William F. Andelt
Colorado State University Cooperative Extension
- Coyotes
cause an annual loss of approximately $2,000,000
to sheep producers in Colorado.
- Foot-hold
traps that range in size from #1.75 coil-spring
to #3N long-spring with offset jaws work well for
capturing coyotes.
- Capture
success is increased by setting traps near coyote
tracks or droppings that indicate areas of frequent
use.
- To
avoid capturing non-target animals, increase the
weight required to spring traps, carefully select
sites where traps are set, and cover baits placed
in dirt holes.
- To
minimize injuries, use padded or laminated traps
and check them daily.
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The coyote (Canis latrans) is a 20- to 40-pound omnivore that
feeds primarily on mammals, birds, insects and fruits. They
kill an estimated 1 percent to 2.5 percent of the domestic
ewes and 4 percent to 8 percent of lambs resulting in an annual
loss of approximately $2,000,000 to sheep producers in Colorado.
Foot-hold
traps ranging in size from #1.75 coil-spring to #3N long-spring
with offset jaws work well for capturing coyotes. Traps without
offset jaws may cause foot injuries and increase the risk
of escape. Conibear traps are not recommended because coyotes
may avoid them and non-target animals can be killed. Coyotes
usually do not enter cage or box traps.
A trap
contains several major components (see Figure 1). The trap
jaws restrain the foot of a captured animal. The springs provide
tension on the jaws and hold them shut. A trap pan and dog
serve as the trigger mechanism. When an animal places its
foot on the pan, it releases the dog and the jaws close.
A 3/8-inch to 1/2-inch diameter stake that is 20 inches to
28 inches long holds the coyote at the capture site. Commercial
stakes (available from some trap suppliers) with a welded
bead or enlargement about 4 inches from the bottom are more
difficult for coyotes to pull out of the ground. If the ground
is too rocky to use a stake and if trees and shrubs are abundant,
attach a drag (Figure 2) to a 5-foot or longer chain to restrain
the coyote. Stakes or drags are attached to the trap with
a cold-shut chain-repair link, a chain, and swivels that prevent
the chain from twisting together while restraining the coyote.
Boil
new traps in a lye or a strong detergent solution, or place
in a dishwasher to remove oil. Then place the traps in a moist
area outdoors until they develop a light film of rust that
allows a dye to adhere to the traps. Next, boil the traps
for about one hour in a commercial trap dyeing or walnut/hickory
hull solution, or dip the traps in a liquid trap dye. Remove
thick rust from old traps with a wire brush before dyeing.
Then dip traps in a commercial trap wax to prevent rusting.
ZRC,
a cold-galvanizing solution, can be sprayed on traps after
removing oil to protect them from rusting. The coating lasts
longer than dye and wax and eliminates boiling traps. ZRC
is manufactured by ZRC Products Company, Quincy, Massachusetts,
and is available from some trap suppliers.
To increase
capture success, set traps near coyote tracks or droppings
that indicate areas of frequent use. On the open plains, good
locations to set traps are near fence lines, tree rows, edges
between two habitat or crop types, livestock trails, pasture
gates, pond dams, waterways, draws, and knolls. In mountainous
areas, good locations are near livestock trails, pasture gates,
fence lines, and saddles between mountains. A good place to
set traps is at least 50 yards away from livestock carcasses.
Place traps near and on the prevailing upwind side of the
trail, or other paths that coyotes follow. An attractant is
placed on the prevailing upwind side of the trap so that the
wind blows the scent to the coyote as it moves through the
area. The coyote frequently moves upwind to investigate the
source of the smell and encounters the trap.
Set
traps on level ground, in fairly open areas near a clump of
grass, cow chip, bone, rodent hole, or other fairly prominent
object that coyotes are likely to investigate. Avoid setting
traps where people can readily view captured animals. Place
the location and number of traps on a map so all animals and
traps can be found.
Once
the trap site is chosen, place a 2-foot by 3-foot plastic
or canvas kneeling pad on the ground near the trap site. Wear
clean leather or cloth gloves to reduce human odor on the
traps and to protect from sand burs and stickers. Set the
trap so the pan is about 9 inches from the object on which
the scent is placed. Dig a hole to accommodate the trap so
there is a slight depression over the trap pan after it is
covered with 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch of sifted soil. Dig the
hole with a trowel, trapping hammer or a hatchet. Remove the
loose soil and place it on the kneeling cloth.
Set
the trap by forcing the springs downward, opening the jaws,
placing the dog over jaw and securing it under the trap pan.
Release the springs. Adjust the pan so it is level with the
top of the jaws and travels only a short distance before it
releases the dog and jaws. If this is not done, the trap dog
post may need to be bent. On a long-spring trap, position
the springs toward the dog-side of the trap so that the jaws
set flat.
Drive
the stake deep enough in the bottom of the hole so that the
trap does not rest on it. In loose soil, such as sand, it
may be necessary to cross-stake the trap with two stakes driven
at 60 to 90 degree angles and with the stakes attached at
the top.
Place
the chain under the trap or along the trap springs. Put the
trap in the hole and apply downward pressure while moving
it back and forth so it sits firmly. Lift the "free" jaw of
the trap up to place a pan cover over the pan. The pan cover,
made from plastic bags, denim, or canvas, prevents soil from
filtering under the pan and allows the trap to spring. The
cover should be as wide as the diameter of the jaws and about
2 inches to 3 inches longer than the width. Make a 2-inch
to 3-inch cut in the center of the long side of the pan cover.
Place the cover over the pan from under the free jaw to protect
fingers if the trap accidentally fires. Place the cut portion
of the cover around the trap dog so that the dog can move
without binding on the pan cover (Plate 1). Stretch the cover
firmly, secure in place, and cover with sifted soil. Place
a 2 1/2-inch square piece of fiberglass insulation below the
pan instead of using a pan cover. However, in moist soil and
cold weather, the insulation may freeze and prevent the trap
from springing.
Put
the soil removed from the hole for the trap bed in a commercial
or home-made 8 inches by 10 inches by 2-inch deep wooden sifter
with 1/4 inch or smaller hail screen attached to the bottom.
Sift the soil, preferably dry and fine, over the trap and
chain. The sifter prevents stones, sticks, and clods from
falling on the trap and possibly keep the jaws from closing.
Pack the sifted soil along the outside of the jaws and smooth
over the trap with a brush or trowel. Brush out all tracks
and discard excess soil at least 10 feet away.
Place
small twigs or a few marble-sized stones around the trap just
outside the jaws to guide the coyote's foot onto the pan.
Crush some fine grass and lightly drop over the trap so the
area looks natural.
For
a lure, place about 10 drops of coyote urine or a commercial
lure on a clump of grass 9 inches behind the trap pan. Place
the urine about 10 inches above the ground and the lure a
few inches above the ground.
After
a coyote is captured, reset the trap in the same location
or move next to the disturbed area. Traps usually are set
for several days before moving them to new locations.
Follow
the above procedure to make a dirt hole set, except dig a
2-inch to 3-inch diameter and 8-inch deep hole between the
covered trap and clump of grass. Dig the hole at a 45-degree
angle from upright and slanted toward the trap. Place the
soil outside the hole to form a "V" with the point of the
V at the hole and extend along the outside of the jaws to
guide the coyote's foot onto the pan. The hole usually is
dug 6 inches to 9 inches from the trap pan. Place the trap
closer to a more upright hole. Put a food-type bait or lure
in the hole and cover with grass. Place a few drops of coyote
urine or lure on the grass backing. The hole and lures serve
as attractants to coyotes.
To prevent
traps from freezing in the ground, cover them with peat moss,
dry manure, dry soil, or three or four parts of dry soil mixed
with one part of potassium chloride, calcium chloride, or
pickling salt. If a salt is used, wax the traps or treat with
ZRC to reduce rusting. Add a thin layer of dry soil to prevent
the peat moss from blowing away, and to make the area look
natural.
Avoid
contaminating the trap and site with unnecessary odors, such
as cigarette butts, because they may cause coyotes to avoid
the traps. Wear clean clothes and avoid wearing shoes or gloves
that smell like gasoline or grease. During warm months, set
traps during the morning or evening when the trapper is least
likely to perspire. Avoid getting lures and other attractants
on gloves and tools used for trapping. If these odors are
transferred to the traps or trap beds, coyotes may uncover
them. Check traps from a distance to minimize the amount of
human odor at the trap site.
Apply
commercial lures or coyote urine on a clump of grass, bone,
or cow chip near the trap once or twice a week. Generally,
Carman's Canine Call, W-U lure (trimethylammonium decanoate
plus sulfides), SFE (abbreviated synthetic fermented egg),
and O'Gorman's Long Distance Call lure are the most effective
attractants.
Legal
wildlife that can be used as bait in Colorado are jackrabbits,
the carcass or parts of skinned furbearers, carp, shad, and
suckers (except the razorback sucker), and the non-edible
portions of legally obtained game mammals, birds and sport
fish. Fetid or fresh parts of jackrabbits, beaver, and muskrats
can be placed in a dirt hole and covered with grass to attract
coyotes.
To capture
coyotes that avoid or dig up traps, clean traps, use different
attractants and wear clean gloves and rubber boots to reduce
odors at the trap site. If a coyote is consistently digging
up a trap, a second trap set about 1 foot downwind from the
first trap and in line with the coyote's usual approach will
frequently capture the coyote.
- To
significantly improve trap selectivity, increase the pan
tension, which increases the weight required to spring traps.
Traps with increased pan tension eliminate the capture of
92 percent to 100 percent of smaller animals such as kit
foxes, swift foxes, gray foxes, striped skunks, opossums,
and black-tailed jack rabbits. Unmodified traps exclude
only 6 percent of the non-target animals.
Pans are held on most traps with screws that tighten to
create 4 pounds to 5 pounds of resistance. A leaf spring,
manufactured by Woodstream Corporation, can be secured
below the pan to increase the pan tension on long-spring
traps. A pan tension device can be made from a 1/2-inch-wide
metal tape measure that is cut and placed over the springs
and below the pan of a long-spring trap. Pan tension devices
may be slightly less efficient for capturing coyotes.
However, the reduction in small animals captured will
leave more traps available for capturing coyotes.
- Carefully
select sites where traps are set, such as outside pastures,
to avoid capturing livestock and other non-target animals.
- Avoid
setting traps within 50 yards of animal carcasses to prevent
capturing eagles, crows, magpies, vultures and other non-target
animals. The use of ground set leghold traps is prohibited
within 30 feet of the exposed carcass (meat and internal
organs of game wildlife and domestic animals, but does not
include bones, hides, or other non-edible parts) of any
game wildlife or domestic animals, except for traps equipped
with pan-tension devices and used to take animals causing
damage to livestock. Scent post or dirt hole sets placed
upwind and at least 50 yards from a carcass are successful
for capturing coyotes but generally avoid non-target animals.
- Coyotes
often place their front feet about 9 inches from the scent
when investigating it. Placing the trap pan 9 inches from
the scent improves the chance of capturing coyotes and minimizes
the chance of trapping smaller canids such as fox, which
usually step closer than 9 inches to the lures.
- Cover
baits placed in dirt holes with grass or leaves instead
of exposing to avoid capturing birds that are attracted
by sight.
- Avoid
setting traps in urban areas, near residences, or other
areas where dogs and cats frequent.
- Use
padded foot-hold traps if there is even a slight possibility
of capturing pets.
- Avoid
setting traps in trails where tracks indicate other wildlife
are traveling. Attract coyotes away from trails with baits
and lures. On public lands, it is illegal to use leghold
traps on, or within 50 feet of either side of, officially
designated and marked trails that start in or immediately
adjacent to any municipality for a distance of 500 yards,
unless such traps are placed in the water or off the ground.
On all other public lands, the use of leghold traps is prohibited
on or within 15 feet of either side of officially designated
and marked trails unless such traps are placed in water
or off the ground.
- Avoid
setting traps near fences where dogs might be captured and
entangled in the fence.
- Check
traps regularly. Within any city limits or any areas annexed
into a city, Colorado Division of Wildlife requires that
traps be checked at least once daily unless mechanical means
are provided to kill trapped animals. In all other areas,
traps must be visually checked at least once every other
day unless mechanical means are provided to kill trapped
animals. Checking traps every 24 hours (early morning) minimizes
the amount of time animals are left in traps, allows non-target
animals to be released unharmed and for more coyotes to
be captured.
- Avoid
setting traps where hunting dogs might be captured during
waterfowl and upland game bird seasons. It is illegal to
set traps with a jaw spread of 5 1/8 inches or greater from
October 1 through the last day of the upland game bird season
on many state of Colorado wildlife areas.
- Number
3 or larger foot-hold traps are prohibited along portions
of the Gunnison, Piedra, San Juan, and Dolores Rivers and
some of their tributaries to protect river otters.
- Remove
all traps at the end of the season or when they cannot be
checked regularly.
If furbearers
or other wildlife are captured out of season or if trapping
is not a legal method of harvesting, the wildlife cannot be
killed and must be released immediately. Report injured animals,
such as raptors, to the Colorado Division of Wildlife and
if needed, take to a rehabilitation center. If non-target
wildlife are found dead in a trap, deliver the entire carcass
to the Colorado Division of Wildlife within five days.
Trappers
should always carry a catch pole or slotted panel to release
non-target animals. Place the cable loop of the catch pole
over the animal's head and draw the cable snug around the
neck. Force the animal's head away from the trap and release
the animal's foot by stepping on the springs of the trap.
Loosen the loop to release the animal. The trapper may need
to stand in the box of a pickup when releasing an aggressive
dog to avoid being bitten.
If a
catch pole is not available, release non-target animals after
covering with a blanket, canvas or coat; pinning the head
to the ground with a forked limb; or placing a heavy board
or limb over the animal and securing it to the ground.
Padded
foot-hold traps (Soft-CatchTM), developed by the
Woodstream Corporation, significantly reduce foot injuries
to captured animals. In recent studies, the latest version
of padded traps were as efficient as standard traps for capturing
coyotes if the padded traps were set properly. To properly
set: 1) adjust the pan tension to 2 pounds or more, 2) remove
lateral movement (creep) in the dog and pan by placing the
dog in the pan notch, lift the pan all the way up until pressure
is applied, and move the pan downward until a fine trigger
is achieved, and 3) dig the trap bed so the bottom of the
unrestrained jaw of the trap is about 1/2 inch higher than
the other jaw before covering with soil.
Preliminary
tests indicate that laminated traps (traps modified to increase
jaw thickness) significantly reduce foot injuries to captured
coyotes. The jaws are thickened by welding number 9 wire or
strap iron to the outside of the jaws, increasing the surface
area that contacts the foot. The contact area should be smooth
and the edges of the jaws rounded.
To minimize
the chances of escape and to increase humaneness, quickly
shoot captured coyotes between the eyes with a .22 long rifle.
Properly transport and dispose of carcasses so they do not
offend others.
A small
game or furbearer license is required to trap coyotes. However,
property owners, members of their families, lessees or their
agents do not need a license to trap coyotes when protecting
their property. Anyone born after January 1, 1949 must complete
a Colorado Division of Wildlife Hunter Education Course before
they can purchase a license to trap.
Disclaimer
and Reproduction Information: Information in NASD does not
represent NIOSH policy. Information included in NASD appears
by permission of the author and/or copyright holder. More
NASD Review: 04/2002
Service
in Action 6.518, Cooperative Extension, Colorado State University.
Revised August 1993. Copyright 1993. For more information,
contact your county Cooperative Extension office.
Colorado State University Cooperative Extension wildlife
specialist and associate professor, fishery and wildlife
biology.
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