WARWICK   CASTLE.                                        165
that belong to the Catholic reUgion ! The eye "aches for them.
Such a church is ruined by Protestantism ; its admirable ex-
terior seems that of a sepulchre ; there is "no correspondent Ufe
within.
Within the citadel, a tower half ruined and ivy-clad, is Ufe
that has been growing up while the exterior bulwarks of the .old
feudal time crumbled to ruin. George Fox, while a prisoner at
York for obedience to the dictates of his conscience, planted here
a walnut, and the tall tree that grew from it still " bears testimony "
to his living presence on that spot The tree is old, but stiU bears
nuts ; one of them was taken away by my companions, and may
perhaps be the parent of a tree somewhere in America, that shall
shade those who inherit the spirit, if they do not attach importance
to the etiquettes, of Quakerism.
In Sheifield I saw the sooty servitors tending their furnaces.
I saw them also on Saturday night, after their work was done, go-
ing to receive its poor wages, looking pallid and dull, as if they
had spent on tempering the steel that vital force that should have
tempered themselves to manhood.
We saw, also, Chatsworth, with its park and mock wilderness,
and immense conservatory, and reaUy splendid fountains and wealth
of marbles. It is a fine expression of modern luxury and splen-
dor, but did not interest me ; I found little there of true beauty or
grandeur.
Warwick Castle is a place entirely to my mind, a real represen-
tative of the English aristocracy in the day of its nobler Ufe. The
grandeur of the pile itself, and its beauty of position, introduce you
fitly to the noble company with which the genius of Vandyke has
peopled its walls. But a short time was allowed to look upon
these nobles, warriors, statesmen, and ladies, who gaze upon us in
turn with such a majesty of historic association, yet was I very
well satisfied. It is not difficult to see men through the eyes of
Vandyke. His way of viewing character seems superficial,
though commanding ; he sees the man in his action on the
crowd, not in his hidden life; he does not, like some painters,
amaze and engross us by his revelations as to the secret springs