MAZES
AND MARVELS OF WIND CAVE
A NATIONAL RESERVATION
HOT SPRINGS, SOUTH DAKOTA
BY
E.C. HORN, GRAND ISLAND, NEBRASKA
COPYRIGHTED 1901
THIRD EDITION
PRICE 25 CENTS
HOT
SPRINGS, SOUTH DAKOTA
THE VESTIBULE TO WIND CAVE
"There
lies a Vale in Ida, lovelier
Than all the valleys of Ionian hills."
Tennyson's poetic
eulogy on the Vale of Ida lacks in power to depict the beauty of
the lower Black Hills as evidenced in the Vale of Minnekahta, ensconced
within which, in the shape of the letter S, is Hot Springs, the
"Carlsbad of America."
The city of
Hot Springs, with a permanent population of more than 2,000, its
numerous mineral springs, delightful, invigorating climate, beautiful,
entrancing scenery, and palatial hotels and sanitariums, attracts
multiplied thousands annually. Well might it be called the "Health
Seeker's Mecca" of two hemispheres, for it acts as a magnet,
drawing its visitors from every clime.
The Burlington
and Northwestern railroad companies have built a costly union depot
of the most modern type within one block of the leading hotels,
and show their patrons every courtesy.
Besides all
the excellencies noted, Hot Springs takes a high round on the ladder
of fame as the vestibule to one of Nature's greatest wonders, Wind
Cave. If Hot Springs is but the vestibule, who can divine what Wind
Cave ought to be? Let us see.
HOT
SPRINGS TO WIND CAVE
ROMANTIC DRIVE—BATTLE
MOUNTAIN—BATTLE BETWEEN THE CHEYENNE AND SIOUX—VIEW
OF BUFFALO GAP—HARNEY PEAK—LUNCH AT CAVE
Arriving in
Hot Springs via either route, the tourist soon finds himself registered
at the hotel of his choice and ready for the twelve-mile drive to
the Cave. Soon we are out of the city, scaling the heights. To our
right, little more than sling-shot distance stands Battle Mountain,
as a Titan guarding the springs. Passing west of this mountain we
remember that we are riding over ground that witnessed many a struggle
between hostile Indian tribes for possession of the springs, which
send forth health-giving waters as a panacea for all diseases. From
the day the first spring was discovered by an Indian until the Black
Hills country was wrested from the Indians by treaty, this enchanting
vale was a bone of contention. Indian history, tinctured with tradition,
pictures the Cheyennes as victors, routing the Crows and all others
who chose to cross tomahawks with them. Here the Cheyennes flourished,
fearing no rival. But as the European meteor flashed out at Waterloo,
just so the Cheyennes met their match on Battle Mountain. That brawny
tribe had exulted too long. Victory had encamped with them, had
perched upon their wigwam banners until the Cheyennes believed the
Great Spirit had made them invisible. Such self-exaltation was displeasing
to the Sioux. Hence after a war dance and a great council, the Sioux
sallied forth from their distant shrine with tomahawk, eagle feathers,
and war paint to dislodge the Cheyennes from their stronghold amid
the most splendid "Happy Hunting Grounds" of the Dakotas.
The Sioux had long heard of the land of Minnekahta (Minne-water;
kahta-hot) and had longed for its possession. Now that a start was
made, that famous land was to be theirs or they would never return,
thinking there could be no better place to ascend to the "Great
Father" than from the heights rising skyward alongside far-famed
Minnekahta.
Long before
the Sioux arrived, Cheyenne scouts brought word of the Sioux advance.
The Cheyennes were frenzied, and donned their war paint, feathers,
and tomahawk and made ready to protect their homes, their wigwams,
from the vengeance of the invaders. Ascending Battle Mountain the
Cheyennes awaited the enemy. The resolute Sioux wavered not, but
faced rocks, hurled as if by powerful enginery of war. Arrows filled
the air. The savage war-whoop resounded from hilltop to hilltop,
and after a final onslaught the Cheyennes were overpowered, outwitted,
outfought, and fled in consternation, leaving the dead on the slope,
"Clutching the greensward, Seeming in death to hold back from
his foe the land of his fathers," and the guardian of Minnekahta,
Battle Mountain, was left in possession of the Sioux. This victory
secured for the Sioux the possession of the springs and Fall River
until the treaty of '76 was consummated, when the Cheyennes were
transferred to their reservation by the government.
Leaving Battle
Mountain in the rear, the carriage advances bringing to the eye
scenic landscape that beggars description. To the left is a beautiful
slope resembling Missionary Ridge; to the right Buffalo Gap, twelve
miles away, is pointed out by the driver. Through the gap thousands
of buffalo annually found their way from the Nebraska and Dakota
prairies to winter range and protection during the long winter months.
It was through this gap also that the Indians drove available herds
for the round-up. Looking away to the eastward through Buffalo Gap,
the tourist observes the Bad Lands looming up in their nakedness
eighty miles away.
When little
more than half way to the Cave an elevation of 4,225 feet is reached,
being nearly 1,000 feet above Hot Springs, the starting point. Here
the eye feasts as it wanders at will over the rugged expanse, high
over Custer and Sylvan Lake (the gem of the Hills) to Harney Peak,
an elevation of 8,200 feet, the highest point in the Black Hills.
To say the
least, the trip from Hot Springs to Wind Cave is worth a journey
across the continent, or from the heart of Europe, and costs only
$1.50 for the round trip, including guides through the Cave, lights,
equipment, etc.
Passing over
the backbone of the hills, where deer, coyote, and prairie chickens
are often seen, we descend by a circuitous route through a prairie
dog town to the hotel at the Cave.
WIND
CAVE—HISTORICAL, SCIENTIFIC, DESCRIPTIVE
DISCOVERY—100
MILES AND 3,000 CHAMBERS EXPORED—THE THREE TRAVELED ROUTES—PREVAILING
FORMATIONS—PARALLELING CREVICES—OVERLYING TIERS—POSTULATES—TEMPERATURE
Wind Cave was
discovered by a cowboy in 1881. While riding through the gulch his
hat was blown high in the air. Descending to discern the cause,
he observed a strong out-going current from an oval shaped hole
in the rock, measuring about eight by ten inches. He returned the
following day with his friends, who, Thomas-like, refused to believe
such a mammoth wind story without personal verification. Alighting
from his horse to show his friends what the wind would do for his
hat, he was astonished to have his hat snatched from his hands by
an ingoing current and carried through the orifice with a swish
to-he knew not where.
No other opening
being discovered, an entrance was effected at this point by blasting,
but only for a few feet, as those engaged in the work believed further
work to be useless. The Cave remained untouched for about nine years,
visited, however, by men desirous of accounting for the windy phenomena.
But in 1890, work was begun in earnest by men bent on finding minerals
worth developing. Their labors were not in vain, for they unlocked
one of the greatest geological wonders discovered in the nineteenth
century.
The guides
affirm that 100 miles of passages have been explored, and the end
remains apparently as mysterious as when the first mile was completed.
Of the 3,000 chambers discovered, the largest covers three acres
and is known as the "Fair Grounds," being one acre larger
than the largest room in Mammoth Cave, Kentucky.
Three routes have been opened to tourists at enormous expense. The
three routes, the Garden of Eden, Fair Grounds, and Pearly Gates,
now open, can be traveled with safety and at a minimum expenditure
of energy. There being an excess of oxygen in the Cave, the weary
traveler is invigorated by visiting the Cave and reveling in its
mazes and marvels.
The prevailing
formations in the Cave are the box-work, popcorn, and frostwork.
The Cave being so unlike all other caves and its formations so different,
geological names are wanting by which to designate the surprises
observed at each step. It is like other caves, however, in possessing
geodes, calcite crystals, quartz, stalagmites, stalactites, and
mineral-bearing rock.
The Cave, so
far as known, has twelve paralleling crevices or fissures ranging
from 50 to 300 feet apart. These paralleling crevices are connected
by side passages with no regularity in occurrence.
Besides the
paralleling crevices there are, to complicate matters, eight tiers
of chambers overlying one another. Hence the Cave presents to imagination
the appearance of a building eight stories high and wide enough
for twelve arcades with rooms on either side. It is also likened
unto a colossal sponge, and to one who has visited the underground
giant the comparison is an apt one.
The different
geological formations found in the eight tiers are a study within
themselves. In the upper tier stalagmites arise from the floor;
some are almost ready to unite in a bond of fellowship with stalactites
which for countless years have been on the downward journey from
the ceiling. Some there are which formed a union thousands of years
ago and are still growing.
The frost work
is the distinguishing formation of the second tier. Here crystals
of the purest white abound in needle-like form, some attaining a
length of two inches.
In the third tier box-work appears in its most delicate form, becoming
more transparent in the fourth tier.
Pop corn appears
in the fifth tier and continues through the sixth and seventh. Crystals
of various colors are more plentiful in the sixth and seventh tiers.
In the eighth tier the box work is heavier and darker, approaching
indigo blue in color. Many of the beautiful decorations are accounted
for by the action of water quite heavily charged with silica and
carbonate of lime. The formations are thicker in the lowest tier
because that tier was longest submerged, and the receding water
held in solution more solid substance. The box-work formation is
an unsolved, but probably not an unsolvable, problem. Various reasons
may be advanced in accounting for it.
If the limestone had been cracked in every direction, forming every
conceivable geometrical figure, and afterwards the cracks filled
with calcite, it is not impossible that hot water might have been
forced in by geyser action to disintegrate the rock, clay, etc.,
leaving the box-work formation. Later the decorations might have
been added by water overcharged with calcite. The nucleus of the
box-work is dolomite.
The temperature
of the Cave is about forty-five degrees the year round. A peculiarity
of the temperature is that in descending 500 feet there is a change
of only about one degree, where a change of one degree for each
hundred feet is expected in descending. Only one opening to the
Cave is known. The Cave inhales and exhales in compliance with the
changes in the barometer. Occasionally the outgoing current rumbles
like a distant thunder storm; at other times no agitation is perceptible.
Students of geology frequently visit Wind Cave for the purpose of
studying it in connection with the geysers of Yellowstone Park.
Eminent authorities assert that a knowledge of either is not complete
without visiting the other.
THE
GARDEN OF EDEN ROUTE
SHORTEST ROUTE,
TIME ABOUT TWO HOURS—GUIDES-REGISTER—FIFTY-NINE POINTS
OF INTEREST.
This is the
shortest route, requiring about two hours' time, and is intended
for those in a hurry, having only a limited amount of time at their
disposal, and for old people, cripples, etc., desiring a taste of
the underground marvel.
Come with me
and let us take the routes as I took them. I visited the Cave, day
after day, to get acquainted with its mazes and marvels as far as
it is possible without learning it sufficiently to avoid having
a guide.
Having donned
our caps, we set out for the cabin covering the entrance, only a
few hundred yards from the hotel. Here we register our names, so
that should any accident happen to us our home address may be easily
ascertained. Accidents do not happen because everyone is glad to
follow the guide's instructions, but this precaution is taken, recognizing
that a human being, an intricate machine, is liable to cease business
at the old stand at any moment. Not having time to read the register
to learn what illustrious people have made the trip before us, we
register quickly, assured that all the good, bad, and indifferent
have returned to the civilized world safely, which braces us for
the trip of a lifetime, going from the known to the unknown, from
daylight to the densest darkness.
Here the guide
hands to each person a candle, requesting all to follow the guide
and fear no danger. The candles being unlighted, a few hasten to
light theirs even before descending the steps, only to have them
extinguished by the strong current. Having descended a short distance,
we light our candles and proceed with less fear.
Just 155 feet below the entrance we reach an apartment called BRIDE'S
CHAMBER. Here a plucky girl was married to the one she loved, having
doubtless promised her painstaking mother that she would not marry
the young man in question on the face of the earth. This procedure
would enable one in such a predicament to keep both promises by
straining the truth almost to the limit.
We next enter
a small chamber of the cabin type where we are shown LINCOLN'S FIREPLACE.
The kindling is placed in position ready for a fire to warm the
Rail-splitter when he comes in from the forest. The pine knot is
placed to give proper light for his nocturnal study, preparing him
for the presidency.
Passing the
fireplace, we notice a PRAIRIE DOG and MOUND. The little chirper
stands ready to dive from our view, but moves not an inch, for his
petrified state long ago produced locomotor ataxia.
Our attention
is next called to a freak of nature not seen except in Wind Cave.
Burning a ribbon of magnesium, the guide directs our attention to
the phenomenon, and umbrellas are wished for as we behold the unexpected
PETRIFIED CLOUDS. It is needless to state that the unexpected may
always be expected while touring in a region of perpetual surprise.
Looking overhead
we notice a myriad of SNOW BALLS, each adhering to the frescoed
rock as if lately driven to their rest by the recently liberated
school boy. This appearance produces a chilling sensation, but the
normal temperature returns when the deceived visitor learns that
the nearest snow is not less than two hundred miles away to the
northward and that what we see above us and around us are carbonate
of lime formations only. They appear so much like well formed snow
balls, however, that the very elect are deceived.
To avoid a
possible storm which threatens from the direction of the Petrified
Clouds, we hasten toward the CHURCH STEEPLE. Petrified objects galore
are pointed out by the guide, among them being a PETRIFIED WHIRLWIND.
One dusky son from a southern clime allowed his imagination to become
sufficiently elastic to conceive of a petrified bird singing a petrified
song.
Passing the
Church Steeple, we enter the POST OFFICE. Here mail addressed to
every clime is held as if awaiting claimants. The presence of box-work
resembling the typical post-office box gives this chamber its name.
Leaving this
medley of letters and cards we pass into ROE'S MISERY. Here an early
guide named Roe got stuck and had to be pulled out by means of a
rope.
The next chamber
is called RED HALL, the prevailing color being red. Here the visitor
is shown LIBERTY BELL, which is cracked just like the original at
Philadelphia. What formed it? is the usual question. No living man
knows, but it is supposed to be the work of a geyser spurting up
from the floor. Not far from Liberty Bell is a Wash Boiler, which
especially interests the ladies who are so fortunate as to see it.
Adjoining this hall is a chamber called the OLD MAID'S GROOTTO.
The next chamber is called the WHITE ROOM, and is as white as if
calsomined.
From the White
Room the visitor enters the OPERA HOUSE via HARD SCRABBLE AVE.
Overhead in
the Opera House is the PEANUT GALLERY. Professor Romaine, the renowned
violinist of Hungary, rendered several selections here and wrote
on the wall the words "Chopin's Nocturne," and beneath
it his autograph. He drilled the guide in pronouncing the entire
inscription, and cautioned the guide not to forget or vary the pronunciation
in the least on penalty of being haunted by the musician's ghost
as long as he guided visitors through that Opera House. Mispronunciation
was little less than barbarism to the trained ear of Professor Romaine.
The passage
way from the Opera House contains a miniature WORLD'S FAIR ADMINISTRATION
BUILDING and a PETRIFIED ALLIGATOR.
The next point
of interest is the DEVIL'S LOOKOUT standing 65 feet high. Here in
silence are two pigs, one having an ear of corn in his mouth as
if ready to run for a more congenial spot. A New York lady discovered
the two pigs, and remarked, "Isn't it perfectly wonderful that
I should be the first one to discover the pigs?" The guide
replied, "It is easy for people who have been in the habit
of seeing such animals to find their likeness here in the Cave."
He was saved from her wrath by being the only one who knew the route.
We next pass
SOUNDING ROCK or HIS SATANIC MAJESTY'S CALL and enter MILTON'S STUDY,
representing the room where he wrote "PARADISE LOST".
Just beyond is the DEVIL'S KEY-HOLE and a DUTCH BAKE OVEN.
The next room
is named SAMPSON'S PALACE. It has a very high dome with box-work
edges and stalagmitic floor. In this palace is a formation known
as the QUEEN OF SHEBA'S HEAD DRESS. The drapery was a premonition
of modern Parisian styles.
A party of
foreign tourists, observing the counterpart of the Alps mountains
beyond Sampson's Palace gave to the canyon the name SWISS SCENERY.
A chamois stands upon a lofty craggy rock ready for a leap, while
lower down on the right is a LOAF OF RYE BREAD and a SWISS CHEESE.
Close by is
a water formation representing spilt milk and is named the MILKMAID'S
MISHAP.
Following our
guide, we enter the QUEEN'S DRAWING ROOM, a chamber fearfully and
wonderfully made. Here tapestries, draperies, and box-work greet
one on all sides.
Advancing a
short distance we look above and behold the NEW YORK ELEVATED R
& R. The cars are not running owing to a strike.
Following the
direction of the track, we enter the M. E. CHURCH, which was dedicated
by Dr. Hancher, ex-president of Black Hills College.
Close by the
M. E. church is the DELSARTE TEMPLE, named by Professor Warman of
Chicago.
The guide leads
us on into the wildest, roughest, and most rugged chamber, known
as the GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
We then make
a graceful prolonged bow and file under the ARCH OF POLITENESS into
LENA'S ARBOR, then on into BISHOP FOWLER'S RETREAT, where our attention
is called to the beautiful grotto named LOVER'S RETREAT. Here a
youthful couple, having lingered behind and being lost from the
party, were found by the guide with clasped hands and in the meshes
of Cupid. The midnight darkness of that subterranean world has no
terrors for Cupid.
Advancing through
POP CORN ALLEY we enter ODD FELLOW'S HALL. Here we observe the ALL
SEEING EYE, three links, two goats, and the canopy over the Noble
Grand. Music is provided from the MIDWAY PLAISANCE, producing the
unique Tom-tom.
On entering
the hall the wreck of the Spanish warship COLON attracts attention.
This specimen of Wind Cave novelty was named by Dr. Lentz of Brookings,
S.D. This wreck is 350 feet below the entrance, nearly two miles
from the starting point, and in the sixth tier of chambers. Nature,
thousands of years ago, anticipated our choice of colors for the
national ensign and indelibly frescoed the avenue leading from Odd
Fellow's Hall with red, white, and blue. This avenue is called TURTLE
PASS because it shelters a large turtle about five feet in length
by three in width. This formation evidently was completed weary
years before Columbus dreamed of a land to the westward. At this
point our rear guide was detached to return to the hotel with a
man who was complaining of having heart trouble on the right side.
His chief trouble was an oversupply of quartz (quarts) of a sparkling
variety not found nearer than twelve miles of the Cave.
Turtle Pass
leads to the CROSS ROADS, where the route divides. Here is NASBY'S
DOME, beyond which is the BRECKENRIDGE GALLERY and BULEIGH HEIGHTS,
the latter having a dome ninety feet in height.
We are next
ushered into the STONE QUARRIES, where one imagines prehistoric
giants must once have held sway, but departed since to fields of
labor where the rocks are less gigantic.
Here the visitor
is shown the GARDEN WALL upon which rests the GIANT'S COFFIN. Strange
sensations creep over one as he studies his surroundings, fearful
lest he be intruding upon the subterranean retreat or mausoleum
of some giant race. The coffin lid can be raised and those sufficiently
lion-hearted may look within, observing the GHOST OF A LOST OPPORTUNITY.
Leaving this
reminder of mortality, the tourist passes through BISHOP'S GAZE,
which has a dome towering 110 feet high, and enters G. A. R. HALL.
This hall was dedicated in June, 1899, during the soldiers' reunion
at Hot Springs, ninety-six old soldiers being present at the dedicatory
services. A monument was erected upon an eminence within the hall
to the memory of the heroic dead who wore the blue, but are now
sleeping the sleep of the departed patriots. The committee requested
that every old soldier visiting the Cave leave his name, company,
and regimental designation at the foot of the monument. The G. A.
R. Hall is well named. About it are natural fortifications more
durable than were constructed upon many a battlefield. Overhead
are calcite formations representing breastworks, stockades, etc.,
the handiwork of nature's creation.
From the G.
A. R. Hall an avenue leads to WASHINGTON'S ARBOR and to ST. GEORGE'S
PALACE. Were these points of interest shorn of their beautifying
accessories, they might have been named THE GREAT LAUNDRIES, as
the box-work formations represent many a washing hanging upon lines
crossed and recrossed.
Another avenue
from the G. A. R. Hall leads to the CLIFF CHAMBER'S DELIGHT, sixty
feet high, via FAT WOMAN'S MISERY. A less difficult route has been
opened, so that only those desirous of following the old path submit
to the crawling process.
Our path leads to the EASTERN STAR ROOM, where chocolate caramels
tempt the eye and taste. A different route branches off from each
of the five points of the star.
Near the Eastern Star Room, is the W.C.T.U. Hall, dedicated in August
1892. Here the flag and white ribbon keep each other company in
perpetual night, the darkness being broken only by the candle and
magnesium light, the sunlight having never penetrated that abysmal
depth. The guide commands, "Lights out." All obey, because
we have learned to trust the guide implicitly, being willing to
try the impossible if the guide would so order. The lights go out
in an instant and concentrated darkness reigns. The darkness seems
more intense with the eyes opened than when closed. You imagine
you could cut that darkness into chunks with a knife and preserve
a cube of it in alcohol. A magnesium light flashes and the pall
of death suddenly changes to radiant light.
Fittingly connected
with this hall is SILENT LAKE, fed by a spring forty feet above
the level of the lake.
We next pass
under the CATHEDRAL DOME through KELLY'S SLIDE to the climax of
the route-THE GARDEN OF EDEN. The most beautiful frost-work and
box-work fringed with frost-work observed on the entire route is
seen here in limitless profusion. The candles are extinguished and
magnesium light is substituted. The tourists from Maine to California
are fairly bewildered, amazed, and stand speechless as they become
entranced, intoxicated by the unexpected profusion of elysian beauties.
Here adjectives are useless, vocabularies fail; the word painter
is confronted with a scene which defies description. The camera
is outwitted; nature triumphs. The many domes are doubtless of geyser
formation; and the depression named JACOB'S WELL represents the
remains of an extinct geyser as he struggled for existence. The
Garden of Eden covers half an acre; the floor is uneven and rugged;
the ceiling is a constantly changing panorama of beauty. On one
side is the LINNAEUS GROTTO, named by Professor Udden in honor of
the renowned Swedish botanist; on the other side is another grotto
containing stalagmites and stalactites in process of formation.
A GYPSUM MUMMY and RHINOCEROS JAWS are also attractions here.
Leaving the
Garden of Eden, but not forgetting it, we visit BEACON HEIGHTS and
CORK SCREW PATH. Half way down Cork Screw Path is the GLACIER. Passing
the Glacier, we reach the SPORTMAN'S DELIGHT, where a Goose hangs
suspended from the ceiling. How many years have passed with the
Goose unfed, uncared for, untouched, no man knows, but she is there
nevertheless, ready for flight should the Glacier overtake her.
The last point
on the Garden of Eden Route is DANTE'S INFERNO. It is dark, black,
deep, and a decidedly weird abode for the tormented, and without
excuse for its existence when compared with the Garden of Eden.
This route
should not be classed as inferior simply because it is the shortest.
Fifty-nine points of interest occupy one's undivided attention as
the trip is made. The Fair Grounds Route has sixty-four and the
Pearly Gates Route, seventy-six distinct attractions, giving a variety
likened unto a kaleidoscope effect. We return almost as we came,
laden, however, with a boundless supply of sublime, but strangely
unique memories. Much in our life's history will be forgotten, but
Wind Cave will never, can never, be obliterated from the scroll
of remembrance.
THE
FAIR GROUNDS ROUTE
THE MEDIUM AND
MOST FREQUENTLY TRAVELED ROUTE-TIME THREE HOURS—SIXTY FOUR
POINTS OF INTEREST
The route most
traveled is the Medium, or the Fair Grounds Route, requiring about
three hours time.
Those taking
the route get the benefit of the Garden of Eden Route as far as
the CROSS ROADS. (See Garden of Eden Route to Cross Roads.) From
here SUMNER AVENUE leads off a distance of 300 feet to the MASONIC
TEMPLE. The guide announces that we are just entering Wind Cave,
for here the rarest beauties begin. The first paralleling crevice
on the east is observed here.
From the Masonic
Temple we pass to the ELK'S RESORT, where an elk's head greets the
pilgrim. Close by is a SALVATION ARMY DRUM made in nature's shop
and just overhead is a square of IRISH POINT LACE formed by box-work
twenty feet on each side.
A passageway
to MCKINLEY MEMORIAL HALL has the Wind Cave Chimes. The hall itself
has the Chimes also, and not infrequently the visitors are enlivened
by music from nature's symphony.
Here the second
paralleling crevice appears, in which is seen NAPOLEON'S TOMB, said
to be an exact counterpart of the original.
Going from
McKinley Memorial Hall we enter WHITNEY AVENUE, which spans the
shadowy depths. The question, how deep are these depths? is answered
by, How long is eternity? This avenue leads to MONTE CRISTO PALACE,
which is in the seventh tier of chambers and on the 450 foot level,
and 750 feet below the surface, for here the survey shows that a
towering hill stands above holding Monte Cristo Palace firmly in
its place as if in a Zeus made vice. Here beautiful clusters of
dazzling silica crystals appear, flashing under the power of magnesium
light like the most brilliant of diamonds. In this place a trip
hammer blow is dealt to geology, which asserts that quartz and calcite
formations never appear on the same level. Here the unexpected appears
with quartz and calcite formations side by side as if they were
breaking no law.
Those who desire
to see the BLUE GROTTO on the Fair Grounds Route may do so by passing
under the BRIDGE OF SIGHS, traveling one-half mile through the Cave
as nature left it, crawling, creeping, sliding, climbing to the
heart's content. This is not done except for the benefit of the
few who care to pay the price in muscle and grit. If you do not
care to make the Blue Grotto, you cross over instead of under the
Bridge of Sighs and pass BOTTOMLESS PIT. It is called Bottomless
Pit because the bottom cannot be discerned, but if your Sunday school
teacher should ask you, just tell her the tapeline stops singing
at the ninety-foot mark. Mammoth Cave has a depression seventy feet
deep named the Bottomless Pit. Wind Cave is just twenty feet nearer
the truth than its competitor in this particular.
Beyond the
Bottomless Pit we enter GRECIAN BEND and bow very low whether we
like it or not till we reach the ASSEMBLY ROOM. Six routes assemble
here: one leads to Pearly Gates, one to Fair Grounds, the others
being uncomfortable for the tourist who is less surefooted than
the mountain goat.
The PALACE
FIREPLACE was found here by Mrs. Markham of Sioux Falls. The CLIFF
HOUSE of the Pacific Coast is an object of interest: the one in
the Cave, being far removed from the vandal's hand, is undisturbed
by the relic hunter.
An avenue seventy-five
feet in length leads from the Assemble Room to the MOUND BUILDERS'
REST.
We next pass
a dreary, forsaken waste called the Bad Lands, thus named from their
likeness to the Bad Lands as seen from Battle Mountain, stretching
away toward the regions of perpetual snow.
Passing the
Bad Lands we enter the TENNIS COURT, where perfect box-work forms
a tennis net. We defer playing a game lest our candles burn out
and leave us groping in Egyptian darkness. But our fears are allayed
when informed that the guide has a large supply of matches and candles,
sufficient to make the trip twice. A dear experience taught the
guides to carry an ample supply of lighting material. Once the guide
had all lights extinguished in order to secure a certain effect
with magnesium, when he found himself lightless and matchless. His
only alternative was to find the entrance which he did by falling
upon the floor and crawling till daylight signaled victory. Living
practically in the Cave for years, the guides know the Cave like
the multiplication table. As they pilot you through, they explain
the Cave in a manner which commands your admiration, causing you
to remark that such efficiency is worthy of generous remuneration.
Our next point
of interest is the A.O.U.W. HALL, dedicated in May, 1900, by the
Grand Lodge of South Dakota. This half has the GHOST OF SHE, and
it so excited a colored visitor once that he endeavored to go straight
up in order to avoid meeting this mysterious apparition formed of
solid rock and draped in white. In this hall is a PUNCH BOWL with
the bottom punched out.
Passing the
WORKMAN HALL we enter the DEGREE OF HONOR HALL, where the sheep
is on duty instead of the goat. This formation is the most perfect
of all representing animals formed in the Cave.
The next point
of interest is JOHNSTONE'S CAMPGROUND, it being the room in which
Paul Alexander Johnstone, the famed mind-reader, and his party slept
the third night while on a hunt for a pin head hid in the Cave by
Judge Boomer and W.U. Germond of Hot Springs. Mr. Johnstone made
a wager of $1000 that he could find a pin head if hid anywhere in
Wind Cave, and he would make the trip from Hot Springs to the Cave
and to the pin head blindfolded. The wager was accepted. The two
responsible men mentioned were to hide the pin. It was done. When
the men returned to Hot Springs, Johnstone grasped each man by the
arm, led them to a conveyance in waiting, drove to Wind Cave in
forty-two minutes, entered the Cave and after seventy-three hours
and twenty minutes returned with the identical pin head. Less time
would have been consumed in finding the pin head had those who hid
it not forgotten the route they took in hiding it. All were lost
at times. When lost the mind-reader is said to have writhed upon
the floor like a molested serpent. He cried and moaned as if in
the greatest mental agony, saying his reputation was at stake in
the matter, not caring for the money. Thoroughly blindfolded, Mr.
Johnstone finally led the party into the room known as STANDING
ROCK CHAMBER and placed the point of his knife blade upon the pin
head. Mr. Johnstone performed other almost equally extraordinary
feats of mind reading at other places, which provided data for a
chapter in the New Psychology.
Passing Johnstone's
Camp Ground we are ushered into a room remarkable for its appearance,
named BACHELOR'S PARLOR, so called because it is so rocky. It must
have been named by some imaginative lady who rescued some man from
the woes of bachelordom, and knew whereof she spoke.
From the Bachelor's
Parlor the way leads through the TICKET OFFICE into THE FAIR GROUNDS.
This immensity, covering about three acres was discovered in 1892
by George Stabler, and is said to be the largest underground pavilion
in the world. On a stormy day in winter when visitors were not expected,
Mr. Stabler and an exploring party entered the Cave desiring to
discover some hitherto unknown expanse. Taking a ball of heavy twine,
they fastened one end where the known ended and the unknown began
and pushed out like the resolute Norsemen knowing not whether. After
following a circuitous route, they were elated when the beauties
of the largest cavern known to man greeted their surprised eyes.
Having decided at the outset to name any rich find the Fair Grounds,
they were even more surprised when they observed that their discovery
was a veritable fair ground. Right before their astonished eyes
stood a TIMBER WOLF and through the ceiling and ELEPHANT'S FOOT
hung and still hangs as if a mammoth had broken through the ceiling,
forever secure from further activity. The first apartment of the
Fair Grounds is known as the SCHOOL ROOM of the South Dakota Teachers'
Association, dedicated in August, 1899, by a session of school with
Professor Brown, president of the association, as teacher, and fifty
two teachers acting as pupils.
The east wing
of the Fair Grounds was dedicated June 22, 1901, to the South Dakota
Federation of Women's Clubs. The guide points out TRILEY FOOT, explaining
that here the president put her foot down on allowing anyone to
take relics from the Cave.
The next point of interest is the TOBOGGAN SLIDE, where not a few
go coasting.
Lover's of art go into ecstasies as their eyes feast upon the delicate
frost work so plentiful in the FAIRIES' PLAYGROUND.
The DIAMOND
FIELDS OF SOUTH AFRICA urge the delighted traveler more refreshment
to labor as the sparkling gems flash the signal, "Come and
get me". But the rules are rigid. None are allowed to take
even a grain of sand. Each underground tourist is expected to shake
the dust from his feet on making his exit, lest the strict order
of the U.S. Government be abrogated.
That all persons
may have due warning, the following notice, 17 x 23 inches in size,
printed on linen, has been posted in many conspicuous places about
the hotel and cave entrance.
L.M.S. H.H.J.
A.R.G.
NOTICE
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
GENERAL LAND OFFICE
WASHINGTON, D.C. MAY 7, 1901
These lands, viz: Section one (1) and the S.E. ¼ of the
N.E. ¼ and lot one (1) of section two (2), township six
(6) south, range five (5) east, Black Hills Meridian, having been
withdrawn from settlement, entry, and other disposal, are, together
with
WIND CAVE
THE PROPERTY OF THE UNITED STATES
except where title has passed from the government by patent, and
are open to the public without any restrictions except hereinafter
set forth.
NO SPECIAL OR EXCLUSIVE PRIVILEGES WILL BE GRANTED
All persons are prohibited under penalty of the law from charging
or receiving any fee or other valuable consideration for the privileges
of visiting the Cave or any part of these premises; and from removing
therefrom or in any way disturbing any natural curiosities, specimens,
or objects of interest.
ALL PERSONS ARE LIABLE TO BE PROSECUTED
to the fullest extent of the law who commit within the Cave or
upon these premises any trepass whatever, who remove specimens
or natural curiosities therefrom, or work in any manner whatever
any injury, waste, or damage of any kind to these lands or to
the government property thereon.
J.I.P. Binger Hermann,
Approved: Commissioner of General Land Office.
THOS. RYAN, Acting Secretary.
Thus the specimen
hunter is barred. Were it otherwise, the temptation would be so
strong that in a few years nothing would be left but a hole in the
ground, indicating the dying scenes of an aged geyser.
Returning from
the Fair Grounds we descend the ALPINE PASS or MERRY-GO-ROUND where
many a hero and heroine has not wished for home. "If wishes
were horses beggars might ride." does not apply in Wind Cave,
for here we long to linger, drinking in new beauty, and lading the
argosies of memory deck deep with the choicest jewels from a hitherto
unknown world. It is with sorrow that we bid good bye to the Cave
for we have learned to love its starry grottoes and domes, its royal
arbors, magnificent palaces with splendid upholstering and drapery.
THE
PEARLY GATES ROUTE
THE LONGEST
ROUTE, TIME ABOUT SIX HOURS—EMBRACES GARDEN OF EDEN ROUTE
TO CROSS ROADS AND FAIR GROUNDS ROUTE TO ASSEMBLY ROOM, TOGETHER
WITH TWENTY-SIX ADDITIONAL MARVELS—SEVENTY-SIX POINTS OF INTEREST
ON THIS ROUTE.
The Pearly Gates
Route is the longest of the three, requiring about six hours to
complete it. It embraces the Garden of Eden Route as far as the
Cross Roads, and the Fair Grounds Route as far as the Assembly Room,
besides twenty-four other points of varying interest which, excepting
the Blue Grotto, are reached on this route exclusively. This is
the most difficult route of the three to travel, and children are
not permitted to attempt it; infants are checked and cared for at
the hotel while parents make the trip.
Leaving the
Fair Grounds Route at the Assembly Room we pass under the Bridge
of Sighs and find ourselves in CASTLE GARDEN. This is a large room
of blue formation, in which may by seen SAWYER'S SEA SERPENT.
A story is
told of a venturesome lady who frequented the Cave. She knew the
route as far as the M.E. CHURCH, whiter she decoyed her lover who
was sixteen years her senior. There she put out the lights, and
addressed the following point-blank question to her trembling, frightened
comrade. "Won't you be mine forever?" He replied, "Yes,
for heaven's sake, if you'll only take me out." She gained
a point by substituting darkness for leap year.
From Castle
Garden a rugged country is traveled leading to the famous BLUE GROTTO,
where the most beautiful of the box-work formations are found. The
body of the box-work being dark, the pearly coating of calcite blends
with the base, dolomite, upon which it is deposited, producing a
product altogether lovely. Even if time must be borrowed, you will
never regret taking the Pearly Gates Route via the Blue Grotto.
It can not be described. It must be seen.
Bidding this
gem of the Cave a sorrowful good bye, we pass CENTENNIAL HALL, with
its colored fossiliferous formations, and CHAMBER DE NORKET with
its large, lofty ceilings, and enter UNION COLLEGE, where the bell
is always ready but never rings. Here stands FAN ROCK, eight feet
high, six feet wide, with a base one foot square, always open for
the use of the tired college girl. Here also is the LETTER BOX,
a very useful accessory to college equipment. The box is sealed
open by nature; permitting all students to receive or send mail
uncensored.
Beyond Union
College is the Y.M.C.A. HALL, a few steps from which is the EPWORTH
LEAGUE PAVILION, having a large main room with four smaller ones,
corresponding with the four departments of the Epworth League. Next
in order is the WOODMEN HALL, dedicated in 1897 by the M.W.A. Its
chief characteristic, other than the formations omnipresent, is
the FRENCH COACH HORSE which lies by the wayside en route to Klondike.
The rooms next
in order are named in honor of the Daughters of the American Revolution,
The Martha Washington Memorial University, and The Knights of Pythias.
Near these rooms is the STANDING ROCK CHAMBER, which contains the
EAGLE, the POLAR BEAR, and the CHIMES, together with the rock twenty-five
feet high, which gives it its name. Here Johnstone found the pin
head under the American Eagle after a three days' hunt.
A GREYHOUND
stand in the passage way leading to MERMAIDS' RESORT, a nook that
seems to make one grow young in spite of time's advance. This bower
is roofed with crystals, lacelike, encrusted with white frosting
resembling swan's-down. Imagine a canopy studded with miniature
cedar trees, their tops downward hanging, spreading, and meeting
each other, the roots in the ceiling, and all snow white, with an
orange shade in the background, and you have a slight conception
of nature's extravagance at almost the farthest point on the longest
traveled route in Wind Cave. Great care is manifested by the guides,
and not all who start on the Pearly Gates Route are permitted to
see that promised land. If the party proves during the first few
miles that it will desist from all evidences of vandalism, it may,
with great precaution, be trusted to view, without resorting to
spoliation, this shrine of the Mermaids.
Passing through
the CHICAGO PORTRAIT ROOM and STABLER'S PASS we reach ST. DOMANIC
CHAMBER, the home of the HORNETS' NEST, and the sight of several
geodes.
Just beyond
or toward the Fair Grounds Route is the CROWN CHAMBER with a MOOSE
HEAD, and the UNITED COMMERCIAL TRAVELERS' CHAMBER with a LADY'S
EASTER BONNET on a three-eights tilt.
By retracing
our steps, we reach the TABERNACLE, the largest chamber on the Pearly
Gates Route.
At the end
of the Tabernacle is the climax of the entire route, THE PEARLY
GATES. Lighted with magnesium, the pearly-tinted, calcite-coated
boulders, leaning in the form of an arch, thrill one with awe. A
U.S. senator stood before those gates, amazed at the spectacle;
but his amazement was changed to complete fright when the sweet
strains of "Nearer, My God, to Thee" were wafted out toward
him from a choir which had taken its position without his knowledge
above and slightly beyond the nature-frescoed Pearly Gates. The
senator admitted that his hair began to stand on end. Doubtless
he preferred to occupy his seat in the senate rather than sweep
through Pearly Gates to SAINTS' REST.
Near the Tabernacle
is the CHRISTION ENDEAVOR ROOM, beautified with white box-work;
and further on and to the left of Saints' Rest is the finest crystal
formation in the Cave. It surpasses spider-web or silk in fineness,
and measures about two feet. It is called NOAH'S BEARD. It, too,
is protected with the greatest care, none being permitted to approach
too close lest the breath destroy this very delicate formation.
This route is not always traveled in the order given, especially
the latter part surrounding the Tabernacle.
Visiting the
attractions in any desired order, one is delighted beyond the power
of expression, but regrets that nature should have secreted her
most perfect and beautiful formations so "far from humanity's
reach." Opinion is well divided as to which is the most beautiful
and desirable of the three routes. Some prefer the Garden of Eden,
some the Fair Grounds, and still others lavish their encomiums upon
the Pearly Gates Route, urging without fear of successful contradiction
that it is peerless. Regardless of which route possesses the most
numerous excellencies, it may be asserted that there is one very
noteworthy property possessed by all, that of relieving asthma the
minute a patient enters the Cave. Why a colony of asthmatics does
not plan to locate in the Cave is an enigma.
THE
MAIN TRAVELED ROUTES IN OUTLINE
GARDEN OF EDEN—FAIR GROUNDS—-PEARLY GATES
GARDEN OF EDEN
ROUTE
(Shortest Route, Two Hours Time.)
1. Entrance |
32. Pop
Corn Alley |
2. Bride's
Chamber, 155 feet below entrance |
33. Odd
Fellow's Hall |
3. Lincoln's
Fireplace |
34. Battleship
Colon |
4. Prairie
Dog and Mound |
35. Turtle
Pass |
5. Petrified
Clouds |
36. CROSS
ROADS |
6. Snow
Ball Room |
37. Nasby's
Dome |
7. Church
Steeple |
38. Breckenridge
Gallery |
8. Post-Office |
39. Burleigh
Heights |
9. Roe's
Misery |
40. Stone
Quarries |
10. Red
Hall, Liberty Bell, Wash
Boiler |
41. Giant's
Coffin |
11. White
Room |
42. Garden
Wall |
12. Hard
Scrabble |
43. Bishop's
Gaze, dome
110 ft. high |
13. Opera
House |
44. G.A.R.
Hall |
14. Administration
Bldg. and Alligator |
45. Washington's
Arbor |
15. Milton's
Study |
46. St.
George's Palace |
16. Devil's
Lookout |
47. Fat
Woman's Misery |
17. Devil's
Keyhole |
48. Cliff
Climbers Delight, 60 ft. high |
18. Dutch
Bake Oven |
49. Eastern
Star Room |
19. Sampson's
Palace |
50. W.C.T.U.
Hall |
20. Queen
of Sheba's Head-Dress |
51. Silent
Lake |
21. Swiss
Scenery |
52. Cathedral
Dome |
22. Milkmaid's
Mishap |
53. Kelly's
Slide |
23. Queen's
Drawing Room |
54. Garden
of Eden |
24. New
York Elevated Railroad |
1. Jacob's
Well
|
25. M.E.
Church |
2. Linnaeus'
Grotto
|
26. Delsarte
Temple |
3.
Gypsum Mummy
|
27. Giant's
Causeway |
55. Beacon
Heights |
28. Arch
of Politeness |
56. Corkscrew
Path |
29. Lena's
Arbor |
57. Glacier |
30. Bishop
Fowler's Cathedral |
58. Goose |
31. Lover's
Retreat |
59. Dante's
Inferno |
FAIR
GROUNDS ROUTE FROM CROSS ROADS
(Medium Route, Time Three Hours.)
36. Cross
Roads |
54. A.O.U.
Hall |
37. Sumner
Avenue, 300 feet long |
55. Ghost
of "She" |
38.
Masonic Temple |
56. Punch
Bowl |
39. Elk's
Resort |
57. Degree
of Honor Hall |
40. Wind
Cave Chimes |
58. Sheep |
41. McKinley
Memorial Hall |
59. Johnstone's
Camp Campground |
42. Napoleon's
Tomb |
60. The
Parlor |
43. Whitney
Avenue |
61. Ticket
Office |
44. Shadowy
Depths |
62. Fair
Grounds |
45. Monte
Cristo Palace |
1. Room
of S.D. Teacher's Assoc.
|
46. Bridge
of Sighs |
2. Room
of S.D. Federation of Women's Club
|
47. Bottomless
Pit |
3. Timber
Wolf
|
48. Grecian
Bend |
4. Elephant's
Foot
|
49. ASSEMBLY
ROOM |
5. Trilby
Foot
|
50. Mound
Builder's Rest |
6. Tobbagan
Slide
|
51. Airship |
7. Fairies'
Play Grounds
|
52. Bad
Lands |
8. Diamond
Fields
|
53. Tennis
Court |
63. Alpine
Pass or Merry-go-Round |
PEARLY GATES
ROUTE FROM ASSEMBLY ROOM
(Longest Traveled Route, Time Six Hours.)
49. Assembly
Room |
63. Martha
Washington Memorial University |
50. Castle
Garden |
64. K.P.
Hall |
51. Blue
Grotto, 500 ft. level |
65. Standing
Rock Chamber |
52. Centennial
Hall |
66. Polar
Bear |
53. Chamber
de Norket |
67. Mermaid's
Resort |
54. Union
College |
68. Chicago
Portrait Room |
55. Letter
Box |
69. Crown
Chamber |
56. Fan
Rock |
70. U.C.T.
Council Chamber |
57. Y.M.C.A.
Hall |
71. St.
Domanic Chamber |
58. Epworth
League Pavilion |
72. The
Tabernacle |
59. Woodmen
Hall |
73. Pearly
Gates |
60. French
Coach Horse |
74. Saints'
Rest |
61. Klondyke |
75. Noah's
Beard |
62. Daughters
of American Revolution Headquarters |
|
Thus it
is observed that those who take the Pearly Gates Route get the benefit
of the Garden of Eden Route as far as the Cross Roads, and also
the Fair Grounds Route as far as the Assembly Room, besides twenty-six
other points of interest which appear on the Pearly Gates Route
exclusively.
THE
LESS TRAVELED ROUTES
BEE HIVE—CRYSTAL
PALACE—WIND RIVER—GRAND CANYON
The BEE HIVE
Route is interesting, but difficult to travel. It leads through
rough, craggy, and dismal avenues and chambers. which abundantly
permit one to study the Cave as nature left it. Of the one hundred
miles explored and the three thousand chambers discovered in Wind
Cave, none are as interesting, romantic, or half so difficult of
access as the Crystal Palace Route, which extends fifteen miles
to the left, beyond the Wind River Route, embracing the Crystal
Palace, the Mausoleum, and Columbian Hall. The Grand Canyon Route,
with Elephant Hall and Monument Room at its terminus; is a continuation
of the Devil's Lookout crevice. Few take this route. Probably not
more than one tourist in a thousand dares face the dangers of the
110-foot climb down the perpendicular walls of the Grand Canyon.
The ride down Echo River in Mammoth Cave, Ky., might well be classed
as the journey of a tenderfoot compared with the Alpine trip of
the unique route. The writer will never forget the incidents of
that romantic trip down Echo River, nor the descent of Wind Cave's
marvel, the Grand Canyon. Having descended the walls of that canyon
without a rope, using the guide, however, as a bridge in places,
and being seated upon the old elephant's back in Elephant Hall,
I said to the guide: "If we should lose our lights, or have
them extinguished and have no matches, how would we ever escape
from this deep and dangerous subterranean prison?" He replied:
"Since I am the only one this side of Montana that knows this
route, it is possible, under such circumstances, that centuries
might roll by before our unbleached skeletons would be found by
some venturesome exploring party and preserved for study as fossils
of an extinct race." This rather depressing information unfolded
a possible chapter of unwritten history within my imaginative horizon
that caused me to tremble with fear. Mental pictures flashed in
rapid succession, portraying the vistas of time, in which a black-haired
Penelope and a three-year-old boy figured most prominently. I could
see them approach this breathing wonder in search of one who had
long years before set out to seek, not Trojan honors, but Wind Cave
intelligence. No tidings come. All grow hopeless save the one who
knits by day and unravels by night. Suitors come and go, but the
promise is withheld. The former boy grays with age as years take
their flight. But when the summit of the Grand Canyon is scaled,
equilibrium of both mind and body is regained and the semi-blood-
curdling experiences of the past two hours seem only as a dream.
Hastening over
craggy rocks, steep precipices, and deep pits, through apertures
impossible of access by the fat man, down declines glacier-like,
sprinkled here and there with crystals glittering and pellucid;
walking under sparkling diamond formations and between giant columns
of stalagmites and stalactites, under towering domes, and through
starry grottoes connected by marvelous avenues, we reach the well-beaten
path traveled on the regular routes by tens of thousands of tourists,
and seek the outer world by ascending the 156 steps whence we started.
Our experiences have been wonderful. We return convinced that no
pen can portray the Cave's manifold wonders; no artist can do justice
to the calcite chalcedony-covered art formations, the snow-white,
delicate frost-work with orange-hued background, or the pearly-covered,
popcorn-fringed box-work so abundant in the lower tiers of the Cave.
When an outing
is under consideration, do not fail to include the wonderful Wind
Cave on your itinerary. When a party emerges from the Cave it is
common to hear such expressions as, "It is wonderful",
"I never dreamed of such a marvel," "Its mazes and
marvels surely defy description," "I would not have missed
it for $100," etc, etc. An old Dakotan met a party of Kentuckians
at the Evans hotel and asked them if they did not want to visit
one of the great wonders of the world, Wind Cave, twelve miles away
toward Harney Peak. Quick came the reply: "We want you to understand,
sir, that we are from Kentucky and live near Mammoth Cave, and if
you have anything to show us that approaches the wonder of our native
state, we are at your service, sir." This was an opportunity,
and he responded, "I will take you out, show you through the
Cave, bring you back to the hotel, and if you do not say Wind Cave
is the equal of, if not superior to Mammoth Cave, I'll not charge
you a copper; otherwise the charge will be $1.50 each." They
accepted the proposition, and were so bewildered by the Cave's mazes,
marvels, and endless profusion of wonders that their former praise
of Mammoth Cave was changed to eulogies of Wind Cave, the unparalleled
geological wonder of the world, located twelve miles from Hot Springs,
the "Carlsbad of America," amid the entrancing, scenic
Black Hills, which are known to art as the "Switzerland of
America."
THE
SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA
THE BLACK HILLS
The Black Hills
have the most ideal scenery on the continent, thereby securing the
appellation, "The Switzerland of America." Geology accounts
for the Black Hills by postulating a volcanic upheaval when Time
was young. Extensive pine forests now cover the scene of a once
terrific convulsion. All is quiet now, and the tourists, artists,
and lovers of nature for nature's sake, of two hemispheres, flock
hither to indulge to the utmost capacity their love of the beautiful,
the romantic, the sublime.
Deer have long been partial to this region and still make it the
home of their choice. Trout fishing in this "Switzerland"
is recognized as unrivaled far and near.
THE
CARLSBAD OF AMERICA
HOT SPRINGS—INDIAN
DIFFICULTIES—SONG OF HIAWATHA
Beautifully
located within this renowned "Switzerland" is Hot Springs,
the "Carlsbad of America." Here numerous springs pour
forth their health-laden waters, for years the bone of contention
between hostile Indian tribes, who regarded them as "fountains
of perpetual youth." But the iron hand of progressive civilization
wrested from the savage horde this El Dorado and substituted magnificent
stone edifices for the Indian wigwam.
Not willingly
did the red man yield his "happy hunting ground" to the
white invader. The approach of winter brought no discomfort to the
occupants of the skin-covered tepee, for the sharp-eyed aborigines
observed the elk, bison, and deer basking amid the sunlit hilltops,
and ejaculated: "Ugh, game heap plenty." Clashes between
jealous tribes were not infrequent. Ere the white man molested that
paradise, the Indian found those of his own race to be his own worst
enemy. Pursuing game through the hills, boundaries were crossed,
quarrels ensued, and tomahawks flashed.
Longfellow's
"Song of Hiawatha" bristles with allusions to the traditions
of this Indian country:
"Should
you ask me, whence these stories?
Whence these legends and traditions,
With the odors of the forest,
With the dew and damp of meadows,
With the curling smoke of wigwams,
With the rushing of great rivers,
With their frequent repetitions
And their wild reverberations.
As of thunder in the mountains?
I should answer, I should tell you,
From the forests and the prairies,
From the great lakes of the Northland,
From the land of the Ojibways,
From the land of the Dacotahs,
From the mountains, moors, and fenlands,
Where the heron, the Shuh-shuh-gah,
Feeds among the reeds and rushes."
HOTELS
AND SANITARIUMS
SPRINGS—BATH
HOUSE—SOLDIERS' HOME
Putting the
best foot first, the Evans, commodious, palatial, and inviting,
takes precedence. Erected from solid walls of pink sandstone at
the enormous cost of nearly a quarter of a million dollars, it resembles
the fabled "Palace of the Gods." No modern convenience
has been omitted in its construction and operation. Steam heated,
electric lighted, luxuriously furnished, and provided with elevators,
the Evans has no apologies to offer. Its menu offers the best that
money can buy. It accommodates 350 guests at reasonable rates.
The Evans Sanitarium
stands as a helpmeet to the colossal hotel. Possessing every appliance
ingenuity can dictate, it offers unsurpassed advantages incident
to its field. Medicated baths, needle baths, silver, vapor, and
Turkish baths are at your option. It is open also to persons not
guests at the hotel.
The Gillespie,
just across the bridge from the Evans, is also a modern structure,
conveniently located and attractive, presenting an excellent view
of Fall River, Battle Mountain, and the adjacent hills. It is run
on the American and European plan, and accommodates 200 guests.
Rooms range from $.25 to $1.00 per day.
The Hot Springs
Hotel offers excellent accommodations, with a cuisine that bespeaks
generosity on the part of the management. It accommodates 90 guests.
Rates $1.00 to $1.50 per day. Its proximity to the Minnekahta Bath
House gives it a unique position.
The Minnekahta,
located in the rear of the Hot Springs Hotel, was the original spring
used by the Indians, and the one which brought fame to the Minnekahta
or Fall River valley. The temperature of the water is abut 98 degrees,
and seems to effect the miraculous when applied to human ills.
The word Minnekahta
is Indian and means "hot water" (Minne-water; kahta-hot).
Before being changed to Hot Springs, the town was called Minnekahta.
Far to the eastward, the Indian Medicine Man pointed to the Black
Hills and prescribed for his patient a trip to Minnekahta, where
health flowed in torrents from the foot of the mountain.
The Hiawatha
Hotel and Black Hills Sanitarium have the reputation of being a
panacea for all ills. More than 200 guests can be accommodated.
Rates $2.00 to $2.50 per day.
There are other
hotels and sanitariums quite deserving, but space forbids lengthy
individual mention, such as the Stewart Bath House, the Sulphur
Springs Bath House, the Siloam Bath House, the Hotel Fargo, the
Huebner, Mower, Clifton, Davis, Williams, Minnelusa, Ferguson, and
Palace hotels, ranging from $1.00 to $2.00 per day.
The Hygeia
Springs, located across the bridge from the Evans and a few rods
south of the Gillespie, are doubtless the most popular for drinking
purposes in the entire circuit of springs. All day long groups of
people may be seen wending their way toward these springs, named
in honor of Hygeia, the Goddess of health and daughter of Aesculapius.
Rustic seats are close at hand where the health-seeker rests between
drinks. This water is shipped, as well as the restoring of their
health, have resolved to drink no other.
The Plunge
Bath is probably remembered longest by a majority of people. Here
a luxury is offered which surpasses sea bathing. The water ranging
from 4 ½ to 9 feet, is clear as crystal and very buoyant,
being heavily charged with minerals. With a temperature of about
96 degrees, no warming or cooling is required, for the water comes
forth properly prepared from the laboratory of nature. The basin
is 50 x 200 feet, the water changing every 35 minutes, being fed
by numerous springs. Every appliance is provided that the bathers'
pleasure may demand. A spring-board, a rope, a float, and the never-to-be-forgotten
toboggan slide are free to all, the only charge being $.25 for the
use of a dressing room and the bathing privilege. Bathing suits
are rented at the office at an additional charge of $.25 to all
who come unsupplied. Those who visit Hot Springs and fail to visit
the plunge baths miss "an Elysium more pure and bright than
that of the Greeks."
THE SOLDIERS' HOME
Recognizing
the sanitary excellencies, health-giving springs, and splendid scenery
in Hot Springs and vicinity, the visitor asks no questions relative
to the reasons for locating the Soldiers' Home here. Surroundings
speak in no uncertain tone. The visitor scarcely arrives in the
city without inquiring, "What stately building is that yonder
on the heights?" Being informed that it is a tribute to the
heroic citizen soldiery of the Republic, a resolve is registered
to visit it. Many a soldier dwells there, profoundly thankful for
the nation's gratitude. An effort has been made to get a bill through
Congress appropriating a quarter of a million dollars to erect a
National Hospital for invalid soldiers in connection with the Soldiers'
Home. Tests have been made by government officials, proving that
Hot Springs is the ideal spot of the states for preserving the nation's
defenders. All honor to the nation that is not unmindful of services
rendered.
RAILROADS
BURLINGTON-NORTH-WESTERN
The Burlington
and the North-Western lines have a beautiful union depot in the
heart of the city of Hot Springs, S.D., and only a few rods from
the Evans and the Gillespie hotels.
The Burlington
runs solid trains daily from Chicago and St. Louis via Lincoln,
Neb., Edgemont, S.D., and Billings, Mont. to Spokane, Seattle, Portland,
and Tacoma. This train is called the St. Louis-Portland Special.
One car is taken from this train daily at Edgemont and attached
to a Burlington train bound for Deadwood. Hot Springs passengers
take the Deadwood train as far as Minnekahta, sixteen miles north
of Edgemont, where a train is in waiting which runs between Minnekahta
and Hot Springs only, a distance of thirteen miles. Ticket are sold
and baggage checked through to Hot Springs from any point on the
Burlington system.
The North-Western
Line runs trains daily from Chicago to Deadwood via Omaha, and Buffalo
Gap, S.D. Hot Springs passengers change at Buffalo Gap, where a
train is in waiting bound for Hot Springs, located thirteen miles
from Buffalo Gap. Tickets are sold and baggage checked through to
Hot Springs from any point on the North-Western line. Special excursions
are frequently billed from Hot Springs by both lines to various
Black Hills resorts at remarkably low rates.
During the
open season at Sylvan Lake, the Burlington runs special Saturday
excursions to Custer, a distance of 42 miles, returning the following
Monday, rate $2.05 for the round trip. Sylvan Lake is six miles
from Custer and is reached by stage. Those who enjoy boat-riding
amid romantic scenery should visit Sylvan Lake, the "Gem of
the Hills," where unharnessed nature stalks forth in her wildest
mood. One and one-half miles from the Sylvan Lake Hotel is Cathedral
Park, a veritable Garden of the Gods, encircled by the Needles,
giant shafts whose towering summits both amaze and bewilder the
sightseer. Two miles beyond the Needles stand Harney Peak, the highest
point in the Black Hills. From its summit, an elevation of 8,200
feet, a splendid view of four states is obtained. On a clear day
the horizon leaps beyond Deadwood and White Bear Butte on the north,
far out into the Dakota Bad Lands on the east, high over the rugged
bluffs of the Niobrara in Nebraska, and westward to the remote highlands
of Wyoming and Montana. Nature happily anticipated the wants of
mountain climber and wisely provided a refreshing spring only a
few feet below this craggy summit of adamantine rock. Much speculation
is indulged by geologist is accounting for the extraordinary formations
observed between Sylvan Lake and Harney Peak. All agree, however,
that it is the product of an upheaval during a very early geological
age. The Indian loved the Black Hills, fought for them, but never
became brave enough to make this particular Garden of the Gods his
haunt.
The hills at
large abound in evidences of Indian tenure, but within this scene
of frantic nature no traces of Indian occupation have been discovered.
The red man's fancy doubtless pictured it as the home of his gods,
who lived surrounded by creations of their own handiwork, and were
therefore not to be disturbed by the blood-curdling war-whoop of
the superstitious Indian.
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E.C.
Horn was a travel writer of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
His booklet, Mazes and Marvels of Wind Cave (1901), along
with Luella Agnes Owen's Cave
Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills (1898) were the first
books published about Wind Cave. These books, in conjunction with
Alvin McDonald's diary, The Private
Account of A.F. McDonald, provide the earliest accounts
of Wind Cave.
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