Crosscut Saw Manual

Filing the Saw, continued

Setting

To set a saw is to bend the tip of each cutter tooth a slight amount away from the plane of the saw. Just as alternate teeth are sharpened opposite each other, they are set opposite to each other. Setting helps prevent binding by cutting a kerf that is slightly wider than the saw. The amount of set required depends on the type of saw used and the type of wood being cut. A saw should be set only as much as required to keep it from binding. More set than necessary results in more work to make a wider kerf and a saw that flops in the cut with the possibility of a curving cut. The set required can vary from almost nothing for a crescent-taper-ground saw in dry hardwood to 0.030 inch for the same saw in soft, punky wood. A set of 0.010 inch is a good preliminary figure. Flat-ground saws require more set.

There are two basic methods of setting: spring setting and hammer setting. Spring setting is done by using a tool with a slot that fits over the top of the cutter tooth. The tip of the tooth is bent the required amount. This method is not recommended because of the possibility of bending the whole tooth and the fact that a tooth doesn't seem to hold a spring set well.

Spring set tool

There are several ways of hammer setting a saw, only one of which is recommended. Two other methods are briefly discussed for familiarity.

One method uses a setting stake. The setting stake is placed on a log or block and the wedge fully driven in to keep the stake in a firm position. The blade of the saw is laid on the stake with the point of the cutter tooth projecting over the bevel about ¼inch. The tooth is then struck with the set hammer as shown.

Using a setting stake on a stump

Another method uses a tool that is placed over the cutter tooth and is struck with a hammer.

Striking a cutter tooth with a set hammer

Using a setting tool to set cutter teeth