JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE FROM EASTPORT ME TO SAN FRANCISCO IN THE HERM' BRIG AMELIA. CAPTAIN - JOSEPH CLARK MATE - CHARLES FOLSOM 2d - J.D. NORWOOD [end of page df001_01.gif] Passengers for California in Brig Amelia, Joseph Clark Master, which sailed from this port yesterday. Dead- Isaac Reed, Perry, Shipbuilder Dead- Patrick Orr, do, do Dead- Mason R Tuttle, do, Trader -- Boy Little Dead- Daniel Hibbard, do, Lumberman Dead- Josiah Loring, do, Shipbuilder Dead- James Moore, Eastport, Blacksmith Dead- Alex. Boyde, Jr., do, Joiner -- James Boy Lizzie[?] Dead- Frederick Paine, do, Cabinet Maker Dead- D C Powers, do, -- D.C. Tobias Mealy, St. George, N. B., Lumberman Samuel? Tobias Johnson, do Dead George Reynolds, Dennysville, Boatman Officers and Crew: Dead Joseph Clark, Eastport, Master Dead Chas Golsom, do, Mate Steve N.E. Sampson forum[?] Dead Josh D Norwood do, 2d Mate --> Wadson[?] Med[?] Geo Osborn } Dead Joseph Wormell } Seamen, of Dead John F Carpenter, } Eastport Dead John G Micbener, } Dead Simeon Higgins, do, Cook Dead Frank Mabee, do, Steward. Osborne [end of page df001_02.gif] This page a separate voyage C M D R O D R C 1192 7 T 28 NW by N 137 12§.28'S 12§.26'S 93§.15'W W F 29 NW by N 132 10§.40' " 10§.36' " 94§.32' " 94§.50' " S 30 NW 1/2 N 144 8§.45' " 96§.22' " S 31 NW by N 167 6§.24' " 6§.26' " 97§.55' " 98§.12' " M Ap 1 NW 1/2 N 86 5§.15' " 5§.20' " 99§.07' " T 2 N by W 65 4§.17' " 99§.19' " W 3 NW 1/4 W 168 2§.07' " 2§.15' " 101§.05' " 101§.30' " T 4 NW 1/4 N 104 50' " 55' " 102§.40' " 102§.36' " F 5 NW by N 57 09' " 12' " 103§.08' " S 6 N 34 22'N 103§.10' " Crossed the Equator S 7 WSW 70 09'S 104§.23' " 104§.32' " Crossed the Equator M 8 NW 1/2 N 104 1§.25'N 1§.33'N 105§.35' " 105§.42' " T 9 NNW 1/4 W 101 3§.18' " 3§.14' " 107§.07' " W 10 NW 55 3§.54' " 4§.01' " 107§.49' " T 11 NW 1/2 N 48 4§.40' " 4§.38' " 108§.20' " F 12 NW by N 78 5§.38' " 5§.43' " 109§.04' " 108§.08' " S 13 N by W 35 6§.13' " 6§.07' " 109§.09' " S 14 NW 72 6§.52' " 6§.57' " 109§.00' " M 15 NW 154 8§.40' " 8§.48' " 110§.50' " T 16 NW by W 181 10§.43' " 10§.56' " 113§.00' " Passed the Sun W 17 NW by W 196 12§.40' " 12§.44' " 115§.46' " 115§.58' " T 18 NW by W 151 14§.14' " 14§.08' " 117§.55' " F 19 NW 1/2 W 171 15§.55' " 15§.57' " 120§.11' " S 20 NW 174 18§.00' " 122§.19' " S 21 NW 150 19§.46' " 124§.11' " M 22 NW 173 21§.43' " 21§.48' " 126§.21' " 126§.42' " T 23 NW by N 147 23§.47' " 23§.50' " 128§.24' " Crossed Tropic of Cancer W 24 NW by N 125 25§.36' " 25§.35' " 129§.40' " T 25 NNW1/2 W 125 27§.25' " 27§.25' " 130§.45' " F 26 NW 116 28§.40' " 28§.47' " 132§.17' " S 27 NNW 63 29§.51' " 29§.43' " 132§.57' " S 28 NW 1/4 W 65 30§.25' " 30§.23' " 133§.10' " 133§.50' " M 29 NW 69 31§.14' " 31§.12' " 134§.46' " T 30 N by W 40 31§.50' " 134§.53' " WMay 1 N by E1/2 E 126 33§.45' " 33§.51' " 134§.18' " 134§.09' " [end of page df001_03.gif] C M D R O D R C T 2 NNE 1/2 E 144 35§.58'N 132§.47'W F 3 NE by E 160 38§.11' " 130§.56' " S 4 ENE 1/2 E 130 38§.48' " 128§.18' " S 5 E 1/2 N 86 38§.55' " 126§.24' [end of page df001_04.gif] ABSTRACT Dates Latitude by Longitude by 1849 Course Miles D R Obser D R Chron Remarks Novr M 12 SSW 25 44§.26'N N 67§.10W W T 13 S by E 1/2 E 141 42§.12' " 66§.12' " W 14 SSE 3/4 E 148 40§.05' " 40§.21' " 65§.31' " T 15 SE 50 39§.28' " 39§.37' " 64§.48' " F 16 SE by E 192 37§.41' " 37§.20' " 61§.26'' " 61§.16 " S 17 SE by E 168 35§.46' " 35§.40' " 58§.23' " 58§.15 " S 18 SE by E 1/4 E 108 33§.56' " 33§.50' " 57§.33' " M 19 NE by E 51 34§.16' " 56§.43' " T 20 ENE 60 34§.59' " 34§.25' " 55§.35' " 55§.34 " W 21 NNE 18 34§.42' " 34§.40' " 55§.27' " T 22 E 3/4 N 112 34§.56' " 34§.56' " 53§.11' " F 23 E by S 84 34§.39' " 34§.46' " 51§.27' " S 24 SE by E 60 34§.06' " 34§.04' " 50§.26' " S 25 SE 39 33§.38' " 49§.52' " M 26 SE 190 31§24' " 31§.19' " 47§.37' " T 27 SE 1/2 S 156 29§.20' " 29§.13' " 45§.27' " 46§.11 " W 28 S by E 3/4 E 129 27§19' " 27§.13' " 45§.27' " 45§.20 " T 29 S by E 1/4 E 70 26§.05' " 26§.04' " 45§.01' " 45§.04 " F 30 NE by N 90 27§.18' " 44§.14' " SDec1 NNE 3/4 /E 103 28§44' " 28§.50' " 43§.09' " 43§.12 " S 2 N by E 1/4 E 105 30§.27' " 30§.31' " 42§.43' " 42§.55 " M 3 NE 50 31§.09' " 31§.06' " 42§.25' " 42§.23 " T 4 SE 1/4 E 75 30§13' " 30§.11' " 41§.21' " 44§.25 " W 5 SSE 1/2 E 48 29§.27' " 29§.28' " 41§.00' " 41§.05 " T 6 NE by E 1/2 E 47 29§.47' " 29§.51' " 40§.23' " 40§.19 " F 7 E 1/2 N 40 29§.54' " 29§.55' " 39§.40' " 39§.34 " S 8 E 1/2 N 76 30§.03' " 30§.03' " 38§.03' " 38§.07 " S 9 SE by E 1/2 E 115 29§.06' " 29§.07' " 36§.05' " 36§.10 " M 10 SE 3/4 E 110 27§.58' " 28§.01' " 34§.22' " 34§.29 " T 11 SE 3/4 S 75 27§.06' " 27§.01' " 33§.48' " 33§.57 " W 12 S by E 3/4 E 102 25§.31' " 25§.25' " 32§.55' " 32§.55 " 2837 [end of page df001_05.gif] C M D R O D R C 2837 T 13 E 1/2 N 100 25§.43'N 25§.35'N 31§.12'W 31§.04'W F 14 E 119 25§.53' " 25§.35' " 29§.17' " 29§.05' " S 15 SW by W 120 24§.31' " 24§.33' " 31§.21' " 31§.01' " S 16 S 1/2 E 145 22§.10' " 22§.08' " 30§.46' " 30§.49' " Crossed Tropic of Cancer Long30§50[?] M 17 S by E 138 19§.58' " 19§.53' " 30§.22' " 30§.23' " T 18 S 1/2 E 80 18§.38' " 18§.34' " 30§.14' " W 19 S 1/2 E 119 16§.37' " 16§.36' " 30§.02' "T 20 S 1/2 E 157 14§.04' " 14§.00' " 29§.49' " 29§.41' "F 21 S 3/4 E 168 11§.13' " 11§.15' " 29§.24' " 29§.12' "S 22 S 3/4 E 171 8§.24'" 28§.47' "S 23 S 1/2 E 144 6§.11' " 28§.35' "M 24 S 1/4 W 67 5§.05' " 28§.55' " T 25 SbyE1/2E 91 4§.07' " 3§.35' " 28§.20' " 28§.07' " W 26 SW 1/4 W 76 2§.47' " 2§.48' " 28§.58' " 29§.03' "T 27 SSE 15 2§.35' " 2§.34' " 28§.56' " 28§.57' "F 28 SW 1/2 W 109 1§.25' " 1§.26' " 30§.12' " 30§.21' "S 29 SW by W 77 .42' " .44' " 31§.08' " 31§.25' "S 30 SSW1/2W 90 .33' S .34' S 32§.04' " 32§.08' " Crossed the Equator Long 31§.50'M 31 SSW 117 2§.18' " 2§.22' " 32§.57' " 32§.52' " 1850 T Jan 1NE 3/4 E 56 1§.51' " 1§.49' " 32§.06' " 32§.10' " W 2 SW 1/2 S 117 3§.41' " 3§.19' " 33§.22' " 33§.27' "T 3 SSW1/4W 106 4§.58' " 4§.55' " 34§.07' " 34§.08' "F 4 SSW 82 6§.12' " 6§.17' " 34§.38' " 34§.39' "S 5 SE 3/4 S 29 6§.36' " 6§.40' " 34§.18' " 34§.22' "S 6 SbyW1/2W 32 7§.01' " 7§.10' " 34§.30' "M 7 S by W 93 8§.41' " 8§.41' " 34§.48' " T 8 S 118 10§.38' " 10§.38' " 34§.49' " W 9 S 1/2 W 131 12§46' " 12§.47' " 35§.01' " 35§.03' "T 10 SbyW3/4W 140 14§.51' " 14§.59' " 35§.45' " 35§.52' "F 11 SbyW3/4W 124 16§. 50' " 16§.56' " 36§.36' " S 12 SbyW3/4W 151 19§.18' " 19§.18' " 37§.29' "S 13 SbyW1/2W 132 21§.26' " 21§.24' " 38§.10' " 38§.09' "M 14 S 3/4 W 172 24§.41' " 24§.14' " 38§.27' " 38§.36' " Crossed Tropic of Capricorn Long 38§ T 15 SSW 119 25§.56' " 26§.04' " 39§.21' " W 16 SbyW1/4W 86 27§.25' " 27§.26' " 39§.47' " 39§.41' " 6628 [end of page df001_06.gif] C M D R O D R C 6628 T 17 SbyW1/2W 90 28§.53' S 29§.05' S 40§.10' W W F 18 SW 3/4 W 70 29§.45' " 29§.46' " 41§.09' " 41§.15' " S 19 SSW 3/4W 134 31§.38' " 31§.45' " 42§.39' " 42§.31' " S 20 SW 3/4S 159 33§.45' " 33§.46' " 44§.32' " 44§.29' " M 21 SW 1/2S 145 35§.16' " 33§.15' " 45§.57' " T 22 SW by S 155 37§.24' " 47§.44' " W 23 S 1/2 W 74 38§.37' " 47§.52' " T 24 SW 1/4 S 26 38§.16' " 38§.12' " 48§.44' " F 25 SW 3/4 W 115 39§.22' " 50§.11' " S 26 W by N 52 39§.07' " 39§.14' " 51§.00' " 49§.52' " S 27 SW 3/4 W 71 39§.56' " 40§.02' " 51§.09' " 51§.11' " M 28 W by S 57 40§.16' " 40§.10' " 52§.37' " 52§.35' " T 29 SW 1/4 S 27 40§.37' " 40§.30' " 53§.08' " 53§.01' " W 30 SW by S 80 41§.45' " 54§.07' " T 31 SE by E 60 42§.18' " 42§.33' " 53§.00' " F Feb1SSW3/4W 55 43§.28' " 43§.19' " 53§.32' " 53§.40' " S 2 SW 1/2 W 125 44§.36' " 44§.39' " 55§.38' " 55§.54' " S 3 SWbyW1/4W 63 45§.14' " 45§.12' " 57§.16' " 57§.09' " M 4 SW 3/4 W 168 46§.55' " 46§.50' " 60§.41' " 60§.26' " T 5 SSW 91 48§.12' " 48§.14' " 61§.24' " 61§.21' " W 6 SW by S 148 50§.19' " 50§.17' " 63§.26' " T 7 SW 61 51§.02' " 50§.59' " 64§.12' " 64§.25' " F 8 SW by S 126 52§.40' " 52§.45' " 66§.15' " 66§.16' " S 9 S by E 98 54§.23' " 54§.21' " 65§.52' " 65§.52' " S 10 At 5 AM entered Straits Le Maire M 11 At 2 PM came to anchor in Good Success Bay T 12 At 6 AM got underweigh and proceeded on our voyage W 13 S 30 55§.35' " T 14 Passed Cape horn 3/4 mile distant F 15 At 1 1/2 PM came to anchor on the eastern side of the island S 16 At 5 AM got underweigh S 17 At 7 PM Cape Horn bore NE distant 6 miles M 18 At 11 AM saw the Ramires Is bearing SSW distant 12 miles T 19 At 1 PM passed within 2 miles of Cape Spencer, at 3 PM came to in a cove to leeward of Hermit I W 20 W 85 55§.45' " 70§.09' " 8963 [end of page df001_07.gif] C M D R O D R C 8963 T 21 NW by W 120 54§.39' S S 72§.51' W W F 22 WSW 18 54§.47' " 73§.18' "S 23 SW by W 65 55§.23' " 74§.52' "S 24 W by S 84 55§.40' " 77§.05' " M 25 NE 1/2 E 47 55§.26' " 75§.56' "T 26 NE 1/4 N 62 54§.29' " 54§.23' " 74§.33' " 74§.42' "W 27 At 12 M came to in a bay at the eastern side of Landfall Is T 28 At 9 AM got underweigh FMar 1 At 12 M Landfall Is bore east distant 15 milesS 2 At 12 M Cape Pillar bore NE by N distant 12 milesS 3 NW 89 51§.38' " 51§.40' " 76§.25' "M 4 NWbyW1/4W 71 50§.35' " 76§.50' "T 5 N by W 59 49§.38' " 77§.08' "W 6 N by W 96 48§.04' " 77§.38' " T 7 N by W1/2W 125 46§.05' " 78§.31' " F 8 NNW 115 44§.49' " 79§.04' "S 9 NNW 144 42§.06' " 80§.13' "S 10 NNW 162 39§.27' " 80§.54' "M 11 N 1/2 W 170 36§.35' " 36§.40' " 81§.13' " 80§.45' "T 12 NNE 156 34§.11' " 34§.11' " 79§.35' "W 13 At 8 AM The Island of Massafuero bore WSW distant 5 miles T 14 At 8 AM Saw the Is of Juan Fernandez bearing E by N F 15 At 10 PM Came to in Cumberland BayS 16 All this day engaged in getting wood water and fruitS 17 NNW 113 31§.57' " 79§.48' " At 12 1/2 PM got underweighM 18 NW by N 134 30§.09' " 30§.06' " 81§.15' "T 19 NW by N 153 28§.00' " 27§.59' " 82§.52' "W 20 NW by N 177 25§.24' " 25§.32' " 84§.41' " T 21 NbyW1/4W 155 23§.07' " 23§.02' " 85§.52' " 85§.17' " Crossed Tropic of Capricorn F 22 NNW1/2W 149 20§.51' " 86§.32' "S 23 NW by N 78 19§.40' " 19§.46' " 87§.18' "S 24 NW 48 19§.12' " 87§.53' "M 25 NW by N 73 18§.12' " 18§.12' " 88§36' " 88§.40' "T 26 NW 151 16§.20' " 16§.25' " 90§.31' "W 27 NW by N 150 14§.25' " 14§.20' " 91§.57' " 11927 [end of page df001_08.gif] TRACK OF BRIG AMELIA AROUND CAPE HORN IN 1850 [map] [end of page df001_08p.jpg] Monday Nov 12h 1849 {1849/11/12} This morning at 9 O'Clock wind from the North, the lines that held the good Brig Amelia at her wharf in Eastport Maine were cast off, with the friendly wishes of numbers for a safe and speedy voyage to the distant land for which she is bound. The feelings of most persons on board the Brig so far as could be analyzed were regret at parting from relatives and friends, with a determination to return to them as soon as fortune had smiled upon them to a moderate extent. Our great gun to which the mate has given the euphonious name of Barker, spoke loudly upon the occasion, which together with numerous discharges from small arms in the possession of the passengers caused it to appear as a voyage of pleasure, which we sincerely hope and trust it may prove, as we sailed past Lubec the inhabitants gave us three cheers which were more promptly returned and as we neared sail rock, we discharged our great gun with three times three, our last salute to our native shore. The keeper of the lights at West Quoddy head having recognized us, rang his fog bell and waved his cap, with no doubt an inward prayer for our success. The last land we gazed upon were the seal islands, and we are now in the middle of the afternoon broad off to sea and out of sight of land, with a fair wind, plenty of it, and a prospect of a continuation of the same. Tuesday 13h {1849/11/13} The wind continued fair during the night and at four in the morning watch the mainsail was taken in, and at eight A M the crew are engaged in rigging Starboard Studding sails. Most of the passengers have done justice to the bountiful breakfast set before them by the Steward, few of them having been greatly troubled by that depressing sickness to which young voyagers are subject it was rather amusing to witness the salty manners of some two or three, who for the first hours out were not visited by nausea, and who imagined they should escape scot free, their jokes upon their less fortunate shipmates, were broad and numerous, but alas! Neptune exhibited to them his power, and in a short time they paid such bountiful tribute that the Ocean God must have been perfectly satisfied with their submission. Soon after breakfast we were visited by a little yellow bird, which alighted in the rigging, having undoubtedly wandered from its course and become fatigued. I was told that an hour or two previous we had a visit from one of blueish plumage, but as it remained by us but a short time I did not see it. during the day the little wanderers were quite numerous, and one had become so tame that it settled upon the cap of a passenger, from whence it suffered itself to be taken by hand, some of the passengers have been engaged for the last hour or two in feeding the strangers, and with one exception they have now taken their departure. [end of page df001_09.gif] Wednesday 14h {1849/11/14} The wind is still favorable and we are bowling merrily along, a vessel is nearing us and we have discovered her to be a Barque steering to the North and East, there is also a vessel say eight or ten miles ahead of us, which is to all appearance a Brig and steering about two points southerly of our course, we are now by dead reckoning in the edge of the Gulf Stream, the wind which heretofore has been raw and disagreeable, is becoming quite mild, numbers of porpoise are playing about the Brig, and the passengers are foward witnessing their gambols and speculating upon the inhabitants of the vasty deep, this day the first observation was taken and we found ourselves in Latitude 39§ 37' North, Longitude 64§ 48' West. #s039 37N#e $s064 48W$e Thursday 15h {1849/11/15} Upon visiting the deck this morning I found the vessel resting like a log upon the water, the wind having died completely away, in the afternoon a light breeze spiting[?] up from the W and soon changed to the NW, at 3 PM. took mainsail off her, and at 4 PM took in top gallant sail, we are now going at the rate of eight or nine knots an hour with the wind N. Friday 16h {1849/11/16} Arose this morning with every bone in my body sore from having had such an uneasy birth during the night, a very ugly sea has been running, and the Brig has been bobbing about in such a manner that one could not lie still an instant. One sea catching her under the quarter and another forward, causing her to trip, we have foresail, foretopsail, and mainsail again upon her, and a strong breeze from NNE, all persons prognosticate a quick passage as our Captain has the reputation of a lucky one, and thus far it is established, Lat. today by observation 37§ 20' N. Long by Chronometer 61§ 16' W #s037 20N#e $s061 16W$e. At 2 PM added main staysail, and she is plunging through the water and frightening the flying fish in her course, to the great delight of the fresh water gentlemen on board. Saturday 17h {1849/11/17} Wind moderate, all sail set that would draw, Brig running SSE & SE by S, a vessel discovered from aloft, supposed to be a Brig and steering NW. Lat by obs 35§ 40' N. Long 58§ 15' W by Chro #s035 40N#e $s058 15W$e. wind appears to be heading us off our course. Sunday 18h {1849/11/18} Wind E by S, weather pleasant, at 10 AM took in Flying jib, Gaff Topsail, and Top gallant sails. Lat by obs 33§ 50' N. at four PM called all hands reef topsails and tack ship, vessel heading on this tack NE by E, at 8 PM reefed Mainsail, an ugly sea running attended with rain squalls, rather discouraging, having been so fortunate as regards wind, concluded we should have a quick run to the Cape. [end of page df001_10.gif] Monday 19h {1849/11/19} Wind S by E, rain squalls during the day. Brig making ENE course, sea running heavy, on the whole a very disagreeable day, Most passengers stomachs in an insubordinate state, at 6 PM set Main jib, at 7 carried it away by a heavy roll of Brig to windward, copious showers of rain during the night. Tuesday 20h {1849/11/20} Wind SSE vessel making ENE course, heavy sea running but wind light, Lat by obs 34§ 25' N. Long 55§ 34' W by Chro #s034 25N#e $s055 34W$e. several of the passengers sick, and many calls upon the medicine chest. Wednesday 21st {1849/11/21} A perfect calm during the first part of the day, latter part of the day light wind from the SW, vessel steering ESE course. Lat by obs 34§ 40' N. Long by dead reckoning 55§ 36' W #s034 40N#e $s055 36W$e. a small whale playing about the Brig the only thing of interest for some days past, wind in the evening more southerly, attended with rain squalls, passengers low spirited, some of them longing for mince and custard pies. at 5 PM bent jib and set it, at 8 PM handed fore topgallant sail and stowed flying jib, and tacked ship, vessel heading S by W, at 12 tacked again, vessel on this tack steering ESE, at 1 Oclock by a roll of the vessel split main jib which had just been repaired and set. Thursday 22d {1849/11/22} Moderate wind from S, vessel steering ESE, Lat by obs 34§ 56' N, this morning rebent main jib, at 1 PM wind hauled to SSW and blew hard, at 7 PM two reefed topsail and mainsail, during the night it blew hard and rained in torrents. Friday 23d {1849/11/23} Wind light, at 6 AM turned out the reefs and set topmast studding sails, Lat by obs 34§ 46' N. Long 51§ 27' W Chro #s034 46N#e $s051 27W$e. Late in the afternoon a passenger aloft discovered a sail dead to leeward, distant say twelve miles, steering same course with ourselves, wind moderate during the night. Saturday 24h {1849/11/24} Light wind from ENE, Brig steering SE by S, the vessel discovered yesterday proves to be a Barque steering SE, distant at the commencement of the first dog watch about six miles and appears to be going a trifle faster than our Brig, we are now engaged setting topmast studding sails in the starboard side, Lat by obs 34§ 04' N. Long by DR 50§ 26' W #s034 04N#e $s050 26W$e. Sunday 25h {1849/11/25} Light wind from SE, vessel making SE course, the Barque discovered yesterday appears to be steering to the Northward and is almost out of sight, a vessel discovered to windward supposed to be twelve miles off, she is a fore and aft schooner and steering our course. [end of page df001_11.gif] Sunday continued Lat today by obs 33§ 38' N, Long by DR 49§ 52' W #s033 38N#e $s049 52W$e. wind in the afternoon increased with heavy showers of rain, furled topgallant sail, at 6 PM split jib, heavy sea running and wind increaseing. at 7 leech rope of main sail parted and sail much torn, it blew heavy during the night. Monday 26h {1849/11/26} This morning heavy wind from NNE, and much sea running, vessel under foresail, fore topsail, main, and fore topmast staysails, and spencer, and (two) reefed mainsail, the schooner seen yesterday is almost out of sight to leeward, having kept off more than ourselves, passengers this morning are shooting at grampus along side, at 8 AM we neared the vessel supposed to be the schooner spoken of, and found it to be a full rigged Brig, at 12 M spoke her, and ascertained she was from Boston and bound to San Francisco, found her longitude more westerly than our chronometer longitude. our latitude today was 31§ 19' N by obs. Long by Chro 47§ 37' W DR #s031 19N#e $s047 37W$e. Brig whose name we did not ascertain appears to be quite light and has deck load of lumber, she is standing more to the eastward than ourselves but does not appear to sail better than our Brig, as after our hauling up foresail and setting topsail on the cap, she could not come up with us for some time, although when we shortened sail she was not more than two cables length astern with foretopmast staysail, foresail and single reefed topsail, upon learning where she was bound, we gave her three cheers which were returned by the crew and some half dozen passengers, we then up topsail and parted company. Tuesday 27h {1849/11/27} Strong breeze from E by N vessel making SSE course, Lat by obs 29§ 13' N Long by Chro 46§ 11' W #s029 13N#e $s046 11W$e, wind moderate during the night. Wednesday 28h {1849/11/28} Moderate breeze from E, vessel steering S by E 3/4 E, repaired the main sail and set it at 1 PM, Lat by obs 27§ 13' N. Long by Chro 45§ 20' W #s027 13N#e $s045 20W$e, at 7 PM tacked ship and stood to the North, at 9 PM tacked and stood South. Thursday 29h {1849/11/29} Wind E by S and moderate, saw a ship standing to the South and West, at 11 AM tacked ship and stood to the North. Lat 26§ 4' N by Obs. Long by chro 45§ 4' W #s024 06N#e $s045 04W$e, at 6 PM tacked ship and stood South, at 7 tacked ship and stood North, temperature to day at 12 M in the shade 78§ Farenheit. Friday 30h {1849/11/30} Wind ESE, vessel steering NE by N course, Lat by DR 27§ 18', Long by DR 44§ 14' W #s027 18N#e $s044 14W$e, latter part of the day light wind and rain squalls, nothing of interest. [end of page df001_12.gif] Saturday Dec 1st {1849/12/01} Light wind from ESE, vessel steering NNE 3/4 E course, Lat by Obs 28§ 50' N. Long by Chro 43§ 12' W #s028 50N#e $s043 12W$e weather pleasant. Sunday Dec 2d {1849/12/02} Light wind from E by S, vessel steering NE 1/2 N, a passenger from aloft discovered a ship steering our course, at 12 M exchanged signals with the ship, supposed her to be the Hannibal of Boston Lat by Obs 30§ 31' N. Long by Chro 42§ 55' W #s030 31N#e $s042 55W$e Monday Dec 3d {1849/12/03} Moderate wind from SE, brig standing NE course. Lat by Obs 31.06 N Long by Chro 42§ 23' W #s031 06N#e $s042 23W$e, in the afternoon wind changed to NE by E, vessel steering SE. Tuesday 4h {1849/12/04} Wind NE by E, vessel steering SE course, at six bells the ship above mentioned being quite near, hove to until we came up, she proved to be the Sartelle 18 days out from N York, and bound to San Francisco, had experienced some very heavy weather and lost suit of sails, we agreed in longitude, she appears to be deeply laden but supposed to have very few passengers as few persons were seen, upon learning that she was bound to San Francisco we gave her three cheers which were returned, one of the persons on board ship was extremely anxious to know if we had any of the feminine gender on board, and upon our answering that we had nothing but a pig, stated they were in the same situation, suppose from our own feelings that he must be quite disconsolate as we have been lamenting our lot for some time past. Lat by Obs 30§ 11' N. Long by Chro 41§ 25' W #s030 11N#e $s041 25W$e. At 6 PM they fired a big gun on board the ship and gave us three cheers, which was returned by a discharge from Barker and three cheers from all hands, after which some of the passengers joined in a dance at a tune from the violin and octave flute and the evening passed pleasantly. Wednesday 5h {1849/12/05} Light wind from SE, vessel making South course, Lat 29§ 28' N by Obs. Long by Chro 41§ 05' W #s029 28N#e $s041 05W$e, nothing of interest. Thursday 6h {1849/12/06} Wind hauled to the southward, a moderate breeze, vessel steering an East course, the Sartelle in sight from aloft well to windward of us, to day killed a dolphin with the grains but lost him trying to get him on board. Lat by Obs 29§ 51' N. Long by Chro 40§ 19' W #s029 51N#e $s040 19W$e. Thermometer at 12 M 78§ F. Friday 7h {1849/12/07} Light wind in the morning from south, vessel steering ESE course, in the afternoon a calm, vast numbers of porpoise and dolphin playing along side, great excitement among the passengers, fishing lines are thrown out, and while I am writing the passengers [end of page df001_13.gif] are catching dolphin in any quantity. Towards evening a breeze sprang up and we are moving along nicely. Lat by Obs 29§ 55' N. Long by Chro 39§ 34' W #s029 55N#e $s039 34W$e. furled royal, gaff topsail, flying jib, and main topmast staysail, saw a vessel well to windward standing North. Saturday 8h {1849/12/08} A strong breeze from South, vessel steering ESE course. Lat by Obs 30§ 03' N. Long by Chro 38§ 07' W #s030 03N#e $s038 07W$e. heavy showers during the day. Sunday 9h Dec {1849/12/09} This morning fresh breeze from SW, vessel steering SE by S course. saw two sail standing North, and one running our course. Lat by Obs 29§ 07' N. Long by Chro 36§ 10' W #s029 07N#e $s036 10W$e. Monday 10h {1849/12/10} Wind SW 1/2 W, vessel standing SSE course, saw a ship and one other sail running SE, also two sail standing NE. about 5 PM a very heavy cloud arose in the NE promising a severe storm, the cloud spread rapidly and it soon became pitchy dark, whilst we were anxiously awaiting the bursting of the storm, a light was discovered close aboard of us. a lantern was immediately obtained and light shown, which signal was answered in like manner by a vessel within half cables length of us. The cloud passed off without producing much, and our nocturnal visitor passed off with it. Lat by Obs 28§ 01' N. Long by Chro 34§ 29'W #s028 01N#e $s034 29W$e. Tuesday 11h {1849/12/11} Strong breeze from SW by W, and a very cloudy sky, heavy swell from Northwest, brig steering SSE course first part of the day, latter part of the day wind changed to NE, vessel steering S course light squalls and rain. Lat by Obs 27§ 01' N. Long by Chro 33§ 37' W #s027 01N#e $s033 37W$e. Wednesday 12h {1849/12/12} First part of the day fresh breeze from ENE, vessel steering S course, weather pleasant, latter part of the day dead calm, passengers caught several dolphin, two sail seen running North and one standing our course. Lat by Obs 25§ 25' N. Long by Chro 32§ 55' W #s025 25N#e $s032 55W$e. Thursday 13h {1849/12/13} In the morning light and variable winds mostly from the East middle and latter part of the day fresh breeze from South, vessel in the morning making S by E course and in the latter part of the day E by S course. Lat by Obs 25§ 35' N. Long by Chro 31§ 04' W #s025 35N#e $s031 04W$e. Friday 14h {1849/12/14} Continuation of fresh south wind, vessel steering E by S course, at 8 AM tacked and stood SW, many vessels in sight some running [end of page df001_14.gif] North and one or two standing our course. Lat by Obs 25§ 35' N. Long by Chro 29§ 05' W #s025 35N#e $s029 05W$e weather pleasant. Saturday 15h {1849/12/15} Light SSE wind and pleasant weather, vessel steering SW, at five oclock wind changed to E by S, tacked ship and stood S by W. four sail in sight, three standing SW and one running west, one of the vessels standing SW a Barque, has been steering in a singular manner, a portion of the time standing on a wind, and again running off before it, we concluded they were having a jollification on board, Lat by Obs 24§ 33' N. Long 31§ 01' W #s024 33N#e $s031 01W$e Sunday 16h {1849/12/16} Fresh and pleasant breezes from E by S, vessel steering South. passengers begin to feel as though they might succeed in getting to San Francisco by midsummer, Lat by Obs 22§ 08' N, Long by Chro 30§ 49' W #s022 08N#e $s030 49W$e. a sail seen from aloft, say 10 miles distant on our lee bow, could not ascertain the course she was steering, a very good chicken soup to day at dinner, consider I am bound to record it as it is first of the kind Monday 17h {1849/12/17} Light wind from E. brig making south course. saw a brig steering W. Lat by Obs 19§ 53' N Long by chro 30§ 23' W #s019 53N#e $s030 23W$e Tuesday 18h {1849/12/18} Light wind from East, weather pleasant, vessel making south course. Lat by Obs 18§ 34' N Long by DR 30§ 14' W #s018 34N#e $s030 14W$e. latter part of the day the air has been quite smoky. Wednesday 19h {1849/12/19} Wind E by N vessel making south course Lat by Obs 16§ 36' N. Long by DR 30§ 02' #s016 36N#e $s030 02W$e. the breeze is quite strong and the brig is going along rapidly, the atmosphere has been very dense since yesterday morning, this morning we were surprised on looking aloft to discover our topmast staysails covered with a substance resembling a paint, called spanish brown, during the day it continued to spread over the other light sails, and the rigging, and in fact every thing that presented a broomy surface. the water a short distance from the brig had the appearance of having been colored, the air too is very impure, and very oppressive, most persons on board complaining of sore throat and eyes, I have endeavored to account for this phenomenon by supposing that they have been visited on the coast of Africa (from which we are not far distant) by a simoom, and as the wind is blowing strong off the coast, the light particles have reached and in fact extend far to leeward of us, the heavy particles having fallen into the see between us and the main land, the red powder which can be scraped from the sails, and of which I have preserved a small quantity, has the taste of copper, and is almost wholly free of grit. the sun has endeavored to shine, but was unable to [end of page df001_15.gif] present a more luminous or brilliant appearance than an old tin pan, in fact the general appearance of things is quite singular, or in Yankee parlance very queer. Thursday 20h {1849/12/20} Strong breeze from ENE vessel making south course Lat by Obs 14§ 60' N Long by Chro 29§ 41' W #s014 60N#e $s029 41W$e Friday 21st {1849/12/21} Fresh breezes and pleasant weather. wind ENE vessel steering south, Lat by Obs 11§ 15' N. Long by Chro 29§ 12' W #s011 15N#e $s029 12W$e. Saturday 22d {1849/12/22} Strong breeze from ENE. Weather cloudy, indicating rain. vessel steering south. Lat. by DR 8§ 24' N. Long by DR 28§ 47' W #s008 24N#e $s028 47W$e. Christmas approaches and we hope that the Brig will make such headway as to permit us to eat our Christmas dinner upon the equator. Sunday 23d {1849/12/23} Fresh breeze and cloudy. Wind ENE vessel making south course Lat DR 6§ 11' N. Long DR 28§ 33' W #s006 11N#e $s028 33W$e. Monday 24h {1849/12/24} Light wind from SE in the morning, vessel making SSW course. Middle of the day wind east, vessel steering S by E Lat by DR 5§ 05' N. Long by DR 28§ 35'W #s005 05N#e $s028 35W$e. Tuesday 25h {1849/12/25} Light wind in the morning from east, vessel steering South, during the day wind hauled first to the NNW, and again to SE. vessel steering SE and SSW. saw a ship standing to the southward, and a bank standing to the Northward, Lat by Obs 3§ 35' N. Long by Obs 28§ 07' W #s003 35N#e $s028 07W$e. wished our friends at home a Merry Christmas, and longed to be with them. Wednesday 26 {1849/12/26} Light wind from SSE vessel steering SW. saw a vessel about five miles distant, say two points off the lee bow. Lat 2§ 48' N. Long by Obs 29§ 03' #s002 48N#e $s029 03W$e Nothing of interest. Thursday 27h {1849/12/27} Light winds from SSE vessel steering SW by W. at 8 AM tacked ship and stood E by S, wind South, saw a schooner standing to the southward, at 7 PM tacked ship and stood SW by W wind SSE Lat 2§ 34' N by Obs Long by Chro 28§ 57' W #s002 34N#e $s028 57W$e. [end of page df001_16.gif] Friday 28h {1849/12/28} Light wind from SSE, vessel steering SW. saw a Bark standing to the Northward, Lat by Obs 1§ 26' N. Long by Chro 30§ 21'W #s001 26N#e $s030 21W$e Saturday 29 {1849/12/29} Wind SSE, vessel steering SW. at 6 AM tacked ship and stood east, at 11 AM tacked again and stood SW by S. discovered a current setting to the west at the rate of about one mile per hour. Lat by Obs 0§ 44' N. Long by Chro 31§ 25' W #s000 44N#e $s031 25W$e. Sunday 30h {1849/12/30} Light wind from ESE. vessel steering S by W. this day crossed the equator. Lat by Obs 0§ 43' South Long by C. 32§ 08' W #s000 43S#e $s032 08W$e. Monday 31st {1849/12/31} Moderate breeze from ESE, vessel steering SSW. Lat by Obs 2§ 22' South, Long 32§ 52' W #s002 22S#e $s032 52W$e. Tuesday January 1st 1850 {1850/01/01} Strong breeze from SE by S, tacked ship early in the morning and stood E by N. saw a bark and schooner standing to the South and West, at 8 AM tacked ship and stood SW 1/2 W. Lat by Obs 1§ 49' S. Long by Chro 32§ 10' W #s001 49S#e $s032 10W$e. Wished our absent friends a happy New Year. and while recording the same take the liberty to record with a solemn asservation, that there never was a cruise made of one tenth the length, that was not more productive of interest than our cruise thus far, it may be expected that at the commencement of a New Year, and bound on a voyage of this length, with the uncertainty of a continuation of health, or of bettering our worldly condition that most persons on board would have felt in the spirit of meditation, but these things which cause many to reflect and generally depress the spirits seem to have an entirely different effect upon our passengers and crew. their feelings seem more bouyant than usual, and they are sanguine that the beginning of another year will find them in most prosperous circumstances. Wednesday Jan 2 {1850/01/02} Fresh breeze from SE, vessel steering SSW, at 6 PM our first mate went aloft and soon gave us the cheering cry of land oh! it was in the dim distance of say sixteen or eighteen miles, two miles on the weather bow, and supposed to be the rocks or islands called the rocas, laid down in Lat 3§ 52' South, Long 33§ 44' West. at 8 PM tacked ship and stood NE, at 11 PM tacked again and stood SSW, wind during has been light attended with showers, Lat by Obs 3§ 19' S. Long by chro 33§ 27' W #s003 19S#e $s033 27W$e. [end of page df001_17.gif] Thursday Jan 3d 1850 {1850/01/03} Strong breeze and pleasant weather wind SE by E vessel steering SSW. Lat by Obs 4§ 55' S Long by DR 34§ 08' W #s004 55S#e $s034 08W$e. Friday 4h {1850/01/04} Strong breeze from SE. vessel making SSW course. at half past three PM. made the coast of Brazil at a place called the Point of Pipa. the land at a short distance resembles that of Long Island as seen when running through the sound. it is quite sandy and the vegetation is sparse, there are many little clusters of miserable huts along the coast, reminding one of the abodes of our southern slaves although hardly as good, at 5 PM tacked ship and stood to the East, Lat by Obs 6§ 17' South. Long by Chro 34§ 39' W #s006 17S#e $s034 39W$e. Saturday 5 {1850/01/05} Strong breeze from SE by S. furled top gallant sail, close reefed topsail and handed main stay sail. at 1 PM tacked ship and stood SE. Lat by Obs 6§ 40' S. Long by Chron 34§ 22' W #s006 40S#e $s034 22W$e. Sunday 6h {1850/01/06} Light wind from SE and pleasant weather. vessel running SW by S course, at 7 AM tacked ship and stood ENE. at 6 PM tacked against and stood SSW. We have been running down the coast keeping it in sight. ten to twenty miles distant, there is not anything very peculiar in the coast, it is alternately high and low land with bays rivers etc etc. and appears to be of so sandy a nature as not to permit vegetation that rank growth we would expect to behold in these latitudes, although in the interior it is probable vegetation is very luxuriant, numerous fires are discovered on the land at night which we presume are burning near the huts of the natives, and as the fire is fanned into a flame by the breeze and serves the needs. bamboos, cane and other light, dry, and combustible substances the flame and sparks suddenly shoot up to quite a height, and are as suddenly extinguished, presenting the appearance of rockets. Lat by Obs 7§10'S. Long by DR 34§ 30' W #s007 10S#e $s034 30W$e. Monday 7h {1850/01/07} Weather pleasant, light winds from SE, ESE, and NE. vessel steering SSW and South courses, twelve at night made Pernambuco light bearing west, distant say ten miles, fires were seen as on the night previous, [end of page df001_18.gif] about the only thing of interest. Many persons on board are carried away by what they deem the extrordinary beauty of the coast, but viewing it under the most favorable circumstances. longing after something to relieve the monotony of a two months trip at sea. together with a knowledge that the land we look upon produces the most delicious fruits, and is rich in more respects than one, I say under all these favorable circumstances, I cannot with truth record it as any thing more than very ordinary coast as seen from the deck of our vessel. Lat by Obs 8§ 41' South. Long by DR 34§ 48' W #s008 41S#e $s034 48W$e. Tuesday 8h Jany {1850/01/08} Moderate breeze from E. vessel steering south course. saw what was supposed to be a turtle asleep on the surface of the water, but could not get him for want of a boat. Lat by Obs 10§ 38' S. Long by DR 34§ 49' W #s010 38S#e $s034 49W$e, this is the anniversary of Jacksons victory, celebrated by one of the great political parties of our Union. there are quite a number of that party on board. but they have not displayed the least excitement, but are in a remarkably quiescent state, probably for want of one of the whippers in of the party with a code of instructions when to haloo &c. Wednesday 9h {1850/01/09} Fresh breeze and pleasant weather. wind E. vessel making South course. Lat by Obs 12§ 47' S. Long by chro 35§ 03' W #s012 47S#e $s035 03W$e. Thermometer standing 89§ F. saw a vessel standing S. Thursday 10h {1850/01/10} Fresh breeze from ENE. vessel standing SSW. spoke ship Andrew Scott forty three days from Portland ME, and bound to the diggings, we gave each other three times three. most of our passengers recognized a townsman on board the ship, and the recognition was mutual. Lat by Obs 14§ 59' S, Long by Chro 35§ 52' W #s014 59S#e $s035 52W$e. Friday 11h {1850/01/11} Light winds from E by N and E vessel steering SSW. the Andrew Scott in sight about ten miles astern. Lat by Obs 16§ 56' S. Long by DR 36§ 36' W #s016 56S#e $s036 36W$e. Saturday 12h {1850/01/12} Strong breeze from ENE. vessel making SSW course the Andrew Scott yet in sight, brig making good headway passengers greatly encouraged Lat by Obs 19§ 18' s. Long DR§ 37 29 W #s019 18S#e $s037 29W$e Sunday 13h {1850/01/13} Light winds from NE vessel steering SSW. Lat by Observ 21§ 24' South. Long by Chronometer 38 09 W. #s021 24S#e $s038 09W$e [end of page df001_19.gif] Monday 14h {1850/01/14} Strong breeze from NNE. vessel steering South. Lat by Obs 24§ 14' S, Long by Chro 38§ 36' W. #s024 14S#e $s038 36W$e Tuesday Jan 15 {1850/01/15} Fresh breeze from N vessel steering SSW. two Barks in sight standing to the Eastward, a very heavy swell running from SW. Lat by Obs 26§ 04' S. Long by DR 39§ 21' W. #s026 04S#e $s039 21W$e Wednesday 16h {1850/01/16} Light winds from N and cloudy sky. vessel steering SSW. passed several pieces of drift wood. Lat by Obs 27§ 26' South. Long by Chronometer 39§ 41' W. #s027 26S#e $s039 41W$e Thursday Jan 17h {1850/01/17} In the morning strong breeze from N, vessel steering SW by S. took in all sail but the fore course in preperation for a squall, which soon came from SW attended with rain. vessel steering SE by S, after the squall all on board repaired to the deck for the purpose of viewing the corposants which were discovered on the fore and main trucks. Lat by Obs 29§ 05' S, Long by DR 40§ 10' W. #s029 05S#e $s040 10W$e Friday Jan 18 {1850/01/18} Light wind from S by E and heavy head sea, vessel steering WSW, tacked ship and stood SW by S. wind from ESE. Lat by Obs 29§ 46' S, Long by Chro 41§ 15' W. #s029 46S#e $s041 15W$e Saturday 19h {1850/01/19} Light wind from NE by N, vessel steering SSW. weather very pleasant.. Lat by Obs 31§ 45' S. Long by Chro 42§ 31' W. #s031 45S#e $s042 31W$e Sunday Jan 20h {1850/01/20} Light wind from NE and N, vessel steering SW by S, Lat by Obs 33§ 46' S, Long by Chro 44§ 29' W #s033 46S#e $s044 29W$e. In Latitude 5§ N. Long 28§ 30' W. #s005 00N#e $s028 30W$e we discovered two light spots in the firmament bearing SSW which spots we had not heretofore observed, and which created considerable speculation. one or two persons on board seem to have an indistinct recollection of having read of nebula of a given size, which were to be seen every pleasant evening in a certain part of the southern hemisphere, but one or two have advanced and strongly adhere to the opinion that they are two of the three clouds known as the Magellan, which opinion did not meet with a very favorable reception from many, from the fact that we have no recollection of their being mentioned by any writers as seen north of the equator, neither do they seem to be in the right position, the opinion advanced has however been concurred in by most persons, as we have not yet seen any other clouds [end of page df001_20.gif] which could be taken for the Magellan, and for some three or four nights past we have discovered a small black cloud in the vicinity which appears to be stationary, and which before more and more opaque. it is therefore definitely settled that they are the famed Magellan clouds, although some one or two who have seen them a number of years since cannot trace any resemblance between them as seen now and previously. The smaller white cloud appears to travel part way around the larger as shown in the drawing. Monday Jan 21 {1850/01/21} Winds N & NE, vessel steering SW by S. weather cloudy, a heavy bank resembling fog arose in the West and passed over to the SE. Lat by Obs 35 15 S Long by DR 45§ 57' W. #s035 15S#e $s045 57W$e Tuesday 22d {1850/01/22} Fresh breeze in the first part of the day from N. middle and latter part NW& W, at 11 AM took in studding sails and furled mainsail. at 12 M weather very squally; latter part of the day wind moderated but very cloudy weather. Lat by DR 37§ 24' S Long by DR 47§ 44' W #s037 24S#e $s047 44W$e A sail was discovered on a weather beam bound N, late in the afternoon another sail was in sight bearing down for us, it proved to be the Bark Elizabeth of Mattapoisett nine months out on a whaling voyage with 500 Bbl Oil, they wanted to know if we could spare them any late papers, and having obtained a favorable answer sent a boat along side of us, the boats crew reminded me of the Menagerie Keeper, saying, ladies and gentlemen here is some Amphibious bipeds what can't live on the water and dies on the land. the cry is, two more sail in sight one to windward and one to leeward, all this is very cheering on the principle that misery likes company. Wednesday 23d {1850/01/23} First part of the day fresh breeze from W. vessels course SSW at 8 AM reefed topsail and mainsail, and stowed jib, at 3 PM wind WSW. vessel steering S by E and SSE handed the foresail and topsail, a strong gale and a heavy sea var 1 pt E Lat by DR 38§ 37' S Long by DR 47§ 52' W. #s038 37S#e $s047 52W$e Thursday 24h {1850/01/24} A gale of wind from SW vessel steering SSE at 7 AM wore ship and set jib, wind SSE, vessel steering SW by W. at 12 M shook out reef, latter part of the day calm weather & pleasant. Lat by Obs 38§ 12' S Long by DR 48§ 14' W #s038 12S#e $s048 14W$e [end of page df001_21.gif] Friday Jany 25h {1850/01/25} First part of the day calm, at 5 AM strong breeze from NW, vessel steering SW. Latter part of the day gale continuing close reefed topsail and mainsail and stowed Jib, wind West by North, vessel steering SSW. heavy showers of rain, vessel carries but foretop mast staysail and small piece of the mainsail, Lat by DR 39§ 22' S Long by DR 50§ 11' W. #s039 22S#e $s050 11W$e Saturday Jan 26h {1850/01/26} Wind S by W vessel steering W 1/2 S, wore ship and the wind being light shook out all reefs. Lat by Obs 39§ 14' S Long by Chro 49§ 52' W. #s039 14S#e $s049 52W$e Sunday 27h {1850/01/27} First part of the day calm. weather pleasant, at 8 AM breeze sprung up from NNW. vessel steering SW. breeze continued moderate until later in the day when it increased to a gale. two reefed the mainsail, Lat by Obs 40§ 02' S Long by Chron 51§ 11' W. #s040 02S#e $s051 11W$e Monday Jan 28h {1850/01/28} Gale continues. wind from NW by N, vessel steering SW two reefed the topsail, middle part of the day heavy rain, wind from SW by W vessel steering SSE at 4 PM wore ship and set jib. wind SSW vessel steering W by N turned the reefs out of the topsail Lat by Obs 40§ 10' S Long by Chro 52§ 35' W. #s040 10S#e $s052 35W$e Tuesday Jan 29h {1850/01/29} First part of the day light wind from SSW. vessel steering W by N. middle part of the day calm, latter part of the day wind WSW. vessel steering S. Lat by Obs 40§ 30' S Long by Chro 53§ 01' W. #s040 30S#e $s053 01W$e Wednesday 30h {1850/01/30} Moderate breeze from NW. vessel steering SW at 11 AM two reefed mainsail, wind hauled to WNW. vessel steering SSW. at 7PM two reefed topsail and stowed jib. wind SW, vessel steering SSE, at 11 PM handed foresail and foretopsail. Lat by DR 41§ 45' S Long by DR 54§ 07' W. #s041 45S#e $s054 07W$e Thursday 31st {1850/01/31} Gale from SW. vessels course SSE at 6 AM hauled in the Spencer, at 7 PM set the spencer. at 11 set the topsail two reefed. gale continues with heavy sea running, Lat by Obs 42§ 33' S Long by DR 53§ 00' W. #s042 33S#e $s053 00W$e [end of page df001_22.gif] Friday Feb 1 1850 {1850/02/01} Fresh breeze from WNW vessel steering SW, at 4 PM set foresail and jib and at 8 shook out all reefs, Lat by Obs 43§ 19' S Long by Chro 53§ 40' W. #s043 19S#e $s053 40W$e Weather is very cold and disagreeable. Saturday 2d {1850/02/02} Light wind from NW, vessel course SW, saw vast quantities of sea weed. at 10 PM tacked ship and stood SSW vessel course W. weather pleasant. caught an albatross with a hook and line it measured about ten feet from tip to tip of wing. Lat by Obs 44§ 39' S Long by Chro 55§ 54' W. #s044 39S#e $s055 54W$e Sunday Feb 3d {1850/02/03} Light wind from NW. vessels course WSW and weather pleasant Lat by Obs 45§ 12' S Long by Chro 55§ 54' W. #s045 12S#e $s055 54W$e Monday 4h {1850/02/04} Light wind from NNW, vessel course SW, middle of the day strong breeze and pleasant weather. Lat by Obs 46§ 50' S Long by Chro 60§ 26' W. #s046 50S#e $s060 26W$e Tuesday Feb 5 {1850/02/05} Fresh breeze in the morning from NNW. vessel course SW. middle part W by S, course S. latter part of of the day wind increase. Lat by Obs 48§ 14' S. Long by Chro 61§ 21' W. #s048 14S#e $s061 21W$e appearance of a storm. Wednesday 6h {1850/02/06} Weather pleasant, breeze strong from NW, vessel steering SSW, at 10 AM handed the foresail and two reefed the mainsail, during the day some Slush boiled over from the coppers and set fire to the galley, but was extinguished with but the loss to the cook of a pair of drawers and socks and putting an extra smut (if such a thing could be) on one or two other articles of his wearing apparel. Lat by Obs 50§ 17' S Long by DR 63§ 26' W. #s050 17S#e $s063 26W$e var 1& 3/4 pt Easty Thursday Feb 7 {1850/02/07} Fresh breeze from SW. vessel steering SSE. two reefed the topsail at 7 AM tacked ship and stood WNW, at 12 M tacked ship and stood SSW, wind West, at 7 PM shook out all reefs. Spoke a bark of and supposed from N York, 125 days out, she appe__ [obscured by ink stain] be standing over for the Falkland Isles, we did [obscured by ink stain] __certain her destination but supposed from appearances that she was bound to California and was about to land at the F Isles for supplies, her name was washed from her stern all that could be discerned was N York. one or two of the passengers discovered females on board. Lat by Obs 50§ 59' S Long by Chro 64§ 25' W. #s050 59S#e $s064 25W$e [end of page df001_23.gif] Friday Feb 8h {1850/02/08} Wind moderate, weather pleasant, at 12 M wind west heavy showers of rain, vessel steering SSW at 8 PM two reefed the topsail. Lat by Obs 52§ 45' S Long by Chro 66§ 16' W. #s052 45S#e $s066 16W$e Saturday 9h {1850/02/09} Strong west wind, vessel steering S by E, at 6 AM saw the land of Terra Del Fuego bearing South, twenty miles distant, it presents the appearance of a vast range of mountains, the summits of some are covered with snow, whilst others are hidden in dark leaden covered clouds more opaque than the mountains themselves, at 5 PM we are running for the Strts Le Maire now distant five miles, as we neared the cape of San Diego we heared the cry of Sail ho! And again, and yet again the cry of Sail ho! All running in from the east apparently for a harbor. the first we spoke was a little smack of forty-five tons called the Mary & Emma of Nantucket, with seven persons on board 65 days out. in answer to our inquiry of where they were bound, they said they were bound to the same place that every other person was, not knowing whether the individual who answered our hail was of a religious frame of mind, and if so what his particular belief was, or whether he spoke in a worldly manner, we remained unsatisfied as to his destination, although we gave him three cheers which he returned, the next we spoke was the full rigged brig Eliza of Glasgow, bound to Valparaiso, loaded with coal. a ship next appeared in regular cape Horn rig, wallowing along like some great monster of the deep. we had no opportunity of speaking her. but understood that she was the Alexander of Bath, bound to California with a number of passengers, several of whom were females. as the little smack in passing the ship rolled and pitched in a fearful manner, the females gave forth shriek after shriek, thinking no doubt each roll the little vessel made was her last. the vessel following the ship was a large bark whose name we did not ascertain, we all hove to that night in a place called Thetis[?] Bay (though for why I can't tell as it does not in the least resemble a bay.) and the morning found us snug under the land, whilst most of the other vessels were broad off to sea, having made considerable of a drift during the night. Sunday Feb 10h {1850/02/10} This morning we worked down the straits and ran into Good Success Bay, followed by the smack. we anchored as we supposed well in but upon hoisting [end of page df001_24.gif] our boats and rowing to the shore, discovered that we were from half to three quarters of a mile off, the bay is a good harbor for vessels in any wind but that of SE, and not a bad anchorage even then, it is large, capable of accommodating fifty ships of the line, and good holding ground, the bay is formed by large mountains, whose peaks run into the clouds at an elevation of twelve to fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. they are quite precipitous and from the deck of the vessel presented the appearance of being covered with a stunted kind of shrubbery, another proof of the old saying that appearances are quite deceitful, for upon getting ashore we found the mountains heavily timbered, one tree which we girted[?] measured about eighteen feet in circumference, many of them were one hundred feet in height, the soil was very rich and deep, vegetation very rank, an abundance of flowers and berries, one shrub bearing a berry very like the marsh cranberry. the rocks which line the shore are massive, and cavities of great depth are worn in them by the surf. one we measured ran one hundred and sixty feet in the mountain in a straight line, when it look an upward direction how much further we could not tell. the distance from the roof to the floor of this cavity was from ten to fifteen feet, there were evidences of the larger kind of wild animals occupying the forest although we saw none of them, after having rafted alongside and taken on board a supply of fresh water. (an abundance of which together with wood is to be obtained with ease) we carved our names upon the rocks, and erected a tablet on which was recorded the day of our having sailed from Eastport, the day of our arrival in the bay, and our place of destination. we then went on board and set sail, bidding adieu to Good Success Bay, with friendly feelings towards it for every thing but our reception on its shore, which was rather cool, being nothing more nor less than the capsize of our boat in the surf when first visiting the shore, and giving us a confounded ducking. it was on Tuesday at 6 AM when we left Good Success Bay, and on Thursday at 8 AM made Cape Horn bearing WSW distant eighteen miles, at 11 AM passed the Cape within half a mile with a fair wind, having been favored with decent weather and a fair wind, and knowing the bad reputation of the Cape, and considering ourselves beyond its reach, we hoisted up our swivel and having loaded it and put grape shot in, we fired it off full in the face of the Cape. but alas! we had begun too soon to manifest our contempt for the hoary weather beaten veteran, one hour after or at 12 M we were struck with a heavy squall from SW, attended with hail and rain. it appeared that we had roused the [end of page df001_25.gif] old fellow and we were now to receive our punishment, Our Captain concluding that if we did not gain an anchorage we should be blown off far to sea, thought best to try and gain one ----------under the lee of the Cape. Accordingly at 1 PM bore up and ran under the lee of the island and came to in what we have concluded to log as Clark's retreat (not knowing of its having heretofore been christened by any navigator.) -- a small cove, with ten fathoms of water, we gave the vessel both anchors and thirty five fathoms of chain. It appeared to be a singular place to anchor under the lee of the dreaded Cape, and it one of the mildest and grandest places of nature, the mountains towering up around us, and squalls of rain, hail, and snow sweeping over them constantly. seldom an half-hours interval of pleasant weather. the wooded portion of the island is far different from that of Good Success Bay, being of crabbed nurly growth, the largest being about the size and much resembling our quince trees, the shores are rocky and very precipitous and the granite rocks look as though they could withstand the storms of both Atlantic and Pacific without losing much in the conflict, we clambered up the side of the mountain at a place where the ascent appeared to be easy, but some of us were in a very tired and nervous state before we had attained half the height, which at the place selected was about three hundred feet, the rocks over which we clambered appeared safe, but it was a treacherous spot, the mere points of them were stuck in the earth, and a solid step upon them would cause them to tremble many feet around us and upon one stone being started by our mate who was one of the pioneers, many tons of stone and earth were carried with a thundering noise to the bottom. the summit of the mountain was at length attained and having rested we proceeded to erect a monument of loose stones, kindled a fire, and sat down to meditate, having remained upon the summit an hour or more, we prepared to return. a part of the company returned by the old track, whilst others selected a safer one. in proceeding to another part of the island we were compelled to walk upon the tops of the trees and bushes for some distance, which was about as easy as any part of the undertaking, as they were so compact and the level that they resembled a coarse mass, occasionally we would break through and go down to our armpits, having reached the bau[?] we commenced our descent, the spot was almost perpendicular, but they grass was long and tough, and by working a spot for our toes in the earth and holding on by the grass we accomplished the descent with ease, near the shore we found vestiges of a camp with one or two indian paddles resembling those of the Sandwich Islanders, also a grass [end of page df001_26.gif] basket in shape of a pipkin, and several pieces of the wreck of some vessel, the bushes around were much charred, evidence of a fire having been kindled, we sought along the beach for a stone soft enough to be cut with the chisel but were unable to find one. we accordingly cut upon a piece of wreck our visit to the Cape and placed it in a conspicuous place, and returned on board, voting the island the most desolate place we had ever seen Saturday Feb 16h {1850/02/16} Wind having moderated hove up our anchor and stood out to sea, did not accomplish much as the wind was ahead and the weather unpleasant. note cold and frequent squalls of hail and rain, with a very heavy sea Sunday 17h {1850/02/17} After beating yesterday and last night we found ourselves at 8 AM about eight miles to the westward and about twenty to the southward of the Cape. Our having made so little progress is owing to the heavy sea running, together with the strong easterly set to the current. In the forenoon say 11 AM we saw to leeward the island of Diego Ramires bearing W by S distant about twelve miles. Monday 18th {1850/02/18} Yesterday the wind sprang up from SW and blew with great fury all sail was immediately taken off with the exception of the foretopmast staysail with which we wore ship, as it was necessary that one should have some after sail upon her to keep her head to the sea we endeavored to balance reef the mainsail, and in so doing it was torn to pieces. a new foretopmast staysail was bent in its place, but as it did not have the desired effect we adopted the plan pursued by many of our down east fishermen of what is termed them dragging - namely affixing a kedge anchor to a spar, bending on about forty fathoms of hawser and paying it out over our weather bow, still she would not lay to our satisfaction, and we were compelled to resort to our torn mainsail a part of which we succeeded in hoisting, when she was made comfortable for the night although it blew a tornado and threw in a few hail squalls to complete the affair in a generous manner, this morning Monday 18th at 8 AM shipped a sea which started deck load and fore scuttle, stove some barrels and rinsed two or three of us out of the galley, In the afternoon partly bent new mainsail and stood in for the land under bare poles and came to [end of page df001_27.gif] anchor under the lee of Hermit Island in a snug cove six miles to the west of Cape Horn. While running for the land it rained hard and was so thick we could hardly discern the land when close aboard, and the sea was very heavy, the spray dashing against the mountains would be carried to the height of from one to two hundred feet. Tuesday 19th {1850/02/19} Got under way this morning at 8 AM and stood out of the harbor, during the time we lay at anchor the crew sent down top gallant yard and rigged in the flying jib boom, getting the vessel in storm rig &c we ran the coast along during the day with the wind NW. at dark we stood off well to the southward to clear the Ildefonso Isles Wednesday 20h {1850/02/20} Early this morning saw land on our starboard beam which was the southern of the Ildefonso's. the sea is running heavy and the wind increasing. Thursday mor. we discovered that we had neared the land during the night a distance of twenty miles more than we had calculated upon, which is attributed to the variation of the compass, the land nearest us is said to be Cape No[?] 22d 23d 24h 25h & 26h {1850/02/22} {1850/02/23} {1850/02/24} {1850/02/25} {1850/02/26} For the last five days we have accomplished but little. most of that we have gained one day we generally lost the next. the weather has been very disagreeable, rain squalls and head winds alternating. Wednesday 27h {1850/02/27} This day at 8 AM made Landfall Island, as the wind increased rapidly and a heavy gale was coming on the Capt concluded to run in for the land and harbor; at about 12 M succeeded in getting in close to the land, and ran for a cove which appeared to afford a safe anchorage. the wind which had heretofore blown regularly, now broke up into squalls which came from all directions, one of which squalls struck us ahead as we approached the entrance of the harbor, and entangled the peak of the mainsail with the rigging in such manner that it was impossible for a time to get the sail under control, during which time the brig altered her position so greatly that we were unable to obtain the desired haven, and she was accordingly brought to and anchored under the nearest land, the position of the brig was critical, the land near us was a mountain of vast height and inaccessible, the base of the mountain was composed of large jagged rocks and the only protection afford the brig was from a heavy sea, which was broken by a ledge running out some [end of page df001_28.gif] distance from the NW base of the mountain, while from the SE a number of rocks of large size some of them sunken, formed a protection from the sea in that quarter, at 2 PM the wind increased, starting from the NW gradually but in a few minutes blowing terrifically for a short period -- during the afternoon and evening the squalls increased in number and violence. the brig drifted so that with the extra scope given she was in fearful proximity to the chain of rocks, at 11 PM in one of the heavy squalls the large chain parted, and the general opinion was that the good brig Amelia would never reach the California shore. it was the opinion of all on board that a few minutes more the brig would cease to exist, or at best that she would be an unshapely mass - the crew forward had been engaged for some time past in packing their most valuable dunnage, whilst the passengers were selecting and bestowing about their persons some few articles they most prized, the officers of the brig had done all that could be done for her safety, and were anxiously awaiting the parting of the small chain. the kedge anchor weighing about 200 lbs had upon the parting of the large chain been attached to the hawser and carried ahead to assist the small anchor, and was no doubt instrumental in saving the vessel, although but little dependence was placed upon it - until half past three in the morning the squalls continued the same in violence, but did not bring so heavy a strain upon the cables; they were of a kind peculiar to this region, appearing at one time to come with like violence from all points of the compass; and again as though they were discharged from aloft directly down upon the deck of the vessel, one being unable to stand erect under them - at half past three a squall more severe than any we had yet experienced struck her partly on her side and passed off without having done any mischief - immediately after this the wind hauled more to the west and became moderate, and after a heavy fall of rain the weather was passably good. we swept for the anchor but were unsuccessful, and at 9 AM got underweigh and stood to sea with feelings greatly relieved - the danger we had escaped was imminent, we were so near the ledges that there was not the least possibility of our escaping from them by making sail had our small chain parted, unless a squall should have come from a different quarter at the time and assisted us - and had we struck the ledges she would have gone to pieces at once, or been swept over them to sea, bilged and unmanageable, we might (and it was the most reasonable project) have succeeded in saving the boats and by means of them worked our way into the straits and found some vessel passing [end of page df001_29.gif] through, which would have rescued us, but it would have been attended with much toil and suffering at the least, there are no doubt a number of places where we could have taken our boat through into the straits of Magellan, but we should in all probability have had much trouble in finding them. upon our overhauling the small chain we discovered that one link was broken half off, and another was split from end to end, so we considered our escape almost in the light of a miracle. Friday March 1st {1850/03/01} This day we have progressed but little, owing to the heavy Easternly set of the current and light winds. Saturday 2d {1850/03/02} Wind light but favorable, have run the land along and and are approaching Cape Pillar, the mountains all along are high, of singular shapes and very barren, and ragged looking, the summits of many are covered with snow. since we entered the Straits Le Maire we have seen vast numbers of whale, every bay or cove appearing to have numbers of them sporting within it, a great many ducks, geese, and other sea fowl are to be seen along the coast some few of which we have killed. and found them very palateable but very poor in flesh. At 6 PM passed Cape Pillar which is the southern Cape of the Western entrance to the Magellan Strait. we found a strong current setting out of the straits which worked us well to windward. Sunday 3d {1850/03/03} Morning found us out of sight of Cape Pillar but we could discover the land on the North side of the Straits. Monday 4th {1850/03/04} Wind ahead vessel steering WSW at 9 AM passed a Bark steering ENE and quite near. thick fog and heavy sea. Tuesday 5 {1850/03/05} Fresh breeze from W. vessel steering N by W, at 9 AM fog cleared up, saw a ship to windward, exchanged signals she proved to be an American at 12 M she laid her mizen topsail to the mast and hoisted her burgee but we could not read her name. at sundown she was out of sight. Wednesday 6 {1850/03/06} Strong breeze from SW, vessel steering NW. at 12 M saw a [end of page df001_30.gif] sail steering same as ourselves, supposed it to be the same vessel we saw yesterday, fog combing on soon lost sight after. Lat by Obs 48§ 43' S Long Thursday Mar 7 {1850/03/07} Strong breeze from W by S. vessel steering NNW. heavy sea running, nothing of interest to record but a visit from an immense school of porpoise of a kind we have seen but once or twice. they have brown backs with white bellies and noses, they perform the most extrordinary maneuvers, springing form the water and falling in the most awkward positions, and continuing these performances for an hour or more affording a most laughable sight. Tuesday March 12 {1850/03/12} The five preceding days have not afforded anything of interest, the breeze has been favorable but the weather has been mostly hazy so that it was impossible to obtain sights that could be relied upon. At 12 M discovered land bearing W by N and supposed it to be Juan Fernandez, as we have been running for the island for the purpose of obtaining supplies we bore up and at dark was within some eight or ten miles, the Brig was hove to until day light when we made sail and stood for a point which was supposed to indicate the harbor, the wind was quite light and a good part of the day was passed in working up to it although not far distant, it presented a far different appearance this morning from that of last night, the island which last night appeared to be some twelve or fifteen miles long, proved to be not more than half that length, we did not run close in, at no time being less than four miles distant, but we were sufficiently near to ascertain that we had mistaken the island and harbor, the land was of great height and a portion of it was continually enveloped in clouds, there appeared to be plenty of wood and water and a great deal of table land susceptible of cultivation, It was the wish of the Capt to land, but upon close examination we could not find any spot which appeared to offer a safe landing, we knew it must be Massafuero eighty miles to the westward of Juan Fernandez and accordingly stood to the eastward and arrived at Juan on the night of Thursday the 14th. the island of Juan Fernandez as you approach it from the westward appears as if really is quite a lengthy island. the NW part of fit is which is Cumberland Bay, is the highest part. it gradually declines until you reach the SE extremity, when it again rises but not to the same elevation of the NW part. off the SE part is a small island say two miles off the main which is higher than the land adjacent, as you near the island, you look in vain for the rich vegetation in which you have been led to believe it is clothed, there are a few spots of greenish yellow to be discovered here and there, that look as though they had struggled hard with a sterile soil for an existence but were [end of page df001_31.gif] compelled to succumb, the land is much broken up, deep gullies present themselves though the whole extent and the general appearance is quite unpromising, as we approached the NW part every eye was anxiously seeking out the harbor, but nothing of the kind presented itself, we however saw a Bark which appeared to be standing out from the land and by the aid of the glass discovered two more vessels anchored in shore and we presumed if harbor there was, there it must be, as we were beating in we spoke the barque standing off, she proved to be the Orion of Boston 120 days out and bound to California with one hundred and seventeen passengers, they gave us three cheers which were promptly returned. night spread her mantle before we had ascertained the true position of the harbor but we continued to beat the brig in without any knowledge or fear of danger, one of the vessels at anchor as we approached hoisted a lantern which served to pilot us, and at ten oclock we dropped our anchor in fifteen fathoms and in close proximity to a fill rigged brig and a topsail schooner, fishing lines were got over the side and soon the floundering of fish was heard on deck, joyful sound to all on board, as we knew that we should be regaled with a fresh mess ere many hours, soon after the sails were furled we endeavored to peer through the darkness and ascertain the kind of place at which we had arrived, we could discover high land surrounding us, and so high that it did not permit the glimmer of a star to shine down upon us, our ears too were saluted with all manner of noises, the braying of asses, barking of dogs, neighing of horses &c &c. soon after coming to anchor we were visited by several persons from the brig before mentioned. they gave us as news that the island had been vacated by the troops and families that formerly had possession of it, that some few persons since that time had settled upon it for the purpose of cutting wood to supply vessels, and catching the fur seal (which are numerous) the skins of which they sell to trading vessels or ship to some port on the main. they stated that we would not be able to obtain any supplies from the island other than wood and water, but that we could get any quantity of peaches and quinces; with but the trouble of gathering, the brig was the Galen of New Bedford 155 days out and bound to California with several passengers, they had suffered much from bad provision and the leaking of the brig, which was so bad as to keep them most of the time at the pumps, they had lost one of their passengers by his having jumped overboard in a fit of derangement. he had become quite melancholy soon after leaving the US and endeavored to commit suicide by cutting his throat, being frustrated in this he took advantage of an opportunity that offered and went overboard, they stated that nearly every vessel that had rounded the Horn had lost one or more by sickness [end of page df001_32.gif] and that on board the Orion there had been much difficulty among the passengers, the Doct of the Orion having been put in irons for attempting to poison some on board, early in the morning we went on shore and were delighted with the appearance of things. the mountains towered around us to a vast height, one of them said to have been ascended but once, was we were told 5285 feet above the level of the sea. the soil was rich and deep, and on the sides of the mountains and in the vallies the vegetation was very luxuriant, while the bases of the mountains and the sharp edges and pinnacles were hard clay and of different colors. it would be impossible for me to describe the quantity of fruit trees, suffice it that the vallies were filled with peach, and quince, and cherry trees, and the fruit upon the two first was of the finest kind, and the trees were breaking down under their luscious burthens, the cherry tree was not in bearing the peach was of the cling stone kind and of the largest size. they were hardly ripe, but we ate them with avidity and suffered no ill effects from them, we found there were twelve residents upon the island, two of them were Chileans with their families, whilst the others were persons who had been left there at their own request from whale ships, they were all of the vagrant order. we were surprised to find a Yankee as one of the oldest residents on the island, he was from Whiting, Maine and had been residing on Juan and Massafuero for the last three years, nine months of the time was passed upon Massafuero the remainder upon Juan Fernandez. he had been quite unfortunate, according to his story having accumulated by sealing the value of one thousand dollars, and being anxious to leave Massafuero where had resided alone for the space of six months and wanting to convey his furs to Valparaiso for a market, he agreed with the Capt of a Chilian schooner that touched at the island to take him with his effects to that place. his effects were embarked, and while he was on shore getting his dogs, the vessel was got underweigh and left him. since which he has not heard any thing of her and he had not been able to get to Valparaiso. he was compelled to remain three months upon Massafuero with no means of support but that obtained by his dogs, who caught goats, an abundance of which are upon the island, he was finally taken off by a whale ship and brought over to Juan. he describes Massafuero as being nearly round, with about the same quantity of land upon it that there is upon Juan Fernandez, and that the land is better and more level, he says there is a commodious hut upon the island and plenty of the same kind of fruit that is to be found upon Juan, whilst the wood and water is of the best kind, and easily obtained. he gave us much information in regard to Juan, stating that twelve years since there had been near fifteen hundred souls upon the island. it had been used by the Chilian government as a place [end of page df001_33.gif] of confinement for criminals, and a body of soldiers were stationed there to guard them. the island contained a governor a captain of troops, and a Catholic priest, each of whom in his individual Capacity discharged well his duty, namely representing the dignity of the Chilian government, the security of the criminals, and the conversion of many souls to the Holy Catholic Church, there had been also a fine spacious house erected for the governor, and several plain but comfortable ones for the subordinates, a Chapel had also been erected capable of containing half the residents. the Convicts had been compelled to dig caves about midway up a mountain, where when requiring rest or not engaged upon the public works they were confined, there were seven caves of different sizes, the largest was about eighty feet long, twenty in width, and near that in height, the floors were level, roofs arched, and they appeared to be more comfortable as places of residence than the huts now upon the island. the mountain appeared to be composed of hard clay, and soft rock, and much labor had been expended in digging the caves. soon after the time he spoke of there had been a revolt among the troops seconded by the Convicts, and the officers were compelled to convey them to Valparaiso, the buildings were destroyed and the island left without inhabitants. since the evacuation of the island, the crews and passengers of vessels touching there had visited the caves and cut their names upon the walls until they were completely covered, two fortifications had been erected to command the harbor, and the walls of one were in a fair state of preservation. it had the appearance of having been intended for a fort with officers quarters &c within the walls, but the work had progressed no further than the erection of the walls and the mounting of a battery, two or three guns remained, and were of of large Calibre, should judge them to be long twenty fours, the work on this fort was neat, and in the centre of the front a tablet was placed on which had been an inscription and a coat of arms, the inscription had become illegible together with a part of the coat of arms, the cross and insignia of the golden fleece was however plainly to be seen, the convicts had undoubtedly done much labor. walls had been erected for the purpose of inclosing tilled land & were seen in various places. a trench or aqueduct of a primitive kind had been made for the purpose of conveying fresh water from some distance down to the landing place where a wharf or breakwater had been erected for the security of boats, the breakwater was in a dilapidated state, and the landing place was not the most convenient in the world, it would be a difficult matter to describe the island so that one who had never seen scenery of the kind could have a true idea of it, the scenery is indeed of a peculiar kind. the mountains run up sharp, or in other words with a quick [end of page df001_34.gif] ascent. here you see some three or four grouped together bearing a great resemblence one to the other, and there you see some number all of different shapes. their clothing reminds one of Jacobs coat, as beside a patch of the deepest green you discover a light or deep yellow, a dark brown or red, and a blue or purple. Little lines were to be seen on the sides of the steepest mountains drawn as with a pencil, which we were told were mule tracks, and ere we left we had the pleasure of seeing one of the Chilian residents on a mule wending his way over the mountains into the interior, as we were told for the purpose of getting a supply of goats meat which is to be had some few miles from the harbor, he was rolling or swaying from one side of his mule to the other, smoking his cigarrillo, and presenting that appearance of dreamy unconsciousness in which the Dago passes half his days. After getting a supply of wood and water we proceeded to collect a quantity of fruit, and brought on board some twenty bushels of peaches and quinces. the crew and passengers of the Brig Galen as also of the schooner Ruby of Steuben 113 days out and bound to California, were actively engaged in gathering fruit, and no doubt took on board their respective vessels twice the quantity we gathered, there were five thatched huts upon the island, and the occupants appeared to be content if they but obtained enough to keep soul and body together. at one hut they were engaged in pealing and dying peaches for further use, and we spent some time in their society, the females appeared to possess some little life and frolicsome spirit, with about the same quantity of modesty that mother Eve did when the partook of the fruit form the tree of good and evil, but the men were in their opinion, no doubt of too much importance to smile or exibit any degree of interest in anything doing around them, We were told that there were plenty of goats in the interior, and also some two or three hundred head of horses, asses, and mules, with a small sprinkling of wild dogs and cats. I had forgotten to mention that there are many fig trees upon the island. the fruit was about half grown, and the trees bore a goodly crop, on Friday evening the schooner Ruby got under weigh and stood out to sea, we gave her three cheers and a gun, Saturday morning we tripped our anchor and followed her, leaving the brig Galen in the harbor. we also cheered the brig and gave her a gun as we passed her, As we were running out of the harbor we saw a cave in a small bay which cave was said to have been that of Alexander Selkirk - alias - Robinson Crusoe. And we left the island with feelings almost of regret, our impression was that it might be made a paradise, the land is susceptible of the highest state of cultivation, and will provide almost anything, the climate is fine, the air salubrious, the scenery grand and beautiful, and the unfavorable impression we had formed of the island as we approached it was completely done away with ere we left it. it wants but a few Yankee families upon it, and it will soon appear as a garden [end of page df001_35.gif] of Eden, you would not as now be compelled to leave without fresh provision but everything that our most favored markets afford could be obtained and in the greatest abundance. At present there are no fowl to be obtained, no meat but goats meat, no vegetables as they raise barely enough for their own consumption. and if you want wood you are compelled to pay eight dollars for a whaleboat load, or clamber up the mountaintops cut it down, and convey it the distance of half a mile to your boats, on the little island adjoining Juan we were told we could obtain as many goats as we wanted, but most person would prefer paying a smart sum for meat to which they were accustomed. And quite an amount could be obtained by the occupants of the island in furnishing vessels and the trouble and expense would be to them but trifling. Friday May 3d {1850/05/03} Since leaving Juan the weather has been very pleasant, on the 21st of March {1850/03/21} we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn in Long 85§ W #s023 30S#e $s085 00W$e, on the 23d we saw a brig to leeward running NW, on the 28th we spoke the brig George Shattuck of NY from Boston, the same brig spoke on the 26th Nov. 1849 {1849/11/26}, they stated that they had been in Talcahuano for supplies and had left forty sail of vessels in the harbor bound to California. they also state that there had been a heavy fire in San Francisco and that there was much sickness, we sailed side by side an hour or more. April the 7th {1850/04/07} we crossed the Equator in Long 104§ 32' W. Apr 12 {1850/04/12} a small schooner in sight supposed to be the smack Mary and Emma. Ap 13 {1850/04/13} the schooner being within three or four miles they hoisted out a boat and the Capt, two passengers, and two of the crew visited us, she proved to be the Angola a vessel of about eighty tons, clipper built and intended for an Opium smuggler, she had been purchased in San Francisco by some sailor miners for eight thousand dollars, and was engaged in supplying the San Francisco market with fruit, vegetables &c &c. she had been to Payti[?] and was twenty one days from that port with a cargo of sweet potatoes, onions, pumpkins &c &c. they remained on board until near dark and gave us much cheering news as regards California, and when they left we fired our big gun, gave them three cheers, and a small quantity of music. Ap 17 {1850/04/17} we saw a brig standing NW. Ap 18 {1850/04/18} spoke brig Volante of St. John NB bound to San Francisco 159 days out. I had omitted to state that on the 7th of April whilst we were moving slowly along, a fish of singular kind (as represented in the drawing) followed in our wake and was quite near us. it was attended by two fish resembling cod fish, each them were about two feet long, and from their actions we judged that they were officiating as pilots to the larger one. we were told by some of the crew of Schr Angola that the large fish was known by the names of the devil fish and diamond fish, and the two that we imagined as pilots were of the sucker kind On the 6th May {1850/05/06} we mad the land and judged ourselves to be a degree or more to the southward of San Fran. it [end of page df001_36.gif] was quite foggy and there were some ten or twelve sail all standing off and on, by a sudden glow or rise of the fog we saw the marks indicating the harbor, and stood in and arrived here and at anchor in the afternoon, in company with the Bark Orion, the Sch Ruby and some other old acquaintance, the harbor is a fine one and there are at the present time between three and four hundred vessels at anchor. there is nothing in San Fran that can cause one to entertain a kindly feeling towards it. the weather now is cold and disagreeable. the wind blows very hard from W. the town is built or scattered over a great surface, the streets are almost impassable on account of sand, and it is what may be called a very promiscuous sort of a place. there are persons here from every quarter of the globe, and every one appears to be deeply immersed in thought and slides along quietly. no noise or confusion. building are springing up rapidly and the opinion I have formed is that the thing called business is overdone, and although fortunes may be made by some, many persons will also be ruined, not alone in a pecuniary way, the time will tell whether good or evil will predominate to persons visiting this country for the purpose of bettering their condition in the next five or ten years. I am inclined I am inclined to think the latter. with this remark I close the journal. I should like to add more, but lack time. should I ever encounter this book after returning from the mines I should take the opportunity to write a few more lines. I hope that those who may peruse this will make allowance for errors and coarse paintings a vessel of a small class crowded with passengers is not the best place in the world to bring anything of this kind to perfection and with this hint I hope the reader will not criticize closely D.C.P. (D.C. Powers) [end of page df001_37.gif] Cape Horn bearing N by W distant 6 miles [end of page df001_38p.jpeg] Brig Amelia in a gale wind off Cape Horn with a drag out for the purpose of keeping her head to the sea Feb 17th 1850 {1850/02/17} [end of page df001_39p.jpeg] Critical situation of the Brig Amelia on the night of the 27th February 1850 {1850/02/27} [end of page df001_40p.jpeg] Island of Massafuero Lat 33§ 45' S Long 80§ 39' W #s033 45S#e $s080 39W$e [end of page df001_41p.jpeg] Drawing of a fish seen when crossing the line April 7th 1850 {1850/04/07}, supposed breadth 15 feet, length about 12 feet. two pilot fish preceding it. [end of page df001_42p.jpeg] Cumberland Bay - Juan Fernandez taken as the brig was running out [end of page df001_43p.jpeg]