Thursday,
April
15
I
didn't write Sunday because I forgot to. I didn't write Monday,
Tuesday, and Wednesday because when a person is seasick diaries
or nothing else matter. Well, anyhow, we remained anchored
Sunday. We sent mail ashore. We loafed most of the day. I
spent some time computing tanks for chief. We got underway
the next morning. In the afternoon we reached the Gulf of
Alaska. We went out at Cape Ommaney. I got seasick. Tuesday
afternoon I found that water had leaked all over my bunk through
my port. Tuesday and Wednesday I was in complete misery on
account of being seasick. I had company, tho. Wednesday morning
when I came on watch we were bucking a gale. The wind would
almost take me off my feet when I was on deck. It was cold.
A little ice on deck made it very slippery in places. As we
were heading right into the gale we pitched more than we rolled.
Otherwise the ship would have cut some capers. She took sea
after sea over her bow. This morning it was smooth and foggy.
A blanket of snow covered the decks. The thermometer went
down to 23o. At 5:18 land was sighted on our starboard
bow. As we got closer the scenery took on a grandeur that
was greater than I had seen before. The mountains were snow-covered
all the way down to the water except where they were too steep
to hold the snow. It looked as if the desolate and bleak coast
we were approaching had never been disturbed by the trespassing
of white men. It reminded me of some newly discovered land
which arctic explorers hadn't even named. But there was something
grand about it. We arrived at Kodiak in the morning. Like
Ketchikan, Kodiak doesn't show all of herself at first. There
must be several hundred people here, mostly Siwashes. I walked
around a little today. In the afternoon Mr. Sobieralski told
me that I would probably be tide gauge man, and got me to
help him put the Kodiak tide gauge back into working order.
It was still out of order after we got it to running. I discovered
the trouble at about dark. I was trying to fix it up and the
whole outfit got loose from me, and she got in about the same
kind of mess that she was in before we touched her. As we
expect to get away at 7 tomorrow morning, I had to get her
going again, altho at first my task seemed hopeless. I got
a quartermaster and a flashlight and finally got her going
again. I will leave my impressions of the dance that I watched
tonight until tomorrow as it is late and I have to get up
early.
Saturday,
April
17
Got
up at 6:00 yesterday to look at tide gauge before leaving.
Made minor adjustment. Just as we were about to shove off
a lady came down, wanting to go to Sand Point. The captain
agreed to take her and her son. While they were gone after
their baggage I went to look at the tide gauge again. I broke
a lead point just as the passengers came aboard, with my usual
luck. Delayed the ship a few minutes. We finally got away
at 7:30. But I forgot the dance. Most of us went up. We must
have made some appearance with our bald heads. The dance was
in what looked like a church. It was lighted by dim electric
lights. On one side of the room were the girls and on the
other side the boys. There were probably 30 girls and women
present .... There were sailors in overalls and well dressed
sailors and others. I soon learned that high heels have invaded
the North. The stringed orchestra started a waltz. The boys
went over and got the girls, and the dance was on. One of
the few dim lights started flickering. An old stoop-shouldered,
long-mustached Indian in the orchestra laid his guitar down,
got a step-ladder, and fixed the light. About the second or
third dance some of the Filipino mess boys came in. After
awhile they brought their music boxes and started up a waltz
while the other orchestra was playing a one-step. I went aboard
pretty early.
Well,
after leaving Kodiak we headed for Uyak. We got there at about
4:00, but finding that we couldn't get water we didn't stop.
The scenery all day was grand. Wherever snow could get a foothold
it had stayed. Late in the afternoon we passed some signals
which had been put up last year. The day was ideal . Shelikof
Straits was as smooth as a mill pond. Sunset was wonderful.
It was beautiful to watch the mountains fade out as darkness
came on. With my usual luck I wrote up part of my log on the
wrong page.
This
morning we saw the Semidi Islands dimly soon after I came
on watch. It was pitch dark, and the islands showed a little
"pitcher" than the blackness around them. We passed Castle
Cape on my watch. Today has been a duplicate of yesterday
as far as weather is concerned. It is cold, but we don't feel
it so as there is not much air. Yesterday the thermometer
went down to 19o. We passed more signals established
last year. Saw a school of whales yesterday and one whale
today. Arrived at Sand Point about 6:00. Went ashore in launch
that carried passengers ashore. Saw a bunch of furs. Cleaned
shot gun tonight. Tonight we were having a feed in the galley
at about 10:30 when Dr. Buckley, of Kodiak, came aboard. He
is going back to Kodiak with us when we go. He was once a
Coast Surveyor. The Aurora Borealis showed a little tonight.
This is the second time I ever saw it. I saw it in Seattle
around Mar. 20th.
Sunday,
Apr.
18
The
Captain, Dailey, I went ashore in the motor sailer this a.m.
to see about the tide gauge and water. The propeller shaft
got loose, and we rowed alongside the Redwood. This was after
we anchored in Barolof Bay. We came over here about 9:15 this
a.m. After looking over the tide gauge it was decided to put
another one in and overhaul the old one. We went back to the
ship, and the ship came alongside the dock after dinner. Dailey
and I replaced the tide gauge. I have been tinkering with
it off and on all day. It started snowing this P.M. It has
snowed almost ever day since we left Seattle.
Monday,
Apr.
19
Left
Barolof Bay at 7:00. The farther we got the wilder the country
looked. Got to King's Cove and dropped anchor a few minutes
after four. Most of the officers went in. The Yukon was found
in fairly good shape. The Redwood was anchored in the bay,
and the Catherine D. was at the dock. Got a couple of cards
off on the Katherine D. but didn't have time to get a letter
off. Am very anxious to try my luck at bear. Dailey and I
have been planning a campaign tonight.
Tuesday,
Apr.
20
Dailey,
Lewis, ; I went over to the Yukon this morning with a bunch
of them. Got most of the shed cleared away and a good deal
of cleaning and scraping done.
Wednesday,
Apr.
21
Same
as yesterday.
Thursday,
Apr.
22
Went
ashore same as yesterday. Motor sailer broke down coming back
for dinner. We had to row it in. Snowed right hard for awhile.
Sewed tonight.
Friday,
Apr.
23
Worked
on Yukon. Cold, rainy, and disagreeable. Ship was changing
anchorage when we came back tonight. We had to play around
a few minutes before we could come aboard.
Saturday,
Apr.
24
Worked
on Yukon this A.M. Half holiday this afternoon. Dailey and
I went about 3 miles above the head of the lagoon here to
do a little reconnaissance, preliminary to going bear hunting.
We shot our rifles some. I shot mine 16 times and got somewhat
of a line on my gun and sights. We just missed the 5:00 P.M.
boat when we got back. Started to put the Yukon's dory in
the water and row back, but the motor sailer came after us.
Tonight I tried to argue Dailey and Lewis into leaving early
this morning, but nothing doing. Wish that L.J. Williams were
along. We would have camped in bear country tonight if he
were. We finally compromised on 8:00.
Sunday,
Apr.
25
Left
ship at 8:30 with Lewis and Moore for a hunt. Got near Cold
Bay, and turned back. Hard climbing, not being in training.
Saw ptarmigan for the first time. Saw caribou tracks in a
great uncharted valley which empties into Cold Bay. Lewis
saw bear tracks. Pedometer registered 19 1/2 miles. Misty,
drizzly, and foggy. Got back to the dock at 2:50 but had to
wait for the 4:00 boat. Mr. Morgan, Supt. of the Cannery,
his wife and son and another cannery man took supper with
us.
Monday,
Apr.
26
Went
ashore as usual. Did carpenter work on Yukon's pilot house,
or tried to. First I sawed a line down a finger and then I
mashed the same one. The pilot house wasn't the only thing
I did carpenter work on.
Forgot
to say that I was rudely awakened at three this morning to
stand a woolewar watch. Didn't go to bed until after eleven
last night, either. I said aplenty and thought whatever I
didn't say.
Wednesday,
Apr.
28
Forgot
to write yesterday. However, only followed regular routine.
Went
to the Yukon this morning. I have become the boss carpenter
on the Pilot House and some carpenter I am. As a carpenter
I am a pretty good mess boy. However, I am learning. Today
was cold and rainy.-About the most disagreeable we've had
yet. When we knocked off this morning the motor sailer broke
down halfway to us. Some of the crowd rowed out to her in
a dory and towed her in. We rowed her back. This afternoon
they couldn't get her started, so we didn't go ashore. Just
loafed around.
Thursday,
Apr.
29
Rigged
up steering wheel of Yukon today. All of the gas boats are
on the bum. Some of us rowed the Yukon's skiff out to the
ship at dinner instead of waiting for the launch. The skiff
towed the launch back most of the way this afternoon. Rowed
ashore with Chief after supper and helped him on plumbing
fixtures until about dark. Saw mosquitos tonight.
Friday,
Apr.
30
Took
theodolite ashore this morning and practiced a little. Worked
on Yukon rest of day.
Sat.,
May
1
Worked
on Yukon this morning and part of afternoon. Dailey and Lewis
and I came aboard in skiff at dinner time, and Dailey and
I came aboard in skiff at supper time. We are all set for
a hunt tomorrow. Tonight is as clear as a whistle. The mountains
cut the sky in sharp lines. Tonight is one of those clear,
moonlight nights that come only occasionally.
Sunday,
May
2
Dailey,
Mower, Lewis, and I went out at 7:00 this morning. All except
Mower had rifles. We got to Cold Bay at about 10:30. Caribou
and bear tracks were found along the beach. During the day
I saw hundreds of caribou tracks and some fox tracks, besides
the bear tracks. A number of bear trails made walking thru
the grass easier at times. Got back at about 6. Forgot to
take pedometer, but we must have walked somewhere between
twenty and twenty-five miles. Tired and stiff tonight, but
ready to go again at the first opportunity.
Monday,
May
3
Yukon
as per usual. Cold and windy. Below freezing. Very disagreeable
for working.
Tuesday,
May
4
Yukon
again. Weather same as yesterday if not colder. The woolewars
are out tonight. I am sure to be routed out sometime before
daylight to stand a watch. I am going to get some of my things
ready for going into camp. Just finished a 26-page letter
to the home folks.
Saturday,
May
8
Wednesday
A.M. Lewis and I went in with the first boatload of
supplies
; men for the Yukon. The launch had most of the men and a
bunch of mess stores. A whaleboat, which was in tow, had the
bedding and clothing. The dingy was in tow of the whaleboat.
It was blowing a gale or very near it. When we set out the
three boats made a very good imitation of a very active snake.
The dingy swamped. When we got close to the beach the whaleboat
was cast loose so that they could make a landing. The wind
caught them, and they started out to sea. We had to chase
them. We towed them to the dock. The dingy was towed in bottom
side up. We finally got underway at about 11 A.M. When we
got out we could see clear down to Unimak Island. The volcano
showed up over a bunch of clouds. On the end of the peninsula,
? also showed up. Got a fine view of the Needles, just
west of Pavlof Vol. Some sight. Pass close to Pavlof. A gale
got us. Seasick of course. Stopped at Pirate Cove at about
8:30. Doctor was put into a whaleboat with the best seamen,
and taken ashore to see the woman who was sick. It was almost
blowing a gale then. Came back and reported that the woman
had died the day before. Got underway about 9:30, and got
to Unalashagvik, where Mower was to land, at about 8:30 P.M.
Thursday. A pretty good sea was running altho it had been
calm part of the day. We remained anchored in Dry Bay until
8:30 P.M. Friday, waiting for a gale to blow out so that Mower
could be landed and what gets me, I got up at 3:45 a.m. to
see Mower off. All of us (Mower, Bond, Lewis and I) had our
camping outfits ready. Late Friday afternoon the Capt. got
a message that the Watson which had oil for us, had arrived
at Kodiak and left. That upset the camping parties, as we
had to run for oil, having only 4 or 5 days supply of oil
for regular cruising. Stopped at Kodiak at about 9:00 A.M.
today to get mail and laundry, and put Dr. Buckley ashore.
I went ashore to look at the tide gauge. Found it all out
of whack. Fixed it. Hope it will run. Got four letters from
home. Four from Lowrie, and some others. Lowrie wrote me that
his father had died. Poor Lowrie had had a hard time. Got
underway at about 9:30 A.M. for Latouche. We have been running
along the Kenai Peninsula most of the afternoon. Have had
almost a dead calm this afternoon. Hardly enough motion to
disturb a glass level full of water. Saw three whales and
a seal.
