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1. The Era of Gochosun) According to Dangun2) mythology, one day the bear and the tiger asked for Hwanwung3) to become human, and Hwanwung gave to them "a bunch of mugwort and 20 pieces of garlic" and said "You will be human if you won't look at the sunlight for 100 days after eating these things.". The bear followed such direction and could become a beautiful woman after 21 days, but the tiger violated such direction and couldn't be a person. Through this mythology, we can assume the beauty environment at that time. That is, mugwort and garlic were used as beauty materials. These two things are still being used for beauty by adding to the food and bath water. Garlic is not much used for cosmetic cream or toner comparing with mugwort because it has spicy flavor that lasts for long hours. Considering beauty function create better appearance, change of the bear to human being after eating mugwort seemed to be the concept of the people at that time. In other words, application of the cosmetics was not developed, instead, it was recognized that better appearance could be made by taking the food effective for beauty. We can also presume that the principle concept of beauty at that time was white skin, through the story that "the tiger couldn't become human because he looked at the sunlight". Restriction not to see the sunlight was to make white skin. In the winter, the people of Euproo(ancient Korean province) applied pork oil to the skin to prevent sun tan, and the people in Malgal(another ancient Korean province) washed their face with urine. Pork oil contains the element whitening and smoothening the skin, so it have been used by the European people for skin massage. Urine took a role of soap when the soap was not available, to remove oily dust like pork oil and to get whitening effect to the skin. In the book, F-History of Garak Nationj, it is described that "beautiful woman of square forehead politely came to the King". This is expression of the situation when the princess Huh, Hwang-Ok of Ahwita state met the King Suro. Square forehead is widened by picking up the hairs around the border of the head and forehead, through which we can guess that "short hair-picking beauty" using the tools were in fashion. Square forehead is recorded as a symbol of woman of high virtue until later in Chosun dynasty. To make square forehead, precise tool would be needed, and it was presumed that the short hair-picking tool was developed for such need. Among the relics of Gochosun era, "Cheongdong Mirror" shows detailed carving at the back, through which we can imagine the emotion of the people in those days. The mirror at that time was used as a tool reflecting the soul as well as the appearance. We can trace its root through the Shamans who hold the mirror when telling fortune or while attempting the figure out the ghost attached to the patient. The record that the people of Mahan and Byeonjin4) tattooed like the ancient Japanese people means that seeping skill was in fashion as men's cosmetic means. The beauty custom in Gochosun era was to express the healthy beauty of whole body by taking the food corresponding to such purpose. instead of making beautiful face only. The women at that time was fond of making white skin and clean clothing fashion. 2. The Era of Samguk5) After the era of Gochosun with beauty food fashion, a more diversified beautifying culture was developed in the era of Samguk with inducement of Buddhism, The eyebrow and lip line of Buddha influenced the development of "drawing beauty" of the women, and bathing of Buddhist priests to make the body clean before performing sacrificial rite to Buddha were propagated to the public. It was developed to the spa bathing together with general bathing, and bathing for medical treatment was also developed gradually. As the influence by Buddhism, use of perfumery increased rapidly, and they were transferred to personal cosmetic use from religious use. Then the method of burning incense and body perfuming appeared. Among the women in Kokuryo (one of 3 states in northern area), application of rouge to the cheeks and lips were in fashion, so that the manufacturing technique of rouges was exported to Japan. In Shilla and Baekje (two other states in the southern area), Yeonji application was not so developed. In particular, development of Yeonji application in Kokuryo was to protect the skin from strong winds and to hide the pale face and emphasize the healthy beauty. The people of Kokuryo was fond of thick colorful makeup. The women in Baekje and Shilla had more interest in hair decoration than facial makeup. Therefore beautiful hair design and accessories were developed. Particularly, a culture of incense was developed in these two states, and the trading of expensive perfume materials like musk was made with China. Perfumes were used in the rooms at home as a form of burning incense in addition to the use for Buddhist ceremonies and for personal memorial services, Religious nature was weakened and they were generally used as aromatic to refresh the mind and to attract the opposite sex by stimulating the smelling sense. Before unification, Shilla used the beautiful women to check the personality of the men, but later stopped it due to scandals. Thereafter, the state mobilized young men and made the group named "Hwarang6'" to train them in the nature to have both intelligence and good personality. The concept of beauty of Shilla people was "beautiful appearance from the beautiful mind", and they believed that good personality would begin from learning to have a love for beautiful sounds of nature. Women's beauty in the era of Tongil Shilla (unified Shilla state) became more and more luxurious in dressing and cosmetic aspects. Luxurious cosmetic means colorful makeup. Differently from the Shilla people, Tongil Shilla people matched hair design with colorful makeup, and, according to the order of King Munmu to make the same dress fashion, it is presumed that the Chinese cosmetic fashion was introduced and rouge makeup came into fashion, In addition, men's beauty was much more developed by Hwarang knights, comparing with any other times. 3. The Era of Koryo in this era, facial makeup applying facial powder and drawing the eyebrow was much developed. As the envoys were traded with China and the king of Koryo became the son-in-law of Won (ancient Chinese state). the clothing and makeup fashion of the princess of Won gave a big effect to the women of Koryo and the beauty culture of Koryo was also disseminated in Won by the "Donated Women". According to Suh Geung, the author of rKoryo do kyungj who came to Koryo as an envoy of Won, the women of Koryo enjoyed applying the facial powder, but was not fond of rouge and perfume oil. The fashion of bright colors in the previous era disappeared, and tapping cosmetic culture was developed instead. The lead powder applied by tapping in this era which was extracted from the lead pieces damaged the skin with strong toxity, because lead powder has no adhesive, people sought for individual cosmetic method for the facial powder not to be separated from the face. Of course, the puff and case for facial powder were produced according to the needs. For the eye makeup including eyebrow drawing and eye shadow coloring in this era, the eyebrow was drawn in the shape of willow leaf by using eyebrow pencil, and coloring makeup using the powder was widely developed in the era of Chosun. Nadai is the shape of the eyebrow brush which was developed at that time. High interest in the face washing agent and water to remove the cosmetics was to avoid adverse effect of coloring makeup to the skin. We can see the women's discreet mind through the washing bowls which were carved of beautiful design. At the end of Koryo era, cosmetic skills were more developed by the influence of the culture of Won, which affected the cosmetic and dress fashion of the kisaengl of special class with luxurious ornaments. Though the perfumed oil was not so enjoyed, but not disappeared. With continued worship of Buddhism since the era of Samguk, the perfumes were commonly used and various skills using the perfumes were designed. Those were juniper furnitures including the bed to decorate the rooms, bug-conquering method, clothes permeated of perfume steam, and taste food such as flavor tea, flavor liquor, etc. In this era, mixed bathing of women and men was accepted. The people used to enjoy bathing at the "Outdoor Public Mixed Bath" twice in the summer. This act comes over and over traditionary that changed to beauty customs in the type of bathing in mineral water in the later times. 4. The Era of Chosun There are two documentary records on beauty customs. FGue hap chong seo_ written by Madam Lee traces the origin of particular beauty customs and the 'Almanac_ tells us about annual beauty customs practiced in those days. Different from the Koryo period, in Chosun dynasty, where Confucianism was dominating the lives of the people, women's life had been oriented towards house keeping thus narrowing the scope of women's activities. Naturally women became more conscious on decorating themselves. Separating the radius of everyday activities of men and women, women gained more opportunity and the time to devote themselves to decorate and beautify their appearances. Ornaments on mirrors, combs and hair accessories became most extravagant ever. Meanwhile, the role of women's quarters diversified. They were used as living rooms, bedrooms, toilets, dinning rooms or even as bathrooms. Most of the ladies stayed in the women's quarters day and night and enjoyed partial bath in five or six washbowls from early in the morning and spent about two hours to finish their morning make up. Efforts on beautifying ones appearance brought development in fancy ornaments, fine beauty products as well as on beauty methods which demand time. This period of development in basic make-up as well as make up colorings were the result of the introduction of advent women who sell their beauty. The decorated and somewhat artificial beauty of whom we call Ki-nyosl introduced make up coloring to the common ladies of simple and refined make-up. They brought in eye shadows and Yeonji(rouge) as well as drawing eyebrows according to their facial shape. Permission to make-up like queen on wedding day was the result of the particular class system of Chosun Dynasty. Make-up for such special occasion brought about lavishness in womens way of beautification and naturally, the coloring method by Ki-nyos was spreaded to the ordinary women. The development of partial bath brought in a culture for using personal washingbowl, bathing and washing etiquettes were established at this time. Bath wares such as mats and bath towels became part of everyday life of the normal people. In addition, resulting from the development in partial bath, a variety of soaps were used for different purposes. Liquid soap for washing hair, powder soap for facial wash and so on. It is interesting to take a glance at the change in mirror. Not only the size grew from the small mirror to full length mirror, portable mirrors changed into fixed mirrors. A small chest with drawers that supported the small mirrors became a dressing table so that they could not only keep their beauty care products but also used as a decoration or even for display. During this age, the use of perfumery were widely spread. Aroma bathing and applying dried herbs had therapeutic effects as well. As the annual customs became stabilized, those beauty customs in harmony with nature came to in practice every year and handed down as a tradition. Those beauty customs stated in the Almanac is a process of assimilating one's being with nature. They may be purely a pursuit towards beauty, a protection, a therapy or even just a form of recreation. We can see the beauty concept of women in those days that anything in harmony with nature is beautiful. Different from the previous era, in the Chosun dynasty, there were many prohibited beauty taboo customs which were resulted from incantatory elements to protect against anything harmful. By the end of Chosun period, imported cosmetics were used by high class women and the kisaengs and due to the mass production of Park's powder(powder by maid park's), cream and toner by professional cosmetic companies, beauty advertisements appeared in newspapers. These extensive beauty advertisements not only promoted cosmetic sales but also taught women about the appropriate method of cosmetic use. Public baths at the end of Chosun period were divided into men's and women's. However those baths were not popular to the public even with not much facilities for private bath because people felt uneasy about showing their figure to others. Due to the introduction of public baths, the culture of using different washbowls and towels for different parts of body disappeared and a new form of bath custom had taken place.