notched collar 752 Cardigan jacket 754 Cardigan draft 754 Vest 755 COAT AND SLEEVE FOUNDATIONS 756 Sleeve draft 756 Coat draft 7567 NAVY PEA COAT 757 35 Pant and Jumpsuits INTRODUCTION TO PANTS 762 TROUSER FOUNDATION 762 Trouser draft 762 SLACK FOUNDATION 764 Slack draft 764 JEAN FOUNDATION 765 Jean draft 765 WAISTLINE OPTIONS 766 Waistband draft 766 Waist held with a waistband 766 Elastic control 766 Partial waistband and elastic 767 PANT VARIATIONS 768 Pleated trouser draft 768 Hammer baggy pant 769 Short bib pant 770 Yoke-pleated pant 772 Western jean 773 Bell-bottom pants 775 GUIDELINE MARKING FOR PANT DERIVATIVES 777 Definitions 777 Flared shorts 778 Shorty shorts 779 Knickers 779 JUMPSUIT FOUNDATION 780 Jumpsuit draft 781 Jumpsuit with blousing 782 Oversized jumpsuit 782 Tank-top jumpsuit 783 Tank draft 783 Bib overall 784 36 Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear BODYSUIT 788 Tank-top bodysuit draft 789 BODYSUIT WITH SLEEVES 790 Bodysuit draft 790 Lycra knit sleeve 790 TIGHTS WITH TOP 791 TANK-TOP LEOTARD 792 Leotard draft 792 LEOTARD WITH SLEEVE 793 MAILLOT FOUNDATION 794 Maillot draft 794 BIKINI SWIMSUIT 795 Bikini draft 795 Index 815
Library of Congress Subject Headings for this publication: Dressmaking Pattern design