The reason for the setting aside of this area was the presence in the area of some 30 "mineral" springs, the water from which contains sulphur, bromide, salt, and other minerals, which are believed to possess medicinal qualities.
For many generations the sulphur springs of the Chickasaw Nation had been known for their reputed healing qualities. It had long been the custom for families to come from considerable distances on horseback and in wagons and camp near the springs, in order to drink the water. In course of time a primitive town, known as Sulphur Springs, grew up near a group of springs known since as Pavilion Springs at the mouth of Sulphur Creek, now known as Travertine Creek. This town was still in existence at the time of my first visit to the locality in July, 1901. At this time, in company with Joseph A. Taff, of the United States Geological Survey, I spent a week riding over the country making a preliminary survey looking toward the setting aside of the area for a National Park.
After the establishment of the National Park, the old town of Sulphur Springs was abandoned, and when the present boundaries of the park had been established the present town of Sulphur, now county seat of Murray County, grew up.
In July 1906, on request of Superintendent Joseph F. Swords, I visited the park and made an examination of the various springs and submitted a report, dated August 15, 1906, to Secretary of the Interior E.A. Hitchcock. Copies of this report are on file in the Regional Office and at Platt National Park. In this report I set forth the approximate amount of flow of the various springs, the character of the water in each, and the conditions of the springs as of that date. I also made certain recommendations regarding proposed improvements of each spring.
In this report I say: "In the town of Sulphur, four wells have been drilled to a depth of between 450 and 500 feet in which artesian water has been secured. These wells are said to flow 200,000 gallons each per day."
I also say: "From a study of the log of one of these wells, it appears that the artesian water is derived from the upper part of the Simpson sandstone. It is very probable that the water of the springs is derived from the same source."
This early was recognized the relation between the water from the mineral springs and that from the artesian wells.
As the years have passed, other wells have been drilled in the town of Sulphur, chiefly to supply water for mineral baths and for swimming pools, so that to date more than 30 wells have been drilled. The exact number is not known. The custom has usually been to turn the wells loose and permit them to flow at full capacity, although some of the wells have been "valved in" and the flow reduced. An estimate furnished me by the Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce in 1937, referred to later in this report, indicated that at that time 16 wells were flowing approximately 28,800,000 gallons of water per day, practically all of which ran to waste.
For many years geologists in Oklahoma and elsewhere have watched this unrestricted waste of water from the artesian wells at Sulphur with growing concern. Remembering the history of other artesian basins throughout the world, these geologists believed that in all probability it was only a question of time until the water in the Sulphur artesian basin would begin to fail. On two different occasions the State Geologist of Oklahoma, bearing these conditions in mind, has prepared and had introduced into the State Legislature a bill which, if enacted into law, would have regulated the flow of water in artesian wells throughout the State. Both bills died in committee.
Partly on account of the drought of the past three years, the matter has been brought to a head. In September 1938, Buffalo and Antelope Springs at the head of Travertine Creek ceased to flow. A suggestion was made through the Secretary of the Sulphur Chamber of Commerce to the Park Superintendent that a well, or wells, be drilled near Buffalo and Antelope Springs "near the head of Travertine Creek" in the hope of securing artesian water. This water was to be turned into the creek in order to start the flow. This proposal was submitted to the Washington Office of the National Park Service and was disapproved.
Some correspondence ensued, culminating in a memorandum to the Regional Director, dated October 23, 1939, signed by Chief, Naturalist Division, Trager suggesting that the Regional Geologist undertake a study of the water situation at Platt National Park and at Sulphur, and assume the responsibility for coordinating the work of those contributing to the solution of the problem. It was stated in this memorandum that Mr. Stuart L. Schoff, of the Ground Water Division of the United States Geological Survey, temporarily located in Norman, Oklahoma, could be secured to assist in solving the problem.
Mr. Trager's letter contained the following suggestions for guidance in the prosecution of the investigations:
"As we see it, the problem will consist of the following six main
projects:
After Mr. Schoff's departure I returned to Sulphur and remained until November 15, studying particularly the artesian wells in the town of Sulphur, and checking into reports of former superintendents of Platt National Park. I also endeavored to secure from old-timers as much information as possible relative to the flow of the springs, particularly of Buffalo and Antelope. Before leaving I secured the promise of Chief Clerk Stephens of Platt National Park, who was raised at Sulphur and is conversant with local conditions, to endeavor to ascertain the number of artesian wells that have been drilled, and the present capacity of the wells now flowing. These data were submitted by Mr. Stephens in a letter dated December 1, 1939.
Superintendent Branch, Chief Clerk Stephens, and Secretary Keith of the Chamber of Commerce were all extremely cooperative and gave all possible assistance.
(available as photostat copy only)