TEXAS AND THE GULF OF MEXICO; OR, YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD.
BY MRS. HOUSTOUN.
PHILADELPHIA:
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C. SHERMAN, PRINTER.
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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER 1.
ftom Blackwall-The Schooner-Yacht 
11 Dolphin"-Bay of Biscay- Strong breezes 
and squally"-Nancy,
the black woman 	13

CHAPTER Il.
First view of Madeira-Funchal-lnhabitants-Vegotation-
Vintage-The Coural-Sugar-cane-Invttlids-Climitte-A
Madeira goat-Bad conduct of three of the crew

CHAPTER 111.
Departure for the West Indies-Peak of Teneriffe-Sunday-Barbadoes-
Trade-winds-Bridgetown-Miss Betsey Austin

CHAPTER IV
Storm at Sea-Lightning-Flying-Fish-Iron Lighthouse-Jamaica-
Port-Royal-Harbour-Earthquake of 1692
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CONTENTS.

Pirates_Commodore,Byng's House-Wallace, the New-
Foundland Dog-Musquitoes-Coloured and White PoPula.
Spanish Town-The Queen's House-Kingston Climate - Vultures 
Superstitiori The Doctor'-Sally Adams.-Departure 	40

CHAPTER V.

Cape Corrientes-squally-The Mississippi-Balize-Cat-fish
-An odd Character-Rifle Shooting-River Scenery-

CHAPTER VT.

New Orleans The Harbour--Texan Commodore-The Hotel
of St. Charles-Busy scene on the strand-American rJers and custorm-,-Eligible 
situation of New Orleans -Population of the State of 
Louisiana-Yellow Fever-National education-Departure from 
New Orleans . 73

CHAPTER VIL

Sail for the Gulf of Texas-Galveston-Difficulty of crossing
the bar at the mouth of the harbour-Captain Elliott
Texas, its lxmition, resotirces, and extent 	91

CHAPTER VITT.

Political position of Texas during the first years of her 
colonization-Vvents which were the more immediate cause of
her Declaration of Independance	99
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.

Progress of the struggle for Texan Independence-Declaration of
the people of Texas in General Convention assembled Cruelty
of General Santa Anna-Battle of San Jacinto Total rout of the
Mexican army - . . . 110

CHAPTER X.

Santa Anna brought prisoner to General Houston-Termination of the struggle, and 
recognition of the Republic Constitution ofTexas 	117

CHAPTER X1.

The island of Galveston-Curious mode of building
housesSix.roomed house built in a week-Go-ahead career of
the Texans -

CHAPTER, X11.

The public press-Courtesy of the Texans-Dry stores-Important
position in society of,the pig-The turn-out houseChewing
and spitting-Climate-Comic scene in r". ing a Bayou-French
emigrants-Idiot girl - - . 126

CHAPTER X111.

Sporting in Texas-Provisionr,-Bogs-Deer-shooting~The
Mustang, or wild horse-Fish--Galveston fort.~-Improvidence of the Texans-Return to New Orleans	137
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.

Lighthouse at the entrance of the Mississippi-Winter scenery
of its bankr-Extrerne cold-Visit to the shore-Venomous
snake-Ran on board by a steamer-Arrival at New Orleans -A
musement of the inhabitan ts - . . - 147

CHAPTER XV.

Florida, Indians-Their babits-Party of prisoners-The chief, Tiger-Tail

CHAPTER XV1.

Public carriages-Negro slaves-Their habits and customsA
b,4ence of religious fvelings and observance at New Orleans -Favourito 
sports-Stoppage of a bank-American crimps habits of the 
CitiZerls-Commerce, of New Orleans

CHAPTER XVIL

Mr, Clay, 1ho popular orator-General remarks on American
society and manners-Depariure f'rom New Orleans 	173

CHAPTER XV111.

Second arrival at Galveston-Texan news-The Ellen Frankland
steamer's voyage up the Trinity river-Its importance State of
cornmerce-Capae4y of Galveston harbour-False
accounts of crime Texas--Fortune-gettingpropetisity 183
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER XIX.

Sufferings of emigrants-Texas an advantageous field for
settlers Climate-Productions of' the country-Disadvantages

CHAPTER XX.

Patience and Perseverance indispensable to a settler in a 
new country-Story ofa young emigrant's sufferings

CHAPTER XXI.

Abundance of game-Severe northers peculiar to the Gulf of
Mexico-Gradual encroachment of land upon the sea
Heavy swell on the bar-Different classes of titles to land
-Texas peculiarly adapted for breeding stock - 206

CIIAPTER XXII.

History and character of General Houston, President of Texas
-Run for the Presidency-Whittling-Discomfort of travel-,

CHAPTER XXIII.

Commencement of an excursion tip the country-The Houston
steamer-Her passenger&-The town of Houston-Tavern fare at
Houston-Start for the prairie
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I CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXIV,

scenery of the prairie,-Free and easy manners of the inn.
keetwes wn-lndians of the Lipan tribe-Letter of' condolence to the Lipans on the death 
of their chief . 225

CHAPTER XXV

Dangers of travelling in the prairie-Last evening at Houston
Severe frogt-Return from Houston to Galveston-Tile
opossum-Polifical conferences and discussion on the slave.
trade--Slave-owners sufferers by its continuance

CHAPTER XXVI.

Character of the negro slave-Probability of freedom 
being granted by the whites-The tariff-A city in embryo

CHAPTER XXVII.

Seworo norther-The rattlesnake, &c.-Humming-birds-Stim.
Mary mode of cjecting abolitionists from Galveston-National Guard - 
Burying-ground -Texan duel - Facility of oNaining a divorce-Agreea'ble 
present on the last day of our swy-(;ood wishes to the republic

CHAPTER XXVIII.

F)epart tire from Galveston for Havanna-Severe gale-
Appearatice of the sea tinder its influence-Dangerous navigation of
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C ON T BN T S.
xi
the Gulf of Florida-Incidents on board the yacht-Arrival at
Havanna-Moro Castle-The bay-Vigit of the Spanish authorities-
Dinner on shore at the Consul-General's-fleat of the climate-
Manners, habits, and amusements of the ladies-Visit to the
Captain-General Valdez

CHAPTER XXIX.
Historical notice of Cuba-Cornmerce-Cruel treatment of
slaves-Creoles-Revolt of the Matanzas-Anticipated revolt of the black 
population-Exclusive state of society- Sugar Courits"-Animals, birds, 
noxious insects, and reptiles-Rail-road-Copper, silver, 
and coal mines-Splendid seenery-Cuba indebted for its 
prosperity to Viceroy Tacon -Plaza de Toros-The Cathedral

Magnificence of private houses-Ceremonies oftlie. Holy 
Week	-Entrance of H. M.ship the Illustrious, Admiral Sir Charles
Adam-High price of'provisions-Fruits-fligh rents-Good
Friday-Race-course-Theatre of Tacon-Dance on board
the flag-ship-Our last evening at Havanna - . 272

Departure from Havanna-Bermuda, St. George's harbour
Hamilton-Bermudian populatioll-Whale-fishing-D~-ligit.
fal gardens-Visit to the Bishop ot' Newfoundland--The sea
grape- The. Pride of lndia."-Ireland harbour-Departure for England
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER, XXX11-

The Azores-Terceira-Appearance of Fayal from the sea
Islands-Eddystone Lightbouse-Portland-The 'North Foreland-Conclusion
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T E X A S AND THE GULF OF MEXICO.

CHAPTER I

Departure from Blackwall.-The Schooner-Yacht 11 Dolphin."
Bay of Biscay.- Strong breezes and squally."-Nancy~ Woman.
Vieil oce' an, dans tes rivages
Flotte comme un ciel 4'emnant,
Plus orageux que les nuagos,
Plus lumineux qu'un firmament!
Pendant que les empires nai,"ent,
Grandissent, tombent, 
disparaissont
Avec leurs g4a6rations,
Dresse tes bouillormantes cr6tes,
Bats ta rive! et dis aux tempkes;
Ou sont les nids des nations I
DE LAMARTINE

Trafalgar Hotel Blackwall  in September that I wis seated in 
one of' its
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TEXAS AND THE
rooms looking out on the broad river, and tile busy
steamers -passing to and fro.- It was my last evening
lw,f England. We were about, if I may, ore leaving 0.Xpress iti to take up our 
abode for the next twelve n I ionths on the bosom of the 
Ocean; our intention being to cross the Atlantic, and to 
visit a large part of the American Continent.
I always feel, before setting out on a long land journey,
something approaching to depression of spirits;, but on
this occasion the entire novelty Of the expedition pre
vented tile attack, and my pleasurable anticipations were
almost unalloyed. It was a voyage undertaken prin.
of health for me, and I was bound to be pleased with the 
arrangements made for my fn I walked to tile. The sun had nearly set 
whe West India Dock, in which the Dolphin was lying; I could 
scarcely make her out in the dusky twilight, and this was my first
introduction to my future home.  The Yacht had been often 
described to ine, and yet I was surprised at the size of her 
cabins, and the extreme comfort of her internal arrangements.
I was met by the Master and the Doctor, and on goinglwlow
found a most enjoyable state cabin, quantities of books short every
enjoyment which a reasonable woman could require. My own
cabin was large, with two sofas, the bed being a swinging cot,
which was taken down in the daytime. My first night on board
was Spent in the docks, its we intended to leave thera at
daybreak. No ships I believe ever sail,'when they oug-lit to do
so, or rather at the time originally fixed for their departure; and
to this rule, ours was no exception. The middle of August was
tile time when we had intended to have taken our leave of
England; but so many alterations, and improvements had been
required for,the vessel. that the 13th of September ha&arrived-
bef:ire N've were in Blackwall
The schooner-yacht Dolphin is two hundred and nineteen
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GULF OF MEXICO.
tons burthen, drawing twelve feet water, and measuring one hundred feet in 
length : she carries six guns, and tier crew consisted of eleven men, one boy, a car.
penter, cook, and cook's mate; the other persons ~onboard were the master and 
surgeon, the mate, steward, and steward's mate, and niy 
own maid. We had also with iis a negress, a native 
of St. Thomas in the West Indies, who had been 
stewardess in one of the India steamers, and who was 
to attend on me till my own maid became accustomed to the 
sea. We were in -01 four and twenty sotils on 
board, and were bound for Madeira as our first resting-place.
It was on the morning of the 13th of September 1843 {1843/09/13},
that, after being hooked on to a steamer, we were tugged
rapidly down the river. The weather was firie, as it 
generallyis in the beginning of this most pleasant of months in the
Eng)ish climate ; the morning air was ,clear, bright, and
bracing, and cre, we reached Gravesend fresh breeze sprung up froin 
the westward, which was just what, we wanted. 
In-unediately all sail was made, and having dismissed our little 
steamer, the Dolphin was scudding along, at the rate of ten knots an hour. Before
dark we were off Dover, and bad put our pilot into his 
boaL  We were becalmed a whole day off the Isle of
Wight: this was tedious enough certainly, butstill it 
was pleasant to look a little longer on the land we were 
leaving for so long m period, and I could not help thinking
as I gazed on the lovely Island, how doubtfiA it was, if,
in my wanderings to the far West, I should see any to
emopare with it. But with all my romantic admimtioit for the
shores of England, I conf"s I was not sorry when towards
evening a, breeze sprung up, taking advantage of which we
crowded sail, and soon lost sight of the coast. Oar departure
having been so long delayed was the cause of considerable,
inconvenience to us, for on the 21st the, moon changed ;
and, as we had been led to expect, there arose a gale of
wind that certainly surprikd me.
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TEXAS AND THE
I did not consider i:uyself quite a fresh-water ailor. I
had frequently undertaken short voyages before, had
yachted in the Mediterranean, and in the Channel, and
steamed in various directions near home, but the Bay of
Biscay, was new to me, and nothing that I had ever be.
fore encountered had at all prepared me for what we
"I 'were to. underLro. It was a short pitching Sea, with
"I ~ wind, called in the log.,book, "strong breezes and
Squally," but which I thought at the tirne were tremen.
gales. sails were reefed constantly, while occasion. schooner
scudded past us, to() much engaged in attending to her
own safety to take any notice of us. L was at first
surprised at the calmness and, composure of the ship's
crew, entertaining as I did a private, opinion of my own
that we were in immilPent peril. I kept my fears to
myself, however, and learlit ,know better in time.
flow W, and miserable, many of our party looked
when the wind first began to freshen! Till now, tile sea
had been calm as a summer lake, but we had at last to
bid adieu to all the pleasurable sensations Of fille,
weather sailing. The very dogs looked wretched, and
instead of gambolling about, and enjoying in common
with our. Aves the novelty of the scene, they flungr
themselyes heavily down, against the side, and when
disturbed again by r tile' Violent motion of the ship,
rolled uneasily and restlesAy along the deck in search
of some safer berth. The poor doctor was I think the
greatest sufFerer; it was' really melancholy 6 see him,
doubled up under the bul. warks, and obliged as lie said,
if lie attempted to move to stick to every thing that came
in his way, like a leech.  bore his troubles with
exemplary patience, as indeed we all did, and like
every thing, else, they calne to all end fit hist. 1, was ,
happy enough not to -,,uffer myscif tbut my maid was a wretched Prev 
to the dis ressing malady of sea-sickness. I believe there never ct
existed,a lady's maid who was not;,tliouqh I have never yet b
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GULF OF MEXICO.
able, either from physical or natural causes, to satisfactorily why it should be so~*
Sept. 22d. {1843/09/22} Fresh gales, and squally, with rain, two reefs,
in top-ail, mainsail triced up, nd very heavy swell. A
fearful nk,,Ixt succeeded to this stormy day. A night not to
be forgotten ; at least by me, for in the course of it, an
event occurred, which stamped its horrors 04 my
imagination.The wind being adverse, we, were 
constantly obliged to wear sh ip," and when this 
operation was going forward,,rreat care was required, and 
every precaution taken to prevent such articles of 
furniture, &c., from getting adrift as were not lashed to the deck, 
or otherwise rendered immovable. When we were not 
prepared for the natural consequences of tacking, the 
tremendous lurches of the vessel set every thing, to say 
nothing of ourselves, rolling about in mad confusion.
Towards the morning of the 23d, when the uproar was at
its hei(dit, sails changing, men rushing along the deck, the
wind veering about in all directions, and the conse. quent
evolutions in full operation, my maid staggered into my
cabin, pale as a gjiost, and wringing her hands, , Oh mearn,
the captain says, we are going to turn over!" This was
really an'awffil piece of information, conveyed too so
suddenly: it tallied, moreover, with my own silent fears, and
I confess that, at first, I fully shared in the panic.
A minute's reflection, and the still more consoling fact
that we continued to remain afloat, showed ine the ab.
ourdity of fear. After all, the whole affair procecAed
,from an attention on the part of the master, who before
Here I Tiiust take the opportunity of remarking, for
the benefit of the world in general, and bad sailors in
particular, that the most popular, dish at this time was
currie; it seemed to answer the purposes both of food and medicine
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TEXAS AND THE
th order to 4 bout ship &PPrise me of t ship," had sent to
intention, that I might not be taken by surprise. The,
ruc$ga&, 11 'had I how I ever, gone from mate to boatswain"
wain to, steward, &c, till, like all things conveyed through
many hands, it became distorted, and by the ''time"it rear,
Ilea my ears, had arrived at the appalling an. thatwe were going 
to the bottom.
'Oue good result we perceived from the gale, di&agreea.
I Ule;,~'a4 frialitful enough as 'it was. It cured ("Very one,
on board ~k sea-sickness. I accoun ' ted for this by sup.
pogi,ng it the eflect of the counter~irritation systern : and
that the overpowering evil of mental anxiety, removed tile
leiser one of corporeal uneasiness.
Some little time before Madeira,appeuxed in sigilt, the
weather moderated, and we all began to cheer up; the "book
themselves and lay down in the sun to dry; th, idlers put on
a thin semi-nautical costume, and Nancy, the black woman,
who had been, however, any thing but Meffil daring the
gales, came upon deck to warm herself. In fine weather, she was to be 
seen standing on the steps of (he, companion ladder, listening 
to the rough jokes of the sailors, with her shining black 
face just above the hatchway She was evidently a favourite 
with the inen,and I was often amused to see her standing there, -show.
ing every iybite tooth in her head, as she grinned a repar~.
Ot to ht,,r merry tormentors, Nancy was a wit in her
way, and,, though not in her first youth, was certainly
So I 1"Othing of a coquette, and decidedly vain of her re.
uraining attractions, I can see her now sitting on her
storkingless,heels in the forepart of the vessel, with her
handkerchief tied over her head, chattering Iany magpie. 
This was Nancy when the sea was calm; when the wind blew, 
the case was widely difkren , anti though born and bred 
a slave,,she thought she had as good a, right to indulge 
in sickness and idleness- ag
The air had daily felt wa'rmer as' we proceeded south
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GULF OF MEXICO.
ward, and the power of the sun by, the time we saw
Madeira, was. almost too great to be pleasant. I felt glad to
be 8 axed the Chilling changes of an English winter. 'The
great merit of the climate of the Madeiras, consists I , I be.
iieve, in its freedom from these great sources of suffering
and illness to delicate and pulmonary constitutions. It is
said that while the winter is twenty degrees warmer than
in London, the summer is only seven warmer. Thus Cue
extremes of heat and cold are not nearly So violent as in
England. The latitude of Lisbon appeared also cbarm-'
ing, and were it not for the dirt, and other sma.11 incon.
veniences, I suppose that Lisbon would be quite as desi.
rable a residence for consumptive patients as Madeira; it
has certainly the advantage of being nearer home.
As we neared the land, I felt that one of the worst stages of
our voyage was over. The Bay of Biscay once passed in
safety, the wide Atlantic has but few terrors, and I am
sufficiently of a sailor to be aware of the great"I'll J
advantages of having plenty of sea-room, and no land near.

CHAPTER 11.
First view of Madeira-Funchal-Inhabitants-Vegetation-Vintage-The 
Coural-Sugar-cane-Invalid,Climate-A Madeira goat-Bad 
conduct of three of the crew.
A ship in sight! She bears a dismal freight, No
gay young hearts, with pleasant hopes elate.
Here living ghosts gaze up with languid
eye. And in the fervid sunshine pine and die.
OLD POEM.
WAS MUCh. struck by the first view of Madeira,it, s up
high,. black and steep from the sea, and look-S,At,
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TEXAS AND THE
''t distance ~ like a huge ruined wall. A.s you approach
n I ealrer, however, you perceive with spots of houses - 
the hilI sides, churches, temples, and abrupt ridges of 
mountains which seem literally suspended the most lovely 
gardens All this,mingled with the green foliage and =st, tropical
vegetation, is lovely in the extreme.
sept. 26. {1843/09/26} We brought up in Funchal Roads, in 
twenty.two fathoms water. The weather was extremely hot, 
at it appeared so to us, though this w as the cool season at
Madeira. I need say nothing of the cordial kindness
and unlimited hospitality of the merchants at Funchal the
fact of their liberality and good feeling to strangers is
too well known to need a comment, and our reception
furnished but an extra example of its truth.
A nearer view of Funchal is very amusing to a stranger. The shores are crowded 
with boats, and wild-looking Portuguese gesticulating and quarrelling 
The shape of the boats is remarkable, their sterns are so high 
and pointed. The rowers perform their office in an erect
Posture, and with their faces turned towards the fore part of their craft. 
aildren of very tender years, bronzedby the siin into a deep 
copper colour, are swimming about in all direction,, 
and quite in deep water. he surfice of the . is studded by little black 
sbining heads.In short, the inhab tants generally appear to me to
partake of an amphibious nature.
The houses of Funchal are mostly of a dazzling white, which his a very 
unpleasant effect on the eyes.The roofs; are generally 
flat, but you likewise see many turrets and steeples. , There is an 
English Episcopal Church,and all excellent resident minister. The English 
Library and Reading Club are excellent; there is, too, a public 
ball.room, which is well attended; and in the reading-club I
have before mentioned the amusements of cards and
billiards may also be enjoyed.
I have often been surprised at the fondness for dancing which prevails in 
hot climates; the inhabitants seem to
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GULF OF MEXICO.
ei~joy this exercise the more, the higher the thermometer
ranges. I was told, that in Funchal, during the hottest months, balls were carried 
on with unabated spirit till a &te hour in the morning, and that 
country-dances and Scotch reels were executed with a 
spirit of enterprise and Perseverance unknown in our northern latitudes.
It is indeed a most beautiful, clear, and enliventag climate;
nevertheless, I was certainly astonished at the ,degree of
vigour which the inhabitants sceined to retain. We went on
shore in a Portuguese boat, and I had an opportunity of
comparing, which I always do with peculiar satisfaction, the
superior cleanliness, promptitude, skill, and composure of an
English sailor over his class in every other country. A
Portuguese man-of-war lay alongside of the Dolphin, and the
comparison certainly was not in favour of the former. Such
hallooing and such confusion I never heard, as came wafted
to us from our neighbours. The officers possessed, I am
sure., but, little of the salutary authority necessary to keep
sailors ,to their duty.
We were most kindly received by Mr. Temple, who is a
resident at Funchal, and gladly remained a week in his
comfortable, house. We spent our time very pleasantly in
wandering about the island, which, even at this ad. vanced
period of the year, presents much both of vegeta. tion and
scenery, well worthy of notice. The flowers are ~)eautifhl;
such a proffision of geraniums, fuchsias, and heliotropes, with
the glorious belladonna lily and bright oleander! It is a perfect
wilderness of sweets and brilIiant colours. The human part
of the scenery is, by no ineans in keeping with all this, for a.
more dirty, dis. orderly, uncivilized, population it would be
difficult to imagine. Police there is none, and the noises 
and confusion in the streets, especially at night, are most
disagreeable ; they effectually chase sleep, at~ least from, the
eyes of a new-eomer., Mr. Temple's house is situ'ated,closeto
the gruard-house, and as the sentries are
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TEXAS A*ND THE
noisy" people in tile place, the neighbourhood is not agree,ble, 
One of their favourite amusements at night imitating the
noises and cries ofdifferent animals. Th', alte , roar like bulls,
and gobble like fifty, turkeys. ,ly crow like cocks
Their imitations, I must say, were corree but tile efect was any 
tiling but pleasing. The,appear to be but little religious feeling amow, the,,.
indr-ed their priests seemed to be almost objects of con
ternpt, and tneir places of worship to be nearly neglected.
The squalid poverty you every where meet with is pitiable
and revolting; the children run about almost ill a stato
ofiludity, and, are the ugliest little set Of Nvrethes, excepting,
perhaps, the diminutive old women, I ever saw The Portuguese
inhabitants generally require but a small quantity of food,
and that consists principally of fruits and Indian corn, They
are, though most firequentlY short in Ptature, a very strong 
and hardy race, and their powers ofenduring fatigue are great. 
Of the truth ofthis I had ample proofin my palanquin-bearers, who
under a broiling sun, carried me a sort of ambling Pace to tile
tops of the highest hills, without appearing in the slightest
degree exhaugted, It is true that on arriving at the summits~
they generally begged for a cup of wine at the houses Of' call
which are conveniently placed there. It is, how. ever, to
strangers only that they are in the habit making the application.
'rho vineyards are very pretty ; the vines are trained ver wooden pillars, 
supporting a lattice-work of bamboo~ Tile grapes are dried in the shade, which is said to give them a peculiar richness of flavour. The vine was first
troduced in Madeira in the year 1420, and was brought from the Island of Crete.
The vintage iq inst over, and nurnbers of peasants busily 
employed in bringing down the newly made wine from the vineyards in the 
hills. Some of the men'have immense pigskins, filled with, 
the red % fluid, siun tlicir shoulders, While others are,driving the pretty cream
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Coloured oxen into the town, laden in a similar manner. 
The effect of tile pigskins is quite horrid; they are filled 0 their utmost
extent, even to the legs ; the mouth arid nose, being tied up;
this appearance of being a real animal is rendered still more
unpleasant by the blood-red stains oil the hide of the creature.
The drivers of the wagons, which are of a most simple and
primitive form, are shricking and bellowing all tile while, by way
of oncouraging their beasts, and that with voices unequalled in
tile world, I should imagine, for shrillness and power.
fhe grapes from which the largest quantity of wine is made are
small and extremely sweet; we have taken a large quantity of them
on board, besides bananas, and various sorts ofcommons fruits.
The grapes from which the Malmsey wine is made grow upon
rocks, over which they are trained-they are not gathered till overripe
Among tile many fine views which a stranger at Madeira
should not fail to visit, that of the Coural stands pre, eminent.
The road to this beautiful spot is steep, and Way. It is a valley
completely enclosed by high abrupt hills, none of which are less
than a thousand fect in heighL The road lies alarmingly near tile
edge of the precipices, and is moreover extremely narrow. Tile
horses are, however, so active. and well trained, that no positive
danger exists. A Portuguese runner generally accompanies 
your'horse, encouraging him both by threats 4nd,caresses to
proceed, and often not a little impeding, his progress by hanging
on at his tail. The horses are well shaped, though small, and
particularly adapted to the nature of the country, and tile roads.
The Mount Church, built on extremely high ground, a short
distance from Funchal, cannot be passed unnoticed; tile view of
the town and roadstead front it is most beau.. tifill and curious.
There 'is a large convent, at which' artificial flowers and other sorts
of ornamental work can be procured, besides delicious, liqueurs,
Which tile nuns manufacture in- great variety,.
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24
",The most beautiful flowers and shrubs are found an summits of the hills, 
and the whole appearance of thecountry is rich and luxuriant, far beyond my 
powers of description, The interior of the houses are as enjoy.
able as the gardens are beautiful; the rooms are large,
high, and airy, and the floors during the hot season are,picad with a fine matting; 
very little furniture is admitt4 and the breeze is allowed to circulate fr,,Iy
through the houses.
The dress of the gentlemen is as glaring as the coloar
of the,house.5, being white from head to foot;-jacket of
white linen, sailcloth boots, and trousers of the same.
A large palmetto fiat completes the costume, which if
not becomi ' ng, is well suited to the climate.
I enjoyed my palanquin extremely. The motion is very
easy, and sufficiently rapid, considering the great
inequalities of the ground; I do not think that a horse could
get over the ground quicker. It was some time 1)(~fore I
hardened my heart to the supposed sufferings of the,
bearers, which after all, were entirely imaginary. Englishmen
would, I am sure, sink very soon under the exertion,
besides the natural objection entertained by our countrymen
to being used as beasts of burden.
The sugar-cane grows in considerable quantities, and it
was formerly the staple commodity of the island, bu~ not
proving very productive as an article of commerce, its
culture was abandoned for that of the vine, Coffee, likewise,
though of a most superior kind, is grown but in small
quantities. The coffee-trees are very handsome~ and grovv
to a larger size than even in the West Indies or Cuba.
Vines are found growing at a very great height, some say
nearly three thousand feet above the level of the sea; but,
though even in these elevated situations they bear fiuit, no
wine can he made from it. The chestnuts are cxcellen~ and in
great profusion. There are a good many rabbits and wild
hogs, on the island, but goats mid
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TEXAS AND THEGULF OF MEXICO.

oxen are the most common, as well as tile most useful animals of
which it can boast. Here, for the first time, I tasted that most
indispensable article of (negro) food, the sweet potato. I cannot
say that I approved of it as an adjunct to meat, but roasted like a
chestnut, and eaten hot, it is very tolerable.
I confess that in spite of its bright sun and flowery hills, Madeira has left a 
melancholy impression on my mind. I met so many wasted 
invalids, pale hectic girls, and young men, struggling 
vainly against decay. Oh ! that sad fbat of tile physician who can do no more, 
and despairing of his fee to-morrow," scrids his patient away
to breathe his last in a foreign land! Poor wanderers! I saw their last 
resting-place. , After life's fitful fever they sleep well,"-as well as 
though they reposed under a grassy niound at home. And 
yet-I would wish to have those whom I had loved when living near to me in
death. It is a fancy, and the wise would doubtless call it weak one, but who can 
reason away a fancy, or dogma.  Use on the feelings of the 
heart. I have been assured that consumptive patients at 
Madeira, lose in the chartrit of scenery, and under the 
influence of the climate, a sense of their danger, and the 
precariousness of their existence; that their spirits become 
raised, and that at the last they quietly sink, to eternal rest 
with their sketch-books in their hands, and hopeful 
smiles upon their lips-I doubt 'it-Can, they shut their eyes 
upon the hundreds of fellow-sufferers whom they daily meet? --- or forget 
where fore they are there ? It is a comfortable belief, however,
ibr their friends at home.
But I have not yet done with Madeira, I must say something of its rain, and a 
little more of its sunshine. ,The former falls in great quantities during four months 
year, viz.. -October, November, December, and January. The rain
was described to me as descending in'torrents; yet greatly must
the inhabitants enjoy the Arst refreshing and purifying drops,after the long spell
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TEXAS AND THE
$00hine, The honey is delicious at Madeira; the bees ouch flowers to revel amongst 
that it would be aft4op were it otherwise. The dress of the Portuguese
extremely picturesque ; it consists of a blue jacket covered with silver buttons, 
a little cap On One side otthe head, about the size of a large saucer, a white or
striped shirt~ and very wide trousers.
The anchorage in Funchal Roads is any thing but safe
and more than once during our stay we were in doubt'
whether we should not be obliged to up-anchor and stand'
out I to 8 1 el, although there was not more than half a gale
of wind blowing at the time.
We secured a good stock of turkeys, besides ducks and
fowls, and a very promising goat: the latter~ however,
fulfi1w none of the promises made for her. Mariana,
,jor that as her name) enjoyed the reputation of being oncof
the best of her kind on the island; indeed her Portuguese
owner, having exhausted his vocabulary of praise, vroim;], it
up by saying, that , she was fit to hang in a lady's ear."
This, considering that she was about three fcct high, and
large in proportion, with a most formidable pair of horns,
was saying a good deal. By the inan's ac. count she was a
perfect annuity to him, and we considered ourselves
fortunate in securing her Services. Unluckily for ug, Mariana
was not I a good sailor," (that expression of much meaning)
and from the first She refused her ac. customed aliment, and
would taste nothing, except occa~ siorial Straps of such
food as one would imagine no Sen. sible goat of any
eoundy would have touched. Brandy cherries and birch
brooms she particularly relished ; and - on on(, occasion
when in her awkwardness she upset the mustard-Pot, (in hot
weather we, dined on deck) the con. tents were greedily
devoured. So much for a Madeira goat, but as I could not
willingly revert to her again, I will end her eventful history
here. We bore with her caprices till we arrived at Jamaica,
when we turned he; into the Dockyard, under the protection of the Commodore
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GULF OF MEXICO.
where I believe ber to be at this moment. The little
bullocks must be much better feeders, to judge from the
excellence of the beef; the mutton is by no means so good.
Three of our men took the opportunity of our stay at
Madeira to misconduct themselves sadly, so much so, as to
require the assistance of the local authorities in bringing
them to punishment. They were three of our finest men, and
had hitherto conducted themselves well, at least to outward
appearance, but the cheapness of the wine made it
irresistible, and one night they being more than commonly
noisy in the forecastle, the master sent to order them to be
quiet, and to put out the lights. This, the three men in question
refused to do, and moreover grw so violent and unruly, that
it was found necessary to send for some Portuguese soldiers,
from a schooner lying nearly alongside, to assist in capturing
the delinquents. They were desperate in their resistance,
vowing death and destruction to all on board, and daring the
Doctor, who was armed to the teeth, and all the others in
authority, to approach them. I happened to be on shore, and
know nothing of these occurrences till the following
morning, They were at length safely lodged in a miserable
prison,, on a small insulated rock called the Loo. Here, if
anywhere, repentance was sure to come; and come it did,
but all too late for two of the culprits. These men had made
themselves so obnoxious to the rest of the crew,, and were
moreover such comfiruied manvais sujets, that all idea of
compromise was out of the. question; but with the other man
the case was diffexent; he was a favourite with his
messmates, and there was evidence to prove that he had
been led away by the rest, besides which, be had offended
in a less degree. All things considered, we granted him a
free pardon, while the others were left on the rock, to their
solitude and their remorse.
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I CHAPTER III.
Departure for, the West Indies-Peak of Teneriffe-Dead
Sunday-Barbadoes-Trade Winds-Dearness of provisions, &c.-Frogs and 
grasshoppers-Bridgetown-Miss, Betsey Austin
Now in the fervid noon, tile smooth bright sea Heuvesiglowly, for the 
wand'ring winds are dead Tat $tired it into foam, The 
lonely ship h Roils wearily, and idly flops the 
sails Against the CTeAkil)g masts. The lightest 
sound is lost not on tile ear, and things minute 
Attract theobservaill eye.
Oiv the eighth day from our landing at Funchal, we again
we're , in readiness for sea; it was a lovely su?ilmer, evening,
about seven o'clock, when tile, order was given to up-anchor,
andset sail for the West Indies. The Windlass was manned, and
ao I listened to the jovial chorus Of the crew, as they cheerily
sung at their work, I 'could not help thinking of their late
companions on the lone Loo Rock, and mentally comparing
them to the captive knight of old, in Mrs. Hemans' beautiful
ballad. It wasy J h0i'veve-r, I fear, a sad waste of sentiment.
On the third day from leaving Madeira, we saw on the lee-
bow, the wonderful Peak of Teneriffe, and this at the" immense
distance of one himdred and forty miles! curious aspect it wore,-
a high bank of wilite cloudu seeming to extend itself h-alf.-way
up to the beivi-ens, and-~ that small distind peak Qf land
crowning the whole.
Having been informed at Madeira that we should bave:~ a
fresh northeast wind, which would inrallibly and expe
ditiously waft us to Barbadoes, and also that having Z,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
set our sails, we should not have to shift them till we arrived
there, we were not prepared for the long calm which
followed. A repetition of the words 44 caln) anti fine," varied
only by occasional changes to, 41 light airs and fine," is all I
can find in the logbook for many, days. As for the
employment ofthe hands, it consisted in spreading and 
furling awnings, fitting and mending cutter sails, spinning yarn, 
and washing clothes. As for holy-stoning the decks, I set my face
against that from the first; it is the worst description of
nervous torture of which I ever heard, excepting perhaps,
the infliction of the squeegee, which, as its name 
almost implies, sets every tooth in one's head on edge for a week,
Brooms and swabs are bad enough, but to these I was
obliged to submit.
This, certainly, was not a very animating life; still, what
with fishing for dolphins and bonetas, watching anxiously for
wind, which sometimes came in the tantalizing shape of
cats'paws, time slipped along, though the ship did not. I tasted
one of the bonetas, which the sailors had cooked for
themselves, and very tough and dry it was, A dolphin, which
soon after followed its unwise example, and allowed himself
to be enticed, on board, pr~ve# rather better. We dressed up
our namesake with wine and other condiments, and he was
pronounced to b,,61 not bad;" still I greatly doubt if we should
have al~ lowed him even this scanty Inced of praise, had a
turbot or John Dory been within reach.
And now, having brought my readers into a dead calm, or,
as I have learnt to say in America,-afi--,--1 think it high time
to apologise for inflicting upon them any fuller account
of'such a tedious time. I ought to remember that wise remark
of Rochefoucauld, that -4 Vextrdme plaisir que nous prenons
~, parler de nous-m6mes, nous doit faire craindre de nen
donner,guhv b, ceux',1qui nous Ocoutent." Still, as a long
continuance of calm weather at sea is an aeknowledg~d trial
both to the temper and spirits, I have thought it better to give some account
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TICXAS A" THE
which we endured it, for the benefit of adventurous persons, who may 
hereafter be disposed to f,)I.low as; and brave the dangers 
of the wide Atlantic i., yacht. But to return to our voyage. The exceeding beauty 
Of the stars and sky within the tropics, has been often described, Nit had I not 
witnessed their nightly glory, my imagination never could have 
done thorn justice. A h)ucly ship in tire wide ocean must ever, I think, be a source 
of poetical feeling, even to the coldest fancy : but the calm
and -quiet of the sensation -is raised to a trusting and 
almost holy train of thought, when the heat of the day being
over, and the blazing sun gone down to his rest, you lie beneath that canopy studded 
with most brilliant stars, and feel with the poet, a longing
I " to tread that golden path of rays That ge~ms to lead to some 
bright isle of rest," One particularly quiet breezeless day, a shark gave
us, a good deal of employment and amusement. lie was
swimming about the ship for hours, with the pretty little
pilot fish playing about his monstrous nose. Every sort of
bait, from salt junk to tempting candies, was offered for
big acceptance, and rejected. The monster e4ently wao
not hungry, for,though he smelt at them all, nothing
would induco'him to nibble at the baited hook. Once
only they succeeded in hooking him, but he very soon
broke away. Towards the evening, however, he grew
more sociable, and condescended to eat some biscuit
which I threw to him over the side. Ile was; an enormous creaturc~ at least ten 
feet in length. I'liere wail something very unpleasant in 
the idea of this borridl 11 creature following in our 
wake," and though I did not share inlhe sailors' 
superstition of their being harbingers of death;, "Yot I looked at 
him with great distaste, feeling. that he w4i thirsting for our blood.
We saw flying fish in great numbers; they flew on
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GULF OF MEXICO.
board at night, and were found in the morning on deck and in
the chains, being attracted by the light. latethem for breakfast, and
found them delicious ; like a herring in flavour and consistency,
but more delicate.
While copying my journal in England, on a positively winter's
day in the month of June, dark, drizzling, and cheerless, how
strange it appears that I ever could have disliked the sun, in the
way I did, in.the Tropics. often, in the morning, did I 
then find myself exclazz against its scorching rays. At six 
o'clock, and often even at an earlier hour, I was on deck, driven up by the 
intolerable heat of the cabin,which being below the surface 
of the water, was necessarily  hotter than it was above. It was 
contrary to all orders to spread the awning, before the decks were 
swabbed up, so I had ample, leisure for complaint. There 
was that terrible sun again; not a cloud above or around, but 
one xvide canopy of blue over our heads; nothing to break the 
line of the horizon, and the azure sea, shining as crystal, with its 
long wearying swell, Yes! there was the perpetual sun glaring on 
us through the long day, and  still more fiercely in the fervid
.noon; the winds asleep, and the ship rolling,lieavi her creaking
masts, and idly-flapping sails. One day was so like another, that
sometimes weariness almost took, the place of hope: 
When will it end?" I used to exclaim, When will there be a cloud ?" 
It put, me in mind of Coleridge's beautiful description of a 
calm, in the Ancient Mariner." And truly the schooner did look like a 
painted ship upon a painted sea."
31st.  Light breezes,, liardly'more than "cat's paws, but the gave
us hope. The look-out man reported a sail on the lee-bow. All
eyes were strained to catch a view of the vessel, as she gradually
neared us. She proved to be a small brig, and hoisted English colours. She 
commenced making signals, and our master deciding that she 
wished to speak us, we slightly 'altered, course, to facilitate her 
object, Her only reason for near.
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TEXAS AND THE
ing us appeared to be to ascertain our longitude, which
we chalked it on the outside of the bulwark, she proceeded on her 
way. The sight of this ship Was quite an event, and gave us matter Of discussion 
for the r;st of the day. if I had followed my inclinations 1should have entered into 
conversation with her, so eagerly did ol. the, sight of fresh objects: and I felt 
quit., Mprised, it the Oliathy with which she passed us by,
when ; o'er the silent seas alone, For days and nights we've cheerless 
gone, Ohl, they who've felt it, know how sweet, Some sunny
morn a sail to meet.

During all this time the heat was intense, the thermometer ranged from 88 to 96 
under the awning, and there was no wind to refresh us. 
The only manner in which I could procure a breath of 
air, was by spreading a mattrass on the deck, between the 
ports, which were left open. vss fortunate that the yacht 
contained a large suplily of water, as from the unexpected 
length of the passage, brid the intense heat, an unusual 
quantity was daily consurned, Had the calm lasted much longer, however, 
we must have had an allowance of water; as it was, indeed, our
fresh provisions began to run short, and turkeys and fowls
were anxiously counted over, and cared for.
There was much difficulty, after a time, in finding employment for the ship's 
company, and as it is well known that the only metho& of 
keeping sailors out of mischief and free from grumbling, is 
never to let them be idle, all kinds of work were resorted to.
The men, in fact, were seldom left in repose; they were
always either spinning yarn, making mats, scraping cables,'
Cleaning guns, or occupied in some task of a similar nature. ,
We'did not quite follow the example of Arnerican ships in
which it is said of the sailors, that
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Six days they labour, and do all that they are,able,
-And on the seventh, holystone the decks, and scrape the cable."
Sunday, of course, was a day of rest, and idleness; on ihat day the
men, clad in their light clean drcsscs~ after attending prayers on
deck, lay listlessly about the forecastle : the best, and those most
religiously inclined, (and sailors are often so, in spite of their
reckless manners) were seen reading their Prayer Books, or some
sober book from the qbip's library; others were poring over old
scraps Of newspapers, or letters, which from their long-folded
creases, were evidently the much and lon o, prized missives of
their wives, or fiiends in distant 'England. Thus, Sunday passed
away, but on week-days the evenings were cheered by a fiddler,
and enlivened by song. Music, such as , charmed the spirits of
the deep," was heard, from the forecastle, and in default of better
and more, refined strains, shortened our silent way. One of the
performers, the steward's inate, who boasted of having been , on
the stage" 'at an earlier period of his life, had a 'beautiful voice, and 
really sung very tolerably.  sailor's ditties arevery mournful things, not at 
all like the JOYOUS chorusses I bad imagined them to be ; and I 
often longed Ao give them some new and more lively airs, to vary 
their monotonous concerts.  Still, though we scarcely appeared to move, we 
cer progressed a little, for after a most tedious passage thirty days, I was told we 
were" within a hundred miles of Barbadoes. This was indeed 
most welcome intelligence, as we intended to make that island. 
On the, afternoon of this day, when at least eighty miles from 
any land, a hawk was perceived flying round the ship
How glad I was to see. him! Poor thing! Ile was very as well he
might be, after his long aerial journey., After performing a
fbw feeble evolutions, and alighting occasionally on
diffcrent parts of, the rigging, he settled
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TEXAS AND THE
on the foreyard-arm, and being quite exhausted, as-easily I taken. The creature 
did riot live through the~ night Ife was a kestrel, and a 
very fine one. In consideration of its long flight, and from a feeling of,
cratitude, as having been tile first harbinger of land,
his skin worthy preserved, for the Purpose of stuffing, and it was put 
into tile menagerie accordingly.
At six oclock in the morning of the 2d of November {1843/11/02} we
were within a very few miles of the land. Barbadoes, is a very low island, and does 
riot strike one with f~(~Jing of either wonder or admiration. You see a few
whitc.looking, houses on the slight elevations. The sight
of tropical trees, cocoa, palms, &c., must always be ir,
tcresting to one who sees them for the first time. About
eight o'clock we made Bridgetown, and at ten, brought up in Carlisle Bay, in 
seven fathom water, 
Nancy, the negress, gave me, immediately on our arrival, a fresh proof that 
nervous fancies are not confinct! to fine or even white 
ladies. Immediately after we had come to an anchor, her 
conduct was most remarkable, she commenced running wildly 
about the deck, evidently under die inflaence of some 
nervous panic. Every one, she met she 'informed with 
striking marks of dismay on her countenance, that she must be 
near her end, for that she ' had a loud and terrific sound, in her ears, which she
rsua ed was the result of some fatal malady. The men only laughed her, and 
at length she appealed to me for advice and consolation. 
I was too merciful to keep her longer in suspense, and told her what every one'
in tile shili inight have done, had they not enjoyed 1,10r,
tribulation, that the noise she thought exclusively hei"I'
own, proceeded from myriads of frogs and grasshoppers
which wo distinctly heard, though at a considerable distance from the, land.
The first interesting object which claimed our attela tioll
was an English man-of-war, the Imaum.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
arrived a few hours before us, and was lying at anchor. We
had taken up our position close to her, and on comparing
notes, we found that her passage from Madeira had been as
long as our own. 
I became almost persuaded, by this now instance of delay,
of the. truth of what I had previously suspected, that the
existence of trade.winds is a vulgar error, a sort of
travellers' wonder. It was a constant demand of the doctor's, -
Where is the trade-wind ?" and a standing joke on board,
that it had gone out of its course to annoy us. It was sorne
consolation to find that we had companions in misfortune,
and to make quite sure that the winds of heaven, and not the
little Dolphin, had been in fault.
We were soon surrounded by boats, filled with individuals of every shade of black, 
brown, and yellow, The black ladies, dressed in white, 
and adorned with the most brilliant colours, glass-bead 
necklaces, with gaudy handkerchiefs tied round their 
heads, were Chattering and laughing, bargaining and 
coquetting, but still comporting themselves with a. dignity, and 
an air of grandeur, which Aowed thern duly Conscious of 
their claim to respect, in being 1 true 'Badian born."
I began to believe that, as they themselves assert,
"'c"You must go to Barbadoes to larn manners." I was
much amused by these freed bondswomen; they,
came upon the quarter-deck without any ceremony
walked down into the cabin, and made themselves quite at home
Negroes brought alongside such fruits as the island afforded
they were poor enough. Having praise of the West India fruits, I was 
digoqe I saw. There were bad oranges worse grapes, no pines, at which we felt, 
ourselves muc~ shaddocks, guavas, cocoa-nuts, and bananas,
indifferent. Still, notwithstanding the want of flavoAr
ontents, the fruit baskets were immediately
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TEXAS AND THE
emptied by our men, who seemed greatly to enjoy the,
sour Oranges and tasteless cocoa-nuts. Aix 'mine""
quantity of grass was also purchased by them, for the'
purpws, of mi&kirLg hats. These hats, which they make,
with much ingenuity, I expected would be both light and
cool; they however turned out to be neither. They sew
the plaits so closely together, that all such purpose is de.
feated. As an addition to the original weight, many
sailors put on a covering of canvass, and paint it thickly over,
After inquiring the price-, of various necessaries, we
Made the discovery, when too late that we had colue to
the wrong island for supplies, every thing we required
being both indifferent and expensive. Barbadoes, I was,
told, imports almost every thing from Tobago and Martinique, and it was to St. 
Pierre, the capital of the, latter island, that we ought to have 
betaken ourselves. Beef and mutton are tenpence a pound 
at Bridgetown, and water, of which we required a 
considerable supply, a dollar a cask. Turtle are brought from Tobago, cattle
6om the Costa firma, and fruit and vegetables from Antigua and Martinique. 
still, it is well known, that the island of Barbadoes afflords 
provisions of many "orts, which are raised on its own soil, 
though unfortunately for us, they were not the kinds 
we required. I believe, the exports of Sugar average 
about 300,000 cwts, annually.
Barbadoes is said to be one of the healthiest of the West
India Islands ; nevertheless, in spite of the prevalent
opinion, I confess that the country gave me the idea of
being any thing but salubrious, principally from its, lowness,
and also from the immense number of frogs and
grasshoppers, which we heard throwing out their various
notes in all directions. This alone gives an idea of
marshiness and dampness, which precludes that of
health  Barbadoes was ove of the first, if not the very first of Caribbean Islands 
colonized by the Fuglish. For several
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GULF OF MEXICO.
years during the early part of the seventeenth century, the
Earl of Carlisle was hereditary proprietor of the island, by
virtue of a grant obtained from James the First, After the
Restoration, it became the property of the Crown, The
coloured population seem to me to be tolerably well off,
and not very idle.
We went on shore in the cool of the evening, having
appointed a carriage to be in waiting for us at the landing.
And such a carriage and horses! It was wonderful, from
their appearance, how they contrived to go at all, but go
they did, and at a tremendous pace. In vain I implored the
negro driver to rein in his steeds. I believe he was
revenging himself upon them for the previous drivings he
had himself undergone in his own proper person, for he
flogged away most unmercifully.
Bridgetown is a long straggling town. There are no
striking-looking buildings in it, but the streets are in go 
neral broad, and the houses white; there is a disagreeable smell 
of cocoa-nut oil, but otherwise the city gives you a pleasant
impression of freshness and cleanliness, particularly when
compared with Funchal, the last town we had seen. There
are several churches and Chapels,, and a cathedral, 
besides several buildings for charitable purposes. The 
population of Bridgetown is about twentytwo thousand. On leaving the
town, and the pretty gardens which surround it, our road lay
for serveral miles through an extremely flat country. There
is very little, wood on the island; some mahogany, cocoa-
trees, and palms, and also a good many shrub-, but
the~country is in general very bare. The flowers,however, are beautiful; the 
datura scented the evening air, and. fuchsias and heliotropes 
drooped over the garden walls.
Oxen are more used as beasts of burden than horses', but
the meat is not good. We were told, that at 1ho proper
season there is plenty of shooting, consisting of plover, teal,
wild duck, &c. Aloes are very cultivated, to judge from the number of plants 
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TEXAS AND THE
the sides of the roads; the ginger is not reckoned so
gooi as that grown in Jamaica There is a great deal of land
still uncultivated, Towards the north, the country becomes 
much highert and is comparatively cold. This part,is known by the 
appropriate name of Scotland, and it must be a welcome 
change to the scorched inhabitants Of, the South, to, 
refresh themselves occasionally by in, haling. its invigorating breezes.
Rum is very dear in Barbadoes,, at least good rum,
such as English sailors ljke~ The proportion of black
and Coloured people to White is about six to one, of
which by far the greatest number are black,
The barracks are large, convenient, and airy. We returned by a different road 
from the one by which we left tile capital, and after driving through a
considerable, por. tiort of the town, we visited the parade-ground, where the band 
of the ninety-second regiment was playing for the amusement of some
half dozen Coloured people, on foot, who were looking on. I noticed one or two 
ladies on horseback, and Colonel M'Donald, who accompanied them, told us, for
our satisfaction, that the season had been, and was particularly healthy; the men, 
however, looked, I thought weakened and worn. We then pursued, oar
drive as far as the Government-House. Here I was rather entertamed at our 
black charioteer, who, pointing out to our notice al,,Iirge building surrounded
by iron railings, and guarded by a sentry, informed us that it was the - Queen's 
House, all kep fine, furnish, ready for do Queen hersef, when she come to see
'Badian people," Be seemed t6 entertain no doubt of the Queen's intention of 
crossing the Atlantic. and evidently was rather surprised that her majesty had
not taken an earlier opportunity of visitingr-this interesting portion of her subjects,
Still, after all there was to be seen at Bridgetown, I should be almost inclined to 
think, from the oft.rc~ate" question which was addressed to me afterwards Did
you see Betsey Austin?" that that worthy lady is the
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GULF OF MEXICO.
principal attraction of the place. Betsey, or Miss Betsey
Austin, as she is called, is a person of' considerable importance, who keeps the principal hotel at Bridgetown. She has a large acquaintance amongst 
naval men, and is justly celebrated in Captain Marryatt's delightful novel Of "Peter
Simple;" she assured us she owed much of her present
prosperity to the work in question, and seemed duly grateful
to the author. 11 He berry nice man, Captain Marryatt."
Betsey may have her little faults, as who has not, but she
must have a kindly heart in. her capacious person from all I
have heard. Miss Caroline Lee her sister, is, mistress of
another hotel in the town, and makes better preserves of all
kinds than any one else in the island. We took in a large
supply of livestock, such as turtle, turkeys, guinea fowls, a6d ducks. 
Two of out sailors became embroiled in a quarrel at one of the spirit shops at 
Bridgetown ; and one of tbern, the carpenter, after a hard fight, 
passed a night in prison. I do not believe they were much in 
fault, but the coloured population of Barbadoes is notorious for seeking quarrels
with English sailors; and, they, as is well known, have no particular objection to a row 
at any time. On lecturing the carpenter, who was a Scotchman, for the folly, of his
conduct, which had consigned him, "to the hands of the police and caused him to 
spendti.-pight in prison, he replied, it If I had been mysel, 
it'~~the dozen of them '-should have ta'en me,"
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TEXAS AND TRE
CHAPTER IV.
Storm at Sea Lightning.-Flying-Fish- Iron Lighthouse Jamaica
-Port-Royal - Harbour- Earthquake of 1692 Pirates-
Commodore Byng's House-Wallace, the Newfoundland Dog-
Musquitoes-coloured and While Popula. tiou-Spanish
Town-The Queen's House-Kingston Unwll,)Iesome Climate -
Vultures - Superstition-" The Doctor'l-Sally Adams-Departure.

There is a bondage worse, far worse to bear Than his Who breathes, by 
roof, and floor, and wall, pent in, a tyrant , solitary thrall.
WORDSWORTH.
Nov. 4. {1843/11/04} Left Carlisle Bay at 5 o'clock P. m. The Imaum, a line-of 
battle ship, had weighed her anchor five hours previously, and 
we hoped to have the ,,pleasure of her company" on the way, 
a sail being at all times a welcome sight at sea.
Nov. 5 {1843/11/05} Shortened sail to a squall, tool-, in a. reef 
in, mainsail double-reefed fore-trysail.
Nov 6. {1843/11/06} Strong winds, thunder and lightning, treble reefed
foresail. How impossible it is in words to give an, idea , of the
grandeur, the fearful magnificence, of a storni at sea! What a
variety, are there, of stirring and deafening sounds, filling the
mind with mingled feelings of admiration and awe! 
There is the sl) rill treble of the wind, whistling its fractious way
through the rigging, joined with the never-ceasing roar of the
foaming and angry, sea, while the deep bass of the gradually
nearing thunder is heard distinct above it all. The sea is one
wild chaos. ofmountains mountains never for one instant still
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GULF OF MEXICO.
receiving us deep into a fearful hollow, from which it seems as though we never could 
rise again; and now carrying us over their summit only to be dashed with
greater fury into the raging abyss below. And how manfully
the little schooner rides over the frantip waves! How lightly
she rises again, and how carelessly she dashes the water
from her bows as she passes on, unbarmed, over the
troubled waters! If a heavier sea than usual breakq, and
you hear the dull heavy blow against her side, there is a
tremble, a quiver, as though the poor little thing were
striken to the heart; it is, however, but for a moment, and
the little Dolphin is bounding on again as proudly as before.
Oh ! there's a holy calm profound In awe like this, that ne'er was 
given To pleasure's thrill ; 'Tis as a solemn voice from heaven, And the soul 
listening to the sound, Lies mute and still."
It would be a cold heart, I think, that would not feel an absolute affection for a ship 
that has carried one in safety through perils such as those, She seems so like a
thing of life, and I am sure I have parted with many a soi.disaut friend with 
infinitely les , s regret , than I shaIl experience when I look my last 
Oil a safe and happy little schooner.
Two nights before we arrived at Jamaica, the lightning was most vivid. The sky 
scomed to open,and to have changed its ordinary hues for a covering offlame
while every moment, on this brilliant ground, the red zigzag forks darted out their angry 
tongues of fire like some fierce and goaded animal. For 
hours I gazed on his most magnificent sight; I could not 
make up my, mind to go below, though the rain began to 
p i torrents., 'No one who has not witnessed a storm 
of thunder and lightning in tropical climates, eaA fibirn an 
idea 6 f the mingled beauty,
[end of page f390h68_041.gif]

and terror of the effect. For all the world I would not have missed the sight, terrifi 
I e and awe-inspiring a. it was
T~wards night the'tempest was at its height, and th
sound of the contending elements, as if roaring for their
prey, deadened the voice of man. suddenly a noise more 
stunning than the rest struck upon the ear. it was the
electric fluid against the maininast ; the sound it made
Was like that of two hands clapping, but five hundred
timesasloud. Our mast was only saved from destruction,
and with it, doubtless, our own lives, by the circumstance, ofthe rigging 
being wet, and acting as a conductor, by which means the 
fluid was conveyed over the side into the sea. One ofthe most remarkable
occurrences during the storm was one which affected
my own person. At the same time that the mast was
struck, I felt a warni and most peculiar sensation down
my hand, and immediately mentioned the circumstance.
for many hours aftcrwards, a deep red mark, about six
inches in length, and one in breadth, was plainly to be
seen in the. place where I bad felt the heat,,and what I
should describe as almost pain, As I was standing in the
direction in which the lightning passed,'it is to he
supposed that I received at the saine time the slight6st
possible shock. The escape we all had from this worst
of dangers was great and providential in. deed. In a
small vfssel, once on fire, with a large quantity
of gunpowder on board, our destruction must have been
in_ evitable, had not the Power which had sustained Us
so long among the dangers of the deep, stretched forth
a hand of deliverance over us.
During the night, the gale continued with unabated fury.,
To sleep was impossible, and as I lay in my cot, rocked
from side to side, and longing for daylight, I heard a
strange and unaccustomed sound outside my cabin door.
Ongoing:_~',,' out to ascertain from whence it proceeded, I
found soule flying-fish, which had come down the
companion-ladder with the wind and spray, flapping their
delicate wings on
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GULF OF MEXICO,
the oil-cloth it was a strange situation for flying-fish 
to find themselves in ! The, Imaum was near us during the gale, and at night 
we occasionally burnt blue-lights, which to me was very cheering.
Nov. 8. {1843/11/08} Squally, with heavy rain. Under troble-reefed
topsails.
9th. {1843/11/09} We were rounding Morant Point. Oh, what a $well
was there. Ilow we were thrown about. For the first and
only time the cook requested a diminution of the daily
number of dishes, and the sound of breaking crockery was
heard playing its destructive accompaniment to the sound
of tile storm.
A lighthouse, which was not mentioned in any of the
nautical books, caused some surprise to those on board who
had been in the West Indies before. This lighthouse, which
was an iron one, and one hundred feet high, had, we
afterwards found, been sent out not long before from,
England.
During the whole of the 10th, {1843/11/10} the highlands of 
Jamaica were in sight. We passed over the ancient town of Port
Royal, which now lies full fathom five" buried beneath 
the sea; and soon after noon of the 11th, {1843/11/11} we entered the
harbour of its successor of tile same name. We went in
without , a pilot, in. a gale of wind, and going at the rate of
twelve knots an hour. The Dolphin, as usual, behaved
beautifully, answering to ber helm, and dashing through
~the troubled waters in most perfect style. The rain was
pouring down in torrents, such rain as is, seldom seen except within the tropics. In 
these latitudes, it seems not so niuch to descend in drops, as 
in a positive sheet of water. The bcst~of Mackintoshes are 
no protection from its violence; they are wet through in five minutes. An
experienced resident in this climate recommended a thick
blanket as the best dress in which to encounter, these
storms. The town of ]Port Royal owes its origin to, General
[end of page f390h68_043.gif]

Brague in the year 1657. fie first discovered its advantage as a military 
position. Its safe and splendid harbour and tile opportunities 
it afforded for commerce, Very soon raised it to a pitch of wealth 
and prosperity unsurpassed by any other of our West India possessions, Its
greatest Source of Wealth, however, seems to have been
owing to the plunder deposited there by the buccaneers.
Gold, silver, jewels, laces, and all the riches ofthe Spanish
possessions in America, were constantly brought there.
and it would be impossible to form any idea of the immense value ofthe spoils, Port 
Royal reached its highest p~jtch of prosperity about 1692 and it 
is froni that year that its gradual decay may he 
dated. A tremendous earthquake overthrow, and buried 
beneath the waves, all the principal streets ofthe once 
flourishing city of Port Royal, Thousands perished through this 
awful calamity, and the waves of the restless sea rolled, over the once splendid
and handsome buildings of the' doomed city. There are, some who declare 
that the steeple ofthe principal church may still be seen many 
fathoms under water in a calm day
It was melancholy to reflect on the frightful loss, of life,
and of the~,humbers of human beings whose bones ,Were
Arewin Ahe bottom of the harbour, in which we were now
securely floating. The sharks swim carelessly over ficailg of
treasure, and mounds of gold. I have oftea wondered why
some of our speculators, who in other part& of the world
employ their energies in fishing for treasure, have, not
endeavoured to rescue some of these buried riches from the
bottom ofthe deep.
The gloryand prosperity of Port Royal seem to have departed
for ever. Scarcely, after this fierce and terrible earthquake, hadthe
remaining inhabitants recovered floni ti-ir Panic, and restored a
few ofthe streets to somethint, of their foriner stitot when the ill-
fated town waik again destroyed by fire. Two hurricanes, 'One in
1722, and another in 1744, successively razed it to the ground.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Jamaica always been famous as the resort of pirates the places of historical 
interest, as regards these adventurers, Cow Bay stands pre-eminent- It
n the year 1681, an engagement was fought the Governor, Sir Henry 
Morgan, and Everson Dutch pirate. The force of the latter consisted
of but two ships, one of which was taken, and the pirate killed. The other 
vessel escaped. The crew of the one which was taken 
were, desperate, and f6ught bravely for their lives. Those who were not killed in
action were executed on the shore, All the men were English. Some years after 
this occurrence, the neighbourhood of Fort Royal was visited by a wbolo. fleet of
I rates, -who then infested these soas. The barbarities 
they committed along the coast, upon such of the harmless
and inofFensive inhabitants who were so unfortunate fall within their reach, are 
described as dreadful, and for miles around, they desolated the country by 
fire and sword.
There is certainly great beauty in the surrounding Country, but Port Royal 
itself is as ul, as~a town -can be. Immediately after our arrival, our kind friend
Commodore Byng, sent to invite us to make his house our
home during our stayin the island. The 4or was gladly accepted, and we were soon 
landed at the dockyard, under sun. No sooner had we left 
the yacht, than tic sailors and all, threw off their clothes, and plunged into the
water. The master, of course, ordered them in#tant on board again; 
their escape, from the jaws of innumerable sharks which 
here infest the water was almost miraculous. 'The thoughtlessness of sailors 
is really wonderful. The Commodore's house is most comfortable
Never shall I forget the delightful relief, it, "afforded, aftor undergoing 
the intense heat of the sun's rays, as they pierced through the insufficient 
barrier of  r-deck awning. On shore, we enjoyed exceed.
green Jalousies through which the sea-breeze
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TExAS AND THE
blew refrerhingly; and then the delicious iced water, luxurious sofas
and rocking-chairs! I repeat, change was most delightful, The day after our 
arrival a sad tragedy occurred, at least it was a. tragedy to MY
beautiful young Newfoundland dog~ Wallace, fetched and
carried as no dog ever did before, and whm spirits and good-
humour rendered him a favourite wberever~ he went swam on
shore in high health and spirits; vhii, houndin~ about in the
exuberance of delight at havin(t escaped from the confinement
of the ship, lie suddenly fei down in a fit, having, as we
supposed, received a coop de Soleii. His sufferings, poor
'fellow, were soon over, and jee was buried in a corner of the
dockyard. I grieyed F,,r him at the time, and greatly missed
his honest greeting, when I returned on board.
The view from the Commodore's house is Inter Cocoa-nut trees waved their 
hearse-like tops to tile breeze close to its walls, and within a 
stone's throw lay tile old Magnificent." Further off, we 
descried the delicat, masts of our own little Dolphin, while 
the flag of the goad ship Imaum was floating in tbe distance~ 
The opp`os6 land was clearly to be discerned. Up and down, hero, 
the house, paced the black sentry, calling the hours they 
came round, and the bells of the various ships echoed, his cry.
The house, like most of those in tropical climates, raised
from the ground on high pillars. This "node architecture not
only renders the apartments much cooler.~ but serves those
who inhabit them, in from 'the attacks of insects and reptiles. Every 
expedient,,,' is resorted to for protection from the bites detestable 
mosquitoes; notwithstanding which, in couiroon with 
new-comers, I found thein most annoying. niuch the. actual pain 
of the sting, at the time as the aggravation of it afterwards, that 
is so trying and itt climate, where the slightest scratch often becomes
serious affair, the irritation produced by a musquito bite
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GULF OF MEXICO.
often attended with bad, and even dangerous results.
Two of our inen were in the hospital for some time, in
coxisequence of the venornous bites of these vicious little
Creatures.
We had been much surprised at the dearness of every th
ng at Barbadoes but we were more astonished, front the
same cause, at Port-Royal. Mutton, bad and dry, 1:10d. a
pound; a turkey, Z1. 5s.; and a, small bottle of milk, Is, 
6d.  Eggs are (id. each, and all other necessaries of life in proportion.
The residents told us it was impossible to open one's
mouth, for the purpose of eating, under a dollar, and we
found no great difficulty in believing. them. Sugar is much
dearer than in England, and I need not add, much ,worse, as
it is well known that the refining process of the best is
carried on in the ,old country."
Jamaica, to ray idea, presents the melancholy picture of a
land whose prosperity has passed away. Indolence i~&, I
think, the principal characteristic of the inhabitants ''of this
island at the present day, but it does not appear ,that one
hundred and fifty years ago they were much more inclined to exertion 
than they are now  You see people of every bue, Creoles 
or natives, whites, blacks, and Indians; the latter with 
varieties of the species., These is a regular rule here 
by which to discover and to class the different castes, 
and to ascertain the exact proportion of black blood which 
runs in the veins of each. I could not understand, without 
taking more trouble than I thought the subject worthy 
of, the complicated classification, which is almost 
reduced to a science here; butit is of iniportance, to judge 
front the pains bestowed upon it.
The Creole is generally handsome', and well made, but
from indolence, and other causes, they, are apt to become
corpulent. They are said to be irritable, but genorous~ and
kind-hearted, and their love of expense and show is', ~great.
Now, however, they possess, generally spe*ng,',
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TEXAS AND THE
but vely little of the means necessary to enable thern to
indulgoin their favourite tastes and pursuits. That the
Creoles have been losers to a large ainount by the abolition of the slave trade, there 
can be no doubt; and bat little, that the prosperity of the 
island generally, its trade and resources, have gradually 
declined. I think it were than questionable, whether 
the slaves themselves ha,~,o found a greater aggregate of happiness sine, 
their freedom I was declared. They wander about now in rage
and destitution; idleness is their occupation, and drunkenness
their striking vice.
There is a look ' of hopeless indolence about the, Coloured
population, which I did not reinark in any of the other
countries we visited. At Barbadoes, there appears to be
some cleanliness, and some self respect, which is visible
in their manners, and in their attention to dress, and the,
adormnent of their persons : here, on the contrary, they
rwevi thoroughly degraded. On my first arrival, finding
walking, and even riding oil horseback, too great an ex,
c-tion in such a climate, I inquired of a lady who was
Paying me a visit, and who had been some time in the
country, whether there were not palanquins for tile use of
individuals, who, like myself, were unaccustomed to the""!
climate ? She shook her head, There is not a man in
the island," was the reply, ,who would consent to degrade
hinigelf by becoming a palanquin-bearer ! And these
people but yesterday were slaves! What they might be,
feul liberty been bestowed upon them gradually, and in a
more judicionfli manner, I cannot say; but I have Often,
thought, that had each man been allowed to work out his
liberation, tile boon would have appeared more valuible.'
aus we rarely prize that which has caused us no difficulty in the attainment. A still 
more important result would have been, that a second 
nature, the well-known fruits at habit, would have been 
acquired; and certainly present condition is not - 
good, as not to make any ot very desirable,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
After writing, all this, it has occurred to me, that the same
thing has been said before, and much better than I !can say
it; but let it go. It is truth, I believe,which is always
something in this false generation. No subject, 
and now I am writing about truth, I may say it, no subject
has ever afforded a stronger proof of the depth at which
this virtue lies buried, than that of slavery, That there were
some who abased their power over the negroos, there can, I
fear, be no doubt; at the same time it, is equally true, that the
rare instances of oppression were greatly magnified by the
morbid sensibilities, and sickly sentimentalities of well-
meaning abolitionists.
I was made so very comfortable at the house of the hospitable Commodore, that I 
can say nothing, by experience, of the discomforts attending a residence on the
island. The Governor, Lord Elgin, with whom we had ,the
pleasure of being previously acquainted, gave us the kindest
invitation te~ pay him a few days' visit at his residence
among the hills. I did not feel equal to the journey, which
must be performed on horseback, and commenced at five in
the morning in order to avoid the- heat of the sun, but I greatly regretted not being 
able to see more of the interior of the island.
Our first excursion was to Spanish Town. The route
to Port Henderson from Port Royal is by water; it is
about six miles from the latter place. It is very much to
be deplored that the religious edifices, erected by.the
Spaniards here, should, have been so little respected by
the English, who succeeded them. Whether from fanatical.
fury, oT other causes, they have been mostly destroyed,
or suffered to fall into gradual decay. Spanish Town is
irregularly built, and, partly perhaps from the glare of
the white houses, appeared to me still more oppressive
than Port Royal.
The town is built on rather high ground, sloping towards
the shore; and as there, is no marshy land between it and the
sea, the refreshing sea-breeze blows health over the
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I TEXAS AND THE
town. Spanish Town is long and narrow; its buildings
may extend to,about a mile in length. There is a church
anda chapel. The former is,handsome; the pews, pulpit
&c., are oi cedar, and the aisles are paved with marble'
'The chapel stands near the Governor's house; and not 
off is the guard house, where a party of regular
soldiers are always on duty. The Queen's house
occupies one side-ofa large square. It was' built in 1762
andis on of tile finest of the kind in the West Indies. The
length of the facade is two hundred feet, and it is of
,oost beautiful freestone, which in this clear air, and
smokeless climate, retains its Whiteness throughout all
time, 
Tile Hall of Audience is a fine well-proportioned saloon about seventy-five by 
thirty feet. Some Part of this immense building is 
appropriated to public dinners, balls &c. The Assembly 
Chamber, or Common House, is about eighty feet in length, by forty in
breadth; there is a raised Platform at one end, which is
lined with seats for members, The chair of the Speaker is raised a little 
higher than the rest. Here, among the legislative assembly, 
are to be seen both black and white faces, The former direct, with the,
white inhabitants, tile affairs of the island;, and I am told, that among them, are one 
or two intelligent men.
It will, indeed, be a work of time and , difficulty to restore Jamaica to any thing 
like its former prosperity; correct the abuses which have crept into its
government, and to restore confidence among all classes. The state of 
thingsis,however, improving, and may it continue to do so. Lord 
Elgin is exerting himself to further these desirable ends and the universal
popularity, and esteem vVith which lie is regarded, as well as the, prospect of 
success, . must choer him, while devoting. !his,- talents and energies in this
formerly, I Imost hopeless cause.
'I'he Hospital stands at the east end town, near,. the river. The situation 
appeared to me to be ill chosen
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GUTIF or MEXICO,
for the purposes of health. Great care, however, is taken
of the sick, and large sums of money are granted in order to
defray the expenses,of their support, and the cost of medical aid.
The market of Spanish Town is well supplied with fish, and black crabs, which are 
really delicious, and with tolerable poultry, milk, fruits, vegetables, &c. I have
compared the prices of some of the necessaries of life
before the abolition of slavery, with what they are at
present, and I find them now very much higher; in many
cases, nearly two-thirds.
Turtle lia,; not changed much in price; we Found it the
cheapest food, as it is also the best, in Jamaica; and we ate
it in all shapes, cutlets, roasted, grilled, and made into
soups, till we were quite tired of it.
There is a fine range of hills, north, and northwest of the
town. Among these, are the pens, or villas of the rich
inhabitants, who go there occasionally to enjoy health and,
coolness. The country is most beautiful; and there are fine,
chalybeate springs in every direction. The road from Spanish Town to Port 
Henderson is excellent, but most disagreeably dusty. We could 
only go out after the sun was set, owing to, the intense heat; and the twilight is so 
short in low, latitudes, that it was generally dark long before we
returned to the yacht. It was a favourite excursion of mine
that of visiting Kingston after sunset audby water, The view of the 
town from the sea is very fine.
The distance from Port Royal is about six miles, through what are called the 
Shallows. For a considerable part of the,way, the passage is so 
narrow, in consequence of the mangroves, which literally 
grow out of the water, that there is scarcely room for the oars 
of the boatmen. The scene is singular and pretty, and after the scorching heat 
of the day, the cool evening air was delightfully refreshing.
adhere in great numbers to the mangroves. Kingston stands in an 
amphitheatre of hills, and has
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TEXAS AND THE
full enjoyment both of the land and sea-breeze. The shape
of the celebrated Blue, Mountains is so varied and cap
elous, that one can hardly help fancying it the result of
thog fearf4l earthquakes, with which these coantrieshave
oftn been visited. The savannahs, or plains at the bot.
tom, of them, are charming. The mountains are in parts covered with the, thickest 
foliage; the prickly pear grows in great quantities, and 
there being but few paths and those made in the Indian 
fashion, for single file, it ii by no means safb to trust 
yourself in the forests withard a guide.
The houses at Kingston are much superior to Ithurle
at Spanish Town. The soil on which the former town t~
built is, partly gravel, but, owing in great measure to the
torrents of water which descend from the hi0i country,
it is surrounded by a vast accumulation of mud,. TN.
effluvia arising from this, and from the oozy nature of
the soil is terrible,
The water, too, here is had wAd unwholesome ; in
~,hort, it is a dreadful place, and you can hardly go
through the streets without being assailed by visions, or
ideas, of plague, pestilence, and sudden death.
We were in the habit lef seeing occasionally here, a
poor depressed, weary, young man~ who had made up,
his mind that he should have the fever, and must
inevitably die. Friever saw any one so depressed by the
idea of death; his very face had grown yellow by anticipation, and yet he was in 
good health, and manifested no other symptoms of 
decay.* Every day he brought us some
I think our poor acquaintance must have been some
one of the wa-ade'rin ghosts of Admiral Hosier's ill-
fated crew, who From their-oozy tombs below,
Ilrough the hoary foam ascending, Wander through the midnight gloom,
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OULF OF XKXIC0-
fresh story.of illness or fever; and as his face was growing
visibly longer, day by day, it must be, by this, time, if alarm
has, not hurried him into the Port Royal burying ground~,~a
perfect sight to look upon,
The market is near the water side, and is well supplied,
especially with vegetables, such as lettuces, cucumber-,
French beans, artichokes, celery, peas, beans, &c., all
brought from the mountains. I was told that in the season,
there are delicious strawberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, &c. The apples are 
excellent; and so, I have no doubt, are all the other fruits, as the, climate among 
the hills varies from actual cold to temperate.. A marketboat goes
daily to Port Royal and back. 
The birds of Jamaica are very various and beautiful. I must
say a propos of birds, that one of the most disagree. able
sights I ever witnessed was a row of that horrid description,
of vultures, called scavengers. They were resting on a wall,
gorged with their disgusting meal, their eyes closed, and
their heads sunk between their shoulders, And still for carrion 
carcasses they 'crave."
These unpleasant creatures are protected by the government, and there is a 
very heavy penalty incurred by killing one of them. They are 
very useful, devouring carrion and preventing'the accumulation of offal. Were it
not for :the scavengers, putrid and other fevers, would be
still more ,prevalent than they are at present. Our doctor
was very anxious to shoot one, and we with difficulty dissuaded him
At is strange, that in a climate like this, greater Care is
nottaken to cleanse the streets, and to ventilate the apartments 
ofthehouses. I am told, that in the lodging houses the
rooms are so close and confined, that it is impossible Ao
breathe in them freely. The over-filled, churchyards being in the heart of 
the living populati , is another great instance of imprudence. They 
have such dismal names too for some of their streets and 
houses, " Dead Man's Hole," for instance. Enough to kill a nervous
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TEXAS AND THE
person directly' he 800 his foot a it- The quarters ofthe soldiers
have been removed from Kingston to a higher ground
on the hills. ThUS Soule amelioration in tile lot of these
poor fellows,sent in this foul clime to languish," has been effected, The 
latter position is so much higher, that it luisbcon found, 
already, an improvement in their JOL 
There is a tolerable theatre at Kingston, which however Ls not very well 
attended b,y the inhabitants though occasionally,an Italian Company
comes from Havanna for a, month or two. '11cre are 
several houses in the town where sugar is r6ned,,and 
which, I was told, were worth seeing but Iconlegs I did not feel very
enterprising in this climate
Good rum is very high-priced, and the Same quality,
which, in England, can be purchased at three shillings a
gallon, cannot here be procured at less than nine. 'The
reason of this is, that the rum is sent to England, where
it undergoes some improving process, and that on its re.
turn to Jamaica, its price is increased to this large amount by colonial dues, 
charge of freight, &C. The rum of the countiy, before it takes a voyage to 
England, is execrable. I could not avoid hearing frequent coul.
plaints on this subject, from those chargedi--to use a,
American phrase,-with liquoring the ship's company,
and the latter certainly did not seem to approve of the
quality of the liquor.
lint, to return to Kingston. The moon had risen when wo re, turned from our 
excursion; and as its brilliant disk rolie over the distant 
blue mountains, revealing their bold outlines, and 
shedding a Subdued light over tile tranquil sea, a more 
beautiful efect, or one more worthy of some great painters
hand, could scarcely be imagined How sweetly does the 
moonbeam smile To-night upon yon-jeafy isle.1t And yet, 
Over this calm, scene the angel of ~ death was
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GULF 00 MEXICO.
hovering ! Strange, that so lovely, a land should be -the'
stronghold of disease, the burial-place of the young, the
healthy, and the gay! But so it is! To-day strong in 
health ' and fresh in spirit; to-morrow, numbered among dead.
In no country that I ever heard of, is superstition more
rife than it is in Jamaica. Even Ireland, that land of fancy
and wild imaginings, can boast but few national ghosts and
interesting revenants compared with those which are said to
flourish on this island. They have their duffies, a most
unpleasant species of ghost, answering to the Irish banshee,
who are said to wander about in numbers pro. luirtioned to
the deaths which take place. In sickly seasons, it is said,,
they may be seen to any amount. Of course, in common with
all rational ghosts that ever were heard of, they prefer the
burial-ground as their place- of resort. There, when
darkness comes, they love to glide in paths that lead to graves.
By all accounts, they are fearful things those same
duffies! and, as national ghosts, have a decided claim to
respect and consideration.
''The burial-ground of Port Royal is just outside the town,
and is a most congenial spot for their unholy revels. It is
strewed with human bones of all sorU and dimen~~Isions.
Here they are said to hover over the silent, graves~
dancing about in wild glee, and sometimes even venturing
beyond the limits of the graveyard, to pay nocturnal
~~'Visits to their former friends. There are several cocoa-,
trees in and about the burial-ground; their tops wavc-, about,
not at all unlike the plumes of a hearse, and add greatly to the
gloom of the place. The ghost of a certain "merchant who
died some time ago in Jamaica, is said nightly to the top of one 
or other of cocoa-trees and after taking a deliberate 
survey ofthe codntry~, and make his way into the town.~ At the, death,
several persons owed him, money to. a
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TE,xAS AND THE
considerable amount;, in particular, one rather influential
person, -9-inst whom he appears to entertain a bitter grudge
The duffy of the dead merchant frequently, in the 
dead Of tho, night, , when all around are sleeping,enter,
the h0usO Of his quondam friend, and pummels his
corpulent sides, till he roars for mercy. I was seriously
informed by a respectable lodging-house keeper,
~whusc house had formerly been a hospital, that oil
Moonlight nights, I might see troops of its former
inhabitants, those who had died within the walls, walking
leisurely up and down the verandah and looking
complacently in upon its present occupants.
No fear of these nigbtly visiters, seemed to be felt by
any one; on the contrary, they were evidently considered
as a sort of domestic animal, whom, however, it would be
injudicious to disturb.
It may be mentioned, that there are".many superstitions peculiar to the 
negroes, upon whose fears and credulity it is easy, but very barbarous, to work.
Tlic sea-breeze at Port Royal blows with considerable violence. On one 
occasion, I recollect a heavy decanter, full of "Wine, 
being literally blown off the table by the strength of the 
wind, as it blustered through the Core. modore's 
house. The wind is considered here so healthy, and 
so reviving in its effects, that it is universally called 44 
the doctor." I found his measures, however, rather too 
violent to be agreeable, and alwilys fancied I felt the 
heat more, after he had ceased to blow upon me, or 
rather, in the intervals between his puffs. I found, 
also, that many people agreed with me, in disliking his 
diurnal visit& 
The time was now fast drawing near, when we were to
take, our leave of our pleasant quarters. In spite, bow'~~
ever, of tropical heat, musquitoes, and white ants, 
quired a great efFort to make tip our minds, to bid adiev:,.' ,
to our kind and hospitable host.
A few days before our departure the Commodore, with
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GULF OF MEXIM
several officers of the lmaum, Captain Bruce, &c., gave
the pleasure of their company at dinner on board the
Dolphin, It was their farewell visit. The principal event
which marked the party was, that the Commodore's .'servant
fell into the sea, while attempting to get into the barge, He rose immediately, and 
was speedily picked up; happily with the usual number of limbs, tor he had
a narrow escape from the sharks. Necessary business
ounected with the yacht had already detained as a con
siderable time ; new sails had to be fitted, and awnings
repaired, ' besides many other arrangements, of which I
do not know the nature. We had also to replace our two
sailors who vvere left at Madeira. This we found- no
difficulty in doing; the two new hands being men-of
war's men, and called very smart." The steward's mate had also taken to 
drinking, and idling, and was discharged. He was the 
,tragedian," and made his appearance, during our stay, on 
the boards of the Kingston Theatre. A substitute for 
hm was not easily procured; however, we succeeded at 
last, and were declared in readiness ibr sea.
We were to weigh anchor at five o'clock in the morn. ing,
and consequently decided to sleep on board the last night.
Adieus are always painful, whether addressed to place or
people. I never leave a house, which in all probability I
never shall see again, without heavy heart, and the last
minute always comes too soon. After bestowing our last
words, and last good wishes on our host, vve shook hands
with the best *224 most warm hearted of negresses, Sally 
Adams. This pattern for housekeepers to single gentlemen 
has filled the like office at Port Royal time out of mind, 
but only as an amateur. is a sick-nurse at the hospital and 
friend and assistant-general to all *he require her aid., It is handed
down traditionally, that Sally Adarns, performed these
nd offices ia the time of Admiral Rodney; and,I am
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TEXAS AND THE,
does not entertain a personal collection of, the unfortunate Hosier.
Nancy the negress, who had proved herself, stormy
weather, any thing but an acquisition to our ships
company, we, despatched in a steamer to her native island
St Thomas. She was not a good specimen of h'country, Though,by no means 
wanting in intellect, she ~p6ssessed the worst quality of 
tile fool,-cunning, I hle often, through my cabin-door, 
heard her boasting of Iler ingenuity in'deceiving a 
former mistress, or rather owner, who, IT her own account, 
treated her with the kindness. made believe pain in side, no work, tile,
Missis come and nurse, and rub side, and do all ~vork I I
was not sorry when she left us. Her extreme ugliness really
disfigured the ship.
NANCY.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
evening leave of our kind friends, and prepared Ourselves for the noises, and
rockings, which make one every moment mentally acknowledge
the truth of the saying, that, a ship is a ,,thing you never can be quiet in."
The Lightning man-of-war steamer left Port Royal for Hayti,
with prisoners, at the time of out departure from Jamaica. After
remaining a day or two at St. Domingo, she was expected to leave
that island for Havanna, to which city we were also bound. -1 had
indulged the hope of again having a consort to sail with us, as
there is something to me very satisfactory in the idea of having, a
friend near, on the wide waters. I have been often told, that in case
of danger, there is seldom any chance of their being of any use,
yet, the very sight of them is cheering.
Having been merely fastened to a buoy, we were soon under
way the next morning. Again, and most proba. bly for the last
time, I gazed on the beautiful seenery and luxuriant vegetation of
this most lovely of the West India Islands. the Blue Mountains,
half hid among the clouds, and the dark hills risinz from the sea,
were glorious to witness. But we leave, the harbour, and now
the wind draws kindly aft, All hands are up the yards to square, 
And now the floating stu'n-sails waft Our little ship through waves and air."
Jamaica, sad changes have taken place.' ,17he excellent Bishop, whom we left- 
doing, good, and given to hospitality," has fallen a victim 
to, the climate; ,while Lady Elgin, the young, the. beautiful, 
and, the good, as also been laid low.*
e writing the, above, I see that' the Assembly at Jamaica have-
voted eight. hundred pounds &4 to be ezoended
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TEXAS A" THE
If the remaining friends and relations of those, that arP'thus
prcmatureIV laid in. the grave, can find a consolation,in their
bereavement, it must be i n~ the sympthy - of the I many,, Who
knew and appreciated the virtues of the dead -1, and in the
belief, that in another world, 'the virtue# of, the'departed have
secured them, through faith Redeemer an eternity of happiness and peace.
ary wanderer here, Rest,.~, then, we for sacred ground is near;
Ifere Ineath a simple tablet lying, The toed in life, the blest when dying,
Waits, in this dark and still abode, ,& summons to attend her God!
A peaceful halo fills the air,And tells that faith is sleeping there.
The young, the highborn, sleeps below,]For.he~r, the tears of 
thousands flow. -then, wanderer through this world of care,
Bre4the o'er this spot a silent prayer; pray for the desolate and poor,
Who ne'er were driven from her door, Pray that the rich who here abide
May imitate so fair a guide: May they, like her, with open hand,
Spreadgladness through a grateful land; Winning,, on earth, a people's 
love; An angel's glorious lot above!
in the erection,of a tablet to the memory of th I Lady Elgin mark of
the respect in which "she, universally held.
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CULP OF MEXICO. 61
CHAPTER V.
Cape Corrientes-Squally~The Mississippi-Belize-Catfish
An odd Character - Rifle -Shooting - River Scenery Thick Fog.
He will lie, Sir, with such volubility that you would think truth were a fool. 
SHAKSPEARE.
A strange fish! Were I in England now, (as once I was,)
and had, but this fish painted, not a holiday fool there, but
would give me a piece of silver. 
SHAKSPEARE
Nov. 22. {1843/11/22} A. m. Light airs and fine. Five o'clock re'ceived
the pilot on board-passed Portuguese shoal-ten 6!clock
discharged, pilot.-Ten P. m. Beautiful moon Iight night, runnine, six 
knots passed Portland Point and Pedro Bluffs.
Nov. 26. {1843/11/26} This morning we made the Island of Cuba as we
supposed Cap~ San Antonio. The land was low and rocky,
with here and there a few pines books of directions mentioned the great 
resemblance ~between Cape Corrientes and Cape San 
Antonio, and also they were mistaken for one another.-As 
the as cloudy, and, owing to the currents, as we *er6 not 
over sure of our exact position, we kept a good offing, and soon after 
discovered Cape San Antonio well westward; the land we had first 
made being Cape Corrientes We had also a proof of the 
accuracy ofour charts wrecks of two vessels being observable, on,
"the shore about three miles to the west of Cape Corrienties, where they had run, 
up high`~and dry, fancyiz* er e well past the westernmost, point of Cuba, 
No had we rounded Cape San Antonio, than we found
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TEXAS AND THE
our change of course entailed upon us a dead foulwind,
we were also-, no, longer under the shelter of the island blowing
very haid and the strong wind, in oppo,:, current was 
produced a. most unpleasant sea We were under single-reefed mainsail
and double-reefed fore-trysail. Midnight heavy squalls,
attended with thunder, rain and lightning provoking after having
gone,discomfort and fear, and after having fancied myself a
perfect heroine, than to be told that it was blow. rather' fresh, &c., I 
often e quitt mortified at having Iny illusions destroyed in this rough Manner.
Nov. 27. {1843/11/27}, Double-reefed fore-trysail-three sail
sight, in the afternoon moderate gales, midnight, squally I
This was all disagreeable enough, so we called (or in Indian language, a 
Palaver, and determined give up, Havanna, for the present, and to bear up
New Orleans. . The change was delightful; we had wind us,and skipped along 
beautifully, seven, eight, nine knots an hour, a few double reefs, but nothing
NOV., 30. {1843/11/30} Fresh breezes and fine, sounded, no bottom,at,
thirty-five fathom. In the afternoon, double reefs agaill mainsail
Dec. 1. {1843/12/01} Sounded, forty-five fathom, mud, altered course,:
and set square sail. Three o'clock P. m. received a pilot, on
board. Saw a lighthouse on starboard bow at O'clock we
brought tip off Balize in three fathom water furled sails,,cleared decks and set 
the watch.
And this was the Mississippi! Thegiant which I had
heard s 0 much ! It really was very disappointing; mud, and
reeds, and floating logs, Yellow fever dampness and
desolation! I believe there are about hundred souls in this
wretched little village f least fifky of them are pilots. They go
very far outtosea a, their boats though not handsome, are well built safe
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GULF OF IMEXICO.
The chief officer of the customs, and the great man of the
place, came on board immediately and was most kind
,,in his offers of assistance; lie had shooting 1, first rate"
for my husband, and a ball with a drum and tambour to
:,enliven the ladies, i. e. my maid and myself! By his
account, game is verv Plentiful here at all seasons of the
year-snipes, in abundance, and thousands of wild ducks;
and. a short way up the river, plenty of deer, quail, gray
squirrel and woodcock; fish, to our surprise, is rather a
scarce commodity here; the sort most frequently caught is
called the cat-fish, of which, by the bye, our new acquaintance told us rather a 
remarkable anecdote. Well sir," he began, this is queer 
what I'm going to tell you, but it's a fact, that a friend of 
mine had a pointer dog marked with very particular spots, and 
this pointer had seven first-rate pups, all marked the same. Well sir,
my friend he did'nt want the pups, so he just threw them
slick into the Mississippi; lie was raised, my friend was, up
north away, and lie threw the pups in good two.hundred
miles from this, lie did. Well sir, it might -be couple of days after this I 
was a fishing, and I caught as fine a cat-fish as ever you saw, 
and in its inside what might you think I found ? Just my 
friend's pointer pups, two of them, was dead surely, bat the rest 
was only a little hungry !-,and that's a fact! by~--this and by that."
This singular perso, age was very proud of his skill in
rifle-shooting, and sent us evidences of his skill, in the
shape of some delicious wild ducks shot that morning,
Ae had conic off conqueror in a well-contested match
Alligator famous Indian chief, and, what much greater importance to 
him, he had likewise his superiority as a sportsman over an English
nobleman!" He forgot the name of this - distinguished
"individual," as he called him: by his account the noble-man was travelling for 
pleasure (a circumstance in itself sufficiently I surprising to a 
Yankee mind) -and" himself at Balize, challenged our informant to
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TEXAS AND THE
rifle-match. The peer boasted of being a first-rate shot, Won
CUP at Manchester, by his skill with th rifle short he would 
show the American w4at, shooting Well," said the narrator, 
his Lordship dressed smart new bright-green velvet
huntingcoat, with mother-of-pearl buttons as big dollar -why I tell you, that 
coat was enough to skeered, all,the ducks away 
from the river from thitt, ell, sir, he put on the coat, and then he 
fire, without a thought of keeping himself sight of the birds, a nd then 
away he popped, and a splendij gun 6,1ad too, quite first-rate. Well sir, I shot 
twenty two ducks outof twenty.three shots; a man with us shot,,
ten of twelve while my Lord lie never brought down bird
he was surprised a little,-I wish his name, but, I do-and that's a fact:,
Our friend 'was really very useful to us ; he was specimen genuine 
Yankee: kind-hearted hospitable to degree;. rather given to drawing the
long. bow; sportsman,and a very good one, stand excused. His son was a 
very pleasant mannered boy, a midshipman in the United States Navy. The two,
us plentifully with game, which we, not sorry to procure, " 
we intended sailing up the, river to New Orleans, a mode 
of voyaging, which, wid, Contrary winds, frequently occupies, a considerable 
length :,the'distance is about one hundred and five miles
easy to procure provisions of any sort at Balize. Beef, is, 
browlit from the city New 0rleans only in sufficient quantities 
to supply the wants pilots and, their families, and is high priced
one shilling and threepence, a pound. Fowls are still, scarcer;, no poultry 
being reared in tbourhood. ~ Milk, was not to be had at any price
were told thotAhere was a widow lady up the river had milch cows Ond might 
possibly be induce
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Dolphin yacht in the Mississippi
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GULF OF MEXICO.
of their produce. With this hope I was contented; though, not having 
enjoyed the milk in my tea since leaving Jamaica, I rather disappointed in having 
to wait still longer, what we are accustomed to consider an indispensable
tiete of diet. 
Dec 2  {1843/12/02} Weighed anchor, and made sail up the river
wind, moderate and fine. It is always cus. take steam" up the 
Mississippi, so that our of sailing caused great astonishment, but
ch more agreeable and independent a course, no hesitation in adopting it. 
The noise of pressure engines, which are almost invariably
used, is ver disagreeable; and you have not even the adof
coming quickly to the end of your voyage, as steamer generally takes several 
vessels in tow, and , her steam not being of sufficient power ' average
more than three or four knots an
sight of the harbour, you see nothing on er sid th~ river, for several 
miles, but the same reedy banks. Banks, however, they 
cannot be called, there is not the slightest perceptible elevation; you with
innumerable snitp and floating logs, which very desolate, ruinous look to the 
surface On ascending a few rattlings, one of the crew could see the sea over the 
tops of the low trees; ere are several passes out of the river, and between
extend theae swampy forests.
Occasionally we passed, or met a large raft, floating up
down the stream. These rafts have generally a little hut
built on them, in which there is a fire, and the men, charge of these 
floating islands, are very often Apen comfortably cooking 
their dinner; the muddy water the while rippling over their 
wooden island and finding, out again as quietly as it came in. 
much cannot be said of the extreme muddiness
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Texas iND THE
ugliness of this celebrated river, a few miles mouth . Its fogs - whip'! those 
of our Thames. the Yankees use the verb, ,to whip, invariably
We say to beat," for instance : when we first, entered river lay anchor 
little, schooner passed us, and without any previous greeting, tile master
hailed us through his speaking trumpet, with modest remark, 
wellstranger, I guess I could whip You pretty -And by way, as Ile evidently
considered, of makinz good his boast, he proceeded
taking advantage of, our situation, to sail round us
triumphant manner. The Americans are greg boasters~--I cannot with any 
regard to truth, say they notj~and they are particularly glad to whip the 
English when they can. At the same time Ihe vaunt- gonerally made in the spirit of 
good humour and honest rivalship, and if taken in the same way, would eve, lead,
as is too generally the case, to quarrels and heart burnings.
By degrees the scenery improves and the woods thicker
still the timber is, not of large growth, thougi, tile, late
autumn, colours of the leaves rendered them very varied
and beautiful. The most common tree is tile sycamore, not
quite the same as ours of ,the same name, but so,, the
brilliant crimson of its seed-pods, finely with the brown and 
changing leaves. As advanced up the, river the trees were of a more cog.
siderable si7x, and there was much more variety in their
foliage. Ilex and' the live oak are very frequent. There 1.4 a
peculiarity in the appearance of the woods, owing f~ the
trees being'almost universally covered with the long
Spanish moss. This parasitical plant hangs frorn every branch and
twig, descending in long weeping clusters; these dependants often grow
to the length six or eight feet, and are of a grayish colour; a sombre hue to the forests, 
alnd'render their somewhat monotonous. The'shores increase beauty
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GVLF OF MEXICO.
proceeded, being diversified with splendid magnolias cottonwood trees. 
Occasionally we saw extensive clearings on which were temporary wooden
houses river side: they are occupied by the wood cutters, who are 
employed in fclling and stacking wood f the innumerable steamers which work
up down the river. These insatiable monsters of the 'Mississippi is said to have 
no bottom) will soon almost total destruction of those characteristic forests
they are fast disappearing under the hands of go-ahead" steamboat companies.
We had a fine breeze all day, and though there was trimming of sail., and 
beating up reaches, we found log-book spoke well of our 
progress. We asked a ,Yankee fisherman, after we came to an 
anchor, how far We were from New Orleans, and his reply 
was 1, well, I expect it will be sixty miles about from the city."
a very good day's work, particularly as we were against a current running from 
four to five miles an hour, and encouraged us to persevere. All day we :had
been hailed every hour by some steamer or other." The
Webster, the President, or the Henry Clay, with the Oft
repeated, t4 well, I guess you want to take steam up to the
City?" t,N6," ti no' " 4, no," we had answered till we Wore
tired, Now, a1l was comparatively still ; the huge river
was composing itself to rest after its labours ; there occasionally a murmuring 
sound from the adjacent shore as of some drowsy insects 
humming their latest evening song, and now and then thc 
light paddle, Of canoe went ripple, ripple past.-Here we lay, out two
gleaming lights through the evening mist, our sails furled
nds below save the solitary look-out man--yes,
lay on the broad bosoni of the giant Mississippi. rest it
was after the stormy nights to which we accustomed
night fog alarm 
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TEXAS AND THE
Steamers, which were cons~antlv Passing us.
American law you are obliged to have two lights burning at the masthead 
at night ; should vessel, not Showing the required number be run against
the' river by another ship, the former will not be entitled 
any remuneration for damage sustained in the concussion,
Dec. 3. {1843/12/03} The morning was damp, chilly and foggy, but,
before nine oclock the sun had cleared away the and we
were again under way. As we progressed, the": clearings
became more frequent and greater signs, civilization apparent.
There was the more finished cottage, with its little garden crowded 
with orange tree~ and most of them had in addition a small 
patch of Indian corn. The oranges are small, but grow very 
thickly; they are sweet and eatable, though riot to be 
compared W any which come to England. The weather was 
very chilly; the thermometer on deck at noon in sun, sto~d at 54,
which to us, so lately arrived froar the scorching heat of
the West Indies, was really cold; but notwithstand.' ing
this, we found the musquitoes very troublesome. this day
we had quite sufficient amusement in watc4 the birds,
which were displaying their bright colours in the variously tinted woods. They 
really were beautiful and we were quite near enough 
to:the shore to distinguish their colours, and generally 
speaking, their species; therewas the mockingbird with 
its elegant shape, but rat6 dingy plummage; jays and woodpeckers 
of every hue gaudy Virginia nightingale in great numbers
we saw also wild ducks and flocks of wild swans And,,
geese, the, latter of which were extremely shy and wild
Of course every traveller in America is prepared by
vious description to admire the autumn foliage of these
pathless 'woods." There is, however, a, richness variety in them-the bright and 
almost dazzling crimson shaded into rich golden yellow, 
and intermingled with brightest evergreens-which is 
perfectly indescribable. a painter were to attempt depicting life
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GULF OP MEXICO.
called ,as mad as Turner," and truly no mortal Id image
forth such scenes as these.
our second day's Pilgrimage, I noticed several
smart houses, the residences of sugar-growers, whose
manufactories were always near at hand. Rather further
were the log huts ofthe slaves. We saw the in great
numbers, both male and female, working clearings they seemed very cheerful, 
and we often, heard laugh merrily as we passed by ; after all that 
told of the sufferings of these people, it quite gladdened heart to 
hear them. We made this day progress towards 1, the City
there being scarcely wind eighteen miles, however, were better than 
ng, and as we were not pressed for time, we still refused
offer of our friends in the steam-tugs.
four o'olock,'P. m., the breeze died away entirely, and we 
came to an anchor in seven fathom water~ In the r dinner, we
rowed to the shore; our object procure a little milk, and seeing 
some, cows in a clearing, we did not quite despair of success. river is 
about a mile wide; we had, therefore some c to row, and the current 
was running very 'str,ori ; we did not take any of the men with us, as they
been so much employed all day in tacking, trimming	&e. On reaching the shore the 
Doctor alone landed. waited a long time, so long that 
the musquitoes tired ,vv#h, worrying us went to rest, 
and the mighty fog, which, had,hoped to escape, covered 
us over like a curtain. At length there came the welcome 
sound of approaching foot-steps, and our companion 
accompanied by three men his appearance. He had 
literally been unable to escape before, so warni had been 
his welcome from these rude sons of the forest. They 
were profuse intheir offers, assistance, and I believe would 
really have given us thing they possessed. From the 
lady who kept the cows we procured a small bottle of milk, for which we
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TEXAS AND THE
paid two bits-abOut one shilling they likewise brought
me some fresh eggs, which were quite a luxury.
The question now was how to find the Dolphin
There is nothing so, bewildering as a thick fog, and by t~
tim I e we. had rowed, as we thought, to the middle of,ihe stream
we, found ourselves completely puzzled, both as t,
our own whereabouts and that of the schooner.
steamers wer puffing up and down, thick and fast
us but little note of their approach ; indeed , were 
ever so near, froni the extreme density qf the fog, 
was every chance of our steering precisely the wrong
way. Our only guide was our knowledge that the two I
lights of the Dolphin were to be looked for under the north
star. We were at length enabled to catch a I glimpse Of
her, as the fog hung low over the water, and our guidilig
star brought us to our home in safety. In less thali au
hour I found myself to my infinite relief in . my floating
homeplaying , Hail Columbia" with variations; an &P
propriate compliment to the great City," we were approaching.
Dec. 4. {1843/12/04} Alas! no wind, another lingering day.
the weather was warmer, and the birds were singilig 60
gly that they reminded me of an English day in June 
there was now no variety in the scenery. We came toa'U
anchor early in the afternoon, having made about ten miles
After dinner we rowed in the gig for some time along the banks, and landed 
several times in the hope. procuring fresh provisions. 
Meeting-with no success, returned on board laden with 
orange branches with fruit All night the fog was 
very thick musquitoes most annoying.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
CHAPTER VI
New Orleans-The Harbour-Texan Commodore-The Hotel St.
Charles-Busy scene on the strand-American manners
and customs--Eligible situation of New Orleans
Population of the State of Louisiana-Yellow Fever-National education-Departure from 
New Orleans.
Soul of the world, Knowledge, without thee,
What hath the earth that truly glorious is ?"
DANIEL.
DEC. 5. {1843/12/05} Only fifteen miles from the city. Its towers, and
the dome of the St. Charles's Hotel, distinctly to be seen! All rather tired with the 
monotony of our fresh-water voyage. A dead calm till two o'clock,
was dusk before we reached New Orleans. The first view of the town from the river 
is very striking; I think I never saw, in any other, so long and continuous a line
Of large, and even grand-looking buildings. The innumerable lights which gleamed 
from the houses and public buildings, and which were reflected on the river, were
to us, so long unused to the cheerful aspect of a large and
bustling city, a most welcome sight.
Dec. 6. {1843/12/06} If New Orleans appeared delightful to us by the
light of its gas-lamps, what did it not do when seen in the face of day ! It was the busiest scene! Such forests of masts! Such flaunting colours and flags, of. every hue and of every country! Really, as the Yankees say,
Orleens may stump the universe for a city." Five tier Of shipping in the harbour ! This 
is their busiest time for ,taking in cargo.
There is a beautiful corvette lying near us, a long low
hull. and raking masts; at the mainmast is flying a small
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TFXAS,,A'ND THE,
flag,with one star on its brilliant white ground; it is the star,
of the young Republic of Texas. Boat alongside Side ropes!" it is the gig of 
the Texan Commodore. had sent a lieutenant from the San 
Jacintho, with many kind offers of assistance and civility. In about ail, hour, -Mr.
Houstoun returned the visit, and brought the Commodore
back with him. The latter gave us a good deal of information as to the state 
of the Texan country, and some news from the army. His, countrymen and the Mexicans are countinuing a desultory warfare, and'with but little
present prospect of coming to an amicable settlement. One thing which the 
Commodore told us gave us a good deal of disappointment. We 
found that our plan of going to Aransas could not be put into execution. From all we 
had heard, the country about that river is the finest in Texas,
and affords the best sports, there being wild animals in great variety. ' 
Unfortunately, the Dolphin, lie assured us,drew too much water for the 
bar at the mouth of Aransas harbour, and lying outside is by no means safe. The San
Jacintho, though of eight hundred tons, drew but ten feet;
she was fully armed, and equipped; all the Commodore wanted was money, and that 
seemed very scarce with him just then :, had he but possessed that necessary 
article, lie would go to sea, take the Montezuma and Guadaloupe,
~nd whip the Mexicans all round "' And so lie very likely would, for he enjoys the 
reputation of being a good officer, and a very fighting one. Mr. Houstoun 
went on shore with the Cominodore, and was introduced to the
British Consul. During his absence a great many boats came along side. What 
could we be, a miniature man-of-war, with our guns run out at the port-holes, and our 
white stripe.? No one knew. But we heard afterwards, that our
expected advent had been announced in a New Orleans newspaper, and in that we 
were described as, an armed: vessel, going, to fight for the cause of freedom, viz. - 
to take the part of the Yucatanese. , Truly, though I wish
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GULF OF MEXICO.
every success, I hope I may never hear the voices of our six-pounders in 
their behalf found the inusquitoes most disagreeable ; they
Were worse, if possible, than at Jamaica; but to make amends, I had such beautiful 
flowers! Jessamines every kind; daphnes, roses, violets! Such a
bouquet! and all growing in the open air. How refreshing they were, and 
how they reminded me of I slunimer in distant England.
We made it a rule, in general, not to sleep out of our own house, but were tempted to 
break it here. Previous to our arrival, we had heard so much of the great Hotel of St.
Charles, the immense extent of its accommodattons, and the size of its apartments, that we decided -upon spending a few days there, in order to see these
wonders with our own eyes, and judge of them with our 'understandings.
The St. Charles's Hotel was built on speculation by the proprietor of the Astor 
House, at New York;" and I believe the former to be, if possible, a still more 
prosperous undertaking than the Astor House. It contains within its
walls accommodation for at, least five hundred persons. We landed in the gig about 
twelve o'clock, and such a scene of business and bustle never before met my eyes!
The Strand, or Levee, as it is called, is crowded by busy:looking iiien, passing 
in all directions; evidently their heads are full of business, and speculations and I operations in course or in perspective, fill up every thought and feeling. No one looks at you, or delays for a moment his walk, or his conversation, for trivial causes. Indeed, I am inclined to -believe, that were a rnad dog at'their heels, it would make but little 
impression upon their absorbed faculties. Black slaves, laughing, joking, swear.
hallooing rolling sugar-casks, or turnbline over the bales of cotton; and sailors of 
merchant vessels the only idlers in this busy scene, are lounging, aholt, with their 
pipes in their mouths, and their hands in their pockets.
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TZXA9 AND THE
it is a most animated, and,to a stranger, most amusing sight but with all this 
bustling and 'noise, there is no confusion no disorderly persons about. Whcj
those gaily-dressed men sitting astride upon cotton-, bales, and looking,so composed, while discussing som'01 serious question with ca-ch
other? Youcan judge nothing from their countenances; they are so well schooled and, 
tutored, that no I one would imagine an important mercantile negotiation was in
progress. That gentleman, mounted on a molasses cask, whistling, cutting up a stick, 
as, if for the bare life, but in reality to prevent his countenance from, betraying his
feelings, is doing business with the man who is balancing himself on an empty, barrel near him. The latter, with the eternal quid in th& corner of his mouth, is clearly looking out , for tho giraffe and, after a while, he rises with great sang froid, with , Well, 
Sir, I calculate there's a something of a string-halt in the bargain; it's a horrid sight
of money, Sir, you're asking, and as I'm in a tarnation hurry to liquor, I'll just put 
it off till next fall." I need hardly say that this shrewd gentleman was recalled, and
a bargain concluded. The process of liquoring-'is gone through several times before a 
bargain is struck. 
This, the first specimen I saw of Americans, in their own.country,strackme forcibly. 
It shewed me that those who, in dress, appearance, &c., are decidedly the gentlemen of the land, are so devoted to money making, as evidently to have neither time, 
nor many ideas to waste on other subjects. It convinced me, that though the contem.
plation of America as a nation, and at a distance, may,and indeed must be interesting, 
yet the investigation and survey of the people who compose that nation, must soon'
become wearying and monotonous. One may be amused for a time at the shrewdness with which they make their bargains, at the acuteness of 
their remarks, and the origi.
Anglice, taking care he is not taken in.'
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GULF OF MEXICO.
of their expressions; but once convinced, as I speedily became, that 
their every action proceeds from a love amassing wealth, and you cease to 
become interested in individuals, whose conduct and whose pleasures
are swayed by such an ignoble cause.
The Americans are accounted, and I believe justly so, moral people, but even this 
merit is, I think, not so great a one in their case, as it is among other nations.
.'Their love of wealth being all-powerful, and being to be ,gratified only by the strictest 
attention to business, it follows, necessarily, that the habits of their 
lives gone. rally become quiet and restrained.
You seldom see an American lady accompanied in her walks, rides, or drives, except on Sundays, by a gentleman; it would bea waste of time, and consequently a useless 
expenditure of money, to indulge in the gentle, and refining society of the
fernale sex. Young, delicate, and pretty women are met unprotected, clad in the 
gayest colotirs; I believe they are not denied any of the innocent 
enjoyments procured by dress and female society, and they may be seen pacing the streets, from store to store, and from board i Dg.house to boarding-house,
shopping, and paying visits. This custom of young married women not having a home of their own, but inhabiting those nests of gossip called boarding-houses, 
secins to me injudicious and reprehensible. The young American wife, ~gnd
they marry when almost children, is thus left all day Vithoat tile society of her husband, or the protection of presence. Her conversation is limited to tile vicious
details of scandal, or the insipid twaddle of dress, and in place where, all have a right to enter, the good and the well-disposed woman must frequently come in contact 
'mith many, who, had she possessed a home of her own, never have
been admitted to her presence.
There were a variety of carriages standing for hire on the Levee. Their cleanliness, 
the excellence and ease of ir springs,to sav nothing of the well-appointed appear
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T19XAS AND THE
most of the drivers, would put to shanle the vehicles in of the capitals of. 
Europe. open carriage, though the weather was extremely cold were curious to see 
as much as we could this interesting City.
remarked flow closely those whom I met or passed resembled each other. It is 
difficult to mistake a Yankee for th inhabitant or native of any other country. They
are, almost all closely shaven, not a vestige of beard or whisker is left,-and then their 
garments are all so precisely the same! I felt I should never be able to di;titi.
guigh one man from another. I could not at first comprehend why all the male 
inhabitants looked so precisely like figures madeon the same 
model, but my lengthened drive through the streets enlightened me. Outside a great
many of the , notion" stores, I saw just such figures hanging up, coat, pantalon a 
sous pied; in short, thi whole outward man. There was this difference, and h6
it remarked, it is an essential one-the latter were men of straw, Such cannot be said of 
the wealthy merchants of New Orleans. The fact is this, there are no wor"
tailors atNew Orleans, and every article of dress comes ready made from the Northern States. There are merchant tailors in plenty, and if the traveller in New Orleans is in want of a suit of clothes, he must, if of the masculine sex, betake himself t6' one of these gentlemen,ie will he forthwith fitted with any thing he may hap
to want. 11 Pants" are daily announced, as a cargo arrived ~i by the - fron, New 
York;" the latter city: evidently has the responsibility of, setting the fashions the elegants of the other cities of the Union, garments beinz all of the same 
colour and fashion accounts for the similarity of the appeara inhabitants.
Every one in America, (and I include Orleans, where the admixture of French blood
southern clime, would doubtless CtWse, an appearance
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GULF OF MEXICo.
gaiety can be looked for any where in the States in America, I say, looks grave, serious,'and reflective There is none of the sportive, light-hearted ible among the' 
French, and occasionally countrymen; their very amusements, they are few, are partaken of without any show of relaxation or pleasure. Why is this? Because business into pursues the ver heart of their enjoyments; because, in fact, it is their 
enjoyment, and business is certainly not a lively thing. It neither opens the heart, nor
expands the countenance.
De Tocqueville says :- I believe the seriousness of the Americans arises partly from 
their pride. In democratic countries, even poor nien entertain a lofty notion of,their
personal importance: they look upon themselves with complacency, and are apt to 
suppose that others are "looking at them too. With this disposition, they watch their 
language and their actions with care, and do not lay themselves open to betray 
their deficiencies; to preserve their dignity, they think it necessary to preserve their gravity.
If the Americans are the proud sensitive people that De Tocqueville asserts~ them to be, how is it that this pride is wholly and solely personal ? How is it that itdoes
-,:,not make them, feel more acutely as a nation, and induce them to bestow a little 
of the anxiet they display for themselves as individuals, on the honour and name of the country of which they affect to be so vain.
The fact is, that,, like many other proud, or I should isay, vain people, it is the very 
sense of their public deficiencies, and the knowledge that their want of national faith
is held up as a scorn and a warning among the nations of the earth that 
induces them to wrap themselves up in this dignified gravity, and in a cold and
repellent demeanour. An American does not even -relax at his meals (to be sure, 
they occupy - but a short space of time)	his attachment to his cares" is
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TEXAS AND THE
greater than OuTs to our pleasures; and it is this, as said before, that renders him so 
uninteresting a character.
The ladies cannot be uninteresting here; they are so pretty, so gentle, and so 
feminine-looking. I have said that they walk alone, and unprotected ; at the same time, 
to add, that so great is the respect in which ladies are held in America, that such a 
course can rarely be attended by aPy disagreeable consequences. The taste which the American ladies display in their dress is questionable. 'It is true, their gowns, bonnets, caps, &c., all arrive Paris, and I much question whether an American lady
would condescend to wear any thing, which She even suspected was made by any, other than Parisian fingers.
The natural conclusion to be drawn ' from this fliej would be, that the American ladies 
dress well- 1,11owever am far from thinking so. It is true, thalt each individual article is well made, and the fashion correct. Ilow Call it be otherwise, when expense is not regarded, and Braudrant's choicest show-rooms are ransacked for the, 
New World ? Still the tout ensemble is not pleasim, ; the cap or bonnet, however pretty, is not put on well, and the colours are never tastefully mingled,
Ladies in America are too fond Of glaring colous ; and though their faces are lovely, 
yet they do not hold themselves well, and their figures are rarely good. I think I never 
Saw so much beauty, or loveliness, so varied in its character, as I did in
New Orleans. There mas the fair English-American, with her slight stooping figure, far 
surpassing, in charm of feature, the beauties of the Old Country." The Creole-brunette, 
with her springy form, and active, graceful walk, cannot be~ passed unnoticed; she looks very determined, however, and as if the strife of active and angry 
passions were often at war within her bosom. But lastly, and far more 
beautiful than,either, I noticed the rich dark cheek of the, Quadroon. The eloquent blood in her soft cheek speaks but too plainly of her
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GULF OF MEXICO.
despised descent. She seems to blush at the injustice of man its upon her the sins of her fathers. Tile ogantly bids her stand aside, for he is holier bitter contempt, the women of the land contact, and the large sleepy eye, half hid its curled fringes, is hardly raised, as gracefully and humbly she passes them by. Poor thing! what wonder, that she is neglecied and oppressed, she should in the desolation of her heart to other ties. Deprived frequently of the many consolations of kindred affection
solitary link in the chain of human sympathies, brotherless friendless,
alone! Let those who have never known what solitude of the heart is, speak harshly 
of the of the. despised Quadroon. I can but pity her.
and much more, I saw and noticed during my long drive through the busy 
streets of New Orleans. re is indeed much to see, and much to remark upon;
observation, after a time, becomes wearying, and sorry to find myself arrived at 
the hotel. What a really magnificent building itis, with its immense facades;
quite strains ones eyes to catch a glimpse of its gigantic dome Americans certainly 
build remarkably fine sometimes. I am not sure, to last. Yankees are too apt 
to chalk fine plans and commence splendid buildings, which and when only begun, they leave to Providence finish
new country is never too young for exertion push on-keeD movinz-go ahead." This is the Americans motto. They &ge-t their youth, and consequent want of strength, in this 
very love of exertion, and fondness, for attempt and movin."
All this however does.not apply to the St. Charles, which ~Js finished, and, is as 
good a specimen of a first-rate hotel ,as'. can be found any  where. The establishment is conA,i'teted on a most liberal and splendid scale. The rooms the taUe d'hotes are 
immense, and public eating goes
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TEXAS AND THE
thp~ day., Longer time. is spent at table, Americans New Orleans, than in other parts 
of, th Union, and, greater, attention is paid to the details of the, cuisine. This I ay perhaps be accounted for by the French inhabitants and consequent 
Gallic tastes and feelings.
Th6 ladies, have 6 table d'hote appropriated to them
&JoPe could not understand why they were to have this
indulgence,, if indulgence it can be called, and I wondered at~first , why they 
could not wait till the hour of their husband's return from 'change, for their
afternoon, and, what we consider, principal meal.
I found out during my stay, that eating was, to judge from I the frequency of its 
recurrence, the favourite amusement ofthe ladies of New Orleans. 
They breakfasted at nine, then a luncheon was spread at eleven, dinner at four, tea 
at six supper at nine o'clock; at all these hours, a gong
remendous power sounds clangingly through the hotel,
summoning the fair boarders from their different apartments A to join in the social 
meal.
About one hundred ladies, I was told, sat down daily to these feminine repasts. I do not think that. English women would submit to this, and great credit is due 'the
fair Americans for the submission with which they give in
to the wishes oftheir lords. To be sure there is much in habit, and American women know, from their marriage day, the delights of living publicly in boarding house
while they are altogether ignorant of the charms, of a private life, the quiet delights of home, its necessary duties, and its chosen society.
It is the want of employment. to fill up their Iong leisure hours, (for though 
highly gifted, and carefully educated, American ladies are not all studious and literary)
wbich increases the number of their meals, fosters their love of dress, and creates 
the tendency to gossip.
The ladies here see but little oftheir husbands: it would be well were it otherwise. The 
influence wife
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GULF OF MEXICO.
silent great; and no women in any country are better formed use their
power with moderation and discretion, but the opportunity of exerting it. 
All day the husband absent attending to his everlasting business, acting
habits and manners, which the few short he devotes ladies' society counteract.
women take a high position in the United States; education is superior 
to that of the men, and their writings have in late years raised them to an 
elevated the ladder of literary fame.
I must return .to the internal arrangements of this hotel, which, in fact, afford an 
excellent idea of the mode life in this great capital of the Southern States.
The evenings are occupied by music and dancing: the latter is a flavourite amusement here, as I believe it to be generally in America. The ladies invite 
such gentlemen 'they think agreeable, to take part in their amusements; every evening 
till long past midnight, I was kept awake by th stirring and animated sounds occasioned by carpet dance ith its accompanying giggling, fiddling
and floor-shaking. Still, I was quite glad to hear them, for I had really 
felt for the monotonous lives led by poor ladies and had, imagined the 
gentlemen capable bargaining, liquoring and shaving.* I was have many travellers in 
the States been latter have neither remained long country to discover the 
truth, nor have they sufficiently thrown away the veil of prejudice, so as
them to see otherwise than through a glass darkly 
Our private apartments were very comfortable, well carpeted, excellent 
fires, luxurious furniture, and curtains richest blue damask. The only hotel to which I
all compare it, is that of Les Princes at Paris
Anglice taking your neighbour at a disadvantage.
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TEXA9 AND THE
I could. almost have fancied myself in that region of luxury living and civility
are white helps of the male sex, (our attendant was English,) and seven excellent
Parisian cooks; I need not add that the cuisine good ~ as, possible. 
My bed-room was delightful snow-white musquito-curtains, and endless
rockingchairs and Psyches ! really had it not been for the appearance of the tw'o 
former I should have found it hard to remember that I had not crossed the water,
An, American breakfast, (when it is good of its kind.) is not to be surpassed in any 
other country; great variety of fish and fruit, preserves of every kind, and , cakes of 
all sizes and descriptions. The buffalo-tongues are very praiseworthy, and so are the 
Philadelphia hams, which they'assert, (and I cannot deny,) whip the Westphalia
by a long chalk." I thought their far-famed buckwheat cakes delicious;'they,are 
buttered and eaten when hot but how unwholesome! nothin( g but an American
digestion could venture to indulge in them habitually.
The price of all these little enjoyments is rather high, in proportion to either Paris or 
London. For three rooms, food, lights, in short every thing (except wine) included
for my husband, myself, and my maid, the charge was seventeen dollars a day ; but 
then it must be remembered that we dieted (Yankee again) in private.
The day after our arrival, our new acquaintance Commodore Moore paid us a visit, 
accompanied by a,General Euston. The former certainly did spin us some
wonderful yarns, concerning the new country we were about to visit; but it was, all 
very amusing, only made us tile, more determined to see and judge for ourselves."
The poor Commodore since those days has done many wonderful things besides 
saying them. I was quitesorry to read in a Texan , paper that he had been accused of
piracy; he certainly appeared ready to do any thing, (as the schoolboys say, 4~ from 
pitch and toss to manslaughter") for his country.
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GULF:or MEXICO.
I did not see, in America, any, of the offensive familiarity Which is said to exist between 
masters and servants, or that objection on the part of the waiting class to attend
as servants upon those, whom the accident or acquisition of wealth had placed for the time being in a superior situation of life. In America no honest calling is
degrading, each man aspiring at some future period to hold as important a place in 
the world as another. Thus, While fulfilling the duties of a servant, be certainly
feels himself upon an equality with his present employer, who may (however 
important his present situation) have commenced life with as small an amount of
the all-powerful cash as himself This feeling, and these aspirations, naturally prevent 
any of the lowliness, and indeed servility, which is often the characteristic of 
servants in aristocratic countries; it does more, it no doubt induces that certainty of 
equality which to us is so objectionable. As sensible men, however, having entered into temporary engagement and covenant to serve, and, therefore, to obey, they & not 
(at least those who wish to maintain a good reputation., and gratify their employers)
indulge in useless vaunts of liberty and equality, but without servility, and with 
sufficient respect, do their duty during their voluntary engagement, as well, or better,
the' servants of niany other countries. The terms of service over, the former master may shake hands with, and converse in familiar terms with his quondam servant,
without fear of compromising his dignity, or coming in contact with language and 
habits inferior or different to his own. some there iAust be, whose disposition and
frame of mind are dangerously affected by this state of things; who lose the senseof 
their temporary dependence,
General Euston has likewise, I regret to learn, paid the debt of nature, having been murdered (poor old gentle,man) by a, faction. These things appear more sad when' One has 'known the parties, however slightly.
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broad sea of democratic and over-liberal opinions but I these instances~ among a 
serious,, methodical, and sensible people like the Americans, are ' rare, and by
means sufficient to controvert my opinion that, (to use the, words of the French writer, 
from whom I have previously quoted,) " the relation of servants and, masters is
not I disorganized It is rather dangerous to take English servants to the United 
States ~ there are very few comparatively speaking, whose attachment and good
sense are proof against the tempting charms and delusions of nominal equality
We had, fortunately, -any opportunities, during our stay of becoming acquainted with some Of the most wealthy merchants of this wealthy city, and I did not fail to make every inquiry of them concerning it's resources its institutions, and its capabilities as a rising commercial capital. The situation of New Orleans IS one eligibility. It can command twenty thousand miles of river navigation;, thus, indeed, having
",water privileges" on a large scale ; and then, with the sea,, its navigation is 
perfectly easy, not only directly down the Mississippi, but by a canal 
and basin to the lake o, Pontchartrain. Thus, its proximity to the ocean renders
it almost a sea-port town. The immense quantity of cotton with which the city is 
literally choked up, during that part of the year when the crop is brought in, would alone give one some faint idea of the extent of its commerce, During the time we were in the harbour, there could not have been much fewer than sixteen hundred commercial flat-bottomed boats busily engaged in it.
Louisiana, of which New Orleans is the capital, comprised in the year 1538, 
Florida, Alabama,, Mississippi, South Tennessee, and Missouri. It received its name 
from the French King. In 1718, the city of New Orleans founded. In 1732, the population amounted to five hundred whites, and two thousand , blacks In 
1812, Louisiana 'became one of the States ofthe Union. In this 
year first steamboat built on: the Mississippi
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GULF OF MEXICO.
came down the river, from, Pittsburg to New Orleans. Soon after this, the war with 
England was concluded. But previously to this year, several new settlements had 
been made, and lands were colonized in Arkansas; but the principal settlements were 
at Dauphin Island, Pensacola, and Mobile. In the, year 1727, the Jesuits and 
Ursuline nuns arrived from France, and many convents and religious
edifices were erected. In 1730, the CouncilHouse and Jail were built. During this year, 
the price of a negro was one hundred and twenty-six dollars, now it averages five
hundred!
In 1769, the colony was ceded to Spain, and in the same year the yellow fever made 
its first appearance at New Orleans. The Cathedral, or Church of St. Louis, is one of
the most interesting objects in the city, though, alas suffered to fall almost into 
ruins. It was built about this period, by the Spaniards. The architecture, though
beautiful, is said by connoisseurs,to be neither pure nor regular. 'The grand entrance, 
consisting of a semicircular, arched door, with two Tuscan columns on either side, is in the middle ofthe front part of the building, which is finely situated, in the centre of 
the Place d'Armes.  
On looking over, the annual lists of the amount of shipping in the harbour, in 
learning the value of their cargo, and in comparing, one year with another, the census, and the revenue, one cannot but consider New Orleans as an unparalleled instance of the rapid increase of prosperity.
In the, year 1802, two hundred- and fifty-six vessels, of diffierent kinds, entered the 
Mississippi. The population the city. in 1810, was twenty-four thousand five hundred
and. fifty-two having been trebled in seven years. As I before mentioned, the 
great epoch in the history of this rising city, took place in the year 1812 when the
first steamboat entered its harbour. In 1834, the city was first lighted with gas. 
In 1830, the population
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TEXAS AND THE
blacks and whites, amounted to forty nine thousand eight hundred and twenty-six. 
In ordinary years amount of deaths in New Orleans averages three thousand eight
hundred, It is calculated, that about one ,in fifty die of pulmonary consumption; and five 
hundred,, at le in passing through the acclimating process. 
According to the official details in tile record ofthe, dead, during tile year 1822, the largest number, of deaths in any one day, Of yellow fever, was sixty and of othe;
Casualties, eighty. During 1841, the highest number from yellow fever, was forty-three
and the greatest mortality sixty; thus satisfactorily showing, that the health of 
tile, city is improving.
process of draining the immense morasses, which surround New Orleans, 
is attended with great difficulty, and proceeds but slowly.
The greatest rise of the Mississippi takes place early. in file summer, when the snows melt in the north and tile hill country, When this rise takes place, the streets of New
Orleans are three or four feet below the level of the river and its inundations are 
sometimes of great service in cleansing and refreshing the city, during this season of heat and fever.
There are many charitable associations in New Orleans, and, noble institutions for the relief of the sick and poor. The churches are handsome and numerous, and the prisons remarkably well conducted.
The markets are clean, and more than usuafly well supplied with every necessary of life.  Fruit is in great abundance apples, nuts of all kinds and sizes, from the cocoa to the peccan, and pine-apples in profusion,--til latter were introduced from~ the island of Cuba.
But to return to the public buildings. We regretted having been, at New Orleans after
burning St. Charles' Theatre. I believe it was unrivalled, even in Europe, for its 
size, comfort splendour of its decorations. The cotton presses on
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'GULF Op MEXICO.
Levee are well worth seeing, as. are also the Merchants Exchange, and the Banks; the City Exchange is also handsome. 
Fires very frequent at New Orleans, partly owing large proportion of wood used 
in erecting the houses. The fire arrangements are admirable.
Their system of national education cannot be too highly praised. There is,a compelled 
tax of one per cent, on all appraised property; for this, every one instruction for 
his children, be they ever so numerous. This education comprises every branch of
knowledge, and every sort of accomplishment. The masters themselves are people of 
acknowledged worth and consideration, and receive large salaries. On 
Washington's birthday, thousands of these young citizens. of the Republic were paraded through the streets, their teachers or governors at their head; 
they.were on their way to church to fete the memory of their national hero. I noticed one
extremely pretty and lady-like person at the head of, one of the lines of girls. She was 
very young, and held down pr head, as if rather an unwilling sharer in the 
exhibition. On inquiry, 1 found she was the wife of a military man, with 
a small income, and possessing great musical talent, had been appointed singing 
mistress, with a salary of two hundred pounds p'er,annum. To an European, and
especially to an Englishman, this admixture Of the classes of 
society, seems affirst both strange and ill advised.  But lie should recollect, that 
there is not, as with us, a broad lineof demarcation to separate 
the rich or the well-born, from the poor and low; that each has, a
right to mingle with each, and that it is not the degradation of poverty, but, 
of vice and incapacity, which keeps one man below another. I am 
aware, though no politician, that in thickly~populated countries, 
and irt governments such a ours, this system of education could not be
carried out ; but in the States,, where there is plenty, of space for each man to run 
hi's career without jostling his
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TEXAS AND THE
neighbour where courage, perseverance, and talent sure  be rewarded with 
success, it is sound policy to raise as many useful citizens, few ignorant and unprincipled ones as possible.
The whole, character of the city, particularly ofthat part which is called tile 
French quarter, is very indicative of its Gallic origin. The names of the streets 
principally French, with generally an English translation beneath, such as Rue des 
Grands hommes "Great men Street, Rue des Morales," Moral Street
There are few good roads, as I found to iny particular inconvenience, being shaken 
and jolted in a manner perfectly indescribable. The streets 'are wretchedly paved
but the carriages are, good, and the springs on which they are hung, particularly 
safe and easy.
Nothing can exceed the civility of the storekeepers. It is true, they will not put 
themselves much out of their way, but thena refusal or an excuse is made with 
politeness, and you are not pressed and urged to purchase, ag YOU SO often 
are in European shops. A stranger also ,should recollect that t1le value he sets
upon his dollar~ ig different from tbe estimation in which it is held here. He 
must learn. to regard it as a sixpence, and with it as such. Dollars are not scarce at New Orleans, As a proof of this, I will mention a trifling affair, which 
occurred, I remember, soon -after our arrival ; one of our, party went into a 
watchmaker's store, to purchase a glass, for a watch. After a short delay, a gentleinan
emerged from an inner room, with his mouth filled, not only with the eternal 
quid,, but with no small portion of his dinner besides. hearing the demand, 
lie very coolly replied, , Well now, as I'm eating my dinneri if going right up and 
down town, spose you call again, and see if I've done, and then we'll put a 
glass in that watch." His surprised customer took up his property~, and slightly 
hinted that he would go to another store for: his glass. No attempt was made, to, detain
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GULF OF AIEXICo.
dollar was no more to the New Orleans trader, as I said before, than a sixpence.
We had now been a fortnight at anchor' in the Mississippi. and, like true sailors, were longing for a change variety., On the 13th of December {1843/12/13} therefore, it was with cheerful hearts, that the men manned the windlass, prepared for sea. How I enjoyed their impromptu songs; the words were rough, and the airs were still
"more so. Still, as I heard the fine voice of the boatswain leading off with
the saucy schooner off she go, Merrily on to Texas ho!
I was quite exhilarated, and felt as if no future tempests could lessen my love either for the ship or its element.
CHAPTER VII.
Sail for the Gulf of Texas-Galveston-Difficulty of crossing the bar at The mouth of the 
harbour-Captain Elliott Texas, its position, resources,.and extent.
The power ,of armies is a visible thing Formal, and circumscribed in 
time and space, But who the limits of that power shall trace,
Which a brave people into light can bring, Or hide, at will,-fi)r freedom 
combating By just revenge inflamed WORDSWORTH.
Say, what is honour ?-'Tis the finest sense Of justice which the human mind can frame. WORDSWORTH.
Dec. 13. Left New Orleans, and made sail down the river Wind and current both in our 
favour. Brought at six o'clock, in nine fathom water; cold but fine.
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Dec. 14 {1843/12/14} Working down the river; moderate breezes and fine.
At five o'clock, P.M. anchored in eight fathorn water, with fifteen fathom cable,
Dec. 15. {1843/12/15} Towards the close of this day we found ourselves
near the southwest pass out of the river, and truly rejoiced we were, for we were quite tired of mud, and snags, and longed for the blue water of the deep sea.
Dec. 16. {1843/12/16} Fresh breezes, and a bright sun, the weather was
rather cold, but the freshness of the air coming over tile sea was delightful, and we were all enjoying in anticipation, the, delights of the wild country to which were bound '
Dec. 17. {1843/12/17} Strong breezes, and cloudy. The seems delighted to
be in her own element again, fresh water evidently does not agree with her; she is going nine and ten knots an hour, and there is scarcely any motion, the 
wind is so fair.
The land of Texas is very low, and the Guide-books mention three trees, the only 
ones on the island of Galveston, as a landmark. For these signs of 
vegetation we were anxiously looking on the morning of the second day from our leaving the river. In the meanwhile, a man was kept almost constantly in the
chains sounding for bottom. This precaution is I believe highly necessary in this part of the Gulf Late in the evening we sounded in ten fathom water.
Dec. 18. {1843/12/18} Sounding all the morning ten fathom, then eight, seven and five, in quick succession. This did not seem to me very agreeable, from the lowness 
of the island, and the circumstance of the wind blowing on shore thick sea-mist too, and we could scarcely see the length of the ship ahead. From time to time the fog 
however rolled suddenly away, and, during one, of these intervals, the man at the 
masthead sung land on the weather bow."
This was at eleven o'clock, A. M. The wind had freshened considerably, and there was a. disagreeable drizzling,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
rain falling, when at a distance of three or four miles Galveston we shortened sail, and 
at noon distinctly out the town of Galveston. I beg its pardon, I am aware 
that city" is the correct term for so important a place
fog and. mist had by this time considerably lessened density, and we could 
distinguish a few gray looking houses, a church or two, and some masts of vessels, but the latter were neither numerous nor imposing. Allowance be made
for this poorness of appearance, when we remember, that we saw all these 
things through an incessant rain, which made them, and indeed the whole
prospect, look cheerless and forlorn.
Before our arrival we had heard much of the dangers attending an entrance into the 
harbour. The small depth water on its bar had always been held up to us in
terrorem and as a reason for avoiding this part of the coast in, the Dolphin 
altogether. All these recollections made "jjo naturally anxious for the appearance of the pilot, for. whom we made a signal immediately after shortening sail  As he did not make his appearance we stood off and waited with some degree of impatience, in
hopes of seeing his boat leave the shore.
We spent at least, three hours in this manner, shortening the time as well as we could in abusing all the government authorities indiscriminately, and pilots in
At length, however, to our great relief, a large steamer, the New York, which we 
bad observed some time previously occupied in getting up her Steam seen coming
towards us; her high-pressure engine puffing, and blowing, like some huge elephant out Of breath and her deck covered with curious passengers.
When she had arrived within speaking-trumpet distance, the captain hailed 
us through this instrument, which is still in,general-use in American ships, and gave
"Alls,the welcome information that he had a pilot on board. We were delighted; as 
we now saw some chance of
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TIMAS AND THE

coming to an anchor that day the Prospect,of spending night standing off and, on was by means agreeable
before taking leave of us, the captain, in a true Yankee spirit. of a making an 
operation," offered to tow us over the bar. This was on his own, account, and for this
of, civility, and trifling assistance, the performance occupied him half an hour he
demanded, the moderate, sum of one hundred dollars!--course the offer was declined however, as it was made civilly hats mutually: raised in token of 
amity, arid the New York, puffed back to her station in the harbour.
We had now received ;the pilot on board. He, was Englishman and 9 good sailor, as well as a safe and experienced pilot Them is at present a great want, these
useful individuals at Galveston, and also,7-as out own pilot informed us---4n 
insufficiency of buoys; a few rotten barrels being placed here and there, often in
wrong. places, and, not seldom, being removed by accident Or malice.
A strong northerly wind,had prevailed for some days and a considerable quantity of 
water had in consequence been blown out of the' harbour'; the bar was thusIess
covered even than usual, and it became necessary to trip the vesseL This operation 
consists in running the guns forward, and shifting the ballast; thus she was put onan
even keel, and the chances of, her' bumping (as it is called) on, the ~ bar are considerably lessened. The crossing this formidable impediment was, a 
moment of Lpreat excitement lead was thrown into the sea intermission-, it  
by the mark' four quarter less threel'-, by' the. mark I two- quarter less two," called
out rapidly one after other, by, the man in the chains NOW was the trying,~ moment; 
even the pilot anxious, and we every moment, 
expected to feel bottom. After the, suspense of 'a minute, or indeed less pilot drew a long breath,:and exclaimed all safe sir
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GULF OF MEXICO.
now -the guns Were run aft again with all despatch, And we were steering straightinto the harbour.
After crossing the bar, there is an extremely narrow channel through which vessels 
must necessarily pass before they can, arrive at a safe anchorage. in this we felt
the bottom, or rather side, but it is of mud, and thereis no danger in fhe, contact. another half hour we found ourselves safely,anchored in Galveston harbour, within 
a hundred and fifty. yards of the strand, in four fathoms water. After dinner
Ne were agreeablv surprised by a visit from Captain Elliott, her Britannic Majesty's 
Charge d'Affaires in this Republic. We had heard, much to our regret, that 
Captain Elliott was at Washington, the present seat of government, and had such  
should have lost much useful information, as regards, the' republic, 
and infinite amusement and enjoyment personally.
Previously to my arrival I, confess to having known but little of Texas, its position, 
its resources, or its extent. It that my ignorance in this respect may be 
shared by others, and if so, some account of the republic not be unwelcome.,
Texas is bounded on the north, by the Red river, on he south by the Gulf,of Mexico, 
on the east, by the Sabine River and Louisiana, and on the west by the Rio del Norte.
Comprising within these limits area of nearly five hundred thousand square miles. It
three hundred miles territory bordering Gulf of Mexico, its coast lying nearly N.W. and SE.  Supposing Texas to have an average breadth 'Of three to four hundred miles, and 
extending in a nothwesterly direction seven, hundred, its Surface may, be said to present an inclined plane gradually descending towards the sea.,, Towards the northwest is an, elevated range of hills, (spurs of the Rocky Mountains 
whence several rivers, take t ir source , flowing to
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TEXAS ANb Tim,
the Gulf of Mexico in a. direction nearly parallel to each other and about sixty 
miles apart.
Texas has three divisions of country differing each otherto a remarkable extent, not only as regards its surface and soil, but also its climate. These are termed respectively, by its inhabitants, the Low, the Rolling, aiid, the Hilly Country.
The first of these, bordering upon,'', tile Gulf of Mexico, and along the whole line of coast is, a perfectly level low tract extending about sixty, seventy miles. To these lowlands, which are certainly not healthy, but wonderfully rich and 
productive, Succeed the beautifully undulating Rolling Prairies; nothing can surpass this portion of Texas in natural attractions: its ever verdant prairies 
resemble our most beautiful parks; magnificent clumps of timber are scattered over,
surface, and its valleys are watered by quick-running limpid streams. ,The third 
division comprises the high broken, mountainous tract more to the north, at distance of three or four hundred miles from the seacoast here are said to be table-lands, 
with a soil scarcely inferior to the former divisions, and fully equal to either of,
the others in beauty and climate. This country, as also the entire tract to the 
northward, has not yet been sufficiently explored to form judgment of merits
The principal rivers, commencing from the eastward are the Sabine and, the Neches, both flow Sabine' Lake, out of which there is A narrow inlet Gulf, with a bar across 
the channel, having six feet of water; this is the only mud-bar on the 
coast, those of", harbours westward being of hard sand. Trinity flows into Galveston
Bay, the Brazos directly into the Gulf with a most dangerous bar
at its ernbouchure, having not more than five or six feet of water.
The Colorado flows into the Bay of Matagorda, which like the Bay of Galveston, and 
almost all the other bays
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GULF'OF MEXICO.
coast, is only separated from the Gulf of Mexico narrow strip of land rarely more 
than a mile or two in breadth
bay is nearly forty miles in length, and has a bar entrance with seven feet of 
water. The Guadaloupe St. Antonio, and Neches, are inferior in size to I have
previously mentioned, but, like them, flow similar long narrow bays,'separated 
from the sea by sandy ridge of a mile or more in breadth. The Bay of Aransas
which receives the Guadaloupe and San Antonio rivers connected with the sea by an 
extremely 'narrow, channel with six feet and a half of water over its bar.
The Rio Grande del Norte, forming the western boundary Texas, rises in the Rocky 
Mountains; it is said not to be navigable, on account of its rapids, till within two
,hundred miles of the sea, near the town of Loredo; thence, to the Gulf, it is described as a noble stream, Three or four hundred yards wide, and of considerable depth
Republic of Texas most undoubtedly owes its origin to Moses Austin, who first 
conceived the plan of establishing a considerable colony in that country. This
effected by his son, Stephen Austin, assisted by Mr. Williams ; both Americans by birth, and men of distinguished talent and enterprise. With the' latter we had the good fortune to become acquainted Texas had to thank him for a great deal of valuable
information regarding tile country and its history. Previous to the year 1821, the 
central part of Texas appears have been only frequented by roving bands of Indians.
There were a few settlements on its eastern frontier, bordering upon Louisiana; and the Mexicans, to the amount four or five thousand, were established in the neighbourhood of San Antonio de Bexar, and Goliad, or La Badia
Moses Austin received his original grant in the 'Year, 1820 when Mexico was under the rule of Spain, and
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TEXAS AND THE
died' soon after in the United States, whilst preparing t,put ilis plans for' colonization 
into , effect. Soon after his father's death, Stephen Austin started with a small body
of settlers from New Orleans, and after arriving Texas having carefully explored the country, selected, as the lands most desirable, a tract of country 
lying between the Brazos and the Colorado river, at about seventy 
Miles distance from the, sea. After a short period, he returned to the United States, 
and made arrangement, f., colonizing on a more extended scale.
In tile -mean time, Mexico had finally succeeded in throwing off the yoke of Spain. 
On Austin's return, therefore, to his colony, in 1822, what was his mortification 'to find
that, before he could proceed with tile distribution of lands, it would be necessary for 
him to proceed to Mexico, to solicit from the new government a confirmation of 
the grant made to his father! It was at this period, and whilst the Cortes were debating upon Austin's petition, and also other applications of a similar nature, that Iturbide overthrew the existing government, and proclaimed himself Emperor.
Austin had no difficulty in obtaining the object of his Visit. Mexico has always been 
too weak to govern her distant provinces, and, at this period, being utterly unable to
protect her settlers in Texas, and indeed, her owr, frontiers, from the ravages of hostile 
Indians, she Was only too glad to avail herself of , any offers made b foreigners to colonize and. settle in the rich plains Texas., This seems to have continued
to be the prevailing. feeling of the successive governments in Mexico,from 1822 till tile 
year 1830 ; and, in that interval almost the whole of Texas was granted to different
individuals, who''J. were called impresarios, or contractors. The contract was, that thev were, to introduce into the country, and settle a stipulated number of families, in order to be entitled to the land granted by government. To return, however, to Stephen Austin.
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GULF OF MEXiCO.
had Iturbide granted his petition, wheri' the Emperor was himself dethroned by Santa 
Anna, who ediately annulled all grants of land made by bis predecessor 
power. Thus, Austin had again to solicit the Cortes a confirmation of his 
former grant. This last succeeded in obtaining, and soon after returned Texas.  
struggle, with, a variety of difficulties His infant colony" now consisting of- about
three hundred families, was to be governed without any controlling power, unless 
we except the moral influence superior mental qualities enabled him to exercise. the
rude settlers. The population was now increasing. In the year 1825, nearly the whole of Texas had been granted away to impresarios, and in 1830 we find that settlements 
had sprung up in every the country.
CHAPTER VIII.
political position of Texas during, the first years of her colonization-Events which were,the more immediate cause of --her Declaration of Independence.
And ' from these grounds, concluding as'we doe, Warres causes diuerse; so 
by.consequence Diuerse we must conclude their natures too; For warre,
proceeding from the Omnipotence, No doubt is holy, wise, and without error, 
The sword of justice, and of sin the terror.
Lord BROOKE
No country has been more calumniated and misrepresented. than Texas, She has been called the Alsatia United States; and again, the pestiferous swamps
Of Texas, pillaged from the too confiding-: Mexicans
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TEXAS AND THE
&C. &c, The greater part of these, misstatements, that have, appeared in England, 
concerning Texas, are said to have been circulated by the Mexican bond-holders,
and others interested in the prosperity of Mexico.* I The Americans, however, have been far more bitter in their attacks upon the unoffending Republic. The Southern
States, were doubtless influenced in their conduct by jealousy of far superior soil and climate of Texas, and her probable commercial advantages.
The Northern States of America, on the other hand, are ranged against the Republic, 
on account of the existence of slavery in the country, and ftom a feeling
that th~' interests of Texas are thereby connected with the slave. holding States of the 
Union, and thus increasing their power
It appears to me, that few people have ever had more just cause than tbe'Texans, 
for throwing off an oppressive yoke, and separating themselves from a
nation, which had so long proved its incapacity even for Self government, Previous to 
Texas declaring her independence, the Mexican Republic had been
constantly a prey to internal dissensions ; and civil war, in all its horrors, had 
desolated the country. Her political institutions had been changed or overthrown,
according to the interest or caprice of each'
The Mexican debt to British bond-holders amounts to nearly ten millions sterling, 
and Santa Anna, in the year 1837, either despairing of ever recovering Texas,
or hoping to acquire- powerful allies in. the Mexican bond. holders, made over to that 
body lands in Texas to the extent of forty millions of acres, as further security
for the principal and interest of their bonds. These lands were to be specially 
hypothecated, until the 'total extinction of the bonds, and- the government engaged to give comple'te possession to the guaranteed lands. This transaction is altogether so strange and ridiculous, as to'be Scarcely credible.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
successive military chief of the country. The rule of Political leaders was 
invariably marked by bloodshed cruelty, and oppression, and the country was in
a ant state of anarchy and revolution.
I shall now endeavour to show the political position of Texas during the first years of her colonization,~ and to describe the, events which were the more cause
of her declaration of independence. under the constitution of 1824, Mexico was a
confederated Republic, somewhat similar tothe United States,having, 
Vice-President, Senate, and a House of Representatives as a central government. Each State had, its separate independent government. The Mexican government, as I have before mentioned, having itself obliged, for its own security, to encourage
colonization in Texas, declared by a decree of the Cortes, 7th May, 1824
That Texas is to be annexed to the Mexican province Cohahuila, until it is of 
sufficient importance to form a separate State when it is to become an independent state of the Mexican Republic, equal to the other States ich the same 
is composed, free, sovereign, and independent in whatever exclusively relates to its 
internal government and administration."
decree was declared inviolable," and the act can never be reformed."
was then, on the faith of this decree, that new settlers were constantly arriving 
in Texas, from all countries and state of things continued till the year 1830, when the
increasing prosperity of the country received its first check.
Bustamente, an adventurer, who by intrigue or bloodshed, had contrived to possess 
himself of the first office in Mexican Republic, prohibited the furthur ingress of
foreigners and issued several decrees inimical to the interests of Texas  The Mexican 
government, apparently jealous influence and prosperity, seems now to have
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~TEXAS. AND TIM

made several enactments, at variance' with constitution of 1824 To,effect these, it was 
necessary to introduce a considerable force of Mexican, soldiers into the country. thus, it eventually ended, in Texas "being placed almost military rule. It would be difficult to give adequate, idea of the numerous acts of injustice oppression the settlers were subjected at period. They were at length driven to resistance the Military Commandants, or governors, were soon forced out of the country, and with them 
the whole of Mexican troops-
The oppressive rule of Bustamente was, fortunately brought to a conclusion in the 
year 1832. His object a central government, instead of the federal constitution, but finding himself unable to cope, with the superior mental powers and military conduct of  Santa Anna, he resigned his office in favour of General Pedraza, and early in 1833, Santa Anna was proclaimed President	
the Texans having now had sufficient experience of the bad effects arising from 
their being under the administration ofthe State of Cohahuila, resolved to petition 
the Supreme Government for a separation of the provinces and demanded that Texas should be granted an independent state government, in conformity with the
compact,and Act of Cortes,of 1824.
The memorial set forth, that, Texas was virtually without any government at all; 
that the language of the people was different; that Cohahuila and Texas were
altogether dissimilar in soil, climate and natural productions; that owing to the 
numerical inequality oftheir respective representatives, the enactment af laws
beneficial to Texas could only emanate from the, generous courtesy of her 
constitutional partner, and, thait legislative advantages to the one might, from
incompatibility of interests be ruinous to the other.
Protection from Indian depredations, they declared to
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GULF OF MEXICO.
vital importance to Texas which protection Cohahuila unable render. The Indians 
in, their immediate neighbourhood had been denied, justice, which would independent Texas., Finally, Texas, posessed elements for a state government,  
attachment the federal constitution and to the, republic pledged their lives and 
honours.
Stephen Austin was the person selected by the people proceed Mexico, and to submit their petition for the of the Cortes. Austin, after waiting nearly year capital, and being able to gain no reply to petition which he had been charged, wrote, to the
authorities Texas, recommending them at once to organize State de facto, without waiting for the decision Congress.
was considered by the government as a treasonable proceeding, and shortly 
afterwards Austin was arrested at Sattillo, whilst on his return to Texas.
brought back to the capital, he was imprisoned in the dungeons of the Inquisition for 
upwards of a year. He not return to Texas till more than two years had elapsed
date of his departure, and not until Santa Anna overthrown the federal 
constitution of the Republic, established in its place a Central Consolidated Government, rendering him wholly independent of the States of Confederacy, and 
thus, in fact, becoming military dictator Of Mexico.,
several of the States were of course opposed to this change: some, indeed, resorted to arms, but were unable resist the power of the dictator. The constitutional
authorities of Cohahuila and Texas assembled at Mondova protested against this change of government.  however, driven from office by a military force under General Cos. The government was then dissolved; and the Governor, and other members of the legislature, were imprisoned. Thus, the central government was established-in 
opposition to the, will of 
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texas AND TIIE~
States people by forcible unconstitutional destruction social compact sworn support 
juncture Austin released Santa Anna becoming alarmed public meetings 
demonstrations opposition Texas sending Austin country mediator
Public meeting after return Texas made the following speech, giving very fully his
opinions or tbe I state of affairs, and also recommending such measures advisable
pursued
left Texas," said Austin April 1833 the public agent of the people, for the purpose,
applying for the admission of ~ this, country, into the Mexican federation, as a state 
separate 'froni Cohahuila application was based upon, the, constitutional rights of Texas, and was sustained ~ by me ~ in city of Mexico to the utmost of, abilities. No 
honourable means were, spared to effect the objects of my and to oppose the
Texas into a' territory was attempted. I rigidly adhered to the instructions and 
wishes,: of my constituents, so ~ far as they were Communicated to me. "My efforts 
to serve Texas involved labyrinth of Mexicah politics! ' Twas arrested, and suffered a long persecution, an(l, imprisonment.
consider,it, to be my duty account of these events to my constituents, and 
will, therefore at this time merely observe that I have never, in, ithy manner
agreed to any thing, or admitted any thing that would- comprornise the, constitutional or vested rights of Texas. These rights belong to the people and can, onlk be surrendered by them.
fully hoped to have found texas peace and in tranquillity, but regret commotion all 
disorganized, all in anarchy, and threatened with immediate hostilities, This state of 
things is deeply to, be lamented; it is a great misfortune, but one Which has not been
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GULF OF IVXEXICO.
produced any acts of the people of this country. On it is the natural and inevitable 
consequence revolution fhat, has spread all over Mexico, and of impolitic measures, both of the general state governments, with regard to Texas. The people
are not to blame, and cannot be justly censured farmers, cultivators of the 
soil, and are pacific from interest, from occupation, and from inclination.
uniformly endeavoured to sustain the, constitution and the, public 
peace, and have never deviated duty as Mexican citizens.
acts of imprudence have been committed by individuals evidently 
resulted from the revolutionary state of whole nation, the imprudent and censurable state. conduct state authorities, and the total want of, local government in Texas.
It is indeed, a source of surprise and creditable congratulation, ' that so few acts 
of this description have occurred under the, peculiar circumstances of the times.
It is, however, to be, remembered, that acts of this nature not acts of the people, 
nor, is Texas responsible them The were, as I before observed, the natural 
consequences of the revolutionary state of the Mexican nation and Texas certainly did not originate that revolution neither have the people, as a people, participated in it
The consciences hands of the Texans are free from censure clean
The revolution Mexico is drawing to a, close. The object is, to change the, form of 
government, destroy the federal consiftution of 1824, and establish a central, or
consolidated government. The states are to be converted into provinces.
Whether the 'people of Texas ought or ought not to agree to this change. 
and relinquish all or a part of their constitutional and vested rights, under the constitution of 1824 question of the most vital importance; one that he deliberate
consideration of the people, and
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TEXAS AND THE -
only be decided by them, fairly convened purpose.
As a citizen of Texas, I have a right to opinion important a matter. I have no other right, 
pretend no other. In the report which I consider to make to my constituents, I 
intend to give views the,present, situation of the country, and as to
the constitutional and natural rights of Texas at this time, merely touch this subject
under Spanish government, Texas Was a separate distinct province. As such 
it had a separate local organization. It was one Of the unities that-, composed the general mass of, the nation and participated in the war of the revolution, 
represented, in the constituent Congress of Mexico, formed the constitution of 
1824. This constituent congress, so far from destroying this unity, expressly
recognised and confirmed it by the law of May 7, 1824, which united Texas with 
Cohahuila, provisionally, especial guarantee of being made a state of Mexican 
confederation, AS soon as it possessed the necessary elements.
Tliat law, and the federal constitution, gave to Texas specific political existence, 
and vested in its inhabitants defined rights, which can only be relinquished
by the people of Texas, acting for themselves and not as 'a part of Cohahuila, 
f r Ahe reason that union with Cohahuila was limited, and only gave power to
the state of Cohahuila and Texas to govern the time being, but always subject 
to the vested rights Texas. The, State, therefore, cannot relinquish vested rights,
by agreeing to the change of government or by any other act, unless expressly authorized people of Texas to do so; neither can the general government of Mexico legally deprive Texas of the consent of the people. These are my opinions
An important question now presents itself
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GULF OF MEXICO
people of this country. The federal constitution of 1824 t to be destroyed, and a central 
government established and the people will soon be called upon to say
whether they agree to this change or not. This matter the most calm discussion, the 
most mature deliberation and the most perfect union. How i t is to be I see but one way, and that is by a general consultation of the people, by means of delegates elected for purpose, with full powers to give such an answer, in name of Texas, to this 
question, as they may deem and to adopt such measures as the tranquillity and
salvation ofthe country may require.
it *IS my duty to state, that General Santa Anna verbally and expressly authorized me to say to the people of Texas that lie was their friend, that he wished for their prosperity, and would do all lie could to promote it; and in, tho new constitution, he would use his 
influence give to the people of Texas a special organization, ted to their
education, habits, and situation.
Several of the most influential and intelligent men in Mexico, and especially the Minister of Relations and War, expressed themselves in the same manner. 
These declarations afford another and a more urgent necessity for a at consultation, 
of all Texas, in order to inform the general government, and especially
General Santa Anna, kind of organization will suit the education, habits,
And situation of this people.
It is also proper for me to state, that in all my conversations with the President 
and Ministers, and men of influence, advised that no troops should be sent to Texas, and no cruisers along the coast. I gave it as my decided opinion, that the 
inevitable consequence of sending an armed force to this country, 
would be war. I pi stated that there was a sound and correct moral 
principle in the people of Texas, that was abundantly sufficient to or 
put down, all turbulent and seditious movements, but that this moral principle Could
not, and would
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TEXAS AND THE
unite any armed force sent against this country contrary resist and repel it, and
ought to do so
Thls point presents another strong reason why the people of, Texas Should meet in general consultation anarchy, threatened with hostilites armed vessels are capturing 
all they can catch on the coast, and acts of piracy are said to be committed under cover of tile Mexican flag. Can this state Ofthings exist without 
precipitating the country into a war ? cannot; and, therefore, believe, that it is our
and solemn duty, a-, Mexicans and as Texans to represent the evils that are 
likely to result froin thiS mistaken and most impolitic policy in the military movements
friends, I can truly say, that no one has been, or" is now, more anxious than myself to 
keep trouble away, from this country. No one has been, or now is, more faithful to his
duty as a Mexican citizen, and no one has, Personally sacrificed, or suffered more in 
the discharge of, this duty, I have uniformly been opposed to have any thing to do with the family political quarrels of the Mexicans
Texas needs peace, and a local government; its inhabitants are farmers, and they need a calm and a quiet life,. But how can any one, remain indifferent,' when our rights, our all, appear to be in jeopardy; When, it is our duty, as well as 
our obligation, as good Mexican citizens, to express our opinions on the present
state of things, and to represent our situation to th government ? It is impossible. The 
crisis is such, as' to bring it home to the judgment of every man, that some
thing must be done, and that without delay. The question will, perhaps, bc asked, 
what are we to do? I have already indicated my opinion. Let all personalities,
divisions, or excitements, or passion, or violence, be banished from among us. Let a 
general consultation o
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GULF OF IMEXICO.
people of Texas be convened as speedily as possible: to be composed of the best and most calm, and intelligent men in the country; and let them decide what
representations ought to be made to the general government, and what ought to be done in future."
I have copied at full length the sentiments and opinions of Austin, which he expressed on his return from Mexico, because his opinion on this important subject had great
weight with all parties. The character of Austin stood high, as an unprejudiced 
observer, a just man, and a disinterested member of the state.  Even the Mexicans,
though they had uniformly oppressed, and persecuted him yet in the main, did 
justice to his unbending principles of honour and integrity. The account given, on the
authority of such a man as Austin, of the motives and grievances ich influenced the colonists, should, I think, go far in refutation of the many unjust, and ill-founded
that have been made against the Texan people.
Though repeatedlv stigmatized as owing their origin to ruffians, and runaway rogues from every part of the world, we find the new settlers influenced in their struggles for
freedom, by feelings of which more civilized, and lonzer established countries, might be justly proud.
The colonists 'certainly were inclined to treat the opinions of, Austin with 
deference, and to be guided by his judgment; and it is probable, that had Mexico, at this crisis, adopted conciliating measures, and acted with common justice towards the colony, the progress of disaffection and revolt would have been arrested, and
Texas Would have been retained as one of the States of the confederacy.
How long, however, it would have Continued so, it is not for me to determine ; it is 
not probable, that a country formed of such independent spirits, would have
remained under any yoke, particularly that of a state language and habits were so 
essentially different
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TEXAS,AND THE
from their own, and whose capital was distant from their frontier at least twelve 
hundred miles.
CHAPTER IX.
progress of the struggle for Texan Independence-Declaration
'of the people of Texas in General Convention assembled-Cruelty of General Santa 
Anna-Battle of San Jacinto-Total rout of the Mexican army.
And tell me haughty harte, confess a truth, What man was aye so safe in glorie's 
porte But traynes of treason (oh the more the ruth) Could undermine the bulwarks of this forte, And raze his ramparts down in sundrie sort? search all thy
books, and thou shalt find therein, That honour is more harde to holde than winne.
GASCOIGNE
IN Conformity with the advice of Austin, committees of safety and vigilance were now formed, and resolutions passed, to insist rights, under federal constitution of 1824
Troops were organized, and every preparation made to resist the Mexican forces, which were expeet6d to be, sent against them. In these anticipations, they 
were not disappointed; General Cos soon aftpr-~~` arrived at 
Copano, and marched thence to Bexar.
The first meeting of the hostile troops,was at Gonzales The Mexicans, in attack upon the town, were repul-ed",-:1 with great bravery,, and suffered 
considerable loss, hoth in killed and wounded. Shortlv after this, a more important
victory was gained capture of the town, and garrison of Goliad great quantity of
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GVIY OF MEXICO.
stores, besides three hundred stand of arms, and two cannon. This was followed by 
the election of Austin as Commander-in-Chief of the Texan Army nd the new
leader, under the banner of the Mexican federal constitution, immediately marched upon Bexar, a town strongly garrisoned by the Mexican troops, General Cos.
After severall engagements in the neighbourhood, which invariably resulted in favour 
of the colonists, thetown of Bexar was stormed by a party of three hundred
volunteers. Mexicans behaved with determined bravery, withstand the fury of their 
assailants; upwards hundred had fallen before the unerring rifles of the Texans, and on the fourth day the garrison agreed to capitulate
General Cos and his party were allowed to return into Mexico with their arms and 
private property, under their of honour, that they would never again assist in any 
way, to oppose the re-establishinent of the federal constitution of 1824. The Texans, by the achievement possession of a large quantity of military stores, including
nineteen pieces of ordnance and two swivel guns, several hundred stand of arms, and abundance of ammunition.
country was now freed for the present from Mexican troops, and a general convention of delegates, the different municipalities of Texas, was at San Filipe de Austin. On the 
3d of November 1835, a state government was organized for Texas, and their
motives and principles proclaimed in the following "manifesto
Declaration of the people of Texas in general convention assembled.
Whereas, General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, and military chieftains, have, by 
force, of arms, overthe federal institutions I of Mexico, and dissolved social
compact which existed between Texas and the
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TEXAS ANP THE
other members of the Mexican,confederacy; now, the PeopIe of Texas, 
availing themselves of their natural rights' solemnly,declare
first That they have taken up arms in defence Of their rights and liberties, 
which are threatened by the encroachments of military despots, defence of the
republican principles of the federal constitution of Mexico
Second.-That Texas is no longer mora ly or civilly bound by, the compact of Union 
stimulated by the, generosity and sympathy common to a free people, tile, offer their 
support and assistance to such, of t le members; Mexican confederacy, as will take
up arms against military despotism.
-Third  That they do not acknowledge that the present authorities of the nominal 
Mexican Republic hthe right to govern within the limits of Texas.
Fourth.-That they will not cease to carry - war' against the said authorities, 
whi I lst their troops are within the limits of Texas.
Fifth.-That they hold it to be their right, disorganization of the Federal 
System, and the reign despotism, to withdraw from the Union,, to
establish aii independent government, or to adopt such measures as they may deem 
best calculated to protect their rights and liberties; but that they will
continue faithful to the Mexican, GoverInmpnt, so long as that nation is governed 
by the constitution I and laws that were formed for the, government, of the
political association.
Sixth-Tlilat Texas is responsible for the expenses of her armies now in the field.
Seventh-'Tbat the public faith of Texas is pledged for the payment of any debts 
contracted by her agents,
Eighth-That she will reward by donations,, in land all who, volunteer their 
services in her present I struggle and receive them as citizens.
These Declarations we solemnly avow to the world call God to witness their truth and 
sincerity, and invoke
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GUILF'OF MEXICO.
defeat and, disgrace upon our heads should we prove guilty of duplicity."
B. T. ARCHER, President.
struggle for independence had now fairly commenced; two, months had scarcely 
elapsed after the departure General Cos, when almost all the military 
rosources of Mexico were brought against Texas, directed Santa Anna in person. This 
invasion seems to have occurred at a most unfortunate period for the. settlers.
Austin, with several others of their most influential men, hid been sent as Commissioners to the United States, seek assistance from those who might be 
expected to sympathize in the cause of independence, and another party had
marched towards Matamoros on the Mexican frontier.
The town of, San Antonio de Bexar was thus left defenceless, its garrison of one 
hundred and forty men being obligred to take refuge in the fort of the Alamo on
river. Her' they defended them opposite side of the for a fortnight against a 
force amounting to four thousand men. The Mexicans though frequently 
repulsed, at length,succeeded in taking the'place by storm, and the whole of its garrison were put to the sword.  the final struggle, there were left but seven men, and
these were refused quarter. It is also asserted that ,"such were
the feelings of exasperation evinced by the ''Mexicans from
the determined resistance made by the Texans, that the bodies
of the dead were subjected to every sort of indignity. The
obstinate courage of the ~~'Texans is said'to have caused them
a loss of nearly O,K fifteen hundred men, and no treatment thought sufficiently bad for 
their conquered foes, living or dead. 
Thus fell the Alamo after a defence highly creditable to Texan bravery and military skill. 
Shortly after this period, the invaders obtained another advantage over CoIonel
Fannin and a body of three hundred men. In this instance Mexicans unparalleled
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treachery and cruelty. Santa Anna came up with Colonel Fannin and his little 
army, as they were retreating,superior numbers of the Mexicans. The
Texan Co onel, notwithstanding disparity numbers engaged. enemy and fought 
with desperation till darkness put an end to the conflict. Four or five hundred 
of ,enemy fallen befbre the deadly aim of the Texans, entrenched themselves 
in the prairie, resolved to sell lives as dearly as possible. During the night,
Mexicans received a reinforcement, and Colonel Fannin determined to 
surrender, provided he could honourable capitulation. propositions made Colonel Fannin were accepted by Santa Anna, and terms capitulation were then 
signed and formally interchanged.
According to these terms, the Texans were to surrender, give -up their arms, on 
condition of their lives being spared, and, thoir being allowed to retire into the United
States. No sooner, however, were they in his power than ,Santa Anna, 
totally'regardless of faith and honour, order. massacred, under 
circumstances of aggravated cruelty
On the 11th of -March a convention assembled at Washington, had declared Texas 
a free, sovereign and independent republic." A constitution was framed and
executive government appointed, to act until other elections made by 
the people. The provisional government retired Galveston Island, remained  conclusion of the war.
The Texans were now thoroughly exasperated by the cruelty, and 'want, of faith 
they had experienced at the hands of the Mexicans, and fortunately for them,
Santa, Anna, found at length a rival more than his match in General Houston. The Texan army under his command was now posted on the Colorado river, and amounted, about twelve hundred. men. The enemy, having received
considerable reinforcements, occuped the river both
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GULF Or MEXICO.
and below him; General Houston, therefore, apprehensive being surrounded, 
deemed it advisable to retire to the Brazos, which he crossed on the 12th of April : then he led his troops to the Buffalo Bayou, and down its right
bank to within a short distance of its junction with the San Jacinto river.
The Mexican army soon approached, and occasional skirmishes took place during 
the day, until Santa Anna, withdrew his troops to a position on the banks of the 
San Jacinto, and there commenced a fortification about a mile
distant from the Texan camp. Houston had ordered the bridge, on the only road 
communicating with the Brazos, be destroyed, thus cutting off all possibility of the 
enemy's escape. The Texans commenced the attack at half past three, and a most 
sanguinary conflict ensued. The Colonists fought as men only do when they contend for life and freedom, and they were irresistible. I extract from General Houston's 
report of the battle, of San Jacinto. About nine o'clock on the morning of 
the 21st, the enemy were reinforced I by five -:hundred choice troops, under the
command of General Cos, increasing their effective force to upwards of fifteen 
hundred men, whilst our aggregate force for the field numbered only seven hundred
and' eighty-three,The conflict lasted about eighteen minutes from the
time of close action until we were in possession of the enemy's encampment, taking 
one piece of cannon, four stand of colours, all their camp equipage, stores and
baggage." The conflict in the breastwork lasted but a few moments; many 
of the troops encountered hand to hand, and not having the advantage of bayonets
on our side, our riflemen used their pieces as war-clubs them off at the 
breach. The rout commenced at half-past four, and the pursuit by the main 
army, cot'itinued until twilight battle, enemy's loss was six hundred and thirty killed,
among 4hom was one General Officer, four Colonels
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TEXAS AND THE
two Lieutenant-Colonels two Seco'nd Lieutenant-Colonels, n Cadet Prisoners, seven
hundred thirty. seven 'Captains,  President General, Santa Anna, General Cos,
four Colonels, Aids de Camp to General Santa Anna and the Colonel of the 
Guerrero Battalion are, included in the number, General Santa Anna was not taken 
until the 22nd and General Cos yesterday very few having escaped. 
About six hundred muskets,' three hundred sabres, and two hundred pistols, have
been collected since the action; several hundred mules and horses were taken, and 
nearly, twelve thousand dollars in specie. Por several days previous to the action 
our troops were engaged in forced marches, exposed to excessive rains, and the 
additional inconvenience of extremely' bad roads, badly supplied with
rations , and clothing, yet amid every difficulty they bore up cheerfulness and 
fortitude,and performed their marches with spirit and alacrity-there was no murmur.
An important blow was now given to the Mexican power in Texas; and be it 
remembered this decisive victory over the chosen troops of Mexico, was gained by a 
mere,handful of raw undisciplined volunteers, armed with rifles alone, and
suddenly drawn together from their agricultural pursuits to defend their liberty and 
independence
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~LILF OF 31EXICO.
CHAPTER X.
Santa Anna brought prisoner to General Houston-Termination of the struggle, and 
recognition of the republic~ Constitution of Texas.
Thou in a moment canst defeate The mighty conquests ofthe proude,
And blast the laurels of the greate, Thou canst make brightest glorie set 0'
th' sudden in a cloud. HABINGTON. ~
As has been already mentioned, the prisoners of importance taken on this' 
occasion were Santa Anna the President, and General Cos; the former was captured on tile day following that on which the engagement *as fought - he was discovered 
disguised, and without a vestige of soldierly uniform, wandering alone ' on the
banks of Buffalo Bayou. This was indeed a sudden and overwhelming change ; a 
terrible turn in the wheel fortune. He was secured without difficulty, as he had
no arms in his sudden flight. It was perhaps fortunate for him that the party by 
whom he was taken were ignorant of his name and rank, as the people were 
beyond exasperated against him. Santa Anna was conveyed without delay to the 
presence of General Houston having been wounded in the ankle during the
engagement, was lying underneath a tree. The head ofthe General rested upon a rough pillow, his war-'saddle being laid under his head; a blanket was spread, 
beneath him, and this was his only couch. Santa. Anna led up to him, and boldly announced himself thus Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, Presidente de, la
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TEXAS AND THE
Republica Mexicana, y General en Gefe del ejercito de operaciones-Upon this 
introduction General Houston politely requested his prisoner to take a seat on a 
medicine chest but appearing rather faint and not a1ittle agitated, the chest was 
opened for some remedy for these complaints. Having swallowed a
quantity of opium,the patient declared himself better, and found words 
to say to his captor, you were born to no ordinary destiny; you have conquered
the Napoleon of the West!" What vanity in this free. booting leader of a degraded 
and miserable people!
The President"s own account of this interview with the Mexican General, when the 
latter was a prisoner, and entirely' in his power, is very characteristic of his own 
bold and decided nature; his deadly foe was in his hands, he had proved himself 
merciless, and unworthy of faith, and had, by his own conduct, forfeited all claim. to the consideration and forbearance due towards a prisoner of war.
The place of meeting was, not one calculated to impress the Mexican with awe, or to 
give him an exalted idea either of the riches or power of his conqueror. But the
dignity of the latter did not depend upon outward show, and he received his 
prisoner, as a great man should Without parade. or any outward demonstration
of triumph. In.the course of the conversation which followed, Santa Anna design or, 
otherwise, addressed his captor by the title General, Omitting the word President, &c. 
thus, according to Houston's view of the matter;' tacitly, denying his right to
independence and authority, only looked at him, gentlemen," said the Texan 
President in his account of the audiencef-t I looked at him once, corrected
the mistake; if lie, hadn't, you know, gentlemen. I should have closed the scene ;" 
I am Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, President of the, Mexican Republic, and 
General in Chief of the Army of Operations.
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GULF OF MEXICo.
he should have at once signed his death-warrant. The, look must have been an 
expressive one indeed, and yet it may be doubted whether the 
Mexican was aware by how slender a hair the sword that hung over his head was
suspended. Better, far better would it have been for his Country had the President not 
allowed his kindness Of heart to overcome his sense of justice: had he ordered the
execution of Santa Anna, much bloodshed would have been spared, and many evils 
prevented.
The political motives which influenced General Houston on this occasion are not known but the liberation of Santa Anna was not effected without great difficulty, and
much opposition. The, majority of the people demanded his execution, as a just 
atonement for the blood of their fellow.citizens, who, by his merciless and treacherous
mode of warfare, had been so inhumanly sacrificed. After a time, however, a 
convention was agreed upon,and the Mexican general was set at liberty. His intention
was to embark without loss of time for Vera Cruz; this,however, he soon found was 
not an easy matter to ~'Obct, The rage and animosity of the Texans against "'Ilm
had not, in any degree, subsided; and the excitement *as so great and universal, that it was found necessary r his own safety, again to place his person in security.
The Texan President, however, contrived with some diffiIty to liberate him, and he 
then embarked in safety for United States. He arrived at Washington on the 18th
December, and from thence was sent in a ship of war American government, to Vera 
Cruz. No sooner, this unprincipled man again, obtained power  than. forgetful of the 
noble sentiments and generosity which had guided the conduct of the' Texan
President, he again commenced his system of annoyance petty warfare; thus proving that however much we admire the magnanimity of Houston's behaviour, the
policy which guided him was mistaken. His treacherous
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TEXAS AND THE
and vindictive enemy was left free to annoy and man who so' generously
overlooked his cruelty his crimes. . T4e frontiers of the republic have been 
constantly I disturbed 'by this implacable fbe, and its' progress, towards settlement, 
population, and prosperity, matOriall retarded.
The victory of San Jacinto terminated the struggl&Pil independence in Texas. Since 
that event the Mexicans have resorted to every sort of intrigue, and pursaedi
course of policy, which has certainly answered th. object, for which it was adopted
The Mexican policy evidently has beeD,-by keeping the country in a constant 
state of' agitation from threatened invasion," to check the tide of emigration, 
otherwise could have flowed into Texas. Since defeat at Jacinto, however, 
the Mexicans have undertaken another organized campaign against, invasion
of, Texas. It is true that marauding bands attacked the frontier towns, and that constant
are entertained of their making still bolder yet notwithstanding these 
evident hindrances emigration the country is rapidly increasing in population
there i~s little doubt that the Anglo-Saxon race chiefly effected, will ere long overrun
rich provinces of Northern Mexico. Texas has an independent republic by most o
powers, as well as by the United States of America industrious, agricultural 
Population is rapidly pouring 'from Kentucky and the Northern States of the Union
while England, France, and Germany, are conxi their share of emigrants to swell 
the incroasi tide present population of this rising country ma at eighty thousand
freemen, and to these twenty-two thousand slaves  In the province Bexar there are a 
considerable number of Mexicans public is divided into'thirty-six counties.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Red River. Shelby. Sabine. San Augustine. Jasper. Jefferson. Liberty.
Houston. Bowie. Burnet. Fort Bend. Austin. Washington. Milam. Bastrop.
Fayette. Colorado. Matagorda. Nacogdoches. Harrison. - Robertson. Montgomery.
Harris. Galveston. Brazoria. Fannin. Jackson. Victoria. Gonzales. Bexar. Goliad.
Refuglo. San Patricio. Travis. Lamar. Panola.
The, constitution of Texas is modelled, with some little difference after that of the 
United States; Texas being, integral whilst the United States form a federal, republic
legislative power is exercised by a President  Vice-President, elected for 
three years, and a senate and House of Representatives. The members of
former at present consist of fifteen, and the latter of thirty-two members.
common law of England, so far as it is not incon-sistent constitution, and the acts 
of Congress adopted as the general law of the land, ever, be supposed, that the 
colonists of Texas all behindhand in the art of making laws themselves
On the contrary, they enact them facility. Austin, a town of inconsiderable size
on the Colorado river, is the nominal seat of government it is, situated too 
near the Camanche River be considered a safe place for the meeting congress, Camanches bein-(r a hostile tribe,, and very
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TEXAS AND THE
inveterate in their hatred of the whites Washington, a town on the Brazos, is the 
actual seat of government. A ew meeting of the Indian tribes is to 
take place in a f months, at the Waccoo village, some hundreds of miles from 
Washington, ap the country. 'Phis meeting may be producti ve of 
peaceful and conciliatory measures.
CHAPTER XI.
The island of Galveston- Curious mode of building, houses Six. roomed house 
built in a week-Go-ahead career of the Texans.
An isle I fain would sing, an island fair, A Olace too seldom viewed, yet still in view
Most obvious to all, yet most unknown to most.! PHiNEAS FLETCHER,
distance, the city Galveston -in America every village is called a city
one, on a first view, no very high idea of. its importance. The houses in 
general are small, though here and.,there, an overgrown ricketty-looking building 
speaks of the larger means and higher pretensions of its occupant. The' streets are 
disposed with not much regard to regularity; and.the, houses, are built of wood, 
most frequently,of planks -nailed together, clinker-fashion The whole, affair has, I 
must'say, at present rather a fragile appearance, and,it will readily be, conjectured, 
that when v~ewed from. the. water, any grandeur of effect must be
quite out of the, question. The island lof Galveston is about fifteen miles in length,
and seldom 6-kceeds two in breadth. I have before remarked, that on its surface 
it boasts but three trees, and those are not remarkable for size or beauty, soil is
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GULF OF MEXICO.
rich and is covered with the long, thick, and rather rank grass, of tile prairie. The 
island is intersected with se inlets of the, sea, or bayous, as they are called. At al inic
present Galveston is the only town in existence on the island, but it is fast rising 
into size and importance. It at here, where bricks could so easily be strange, th
the inhabitants should still continue satisfied with their wooden tenements. The 
only bricks I saw in Galveston were tbose forming one solitary chimney, It is
calculated that, on an average, these wooden house-, last ten years; and in the mean time they are very liable to be blown down. It must not be supposed, however, that S ,
ulch an occurrence,-whicb, by the way, is by no means rare one-materially injures 
the building capsized, The houses, in fact, and religious edifices at Galveston, are
formed to endure shocks of this description. They 'are all raised a foot or two from the 
ground, by means of sinall, but solid blocks of wood, one of 
which is placed at ,either of the four corners. This is ingenious; 
it raises .4lie house out of the road, 'and in the summer keeps out the snakes, to
say nothing of the pigs. Were brick , edifices to be recommended to the Galveston 
citizens, I i have no doubt that their reply would be, that, in the first place, the wooden
houses occupy infinitely less time in iheir erection. To this I agree, but would it not everitti. answer, in the necessity of rebuilding being less  Another excuse would be, 
that the foundation of the soil being light, the brick buildings, be more likely to weigh it down than the wooden This may,be the case; but cannot good foundations 
be made, and wet and light soil improved, and rendered capable of supporting the 
weight of an ordinary house ? Another 'advantage of a wooden tenement;-
which, however, I am inclined to think is a questionable consists in its faculty
of locomotion. It is no thing, to see a, house of considerable size drawn
means of a movable windlass to considerable 'disCe.
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TEXAS AND THE
English church is at present in rather a dilapidated eovLdition- During a 
recent hurricane, it was, common, with half the town, and the Roman Catholic
Chapel among. the rest, thrown on its bearn-ends, where it 'enained till it was 
raised tip. The city of  Galveston fell, as might a pack of cards built into temporary 
houses by a child at Play! The Catholic priest, poor man, whose 
abode was in the vestry of his little chapel, took refuge, during the hurricane, in 
the Protestant church, which was the last to fill. He was afterwards gravely and 
severely rebaked by the righteous among his congregation, for his want of faith, and 
his taking refuge arnong the heretics it might naturally be suosed, that Galveston
would remain, afier this visitation, a heap of ruins; but no-in an incredibly short 
period of time, both houses and churches were raised from their recurribent position; 
no one was hurt, either in their persons or their pockets, and business went on the same as before. It is true, that the church windows were all broken, and are not yet
repaired; but we were told that the clergyman had gone to Halifax, to obtain funds 
from the Bishop for that purpose.
I was quite surprised at the celerity with which houses are erected here. A very 
good six-roomed house is raised, from floor to ceiling, and rendered fit for habitation 
in a week, I do not mean to say that they are remarkably air4ight, or particularly 
well-arranged; but to build any house, in so short a time is worthy of remark. I have:
heard, to pursue the subject of houses, of a description of building, which I am sure 
would tell well here, where: mud is at a discount.,, It is, as nearly as I can 
recollect, to make, a double wall of planks, each wall being at a distance of
some eight or ten inches from the other. The space between, the two should 
lie'lilled up with mud,well pressed down. After a short time, this becomes as solid as 
brick; and houses built in this way, would, I am sure, be much comfortable. The 
external air Would be
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GULF OF MEXICO.
effectually excluded; the inmates would have ffer, both from cold and beat; and there 
is no ~doubt, that the houses themselves would last for a consideiable longer period 
than they do at present. I cannot t that the process of building would be effected as speedily as it now is: rnuch more time would doubtless expended; and time to these 
people is money. Per , however, when the population is greater, and labour
consequently cheaper, some improvements in these rects may be effected. 
The Texans are an impatient people; they drive to, and at their end, with greater velocity than any individuals I ever saw or heard of Nothing stops them ahead 
career. The present, and how to make the most of it, is their idie fixe, and they
are too Inuch occupied by their daily business, to have leisure to think calmly of 
results.
To 11 go-ahead," is essentially the motto of the Texan People; and let them once 
-get well on their legs, and no people are better calculated to do it faster. I 
am not going to enter into their politics; but I thought from the first,
and I have heard sensible Texans say the same ,jhing, that they ought to 
lean upon sorne. established power-say the United States,-at least for the present.
But to return to Galveston. The city contains about three hundred covered 
buildings, which a bold person or might call houses. There are also four churches;
rather a considerable proportion, I should say to the number inhabitants, which 
amount only to about two thousand. Then, there are temples, squares, theatres,
botanical zoological gardens ; but they are only at present on ground-plan.
Altogether, Galveston is a rising city ; and no doubt rise in time to be of considerable 
importance.
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TFMAS AND THE
CHAPTER XII.
public press-Courtesy of the Texans--Dry stores_lmportant position in society of 
the pig-The turn-out house Chewing and spitting-Climate-Comic scene in 
crossing a bayou-French emigrants-Idiot girl.
it is the mynd that maketh good or ill, That maketh wretch or happie, rich or poore;
For some that bath abundance at his will, Rath not enough, but want's in 
greatest store; And other that bath little, asks no more, And in that little is most rich 
and wise; For wisdom is most riches. SPENCER
any large, and valuable stores in Galveston. Under this denomination 
come all sorts of warehouses and magazines, and , what in England ive
should call shops. There are three newspapers Printed and. circulated at Galveston. 
These have a - considerable sale  entire liberty of the press is, of course, ai.
l4wed,their contents are often amusing enough,
advertisements, likewise, are by no means deficient in entertainment. The most numerous are, I think, thoge of medical men, of whom Galveston 
boasts a large supply. It is quite a treat to a stranger, at least it was so to me, to drive
through this 'very original, city, and remark the different amusements, callinzs, and 
trades., There are plenty of, attorneys offices. Law is decidedly popular, even in this 
new country; and I noticed no small sprink. ling of grog-shops.
Soruc~ of the most frequented stores, are those containing drugs and chemicals; and every ship that comes in is announced as containing" leeches thousands, quinine
by hogsheads, and calomel by lots; to 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
say nothing of demi Johns of castor-oil. Doctoring musf answer here, if any thing does. In this colony there exists a spirit of good.will, and' omtual helpfulness, very 
pleasant to see. I believe this to I be the case in most new 
settlement.-,, before refinement begets selfishness, and the indulgence of luxuries hardens the heart. If a settler happens to require the aid of his
I neighbour's hands, or workin-o tools, in the performance of any manual labour, the 
assistance is rendered as readily as it is asked. This is saying a great deal, for no one seems to hesitate a mornent about considering his neighbour's property as his own; and should the latter not happen to be in the way, his goods are removed, pro
tempore, without scruple. have reason to speak gratefully of the courtesy and
civility of the Texans. During our stay among them, experienced repeated instances 
of good-will; one in par~Jicular, which prepared me for the rest, I will mention
here. The pier near which the yacht was anchored, extended a considerable distance 
into the sea. The landing Wag at all times difficult, more especially so at low water.
To a lady, the clambering ascent, for there were no, steps my arrival, was
almost impracticable. The morning after our arrival I prepared to go on shore in
gig, really dreading the difficulties which, I was told, to encounter. What was my 
surprise and satis to find, when the boat touched the piles of the wharf
that a most convenient flight of steps, and a bahm.~,,Iiade had been erected during 
the night. This had bpen e without any regard to expense, and solely for
modation. The person to whom I was indebted s reall useful service, neither 
expected, nor would',' yceive any remuneration. He was an ale-house keeper
wharf, and a very well educated man, for any' station life
occurrences called trifling b at least serve, in some measure, to illustrate 
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TEXAS AND THE
character 0 the people, and to justify my remarks 'their willingness to befriend, 
and render assistance to olle another.
designation of dry store," is appended to by far the largest number of Ile
houses Galveston. Till I made inquiries, I coul not Imagine what these stores contained. The very name, too, was an anomaly 1 for the said dry 
store stands most f~equently in water, or at least in mud and mire, which
to English feet would be scarcely fordable. Trifles such as these are totally 
disregarded by these hardy settlers, and thei,, wives and families 
seem equally disposed with themselves to make light of difficulties. There is
something very praiseworthy in this undaunted spirit of enterprise, and one feels that 
it both deserves, and will be rewarded ,by eventual success.
Novv I am on the subject of mud and mire, I may as well suggest, that a very 
little trouble and expense would raise both houses and causeways above the
inconvenience of wet; but, as I before remarked, these people prefer enduring evils to 
losing tinic in relnedying them, At present, the numerous pigs are the only living
creatures who benefit by the oozy prairie, which surrounds nearly every house in 
Galveston. The pigs here are as illuch considered, and I believe occupy as
important a position in society, a's those of Ireland. They are not, however, clean 
feeders,--those Galveston swine; nothing seemed to come amiss to
them, and they disputed the carrion food with the disgusting turkey- buzzards. 
Having observed this, I carefully eschewed pork during my stay. The pigs
themselves are frightful; their long tails are destitute of curl, even when 
suffered to retain their original number of joints. This, however, is seldom the case'.
The dogs, both wild and tame, are inveterate pig.hunters, being often hungry 
withal, the latter 'frequently suffer~ and it was a'rare sight to meet one of
these unclean' beasts with either ears or, tail.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Thus, all creatures here make up their mindsto bear illswhich flesh is heir to. It is a 
truth, which ev-ery Moment is forced upon one, that those difficulties and dis.'
cforts, which would appear most formidable to us, are unfelt and unnoticed by them; 
and that, where an Englishman would sink, past redemption, in the mire'of
4espondency, they, to their praise and credit be it spoken, contrive to struggle
There is one large and flourishing hotel at Galveston, besides several smaller ones. In the fornier, the Tremont House, as it is called, assemble the fashionable portions
of the society.' The table d'h6te dinner-hour is two;' aid, after the quarter of an hour, 
which is the time an American generally alloiv,,; himself to devote to this meal, has
elapsed, they are to be seen reading the newspaper the wide verandah of the hotel, in 
every variety of bodily contortion. I believe it is not in the nature of an American
to sit still, or to sit straight. They are perpetually either rocking or 
balancing themselves in their chairs, or, with legs hanging over the railing of the
verandah, performing that frightful act of uncleanliness, on which Mr. Dickens h" heaped such deserved reprobation. I wonder what the American ladies are about,
that they do not put a stop to this latter proceeding, which, and I do not exaggerate, 
is mentioned with disgust in all civilized societies, whenever the manners and,
of our transatlantic brethren chance to come under discussion. I have reason to 
believe that the fair ladies of the land" are as delicate and refined in their habits,
its1hey are well educated and beautiful; that they have un'bounded influence over, and 
are treated with marked respect and consideration by the hardy sons of the soil",
i,eidniits not of a doubt;-tben why do they not, one and ,411, rise up and say to their 
husbands, their brothers, and their lovers, "Cast away that lump of tobacco, which dis
Ogures you ; r appearance, and renders your voice and Manner of speaking ridiculous; I will have no chewing.
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TEXAS, AND THE
will, have no.spitting. If you must smoke, do it in propriety, but lot our floors, out,
hearths, be. secure lrom pollution." American ladies! do, not only as now be proud of 
your; countrymen as M114, but.vain of them as gentlemen.
being personal, and return to more general subjects. From all I could learn, and judging fro the opinion of a skilful medical man, who liad been in 
a Iongtime -in the country, I should say, that the climate of Galveston Island is by no 
means unhealthy. Of course, in these latitudes, the heat, during two or three months
the year July, August, and September are th most trying months; then the musquito
rages; and, men doubtless long for trees, and cooling" streams,and shelter from the 
sun. Of the climate, during: the remaining nine months of the year, I heard no coni.,'
plaint, even Among our dissatisfied countrymen. Thi; scenery, if such it can be 
called, is totally without variety. a long monotonous prairie, with occasional tussocks of', high grass, little,plots of reeds, and frequent bogs, cover, the whole extent of the island. The soil is rich, and well adapted to grazing purposes. There are 
deer, which are sold in the market at about two dollars each. Fowls and turkeys, alias 
gobblers, are brought, froin,the main-land, distant about four miles; the usual':
price of the former is tenpence; and of the latter,dollar
The, only & drive" is on the sea-beach, and a niost beautiful, beach it ir-so hard 
and smooth, with its fin sand,that you Scarcely hear your horse's foot fall, as he-
trots, or rather runs along-a light carriage behind him, and the broad prairie 
spreading,far before. you are-I'Kas going to say-stopped, but I should h been wrong: no one is stopped in this country thing short of a bowie-knife, or a rifle-
ball; b progress is delayed by an, interesting bayou, wade, swim case may 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
time nor spare cash to erect bridges; and,  were the expense to be incurred, the probability is Id be washed away by the first rain, or by a more high tide. Bridges then being out of the question thing is left you but to make the best of such
transport as are within your reach. If you hance to meet with any person who has 
lately ask, i Well, Sir, is it swimming ?" Should e in the affirmative, and you happen to 
be on horseback equipped for a journey, with your plunder (luggage) about you, you up saddle-bags o, the stream. Should your route lie along the shore 
safest way is to go a good way out to sea--on you find yourself well out among the 
breakers, that at first this struck me as rather an alarming proceeding; but, 
in fact, it is much the safest plan always a bar of sand formed across the mouth
bayous, and if you can hit that, the depth of water lessened.
crossing of one of these bayous, we once witnessed comical scene. We were 
returning from excursion ina, light' carriage, and were accompanied 
English gentleman on horseback. We bad crossed our last bayou 
in safety, when we found traveller in the contrary direction on foot, waiting
patiently ift over the water. He was a Frenchman, and his re was rather an anomaly 
in these wild regions; he was accoutred in the costume of la jeune France
long chevelure, pantalons d sous pied; coat, guiltless of collar and painted boots: 
sure , such a man was never to tread the pathless prairies, and ~ how he got
and who he was, I could not guess, and never have But there he stood, bowing and 
shrugging, a most cat-like horror of wetting his feet. lie was most anxiously looking out for an opportunity the' awful-looking breakers dry-shod. No our
companion perceive his situation, than he
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kindly offexqd, to recross the water, provided the French. man, , Would behind him.
This, however, vvas it being no easy matter for a gentleman too well skilled in 
equestrian exercises a location on the back of a fiery steed unused to carry any extra 
burden. The cavalier attempted to -spring up, pantalon etroit ; but it was all
vain ; after each successive effort lie found himself stretched on terrafirma. After 
many fruitless attempts, he changed his ground, and eventually succeeded infixing
himself in front, with his arms cling-ing closely around our friend's throat.  vain, 
however, the unfortunate rider suffering for 'his philanthropy, implored to be re
leased. 11 Mais Monsieur," vociferated the Frenchman, in the true spirit of Sindbad's 
Old Man of the Sea,"  Je suis tres bien comme ca ,If you are, I'm not,
was the reply; and in a moment, the arms were transferred 'to the neck of the horse 
: and thus, with legs dangling, and himself hanging on as if for the bare life,
poor foreigner was safely conveyed across the breakers,
We, laughed heartily, and would, I fear, willingly have increased our merriment, by 
seeing the foreigner struggling in the shallow water. Poor man! his troubles
not yet atanend, A small bundle which lie had held in his hand had fallen from 
his grasp, and during his equestrian exploits had drifted well out to sea! What
this, precious, bundle contained we had yet to learn. No sqqnq wa sJts owner in safety, than hat in hand, and hair, streaming in the breeze, he made his compliments
to his deliverer. 14 Mille remerciens."-11 Ce nest rien, une complais I arice de prairie, 
dans ce pays sauvage il faut s'aider l'un, et I'autre." lest vrai,'et voyez vouls, Monsieur	ais fort embarrass6, c'est que je portais le bonnet de Madame ma femme." Here he 
discovered his loss, which in the, agitation of the moment bad passed unno.
ticed. I'Mais mon dieu! oA est. il done le bonnet de ma femme?", Englishman pointed 
silently tothe sea, and
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TEXAS AND THE GULF oF MEXico.
left our friend on the beach, shrugging his shoulders impotent despair.
_Now that I am on the subject of emigrant Frenchmen, on the extreme fitness of 
these people inconveniences of a new country, Texas. They are more light of 
heart, and less easily depressed than the English settler; added to which, their
""Wants are Bewer, and more easily supplied. If a Frenchman distant and scarcely 
inhabited prairie, finds in want of a dinner, he takes his rifle, cries, and is as 
proud and happy if he returns with lark, to regale himself after his toil,
as an Englishh man would be had he brought home a fat buck.
one evening, as I stood on the wharf, waiting for the gig to come off from the 
Dolphin, I witnessed the disembarkation of one hundred and fifteen emigrants,
shipped the authorities from France. They were a motley ,~group; most of them well 
clothed, and one and all look. :'Inj cheerful and happy, Among them, I remarked,a poor old man, erect and strong. He was dressed like a farmer but from his carriage, I thought must have been soldier in his youth. He had on a blouse, 
with a fur casquette head wife carried his gun, and he surrounded by his 
children. told me he had left farm near Verdun, to settle in Texas. In Ui- s own
country lie was a poor man: here, his children (lie had eleven at any rate would not 
starve. , Madame," said,,1nous,nP sommes pas des paresseux, nous 
pour travailler. There was a promise of success in old man's energetic 
tone, as he uttered these words, was, he said, very pleasant to be greeted by kindly words a foreign land, on his first landing. He was one of old
soldiers. , Je ne suis pas aristocrate, (What egotism there is in a Frenchman.) Moi
the tears stood in the old man's eyes, as lie offered nie a Tuch of snuff 'It was all he 
had to give; and I received the offering iii the spirit in which it was made. His old
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TEXAS AND TIM
tabatiere was modelled after the petit Caporals cocked hat of tin, Polished and 
shining fron, long, Among the group stood an idiot girl. I Was struck by
her appearance: though her deficiency in intellect was evident frorn a certain 
wandering gaze in hei dark eyes, Which 'tell'as impossible'to mistake, Yet he
betra3 d but little of that vacuity which gelierally indicative of her class. Such Pitiable
objects decided idiots have frequently something revolting their I manner and 
appearance; with this poor emigrant, however, there was nothing of this, and I
looked at he, with unmixed feelings of inter". t and, compassion, 
was not exactly pretty; but her features were interesting, and of all the 
party her person appeared the cleanest~ al'id her attire the least untidy and
neglected I was sufficiently interested to inquire her history, and leartit that she 
was the daughter of poor parents in the neighbourhood of Verdun. An object of
compassion her birth, she had nevertheless not been quite a uselejs
burden upon her parents. Her docility was remarkable and she learnt to be useful in 
various little matters, Annette-for that was her name-was very deaf, and She
had an impediment in her speech, which rendered hel' utterance extremely painful; 
still -1 through the gloomy vaults of flic dull idiot's brain" meandered ideas pecujiar.
Ao lityself, and when the difference between right and. wrong was put before her, the 
natural goodness, of her' disposition led her to refuse the evil and choose the good
It happened that the child of a small farmer Annette's village-he was the very 
old Buonapartist whom I found her on the wharf-strayed summer's day,
and was not missed for several hours a little boy of some three years old. Annette was when the, loss of the little plaything of the house was covered: she
witnessed the agony of the mother, and manly grief of the old farmer. That
night Annette's little bed was unoccupied.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
one day, and another passed away. The country was scoured in all directions, in 
search of the missing ones, third evening, when the Mother alnost given up hope 
in the sickness of despair, Annette genty entered with the young boy in her arms; she
stepped, and the mother saw and heard c felt her child's warin kisses on her 
cheek!, showered upon both,--where had they could not tell-the girl's poor 
head was wandering, and her companion was but an infant told of a hollow 
tree, and of Annette's cloak being wrapt about him; she had fed him too bread
which she had brought-and this was all they ter this poor Annette became 
an orphan, and the father, grateful to the feeble-minded girl who had
saved the child of his old age, brought her with his family, to this new country, and she was unto him as a daughter. When I saw Annette the hand of the rosy-faced boy-
was iA hers; she was evidently a favourite, and a playfellow. no fear, but that the poor girl will do well in the wilderness; there is here such an universal feeling of
kindness towards childhood and helplessness. She looked happy and 
careless like the rest; and I am certain she never want a friend, as long as 
Texan hearts remain, they are now, in the right place.  little did any of these poor 
people conceive of the difficulties not this Bexar?" "they asked immediately on their 
landing; and when they told'that they had some hundreds of miles of
difficult country to travel over before they could arrive at promised land: though they 
looked disappointed for a moment the spirit of hope was soon awake 
again, pilgrims of old they went on their way rejoicing
hopeful, and even joyous expression remembered on the countenances of these
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TEXAS AND THE
emigrants, the, I sight altogether left a sad and painful impression, on my, mind. I can fancy I see them now, those pale cold faces, and shivering forms interspersed
ainong bales of cotton on ~tho unsheltered wharf: a, bitterly cold
and,fierce norther is blowing upon them, and their scanty garments are but, ill prepared to screen them from its Violence. Heaven only knows whether 
they will ever realize the fortunes they have come so far to seek, but as I bade
the I Tw adieu, I wished them success from the bottom of iny heart.
After this interesting sight, we went on board the Dolphin, with two of our corps 
diplomatique, Captain Elliott and Monsieur de Cramayel. As usual, the affairs of the'
republic, especially as regarded the important subject of emigrants,were discussed. We all agreed that it was incumbent on all governments sending out parties to this
new, and little known country, to obtain every information which could be useful to, 
the settlers, previous to their departure. in case of failure, also, or of sickness,
there should be means of relief at hand, and large families should notbe permitted 
to leave their homes, with even t,he'possibility of starvation before them. From
Captain Elliott I alwavs Lrained much valuable information in regard to this young and 
interesting country.
Our acquaintances in this little settlement were necessarily few, and, we were really 
obliged. to those among them who were willing to share the monotony of our
sealife. I beg to offer many thanks to the corps diplomatique of Texas for the 
agreeable variety'of their society.
regret oxtremely,-that owing to our living on board the Dolphin, I did not extend my 
acquaintance among the, pleasant society which I am aware the city of
Galveston affords, Ihope, at some future visit, to be able to amends
for the loss which was caused by those unavoidable impediments to visiting-viz. 
stormy foaming seas. We were,not in a situation to be hospiti at the time of our anchorage in Galveston Bay.
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GULF OF MEXICo.
CHAPTER XIII.
sporting in Texas-Provisions-Bogs-Deer shooting-The mustang or wild horse-Fish-Galveston fort-Improvidence and idleness of the Texans-Return to New Orleans.
'To snare the fish we fix the luring bait; To wound the fowl we load the gun with fate.
PARNELL.
Earth fills her lap with pleasures of her own. WORDSWORTH,
not much variety of amusement at Galveston. Game, however, was plentiful in the
neighbourhood - and of this we took advantage, and never missed day without going 
out to try our skill. Horses were t b hi in plenty, and not very bad: there is a Captain Cary, in Galveston, who keeps, what is tirteously termed, a livery stable. He is a free negro, with groat' labour and perseverance saved up money
amount of a thousand dollars, and purchased his freedom horses are to be had from him at half a dollar day, with a sort of carriage included. In this little party daily packed up their guns, and s their, fishing-tackle, and sallied forth in quest
''adventures. Their sport was very varied. When wind was northerly, there were flocks 
of sea-birds, in almost incredible, ducks of every description, delicious' canvass-back, the mandarin, the pintail, and common wild duck, all good; but the most numerous
were scarcely eatable, being hard and fishy. The geese were the most difficult to shoot, being very shy; Oom the want of cover in the prairie, they generally us in
sufficient time to get out of our way. Mr.
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TEXA9 AND THE
Houstoun, however, contrived sometimes to bring one down, and that at, distancet of 
one hundred and fifty yards; but they are not worth eating, for o keeping,', makes
them tender, and they taste much more of fish "F th fowl. No one must be surprised at our attempts to eat nearly every thing we shot. Our dinners, with the
exception of game, consisted always 'of beef; mutton was not to be had-a sheep being quite a sight at Galveston. Pigs, to be sure, there were ; bat they fed
uncleanly, upon snakes and dead dogs, that recourse them was not to be thought of 
Turkeys and fowls were scarce had had enough of them on the voyage
The venison is good, but destitute of fat; the price of deer is about two dollars, Soon 
after our arrival, Mr. Houstoun went to the main-land, and came back with
magnificent deer, which he had brought, down with small shot. It caused great 
jealousy among the Galvestonists, , I say, Captain, so you've been using 
deer, I see," said one of these gentlemen to -him, when he:'
returned triumphant with the spoil. I remember, on the same day, that I took a drive on 
the sea-beach; the day was fine, and I saw many beautiful, and some curious
birds. There was the pelican standing drowsily in shallow water, and as we 
approached, wheeling away with his heavy lagging flight. There were beautiful
herons of various kinds, and a flight of spoonbills, of a brilliant rose-colour, like the 
flamingo. More inland , the, bright plumaged cardinal darted past us, while the low
larks skimmed above us, in vast numbers. It was pleasant day, and I well remember it. Mr. Houstoun was:, so pleased by 1is success with the deer, that the day
following we tried our fortune again.  were not very systematic in our arrangements, 
and were easily beguiled out of our path by any game that chanced to come our
way, Bogs are frequent, and not a little dangerous, as are scarcely any visible signs 
of them, and i you,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
unlucky enough to get well , into one, the chances are your soon getting out 
again. In the neighbourhood these bogs snipes are very plentiful, and 
Houstoun had left me in charge of the carriage, and fast filling his pockets with 
those birds, when deer bound out of the rushes, not ten yards 
Unluckily, he neither saw nor heard him, mortification to see the animal get away
shot being fired at him. Soon after, we saw our glass two deer feeding 
together at a ce. They were extremely shy, and our only plan
was to surround them, making the circle smaller by degees. I took up my position 
at one angle; Captain E who accompanied us, at another; and Mr. Houstoun,
his rifle, at the third. The deer stood a moment gaze, evidently doubting at which point to make his escape strongest full career, lie received his death wound from Mr.
Houstoun's rifle. I must confess, that A xious as I always was that the shot should not miss, I always felt a reaction of regret, when I saw the prey stretched lifeless 
before me. . On this occasion, though they assured me the deer was to all intents and
purposes dead, yet I could not see his quivering limbs, ind leathern coat, stretched 
almost to bursting by con  without reproaching myself for ha'ing party to his assassination. I felt still'more remorse, whenwe discovered that his 
companion, the friend perhaps of years, would not ~leave the spot where he had f
allen, but kept hovering about, just out of gun-shot, long after the, remains of his 
companion had been removed. I must here tell an American anecdote of deer-shooting. One of our acquaintances, as a proof of the great tenacity
eof life in these animals, informed me, that he had once shot a deer, had cut its throat, 
and half skinned it, wh n, rather to his surprise, the animal suddenly rose,
looked about him, and finally trotted off. , He required
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TEXAS AND THE
ball heart finish him-and that's a fact madam
Wild, swans ate very numerous, but too shy for sport; price of a swan's skin is a 
dollar. The best bird I tasted ~ in Texas. was the prairie hen ; it is a delicious
of pheasant, grouse, and partridge., People that have-been in India 
say that it resembles tile jungle fowl of that Country It is as large pheasant, vith~
spurs or tufts of feathers on its heels. We killed quantities of snipes, and 
plovers--sometiines- twenty at ashot The inhabitants do not waste their ammunition up. such small game,, except the boys, who from the age of five years are intrusted 
with a rifle; and dangerous enough are thesen inexperienced 
sportsmen to harmless passersby. The perseverance of these people when a deer, is in question, is remarkable; they will creep in a horizontal position in the long 
grass, for hours together; some, times, perhaps, not advancing more than a yard 
in a, minute. Our livery-stable keeper, Captain Cary earned a great portion,of his 
freedom-money in this way. A drunken rascal he was, with a head covered with 
black wool and, shaped like a sugar-loaf He let out a great many horses to, our 
sailors at different times ; and whell we first arrived, they seemed to prefer a ride to 
the grog shop; though there was every variety, of apple-toddy egg-nogg, gin-sling, hot 
tom-and-jerry, and juleps of every kind advertised at the numerous bar-rooms, in
most temptiur array. It as quite amusing to see them mounted on high-stepping 
horses, riding as only sailors do, as har&,as they could go, without arly definite 
object -their hats at the back of their heads, their loose trousers above their knees, 
and full, three feet of daylight between themselves and their saddles. At the risk of 
their own lives and the horses, they would come galloping down the slight wooden 
pier, shouting and hal the admiration of their cornrades on, board. ~
equestrian exercises, however, did not list
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GULF OF MEXICO.
charms of- Social Hall," Ten Pin Alley," and the Travellers' Friend," soon 
seduced them, and morethan their Ieave was broken, and they returned intoxicated
to vessel
mustang, or wild horse, I was not fortunate enough number, They are small, 
strong, and wiry I before' remarked, difficult to tame, and vicious. I saw
one just lassoed, with the Mexican, d caught him, on his back; was using suppose 
necessary severity. I do not know the wildest, the horse or his rider. On the
that I saw this animal, we had rather a disagreeable namely, being nearly swamped 
in a bog in the prairie. Our horse floundered in, but luckily the bind wheels 
the carriage were on terra firma~ By this we were able, after a good hour's 
labour, to rescue animal from his disagreeable situation. I really quite melancholy to 
see the innumerable animals, which are scattered over the 
face of ,,tbe country. During our drives and rides, we were con stumbling over these 
dismal-looking remains, in the sun. The bones are principally those of
horned cattle, which have sunk too deeply in the bogs to extricate 
themselves'. No greater proof than tint can be required to prove the immense quantity 
of cattle that exist in this country. Often I have perceived head and shoulders or an 
unfortunate animal Just appearing above the surface of the bog. Life 
being still in, the creature, we have thought it advisable to send a 
merciful bullet through its devoted head. Mr. Houstoun, On, one occasion, was on the 
point of putting a period to sufferings of a poor beast, thus doomed to a 
living grave however, deterred by the recollection of a piece of advice lie had 
previously received. The Texans particularly sensitive about the interference of 
strangers in any of their affairs'; and it is more than probable, the
shooting of a cow. however well intentioned the
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TEXAS AND THE
act would give rise to disagreeable language measures retaliation.
many kinds of excellent fish at Galveston best of these is decidedly 
the red fish. It very Much resembles the cod iw flavour, and grows to the length of
fifteen feet We found it excellent when salted. 
likewise immense quantities of gray rnullet though certainly an inferior fish, are 
nevertheless very welcome when no other, nor better sorts are to.be
procured. At low,water, they were taken from the Pier by, means of a' casting-net. 
Oysters are much in dernand, oyster soup being a favourite delicacy among the 
Americans. They are . large, and coarse,, and by no highly flavoured. We often 
took gray mullet ourselves with a casting net; and occasionally, in the bayous,
Mr H, hooked a red fish, which was a pleasant variety in our sports, The 
bait for them was a piece of crab, or oyster. I was disappointed at finding so 
small a variety of,shells along the coast. For the first few days
after ray arrival, I wearied my eyes with looking for treasures of this 
description. I soon, however, discovered that I must give, up the search in 
despair. I never found, notwithstanding this deficiency, that the drives along the 
sea. beach were either dull or monotonous. There were always ducks to circumvent 
or surprise, and pelicans to watch, as theyStood unconcernedly in the water; 
and generally, travellers to enter into conversation with, I regretted that the time was 
drawing near when we were to leave the island. We are, however, looking,
forward to returning when the weather is finer, and the prairie not, so wet
The sea-fogs were just now very disagreeable, and, it, must have been extremely 
unsafe for ships to venture near the land. On the-9th of January a large vessel
was This~ was an event of importance, and it was quite delightful to perceive,,the 
masts, and sails of what we plainly perceived was an English man-of-war.
breaking the line -'
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MEXICO.
horizon By degrees, and as the vessel approached nearer 'the land, she was 
pronounced to be the Electra, English corvette. Her arrival on the Texan 
coast had unexpected, and the pilot went out to her immediately schooner. The sea-mist, which had partially I came on again so thickly, shortly after his at he found it
impossible to find th~ ship. In Electra stood off to sea again. weather continued 
for about a fortnight; it sort o had occasional glimpses of sun, but they 
shone a curtain of misty haze, as to be as unlike king of day as possible.
is very curious, the suddenness with which these mists away. During this time there 
was no rain, And, our sporting amusements went on as usual. The day
that on which we intended bidding adieu, for the present, to the young Republic, we 
had some rifle practice, with the seven barrel. A deserted house was the
object, and the owner's old boots the particular aim. Mr. Houstoun gained credit 
from the lookers-on for the correctness his aim at this singular and 
original target. Not far from the scene of this exploit is the fort of Galveston! Not willingly would I speak in disparaging of the warlike defences of the city; but I advise the good citizens to trust too much, implicitly to them. Their safety in case of an
attack sea, lies in the difficulty of access to their coast. the mouth of the harbour, and 
the shallowness of the water, form a natural barrier to invasion, by of that
element. For the sarne cause, a. navy is a useless possession to themselves. I 
believe the President, always strongly objected to having the Republic by
the purchasing, fitting up, and maintaining of ships of war. In the present 
financial the country, a navy is a worse than useless incumbrance
extreme apathy and indolence of these people,
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AsAND TITIC,
when, there is no present and personal good to arise, fron, their exerting themselves, 
is really wonderful; love of country ,though I believe it-to be strong within thein, i
as ,nothing compared with self-interest and aggrandizement I believe the same observations would apply to individuals thrdughout'the world, but could not
help being struck with its peculiar applicability to thes, Republicans. As a proof of this, 
I may mention that there were lying in the harbour of Galveston, a brig and a,
steamer both vessels of war; they were both aground and. were literally falling to 
pieces for want of repair prey to marine insectsand vermin of all kinds. A little
money,, and a very slight degree of exertion, expended in time, would have saved two 
valuable vessels to the Republic, and also their harbour from exhibiting a most
unsightly monument of their improvidence and idleness. The revenue of the country is not at present sufficient to play ducks and drakes with; what, 
it may be hereaft;er time will show, as well as the disposition of the people a,
to its expenditure. In the mean time, the' money arising from the sale of these vessels 
would have been something, Not long ago a large steamer went on shore
on the island about ten miles from Galveston city. She belonged,
Galveston merchant, and contained a large cargo of cotton. very soon-broke up, as a 
heavy norther was blowing at the time, and very little of, her besides her engine was
saxed. A good many,, bales of cotton were floated on shore, and we used to meet 
portions of the iron-work being hauled (Anglice carted) beach to Galveston. Altogether the loss must have been a heavy one to the proprietor. Cotton, 
harmless as it looks, sometimev turns out a,most dangerous cargo.  If at the time it
packed, it~ happens to containthe least degree of moisture, it is apt to ignite, in the same manner as.hay when pressed into a heap in: similar state.
Our kind friend,- Monsieur de Cramayel, the Charge d'Affaires for France, beautiful
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GULF OF MEXICO.
live hawk of a species quite -new to me, which he had shot it was only seriously" not , 
dangerously wounded The sailors, who certainly are the most 
tender-hearted people in the world, as far as dumb animals nursed it through its 
illness, and soon quite tame and sociable. We had by this time 
quite a menagerie on board. My favourite dog related before, died of a coup 
de soleil at Jamaica may the graceful boughs of the cocoa-nut tree
tomb! We had still, however, old Rake the setter I regret to say, far gone in 
decrepitude, and childishness; like many other better dogs than his day; yet still 
sans eyes-sans teeth sans every thing"-the old dog always finds a
warm berth a kind word, and the best of dogs' food that asking. Besides this worthy 
animal we mocking-birds, an eagle and a goat. The latter found a most useful animal, 
though not equal in beauty her predecessor; she was bought at New Orleans 
with kid The latter soon found its way into a pie; those with harder 
hearts than I could boast of, eating with great satisfaction. I heard the poor goat 
wandering about the decks over our heads in search of child and uttering dismal 
bleatings, while progeny under discussion. Had I had the heart to partake of am
sure I never again could iav look d poo Nan in face with any degree of assurance.
We had serious thoughts of continuing our course southward, to visit Vera 
Cruz, and thence to proceed to Mexico. Several circumstances however 
deterred us from following this plam. I tie first pla e we were by no that,
coming from the port of a hostile country, we should be well received by the Mexicans.
nother reason was, the want of a tolerable road between Vera Cruz capital. Three 
hundred miles over rocks and stones amongst brigands, and thieves, was to turn
back the boldest of us. To New Orleans,
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TEXAS AND THE
therefore, it was decided that we should again betake ourselves.
Electra after a fortnight's absence. or rather after standing on and off the shore, had at
length succeeded in 'coming to an anchor outside the bar. She has "despatches f6r 
Captain Elliott, and we are to take h irn Out in the yacht. 
January 26 {1844/01/26} -We took our pilot on board, assured us that there was 
sufficient depth of water 0], the bar fo I r us to go out of the harbour.
was really quite sorr to say adieu to this island where we had lingered so long. We 
had on board our friends of the corps diplomatique, who were bound a
the Yankees say, to- pay a visit to Captain Darley, on board the Electra, We passed the 
formidable obstacle of th bar without any difficulty, and soon after, put both pilot and
passengers into the boat of the former, with many, farewells and good wishes, We 
passed close to the bows of the Electra, and remarkably well she looked to us, ae.
accustomed to Yankee and Texan craft. The wind favourable,. and we steered a 
direct course to the South West pass of the Mississippi. if we escape the dangers of 
plague, pestilence, famine and shipwreck, and live to return to Texas, I shall, I
no do",tbave something more to say about, the young Republic. It's a fine country 
and that's a fact."
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GULF OF MEXICO.
CHAPTER XIV.
Lighthouse at the entrance of the Mississippi-Winter scenery of its banks-Extreme cold-Visit to the shore-Venomous Snake-Ran on board by a steamer-Arrival 
at New Orleans Amusement of the inhabitants.
Old Ocean was, Infinity of ages ere we breathed Existence-and he will be
beautiful When all the living world that sees him now Shull roll unconseious 
dust around the sun. CAMPBELL.
Unheeded falls along the flood Thy desolate and aged tree Idem
JANUARY 29th. {1844/01/29} The land was sighted ahead, and in the 
afternoon we received the Pilot onboard. The weather was fine and quiet, with occasional light airs. The pilot told us that the yacht would have to cut her way 
through several feet of mud, and every stitch of canvass was crowded on the vessel to enable her to dash bravely through, when she should arrive at the
shallow part of the water. We were not long kept in anxiety, for 
though we perceived no change in her usual smooth and even
course through the water, the schooner was slipping gently and
safbly through the soft mud. At one moment, however, (and that
at the shallowest spot) she scarcely seemed to move, and we
began to fancy she was fixed, and might remain-as the Yankees
say, 11 frorn January ,to eternity." A few seconds put us out of
our suspense, for a puff of wind suddenly arose, and carried us
in safety ,into deep water. have forgotten to mention a lighthouse, which we
left behind us at the southwest pass; and I must revert to it here, as there is rather a 
singular story attached to 
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TEXAS_AND THE
it. The situation is I think a precarious one, at least appearance of being so, the 
lighthouse hair! been erected on a sedgy bank formed by an accumulation
of mud and snags. These insecure oozy-looking lands extend 
in all directions about the various entrances to the Mississippi, and give it the 
appearance-I ha remarked upon-of unhealthy desolation. lighthouse in question was built by the government the United States, at a considerable 
expense, as th were aware of the great necessity of such a 
beacon thel-mouth of the river Soon after the work was completed, an unexpected claim was set up to, the land oi rather mud on which the lighthouse had
been built. parties, who thus inopportunely appeared, founded 
claim on, a title, which was derived Spanish grant. This title they produced, but at 
time they offered to forego their claim for sum of, I think, thirty thousand 
dollars. cause tried,and to the. great annoyance of the government 
Wag decided in, favour of the new claimants former, rather than remove their 
lighthouse, comply withihis exorbitant demand. affair fine specimen of Yankee 
cunning, and shrewd lying in, wait for the unwary.
Proudly by the woodland,deeps Our little gallant schooner sweeps.
The song of birds is heard above Tuning their swelling throats to love;
And, with a joyous welcome hailing The bark, with such a white wing sailing.
On poising wings the sea-birds float And join them with their warning note.
But heedless, on the vessel glides, Stemming, the fury of the tides,
And', like a, spirifdf the seas, Riding on the 'wintry, breeze, Full many a tall ship, creeping on, She passes, ere her race is won.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
two months that had elapsed since we last visited Mississippi, had 
worked a great change in the appearance of the woods. The trees, were before
"Clad in all the beauty of their autumnal verdure, were now bleak, gray, and 
leafless. It is true that, here and tberc,an ilex, or some other evergreen, relieved with 
rich hues this dismal appearance,but they were but rare, I continually regretted the 
change that had taken and hanging moss, that like the gray and
venerable beards of some aged patriarch, was pendant from the trees, showed more 
conspicuously than ever, the want of leaves, of Which it now usurps the
Place. One could not, as before, be cheated by the beauty of the decaying 
vegetation, into a forgetfulness of the deadly insalubrity of the climate and country
the morasses were now displayed in all their horrors, one almost shuddered to 
pass such cradles of pestilence and disease.
The river was rnuch~~higher than it,was during our former visit; the breaking 
up of the frost, and the consequent melting of the snow in the northern
countryhad caused it to rise many feet.
The tide was running three or four knots an hour, and it would have required a very 
strong wind in our favour, to enable us to make head against it. Unluckily
a breath of air was blowing, and on this, our second day in the river,-after 'many 
attempts to progress, which ended in our making stern-way only,'we lot
go the anchor, and determined to go on shore.
The weather was intensely cold, and the water used I for washing the decks 
immediately froze after being dashed over them. A bright sun was shining all the
morning, and yet the water remained unthawed throughout the day.
Ye really could not keep ourselves warm in the yacht, state of the decks 
entirely prevented us from, our usual exercise of pacing up and down the
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TEXAS AND THE
vessel, and we did not,at all relish being confined in the. cabin, while such a brilliant sun was shilling over head.,An expedition on shore was, therefore, agreed upon, a
the gig was manned. We landed with some little difficulty, as the banks are at that 
spot abrupt and rather: steep, at least I thought them so, when I found myself
obliged to attempt the ascent.
I soon perceived, that I had gained nothing in warmth by the change from tile yacht. 
Walking I found impossible, the ground was so rough, and sitting still was
freezing work. A happy idea at length struck us, viz, that'of making a fire on the 
ground under the trees., 'We set to work to collect sticks and dried leaves, and, soon
made a'satisfactory heap. This done, we endeavoured to produce a light, by rubbing 
together two pieces of dried wood-Indian fashion. Do what we would, an& strive as
we might, we could not succeed, and yet we naturally felt, that half the romance of 
the situation would be destroyed, by obtaining a light in any more artificial
manner. At length, however, we gave up the attempt in despair, and 'were thankful for
lucifer match which the doctor happily had in his pocket. The fire burnt bravely,
rushing,along the ground over the dead leaves, and warming the whole air to a 
distance of at, least a hundred,yards. I was constantly obliged to change my
position,,as the fierce flames approached, and, seemed ready to lick my:feet; but 
the warmth was quite, delightful, and I would at any time prefer such a wood.
fire to Newcastle coal in the best and most 'polished of, fire-places. Following my 
example, the crew of the gig who had been wandering listlessly' about the woods,
made themselves a fire also, and sat round it to warm themselves.
While I was thus employed, Mr. Houstoun amused himself with shooting. There 
was plenty of rabbits and they were: easily, shot; they were however not eating,
when cooked. I do not know in what respect
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GULF OF MEXICO.
they differed from English rabbits, but they neither nor tasted the sarne. Numbers 
of beautiful birds sporting about; their bright plumage being seen to ( great 
advantage on the leafless boughs. I it grievous to shoot them, and when they brought
fte cardinals blue-birds, and bright-coloured woodpeckers, how much rather I 
would have seen thei glancing bright light, and sunning themselves in the
"warmth of heaven. They were now stretched lifeless and stiff upon the earth, these 
poor woodland forest minstrels! never more to sing their 
joyous songs, or flit about the dancing leaves!
But how still and sombre that primeval forest seemed! Not a sound broke, upon the 
ear, except when the report of the, gun reverberated through the woods, and startled the slumbering echoes from their long repose. Yet wanted not the eye far 
scope to inuse, Nor vistas opened by the wandering stream.
Here and there were blackened stumps, showing that the 
devastating hand of man had been busy there, and had lain
low the stately trees which had grown in that vast forest for
centuries. Around the prostrate forms of the dead giants
clung the sad passion-flower, and the a twining creeper, as though 
loath to part with the faithful pillar that had been their support in life.
Thewhole surface of tbe ground was so thickly covered
with dried ~,Ieaves, that it was difficult to make any discovery of the 
'descriptions of plants or herbs, which vegetate under the trees, The 
monotonous brown of the earth's covering however, varied by frequent; tufts
of the fan-plant; '-as it is here called. This graceful plant shoots up its ,,broad 
fan-like leaves, of the most vivid green, and its ,,,peculiar shape and 
huc are calculated to give an appearance of tropical vegetation to the scenery.
We had been informed that wild, boar and deer, were be found in the forests in 
considerable however we were not fortimate enough to see anything of
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TEXAS AND THE
them and I confess myself rather incredulous as to the
fact of their existence in these woods.
My fire had, after the lapse of a couple of hours, burnt low, and we made preparations 
for going on board. ou return to the gig, we perceived the men very busily
engaged; so much so, that we came upon them unseen
They had found a small snake, which the warmth of their fire had probably aroused from its torpid state, and they"were endeavouring to make sure of' their Prisoner.
To effect this, they were trYin(y to tie a piece of rope-yarn-round the creature's body. 
The snake having, as one of the sailors expressed it, hove off his tail," in the
course of his capture, this, circumstance considerably increased the difficulty of the 
attempt. Having with great care adjusted the yarn to his 
satisfaction, the man whose prize it was, deposited the. reptile in the crown of his hat.
Happily for the poor man, we returned in time to prevent the consequences of his 
imprudence. The snake was one',of a most venomous species, 
and we immediately turned the tide of his sufferings by ordering him to be
destroyed.
All night we lay at anchor, and the yacht ran no little risk of injury ftom, the vast 
number of logs and trees, which were floating down the river. Owing to the unu.
sually, high floods and tides, the stream was at times almost. covered by these 
disagreeable hindrances to our progress. ~Trees of forest 
growth and stature, uprooted in their strength, came upon us with resistless force, 
and it required constant care to prevent collision, when we
were under w&y. A look-out man was always stationed forward," to watch ' their 
coming, and to direct the helmsman how to steer. These 
moving timbers were, however, not so dangerous as the snags, namely, trees, or
parts of them, that have a strong hold on the bottom.
sped our time,, and a Jong and rather weary four days it was before we 
arrived at the city. The night before we reached it the yacht 
underwent a signal misfortune, which certainly occasioned some variety,
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GULF OF MEXICO.	
not a, particularly agreeable nature. It was the night of 1st of February {1844/02/01}, dark, and still, and foggy, A small steamer coming up to the city, 
hailed us several times We Wanted steam, her commander no doubt 
conjecturing that we were at anchor, in despair of making way. The look-out man. on 
deck answered ,No several times upon which the steamer, (as we suppose, ~ut
of envy, malice, and hatred) ran on board of us, us all the mischief in her 
power. Our fore-topmast was carried away, as well as the larboard whisker ; and 
part of the bulwarks on the larboard bow was stove in. Tjje next
morning all hands were employed in clearing away the wreck,
which having been done, we made sail, somewhat shorn of our fair proportions.
At one o'clock we arrived again at New Orleans, and lost no
time in sending on shore for our much wished for letters. One of Mr. Houstoun's first 
occupations was to find out the name of the vessel, which had so signally
insulted us, and to demand satisfaction. The steamer proved to be the Swan," a 
tug, and her owners found themselves obliged to make good 
all the damage we had received.
The appearance of the city was now much more gay and cheerful than it had been 
during our former visit the carnival had begun, and masks were visible in the
windows of the stores. The walls were covered with announcements of forthcoming 
balls, both in the French and English languages. Plays were in great vogue
the Parisian taste for horrors was also prevalent Mansarde de Crime," and 
such like mysterious tragedies, I saw announced for constant repetition.
streets were much dryer, and the shops--I beg their:~ ,,pardon, the
stores~--were more conspicuously and tastefully arranged than in the winter. The spring fashions ~Jtad already made their appearance; and ladies, gaily in 
every colour of the rainbow,-- beginning with the parasol, and ending with the shoes~-were promenading the streets in all directions. Indeed, it seemed
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TtXAS AND THE
that in proportion as business, owing to the season of tile 
year, had declined, pleasure had risen fifty per cent There are but two drives in the 
neighbourhood of New Orleans the old and new Shell-Roads." These roads
raised by artificial means several feet above the Morass, which almost surrounds 
the city. They are f6rm~d upon piles, and are thickly covered, as their name
'implies, with small sea-shells. From this road, you look, down on a swamp on one side, and a canal on the other. Both roads, in the hot season, 
are described as literally swarming with alligators and musquitoes. Happily for
us , the time of the year for these creatures had not yet arrived. During our stay, I saw 
but one young alligater and the musquitoes were not yet brought into light 
mischief , Though still, in what we in England call the depth~of winter, the vegetation 
was as forward as it ofteu is in an English May. The tender green of the beech
was every where visible, and the buds of the hawthorn were almost visibly bursting 
forth under the influence Of the warm sunshine. Wild flowers, such as prefer moist
and watery places, were beginning to show their blossoms; and,among them I noticed several descriptions of briar, were very pretty. Birds were welcoming the
with their small twittering notes, but cheerful as sounded in the still air, we 
missed the full English woodland vocalists. No nightingale winds up his long, long shakes of ecstacy," no skylark Pilgrim of the sky" carolled forth:"-Jiis
welcome to the opening year. missed almost all my old. favourites; and was only
consoled in their absence by the sound of the cuckoo's Twin notes inseparably
paired." His erratic voice was still faithful to the spring" 
One, of the shellroads leads to the Lake of Pontchartrain 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
This lake is of salt water, and its shores are low flat,. There is a sort,of village 
on its banks, whicli considered and used asa watering-place; and though all 
Six miles distant, may be called the Brighton New Orleans. 
Many of the opulent merchants built villas at Pontchartrain, and 
during the summer months, when business is at a stand-still, 
they, e shores of the lake, and refresh themselves n its salt waters. New Orleans
is deserted by the rich inhabitants during the hot unhealthy
season. It is on Sundays that the Shellroad otwht to be visited; it is then 
crowded with pleasure taking citizens ot a carriage is left in the streets unhired
by far the greatest number are filled with negroes it is quite delightful to see how
thoroughly enjoy themselves. Their happy laughing faces are out at
the open windows, and each carriage is as fulI as it can 
hold. The slaves are seen grinning ad chattering incessantly, and 
with a vivacity and excitement Unknown to those, of whom Sundays brings the
happy variety of freedom. Another employment he slaves,
on a Sunday, is the bringing in, on their account, large supplies of the Spanish moss from country. They collect it from the, tall trees in the neighbourhood, and it well 
repays them for the trouble principally used in making beds, and enough fbi." a
purpose may be collected in a few minutes; it' requires but little preparation, 
and the beds thus made remarkably comfortable. I have so often described thi
moss (Tillandsia Usneodes), that I need not say muck, More about it. In the 
neighbourhood of New Orleans',,'It appeared to me particularly 
thick and long, growing frequently to the length of three, or four feet, and almost
hiding its parent tree. The effect of'setting a dead tree fire its clothing of dried 
moss, is very CURIOUS. tried experiment once, and the appearance flames. on the 
rapidly ignited moss, was beautiful. of these Sunday drives I first, sawah.
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TEXAS AND THE
astonishing pace of the trotting horses in America, Shelt-Road is remarkably well 
adapted for showing Off powers being perfectly flat, and smooth. carriage used is as light as possible, and looks as if a mueh less weight than that, of a man 
would break it down The horse 1, saw was said to be a considerable fair
traveller, with most particular good bottom." I should, I afraid, be suspected of an 
Americanism did I venture to assert how fast he went; but the pace struck, me with
wonder. He passed at a trot, like a flash of lightning; and it was a fair trot, not a 
run, or any thing like it. The best and fastest trotter was a Canadian horse These
are generally of a small size, and I fear much cruelty used to break them into trotting 
in this astonishing manner.
CHAPTER XV.
Florida Indians-Thbir habits-Party of prisoners-The" chief Tiger-Tail."
I travelled among unknown men, In lands beyond the sea. wordsworth
And by my side, in battle,true, A thousand warriors dr6w the' shaft.
I may not stain with grief, The death-song of. an Indian chief! CAMPBELL,
I HAD CXpeCted to find "every sort of Indian fancy-work in plenty at New Orleans, 
but I was disappointed, was but little in the stores, and, the price
quite unconscionable. For a small hunting pouch with beads, ind that not very
curiously fifty-two dollars; nearly fourteen pounds Indians, both men women
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GULF OF MEXICO.
they were scantily clothed, with an old blanket wrapped about the or their only 
covering. They in a state of intoxication (with their long shining 
black hair failing over their faces), and shivering with cold., Time at which they were most frequently, to -seen, was early in the morning, and they generally the markets.
our, stay at New Orleans a party o Florida Indians were brought in as 
prisoners, with their squaws children These Indians have for a long time~occa.
great annoyance, and trouble to the government United States. They are 
naturally fond of war, and, althoug i greatly reduced in numbers, are constantly
engaged in hostile insurrections. Who can wonder at efforts made by these poor and 
suffering people to regain possession of their country. Swampy and unwhble
as that country is, still it was their own, and the Indian tribes are never the first to 
forget their fatherland. some parts of Florida are productive and healthy, but
fir the larger portion is wet and marshy, well calculated certainly for the produce and 
increase of snakes, alligators, gnats, and musquitoes, but not an en.
residence for, human beings. In common with the swamps neighbourhood of New 
Orleans, cedar and cypress grow in the Florida marshes to a prodigious size,
the live-oak; and it is in these swampy, forests slender remains of the once 
powerful tribes retreat for shelter from their enemies. That the whole
race of Indians on this Continent must hate the whites.
a bitter hatred, no one can, doubt. On every, occasion have broken faith with them, 
and have made themselves lords of the. soil, by stealing their birth-right 
the original inhabitants. Gradually, but surly the aboriginal Indians 
disappeared from the face, of world driven out by the progress Of civilization. that
by, intermarriages, and other causes, the generation of red
men becomes insensibly mingled W'ith'~,the
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TEXASAND HE
whites, but that by some inevitable decree of Providence they dwindle away, 
and are lost to tile world for eier, All-these things are wonderful, and past
finding out.
The Florida Indians are passionately addicted to hunting, I and by this, means they 
provide themselves and their families with food. Deer, bear, and wolf skins, beside,
bees wax and venison articles they sell to strangers They traffic also in squirrels'
skins, which are beautiful and very valuable; in short, could the Florida Indians 
overcome their longing to be free, they might liv in comfort. enough. Those we saw at 
New Orleans amounted ,in number to about two hundred, and they were con
augmented by *esh captures. 
The poor creatures were kept in the barracks, which are situated about three miles 
from the city on the banks Of the river. They were allowed the free range of the
barrack-yard, but limited enough niust such a liberty have appeared to them, accustomed tothe free air of their native. woods  We paid them several visits after theil
arrival, and the sight interested me extremely. They were most of them fine 
athletic-looking men, muscular, andwell proportioned. I should 
say that they more resemble the Gypsies we are in the habit of seeing in
Europe, than any other people. Their complexion is of the same, dark hue, and their 
hair long, straight, and of the warriors were still in their paint; a
hideous' ,combination, of colours which covered their bodies; red being  
prevailing tint, Tile squaws were not remarkable:~for their -personal
charms; I saw but one .could be pronounced in the least degree, pretty, was very, young, almost a child in appearance., and her infant on her back; she
was nestling at tile feet of young and fine look-in warrior,
the son, I was told; of great chief Occasionally she raised her dark eyes to his face, 
not presuming to address him; watching his movements, and
anticipating his with the patience and submission peculiar
to the lndilai'i wife. The rest of the women were employed in various
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GULF OF MEXICO.
They were evidently considered as infinitely inferior to their lords in the scale of 
humanity, and all the n to perform. Their mode offices were left to 
bruising the Indian corn, which fbrnis their principal article food beating the grain in a large wooden trough heavy pieces of wood. It must have been
labour, yet the squaws performed it without slightest assistance from 
the men, who, I t, would have felt themselves degraded, had and to the work. Others
of these hard-work females ere boiling potatoes for the daily
meal, and and all bore upon their backs a little patient infant little creatures 
were tightly swathed, like dimi dummies, and had no power to 
move any part of persons excepting their large round eyes, which
staring about in restless activity. There were a ber of children of all ages and 
sizes playing about, most of them were pretty and interesting.
I was very much struck by the extreme gravity.and silence preserved by the whole 
party, men and women. even in their amusements, the same dignified
composure visible. We often fbund the young men playing at game, which greatly 
resembled the old English sport Hockey." 'I'hey displayed much skill and act this
exercise: the old men in the mean time gravely on. Some of the warriors were 
stretched ground wrapped in their blankets, while others were
leaning, with folded arms, against the walls. Among the prisoners was a 
great ,chief and warrior. name was Tiger Tail," and it was one that had
spread terror and dismay amongst his enemies. The chief was now old, 
his strength was on the decline, he Was patiently waiting the summons of,the Great 
spirit the reward of a brave warrior, inthe hunting grounds of the blest. But 
once -ore, war-whoop had sounded in his ears battle afar ofT, the aged 
chief prepared last war-path, with the young warriors
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TEXAS AND THE
tribe. Gallantly they fought, but the Manitou had turned away his face from his 
children, and after a fierce struggle they, bent their heads 
beneath his displeasure and were. led awav captive. During 
this last engagement Tiger Tail wag severely wounded, and from the 
nature of hurt, his sufferings must have been very great. Notwithstanding this, he refused every offer of surgical assistance,,and with true Indian stoicism, looked as 
composed and as mentally.unsubdued, as though lie were seated at
the council-fire of his tribe.
The skill and bravery of Tiger Tail" had on former occasions caused 
considerable loss to the American troops, and his capture was a source of peculiar
congratulation' to them. During their march in the winter season, through the vast 
forests of Florida, they had been unavoidably. subjected to much hardship; 
and the children, in particular must have greatly suffered. I was told (by, means of an 
interpreter) that one poor little fellow, a b(f not five years old, had been lost in 
the forest on their, march. Three months elapsed before he was
found. During all that time he had been alone, and, had existed literally upon 
fruits and wild honey. He was a remarkably intelligent.looking child, 
as indeed they all were:, when- he was, discovered in the forest,'the boy
was in very good preservation, and seemed likely to remain s6~, plump, 
merry-looking little urchin he was, and there-, was that in his eye, that would have
made a warrior,in~ the palmy days of Indian power.
The prisoners were, remarkably well fed and cared for and on the whole~did 
not look unhappy. They were occasionally allowed the indulgence of performing
their traditional war-dance, and, this was done invariably at night 
The scene was lighted up by torches, which they bished in their hands. The 
stamping movement of feet was accompanied at intervals by the most disco
whoops, and thewhole ballet. though extremely was any thing but 
a graceful exhibition. The first time we appeared amongst them, the Indians
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GULF OF MEXICG.
no marked signs of wonder. They looked at e, and rather suspiciously, but once, 
only, did I roused to any thing like animation. The object their curiosity was my sable 
boa, and I shall not easily the, silent wonder with which sonle of the grave old
hunters regrarded it. One of them, without any ceremony, took 
it away from me, in order to examine it more closely circle was then formed, and they 
deliberated nature, and origin. The prevalent opinion was, that it was
the full length tail of some animal creature to them unknown, on whom Nature
hada bestowed a , fly-disperser of unusual length beauty. After lookingat it for a 
long time, one, of them endeavoured to fasten it on the back of a brother
hunter, who stood near: having done this, he proceeded curl it up in order to make it 
look as natural as possible. 'I'lie joke wag hailed by the rest with a momentary
laugh but in another second their countenances were as still, and as 
impassive as befbre. I had no idea they could be half so facetious.
generally distributed some small coins amongst however, they appeared to set 
but little value much more acceptable present, I have no have been
some whiskey or rum. In common savage tribes, they were passionately fond 
spirits, not the least among the evils for which c to thank their
civilized successors. believe that it is the intention of the government to
prisoners to St. Louis, with the object of settling the Western Prairies.
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TEXAS AND TH
CHAPTER XVI.
public carriages--Negro slaves-Their habits and customs Absence of religious 
feelings and observance at New Orleans Favourite sports-Stoppage, of a bank-
American crimps-Methodicalhabits of the citizens-Commerce of New Orleans.
Ye menof prostrate minds! Shame on you, feeble heads to slavery prone'!
WORDSWORTH.
THEim is a railroad from New Orleans to Pontchartrain; rather an indifferent one, 
certainly, for the carriages are none of them superior to our second
class" vehicles, while there is not even the satisfaction of going quickly over the around.
carriages which stand in the streets for hire, are, as, I before remarked, 
particularly good and comfortable. They are usually driven by slaves, and at a
very'good pace. We employed the same carriage and driver nearly every day during 
our stay. The former was a species of caleche, and, the negro, performed the
office of charioteer, was the most, communicative individual I ever slaw. He was a 
very merry fellow, black as jet, and as,, shining as a plentiful supply of cocoa-
nut oil, could make him His pockets were always full of nuts of various kinds, which he cracked and ate during the, short pau in his conversation. He often talked to 
us on the , Slave question," told us how much money he had the opportunities
of earning on his own account, and begged us that it would by no, means 
answer for him to be free  The recollection ofthis man induces me to say
A words upon the apparently happy  life led by this' Much 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
pitied raceat New Orleans. Among the list of grievances, ard it asserted that they are 
kept strictly apart white brethren," and are evidently considered this
marked separation, as a degraded and inferior race. This,
at New Orleans, is certainly not the case I was constantly in the habit of 
seeing well-dressed American children, evidently the offspring of respectable
parents playing with little piccaninies, as black and as curly-headed
as little niggers could well be. , A perfect system equality apparently existed among 
them, and in their merry games the laugh of the black child 
clear and ringing as that of his white playfellow
our drives through the streets, especially on sundays, the display of negro 
finery and taste was very remarkable. If we happened to overtake a particularly
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TEXAS *N0 THE
well-dressed person with a Parisian coat, a glossy hat and well-varnished boots, we were sure to be surprised by seeing a black face, appended to these advantages. i saw such persecuted negro slaves ftequently; they appeared to
have no other occupation than that of flourishing about their gold-headed canes, and 
fixing a glass in their eye Gloves (which are an unusual Sight at New Orleans) they,
generally indulged in, - and with one hand gracefully placed in the coat-pocket, looked 
worthy-be4irid--Of figuring in the, Tuileries, or St. James's Street. No one
pays higher for his outfit than the negro in the-, slave states. He gives his money too, 
so carelessly, and with, such an independent air. I have heard of their giving
eighty dollars for a.suit of clothes ; and their industry, and efforts to procure money, 
are highly praiseworthy;They are in the habit of giving their masters a certain,
sum of money, (generally, I believe, about two dollarsa day,) in lieu of their services. 
Their time, then, is their own, and they are at liberty, to make as much more out
of it as they can. From what I saw and heard, I am inclined to think that many of 
the domestic slaves would not accept their liberty, were it offered to them. There
is scarcely any spectacle more affecting in idea than that of a human being made a 
matter of barter. I,wentto, America strongly prejudiced against this unnatural traffic,
and prepared to view every instance of it,with horror, and 
every, slave with compassion and, sympathy. I became, however, after a short time, 
somewhat moderated in MY opinions; and though still regarding the slave-trade 
generally, in the Sam, e light, I began to,,,think that the slaves themselves were not quite so much to be pitied as I had" imagined. The first time I saw a 
slave sold I was affected almost to tears, but after contemplating their cheerful
happy faces, and seeing how well and'kindly they were generally treated, I learned to 
view the scene with diflbreni: feelings. A slave. sale isin,&6me respects laughable
enough. The American auctioneer prince of auctioneers George Robins himself
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GULF Oi MEXICO.
exercise his vocation, I once saw a very small lot put up; it was a 
poor-looking creature about four feet high, and appeared certainly not much accustomed stand in high places: he stood up, however, boldly enough 
auctioneer, dressed in the smart clothes kept for the especial purpose of making the
poor fellows look their best. The auctioneer began, fine young man, gentlemen, 
is warranted to be twenty years of age; sound in wind and limb--he
an excellent character, and a good temper. More. over, g ntlemen, he was born in 
the state of Mississippi, And is warranted to be a first-rate field hand, and a 
ter good cotton-picker. It 'ud be a privilege to have geltlemen.,, All this 
time the object of such eloquent praise stood on the elevated platform, and instead 
(as one would imazine) looking distressed and unhappy, seemed only rather 
bewildered, and grinned throughout ceremony from ear to ear.
There certainly is a great absence of religious -feeling observance in this city. This 
may be attributed, in some measure, to the admixture of the 
Catholic and Protestant faith, professed by its various inhabitants. There
however, imagine, a deeper cause for the want of religion observable here. - There is 
no religion having authority, democratic countries, and particularly among 
unimaginative people, like the Americans, feeling becomes weakened and 
extinguished, when the outward observance of the rites and ceremonies of
religion in no degree a part of, the government of the country subject is too 
important, and in much learned disquisition for me venture touch it. I can only repeat 
the broad fact, that religion treated with no respect at New Orleans. I have before 
that Sunday their great day of amusement however, alone would not 
establish the fact of their negligence in, religious- matters. We do the same 
unfortunately England. and in almost all parts of the European Continent, and 
should not be the first, therefore,
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TEXAS ANDTHE
to, throw the 'stone., But the ceremonies of religion church-going, &c., are not 
thought of here ; they scarcely -even think it necessary to profess a faith. 
is one under frequent discussion between'the wise men of Northern Southern 
States ; and numerous arguments arise in consequence. former asserts, that 
the North it is absolutely necessary to the character of an individual, nominally a member of some religious persuasion or other. Catholic, Protestant, Shaker or Quaker, follower of Johanna Southcote, or an Anabaptist, it did signify; but one
or other he must choose. Ile must, they say, be something ; whereas at New Orleans 
Nobody is any thing.1le
The favourite sport on Sunday is that of rifle-shooting, Thousands flock to the ground 
where the performance takes place, and great is the emulation excited among
the aspirants for fame. The mark is a turkey, wbich is fastened to the flattened 
sturnp of a tree, and the distance from it to the marksman is about seventy yards.
The turkeys used for this. purpose are brought down the Mississippi, by dozens, 
flat-bottomed boats. The American sportsmen failed in impressing us with a high
opinion of their skill as rifle shots. They talk a great deal about it,; but that, we all 
know, is no proof superiority, one of the New Orleans Society, who enjoyed the
reputAtion of bein ~ one of the best shots in the United States, showed us a perforated target, of which he appeared extromely proud. laid wager, that
distance' of seventy yards he would put half a dozen balls into it target wafer was 
placed in the centre, and none of the balls enter at a greater distance than five 
inches from the, wafer. He had come off victorious in the match, and the target was
laid up among his fimily relics, as a precious and honour"able trophy of his 
skill., We remarked,previous to the wager being explained to us, that the, balls were
rather wide of the centre, but his amoUr 'propre, was great to receive a check, 
easily;--and,he it was who boasted that he could pick,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
man at the I distance of a thousand yards across the Mississippi
fearful tragedy wa cted hortly bee our departure from New Orleans. A large bank 
stopped payment and Ahe announcement was attended by an excitement
among the inhabitants almost unequalled. Men rushing about through the 
streets, some with bags of dollars on their, shoulders, and all with dismay
marked/ on their countenances. During the f tl , day, the various banks in the city were
of their cash, but it was not till the following morning that we 
learnt the most painful part of the story, that the president of the bank, 
a man much considered and respected in New Orleans had committed
suicide He left his house the day that the bank broke, and twenty-four hours after was 
found dead in the Yellow Fever Burial-Ground, having stabbed 
himself through the This sad instance of irreligion, and moral cowardice, more 
deplorable, as the unhappy man misfortune to possess a wife and a large family
children. We were toldthat it was necessary to keep a constant, watch
te over sailors, when in the harbour, of New Orleans, they are frequently in the habit of 
escaping. It was becoming late in the business-season; a great ships had sailed; and many of those still remaining f4 fid great difficulty in procuring seamen 
for voyage home. On hearing this, Mr. Houstoun took early Opportunity of informing 
the crew of the Dolphin, that lie had no desire of retaining any man in 
vessel against his will; and that if any of the ships company disposed to go,
departure at once, and openly, instead of skulking off at last moment, and leaving us without sufficient hands work the ship.
prepared, we - lay upon our oars," and awaited result. There is a thoroughly organized system here entrapping English sailors, who are highly valued,
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TEXAS AND THE
both as merchant and men-of-war's-men. I may here recommend latter to read Mr. 
Dana's wOrk, Two Years bef6re~ the Mast." The Americans are incessantly
men the various ships to thcy~ belong. The pay they offer is enormously
high, thirty, dollars (six pounds a month) have been,, frequently given, and it,may be 
imagined that very few sailors are proof against such high bribery as this.
Merchant ships at New Orleans generally have their cargo stowed by contractors, who 
are experienced in the business, and who employ blacks and Irishmen for the
purpose: the affair being arranged in this manner, it becomes almost a desideratum
with the captains of merchant vessels to get rid of their hands as soon as Possible.,
They 'are thus spared the trouble and expense of keeping
them during, the six weeks or two months that their ship, remain harbour. When a 
vessel is ready to sail, the captain has recourse to what is 
called a crimp, of which there are plenty, and'this individual undertakes to man the
ship. At two or three o'clock on the morning 'Of departure, the captain goes into the 
forecastle, count$,: over the number of heads attached to so 
many drunken bodies,and, finding the number stipulated for, he pays the agent the
promised reward, and goes off as soon as he is, of course, immediately taken 
in tow by a steam-tug, and she is perhaps well out of the river heterogeneous crew are roused from their deep sleep Of intoxication- Olne can fancy 
the absurdity of waking scene. Each man, having been, probably, in state
of perfect unconsciousness whep taken on board fin4s a difficulty in 
comprehending his situation. The man, used to sailing in a little 
schooner, with perhaps two hands on board, fi4ds, himself in a large ship, on the
deep sea, with fifty strange, faces around him. fresh water sailor, has been for 
years on board the Mississippi steamboats, andhas become so used 'to the
loud voices of their high-pressure engines, that he can hardly
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GUIX OF MEXICO.
sleep without their lullaby, awakes-feels himself bounding on in silence, and cannot 
understand how he can be Oil without noise, smoke, or jerking. In like in
the fisherman, who had never conte plated the possibility of his leaving his 
native river, awakes in a liner bound for Liverpool, and in bewildered astonishment gazes on the stupid countenances of his companions in -'misfortune. It is
no uncommon thing for landsmen to Pass themselves off as
sailors, in order to gain the tempting wages offered to them. On
one occasion, the doctor was witness to an amusing scene, in these soi disant 
able-bodied seamen were actors. They were going through a, regular 
course of practice, to enable them to pass muster, and to prevent 
the immediate discovery of their trickery.
No attempts were made to prevent our men from coming in contact with bribery and 
corruption. Here,asinevery 'other port that we visited during our 
cruise, they had permission to go on shore whenever they asked for it- half 
number were always away from the yacht; rarely happened that they broke th ir 
leave however, to our great surprise, for we had seen no marks of
disaffection, or desire for change, we greeted by the unwelcome intelligence that two 
of otir men were missing, and it was supposed had gone over
the Americans. They had escaped during the night, silence, and 
without any witness, as far as we could ~,,prove. The look-out
man declared that he had not seen -ir departure, but we could not believe him
felt, however, that he could not have betrayed his messmates 
and we did not press for his confidence. The two deserters were the only 
married men on board, were anxious to return to their domestic comforts
we afterwards learnt that they had taken service merchant brig bound for England. 
Subsequently We continually noticed well-dressed men, endeavouring to inveigle
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TEXAS AND THE
and entice away the men who formed the crew of the gig Directly these men perceived us approaching, they hu ried away with every mark of confusion. Mr. Houstoun
thought proper to fbilow the example Set him, we might soon 
have found substitutes, by mLT to the same dishonourable 
means which were employ in out own case. As it was,
however, we were not lo delayed by a deficiency of hands. The service of English 
yacht is sure to be a popular one, and the new men were pronounced active, and
sharp : tJIeY were both; Englishmen, and had lately served in ~a man-of-war.
I should say, speaking of the Americans in the daily habits of their lives, that they 
are a particularly methodical people., The same thing is almost invariably the same
hour, let it be 1, liquoring," eating soup, over 'Change, or entering the gambling-houses, o be it remembered, there are many. For a somewha cold
blooded people, it is marvellous to me how fond the Americans are of this species
of excitement. It exis shapes; and their horse-races are attended more re and more 
energetically even than our own; betting, on these occasions, is most spirited.
Another of the remarkable points in the character New Orleans citizen, 
is, as I was informed, his fondness for duelling. The nearness of their birth-
place the, Equator, may possibly account both for this and
their gambling propensities; the hot blood of the south having
certainly a little to do with these peculiar vices I have heard it affirmed that duels take 
place most quentlv in the hot season. At this period they are s to become
irascible, and to be easily excited, and it is j as well for peaceable men to keep out of 
their way. the winter, on the contrary, they become quiet and phlegmatic
There are regular soup-houses here. Their soups principally consist of oysters 
and gumbo, the latter a root peculiar to the country collected by the Indians
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the cold air chills their blood, and they at once to be dangerous-
give one proof of the extremely methodical habits New Orleans citizens, and of the 
adroit manner in certain matters are managed here. The post-office
large building, in the centre of which there is a bar, liquoring-hall.', A clock of conspicuous ap arance decorates the, entrance. merchants, are in
habit of calling for their letters at the post-office, no delivery in any other manner. The 
man the bar-and a cunning man lie must have remarked, that at a certain hour all the 
merchants, securing their despatches, went off to another house
to liquor. He took great pains to ascertain the exact hour at which this ceremony took place; and having done made his arrangements accordingly. It appeared, that
going ,on 'Change," the merchants, as though ac.by one simultaneous motive, took their morning liquor precisely at half past ten. The hands ofthe post-office clock pointed at a quarter past ten when the letters were delivered; and the men of 
business immediately hurried of to take their invigorating draught. Our
at the post-office, craftily and in secret, contrived to move on the hands of his clock some ten minutes. merchants looked up. "What! As I'm alive, it's ast ten a'most ; its infarnal late; I actilly must take liquor here to-day, Sir." And so they all did, And
a time, it became a, confirmed habit to take their dram, at the bar of the post-office.	He was a very smart. man that gin sling and sherry cobler seller.
I believe that the liquoring" hour often tells the New Orleans citizen o'clock it is, so regular is the habit, so, indispensable is it to his comfort. 
it is impossible not to reflect with admiration, walks through the streets of New 
Orleans, on the distance to which goods are conveyed people purchase them. Every fifth store isa hatter's, judge from -the flourishing state of this branch of
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TEXAS AND THE
trade awful good" hats must be in great demand Numbers are sent to the Yankees 
in the Far West as the dress in those distant settlements savage 
and primitive the effect of a very large shining hat the head of one of these 
skin-clad settlers, must be very charming. Another remark I made 
at New Orleans connected with a, much more important branch of trade
mav not be uninteresting. At New Orleans, I saw gown of printed, cotton, which 
had been purchased atv one I of the stores; the pattern was pretty, the price very`~
moderate, and, the colours indelible. The cheapness the cotton, I thought so 
remarkable, that I was induced to ask ,whence it came?" reply was, that it
of American manufacture. And so it was-and even unskilled as I am in commercial 
matters, was struck by the possible consequences of the perfection to 
whih the, Americans have brought their manufactures. never
thought much on the subject, but I had alway, supposed that all kinds of cotton and 
woollen goods, be. sides iron ware, were imported into America England. 
great surprise, however, I found that ,nearly every thing kind that we saw was of
native manufacture, and that the prices of them were no: higher than in England. It
is a positive fact, and tainly an important one, that in year 1826, one hundred and fifty 
millions of yards of calico were imported into the United States;
and that last year tl was reduced to fifteen millions! It appears to me,th America has, 
thus far, derived benefit from her ilin restrictive tariff; for she is now, as far as
regards, manufacture of cotton, woollen, and iron goods, inpendent of other countries. The manufacturing of articles is so profitable a business, that several Englih
companies are establishing factories, &c. in various parts of America. When the Yankee spirit of enterprise go-a-headism is taken into consideration, it
conjectured that, at no distant period, formidable rivals to Great Britain, and will
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GULF or MEXICO.
her exclusive of supplying the world With the articles above mentioned.
have laid in a stock of new books for the voyage-, for at no place can a temporary 
library be procurc-A at a less outlay than United States. Bulwer's novel of the 
Last of the Barons," was sold at two bitsi--about eleven pence-every other work in 
proportion! A work published in England comes out almost simultaneously in
the United States; and English works of standard authors are eagerly bought, and 
read susPeet-mostly by the ladies.
CHAPTER XVII
Mr. Clay the popular orator-General remarks on American 'society and 
manners-Departure from New Orleans.
Sj nous nVions point de d4fauts, nous ne prendrions pas tant de plaisir a en 
remarquer dans lesautres. ROCHEFOUCAULD.
Vesprit de defiance nous fait croire que tout le monde est pable de nous tromper.
LA BRUYERE.
MR. CLAY was at New Orleans: he is their great orator whig, and it is 
supposed by many that he will be president at some future time. There was much
public dancing, driving, eating and speechifying in his honour, for among the 
characteristics of their English origin that of exercising their eating and drinking
powers in behalf of a popular character, still remains in all its glory. Mr. Clay is 
de rvedly popular; he was a sort of progress through the States, but I am does
not pay his travelling expenses out of his own purse. makes a vast difference, and is the strongest proof of the orator's popularity. The affiections endure appeal 
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TEXAS AND THE
to, their pockets. The last tribute paid before his departure, to the orator's high, 
and well-deserved reputation, appeared in the shape of a public ball. Invitations
were sent on board the yacht, but unluckily they onj arrive& the day after the f6te ; 
and by this means we Were prevented from witnessing what was, no doubt,a,
interesting national display. I heard, however, the events evening described, and 
Mr. Clay's Polite speech to the New Orleans ladies was much admired.
I One of my ' greatest sources of amusement, was in remarking how different are the 
sayings and doings of a people speaking the same language, and descended 
from the same parent stock as ourselves. In the stores, you will see people, who should you happen to meet them the next day; will be prepared at 
once to claim your notice, by shaking hands with you. This custom, strange as it
at first appears to the inhabitant of aristocratic countries, is very easily accounted for. 
Let it be remembered that, in this country, no honest calling" precludes a man from
the right of being called a ,gentlernan," and that whilst you,are possibly stigmatizing 
him as forward" or ~ impertinent," he is not in the least degree conscious, that
because your fortune may consist in lands, place or funded property, and his in dry 
goods, you are, therefore, in any way privileged to consider yourself a greater man
than himself.
It struck me, however, that the manners of the Americans were deficient in that real 
dignity, which consists in one's right place in society and keeping it. In such a
society as,,exists in America, all stations are ill defined,
nor can there ever he a standard of good-breeding, where 
so many causes concur to render the grades of society for ever fluctuating. Much, 
therefore, is left, to the intuitive tact and natural good sense of 
each individual; but the peculiar sensitiveness of the Americans renders
them perhaps ill qualified to manage these delicate matters well. 
particularly to be remarked when brought in contact with foreigners. American
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who, in his own country, and towards his own people, courteous and polite,-neitlier 
vainglorious, nor apt to offence,--becomes in Europe, or amongst Europeans
this very want of knowing his station) abrupt. rude and offensively boastPul. He 
lives in constant fear transgressing those rules of etiquette, of which lie
overrates the importance; and, fearful of not enough considered, 
and aiming at achieving a trivial unworthy importance, he ceases to be the
independent character, for which nature and, education intended him.
But to return to the effect produced upon us by the apparent familiarity of an 
American's first abord. The Englishman, wrapped up in his armour of aristocratic
absurdity, need not be alarmed at the advances of the well-meaning Yankee; the latter has his share of pride, ~and that not a trifling one; last man world to 
force his acquaintance where there is the slightest chance of its being 
unwelcome. I allow, that "'Oome things here are startling enough at first, and I confess that I did not quite like hearing my maid called, lady that waits upon you." One 
is also certainly apt to imagine undue familiarities and disrespect, where
of the kind is intended : but wait a little; divest few of the prejudices engendered 
and ed by our conventional state of society, and we soon be less shocked,
and more willing to give our friends water credit for good feeling, and good
sense though perhaps not for good taste. The English apt to assert as an undeniable 
fact, that Americans are ungentlemanlike;" thus arrogating to the right of 
deciding upon the manners of a whole nation. But let us ask on what grounds
they claim this exclusive censorship? We have, I admit, set f
or ourselves a standard of refinement, and savoir faire diflerent from any 
thing we are likely to meet With United States; but does it, therefore, 
follow that right; or that, allowing that our habits are
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TEXAS AND THE
More I refined, there are not advantages in their democratic state of society., which more than counterbalance those of which we are so proud?
In aristocratic societies, where all is polished, thereis more, much more that is false
the soft, and pleasant veil of refinement, in rendering vice less revolting,
greatly increases its growth and in a society su ch as OUTS, where the display 
natural feelings is repressed by the cold rules of ceremony and what is called good
breeding, great risk is run of their being extinguished altogether. genuine 
kindheartedness of the Yankee is not checked by these cold and 
unnatural laws, and vice with them, being seen in all its naked deformity,
unadorned and hideous, is never mistaken for what it is not, but is reprobated as it 
deserves to be.
Originality, and absence of affectation, are the essential characteristics of 
American manners ; I speak of the gentleman of the United States, when in his own
country. Whatever is original, and natural, carries with it a certain respectability, but 
directly this is lost, indifferent -imitations take its place,, and the imitative
American like, every one else in similar circumstances, becomes ridiculous. The manners of the Americans in general, however, are not bad, 
and it can only be alleged against them. that they have no artificial
manners at all. ' This, in.our, estimation, is a grievous fault; and it must be 
admitted that infinite pleasure is taken by our countrymen in turning into ridicule the
peculiarities of a people, of whose real excellencies they are too prejudiced to judge 
impartially. That the ridicule is returned by the Americans, and with interest,
and often with as much legitimate food for its exercise,
there is no doubt. The manners and habits of the English,
differing so essentially from their own, are not likely to
escape with impunity; and whilst tile members of aristocratic community are 
laughing contemptuously at the want of courtly breeding displayed by the
Americans, the latter are still less lenient to our
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GULF or MEXICO.
devotion to trivial etiquette, and what they consider our adulation of rank and station.
what can be the motives which induce two great nations to be constantly 
attacking each~ other in ion way. They are on different sides of the Atlantic
surely there is room enough in the world hostile feeling existing 
between the countries kept alive by the constant attacks of authors, in are
ignorant of the nature of really good society people cross the Atlantic from 
the east -and west; a clever, but possibly an underbred English 
makes a tour of the States, sees absolutely nothing, good American society, and 
publishes a book, criticising that of which he or she is totally unqualified to give
an opinion. This work is then sent across the Atlantic, as a 
faithful picture of the habits and national characteristics of a great 
nation. Upon this, there fols squib after squib from either side. The great 
features of national character are disregarded, and the points of attack are small 
personal defects, faults of language and coarseness of behaviour. 
Animosity, is excited in both nations, for who can deny that ridicule is harder to bear than abuse. Neither the English, nor the Americans find it easy to forgive an
affront, and the jealousy and suspicion, once thoroughly aroused,	be long before it is allayed. Owing to this feeling, the English traveller in the States
greatest difficulty in arriving at truth; whilst American in England sees every thing 
through a mental vision distorted by prejudice, jealousy, and vin
principal charges brought against our friends the Atlantic is, that they are 
in the, habit both of themselves and their country, offensive manner. If we were 
not a considerable share of pride ourselves, complain so much when we meet 
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TEXAS AND THE
others; for that which renders the vanity of others so insupportable, is that it wounds 
our own. The Americans are proud, and justly so, of their self 
earned freedom, of the liberal constitution of their country the place in the scale. 
of nations in which their exertions have,placed them. It is unfortun however, that
they cannot bear their honours meekly, do injury to.their own, and their country's cause, by t habits of exaggeration and self-praise. There is a want of quiet
and genuine dignity about the American's sense of freedom and equality. If he feels 
that the advantages he thus enjoys are great, let him value 
thCrn in silence, and let their fruits be seen. The American, however, would not
be half so boastful, did they feel that they Were Correctly judged, and rightly 
appreciated by us. That they will be so in time, I have little doubt, but time must elapse
before either party will be softened. It is a good genuine brotherly hatred, the strongest 
of any when it once takes root, because, in fraternal feuds, jealousy has always
wore or less a share.
But -it is not only in their personal habits, that the Americans find themselves 
exposed to attack and criticism. A strong feeling against their good faith and
trustworthiness certainly exists, both as regards their public and private relations, In 
this respect, I can make buffew remarks, and those certainly cannot be in their
justification. Amongst themselves, it is well known that there hardly exists a man, who 
for the sake of realizing a profit, be it ever so small, will scruple to employ any
means in his power to overreach his neighbour. This being known and acknowledged, it excites arnong themselves neither fear nor indignation; the struggle between these acute calculators becomes neither more nor less
than, a keen encounter of their wits, in which honour and high feeling have no share. .
It is true that both parties, (where the nicans employed are no secret) start I upon equal terms; but such freedom: of action, (to speak of it in the mildest terms)
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GULF OF MEXICO.
certain degree, blunt the susceptibilities, and cause, an absence of gentlemanly and 
honourable feeling in their money concerns, both public and private.,~ Notwithstand
ing all this 0 believe that such better feelings do exist, and I ani convinced, that in 
proportion as an American Vill exert all his energies to shave his adversary on-
',change, so he will be true as steel to the friend whom he has
once admitted to his confidence.
The only apparent aristocracy in the United States is that of' wealth, and heaven 
knows the idol isr in no want of worshippers. It has, however, been impossible for 
even this democratic and money-making people to root out of
their English natures their respect for rank, and their zeal for personal 
aggrandizement. They have a way of talking about titles and hereditary distinctions, from royalty to the last made peer, which is meant to mark their
"contempt for such aristocratic follies. It is done, too, with a bravado, which is often 
intended to shock the . prejudices of their English auditors. The very frequency of
~their recurrence to these topics, however, sufficiently 
marks the degree of importance which.they attach to I saw instances of this 
without end, ~and even heard of an American gentleman, who, being 
confined to his bed during a long illness, seriously amused himself
with reading the Peerage from beginning to end! In short, I should say, thatno 
people bead the knee lower at the shrine of hereditary rank 
than the Americans; and I verily believe, that if Queen Victoria were to take an ex
cursion across the Atlantic, a circumstance which, in these days of locomotive 
Sovereigns seems not quite impossible, her Majesty might travel from Now York to
Virginny, with true-hearted Yankees harnessed to her travelling carriage. I do not 
know, however, if I could venturc to affirin as much, if royalty were to pay them a
visit under any other form than that of youth and beauty.
I think it is De Tocqueville who remarks on thefiondness ofthe Americans generally for 
tracing back, their origin to the first colonists of the country; 
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TEXAS AND THE
with, all their jealousy of the Mother Country, they are~ exceedingly proud of their 
Anglo-Saxon origin. I haye~also noticed, that notwithstanding the very equality ,
Of which the Yankee so frequently boasts, as marking the superiority of his own nation over that of.every other' people, he is most anxious to disclaim the existence of in, his own person. By some means or other, he is always attempting to prove that he is a splendid exception to the general rule,.and that he is a great man on his owl, ac.
count.-ti very triton among the minnows.
Another petty cause of still more, trivial quarrels, is a habit to which the Americans are 
remarkably addicted, namely, that of drawing incessant comparisons between
the two countries, If the institutions, the habits, or even the
public characters of Great, Britain are under discussion, an American immediately sets to work to find some parallel in his own country, the merits of which lie hopes
will throw those of the opposite party into the shade. Violent and provoking language 
is often the result of this injudicious conduct ; and unfortunately, even in private
society, and in the presence of  ladies, they are too apt to
lead the conversation to these unsafe and disagreeable 
subjects. As an instance of this, an American gentleman one evening said to me, speaking of the apartment in, which we were sitting. , I expect now, you've not such
lofty rooms as, these, Ma'am, in the Old Country ?11 then again, -Why now, don't you 
diet in public at the hotel? you might do it in England, but here we never, do insult
our females." It is difficult, in offering opinion on the American people, to avoid 
giving offence to~,;,; one side or the other. Few travellers in the United States 
will venture to be sincere in their remarks. The'~, English are
not satisfied'if the dish of American abuse.~,~,,,., served up
to them, is insufficient, to satisfy the cravings efll~ their appetite, whilst the Yankees are equally indignan( if they are spoken of in any other' terms, than as the,
greatest nation on the face of God's airth." Of thei r public
debts I have said enough, and will only add, that,~,-'
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GULF OF MEXICO.
expect to be popular in England, so long as losers by their dishonesty. 
On the other parties should remember that they are descended the same
parent stock, (and this ought to be as soon as possible, for burying their 
grievances ~ii oblivion. The national character of the Americans is
same as. our own; changed, however, and modified a wi e difterent' form of 
government, and habits commercial. That these habits are among 
those that "tame great nations," there is no question; I fear it is equally true, that 
when 4 men change swords or legers," "ennobling thoughts depart." In
respects, they may be better than those who live in land- of their fathers, 
and in others worse; let us, therefore, hope for peace between them.
For my own part, I confess that after a short residence towards the inhabitants 
of this fine specimen of an American city, very different feelings from
with which I entered it. It is true, indeed, that experience of their character, and my time for observation, were both limited; still, during the season of
our residencet thousands met at New Orleans from all of the American Union. This is 
always the case the winter and business months; and I was informed 
perhaps no where could so good an opportunity for strangers to see a 
considerable variety character and incident. The Americans are, I should hospitable warm-hearted, and generous; and in particularly to the English who visit city
middle lower classes (for, notwithstandIng their boasted equality, such distinctions 
do, and must exist), I should pronounce them to be far superior, education
conduct, and address, to the corresponding class in our, own country. The 
knowledge which each ,possesses, that he may, by good conduct and.
superior attainments,, raise himself to the highest consideration
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TEXAS AND THE
enjoyed among his countrymen, must, in almost cases, have tile effect Of 
stimulating the inind to good and useful endeavours, and preventing the increase of
orderly, idle, and useless members of the community
Our intention, in returning to New Orleans, had been, to ascend the Mississippi to a 
considerable distance, to' see as much as we could in a short time of this
wonderful river, and the great and rising Cities On its, banks. Our purpose was defeated, by hearing unsatisfactory accounts of the state of tile country; the snows
and ice not being sufficiently melted to render travelling agreeable I was extremely 
disappointed at finding that,. my plan i., making a northern tour 
could not be carried, into execution. It is, however, only postponed; and I hope at
some future time to extend my knowledge of America beyond its present narrow limits. I have said, that in Louisiana. the nature of the people is kind and liberal
what it may be in the Northern States, Nvher~ the climate
and other causes, may contribute to ebill the feelings and
deaden the quick impulses, I have yet to learn. can hardly imagine a more pleasurable excursion than that of ascending or descending the 
Mississippi, in one of their great river steamers. I went on board one largest.
the Missouri, before we left, and was really I astonished,at the comfort of the 
interior. There is 901", much room for every,one, such space 
for walking-exercise, that confinement in her would, I think, be no punishment,
even for a considerable time. And then, ther'O" would he 
the constant variety of scenery, the change I place-all delightful. But the time has 
come when WW", mast take our leave. I see the little fleet forming Texan navy busy
in making preparations for a warlike cruise; and I hear our. men singing and joking,
delight at the prospect of a change. The order is given to weigh anchor, and we
float down the stream onm"i,','more. As we approached the mouth of the pass, we 
perceived, two large cotton-vessels bound
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Liverpool drawing about sixteen feet of water, sticking mud, We were told that they had 
been in the ion three weeks, and that it was not unusual remain there double that time. They looked forlorn uncomfortable.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Second arrival at Galveston-Texan news--The Ellen Frankland
steamer's voyage up the Trinity river-Its importance -State of
commerce-Capacity of Galveston harbour-False accounts Of
crime in Texas-Fortune-getting propensity.
Nor will life's stream for observation stay, it burries all too fast to mark their way: in 
vain sedate reflections we would make, When half our knowledge we must
snatch, not take. POPE.
Have we not track'd the felon home, and found His birth-place, and his dam? Cowper
Let th' arraign'd Stand up unconscious, and refute the charge. Idem
AFTER a short and prosperous voyage, we were again anchor in Galveston harbour	Immediatly after our we received the cordial greetings of our kind and were
congratulated on having a third time braved the dangers of the bar 
in safety. Our first inquiry wag, of course, for news, and were not afraid of
the reply, so commonly made in Europe,,,, No nothing at all going on-all as 
flat a possible." Just at 'this struggling country, every hour brings
event, and not a day passes without being some endeavour (often a successfid 
one) of tic settlers to raise their country into strength
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TEXAS AND THE
and prosperity. The most important among the events which were in progress, was the advance of a body of Mexicans. They were said to be approaching the town
of Bexar, but not in any considerable force. The' Texans did not seem in, the least afraid of them; indeed, I rather thought our friends would not 
object to having another brush with the enemy. The President was still -up tile
country at Washington; and it had been announced that the lady of the General (the 
Presidentess, or whatever her title may be), had given birth to a son. May Ile one
day fill the office, and enjoy the honours now so worthily borne by his sire. 
Another circumstance which had lately occurred, had caused great satisfaction.
steamer, by name the Ellen Frankland, had returned in safety to the harbour, after 
having made a successful voyage UP the Trinity river, to a distance of between four
and five hundred miles from its mouth. This was the first occasion of such an 
undertaking having succeeded; and it fornis almost an era in 
the commercial history Of the country, The voyage must have been a peculiarly
interesting'one, and Mr. Houstoun had decided to take passage on board, Ellen 
Frankland went her next trip. Our stay, however, was, not long enough for us
to take advantage of , such an excellent opportunity for 
seeing the country; and when this interesting and adventurous little vessel 
tri6d,'her fate again, we were darinz the dangers of the deep on our way back to Old
England.
Captain Frankland, the owner of the steamer, assured us that the navigation was 
perfectly practicable, even to a point within a distance of sixty 
or seventy miles of the Red river. This part of the country had been lately
granted to a joint company of English and American speculators, who had already 
introduced a great number of settlers. I have heard, also, that an English company
have lately undertaken a speculation, which appears 
likely to prove not only a source of considerable profit to them. selves, but also to be in 
results extremely advantageous to the interests, of the country generally.
The intention
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GULF OF MEXICO.
iron steamers, with a very light draught up and down Trinity ; the steamers 
having flat-bottomed rafts them.,The successful result of Captain
Frankland's expedition, has proved that there do not exist Trinity river, any great or 
insurmountable impediments to navigation. This cannot be said of the 
generality of the rivers in Texas, which are shallow, and full snags and hindrances of 
all kinds. As regards its position with reference to the United States, the 
navigable the Trinity must prove of immense and incalculable benefit 
to the city of Galveston, in a commercial point of view, and the 
citizens are already anticipating e numerous advantages they are likely to
derive from discovery of this invaluable water-privilege. It i now
that a canal, connecting the Trinity with the Red River would not be by any means 
expensive. undertaking distance being about sixty miles, and the country
level. There can be no doubt that all quantity of cotton, and other produce 
grown on lands, would then be transmitted direct, by means the canal
and the Trinity river, to the town of Galveston beinLy Put on board steamers 
in the Red river being sent by a long, dangerous, and most circuitous route 
New Orleans. I fancy that the citizens enjoy not a little the idea 
of overreaching and circumventing the Americans. They are perfectly aware,
is mode of transit be established, a grand field opened to them for all sorts 
of smuggling transactions Unlawful goods will no doubt be introduced
'the United States. in sufficient quantities to supply
The Americans attach such importance to this Red river trade at the United States 
Congress has repeatedly voted sums to clear away the rafts, or wood-drifts,
stantly accumulating, and to such an extent, to put a stop navigation for, months to.
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TEXAS AND THE
the whole western country, and American produce doubtless be exported from 
Galveston by the Texans greatly to the dissatisfactio of their ci_devant countrymen
at New Orleans.
In considering the state of commerce here, there is one truth plainly evident, viz: 
that the Texans will soon monopolize the whole of the Mexican trade.
Thishashithert, been conducted by trading-parties from the United States who after 
traversing the entire extent of the Great Western, Prairies, as far as the Rocky
Mountains, meet, and transact their negotiations with the Mexican traders at Santa Fe
When it is considered, that Santa Fe is only distant from Galveston five
hundred miles, one may forn, some idea of the commercial advantages the Texans 
would possess over the Americans. The latter have, for years, found it
worth their while to pay the enormous duties charged admission of English 
cotton goods into America.' The merchandise has then been transported from
Philadelphia or New York, upwards of four thousand miles to Santa Fe, and great 
part of this distance on the backs of beasts of burden. What 
a price, the poor Mexicans must h"e paid for their purchases, to allow these
enterprisinz traders a profit, and one good enough to satisfy a Yankee calculator.
naturally have been expected, that these, signs of, the. present, and visions of 
the future, would have aroused the government to exertion, and induced them
to take somemeasures in order to render the entrance harbour dangerous. 
Nothing, however, has been done; and as long as the men in office and authority 
perceive no actual good resulting to themselves individually
from the furtherance of any, public work, they will not endeavour to forward it. , They 
are not sufficiently disinterested, to expend the, public money upon the public alone.
The harbour 'of Galveston, if properly buoyed, would be, by nomeans, a bad one. The 
entrance is perfectly: safe for vessels drawing ten feet of water, and there
am, times when ships drawing twelve, and even fourteen feet,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
venture, in. It is, without any question, the, best harbour in the Gulf of Mexico, 
and there is no doubt that other port than that of Galveston 
will ever be of any commercial importance in Texas. In the present state, I however,
of this neglected harboar, no Company either in England or America, will insure vessels bound for the port of Galveston.
had determined not to put implicit faith in the nu. merous surveys and charts of the 
different harbours lower down'- the Gulf, and had resolved, if possible, to see and
judge selves. The intention was to send the government pilot, a clever 
navigator, in his little schooner down to Matagorda, and Aransas. After ascertaining the depth of water on the several bars, we should then know
where we might venture to take the yacht, and Mr. Houstoun would possiblv have an 
opportunity of enjoying buffalo-hunting, ~ which he was very anxious to do"
Chasse in Western Texas is far superior to any that be, hoped for here; considerable 
herds of buffalo and wild horses still existing,, and deer in great numbers.
The country also, near the sea in Western Texas is described as being elevated and 
instead of being, like other parts of the country, low and almost under water, the un
oulating hills approach in the vicinity of Aransas, almost the sea-beach.
A great deal has been said about the vast extent of crime in the 
Republic of Texas If we are to believe many of the writers of the 
day, murderers are to be met every town, life is not safe for 
a moment, and I private property is never respected. The whole of the 
population' are described as dishonest and bloodthirsty; the 
very refuse of the vile. There is said to be , no law and that 
public justice is unknown. That these accusations are' almost entirely false I have no 
hesitation in asserting even by a glance at the general character of the
people, one must feel that they are undeserved.
ask, is an irresistible longing for, freedom.  mind degraded by crime Do, felons,
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TEXAS ANDVRZ~
thieves, and assassins, fight for their country as Texan, have done ?, I should say, 
certainly not; and the refilta. tion, of the charge becomes still More Clear and
positive when we recollect that it was not for pay that they fought - but that they were 
actuated by one spontaneous JIMPUI., of patriotism, and the love Of honest
independence Sound, healthy children of the God Of Heaven", they
could not submit to the degrading yoke of the Mexican. another circumstance 
which tends to give tile lie to these accusations, and to establish the fact that the
Texans are at least not worse than their neighbours, viz.
the fact of the almost non-existence of courts of law in this
country. This is nearly the only one in tile long list of accusations brought against the 
colonists in Texas in which there is truth. The rarity of the criminal acts (which I
maintain there is in this country) is rendered still more remarkable by this circumstance. Lynch law is the only description of retributive 
justice to be looked for here; and if we compare the annals of crime 
in othev countries (where men are restrained by the strong arm the law)
with the list of offences committed here, we could easily prove that the primitive 
proceedings of Texans are not productive of murders, thefts, and immoralities. 
country,where there is no police, and no executive authority, it is something to 
say,--and it may be said with truth,-that theft is almost unknown. Should such a
misdemeanour be committed, record that a Scotchman once stole a piece of 
meat from the house of a neighbour, summary justice would 
be adminis tered by the unanimous voice of the people. As to charge, so often brought against them, of shooting and stabbing, I aver, that were any 
other people possessed of the same power of killing their adversaries with impunity,
they would much more frequently avail themselves, privilege. The Texans, almost 
without exception their national weapon, the Bowie, knife alone, one would imagine
would lead t of assassinations. It is Proved, even among
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GULF OF MEXICO.
people that the use of the knife, when found conveniently hand, can hardly be resisted in moments of passionate anger, and this in a country where 
punishment is sure to low. The Texan, to a certain degree, is allowed to
take the law into his own hands; but should it pronounced by the unprejudiced 
voices of the people, that her the punishment of his enemy was undeserved, or not
Warranted by the first duty of selfpreservation, he becomes self amenable to punishment by means of lynch law that this state, of things cannot continue long, I am well ware, nor can it be doubted, that the increase of population, the
introduction of luxuries, and innumerable other causes, will
soon alter entirely the face of society. At present, however, the
Texan people go on remarkably with their primitive system of administering justice
During the months we remained in Galveston harbour, no single instance of 
malicious crime-no street fights no apparent drunkenness or tumult. It is true
that on New-Year's day, one man was shot, and doubtless to those ignorant of the 
details,,furnish a strong argument in favour of the popular opinion of prevalence 
crime in Texas. circumstances follow;-Some children were quarrelling in the street;-words they came to blows, when their respective parents  who had been
drinking togrether, thought proper "I say, sir, you call your children away,
This gentle remonstrance not being duly attended speaker went forthwith for his 
rifle., and was in the act presenting it at the head of his foe (probably only
as a means of intimidation) when received his death-Wound from the other's 
pistol. No notice whatever was of this misdemeanour
Two well-known German noblemen, sent out by their government report on the condition of Texas and its advantages as a field for emigration, were travelling
rough the country at the same time as ourselves, have given it as their opinion, 
that considering state of the laws, no country was ever so free from
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TF-XAS AND THE
crime as this. The case of manslaughter I have related perpetrated on a day of 
public rejoicing and misrule. the parties had been drinking at one of the numerou'
bars,; their passions were excited, and the whole affair work of a moment- It is 
due to the survivor to add thal the children of the deceased were received and
provided for ky him in the most liberal manner he could afford.
I have asserted that the Texans are willing (beyond most other people) to assist each 
other ; at the same tirne I wish not to affirm that the person who 
ewifers the benefit will not expect a quidpro quo in some shape or other. a society
such as this, where 11 taking your neighbour in" is called smartness, and inveigling him out of some Por. tion of his lawful property, goes by the 
gentle name of shaving" him, one must not expect to niect with much delicacy in the
arrangement of accounts between man and man. As a proof,
however, of the rarity of theft, houses containing valuable property are left 
untenanted and unsecured, and this without any fear of their being entered by a marauder.
As the city increases in size and importance, there will doubtless be more law, more 
justice, and more- crime. Atpresent, in this sniall community, the eyes of each man 
art, on his neighbour; they unite for their common security, and the
rowdy fellow (anglice scamp) is hold in cheek by the, consciousness, that should he 
offend, and shock the,prejudices of society, tarring and feathering would
be,his,portion.
I never heard of Texan heads being submitted to the examination of a professor of 
phrenology, but I should imagine that, the bump of invention would be found largely
developed. A man will inform you, gravest face in the world, has seen in the 
prairie a buffalo weighing two thousand stone! and another, that 
he has met a Comanche coming,, home from market to his wife with the legs and arms, of human beings slung over his shoulders, to dress for supper
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61ULF OF MEXICO.
when two Texan gentlemen are engaged in a, dispute; violent discussion, 
the courtesy of the sir is omitted. On the contrary it is every third word, and 
mixed up as it is the oaths and denunciations, with which they always
their discourse, the effect is curious enough. They end their anecdotes 
with 4 and that's a fact, sir, by G--," Pronounced with energy. The manner it
describe, but the more unfathomable would be in vain to the falsehood, the greater is 
the energy they employ in the utterance of these expressive Seeing,the giraffe
ahead', is one of their singular but every. day expressions. acute Kentucky man giving 
an account o Mr. Houstoun of a speculation in which lie engaged, and speaking (of
course with the nasal twang) of a sniart Yankee, who was plotting against him, and 
whose designs he had detected, I stopt there sir-1 went no further- giraffe ahead." 
The origin ofthis quaint  expression was not able to discover, but they understand
one so perfectly, their crooked ways and their turnings and windings, that 
it is really amusing, to watch of a game played between two able combatants
I have often thought, however, that they are apt to overreach themselves 
by too much cunning. Every thought and every idea here resolves itself into money	In their getting up, and lying dow n, in their eating drinking, and sleeping, 
moments, in the home of their wives and children and in the bar-room of the drinking
houses,-~-dollars, and how to obtain thein, seems their one engrossing thought. 
Wbether or not they are atto their kindred, I cannot say, but certainly, to
judge very little time, they seem to spend in bosom of their families," domestic life can 
have but charms for them.
Texan ladies generally, I fancy, lead rather quiet lives, and are reserved and silent.
society of Galveston invited us to a ball, at the 
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I TEXAS AND THE
Tremont House, and I greatly regretted not being civility, but the weather was 
extremely cold, -and the return to the yacht at night neither safe
a lady. Were I asked what is the national religion Of the Texan people answer none
it, is true the places of public worship are niore than sufficient, an&_that, every 
one attends the service, on Sunday, and"thit the religious observance of
the Sabbath is not more neglected than it is in catholic countries in Europe. On the 
other hand, the feeling of devotion, and the respectful upholding of religion is
apparently. absent; I may wrong them, and I trust I do but I judge from their 
conversation, from the education of 'their children, and little from their constant
habit of profane swearing. This renders the society of Americans generally extremely 
painful to those who are,accustomed to treat the sacred name of the Deity
with awe and respect. It is very distressing to hear little children practising their 
first powers, of utterance in mocking their Creator, and older boys, in almost every
class, vying with each other in taking his name in vain,
CHAPTER XIX.
Sufferings of emigrants-Texas an advantageous field settlers-Clirnate-Productions of 
the country-Disadvantages.
Yes Lhav~ loved thy wild abode, Unknown, unploughed, untrodden shore;
Where scarce the woodman finds a road, And scarce the fisher plies an oar. CAMPBELL.
WAS sorry to hear from, Monsieur de, C_ that the French emigrants, who arrived. at 
Galveston' during our former visit, were not, is we . had supposed, sent out by
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the French government, but by one of their speculating countrymen, and that they had 
already suffered considerably, from various unanticipated causes. In
transporting so large a,body of emigrants through the country, arrangements ought to 
have been made for their support, and to defray the necessary expenses of the
journey. confess I cannot but regret that sonic thousands of our
starving population cannot be conveyed to this country.The 
colonization of New South Wales and New Zealand is doubtless advantageous to Great Britain, and certain speculative compamies may derive benefit frorn it; but,it
may be questioned if the same good fortune generally attends the poor colonists. In 
the latter colony, (New Zealand,) we have lately had a sad proof that the
hardships and sufferings of the settlers are not of a trivial nature ; and that the 
difficulties with which these people have to contend, are not merely 
confined to the severe labour of hewing down the giant trees of the forest, and to
the slow and wearying process of clearing land.* The circumstance to which I allude, 
is the melancholy fate of Captain Wakefield and his companions, who were not long
ago destroyed by the aborigines of the country.
It cannot be denied, that as a field for settlers, Texas considerable advantages over 
almost every other country.Its climate, except the lowland is excellent, and the
settler has to encounter neither the extreme cold of the winter season, nor the scorching summerheat of the more Northern States of America 
and Canada. In the latter countries, also, the settler labours under the im
disadvantage of having to clear his land of the primeval woods, before be can 
hope to establish any thing like a farm. This is labour which he is spared in
Texas, where the vast and productive prairies need but improvement at the hands of the agriculturist, As New Zealand Company sell their land thirty shillings acre.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
'TiXAS AND THE
compared with New South Wales and New Zealand Texas has neither the'poor 
soil, and drowth former, nor the high-priced and thickly-wooded lands latter. Texas is 
within a month's or at outside six weeks' journey of England; and by passing
United States,, it may even be accomPlished twenty-four days difficulty. despicable advantage.
believe that the accounts generally given of the productiveness of the soil in 
Texas, are not exaggerated its climate, also, in the rolling country, at a distance 
of 'seventy or eighty miles from the sea, is no doubt extremely healthy, perhaps as much so as any in world; it is also comparatively free from musquitoes
other reptiles. The lowlands, however, between rolling country sea, are, from all we 
cou d learn scarcely habitable for Europeans. We certainly saw 
fw Germans, who had been settled on the banks Of Brazos, in the low country, for 
five years, but repeatedly suffered from fevers, though they certain extent acclimatized. 
more miserable objects I never beheld. Another evil scarcely less to be dreaded 
than the fever, consi myriads of musquitoes, which are so venomous a
troublesome as to render existence hardl We were only in Texas in the 
winter season therefore,'happily no opportunity of judging persons, of the extent of the 
nuisance. doubt that this low country, whose soil, unequalled in richness, can only 
be inhabited by people from the Southern States of America, Louisiana, 
Mississippi, &c. The inhabitants of those provinces have used, to even more , unhealthy situations than the Texas lowlands, and without the 
benefit of I the constant sea breeze, or trade wind, which blows over thcjitter. It 
haA' I believe, ~ bee"'asserted, that the productions of this part of Texas e6i'll"',
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GULF OF MEXICO.
lit forth by slave or black. labour alone. This, may be disputed. now endeavour to give 
some account of,the productions Of the country, which are, I should say,
ar'~tiired by less labour than is perhaps necessary in' any part of the globe. This 
arises from the circumstance of the prairie being, as one may say, already half
cultivated nature. It is, generally speaking, perfectly level, and no trees or shrubs 
interfere with the, course of plough the spade of the agriculturist. The soil is
great depth, and not a stone or even pebble can,be discovered on turning up the 
earth. In the low country, cotton, sugar, and tobacco will be the great staples ; and,
",:,it,is said, their quality is equal to the best that can be produced in any other climate. 
In the rolling district. cotton, indigo, rice, wheat, rye, barley, oats, and ali
the common vegetables of our own country, grow with wonderful luxuriance. Wheat, it 
is supposed, will come to I greater perfection in the more hilly and less fertile
district further to the north. Here, also, the apple and pear trees would doubtless 
thrive and produce abundantly ; but the climate of the southern portion of Texas
is said to be too warm to permit the inhabitants to enjoy these fruits in perfection. 
Indigo, and that of a very fine quality, is found growing wild in various parts of the
country; grapes, peaches, and plums seem indigenous, found growing wild in 
the woods. There can be no doubt, indeed, that the soil 
and climate are calculated to produce most of our English fruits in the greatest
abundance in addition to them, many of those found in inore southern climes. 
The prairie lands every afford the very finest pasture, and cannot be 
surpassed for grazing purposes. So luxuriant is the growth kind herbage, that 
throughout the year, cattle, grazing in the open country, are genera y oun,d
in excellent condition ; and all the care that is, req*red in rearing stock, is easily 
obtained by employing a Mexican or two as herdsmen, an occupation for which
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TEXAS AND THE
they :1 ire admirably fitted, and which they are said to fulfill with fidelity.  
Texas, the price of ox cow calf was five dollars, about a pound sterling, dollar being 
valued at from forty-eight to fifty.two pence. Horses, and mules could be bought at
thirty to fifty dollars ; and whilst we were at Houston hundred pigs -were sold at a 
halfpenny per pound weight mildness of the climate, and fact being subject 
to the extremes Of heat and cold, is very favourable to the increase of stock, poultry,
&c. One of the most experienced and sagacious men in country was opinion,
no speculation would answer so well in Texas as the breeding of sheep; not
only on account of the increasing demand for wool in the United States, but also to supply the wants of the settlers I . And now having.detailed many of 
the temptations offered to European emigrants, I feel bound to mention what
seems to me the disadvantages attending the settling in Texas. first and most 
apparent of thern, is the difficulty of purchasing land with a good title. It was
the opinion of some of the  cleverefit lawyers in Texas, titles to three-fourths 
of the 11 located" lands in Texas were of a doubtful character; not perhaps abso.
lutely invalid, but admitting of a lawsuit, I dare attorneys themselves are 
generally too glad to undertake any case, for a chance of a share in the spoil, which,
here, as in more civilized countries, is by no means inconsiderable; Wood, in many parts of the country, very abundant; but I suspect that, as population increases,
there will be found very frequently a want of:,~:", this essential. Supposing the settler 
to have acquired his land in a healthy and desirable position, have made all his
arrangements necessary for farming, &c.,: he will constantly be required, in his 
intercourse with his neighbours, (if, as is most probable, they happen to
Yankees,) to practise a degree of ingenuity and cunning in trading transactions,
which,,, I believe, few of our countrymen can boast. I heard, that owing to this
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GULF OF MEXICO.
in the art of 11 shaving," nine times out of ten, an English settler had done 
business with a Yankee the substance of the confiding John Bull had
ually diminished, until at length, his whole means their way into the 
Possession of his more but less scrupulous, neighbour. Many I , the
extremely low price of land, have been choose , locations"' far removed from the
civilized beings; and not a few, in all pro have built their houses as 
near the river as possible. Here, after a time, if the settler escapes the fever
ague, he most likely finds himself unable to endure the utter loneliness and 
solitude of his position, together with the hardships and deprivations necessarily 
attendant upon such a residence in the wilderness. His house is abandoned, and either falls into decay, or is destroyed by the bands of roving Indians, who are not very 
scru,Oous in regard to any flocks or herds they may chance to find unprotected. But it 
may be asked, how are these to be provided against ? I should say, easily enough.
the first place, settlers should be gregarious; companionship lightens toil, and promotes a spirit of emul more necessary for our countrymen in they should 
settle in herds, because they defect in their character, which stands
of their success as settlers. This defect is our middle and lower classes, 
and is not found Americans. The fault of which I speak, is difficulty they find in 
adapting themselves to occupations to which they have been unaccustomed.
ploughman is a ploughman only; he cannot use the axe fence, or perform the 
commonest carpenter's work carpenter, on the other hand, would be sadly to use 
the plough or spade; and so, in like with alL, The American settler hand 
to any thing~ and no kind of work comes amiss, to him. finding fault Yankee 
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TMAS AND THE
neighbour, I believe this may also he said 'of him,,that although, he is always an the 
look-out for a good thing, and would do his utmost to overreach his, neigbbour, in'
-what he considers fair trade, yet he will genemll found kindhearted, ~ goodnatured, 
and Willing both to assist and, lend, if req, This I fancy is case, early' settlers, 
in a young country lik6, this "I I c I 6u I iA find, mai~Aiy more arguments to prove 
thit, English emigrants should only go to Texas in bodies, and
then not without some one capable of directing them; but that I think the fact must be 
self-evident.
CHAPTER XX.
Patience and perseverance indispensable to a settler in a new country- Story of a young emigrant's sufferings. Her's was the brow, in trials unperplexed, That
cheer'd the sad, tranquillized the vex7d.
Young, innocent, on whose sweet forehead mild The parted ringlet shone in 
simplest guise. He was her only child. CAMPBELL.
No, settler in a new, country should enter upon his vocation
without having on hand in immense  stock of perseverance Patience, under sickness and distress, is aw another. invaluable quality, the exercise often called 
for in the life of. an emigrant. Let no ~ one" expect that his bed in
the wilderness will be one of roses,,~j the charms of, ~bis wild
life will, on the contrary, often varied by contretemps and hardships description
I was much interested by an account I heard of young emigrant, who, in~ the outset of 
his career, afforded proof of the truth of my remarks 
This settler was a young Scotchman, who'having saved few hundred pounds, and seeing no 6 openini'l in hW
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GULF OF MEXICO.
own country, decided upon trying his fortune in the plains and prairies Texas. His 
knowledge consisted of some practical information on agricultural 
subjects, and on the price of stock, in England, and, in short, of 
farming details whiah apply exclusively to practice in the It Old Country
M,Leod, for so I will call him, had married. a pretty Irish girl, tolerable connexions 
good education. She possessed, withal, a light heart and a happy temperno trifling
recommendations for domestic life in the wilderness. Land, as I
have elsewhere observed, is temptingly cheap far up the country; so the Scotchman 
easily made a purchase of a considerable tract; and he and his young wife, with a little
helpless child, travelled by slow degrees, but cheerfully and full
of hope, towards the rolling country above Washington. long in their new 
abode, when they discovered that the location was ill chosen. They had built their 
log house in a hollow, instead of on rising ground,which is every,%-here
at something less than a mile distant from the river, it was therefore damp and unwholesome. In short, the MLeods, like many other settlers, had rashly followed
tI eir own ideas, and neglected to ask the advice of experienced dwellers country. 
consequences of this imprudence soon made themselves apparent; 
and in a short time M,Leod was stretched upon his bed low lingering fever. Nora's
helpfulness was now of essential service. Strong in body, with
hardy peasant nerves, and a genuine Irish spirit of good humour trustingness,  nursed her sick husband, milked the cows, tended,the house, took care baby.
Fortunately, in this rich soil and land of prolific produce, the means of existence were 
easily procured,, at least for a season. Nora's stock of poultry was not easily exhausted, for the domestic fowls breed and rear their young much more
frequently than in most, other coun. Of the pigs, animals, the same may be 
averred; and thus Nora and her little family 
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TEXAS AND THE
continued, to live on. But M,Leod's was not a temporary malady week after week 
sped by, and he lay there still a useless, powerless man nature complaint 
spirits~, and he seemed fast sinking into a state of helpless despondency. 
In vain did Nora, with er bright face, and cheerful voice, slightly indicative Of
Hibernian origin, endeavour to console him. When sick man in - duigged 
in sad prophecies of the poverty 	which,he insisted would ere long come upon them, Nora would gaily repeat to him the Irish proverb, " Cheer up, darling, there's a silver 
lining to every cloud.', But they could not live upon smilescheering words; 
proverbs, however true, are as unprofitable as they are stale By degrees their 
live-stock diminished; Borne strayed, others were shot by some wandering riflemen
a few fell sick, and a. tribe of Indians, who were encamped near, did not scruple to lay 
their hands upon such as within their reach. Happily for Nora, these Indians be.
longed to a friendly tribe, otherwise her fear of them would have been still greater 
than it was. She could not accustom herself to their wild and savage appearance,
and the dread seemed mutual, for the Indians seldom approached the abode of the 
white man. M,Leod had sunk a considerable portion of is little fortune in the
purchase ofland, stock, trusting to his own industry exertions for the future 
support of his family. After a time, then, the destitution which the sick imagination
of the -poor' Scotchman had so long anticipated stared them in the face.  wife, 
notwithstanding her hopeful spirit, began'to, despond; husband's health grew
daily worse. The feeling of sadness and gloom new and unaccustomed one to 
Nora; so new, that at first the. unwelcome tenant could find no abiding-place in her
heart. She was determined, however, to hope, though she saw her husband's face grow paler and thinner day by day; and she would obstinately look forward to better
times, though their supply even of daily food was fast dwindling away, and thouzh she 
saw no Present meaM
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GVLF OF MEXICO.
relief fr in their present distresses. Nora ceased exert herself support of those 
she loved. Night day she toiled; the garden was dug, future wants, was sown and 
planted by her hand. neighbours she had none; alone in her troubles 
a friend to assist, or to advise. Notwithstanding :all Nora still talked 
hopefully, still boasted of the silver which was to shine out of the dark cloud 
~vered over their destinies; but her heart was heavy within her, and her bright eyes 
were often dimmed with tears.
It was winter, and heavy rains had deluged country, log house of the M'Leods was 
surrounded 1171, mud and wet grass; and when, one cold bleak morning, Nora
opened her door, and gazed toy a moment, ~"'ahroad, gloomy prospect struck chill 
into her heart., A,, keen northerly wind was blowing fierce and strong; 4t howling
through the trees, and scattering the fallen leaves into her face. Nora had 
not been in bed during ,4hd previous night; alarm for her husband, and the care his
illness momentarily required, had iffbided employment mind and body. 
sudden she heard his voice calling her name. It appeared that he spoke in a stronger 
tone, and she hastened t6 -his bedside ftill of hope. Alas for her. She saw
eye lighted up by delirious fever, and to her terror, perceived that reason had 
deserted its throne! With the strength lent by the fierce fever that raged
his, veins, he raised himself fromhis bed, and was difficulty restrained from 
rushing towards the door. actions were A violent, and he heaped bitter
impreca upon her, and"upon his child. At this moment a sound full of 
horror struck upon the mother's ear. There was a sudden shriek, fearful
shouts of fifty savage voices burst loudly, forth startling the echoes for 
miles around. did Nora recognise the feeble cry she heard. ~ It was
"ilie voice of her little Jamie who had been playing in the
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~TEXAS AND THE
garden, in unconscious glee Quicker than thought, she Sprang to the door, and gazed 
distractedly on the scene fine, before her. Her darling hands Of the Indians
Of Indians, too, whose aspect was totally unknown her. moment she guessed 
the truth, and that the dreaded Comanchees were upon them! In vain she 
free him; in vain did the child hold up his little hands, and implore help 
from her, who never Yet had been deaf to his prayers. Amidst the stunning: sound,
of the terrible war-whoop, the petted child was held up before his mother's eyes, and 
while she was forcibly held back,, the scalping-knife did its revolting, office!
The, bright sunny curls were hung at the belt of the savage who performed the deed, 
while the boy was flung palpitating, and barely possessed of life at feet
Of his parent. It was now Nora's turn to suffer, and another of these
relentless savages speedily seized hold of his now unresisting victim. Another moment would have decided her fate, when the arm of her enemy was arrested by, the appearance of a new actor on the scene; a gaunt form who, (without any previous 
warning) approached the group, and attracted the attention of all.
It was M'Leod, whose wild ravings could not be restrained, and who with delirious 
unconsciousness of his danger, stalked in amongst them. His wild actions, and,
strange gestures sufficiently attested the wandering of his
mind and the Indians stood appalled. Tall warriors in, their, fierce war-paint bent 
their heads reverently before him; and impressed with the notion of his being
inspired, and acting under the especial protection of the Great Spirit, these untamed and revengeful children of the forest shrank awe,struck from his presence.
Slowly and in silence they retreated, and ere another minute had elapsed, Nora was left alone with the husband, who had so unconsciously saved her.
On the ground, on the very spot, where he had played in childish'.glee, lay, 
the bleeding body of,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
child. Who can describe the feelings of the mother as lifting him in her arms, she 
tried to hope that he had undergone would mortal Gently and tenderly she laid him 
on his little bedand then, and not till then did she return to tier painful
task of soothing and quieting the invalid. With she persuaded him to return 
to his bed, but could not leave him for~a moment. she heard the faint and feeble 
moan of her suffering child, but though mother's heart was torn
could not desert her post. Towards the evening sick man became more composed, 
his ravings ceased, his eyes closed, deathlike calm over his features. Nora listened, 
but in- vain for his breathing, she felt that he was dead, and that she was alone;
did not weep, however, but sat in a state of stupid nsibility. She was roused from 
this trance of despair, Ya sound, small and low; but one which heard, ran never
f(orgotten,-the last sound of parting breath ! It was 11, and low, for it was the 
breath of a little child that its pure and innocent spirit was about to God! In a
moment Nora was by its side, on knees imploring with wild eagerness for its young
OAU,fe, and covering its little hands, and face with kisses. The struggle was 
brief, andwhen the mother saw that it dead she fell senseless. She 
recovered, she knew not it seemed as though a fearful dream had passed
Oh that sad and terrible awakening after affliction! The doabt-the fear of 
the reality-and then 
fear such, instances of savage atrocity were not rare the earlier settlers; on the 
Mexican frontier espe and on, the northern settlements, where the cruel
'of the Comanchees have so much power, such horrid matter of history. Cases 
have been known of recovery after scalping, I myself saw a young man at
Galveston who did not appear at all the worse for,the
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TEXAS AND THIC
the gradual, and overwhelming belief in the worst! poor Nora felt all this, as gradually 
she roused herself int, sense and life. it was all true-her child, her first her only
one was taken from her. She could not weep Whers was hard tearless grief On a 
sudden, however, the thought of her husband crossed her mind, and a dim recollection of his last sad moments caused her to shudder as though
body and soul were parting asunder. Tqe. chanically she rose, and approaching his 
bed, leant over what she imagined the senseless clay of him she loved. Her head
rested on his breast, when she thought'-lould it, be,fancy? that it throbbed slightly 
and feebly. Breath. lessly she listened. It was no delusion-he, wasalive! Death had
not claimed his prey, and he might yet recover, Poor Nora! The eyes which were dry 
when heavy affliction struck her, overflowed in salutary drops under
the sudden influence of joy. Her first impulse was one of deep and overpowering 
gratitude; but her thankfulness was, like her grief, silent 
and subdued, She sat down beside the bed, and patiently awaited till he should
4wake. For several hours did she watch, by her husband's side, and morning was 
again stealing over sky when lie awoke, and in feeble accents, whispered her
name; his reason was restored, and Nora felt that all danger was over. Hours sped 
by-hours spent prese by the grateful wife in ministering to his recovery. He was weak as an infant, and she dared not tell him of their loss, and that 
their child lay near thenl,,a lifeless corpse.
The next day, after Nora had as usual been addressing words of 
encouragement to her patient, and carefully concealing frornhim her own deep
distresses, she was startled by hearing horses footsteps approaching their
In a few minutes, a man on, horseback stopped at the door, ceremony 
entered the house. Xora did not rise, for tile hand of her sleeping husband was
clasped in hers, while silent tears chased each, other doher pale cheeks. Her baby lay unburied near, and for
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GULF OF MEXICO.
husband, where was she to find the means 'of cruitiP9 his exhausted 
strength? She had had but little food for many days, and how could she seek for
raised her head when the, stranger entered, wag she with these 
melancholy reflections. traveller unconscio"S of her sorrows, addressed her
cheerful, hearty voice, , Good morning, marm how,s your man?  Ill
doubt-these here diggins wholesome any how-l reckon." Saying this, the 
stranger, who was a portly man of respectable appear. nee, seated
himself without ceremony in the chimney~ corner. Shelter is never refused 
prairie, and to that lie was welcome; gladly also would Nora have set 
food in plenty before her guest. Slie gave him, however, of that which she had, and the 
stranger soon learned the almost destitute condition, of his young hostess.
The traveller possessed a kind and friendly heart, and a well-filled purse  
the appearance of the young settlers, and admiring the order and cleanliness of their 
cottage, he pitied their misfortunes, and hastened to procure necessaries
and comforts for the desolate inhabitants of the watery prairie. 
Having then cheered the sufferers with words, of hope, and seen the remains Of tile 
dead infant decently interred, he left them, promising to return. Two more weeks sped 
by--M,,Leod had,left his bed, and sat weak and trembling by the fire, while
Nora, though her thoughts often wandered to the grave of her
child, looked at him with eyes full of gratitude and happiness. talk was kind 
stranger, and of their hope that he would soon return. soon after this, they again 
saw his benevolent countenance, and heard his loud hearty greeting, what joy was 
thedrs. The stranger was a rich landholder and cotton-grower, and bein,
in want of an overseer on whom he could depend, fixed upon M'Leod to fill 
the office. He gave his, pro house, located in a healthy clearing, not 
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TEXAS AND THE
many miles distant from their own property. to be a man having authority, 
where withal to live in comfort and content. When Nora entered her new habitation, 
leaning on her husband', arm she looked up in his face,  Jamie," she and
didInt I tell you there was a silver lining to ejery cloud."
CHAPTER XXI.
Abundance of game-Severe northers peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico.-Gradual 
encroachment of land upon the sea Heavy swell on the bar-Different classes of 
titles to land Texas peculiarly adapted for breeding stock. Has heaven reserv'd, in pity 
to the poor, No pathless waste, or undiscover'd shore? No secret island in 
the boundless main? No peaceful desert yet unclaim'd by Spain? JOHNSON.
few weeks difference the aspect of the country. The prairie was already be.
grinning to put on its summer mantle of flowers, ana immense flocks of migratory 
birds were darkening the air: wild-fowl also, and all kinds of game, were in much
greater abundance than when we were here last, Mr. Houstoun was delighted with 
the snipe-shooting, and he was tolerably successful, frequently killing ten couple 
in an hour. He was also fortunate enough to kill a very rare bird in the country, called 
by the inhabitants the Sand-Hill crane, which resembles the bustard very muck both
in appearance and in flavour, but is considerably larger. The Sand-Hill cranes are very 
difficult to ap. proach and only appear after two or three days of severe northers.
These northers being peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico, I must endeavour to describe 
them. They most frequently
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GULF OF MEXICO.
occur after a few days of damp dull weather, and generally about once a fortnight. 
Their approach is known by a dark bank rising on the horizon, and gradually over.
spreadin, the heavens. The storm bursts forth with wonderf~l suddenness and 
tremendous violence, and generally 1-ts forty-eight hours; the wind after that
period und to the east and southward, and the storm abates. During the 
continuance of a norther, gradually the cold is intense, wind so penetrating, it is
allnost impossible to keep oneself warm. The weather is clear, and frequently the 
northers are almost unaccompanied by rain. The tremendous hurricane that
occurred last September, as it was described to us, is calculated to give one the 
impression that on some future day the flourishing city of Galveston may be swept away by the overwhelming incursions of the sea. On the occasion I have alluded to, such was the force of the winds and waves, that many houses were turned topsy turvy,
and some were floated many hundred yards from their original position. The greater 
part of the island was also under water for many days, and boats wgre in re.
quest to go from one house to another. ' Such a storm as this, however, had never 
occurred before in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, arid some fishermen who had
been resident there more than twenty years, asserted that
their previous experience presented no parallel for such a destructive hurricane. 
stronger argument in faxonr of the city never being entirely submerged, 
the accumulation of sand, which forms the island, continues increasing, while it is 
proved beyond a doubt that land is every where encroaching on the Gulf of
Mexico. We saw an excellent old Spanish chart of the coast, which was made sixty or 
seventy years ago, and on comparing it with our own we found it on all im
portant points remarkably accurate. The island of Galveston, aver, is there 
represented as much'smaRer than, it ig'-At, present, and Pelican 
Island (a large sand bank in the middle of the bay) is entirely omitted.
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TEXAS AND THE
There. can be little doubt, from the omission of Pelican island in thechart I have 
referred to, and also from the, manner in which known increase in size, that half 
a century ago~o it was not in existence. This would lead supposition that the. 
harbour is gradually filling up, but it is conjectured by many that as 
its limits decrease, the channel, probably formed by Trinity river, will become 
deeper. The bar at its entrance is said to remain exactly Same, though
tile depth of water on it varies considerably according wind.. after several days 
of very strong southerly winds, there is frequently as much as 
fifteen feet of water, and the depth, throughout the bay, even tip the river, is in. 
creased several feet. Vessels,however, cannot take advantage of this
circumstance during the continuamce of tile southerly winds
owing to the extremely heavy swell on the bar, which, greater depth of the water, 
materially increases the chance of a vessel's ,, bumping;" a term the
Americans use for touching on the sand-banks, and they seem
to think nothing of it. It is no uncommon practice to make the crew and passengers keep constantly moving in line, from one side of tilt d,eck to the other, when there is not sufficient water to pass a bar without "rolling over" as this 
proceeding is called. We ourselves oil one occasion assisted at a 
ceremony of this kind in a steamer.
best period for entering the harbour at Galveston is after a southerly wind has 
been blowing pretty, fresh for some, days, and is then succeeded 
by a norther. Ad. vantage should be taken, at the Yery commencement of the gale, 
to pass the bar (as vessels may lay over the bar with a northerly wind) or,
otherwise, one, may almost say, the whole of the available water
is blown out of the bay, and thus the depth on the bar is perhaps reduced to less 
than nine feet. One of tile evils, arishl,,,,from the hitherto unsettled state of the 
country, seems to be, that the people, instead of attending to their domestic 
affairs and agricultural pursuits, have occupied themselves (for want , of
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GULF OF MEXICO.
better employment) in making a superabundance of laws, acts of Congress.* There 
are, I do not 'know how Inany of these volumes already published, and many of them 
are so contradictory, and admit of so many interpretations, that it is to
be presumed the Texan lawyers will never want business. great proportion of these 
acts of Congress relate to the land-laws.
ASA hav~ before mentioned the difficulty in getting good, titles to land in Texas, I 
shall endeavour to givesome account of the different descriptions of titles. There are of course various opinions on the subject,and  I can therefore only give my own,
grounded upon information received from those whom we considered the best 
authorities.
The first titles I shall mention are those emanating from the Mexican government; many of these are uncon. ditional and indisputable, and are undoubtedly the best that 
can be found; there are, however, others, originatinjg from the same source, but
which are generally considered totally invalid, certain conditions having been 
attached to the grant, which were never fulfilled by the grantee, but this has not prevented many from setting tip claims on the strength of these impresario or contract
grants.
 The second class of titles are those emanating front the government of the Republic 
of Texas: of these thereare various kinds, and they seem to have been granted so 
incautiously, and to have offered at the same time so tuany facilities 
for fraud and deception that at present it is almost impossible to pronounce
any particular one of these titles to be good or bad; that is to say if it has not been also 
patented by government. - I shall di - vide the titles emanating from the Republic of
Texas into four classes.
First. Those titles granted to all who arrived in the country
previous to the Declaration of Independence.
The evils of. too much legislation are also United States-Editor.
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second. Titles granted to those who were actually present in Texas, at the 
Declaration of Independence, who took part in the campaign of 1836.
Third. Ti s, the headrights of colonists who have arrived"in the country, and 
have beconie citizens at various periods, since the Declaration of Independence.
fourth. 'Titles created by the issuing of Government scrip.
Of these four classes of Texas titles, the first is probably the best, as it 
is the earliest in date. With regard to the second class, it is only necessary to say,
that within a very short period, fifteen thousand individuals had each 
claiined, and taken possession of his league of land, which, by the Act of Congress, 
every person who participated in the struggle for independence, was entitled 
to. Now it I*s well known that,.at the period,alluded. to, there certainly not
five thousand fighting inen in the whole country; and the fact was, that 
thousands of adventurers had himieldiately after the act was passed, flocked in 
from the' United States, secured titles to land under false pleas, and forthwith 
returned to America. This was easily effected by representing themselves as 
having been long in the country, and in the confusion which prevailed moment, 
the imposition could not be detected. commission was, subsequently appointed
by government for the purpose of inquiring into the validity of these titles, 
and their number was soon reduced froya fifteen thousand to five thousand. 
Those, Whose clainis were approved of, received 'patents for their land; bat the 
remaining ten thousand titles were pronounced utterly fraudulent. It i's 
notorious, that many of these forged titles to land in Texas, still continue to be
sold in the United States.
The third and fourth classes of titles niay both be.considered good, if the 
original possessor was undoubtedly the first to 1 locate on," register the lands 
selected. There is a land-office for this purpose in each district,
bat from the careless and informal manner in Which the'regis.' ters have 
sometimes been kept, and also fromthe frequent
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TEXAS AND THE GULF OF MEXICO.'
surveyors, I am informed, that it has often. hap all possible precautions, that 
same land has been surveyed, and what is called located," two three claimants, one 
after another. If the titles, r, be patented by the government, these. accidents
ot likely, to occur. To account also, numerous disputes concerning titles 
to land Texas, I must observe, that in a country so ill surveyed, so
deficient in landmarks, (particularly if ,shonest,) it is not always an easy matter to
er the exact position of the estate which is indicated 
the title you have purchased; and it is by no means you may 11 squat" on some 
other person's domain, your own being perhaps some miles distant.
owner of the land you have thus unwittingly resident at New York, and 
does fit to acquaint you with your mistake, till you 4ilt a house, &c., or perhaps laid 
out" the plan of a city The latter proceeding being already as common in as it is in the 
United States. 
have now endeavoured to explain the difficulties vvhich exist, in regard to procuring 
titles to land in this country . Many such as I have described may, be pur
all over the United States, and even in London, in what I could learn, all such should 
be abstained it must not, however, be supposed that good and 
titles to land are unattainable. On the contrary, oper care and caution, they may be 
obtained in ry, with a good government patent, and right. I believe, too, that the 
money paid will compared with that which would be expended
e same purpose any where else in the world. It to be remembered, among its other 
advantages. that Texas prise4 an 'extent of country as large as France,
and tbit,hzilf its lands are still unappropriated. One of evils attendant on settling in 
Texas, at,least one that It has' been, accused of, is aliens" cannot hold land
Texas. In regard I Ao some land-titles. this is certainly
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TEXAS AND THE
true; but the difficulty may be entirely obviated by a foreigner spending six 
months in the country. This trifling expenditure of time, which may be very usefully
em. ployed, confers the right of citizenship, and enables stranger to hold land on 
the same footing as the Texan it Should also be added, that in the case of an 
alien holding land, the only party proceeding against him would be
the government; and such an opponent has so rarely started up in any country, 
that not much fear need be entertained on that score. Apparently no country can be
more admirably adapted for breeding purposes, in the case Of mules and horses, 
and it is supposed that it would be an extremely good speculation to export the 
latter from Texas, where they may be bought for thirty dollars, to Havanna, where their 
price is from two hundred and fifty to five hundred dollars. The passage thither
occupies about four or five days ; and there is but little question, ,that if the 
spanish government were so far to overcome its feelings against Mexico, as to 
acknowledge the independence of Texas, Cuba would become a
great market for Texan produce of every kind.
cHAPTER XXII
History and -character of General Houston, President of Texas -Run for the 
presidency-Whittling-Discomfort of travelling in Texas. For forms government let fools
contest Whate'er is best admin ister'd is best; For modes of faith, let 
graceless zealots fight; ,His can't be wrong whose life is in the right; In faith and, 
hope the,world will disagree But all mankind's concern is charity;
And all must be false that thwarts this one great end; And all of God, 
that,bless mankind, or mend. POPE.
As we intend shortly making an excursion up the country, and if possible 
paying our respects to the celebrated 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
President, General Houston, I think that a Short account of the history and character of the latter may not be unacceptable. Of the talents of this remarkable 
man, there can, and does, exist but one opinion ; but there is, nevertheless, a strong party against him. From the want of other objects to occupy their time and
attention, a large proportion of the people amuse themselves by
abusing him, both in his public and private capacity. The impossibility of a governor 
country pleasing and satisfying all parties, is every where acknowledged;  want 
national funds under which the republic at pre. sent labours, increases difficulty. 
Every'instance of adversity, and every deficiency of dollars, is attributed at once to the 
Presidents mismanagement or cupidity. The latter charge is so strange, and
so utterly unfounded, that it finds but few believers. There are 
several other causes of complaint against him. The principal one
is, his avowed dislike to going to war, which, In comnloll with
all people who have but little to lose, is a favouTite pastime with
the Texans. The advice of the President to his countrymen, stay
at home, gentlemen, look after your flocks and herds, and sow 
corn,"-meets with but little sympathy from his fellow-citizens. Another cause of his 
unpopularity with the fighting party, is his opposition to the existence of 
a navy in Texas ; the President contending, that they have no use for ships,  
support of a navy is a; useless incumbrance to the republic. American
sympathizers and 10afeTs are objects of his especial enmity. and
with reason, for no persons are so much to be feared. They are
People who go about in search of promiscaous pjunder, matters nothing whether 
friend or enemy falls a victim to their rapacity. If nothing is,to 
be made of the Mexicans, they turn upon the Texans, in search 'of prey.
It is well1nown that the Mexicans, in general, well-disposed towards Santa Anna, 
whose military' despotisrn ig, ill-cilculated to conciliate their regard; and it is not, diffi~ult o,believe,that were they left to themselves,
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TEXAS AND THE
they would be friendly towards the Texans, As a proof 'of this, in',the late campaign 
on the frontier, most Cner.getic proo " dedings-, conducted with beautiful 
military skill, were ma& by the Texans for the attack of Mier. Fire.
eating parti I es of warlike citizens, armed and caparisoned,
advanced simultaneously at three different points attack, resolved to conquer or to 
die. What was their surprise'to find that they had wasted all this valuable energy
and courage without necessity. No opposition was made by the Mexicans to their 
entrance, but or, the contrary, they were received in the most friendly manner, and in.
vitod to eat, drink, and refresh themselves. The return made by the invaders for the 
kindness with which theywere treated, was ungrateful indeed. In the dead of the
night, they commenced plundering, and appropriating to
themselves every thing they could lay their hands on.
These men were loafers-the dangerous and unprin. cipled set
of people of whom General Houston is 80 anxious to free the country. One of the few 
respectable individuals who took part in the expedition told us, that 
they were heartily ashamed of being there, and, for his own part, be felt 1, dreadful 
small" on the occasion. But to return to the character of the President.
Old Sam, as he is universally called, is, I believe, a native of Kentucky
and was educated for the law. He distinguished himself at the United States 
bar, and married an American lady 'possessed of great personal attractions, 
Differences subsequently arose between himself and his wife, causes of
which are not~ known, and as divorces are easily, obtained in this country, where mutual irritability is alone sufficient to establish grounds for entire 
separation, General Houston took advantage of this facility. To judge from his subsequent conduct, he must have felt his domestic bereavement severely,
and it seems to have been long before he recovered from its effects. year 1828, 
fit of disgust and despair, as it is supposed, he took up his abode 
among a distant tribe of Indians, I be. lieve the Cherokees. He spent sevdral 
years among them,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
conforming himself to their habits, and even outdoing them in sorne of their acts of daring and adventure. I He is said to have taken to himself a squaw ; 
but let it be re. membered that this is only hearsay evidence, and I do not vouch for 
its veracity. It is commonly related, that at this period of his life, and in the society of these primitive bon vivans, General Houston grew so attached 
to the dram-bottle, that the Indians bestowed on him drunken
Sam." Having now said all the evil, if such it call be called,
of his character we must bright side. General Houston's bravery is worthy of the 
boldest days of chivalry; his patriotism sincere and unquestioned, arid his integrity
withouta stain. His talents as a legislator are of a high order, against 
him succeed in electing a President who is opposed politics, they will find
him most formi. dable in opposition. When we consider bow mainly in.
instrumental the President has been in securing their independence, more 
surprised that he should have enemies among his own people. In the 
enumeration of his qualities, we should, however, notice, that he is caustic and
severe; and that his superior talents render him, perhaps, not sufficiently lenient to tile 
faults and weakness of others; circumstances which may, in some 
measure, account fbr his unpopularity.
General Houston has lately married again, and his wife accomplished 
exemplary person. She possesses a great influence over President, and uses it
with judgment and moderation. Owing to her admirable advice, General Houston has broken through those habits of drinking and swearing, formerly blots on his
character, and the former of which injured his health, man of education, and, 
besides being well read, in polite literature, appreciates the elegant and standard
authors of our country.
Whenever the President travels through the country, expense of the persons at 
whose houses he puts up, and whenever he makes use of a steamer he has the
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TEXAS AND THE
privilege of a free passage. I believe that during his, public career General Houston has neither saved nor, made a dollar; on the contrary, he is said to be often in pecuniary difficulties, As -a proof how convinced tho, people are of his integrity, in 
regard to not having amassed a fortune from the public funds, it may be men~
tioned, that not long ago, being in want of a little tobacco and not having wherewith 
to purchase it, he could not obtain credit.
I Parties are much divided, and the opinions people, showing themselves various 
ways on subject of the election of the next. President. It is the preailing
topic ofconversation; indeed, it seems to me that both in the United States and Texas this sort of excitement is so, popular, that no sooner is a President elected, than there
commences all the excitement of' canvassing for and;choosing his successor. At the 
present moment there are several persons who are about to as, they call
for the Presidency. , General Houston has bitter enemies; has likewise warm friends 
and partisans, who among the best and most influential of the people; it is,
therefore, not probable thal the choice of a successor in the government will fallupon any one inimical to him, or decidedly adverse to his line of policy. Without using
any undue means to make himself popular, the President is courteous and polite to persons of all ranks; and, though I believe a Tory at heart, makes no difference in
his civility of manner to any parties or factions. House of Assembly at Washington is 
open to the street; it has no windows, and any one may look in who pleases.
General Houston's greeting to the free citizens.-carters, blacksmiths,  
be-is always equally kind and polite. It is, 1, 'ye, do, Colonel'? How's
Madam? B d weather for the ladies'!" During th7-s time, and while 
public business was under discussion, the honourable members 
of Congress were to be seen seated on candle-boxes and sugar-casks; inshort~
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GULF OF MEXICO.
on any thing they could find; and each man was whittling away without 
intermission.
A piece of wood is placed before each senator, who, were it'not for this 
necessary precaution, would very soon, in common honourable friends, cut 
table Pieces. No sooner is a member seated than he takes out 'his
knife, and never leaves off cutting away, wheth6r' speaking or silent.
A great deal, certainly, is done with wood, besides national amusement of 
whittling. It is invariably used for building; and the celerity they erect both
churches and houses, is, as I have before remarked, wonderful. troop 
Franconi's horses, at least their owners called thern such, on their 
way from Mexico to the United States, were at present amusing good citiiens
Galveston by their performances. In a day, there was built quite a, large 
temporary theatre for the exercise of their maneuvres.
ugh some of the houses have a certain air of ex neatness decoration, yet comfort, 
at least domestic household comfort, is quite unknown country. north winds blow
through and through their paper houses, and they heed carpets, 
well-made beds, and all such necessaries of life, unknown or despised. The 
traveller in Texas must set out prepared for every species discomfort: his bed, 
should happen to procure one, will be disputed, hould happen to prefer a
compromise, perhaps shared, by some other traveller. late Charge d'Affaires
French Majesty, chanced to be travelling up the country, primitive republic. 
He was fresh from the luxuries and agHmens of a Paris life, not
among the least of which may be reckoned the comfortable beds every where 
to be enjoyed. To this agreeable mode of Texas, and its numerous
inconveniences, must "have fortned a striking contrast. arriving at one of halting 
places at night, he retired to what he doubt19
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TEXAS AND THE
less imagined would be a solitary couch; winds of heaven were whistling 
through his log.built chamber, and the bright stars peeping through the rwf, the
fatigue of the journey soon closed his eyes in slumber, He had
not, however, slept many minutes, when he was awoke entrance of a most 
formidable-looking individual. It'was a stout Kentuckian, duly armed with 
bowie knife and pistols; and who, while in disencumbering himself of his
upper garments, said, in a Coarse, but not friendly voice, stranger, I guess I'll take 
the inside of the bed, if it's the same to you?" I believe the Parisian preferred passing 
night on the floor, to the misfortune of having a Yankee wall and his nobility.
No innkeeper in this country would ever dream of sending traveller on the plea 
of want of room, as long as one bed remained in his house unoccupied, except 
two men. It'was with a perfect knowledge of the difficulties inconveniences that 
awaited us, that we made UP I our minds to undertake an 
excursion up the country, and we were therefore prepared contingencies. 
M4 y here remark that, on a previous occasion, accompanied Mr. Houstoun on a 
fishing and shooting excursion mainland, help thinking, extremely eligible country 
for railroads. As far as I could see, and I was told it was the same for miles, the
horizonwas only bounded by the flat, and pathless prairie. such advantages of 
locomotion were now,at hand! But then, though unquestionably we should have
been spared many of the small and tedious troubles route, we should also have
deprived of the pleasure of seeing a remarkable country its primeval state, and
we should also have lost in interest, what, we gained in luxury and comfort. The 
weather was extremely cold, and sharp northers were chilling us with
their ungenial breath, but we were too anxious something more of the country, to 
be easily dissuaded from our purpose.
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GULF OF MFXICO.
The corps diplomatique were engaged to join our party, arrangements required 
for the undertaking being few and simple, we fixed an early day, and forthwith
took our places in the steamer bound up the Buffalo Bayou Houston
CHAPTER XXIII.
Commencement of an excursion up the country-The Houston steamer-Her 
passengers-The town of Houston-Tavem fare at Houston-Start for the prairie.,
C,ive allowance to our liberal jests Upon their persons BEAUMONT Fletcher
Where highest woods impenetrable To sun or starlight, spread their umbrage 
broad And brown as evening. MILTON.
IT was about two o'clock in the afternoon of- a bright frosty day, that we put 
ourselves on board the Houston steamer-Captain Kelsey. She vessel, and ,drew
but little water, a circumstance very necessary small rivers. The American river 
steamers differ very much in appearance from those to which an European
eye"'is accustomed. 'They appearance of wooden houses, built upon a large raft; 
there is a balcony or verandah, and on the roof is what is called the hurricane-
deck, where gentlemen passengers walk and smoke. occasion of our taking our 
passage both ladies and gentlemen's cabin were quite full, and I therefore
'preferred spending the evening in the balcony in spite of the cold., I had many kind 
offers of civility, but, I could not help, being amused at the terms of them
were couched. The question addressed to me of , liquor, ma'am" was speedily 
followed by the production of
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TEXAS AND THE
tumbler of eggnogg, which seemed in great request, and I 'Cannot deny its 
excellence; I believe the British Navy claims the merit of its invention, but this 
We dined soon after our arrival on board and found every body very orderly and civil 
; certainly there was a strange mixture of ranks, but this made it more amusing to
a stranger. The ladies, during dinner, were very silent, though the noise I had heard 
making in their own cabin, five minutes before, was deafening. The supper
consisted of alternate dishes of boiled oysters, and beef-steaks, of which there was 
plenty, and the latter disappeared in marvellously quick time between the
strong jaws of the, Texan gentlemen. I confess to preferring meat which has been 
kept somewhat more than an hour, especially in frosty weather. On one
occasion our dinner was delayed for sonic time,, while the cook went on shore and 11 
shot a beef."
There was fortunately water enough for us to cross Red Fish Bar, and we were fast 
steaming up Buffalo River. For a considerable distance from the mouth, tile
shores are low,, flat and swampy, but stream narrowed there were high banks, and 
the trees were quite beautiful in spite of the season, which was extremely
unfavourable to foliage and woody scenery. Such magnolias-eighty feet in height, 
with a girth like huge forest trees-what must they be when in full blossom!
There were, also a great number and variety of ever-greens, laurel, bay, and firs, 
rhododendrons, cistus, and arbutus. It 'seemed one vast shrubbery ; the trees and
shrubs grew to- a. prodigious height, and often inet over the steamer, wound 
through the short reaches of this most lovely stream.
It was late when I retired to my cabin, for the scene, lighted by a clear frosty moon, 
was so beautiful, and to Me so novel, that I could not makp up my inind to leave it.
I had expected to be much annoyed by the noise of the high pressure engine ; to that, 
however, I soon . be.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
accustomed, but, on the other,hand, of all, sounds heard, negro slaves carolling 
out their nightly songs was the most dismal and unearthly, seated, some on the
hurricane-deck, and others at ir work, but all joining in the same loud, weary, s
chaunt. The young girls have generally figures, and are as straight and upright 
as pines: in the ladies' cabin especially there was pretty bright-
eyed black girl, who seemed full good humour.
My berth opened out of the state cabin, and as the partition was a Venetian 
door, I could not avoid hearing all the conversation that was carried on by my
neighbours. Cards and drinking constituted inconsiderable part of the pleasures 
of the evening, but with all the excitement of talk, tobacco-chewing, and brandy,
ard people more orderly and reasonable. Their ual was of dollars: politics, 
indeed, occasion their turn, but the subject ceased to become pockets of the 
company could no affected by the turn of affairs. private scandal, no wit, no 
literature, no small-talk; all hard, dry, calculating business. I heard many
shrewd hard-headed remarks; the fate of their country talked over as a matter of 
business, and one rather important-looking gentleman stump speech on
the expediency of Texas becoming a colony of Great Britain!, I do, not know the 
orator's name, but General Colonel he must have been. Military titles are taken
~given here with as little ceremony as the title of Count the Continent Mr. 
Houstoun sprang into a General at once.
Baptist preacher on board, a thin, weary. man his eye, which was very
fought for his country, and though man of peace, delighted displaying knowledge
military matters , He was going to Houston 
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TEXAS AND THE
to establish a school for young gentlemen, while his wife superintend the education of 
their sisters. This he said he was induced to do, that his boys mix with their
inferiors; he could not bear, he added, that his acquainted with vulgar boys, 
which they were obliged to do at Galveston, but he like i4 and now at his school,
he could choose the boys! Exclusiveness, here! Where shall country where the 
real charitable feelings of equality exist? I may remark that maid was obliged to wait
till all these people had done their meals, I was told, they did not like her to eat at 
the same table, Strange inconsistency! but one that sufficiently shows the futility of
any attempt to introduce a perfect system of equality country. It exists in America but 
in name. 
I shall not easily forget the night I passed on the Buffalo river; there was card-playing 
going on in both cabins, and occasionally I heard a card put down with a smart slap, 
then 14 1 guess now, that's the way to do business," and from another 4 now sir, I've made an operation I expect." In the ladies' cabin, where a few favoured individuals 
sex had the good fortune to be admitted, Miss Delia, I see the giraffe ahead, I 
do." And then a young gentleman played Auld lang syne" with variations on the
violin, followed by 4, The boatie rows," sung with tremendous applause by a young 
Scotchman with a fine bass voice, much for Westminster Abbey.
At seven o'clock in the morning we arrived at the pretty town of Houston; it is built on 
high land, and the banks, which are covered with evergreens, rise abruptly from the
river. There are plenty of inns at Houston, such as and we took up our quarters at 
the, - Houston House," a large shambling wooden building, Captain or Colonel
Baldwin, one of the most civil, obliging people I ever saw. sitting-room which was 
weather-proof, though to keep out the intense cold was 
impossible. It was said that our landlord was anxious to
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GULY OF MEXICO.
add to the comforts of his house, but he had a great many bad debts; 
us, a losing concern altogether; 4iore went out than came in, arid, only that morning,
ng asked a gentleman to pay his bill, the reply f you come to insult 
me again sir, by - I'll' shoot We went down to breakfast in the public room;
food consisted of tough beef-steaks, each as large good-sized dish, eggs hardly 
warmed through, and emptied over the meat, and squirrels; each guest did not 
remain rnore than five minutes, and on his retiring, his place immediately filled 
byanother hungry traveller, Ilopked silent wonder extraordinary powers mastication
one old man in particular, in a green baize coat, idalltherest. I could not 
have believed any human being could have contrived to stow away such a cargo of
~,t dry goods" in so short a time. The weather bad by this time changed, and,a, cold 
sleety rain was falling. It was not promising weather -for sport, Mr. Houstoun was 
determined to try, his luck, and the whole society place kindly offered to accompany
him on his expedition. Off they all set, on raw-boned high trotting horses, guns on 
their shoulders, exhibiting every variety of strange costume. As to any
sport they had, they might as well have remained,at 'home; only event of tile day 
being the breaking of our doctor's, bridle, upon which his horse ran away, and he
was thrown, happily, however, without receiving any injury. Houston, proud as the 
Texans axe of it as a city, :,does not bear a close inspection; there is but one 
brick house in it, and I could not quite make out inhabitants meant when they 
talked of it as, a great city the poetry of the country sir, is Houston;" a very in.
comprehensible panegyric certainly.
Our dinner we had in private. The hotel was, as the landlord said, , in a fix," 
but our fare was not bad of its kind, there being 4 pork dodgers dough doings,"
corn bread) chicken fixings and sausages. Rossetta, negress rings on every finger, 
waited upon us, and
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TEXAS AND THE
a hideous creature she was: Jerry, too, the black Porter great thief, assisted. The 
tea was made ina huge kettle. We retired to rest fatigued enough. A piercing
norther was blowing and whirling wildly round the fragile house, and forcing its 
way through the cracks crannies, and putting out both fire and candle; the cold
also wasmore intense than any thing I ever before experienced. The whole town 
was in a state of excitement, for the Mexicans, who had recently entered
Bexar, and had marched off all its inhabitants as prisoners, were hourly expected. 
During the night there was a cry that they were at hand, but it proved only a
false alarm., We were disturbed too, in the course night by the importunities, of 
an unfortunate man, who could not find a bed, and,who kept knocking at all our
doors, saying he wa~ very cold and must come in. was what the landlord called a 
11 rowdy loafer;" not a pleasant companion, as it is by these people, and by these
alone (who are not Texans be it said) that gouging bowie-knifing are practised, 
ceiling was of canvass, and in the night we Were obliged to,, fix" an umbrella
over the bed, while I watched the feet of a restless cat as wandered over our heads; 
her,paws finding their way through the holes, which time had worn in our sail-
cloth covering. The prairie, as I have said, was in a very bad state for
travelling. Roads, it is well known, there were none, plumbing the track," namely, 
tracing the path of former travellers, is at all times difficult; however, we were
resolved to see something of the country, hired a wagon for the purpose, 
drawn by two stout horses, and set off, in spite of wind and weather.
On leaving Houston, we ascended a hill so steep, almost impossible for a, 
carriage, however light, to be drawn up it. Stumps of trees were left in the middle of
the path, which lies through a thick forest. The trees mostly evergreens, magnolias, 
bay, laurel, and cypress, and the forest itself appearance ornamental shrubbery  gigantic scale. Notwithstanding
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GULF~OFMEXICO.
severe cold, the ground was beginning to be enamelled with, flowers. There 
were violets, and a small flower like a jessamine, but growing close to the ground:
there were both blue and white. I saw, also, various salvias, and other plants and 
flowers, of which, not being botanist no account. It was quite gladdening, been
debarred so long a time from the sight trees find oneself journeying through 
such woods began to think that the name of Happy, hunting grounds 
not misapplied. Texas signifies, in Indian tongue, these endearing and 
happy-sounding words; and I believe that those parts of the republic, Indians
still abide, are the most worthy the appellation.
CHAPTER XXIV.
scenery of the prairie-Free and easy manner of the innkeeper's son-Indians of the Lipan tribe-Letter of' condolence, to the Lipans on the death of their chief
In distant wilds, by human eye unseen She rears her flowers, and spreads her 
velvet green, Pure gurgling -rills, the lovely desert trace, And waste
their music on the savage race. YOUNG.
Here to the houseless child of want The door is open still. GOLDSMITH.
THE birds here are - many and various. Cardinals, blackbirds with bright red 
wings, mocking-birds, and woodpeckers of every hue, are the most common. As
you advance into the interior, the woods become less thick, and the country is more 
open. It is, in fact; prairie, slightly rolling, and diversified with frequent
clumps of, trees, so tastefully arranged by the hand of
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TEXAS AND THE
nature, that you could imagine yourself in a finely-kelt Engligh park where 
landscape-gardeners and studiers ot, the, picturesque expended their utmost 
skill in beautifying, the, scenery. Where the clumps of trees considerable distance 
each other, I was strongly reminded of some parts of Windsor Forest. We saw great
quantities of cattle grazing, and some sheep; these waj told, are considered 
very profitable stock.; they sell ~'e at from three to four dollars each: and the 
following manner of preventing them from straying, ~truck ingenious. 
In the month of March, the long prairie grass is set on fire. Where sheep are
to graze, the fire is confined to small patches, and as they not roam into the high 
grass, they keep eating down that which has been burned, till the 
owner thinks it expedient to prepare another spot for them in a similar manner.
At our inn, one night, the master's son, after setting our dinner table, coolly 
advanced his chair to the fire, observing it was cold, and added, General now, where you go to; tell us now; I guess you found it cold. You haven't fixed any
game, any how.",, 'flow surprised we should be in England at
such familiarity as this; but here, you see at once the absurdity showing or feeling 
annoyance, as it is evident they are so very far from intending incivility; they are, more, 
over, so genuinely kind, that 1, for one, felt inclined to' take every thing
as it was meant-in good part. An Englishman certainly fbels, when he pays for his room at, an inn, that even the landlord has no right to enter it; divest himself of 
these peculiarities here. In other respects, resting-places night are as comfortable 
as goodwill and hospitality can make them. it is often difficult to persuade the worthy host to accept any remuneration; and we were told by an Englishman,~~. who
Jmd been in every part of the country, that lie had often known, traveller was 'not 
possessed of muck~ ready cash, a good song, or a budget of news, 
invented. or,", remembered, would be taken in payment for a night'~,,;',,,11
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GULF OF MEXICO.
lodging ample meal. Read this, rich men who live refined and Populous cities; 
eat the dinner which cost you as much as would have nourished a score
of, hungry wanderers; but when, you have done, reflect lodging in the desert, where, 
out of little, at ing is given.
stime I made acquaintance with an, Indian Lipan tribe, came with a rabbit, to sell 
to me,. tribe were in a camp at no great distance. alone when he entered, and 
he eyed me evidently fear and' suspicion. Poor people, they have no
rea~ either td",Jike or respect the whites; and I did, not suspicion, though I did at 
his alarm. He about eighteen years old, very gipsy-looking, with an
eye singularly wild and piercing. He was dressed like hunter leather pouch, cow's 
horn for- powder, a whistle. His clothing was scanty enough. g time before
he would approach me, and great dislike to allowing me to touch his ts. He
had his rabbit in his arms, and conke me understand, by putting up his fingers, 
 wanted two bits, about tenpence, for it. Having money, I poured out a 
glass of sherry, which him, but be refused it with a look of disgust, and
spin retreated to his corner. Knowing the fondness of Indians spirits, I concluded 
be was afraid it was poisoned I was right in my supposition, for immediately
seeing me put my lips to the glass, he seized it from my hand, and drank it off
specimen of his kind, and I was very glad this interview with him.
tribe of Indians to which my acquaintance benged, is of any importance, and 
their numbers o been much weakened by their wars with the Camanchees
hereditary enemies. it he hoped that these wars Indians soon. put stop to in Texas. 
The 4 happy hunting grounds indeed' , can never be what they once were, to
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TEXAS AND THE
these, poor people ; yet peace, and freedom from oppression, they have a right to 
hope for, and General Houston, who interests himself much civilization and well.
being, has on every occasion proved himself their friend protector. A meeting of 
the tribes was to be held shortly, at the Wacco village, on the Brazos, situated
about two hundred miles above Washington, foribe pur. pose of making treaties 
of alliance both between the whites and among themselves. President is to meet
them there, and much was eXpected, both fi-om his intimate knowledge of Indian 
habits and character, and froni the respect in which he is hold by the tribes. Some
of his addresses,to them are curious enough. I shall transcribe one of the latest, 
being a letter of condolence to the Lipans, on the death of their chief.
To the Chief of the Lipans. Executive Department, Washington, March, 26, 1843.
My BROTHER, - 'My heart is sad !-A dark cloud rests upon your nation.
Grief has sounded in your camp. The voice of Flaco, is silent. His words are -not 
heard in council. The chief is 110 more; his eyes are closed. His heart no longer 
leaps at the sight of the buffalo ! The voices of your camp longer beard to cry, Flaco 
has returned frotn'the chase! Your chiefs look down earth, and groan in trouble.
The warriors weep-the loud voice of grief is beard from your women and children. 
song of birds is silent. The ear of your people hCaTS RO pleasant sound. Sorrow
whispers in the winds. The noise ofthe tempest passes: it  heard : your hearts 
are heavy. The name of Flaco brought joy to all hearts. joy face! Your people were 
happy. Flaco is no longer seen in the fight: his voice is no longer heard in battle.
The enemy no longer makes a path for his glory. His valour is no longer a guard 
for your people, 
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right arm of vour nation is broken. Flaco was friend to his white brothers: not forget
him. They will remember the red warrior: Iiis father forgotten. We will be kind 
to the Lipans. Grass Aall not grow in the path between us. Let your wise
.,men give the counsel of peace. Let your young men, in the white path. gray-headed 
men of your nation will teach wisdom. I will hold my red brothers by the hand.
Thy brother, SAM. HouSTON.
The landlord of the inn came in soon after the departure of the Indian, and 11 
fixed the rabbit" for me, as lie called it. This was merely putting it into a box, witil
holes in it. I kept the poor little animal some time., in memory.of my wild acquaintance, 
but soon after we returned to the Dolphin he escapcd, and I heard no more of
hiaL We had some excellent wild turkeys up the country, much better than the 
tame. On the wbole,we enjoyed our inland visit, which we extended in 
various directions about Houston. 
In regard to the sport, .or rather in the absence of it., the gentlemen of the
party were disappointed; and we began to think that the quantity of game tip the 
country, and the ease with which it was said to be procured, were rather overrated.
The I want of success, however, inight, perhaps, fairly attributed badness weather.
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TEXAS AND TIM
CHAPTER XXV.
Dangers of travelling in the prairie-Last evening at Houston -Severe frost-Return from 
Houston to Galveston-The opossum-political conferences discussion slave~
trade-Slave-owners sufferers by its continuance.
in a strange land Such things, however trivial, reach the heart, the heart the head, 
clearing away The narrow notions that grow up at home, And in
their place grafting good-will to all; At least I found it so. Rogers
THE city of Houston was our head-quarters during our stay up the country, and 
greatly did we regret that the state of the prairie, owing to constant and heavy
rains, 1 11 prevented our travelling as far as Washington, city we had intended to 
have visited. Ile Scarcity and indifference of the accommodations would
not, have deterred us from such an undertaking, but, country where roads do not 
exist, it is difficult not to lose 'one's way. The danger is considerably increased when
the trail of previous travellers is obliterated by the rains, plumbing the track, the 
Texan term for tracing a road, is, at all times, a slow and tedious operation. Be.
tween Houston and Washington there is a certain,space of two miles, 
were in the country,wa's not traversed in less time than four hours, deep mire.
The Brazos 'and Trinity bottoms overflowed weeks together in the winter season, 
and, in the absence of causeways and bridges, are extremely 
difficult and even dangerous to pass. In process of time, there 
is no doubt that the banks will become raised, in a similar
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GULF OF MEXICO.
manner to those of the Mississippi, and the overflowings rivers will be checked. At 
present, the aspect6f the prairie, during the winter season, scenes occasionally
acted there,, are more amusing to a looker on, than agreeable to
the parties concerned. Travellers are seen knee-deep in mud, and
looking as though hopeless of rescue, and dying dead, cattle are interspersed 
among bales of cotton, which are in process of  hauling altogether it requires a great 
spirit of enterprise to dare the dangers of the route. We may fairly
suppose, that one of the first public wotlis Which the Texans undertake, will be to 
establish a canal or railroad, between the Brazos river and Galveston 
bay, in order to facilitate the transit of the cotton, now hauled across the, country,
froin the Brazos to Houston.
Our inn at Houston, though comfortable as Colonel Baldwin's extreme attention could 
make it, was cold and cheerless enough, and we were not sorry when the last evening arrived which we were to spend under its roof, We had our
usual dinner of pork dodgers and a turkey fixed with sausages, varied with some dough doingrs, in the shape of puddings, the like of which I  Our surprise at
their shape and consistency caused great delight to Rossetta, negress waiting, whose mouth distended to twice its usual dimensions violence merriment. Her
laughter contagious, and our last evening Houston House" passed of in high glee.
We regretted very much that we were obliged to leave country without being introduced 
to the President; but, we hope, on a future occasion, to thank him in per
gratif received Frow him. messages we
We were to leave, Houston at eight o'clock in"the morning arrangement which gave me much -satisfaction, as I should thus have an opportunity of 
seeing a consi&rable part of the country which we had previously 
passed in the dark. The frost was very severe, and the inhabitants asserted weather
was unusually cold for the
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TEXAS AND THE
season of the year. They have an adage which tells that no frost is ever known after 
the blossoming of the dogwood. This season, certainly an ex. ception;,for this
pretty shrub was in fall blossom, and yet thermometer four degrees below freezing 
point, Ihe bayou is very narrow at Houston, and extremely winding; 
sonic of the turns being so sharp that the steamer had great difficulty in getting 
round, and frequently touched the bank, both ahead and astern. Slow,
how. ever, as was our progress, I would have made it Slower still,
The muse of inspiration played Oler every scene; she walked the 
forest niaze, And climbed the mountain; every blooming spot Burned with her
step, yet man regards it not."
There was a bright sun shining above us; and, notwithstanding the brisk cold air, I 
persisted in remaining on the hurricane-deck. I was at last, warned of the danger of
my, position, by receiving a pretty smart blow,from the branch trees which 
nearly met over the stream. There were beautiful shrubs grow. close to the water's edge, and down the steep acclivities had trickled rills of water, though now
frozen into icicles. The land was high, and inters,,wrsed hill and, valley on either 
bank; the nearer, however, we approached sea, flatter and less pleasing the 
country appears; gradually becoming marshy, haiing unhealthy appearance.
There, are quit~ms many passengers on board as when we ascended the river, and I 
certainly had reason to dread the night and the noisy talk which followed. voices 
Americans are in general disagreeable and pitched in a high
tone: this is unpleasant enough in a inan, but when voice proceeds from the mouth 
of a young and pretty woman, one really feels inclined to stop one's ears, and refuse to hear the voice of the channer. As to the habitual, nasal twang (which visited 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
country I thought a fable, or at least exaggeration fault-finding countrymen), it certainly 
exists in great perfection, and I have been at some pains to discover the cause. The fact is, their mouths are so f"ll of their flavourite weed, that they cannot
open them to speak -,,vitbout disagreeable consequences, therefore obliged to 
employ their noses to perform the duty. But enough arid too much 
has been said on this disagreeable subject; and I only mention it d propos of my
sleepless nights, on my narrow shelf steamer. Breakfast board; beef, and raw eggs 
after it, and the infallible eggnogg was drank by both ladies and 
gentlemen. Brandy is given it discretion and gratis; nobody, appeared, to commit
any excess, or seerned the least the worse for it.
There was a very pretty American on board, who bride only a fortnight; she was 
not nineteen years of age, and yet these were her second nuptials. Life Is
soon begun in this country, especially among the female portion of its inhabitants;
while yet a child in years, the young American starts into dreadful ansum girl" at once,
and the consequence of this premature start is an early decay youth and beauty.
I was terripted, aftex breakfast, into the ladies' cabin, remained, because I was pleased and amused by what was going on. The wife, captain, milk of
human kindness in her composition than would have softened a dozen hearts in our 
conventional world, took great pains to teach ine the art of knitting, 
in which she was wonderfully skilled, and 1, in re. turn, answered her numerous questions about England.  Well I guess you've better thread than this in the old country." Do tell now, isnt this pretty sugar?" and then I told another lady (in return to some similar infarnIation) how many children I had left at home, and
~Jl, then she wondered how I could keep away from them, and
repeated the bon mots and accomplishments. of her
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TEXAS A" THE
own nursery brood till I, began rather to repent of my temerity venturing among 
loquacious society,' f I tell you now, ina'am, my little boy always bides when he's told to go to school, and I expect it's hard work to find him; he's a smart boy
is Washington Mirabeau, and, tliat,s a &ct.11 At dinner we had pig parsnips, 
meal was, as usual, despatelied in an incredibly short time. We were all much 
disappointed at an~ announcement which was soon after made to us, that~~
owing to the severe norther which had been blowing two days, the water was too 
low on one of the banks in the river to enable us to reach Galveston that evening. 
consequently obliged to run the vessel alongside of a sort of quay, wait till the tide 
rose. A temporary bridge was constructed, and we ail went 
on shore, some to shoot, others to visit a Colonel Morgan, close to whose house the 
vessel was lying, and some, like myself, to pass away time. It was extremely
cold, and ,we were obliged to walk briskly to keep ourselves tolerably warm.
Colonel Morgan's house was very pretty; its owner was absent, so I went over it 
and took a walk grounds. The latter were well laid out, and the adjoining
farm, appeared, to my inexperienced eye, in good order; some very fine sheep were 
grazing, and the wheat and barley looked very well. Mr. Houston had the good lack
to kill an opossum, a strange-looking ugly animal, something like a badger, I with 
its f6re-paws resembling human hands creature on board, society very anxiolo to 
have it cooked for supper, considering it, as they -Siid, first-rate eating."
The opossum, is held, in great respect by the Yankees, as a particulailv 11 smart" 
animal. It is very difficult to take him, and he knows an, ingenious trick two for self. 
preservation. If he finds himself slightly wounded, and,~ after casting in his
mind, sees no, other means of escape, be pretends dead,and even allows himself 
to be carried home and his supposed corpse to be thrown
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GULF OF , XExrCO.
aside, , Directly he finds'himself alone, hb, starts tip makes the best of his way to 
the, Woods again I This trick of the opossum is so well known; that when a slave is
suipected by his employers of shamming sickness, to avoid, his work, compared 
to this cunning little beast; "Well I guess lie's coming 'possum over us." It
is difficult to deceive a Yankee, but the negroes often sneceed when they pretend 
illness, for even as slave owners, these people have hearts, and kind ones too.
Some of the party, who remained on board, amused themselves with rifle-shooting, 
and I saw some good, specimens of Yankee skill. A duck was discovered, on the
water, at the distance of fifty yards, and a sportsman assured us take off the top of 
its head ' at,that distance: lie quite succeeded, little bird literally scalped.
I In the early part of the night I was, as usual, extremely amused with listening to the 
conversation ofthe acuto eaLculators and cunning politicians surrounded us.' '
future fate of the country, and its probable annexation to
some other power was discussed; but what power was it to be? question. 
France, they declared, had been most anxious to obtain possession of them, but her
propositions had not exactly suited them, and the affair England, they seemed 
to think, would be the most eligible country on which to, lean, but itWas doubted,
and, that very generally, whether that power would have say to thein. This 
was public talk, but we were privately informed by a persoll', worthy of credit,
that a negotiation for the sale of Texas, and to had been a party, had been on 
the~ point of being concluded, between America and Mexico. The latter~wcre
to make over Texas, for a stipulated sum, to the United States. The transaction, as lie 
assured us, was all but concluded, and the papers required only the signatures of
the respective presidents, when the person char-6 ed. on the Americans, with, 
the necessary documents, thought he might Just as well do business on hisown
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TEXAS AND THE
account. Instead, therefore, of proceeding direct to Mexico, himself to Texas to 
pureb ase land; being induced to do so by the knowledge value to which land would
rise, immediatelY on the conclusion of the sale. d I Rour was the cause of 
considerable delay, and,in the interim, events occurred rendered the projected
compact impossible, and altered entirely the aspect of affairs.
Mixed up with these political conferences was a good deal conversation on the 
interesting subject of the slave-trade.  This is a very engrossing topic occasion, it,
gave rise to "me rather violent speechifying. There greatly in favour of the 
continuance of slavery, and a few as strongly against it, There was one individual who 
spoke well in favour of abolition; his reasoning's were very right-minded and in.
genious, and I admired the straightforward moral courage, which induced him to stand boldly fbrward in the midst of so many opposbrs, and to advocate, 
openly the cause which he had espoused.
After listening to the various arguments, for and against possession of slave property, 
I saw no reason to change the op I inion I had previously formed on the subjecti and I
am as much as ever convinced that, the slave-owners are the greatest sufferers by its 
continuance. almost absolute dominion which a slave-owner, at
least- in, the plantations, possesses, over his human property, must tend, in the 
abstract, to render a master tyrannical, and unmerciful has the effect of making
them despotic, because the human mind is so constituted possession of-power is 
seldom used with moderation, and it cannot be- doubted harshness, and want
of sympathy with the.sufferings of others, are engendered by the necessity,
furtherance of their own interest-, often lays thein under,  parting kindred and near
friends. I am far, very far from thinking with coldness and apathy human beings
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GULF OF MEXICO.
Christian  livinw in a state of slavery, and dark ignorance however, objections 
often brought for rauce. The are trivial nature. It is said slave be bitterly galling 
to those, who, ti,le, name lylve the misfortune to be called by this degrading 
term. That this would be the case were the present nature and habits of
the People such as to render them susceptible of io,ell fine feeling, I catinot but 
agree ; but before the negroes can claim pity and, sympathy on such 
a plea as this, t1ley must bavo lived for years, and almost for generati,us, a life of 
freedom and voluntary exertion.
Again-that the slave-owner does not always follow the golden rule of doing to 
others as he would be done by, is t , rue, and that it is wrong, and contrary to 
every right priliciple, moral and religious, to keep fellow beings in
this degraded state, is equally so: at the same time, it ulay be asked whether the 
evil, as regards the slaves themselves, is not mort, nominal than real. The owner
a slave, when fie purchases hini, enters into an agreement, understood though not 
expressed, that his servic,88 ~vill be repaid by food, lodging, and decent clothing; that 
he will be allowed sufficient intervals of rest, and a certain portion of
tirne iii which he may work for himself; and also he may look forward to eventual 
independence if lie is able to earn it, conduct may render him deserving boon.
The life of the slave is prot(~cted by the laws, and his good treatment is to a cortain 
degree secured by the powerful argurnent, that it is contrary to his owner's 
interest to ill-use him. All this I believe to be true, as also the fact that young
children are not separated from their parents.
At present, what is the conduct of the freed slave, and how does lie prove that be is 
cither a happier or a better man beeause he possesses the gift of freedom? If there 
is any truth in the supposed degrading, and enervating influence of slave-
owning, there is still more reason for believing that,the forced servitude in which be is 
kept., together with the strong prejudice which exists against
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I TEXAS AND THE
his race a4d, colour, render the freed slave, in his state, of mind, education,, &c., 
incapable of valuing his free position properly.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Character of The negro slave-Probability of freedom bein granted by the~ whites-The 
tariff- A city in embryo-'Return to the yacht.
f I Would not have a slave to till my ground, 'To carry me, to fan me while I sleep, And tremble when I wake, for all the wealth, That sinews bought and sold have ever 
earn'd. COWPER,
I IN the character of the negro slave, as in every other, both good and bad qualities 
are Ynixed. Courage, good.nature, and gratitude, they certainly possess, but they 
also are vain, revengeful, cunning, and indolent. The opinion entertained by many, 
their mental capacities, naturally, are of a very mean order. Prejudice opinion,
certain, circumstances shall have called forth, and the conduct of the negroes
themselves demonstrated statesmen, mathematicians, poets, philosophers,
the fact of t1feir being on an equality, of intellect with their white brethren few 
believers.
It is evidently the policy of the Texan slaveholders to keep the negroes in,
entire ignorance and, mental subjection, and to reduce them  possible to,the
level of brutes, by which means they hope to justify their own
conduct towards them, and to prevent any possible intermingling of the black and 
white races. It has been proved that, in the south, population faster among the
blacks than among the whites, 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
the surplus population from other countries settles but slavery exists, it follows, 
that in a short time her the negro race will greatly exceed in numbers that
of the white men. When this takes place-if not before-the struggle for freedom will 
commence, and how it will end, no one Can exactly foresee. slave-owner Texas
willingly make us believe that one of their main ,asons for supporting slavery, 
is, because of the impossibility of employing white labour in many Parts of Vicir
territories, Yet We may fairly conclude that the real otive for their conduct 
proceeds from alarm lest tile should make an immediate, and disagreeable use
negroes of their fteedom were it granted them.
That they will do so at some future time, can hardly be doubted, and it is almost to 
be wondered at, that any government should encourage the existence of slaves,
when they are known to be increasing in such formidable numbers, Unless some deeisive measures are taken the day of reckoning must come, and 
in anticipation of this crisis, and feeling bow little aid can be depended on from
the North, the southern governments have taken pains to
prevent as much as possible the granting of freedom in individual cases, and are 
likewise ' most careful in checking the entrance of free, negroes into the country, As
a proof of this fact, I may mention that when we were the point of engaging at 
Jamaica a black man, as steward's mate, we were told that he would not be
allowed to go on shorcin a slave country, and that he discovered on board the 
yacht, Mr. Houstoun would be obliged to become surety to a large amount that he should not put foot on land.
In regard to the excuse principally alleged for continning sIavery~-viz. that of the 
necessity of employing black labour in so hot a country as Texas,affirmed sensible
judges that the necessity for so doing if; founded upon erroneous opinion. It is true 
that were slavery abolished, the culture of land, in some parts Texas would he more
laborious, and perhaps less pro.
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TEXAS AND THE
ductive than,, it is now; but no one can believe white men.,cannot work, or raise 
the produce of the country. , In most parts of the republic, the climate is
n6t, hotter than it is in the southern countries of Europe; and it
is obvious that, were white labour in request, white men would work, and the Country 
would become settled ,in an incredibly short space of time. advantage, together
with innumerable other benefits attend. a4t on the abolition of,
slavery, (not among the least of ,which may be mentioned, Texas in the esti. 
ma,tion of European nations,) are considered, it must be concluded 
that the blacks will ere long receive their freedom at the hands of their white masters.
It a~peaxs to me, (short-sighted as I am in these matters, and unqualified to give 
even an humble opinion,) that many of the evils attendant on freeing the blacks might
be modified, and civil war perhaps prevented, by conciliatory measures being adopted 
tirne towards the negroes, 'IT-hey are capable of strong attachments, and though
the work of years e I annot be undone in a day, much might I think he effected 
towards paving the way to a better understanding. The only effectual mode,of con.
namely, that of admitting the negroes to the society of the whites, and to 
equal social rights, neTer J -Should., imagine) will be adopted, so strong is the 
prejudice ~a'gainst them4 Still for his own interest, as well f his country, each 
man should perfbrm his part in, the good work, and should bear in mind the
followin, g passa I ge from an admirabie, writer on this question- may be the effort 
of the Americans of the South to maintain slavery, they will not always
succeed. Slavery, which is now confined to a single tract of the civilized earth, 
which is attacked by Christianity as unjust, and by political economy as prejudicial;
and which is now contrasted with ' democratic liberties, information of our acre, 
cannot survive. By the choice of the master, or the will of the slave, it Will
cease ;' and in either case, great calamities may be ex.
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GULF OF, MEXICO.
If liberty be refused tothe negroes it be given, they will abuse-it,erc long.,,
important discussion of the slave queon at one end of the cabin, the price of 	
provisions tariff were the topics of conversation at very thing, as I have before 
said, resol I ves Into ,calculation," and I had a proof of this on occasion. One of the speakers declared:that presen things in general were dearer used'to be he
1"',',"detailed file different and indispensable articles of food clothing,summed up  
cost; this he called the expense living Having done this, he, proceeded, to
use of living. of the item-, required on leaving the doctor's bill, the coffin, the hearse
tile burial fees lawyer's ditto for making the, will, and the supper funeral ; and he 
concluded with 4, Well, tej if living's dear in this country, dying
negroes S, I may rernark, had a grtmd fight this evening their yells and oaths were 
fearful to hear interrupted in their pastime, nor did appear even to notice affray.
The battle-field, of San Jacinto was pointed out to me, the evolutions: performed 
during the engagement ,,,4emribedby one who had borne part in the action, The
Texans always speak of this victory with pride and,'exultation, and they have a good 
right to doso.
Fire, had recently occurred in this neighbourhood, by residence of a General 
Baker had been destroyed, and he himself reduced to great misery Fires
are uow very rare in this country, but a Yankee remarked o they would 
be more frequent when insurance offices were established.," There are 
several beginnings of cities on this bayou ; one, in particular, I ought to, mention, 
be cimen of the eause i is a good rest planned and begun years foreigner name 
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TEXAS AND THE
Pellegrini ; I believe a native of Savoy This enterprising individual is as mad a 
castle-builder, as I ever saw, and enthusiastic and sanguine beyond 
belief We remained &~short time, to land passengers before the city ; the plan
,embraces churches, club-houses, squares, terraces, theatres, short, all the 
concomitants of a great city; but in the mean time there exist but 
eight wooden houses and a find sounding name.
There was a, Slight accident, which happened to one of the engines,,that delayed our 
arrival about two hours, even after we came within sight of Galveston, and it was 
evening of the third day, before the steamer tolue-, "Ahe upper wharf of that port. 
The gig waswait. ing'fai "us with her crew of fine-looking English sailors, in 
their yacht-costume,. each of thern so clean and neat; what admiration they excited 
stepped from the gig on board of the dirty little steamer!-none,
on board had ever seen the smart crew of an English yacht sight evidently 
filled them with wonder. In five minutes we found ourselves enjoying the quiet and com. fort of, our ocean home. One certainly never appreciates c~omfbrts
till one loses sight of them, How ofien, during our absence, had I sighed for the 
every-day luxuries ~towhich we were accustomed on board. The' decks never~
Io6kedso white as now,and the brigbtly-polished pns and spotless paint, 
themselves, a perfect luxury to, the sight. 'Tis evening tirine, and o'er 
the sand, The starlit waves are gently swelling And not a sound is heard on land,
Sav6 the ship's bell, the hour telling, Yet, though the gloomy night-clouds veil
Thy tapering masts, I trace the line Of beauty, and thy presence hail,
My ocean heroine. Thou- Skimmer" of the untamed sea! fairy thing of life and light!
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GULF OF MXXIco.
geposing Ineath the canopy, Ofthe still and peaceful night. Soft in thy 
ocean-cradle sleep, The low wind's voice thy lullaby, Rest! guardians keep' Their 
watchful vigils oer thee. Sleep! for soon their voice,shall, wake 
thee Once more to stem the angry tide; Once more in gladsome jubilee The 
boisterous waves to ride. Then, bird of beauty, rest awhile; Soon on
the broad and boundless main, Leaving this lone and sea.girt isl Thoullt spread 
thy snow-white wings again. mch
CHAPTER XXVII.
Severe norther-The rattlesnake, etc. -Humming-bird Summary mode of ejecting 
abolitionists from Galveston NaationaI guard-Burying-grouiid-Texan duel
Facility  obtaining a divorce-Agreeable present on the last day of our stay-7-Good w6hes to the Republic.
'Tie not testruinvon liberty That makes men prisoners or free, But perturbations, that possess The mind, or equanimities. The whole world was not half so wide
To Alexander, when he cryd, Because he had but,,one to subdue, As was a valtrv narrow tub to, Diogenes; who is not said, For ought that, ever 1, could read,
To whine, put finger Pth' eye, and sob, Because he'&neer another tub. Hudibras
Toi cold wind seemed to have been still more severely it had been. up the countryi 
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TEXAS AND THE
man bad actually died from its effects. This dismal death, however, was not so much 
to be ascribed to the intensity of the frost, as to the extreyne keenn-ess and
Strength of the wind. The crew were fortunately always p ( relpared, by the sudden . 
falling of the glass, for these national northers; but if it happened that I myself liad
neglected to consult this unerring guide, I haxe been quite astonished at their 
arrival. I have known a calm as still as death; not a ripple'on the water and not a
murmur on the breeze; when suddenly a sailor has exclaimed , Here it comes !" and, 
in a moment, literall~ in the twinkling of an eye, the wind was roaring thr~ugh
ihe rigging, and the sea rising to a tremendous height; Remoter waves caine rolling on to see The strange transformiag, mystery:"
the schooner was tossed about at her anchorage, and the water
fell on the bar to its lowest depth.
The last norther, before our return, was paxticularly~ severe, but fortunately it left 
us fine spring-weatber; andas a proof of the power sun, rattlesnakes, alligators
'and, musquitoes were beginning to make their appearance. Of the former, I confess, 
I have a great horror, am sure if I were ever to become a 1, settler," I
should not have courage to brave them, as I saw done by the Galveston people. 
order, I suppose, to make onel's mind easy, you are told the Indians" know
an herb, which they call the ,snake's master;" I have doubt that this is very 
consolatory to them, but I cannot see in what way others are benefited by their
knowledge. 11 saw a poor little Scotch terrier fall a victim to one of these 
reptiles: with all the spirit, and valour of his race, the tiny dog rushed al bis, f-11
and, careless of his master's call, returned again t6 tb charge, even after having been 
Severely bitten : he lived, only about three hours after he had received the bite
though all, kinds of remedies were tried, which, we were told, was a spoonful
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GULF OF MEXICO.

gun powder, poured down the animal's throat. in tile long grass, among snake was 
found, the children of olle of the inhabitants were constantly liabit of playing. I
their father if he was not afraid of their sharing the fate poor terrier, and his reply 
wasil - no, that they never had been bit, and that believed suchi the poison out 
of tile wound, alway, vented any fatal consequences." The rattlesnake ter.
t1inly does not take you unawares, for their angry vicions rattle is heard long before 
they proceed to the attack; would, however, much prefer keeping out of even hearing
distance. The alligator's eggs were just beginning to be hatched, and the young 
reptiles came out in  sunny days in great numbers. The alligator, however, 
frightful he looks, is not a creature to be much afraid of, , rarely known to attack man
and is, moreover, so large and unwield that, whilst turning himself about, there is
plenty of time to get out of his way. We took a young one on board the yacht, about four 
feet long and very savage: he did not live niore than a fortnight, perhaps from too 
much exposed to the cold. I had also a, prPtty little flying-squirrel,
streets of New Orleans from a boy who was tormenting it; creatures are very common 
here as pets, and mine,, though very shy, used to come ort deck to
sun himself in fine Weather. One of the most curious creatures I saw country 
horned frog," as he is familiarly called. In shape, he is not very unlike the ordinary 
frog, but with the addition of a tail, about an inch and a half long, he is
found in marshy spots in tile prairie, and is of a brownish-green colour, spotted with 
black; be has horns on his head, which are pointed, and about half an inch in length
he has also similar excrescences, though not of so great, a length, on his back. Ile 
runs with great rapidity, and is altozether a most wonderful little reptile. We had two of these animals in our menagerie, and hoped to preserve reached England. 21*
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TEXAS AND THE
I I fevr days . beforic we left Texas, we saw, to our great surprise, an immense flight 
of humming-birds. They fiad alighted in a small garden in the middle of the 
which, in default of better and sweeter flowers, was well. stocked with the yellow 
blossoms of the turnip plant, I could have stood for hours looking seemed to be of
every colour; crimson, green, blue' and sprinkled with gold dust. They darted and 
glanced about in the brigp sunshine, shooting out their long slender tongues into the
yellow flowers, and making their tiny music sound through the little parterre. We 
found it very difli. cult to take thern alive, and many were sacrificed, in the
had, however, three brought to me attempt cages, and preserved them 
alive for some days, feeding them on bread soaked in honey, which they ate 
greedily. "I 'hey sit on little perches, and appeared to be much tamer larger birds roosting at night, and eating throughout the day, without regard presence of human
They all died the death of pets, accident or overstuffing Poor little should never 
have vi. sited the settlements ;they were too fragile, and too delicate for the 
contact of human hands. No one seemed to know where this flight of
oiseaux mouches" came from. T,ho, day after their first appearance being cold and 
cloudy, they 'were no ~more to be seen, having disappeared as suddenly, agAhey came. It is strange, at what a great distance,from land, these little creatures are occardyna By seen w hen, more than two hundred miles out at sea, Texas and
Havanna, a humming-bird settled the rigging, of the Dolphin. ,
As on board the steamer, we found the slave question the principal topic of 
conversation among the good citizens of Galveston. Many of the latter maintained, that 
indi. Viduals have no right to interfere with their lawful property, and
were so indignant with the abolitionists, that they banished principal philanthropist 
from the city. The person in question was conveyed boat to the mainland, and 
there turned adrift to preach to the inhabitants
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GULF OF MEXICO.
of the woods and prairies. Another, a black man, and by trade I believe a barber, 
had likewise incurred the Aispleasure of the inhabitants of Galveston, by 
advocating jile cause of his race in the market-place. He declared life was in danger, 
and pretending to be a British subject, claimed the protection British minister. one 
jyf their own most respected townsmen did not escape their vvrath, having 
declared himself opposed to jhe abolition of slavery, but still inclined to hear the
arguments pro and con, was ordered to be silent on the subject. lffe replie~d, that 
his was a free country, where every one liad a right to express his opinions.. This right
appa. rently was not acknowledged, for lie was put into a boat and sent to the 
mainland: strange occurrences in a country-calling itself free.
- The National Guard of Galveston were kept constantly in battle-array, and paraded 
through the town. The guns, too, were kept in readiness to protect the town against 
tile fleet which was every day expected from Campeachy Vera Cruz. I cannot say that 
the artillery ,at the forts presented a very formidable appearance - there vere'not
more than a dozen eighteen-pounders, one or two ,of which had been lying 
harmlessly on the sand ever since we had been here. yacht we fancied ourselves
quite secure, concluding that the British flag would be treated with due respect. I 
had little real expectation, however, of seeing any thing of the Mexicans, and was
inclined to think that the excitement would end as it had *gun, in words.
Our drives into the prairie were now much more agreeable than before. The 
weather was warmer, and the land much drier; and also more living inhabitants;
blue-birds, cardinals, &e. We shot some pelicans, and fterwards reproached 
ourselves for our cruelty, for they ~were quite useless for stuffing, or any other
purpose. -There were inimense'flocks of curlew and plover, who evidently on their 
passage to some other clime. The prairie was becoming quite gay flowers; in many
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TEXAS AND TUB
places, ~ however, they were setting it on fire, and a very curious sight it was,
shect of fire flying rapidly before the wind. The cactus, or prickly pear, was beginning 
to blossom; and I expected in a few weeks I should recog. ruse, some of
the glowing descriptions which travellers have given of, the country. Alas! I had
chance of realizing,my anticipations,for we were soon to take our leave of Gulf 
pilot had returned; he found at Aransas only six feet of water on the bar,
and at Matagorda seven; he gave it as his opinion, however,
that there were times when vessels drawing eight feet might enter the latter port with 
safety. I Tile Galveston pilot fell Mexicans at Copano; fortunate circumstance for 
him, for they gave him fifteen dollars for some tobacco, cost him but three. This 
was a good 11 operation," and they begged him to return as soon as
possible, to do some more business, promising to purchase, same terms, as many 
thousand bales of tobacco as he could manage to bring. circumstance shows us 
the trade with Mexico is likely to be when peace is established.
1, shall not be surprised to bear, before any long has elapsed, that the valuable 
mines (I believe of gold, silver, and copper,) which are to be found in this country, are 
worked; to say nothing of tbe coal mines, which perhaps, I ought to have
placed first in the scale, at least of usefulness. When population increases, and 
the de. mand for wood, for steamers, building, &c., becomes proportionately grreat, this necessary article will no douk also becon~e -scarce, and the 
working of the coal mines will, then be a work of absolute necessity.
Cedar is the commonest and cheapest wood here, besides being much the most useful for building purposes. It is very valuable in the erection of wooden piles, which are exposed to the action of water, as no insects or marine animals will adhere
to it. This wood is the one most in use, too, for firing; and as you pass near the
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GULF OF MEXICO.
houses where there are fires burning, the perfume, is delicious-
on my last day at Galveston, I passed near the burying ground, and a sad sight 
indeed it was! I should not bave been aware of its proximity, had I not 
perceived a human skull under my horse's feet!, On looking round, I saw many 
similar relics, and hurried from the spot with a feeling of dismay and
horror, which it would be diffieult~ to describe. The reason for desecration of the 
dead is as follows. The sandy soil has so little depth, that no sooner are the dead 
deposited in the ground, than tiley are denuded of their light covering, and the
sea, Nvhich washes the li'llits Of the burial-ground, claims its share of these neglected remains. The consequence is, that the adjoining land is actually 
strewed by human bones in every direction.
I stood upon the place of graves! There, where eternal ocean laves The 
land-bound shore. The wind's low moan Through the long grass was heard
alone Save when at  intervals the sea Rippled in mournful melody. I was 
alone! ineet spot fbr thought! In that deep solitude, when nought Reminded me of life! Far off The city's tumult, and the scoff Of laughing crowds. They are forgot Who
lie in silence here; where, not A stone or mound is raised to show Who are the 
dead that sleep below ! Whose are the bones that whitening lie, Sad relies
of mortality, Strew'd on the flow'ring herb, or prest By heedless feet ? -a 
heartless jest 'To some!-I look upon tbe,sea! Its waves are dancing in their glee,
And sporting bright and merrily.
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TEXAS AND THU
But mark! whose is the brainless skull, That, like the wreck'd and useless hull
Of some once stately ship, floats on ]Buoyant in its emptiness? None, 
None answer, and the lightsome wave Sports with the outcast of the grave.
Now on the crescent foam it rides, Now Ineath the dashing wave it hides:
And now it slowly onward glides;Say, busy man! Is this the end Of all thy labour ? To descend Into a nameless grave ; no tear Shed on thy poor and lonely bier.
Forgotten in the busy strife Of those w ' ho were thy friends in life. What now thy country's cause to thee ? Thou reek'st not that she now is free.
Boldly thou strove in freedom's cause; High (at the murmuring applause
Of wondering nations,) beat thy heart; Now low, and hnsh'd, and still, and part
Of that dear earth thou bled'st to free A lesson to posterity!
Our last act and deed before we left Galveston, was watering and victualling the 
Dolphin. A large supply of salted beef was taken in, which I should not have
mentioned, but for an accident  which occurred in consequence, and which gave us a good deal of uneasiness. During the process of stowing the meat, it was necessary
to remove some of the iron ballast, and for this purpose, instrument metal 
is made use of, about a yard long, with a handle at one end, and a hook at the
other. One of the men was tugging away at the handle rod, and another was lying 
down in the act of assisting him, when unhappily, the iron bent slightly: the iron
ballast immediately slipped off, and the. man who held it fell backwards. The consequence was, that
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GULF OF MEXICO.
the iron hook entered the eye of the unfortunate man. By ill luck, our doctor was on 
shore at the time, and did ,ot rettirn to the yacht for some hours afterwards, when he
did riot at all approve of the treatment practised by the Texan surgeon, who had been 
summoned when the accident happened. The agony the poor man suffered
,,ust have been very great; he fainted away almost immediately, and soon became 
delirious. He was a long tilne on the sick list, and eventually lost the sight of his
injured eye. confess, I should not much like to trust a serious case
in the hands of the Texan doctors. Some of, them may be clever and well educated, 
the medicines in general I believe to be bad, in spite of their frequent announcement
as cargo, and the words, 11 drugs" and 44 chemicals" appended stores.
A death by violence had lately taken place in, this country; and, as the 
circumstances under which it,oc. eurred caused a considerable excitement
narration, and the. more so as they throw Vome light on the reputed 
frequency of violent deaths in Texas. I A Colonel H-,mild benevolent man, quarrel
(as even the inildest men will sometimes have) with one of his neighbours. 
no means of ad, their differences; and, accordingly, Colonel was informed by
his adversary, in the usual terms, that he should take early opportunity of shooting
dead. Colonel If- was not aparticularly nervous man and for some time after this 
pleasant announcement 'had been made, he went about, perfectly convinced, 
character of his foe, that he would not fail to keep it to the letter. After a while, 
however, the suspense and became too much for his spirits, he resolved
pat an end to the affair. Acting upon this resolution, his opportunity, waylaid 
his adversary', and man as be was-put a period to his existence., affair, murder
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TEXAS AND THE
prejudiced and ill-informed historians, is after all Texan mode of managing a, duel; 
it certainly differ, from - way of settling a quarrel, but when all is said I.do
not know that it is a much. worse form of manslaughter.
I have omitted to mention the extreme ease with which divorces are obtained in 
Texas. Puring our residence of only a few months in the country, no less
than forty, couple were disunited7 and this merely by taking oath on both sides of 
mutual incompatibility of temper. This circumstance ought generally known;
as it may be Of service to those similarly situated, learn that by a, six months' 
residence in Texas, they may enjoy the benefit of this liberating system.
I received a present on this iny last day in the republic, which, though of little 
value, I prized as a proof of kindness of heart and good feeling. Mrs. Kelsey, the
wife of the captain of the little Houston steamer, sent cap of her own knitting; I 
had particularly admired it when on. board, and it was worked with great
labour and skill. She looked for no return; and the circumstance was the more 
gratifying, because I had seen her but once, and did not 
expect to renew myi acquaintance with her. Such things are 
not common in the 14 old country."
if we set off such instances of good will as these (and I,could mention many others) 
against the trifling annoyance, occasioned by the apparent familiarity and want
Of refinement, on the part of these young settlers, we shall be more satisfied with 
the real good we findamong them.
I one day heard a rough Texan, dressed like a ploughman, ask one of our.English 
friends for the loan of his gun for a few days; ana another, trusting (and not too
much) to his good nature, said, on another occasion, now, Commodore, I want 
you to lend, me your bedroom for a short time,'if you please." It is the coa.
sciousness of their own extreme willingness to confer
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GULF OF MEXICO.
similar obligations, which renders these people so little scrupulous in making somewhat exorbitant demands of
I must draw my Texan annals to a conclusion. jVe were, Yankees say, 11 bound to 
go," and to le,ve this land of free hearts and untrammelled actions, for one which 
despot's sway -and for a colony jvhere the broad hand authority presses.down the 
energies of the people.
Let me, before I bid adieu to the shores where we had so long ridden at anchor, waft good wishes to the land, and to its inhabitants.
May the c ' ountry - go ahead," and prosper-may wise men counsels and brave 
men direct her arms above all, may her financial and commercial character be
unsullied; then. will her word be, good in the Great Exchange-House of Nations, arid 
she may hope to stand glone*-an independent republic-a great people among
the powers that are. The opinion that Texas is incapable of standing without
the assistance of some established power, prevalent possible annexation to 
the United Sates is exciting much interest. It is to be hoped, many reasons, 
she may never become a portion of the Union; but thal event appears
now to be not far off
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TEXAS AND THE
CHAPTER XXVIII,
Departure from, Galveston for the Havanna- Severe gale Appearance sea 
under its influence-Dangerous navigation of the Gulf of Florida-Incidents on board 
the yacht -Arrival at the Havanna-Moro Castle-The bay-Visit Spanish 
authorities-Dinner on shore at the Consul-General's - Heat of the climate - Manners, habits and amusements of the ladies -Visit to the Captain-General Valdez.
flail to thy face and odours, glorious sea! Twere thanklessness in me 
to bless thee not. flow welcomer Thy murmurs than the murmurs of the world!
Though like the world thou. fluctiiatest, thy din To me is peace, thy 
restlessness repose.CAMPBELL,
March 31st {1844/03/31} -We took.our pilot, Simptom, again On board
and made sail. The men, as before, were busily employed in shifting ballast. A north 
wind had been blowing for some days, but the weather was calm and fine; aftar 
crossing the bar, the pilot was discharged, and I then really felt that I had
bidden adieu to Texas,
Gradually the low shores of Galveston receded from our view; I stood on deck as 
long as I could catch a glimpse of the land, and continued my speculative reveries on her present and future fate, till other objects arrested my attention,
and till the horizon was bounded only by the wide and quiet ocean. I entertained such 
disagreeable recollections of the September gales, that I rather dreaded putting to 
sea in March, but our master assured me that the vernal equinox was not at
all to be, dreaded, and I felt my courage strengthened. All this day, and the beginning 
the next, I had reason to. be satisfied with the weather
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GULF OF MVXICO.
and reposed in confident belief of a pleasant and quiet voyage to Havanna.. Alas! for 
the short-sighted anticipaf a woman!-in the afternoon of,the 1st of April {1844/04/01}
was quietly eatin my luncheon in the cabin 'l heard inct preparations for a. 
gale, darkness crept over the sky and I heard the voice of the mate Take in a reef in
fore stay-sail;" I never liked the sound ~of the reefing process; we always 
carried a great deal of sail, and I 6pw it was never reduced without absolute necessity.
10oon after, it was I Take in another reef in the foresail, look alive!" tile lowering of 
the mainsail soon followed, by this tirne it was blowing a violent gale of wind.
,The sea, in an incredibly short space of time, had risen to a great height, and instead 
of enjoying the placid motion of tile, waves, reposing on my couch on the deck, I had to
hold on and devote all my energies to prevent myself rolling about in all 
directions. There is certainly the efforts made b landsmen and women to keep
themselves steady on the, deck ~uring a gale of wind. Our present storm, indeed, was
really no laughing matter; at a late hour I retired to, rest, continued putting up my head 
out of my cabin every minutes to inquire how the wind was, and whether e was
any chance of its abating. On such occasions is these, the appearance 
of daylight was always hailed by me with unwonted satisfaction; I liked to see 
situawith my own eyes, and to have the power, applying for information to 
one or other of the of course they always comforted me with that it was nothing ~--
it was only blowing fresh; ,,'Ahis always reassured me, but more than all the 
to see their cheerful faces, and to hear that they ould joke. 
morning of the 2d of April {1844/04/02} went deck early; it was not seven 
o'clock, but I had had, a sleepless night  so I wrapped a large cloak about me, and
aggered up to see the aspect of affairs;  -and a  scene desolation it was! The 
decks were wet. and slippery with the spray; every thing looked out of order
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TEXAS AND THE
and, forlrn; the watch on deck had on their rough pilot-coats and southwesters well 
secured under their chim, and coaching under the bulwark, leeward, to avoid
the constant showers of spray. The sea was of orle dull heavy lead6uhne, except 
where the summits of the huge tumbling waves, were crested with a snow-white,
foam. -, It is one of the most fearful effbets of the tremell. dous waves in 'a heavy 
head-sea, that your view Is bounded only by high walls of inky-looking water, Around
and ahead the prospect is circumscribed by these tremendous bulwarks of the raging 
element, which secin ever on the point, of engulfing you in their descent. As 1-1 stood
on the poop, and the bowsprit pitched into the hollow pit of waters, it seemed almost 
a, perpendicular dc,scent, and I closed my eyes for a moment as though all over.
Before eight o'clock, a second reef was taken in the fore-topsail; there was no break 
in the. cloads till about noon, when the sun for a moment appeared through a
thin veil of gray. In the afternoon the weather became much more moderate, reefs
shaken out, and I began once more to feel happy and at ease. The sweU,
however, was still very heavy, and we, were told was likely to continue so, the Gulf 
of Florida not being notorious for the quiet ,of, its seas.
 We I saw a great deal of the gulf-weed, which floated Past us in large quantities. This 
sea-weed is very light an&pretty when firit taken out of the water, but it soon
becomes shapeless, and will not bear drying. I believe number of shipwrecks have 
occurred in the Gulf stream; there are fearful currents and eddies, and ships
are freouently drivew otit of their course. From narrowness of the channel the sea is 
always in a state of commotion, and After,'the violence of the late g~lc, the
waves were more fearful than ever. We were a14 I mean idlers,"' more or less 
prostrated, either by internal or external malaise. Poor Monsieur de C- was quite,
hors de combat; with the best intentions of I makink~ a kood
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GULF OF MEXICO.
fight against the enemy. He never tasted food for five days moment I am at a loss 
to understand how fie contrived to exist through such a period, of 
inanition. ~4,s usual, we went through the ceremony of every meal, regularly as if we 
wete on land. The cook- was never put Out by weather, and let ship roll about as 
would, he never made any alteration, and his entrees The table, which
good and as , numerous ever.sometimes caused a little delay swinging One
tile consumption of the viands; often, when on the point securing a mouthful on our 
forks, the well-spread board would mount up towards the ceiling on one side, and we 
were forced to wait its pleasure before we resumed our rneal, This
was amusing enough to me, and, as no olle was very hungry time, the delay 
did not so Inuch signify; but the noise is not to be described. I berieve the 
Dolphin to be (without partiality) as quiet as a ship can well be, but the
masts and bulkheads began, after their long rest, like giants refreshed, to labour out 
their peculiar noises with a spirit unknown before. I was told it was nothing, and 
certainly, after the first night or two, slept soundly and heard it no more. How we were
flung about! my swinging cot rocked to and fro like an insane tiling, whilst I felt 
myself a passive victim to its sport. One night I found myself, with a sudden shock,
prostrated on the deck: I had been sleeping soundly, and could not make out 
in the least what had happened. soon however, ascertained that the lashings of my cot had om the constant strain upon them: luckily upon the deck was not 
felt by my head, lashing at the feet that had given way. It not pleasant, however, to 
find oneself, in the dead of forty -five. The occurrence the night, in an angle of 
recalled to my mind some descriptions of practical jokes, related by Captain 
Marryatt, and I thought how hard 'it for unwary midshipmen, to be cut 
down. at the head, n they least expected it; the escape from concussion
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TEXAS AND THE
of the brain must be, narrow. It is to be inferred, frou, its unfrequent occurrence, that 
the young gentlemen in the navy, half a century ago, were not verY Suseeptibl,
in that organ.
April the 3d, {1844/04/03} was rather squally, but it was only single reef
weather, and I did not mind it. 4th, {1844/04/04} light breezes all reefs," delightful 
sound! but it was not to lu'~ and during the three following days blew hard enough, 
current was running very strong, and we were driven forty
miles out of our course. I believe that nothing but the violence of the gale would 
have induced our poor passenger to come on deck ; I had not seen him for four day,
when on a sudden he made his appearance on tile companion ladder; sickness and 
suffering had made s~d havoc with his outward man, they had with most of us.
The weather on the 8th {1844/04/08} was more moderate, and in the
morning several sail were in sight. Itwasdelight. ful to watch them,--to speculate on what they inight be, and to feet that this stormy stage of our aquatic 
Journey was so nearly at an end. At eleven o'clock rnn; at the masthead sung out 
land ahead." The wind mu SE. half east; the current, was driving us to tile eastward. 
We gradually neared the land, and at five o'clock P1. heard the. welcome order to 
clear anchors. Sm after we sighted Moro Castle; the high lands
were beautiful; once more we rejoiced in the sight of tile waviu,; tops~ of the cocoanut 
trees, and felt the hot sun of the tropics. But we had no time for admiration, the 
British ensign was hoisted and flowing gaily schooner had passed the Moro 
Castle, and was sailing ua between the closely-packed shipping in such a perfett 
manner ! She certainly excited great admiration, if we could judge by
the faces and marked attention of thoK, on board the ships she passed. I 
was prepared by descriptio"n for the striking appearance of the 
harbour, particularly of its entrance. The Moro Castle is on the left, a high imposing
building. On the right is the fort of Punteo, and the prisons built by Tacon, vdien
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GULF OF 2 MEXICO.
he ~ Captain-General of, Cuba. ~, The bay,  one thousand ships anchor with, an
Opens 6,ut, beyond'this " narrow entrance. Our -master almost ways made a point 
of taking a pilot, and this WA 1 8 one of the few occasions on which he 
deviated from his rule. The yacht, after threading t4e mazes of this
difficult navigation, brought up at six o'clock P.m- in Seven fathoms water; decks were 
immediately cleared; and sails furled, and we prepared once more for a quiet life,
There was so much to interest, and to attract attention, that i stood on deck 
absolutely staring at all the interestiug objects I saw. There were ships of every nation
,and'we were soon boarded by a number,of dingy-looking men from a 
wretched-looking boat bearing the Spanish flag. , The deck of the 
schooner was soon crowded hk these officials, for such supposed thO were, Aile,
i6ino rushed below, examining her in all directions; An,order was given at last 
that no more should come on board.- They could not all have a right to board,us,
and, civility - evidently was not the object of their visit.
Thad been so lonz in democratic countries that I was quite rejoiced at the sight 
of some faint symbols of royalty. And, J confess my weakness) the dirty crown, 
on the still 'More discoloured flag, was quite refreshingr to my  To he sure, it 
was but the crown of degraded Spain, the lowest monarchies of the earth, 
I respected it nevertheless. I began almost to despair of being ever left, to 
ourselves. No sooner was the curiosity of one'm Party satisfied than 
another boat-load, made its 'appearance. They dispersed themselves over ever . y 
part ,of the vessel, and poked their black and tanned faces into hole, and corner, 
filling our eyes and noses with tobacco ~ smoke, and defiling the white decks of 
the Dolphin nwith "the'odious consequences of their, national habiL,
The fact was', that they could not be made to zompreWnd nature our craft. She was 
armed suspicious- , -but then we were evidently uot,, traders ? No--they concluded
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TEXAS AND THE
must be concealed cargo somewhere, and consequently hunted about in all possible 
and impossible places for our supposed, merchandise. Monsieur de C-, with the 
distnal, recollections of his late sufferings fresh upon hirn, remarked && I think it very 
natural~--of course they find it impossible to comprehend how 
any rational beings can be sea-sick for pleasure!" The Spaniards evidently could
not I understand it; they shrugged their shoulders, looked puzzled, and with most 
dissatisfied faces returned to their boats. Then came the sharks in 
the shape of bum-boat-women, entreating and coaxing the sailors to buy of
them; jokes were cut as they leant over the ship's side, now and then, when some 
adventurous individual completed his purchase, it was handed up in triumph, and
the fortunate possessor began to discuss its real value coolly and at leisure. My 
attention was di. verted from this rather amusing scene perceiving an English man-of-
war's boat pulling towards us. She contained, besides rowers, only a midshipman, a 
small boy, who if only as a clean countryman of our own, we were delighted to see.
He had been despatched frorn the Thunder surveying-ship, Captain Barnett, which 
was lying, near, to make inquiries, and to ask if we were the t, Charlotte" yacht?
Having replied in the negative, (and it seemed that our advent had caused Much, 
speculation among our countrymen,) we thanked Captain Barnett through his
envoy for some kind and civil offers he had made us, our new acquaintance took 
his.leave., Except the Romney, receiving-ship, the Thunder only English man-of-
war then at Havanna., After dinner, a. very polite aidecamp, attended by a Yankee 
interpreter, (very boastful and very loqu& cious,) came to make inquiries
afler the health of the crew. The surgeon made out his statement" that we were all 
tolerably well and that no immediate anxiety, need be felt on our account; a clean
bill of health was therefore given us, and we,were graciously allowed the liberty 
of going onshore. Early thenext morning, Mr.
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GVLF OF MEXICO.
Houstoun took advantage, Of the Permission and called on Mr. Crawford, Her 
Britannic Majesty's Consul-General lie had letters to deliver, and we had the 
Pleasure of dining at his house the same afternoon.
'rbijg Nvas called the cool season at Havanna; no one complained of heat, indeed 
some of the old'inhabitants ced it quite temperate. I could not understand to
me it was most oppressive. We had again recourse to our awning, and as one 
proof among many, that 'our sensations did not deceive us, the fish that: 
was bought, alive in the market, at ten in the morning, was uneatable
state at four o'clock on the same day. ffow fearful must be the heat during the reign 
of, the yellow fever! The healthy season is said to commence November, to last 
February, so that I fear we bad slightly encroached upon limits of the yellow fever 
d,minion.,. The dews here are, remarkably heavy; the deck early in the evening being
quite wet, as though heavy rain had fallen during the day, and drops fell heavily from 
masts and rigging. These dews are suploed to be particularly injurious Europeans,and the latter be particularly careful not to expose themselves to 
their influence. It is tile custorri at Havanna to dine early, and sensible custom it is. 
ladies remain at home during the heat of the day, lounging over 
their chocolate and cigars, or taking their accustomed siesta. When the sun izag 
nearly set, their life of movement (if such it can be called) begins. Then it
is that they enjoy their drive6l, and pay their visits of ceremony or affection. 
After dining, with the Consul, Mrs. Crawford's carriages conreyed the whole party to 
drive on the Passeo, the fashionable promenade of the city. Almost the
only carriage in use is the volante. Itis, a description of vehicle peculiar
I believe, to Cuba; and I'must, therefore, attempt description of it, for the 
benefit of those wbo have nothad an opportunity of seeing it. It is in shape not unlike a 
cabriolet on extremely high wheels; it is six or seven feet
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TEXAS AND THE
Jm,height, and the wheels are above the head of the occupant. , The shafts are 
extremely long, and the effect is light and graceful. The volante is driven by a
postilion, almost always a black, and his dress is the gayest can be imagined; gold 
and silver are spread with a layi-sh hand on his person, and red and blue, and every
gay and gaudy colour is chosen for his adornment: the Postilion de Longjumeau would sink into obscurity by the side of these black performers. 
Sometimes a second horse is attached as an outrigger, a pretty effect; 
this, however, is not allov~ed within the precincts of the city. Gentlemen are not 
often seen with ladies in the volante; two of the latter generally occupying the only 
seat, which is extremely wide, The rate at which the postilions drive, 
considering the narrowness of the streets, is surprising. The mules here
are more esteemed than the horses; they are many of them. beautiful animals; 
and I saw some of a cream colour, which I admired extremely. I believe very 
high prices are given for them; as much as from sixty to two hundred pounds. I was 
delighted with the appearance both of the ladies and their showy equipages, as 
they assembled on the Passeo. The volante itself is much ornamented, with silver, and the harness is always  plated, wherever plating can. by any possibility, be 
applied. The wear the maniilla, and their costume, in their volantes, consists (as it 
appeared to me almost de r~vueuq of White muslin decollete with short sleeves, and 
neither gloves nor mittens. Their dark hair is always beautifully, shining and well 
dressed; their heads are well, set on, and at, the back hang the elegant folds of the 
lace mantilla., Every one has something to say of the surpassing beauty of the Spanish women, -their eyes! their, figures! their walk! are all described as something 
exquisite, that no women, of more northern climes, can venture to compete with 
them. I confess I was te rr ibly d isappointed by these far-famed beauties. volante 
another rolled by,and 61 1 ot
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GULF OF iggXICO,
one tolerable face, take it altogether, hid I seen. I ~hate no doubt that the extreme 
heat of the climate, to a certain degree, increases the natural duskiness of 
their complex-: ions; certainly,, in daylight, they were, I thought, much too yeIlow
to be pleasing. By daylight, however, they ~Rre rarely to be seen; it is at night that
they are viewed to advantage. They all use rouge, I was told, from early 
childhood-but their black eyes, which, are magnificent, require this foreign aid to 
make them sparkle, I saW some reputed beauties in the morning, and thouglit thein 
plain; while at nigbt, I could not believe theyn to be the same persons, and felt
inclined almost to change my opinion I had formed in the morning.
The walk of the Spanish women, which is described, as being so peculiarly 
graceful, I bad little opportunity of seeing. No lady walks Havanna: nor do they even
deseend from their volantes when on shopping expeditions: naturally 
indolent, this relaxing climate seems to~ deprive them little degree of energy
which nature~ bestows on them. Their accomplishments are as limited, as
their sphere of action. They whisk about their large fans with surprising 
dexterity, and this seems to be one of the principal employments lives. speak 
little bad French, do a little indifferent religion, get through a considerable 
amount of flirtation, and not a little scandal. The evening drive on the Passeo is the grand event of every day; gossip then goes on at a great, rate; passer-by scanned 
and scrutinized; appointments are made, and reputations are sneered away.
Great care-is taken during the drive, that the long white~ drapery should hang out over 
the step of the volante being etiquette for the flouncings and embroideries to
gathered within the carriage. I was war ed of by a young lady with 
whom I was driving, and who at seeing me endeavouring to save my gown
frotii dust, and the contact of passing wheels. The Passeo de Tacon was constructed
the governor of that name really a most striking promenade; there being
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TEXAS AND Tilt:
fountains, and statues, and every thing requisite, to inake dejilThtful city drive : on 
Sundays it is crowded by volantes, both private and hired, Tacon 
made many Improvcments in Havanna and its neighbourhood. It 
IS a pity that this fine.colony should not oftener have wiser heads to direct it, and that
a government better qualified, should not'exist in the Mother Country,  viceroy.
In the Plaza des Armas, which is a large handsome square opposite the palace of the 
viceroy, a band of music plays almost -nightly. The performance struck me
as good; but the choice of music was not made with good taste, at least the fancy of 
captain-general, who selects the~airs, must be a lugubrious to judge ofthe dismal
sounds that saluted our ears. The preponderance of brass instruments is much too 
great, and I was soon glad to escape,from. the uproax, refresh inyself with an ice
at a cafe near the Plaza. This custom, of cating ices, which are brought to them in 
their volantes, is a fivouritf, diversion of the Havanna ladies; gentlemen, mean
while, offer their assistance, and are rewarded with smiles,
and meaning flicks with the ever-ready fan.
On Thursday, Monsieur de C_ and Mr. Houstoun dined Captain-General Valdez, by 
whom they 'were received with the greatest kindness hospitality. It is not etiquette 
Viceroy to receive ladies at dinner, nor is. be himself allowed to individual, let 
his rank be what it may. I was told that, the Viceroy did not, enjoy the forced monotony
of-, his existence; he is unmarried, but Madame Olivar, the wife Spanish minister 
Mexico, is residing with him, and assists in doing the honours of 
the palace. Thoug4 not, permitted to, invite ladies to dine with him, thi's, Prohibition
does not extend to evening parties,, and I,~ tended several soirees there, glad to 
make, acquaintance of Madame Olivar, who is person. During some of these 
visits, I learned a gqo' deal of the present state of Cuba-its products, and, the
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GULF OF MEXICO.
policy Spain with rezard to the colony. My principal informant was a grave, 
sensible old Spaniard,"~,vvhose name,, however, I have totally forgotten. He took,, 
compassion on my evident want of information subject, I felt much obliged him.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Historical notice of Cuba-Commerce-Cruel treatment of slaves-Creoles-Revolt of the 
Matanzas-Anticipated revolt of the black population-Exclusive state of Society
Sugar Counts"-Animals, birds, noxious insects, and reptiles-Railroad-Copper, 
silver, and coal mines-splend , id scenery-Cuba indebted for its 
prosperity to Viceroy Tacon -Plaza de Toros-The cathedral.
Never may from our souls one truth depart,,That an accursed tbing it is 
to, gaze On prosperous tyrants with a dazzled eye; Nor, touched with due abhorrence 
of theirguilt, For whose dire ends tears flow, and blood is spilt, And justice labours in 
extremity, Forget thy weakness, upon which is built, 0 wretched throne of tyranny!
WORDSWORTH.
ts discovery Christopher Columbus, Cuba contested possession between England Spain. 1n the year 1760, the island was dependency of the Spanish government, 
Floridas were ceded to Great Britain in exchange. It  rich and most valuable island ; 
the soil is Very productive yields two and sometimes three-crops of corn year
Of the extreme fertility of the island, idea, till, from lofty eminence, he casts
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TEXAS AND THE
his eye over the beautiful aspect of its fertile plains and Wooded hills.
Though early in the year when I was there, tile "country was covered with 
sweet-smelling and beautiful plants, while already the shrubs and trees were 
filling the air with the perfume of their fragrant blossoms. The following are some of the principal articles of export. Sugar, rum, tobacco, cocoa, coffee, molasses, 
great quantity of salted meat, and fish, as well as grain many kinds, are, 
imported.
slave-trade, as is well luiown, flourishes in this country, and to its 
existence may, I think, be attributed many of the degrading vices, and pectiliar 
defects which debase the general character of the white inhabitants of
'Cuba. The Spaniards have the reputation of showing more kindness to their 
slaves than the white masters in other slave countries. This may be the case with the
domestic slaves, as the black population certainly look particularly fat, sleek, 
and well fed. It was at Havanna, however, that I first saw the marks of stripes on the
shoulders of a woman, and I cannot describe the effect that the sight produced 
upon me, and the horror against the unmanly wretches who could thus punish a woman, I once witnessed in the neighbourhood of Havanna, degradation of a negro 
slave preparatory to receiving punishment: he was being dragged along with a rope
round,,hi, neck, like some refractory criminal. Similar, and I f6ar much worse 
instances of cruelty are, alas! too frequently occurring in the plantations.
The proportion of negroes to white men is greatly in favour of the former. Tile 
policy adopted in regard to both creoles and nogroes, is injudicious; no attempts
being made to conciliate the good will of either. The iron hand of military and 
despotic power is the only, rule; and were it not for that,,there is no dou-bt,but 
colony would soon pass from the hands of its present masters. No Creoles are 
ever employed in any high or honourable offices, nor are they allowed any 
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GULF OF MEXICO.
responsibility or share in the affairs Of government ; thus this almlerOus class of the 
inhabitants are rendered disaffected, and ready to join in any scheme of revolt and,
moreover, the creoles are many of them possessed "great wealth, which causes 
thern to be infinitely, dangerous as enemies. It is said that the negro population
are constantly on the eve of revolt, and the consciousness this,being probably the 
case, keeps the government in lierpetual hot water. regular troops consist of 
only ten thousand men, while there are six. hundred thousand
blacks, tendered desperate by oppression, and readyat any
moment to turn upon their rulers. The Spanish government in Europe seem-, but little 
aware of the volcano, which is so near bursting beneath their overstrained and 
injudicious rule.
Not long ago there was a well-ordered and nearly,surcessful insurrection of the 
Matanzas negroes. They behaved with great courage and resolution, and
having obtained some slight advantages, they secured themselves in a strong 
position, frorn which they did not emerge till they bad obtained conditions 
extremely favourable to themselves. The authorities of Havanna, are
now evidently roused to a sense of danger, for even word freedom is suppressed, 
and the fine national, air of 11 Libertad," is not allowed to be sung. It is 
vain, however, to suppose that such precautions will prevent the silent
longing for freedom from finding a voice among a people goaded to desperation by a 
sense of their wrongs. The coloured population of Cuba may be subdued crushed
for a time, but the smouldering fire will some day burst forth flrom the trampled 
ashes, and not all the power of Spain will be able to stay its 'fury.
There are a great many natives of the Canary Islands they are, said to be 
good, well-disposed people and, as servants, they valued faithful intelligent.
The different classes of society at Havanna, are kept, from all I could learn, 
strictly apart. There are &'few
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TEXAS AND THE
still remaining of the real old grandees of Spain; halve heard persons 
well acquainted with the manners I and habits of Spanish families declare, 
that Such are to be found now only at Havanna. In Spain, theuigh the Mother 
Country,) the race is said to be e,tint. Qreat and unqualified contempt is 
felt and expressed by these aristocratic families for the " nouveaux
ricAes ' - who, swelling with pomp and pride, lord it over their humbler neighbours. 
Many of the latter, however, owners. , sugar am great landed proprietors, and slave
they are called ; and the epithet is remarkably well-chosen, as it tells, 
in many instances, the tale of their increase of fortune and at the same time 
conveys an id% of the possibility of their titles and riches melting
away as speedily as they have arisen. 11
One of these 11 sugar noblemen, (his name I have for. gotten, but he is 
said to be the richest man in the island,,, made his fortune the importation of 
slaves-a licensed dealer in human flesh. I looked at him as a sort
of Monster, when I reflected upon the vast amomit of human suffering of which 
he had been the acting cause.
The alligator, the sea-cow, and the turtle, are all found in 'the island of 
Cuba. The latter, however, are not ria. mer6us; and the supply for consumption at
Havanna is brought from the island of Nassau.
11' saw birds in" endless variety; canaries, cardinals, nightingales, linnets, 
parroquets; in short, every thing that can be imagined gay and harmonious. I Could
scarcely help fancying it the pleasant month of June air was so sweet and 
soft; while the song of birds filled my imagination with memories of past
spring.times. ,,Now each creature joyes the other Passing happy dayes and 
howers. One birde reports unto another In the fall of silver showers ; Whilst 
the earth (our common mother) Hath her bosome deckt with flowers."
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GULF OF MEXICO.
A great drawback to these spring delights were the fearful number of noxious 
insects, and reptiles; snakes of the worst kind, scorpions, centipedes, and I can
not tell W-J,at besides. The persevering bloodthirsty musquitoes were
already rife, but happily they did not venture much on board the yacht.
A railroad has been in existence,for some time in Cuba; nding to a distance of fifty 
miles between Havanna and Guines, It traverses a not very 
level line of country, and there are several considerable cuts hills, and also a tunnel 
tolerable length. These things speak well for the industry resources Cuba people 
- for even a little appearance of energy shows well among the 
enervated denizens of the West Indies. Extensive valuable coal mines, as well as
those containing copper and silver, have been discovered in
Cuba: these must be a source of iminense wealth, and there is
no want of ready money to work thern. The railroad traverses beautiful line Country, 
diversified with cocoa-trees, and innumerable other plants, except within the 
tropics. We passed in our railroad 6xcursion through extensive coffee
and other plantations of tobacco, sugar, coffee-shrubs grow very prettily, and the 
green of the leaves is rich andvaried. There is great charm to 
a stranger in seeing the wild rowth of the pine-apple, plantain, the custard-apple
the cocoa-tree. The fruit hung oni the dark boughs of the orange trees like
,, golden lamps in a green night." There were many other trees, of 
which I do not know the names, some of which were literally loaded with green fruit. 
forests are very thick, and clear rills of water trickle down the mountain
sides, refreshing one by the very siobt of their coolness.
The climate in the mountains is, I am told, healthy enough; coast we heard 
enough of its haneful effects. We wore warned not to expose ourselve" 
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TEXAS AND THE
the influence of the moon's rays; the influence Of the gentle planet being supposed 
to be particularly dangerous, and to bring on attacks of the fell disease.
I Th6-principal cities in Cuba  are Havanna, St. Jago de Cuba, Principe, and Santa 
Maria, de Punto. Therg ire several safe ports, and good anchorages, but from the
vast extent of rocks and shoals, the navigation outside is difficult, and often 
dangerous. The forts above the city are covered with palm-trees ; 
the citadel itself is very strongly armed, as well as the heights above the town,
which are bristling with arms. No Stranger is allowed to visit the arsenal, or to enter 
the fortifications; admittance I believe, being limited to'the government authorities,
and ',be garrison. I heard of a poor artist from a foreign land, who, not being aware of 
the prohibition, strayed with his colours and brushes within the works. He was
not even challenged by the sentinel, who, without other notice, fired his musquet 
at the poor man. Fortunately, the wound was not a severe one. Officers of
the British navy are especially excluded, not only from visiting the forts, but also 
from entering the ships of war. I have already mentioned Tacon, governor, as one
to whom Havanna, and indeed the island of Cuba generally, are indebted for 
much of their present peace and prosperity. This clever enterprising viceroy was
sent'from Spain some years since. He found the, colony miserable condition; there 
being but few public ,works and national buildings, those,in existence being
neglected and abused. Robbery and murder were committed with impunity, and there 
were neither guardians of the public peace, in the shape of police, nor any laws by
which justice could be effectually administered. All these evils, and many others, Tacon took upon himself to redress; he established an efficient police, by which ofl
fenders were kept in awe, and quiet was restored to the capital; he enforced obedience to the laws, protected trade, and hunted punished the bands of robbers
which before infested the country; he also built large prisons
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GULF OF MEXICO.
and enacted useful laws for their government and regulation. I have before said 
that the planting and arrangel,,at of tile public promenades his work, but tile ,ost
conspIcuous of the adornments, to which Havanna, is indebted to this 
indefatigable governor, is the Campo Militar, which is called Square Tacon; it has 
four gatess, one on each side of the square, to which name of Columbus, Cortes, 
Pizarro and Tacon. El Teatro de Tacon, as its name implies, was likewise 
erected under the late governor's auspices. It is remarka. bly handsome;
I should say about the size of our Haymarket; and ornamental part is in very 
good taste. The pit seats, which are usually occupied solely gentlemen, are 
comfortably fitted up with arm-chairs ' each one having a number appended to it.
There is good plaza de Toros, and the bull-fights of, Havanna, to be celebrated, 
though at present great complaints, are made of the scarcity of good 
bulls for the arena:-the ladies are in despair, 11 the, stupid beasts are so tame
cathedral is well worth seeing, particularly during the Holy Week, when
black kneeling figures are sprinkled Over iL4 wide pavement in all directions. The pictures it contains are scarcely tolerable, but there is an urn shown you, 
which contains, it is said, the remains of Columbus. I looked at the latter with 
great interest and respect, as the only mortal part of the great voyager,
ordained by providence to bring into light and truth so large portion of the globe.
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CHAPTER XXX.
Magnificence of private houses -Ceremonies of the Holy Week -Entrance of H. M. 
ship the Illustrious, Admiral Sir Charles Adam-High price of provisions-Fruits-High
rents-Good Friday-Race-course-Theatre of Tacon Dance on board the 
flag-ship-Our last evening at Havanna,
La faiblesse est le seul d4faut que I'on ne saurait corriger. ROCHEFOUCAULD.
THE private houses at Havanna, at least a, great many of them, magnificeriL It is the 
custom here to leave all the windows to the street open at night; the living rooms are 
most commonly on the ground-floor, and the passer-by is of course liberty to
enjoy the sight of many a gay soWe and tertullia. In towns, where such things 
and sights are unknown, a crowd would speedily be collected, but here the 
practice is so universal, that no one thinks, from mere motives of idle
cariosity, 'of stopping to look in. Acquaintances of the house, some of the guests 
may occasionally peep in at the windows", in order to ascertain if any of those 
they would wish to, meet are within, and if the result of the survey prove
satisfactory, they enter without ceremony. This seems to me a very agreeable style of 
solciety*,'Ithere are no formal reunions, and no person need enter a 
room with the chance of meeting a disagreeable or obnoxious person; it is, in my 
opinion, another great advantage, at. tending this easy mode of visiting,
that you are not compelled to remain a moment longer in house than you find it 
agreeable. Great preparations were being made for the ceremonies
of the Holy Week; the gaiety of the previous days being I
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GULF OF MEXICO.
tobe replaced by the strictest mourning and gloom. Flags of every nation were 
floating in the harbour the gaudy red and yellow of the Spaniard, the French 
tricolour, the ensigns of Hamburg, Prussia, and Belgium, nothing of our own national 
colours, which, in true loyalty to Iny country, I ought to have placed first in the
list. All these brilliant national colours, if belonging to catholic countries, are, on 
Good Friday, lowered half-mast high; the yards are canted, and the effigy of 
Judas Iscariot, after hving been hung at the yard-arm, is, with every niatk
of ignouliny and detestation, thrown headforemost into Sea. few days after our 
arrival, our kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Crawford and their party, besides Captain 
Barnett of, the Thunder, and a Spaniard or two, dined on board the yacht. Our table
spread (as usual with us in hot weather) on deck, under the shade of the awning. 
Illustrious, seventy-two, bearing the flag of the Admiral of the station, Sir Charles 
Adam, was hourly expected; indeed, to my great satisfaction, as I had had 
very little experience in naval matters, and looked forward treat to seeing a vessel 
of so large a size man(euvring her way through the narrow channel. The approach of
the expected ship was telegraphed during dinner, and shortly afterwards we saw 
her tall masts rounding the Moro Castle. The entrance to the harbour is not more'
than about three hundred yards; and there being hardly aay~wind, the entrance of 
such a ship, her tacking, &e. didlot seem by any means an easy affair. Every thing
else was f6rgotten in the interest of the sight, and in the anticipated pleasure of 
seeing more English faces in a foreign land. In spite of difficulties, the flag-ship 
came in beautifully, and came to art anchor close to the yacht. ifter dinner we went on 
shore to drive, and to shop. 1went in quest of sweetmeats, which excellent here,
Wt expensive. as all articles of food are. To us, so lately 4ccustbined to the 
cheapness of living in Texas, the high prices of necessaries seemed still more 
remarkatile. The
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TEXAS AND THE
price of a very small fowl was half a dollar, and beef tenpence a pound; the mutton 
was better flavoured than the beef, which was dry and tasteless; the vegetables 
weri. excellent, and in great variety. We had young potatoes, French beans, peas, asparagus, cauliflower, in short every summer vegetable which Europe 
produces, besides others peculiar,to the country. The oranges and pines were 
delicious, and the watermelons were not to be despised. Zapote Mamme I did not 
think a bad fruit, but the natives eat some kinds which are really detestable. The
guava, which makes so good a preserve, is, I think, quite unpleasant in a raw state, 
as to taste and smell; and I am far from approving the mango, though it looks so
tempting; there is also a purple fruit, the name of wbirh I forgot, but it is any thing 
but delicious, and another equally bad, of an ugly brown colour, resembling in ap.
pearance a potato half-baked, with its skin on. In my opinion, none of the fruits 
here are to be compared to those we eat in England, as I confess I prefer an apricot 
greatly to a banana, and a good pear to a custard-apple; indeed, many of the fruits which are considered good in Havanna, would be given only to the pigs 
in our country. Wearing apparel costs more here than it does in any place I ever
'was in; the price of long white kid gloves are two dollars, more than eight shillings a 
pair. It will he seen that the expenses of living in this city are not small, and I most
wind up my items with mentioning the rent of houses one of even tolerable size 
cannot be hired at less than from fonr to five hundred pounds a year. The washing
of clothes costs three dollars a dozen. 
The following day we paid a visit to the Admiral on board the Illustrious was 
conducted over the ship; and it being my first time of undergoing the like ceremony, I
was much Surprised al all I saw. J thought the heat, when I arrived at the midshipmen's quarters, something fearful but I suppose they soon 
become accustomed to it. We dined on board the flag-ship, and afterwards
accompanied the Admiral on shore to a soiree at the Captain.
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GULF OF MEXICO.
General's. From the morning of the Thursday before, Good Friday, till the evening 
Saturday following. the most perfect stillness reigned street-,; not a carriage was
allowed to pass through any part of the town, consequently obliged to go on 
foot to the vice-regal residence. The distance from the landing considerable; this
climate all exertion is disagreeable, and I fvlt inclined to quarrel thing that forced me 
to take exercise, let it be in what shape it would. The military band playing  square,
and mournful and tiresome airs seemed the order of the day. square crowded people, 
but prinei. pally by negroes, to whom it appeared fete day, They were all dressed 
white, and the contrast itafrorded to their black hands and faces
was very striking. The Spanish ladies, however, are dressed gayest colours,
wished to make themselves amends for the deep mourning was de rigueur to
clothe themselves on the morrow. As we left the palace, city watchmen, reckoned 
particularly good and efficient, told the hour from time to time the exception of 
their warning voices, not a sound was heard to break the stillness of the night.
During all this time, I spent my mornings on deck awning; my soft being spread 
where I could obtain the most of the refreshing breezes which, however, you feel but 
little in the harbour. I occasionally, in thle,'course of the day, received
visits from my neighbours, and thus, ~in a most indolent, enervating mode of life, the 
scorching hours passed by. 
Good Friday arrived; the guns were fired, with a dull heavy sound, and muffled drums 
with all sorts and signs of gloom and lamentation, were in full display. E wery one
ivas in black, and the churches were thronged by penitential
AboutI midday, Sir Charles Adam gave us much plcasure, by paying Dolphin visit, 
and I greatif re. gretted, that Owing to its being Good Friday, wel were
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TEXAS AND TUB
prevented fiom receiving him with a salute and all d4e,honours. strict rules, regard 
the regulation of moral conduct, are laid down by society and a great out.
cry is, raised if any unfortunate individual is so rash or so misguided as t break
them. As an instance of this- ~-no lady is permitted by the rules of decorum to drive in
her volante on the Passeo, without being protected either female companion, her 
own husband, and even her brother is not considered a proper chaperon. I
suspect that there is inore of outward show, than of real decorum, in all this vigorous 
straining after gnatlike trivialities, and I have often heard it remarked that neither
the education of the young Spanish women, nor their habitual conversation, were in 
keeping with this overstrained prudery. Mothers and elder sisters are, it is
said, in the habit of paying far too little attention to the moral education of the niore, 
juvenile, and female branches of their families; and it not uriftequently
happens, that topics of scandal are discussed, and reputations canvassed before 
them, the details of which are sufficient to blunt their moral perceptions. When it is
remembered that in this country, girls become wives, and the mothers of families at an age when in Englarad they would be still in the schoolroom, the evil of this fatal
system of education will be seen in all its magnitude
 Saturday. We took a drive on the railroad shrub I.ies of coffee bushes. The rate at 
which we travelled, was not greater than ten miles an hour and I could not help
r6joicing that we went no faster, as otherwise we should have seen much less of the 
country, which is extremely picturesque.
here is a height above the town, which it is well worth taking the tronble to ascend. 
hill, which is very steep, is crowned by a fort, and the view from it, looking
down on the city, and the - surrounding country, i$ panoramic, and very striking. The 
race-course is within~, a couple of miles of 'the town ;in the course of drive
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GULX OF MEXICO.
we paid a visit to this spot, dedicated to the gambling Pensitics of the 1, 
gentlemen sportsmen" of Havanna. It is a good and convenient course, and 
we saw several finelooking American horses in training. Bishop's garden, which we
next visited, is well worth seeing. It is crowded with oleanders, roses, verbenas, 
convolvuluses, and every sort of beautiful flowers, growing in wild and 
tangled disorder, and all in full and luxuriant blossom; the fire-flies at night were 
brilliant. The road to this paradise of flowers is thickly planted on both sides
with guava and sour-sop trees, besides cocoanut trees, palms, many of them loaded 
with green fruit. In addition to the trees I have mentioned, there are ebony, cedar, 
mahogany, and lignum vitae; Indian corn too is much cultivated, and adds not
a little to the beauty of the country.
In the evening we dined with the British Consul, and met the Admiral, and a large 
party of naval officers. .1 ought not to ornit to mention that the individual of the party
inade the greatest iinpression on me, was one of the prettiest English girls
I ever saw; her roses had not yet paled under the influence tropical sun, and she 
pleasing contrast to the sallow beauties of the island. We remained late on shore.
The following day being Sunday, we had hoped to heard divine service 
performed on board the flagship, and 'Most of the English and Protestant 
inhabitants of Havanna had assembled on board same expectation; chaplain, 
however, was too unwell to officiate. Most of the party remained on board till the
evening, I when we again paid the Passeo a moonlight visit. This was the grand 
night for theatrical -performances at Havanna, and we went with a large party to 
pretty theatre ' at Tacon, The house was crowded, and the performance, which, 
however. I thought tedious enough, Ivas much applauded. There 
was a great deal of pantomimic acting. and the scenery was remarkably 
good'. two boxe's which had been,ftcured for us'Would 
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TEXAS AND THE
scarcely hold our party, and we should have been rejoiced, and I
doubt not would many others of his atquaintance, to taken possession of the 
CaptahnGrencral's empty box. It is not etiquette for ladies to ~e ,seen 
in it, which secrned to me very strange, nor do I understand motives keeping this poor
man -so apart from the 'common enjoyments of life.
There exists here a great jealousy among naval men, before remarked, none of our 
officers are allowed on board Spanish ships, which certainly too ill-equipped,
dirty, and ill-conditioned to bear inspection. On the evening of this day we
delightful dance on board the flag-ship. There was a great deal
of beauty present, particularly among the English. Misses M-, half Spanish, unite in 
their own persons the charms of both countries, the dark brilliant eyes, betraying their
Spanish descent, while , the soft, clear complexion reminds us countrywomen.
It seems a stranze thing to assert, that cigars are as difficult'to procure, really jood, in Havanna, as in any world. The state of the case is tbis~-it is impossible
to have good cigars 11DIeSS you order them, and that also at a
considerable period of time before they are required for use. It is
well known how much time improves the flavour, smoker here uses them as do in 
Europe. It is notorious, also, that the slaves,, steal best tobacco, and cigars,
unkn6wn to their employers; the cigars, thus manufactured, excellent, high-priced
extremely cult to procure.
On the Wednesday previous to our departure we accepted invitation house of the , 
belles of Havanna," whom I have before mentioned; it was a pleasant
tertullia;" the windows opening into a dclighlfhl garden jessamine and the perfumed 
dhatura. , Dancing was going on for those who liked it, while others. irim'
in this fervid climate, preferred a state of quiescence,
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I GULF OF MExICO.
were at liberty to enjoy sweet sounds and perhaps sweeter thoughts, in indolent 
repose.
It was our last evening at Havanna, and a last evening more OT less painful 
and trying to one's feelings. We had to bid adieu to friends most kind, though lately
found, and to leave a happy spot, which it is more than probable, we should never see 
again; I do not like saying good bye ;II it - sets me on end-like," as Sam Slick says. on
our return from this scene of brilliant gaiety, I noticed, as our volante drove slowly through the suburbs, a house, the front of which was brightly lighted up; the lower windows, which were so large that they in point of fact front of the house, were wide 
open, and afforded a perfect and distinct view of the objects within. My
curiosity was excited by seeing a raised 'Platform within room, at the lower end of 
which sat two men, in mute silence. To my surprise, for who wo d have
supposed that the remains of the dead would be thus exposed to view, I saw on the 
platform. the pale face of a corpse; the stiffened limbs were stretched beneath'a
thin white covering, and in the next hour ', the form, which in the morning was endued 
with life, was to be lowered into the earth. I cannot describe the effect that
this spectacle had upon me, and bow much I was struck by the contrast it afforded to 
the scene of dancing and merriment I had so lately quitted; verily in the midst
of life we are in death ! I went on board, and tried to forget it all,-the whirling 
dance and the blank- face of the dead !-but they haunted me all night, and I was
tiad when the morning came, when I was to change this place of varied recollections 
for our own wild changing element once more.
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TEXAS AND THE
CHAPTER XXXI.
Departure from Havanna-Bermuda-St. George's Harbour
Hamilton -Bermudian Population - Whale-fishing jightful gardens-Visit to the 
Bishop of Newfoundland The Sea Grape- The Pride of India"-Ireland Harbour.
Departure for England. But bless the little fairy isle! How sweetly, after all our ills, We 
saw the sunny morning smile Serenely o'er its fragrant hills. MOORE.
FRIDAy, 20th April {1844/04/20} light breeze from the eastward We left
Havanna harbour, and passed Moro Castle at jjinol~: O'clock morning; the flag-ship 
weighed anchor at the same time, and we promised ourselves 
her company on the voyage. The sea-breeze at Havanna begins the morning,
and dies away about three or four p, x.; it is, therefore, impossible for vessels to leave 
the harbour in the intermediate time. For two davs -_Agbt we went on well
together, though in order to do ,cFe fr ntlv oblized to shorten sail. We amused
Auring these two days by talking, unintelligibly q confess, by signals, and we 
frequently within hailing distance, On the third morning looked in vain for our
1 tall friend;" we ho burnt a blue-light, during the night, which had been d14 
answered; but now, not a vestige of her towering masts seen, and we had to go 
on our way alone.
April 28th. {1844/04/28} We had some 1 strong breezes,"-reefing,
especially during the afternoon, when the whirling ak tumultuous state ofthe sea gave 
us some idea ofthe dangers of the coast. 
29th {1844/04/29} Sighted Bermuda, and,, vexed.1'nough waj the I
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GULF OF MEXICO.
sea that surrounds her hundreds of islands. Afteumaking pilot-
signals for a long time, a black man at length put shore in one of the beautiful 
'Mudian boats, and told us he was a Queen's pilot. It however, so late in the 
afternoon, that he refused to take us into the harbour till next morning; and
accordingly, we kept him on board, tacking about all night. five o'clock morning 
he took us in, and we anchored off the admiral's house; our first inquiry was for the 
flag-ship; she had not arrived, and I rather triumphed, I acknowledge, at
our having won the race, particularly in the stormy weather we encountered, having 
latterly been running before the wind. We found ourselves very 
much exposed, in St. George's Harbour, to the force wind; and, as we intended to
remain some days at the Bermudas, we shifted our quarters, immediately, to 
Hamilton, the principal town. The navigation, through hundreds rocks islands, is 
difficult, but very beau. fiful; it really seemed like some dream of beauty,
the water beiDg so clear that you could see the pebbly bottom: coral rocks and 
the cedar groves! it was, indeed,-a bright and fairy scene; I think of it now, in 
this cold climate, and matter-of-fact country, how I long to be there with
those I love about me, again to realize the visions of the past, existence in that 
bright land of poetry and romance.
Hamilton is a pretty, clean town, situated close to the vvater; houses are all white, and 
there are hills rising behind  them, dotted with villas, and cedar trees.
We went on shore almost immediately after, our arrival, end hired a carriage to take us up to the) admirals, house,in order to acquaint Lady Adam of our  
company with the flag-ship. There, isA Very pretty view from the house;
and the garden, which is kept with great care, is full of flowers.
Puring our visit, the Illustrious came in sight. 
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TEXAS AND THE
Sunday; and, in the course of. our drive, we. had a good opportunity of forming our 
opinion of the appearance of, the Bermudian population. churches were very merous, and every one we rnet was his or her way t., some place of worship. The blacks are, in 
general, quite, as well-dressed as the whites, and are artiCularly civil and
wellconducted, touchino* their hats in a, courteous hich reminded one of old 
England. pp y of fresh water is very limited, and I was told that tile rea,' son for painting
the houses white was that the rain-water, of which every drop is of value, may not, in its descent from the roofs, come in contact with any dirty or discolouring substance. 
roads are excellent, and well. kept; beinz made chiefly of granite,
taken from tile Many picturesque rocks which are interspersed cedar woods.
I should say that the inhabitants of Bermuda were inveterately idle; by far the 
greater proportion are very poor and,live mostly on fish. Boat-building is tile Must 
common' trade, and that seen-is very much overstockc(l. many whales are taken at Bermuda during the season and Several were caught during our stay.
on Monday we took a pleasant drive about the during which I saw, among other 
curious things, a large natural tank, hollowed out in tile granite rocks, and filled
with, salt water; it was full of fish of different kinds.,some ~ of a very large size. 
The fish called groupers were the~ roost numerous ; there were others of brilliant
and beautiful colours, particularly the , angel-fish vered blue and silver; we 
saw them fed, and it was won'derful;t&,)Oa&rk so the habits of these monsters
of the deco'11,11-	came up to the surface of the water, heir4normous jaws, and 
then rolled over again, making roomfibr,,,some huge companion to take his turn,
is morning Nve went on shore to pay a visit to Mr and Mrs. Kennedy. 
Mr. Kennedy government Secretary, and his house and gardens would
really, in any country, be a model of good taste, comfort,
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GULF OF MEXICO.
and beauty, Such a profusion of flowers I never, gorgeous flowers from between the 
tropics, roses from Knights and Colville's choicest houses ransacked sweets beauty. 
know little about flowers, their scientific names or their natures, but I do know that
none ever seemed to me so beautiful as' those I. Mrs. Kennedy's exquisite garden. 
Imagine hedges Of the rich double pomegranate; roses, in whose thick,foliage
and glowing blossoms you might lose your. self; and such 
geraniums! The sweet-rose, the scarlet intermingled with 
heliotropes and verbenas, and all wild and uncultured.
The kitchen-gardens are no less worthy of notice; every sort of vegetable, growing 
to a perfection I rarely have seen before; and though so early in the year, there
Vere beans, Peas, cauliflowers, and young potatoes. All these things are pleasant, 
bat a kind welcome is pleasanter far, and that is a luxury one is sure to meet
Ivith at Rose Bank. We took a long,drive to-day, first to the house of the, Bishop of 
Newfoundland, who had previously honoured the Dolphin with a visit, and who
promised to show me the view from his houso~ as well as the famed sea-grape 
flourishes near it. The day was hot, but not so much so as to disagreeable; and
carriage indeed was rough and the horse though stumbled, I nevertheless enjoyed 
the excursion, for it was a new country, and novelty always its charm. There
,is a very steep ascent before arriving at the residence of the bishop, but the prospect 
it amplyrepays one for
After a walk of about half a mile from the house to the sea-beach, we seated ourselves beneath the'shade of one of those peculiar trees, sea-grape. In growth they
resemble ancient fig-trees ; having the same, rough, bold branches broad.leaves, 
when I visited the spot, the leaves, which are very thick broad, were shaded into red 
of differe I at 'hues, the remains only of the berries were hanging'from
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TEXAS AND THE
the branches. sat down beneath them with my agreeable companion, imaginations 
naturally wm dered to the magical creation of nature's favourite son,,,, We made up
our,minds that it was at this particular 8,,t that Prospero sojourned, and Miranda first
the brave form," she thought a spirit. We fixed upon the place where ,
quaint Ariel" gently did his 11 spiriting," and even ~Aiscovcrcd the tree from which 
his master freed him., it was the imagination of an idea, 
yet still it seemed tangible and clear
I never felt any climate so enjoyable as that of the., lovely islands, at the period of our 
visit. There were many beautiful plants and shrubs which I have nowbere else. The
inhabitants, however, seem, most of them, to be too indolent 
and too tasteless to care much about these sweet favourites, of nature.
The time had now arrived when we -were to le,.jvp wooded islands. Enchanting indeed were the days we spent among their , sunny waves," bowers"' and", breezy
hills," and now we are afloat again on the uold majestic sea," 
On the occasion of our coming to Hamilton, I had seen the scenery through 
which the schooner had passed, it being so early morning; but now, to make me
amends, I saw it all in perf6etion. Winding through the narrow
channels, fonned by coral rocks and cedar-wooded banks, water so clear and so 
shallow, that you could distinctly make out the shells shining gravel at the
bottom, the yacht glided on towards Ireland harboui; and now
The noontide sun a splendour pours, And lights up all these leafy shores."
And after a voyage far too short, we found ourselves at Ireland island. It is very pretty 
and as we in. tended to remain a day, the gig was ordered to l* manned, 
and we set out on a long cruising expedition about the islands. Somerset was 
first point, an&~, there we landed, and roamed about rocks, picking up:
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GULF OF MFXICO.
shells d coral. We passed the "Haunted Island," 'Mudian will go within 
sight of, after dark, ;hich no at'd then paid a visit to the dockyard, which did not
Seem to me, much worth seeing There were a great convicts, several of whom, I 
was told, were comparatiVelY rich men; indeed they can all earn a comfortable xistence by the manufacture of pretty little toys and ornaments of coral.
The Electra, man-of-war corvette, had arrived at Ireland island the before, and 
we went on board. It vv,as impossible for even a landswoman not to be struck
by her extreme beauty, and the care and evident attention  paid to the most 
trifling minutim of her personal appearance. The Dolphin was lying alongside
the flag-ship, and was kindly permitted to take in a, supply water the latter; a long 
operation, which was performed during our absence, for we did not after dusk.
s,,e of the officers of the flag-ship dined with us on board--, Parting visit, for we 
intended to sail at daybreak. Tile evening was enlivened by cheerful music from our
giant neighbour, and we separated at a late hour.
A pilot was taken on board, and I was awoke at five o'clock in the morning by the 
sounds attendant on departure. . I rose, and dressed immediately ; and having
in my mind the inany wonderful anecdotes I had heard of Bermudian pilots, aml of their taking ships through narrow rocky channels, I was eager to 
have my curiosity gratified., The wind was directly ahead, and it was consequently
necessary to beat out of the narrow channel. The pilot said never taken a vessel, any 
thing like the size of the yacht, out of the harbour with head wind, and she had
thus an opportunity of displaying some, of her goo.4,qqaliji6, It frequently occurred, 
that when the forepart ,of the schooner was almoit touching buoy, her stern was
within a foot, of one of the myriads of rocks which mark, the channel., The difficulty of 
surmounting, all
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TEXAS Al~b THE
these dangers must be very great, and the power of doing be'acquired by long 
practice and experience. Soon after we had discharged our pilot, we saw a 
whale a I t sorne dis . tance from us. On looking towards shore, we perceived that the 
presence of one of these monsters of the deep was known there also, for a whale.
boat was putting off with all despa tch.
On' 'rolled the creature, his great black sides turning up and 6yerju his awkward 
disportings, while every now and then be rose up in the air, and a spout of water
darted, up from his nose. I was, I conf!~'Ss, anxiou' to witness
a' strife, between the whalers and their prey, but I was destined to be disappointed. The whale got into deep water, too far off for the whalers, who never go to any
distance to sea to overtake them. Tli(-.,. weather was fine and moderate, and once out 
of the harbour, the wind was tolerably favourable. And now, we were fairly off for 
England yes, ,,Homeward now the bounding vessel flies."
CHAPTER XXXIL
The Azores-Terceira-Appearance of Fayal frorn the sea Scilly Islands-Eddystone 
lighthouse-Portland North Foreland-ConcIusion.
A various scene the wide-spread landscape rich enclosures, luxuriant fields Tickell
MAY, 17th. {1844/05/17} Sighted the Azores;-the island of Pico leeward bow, 
afternoon we passed close to Terceira. The coast seemed pretty, I thought, the most
distinguishing feature being an immense conical-shaped' mountain. The 'hills are in very picturesque arrangement, and are ornamented with many white, and good,:
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GULF OF MEXICO.
sized houses. We were becalmed for some time off the~e islands, and had thus an, 
opportunity of seeing as'much.,of Fayal as could be seen fxom the sea. 
a good glass we could'make out both animate and inanimate objects very distinctly. 
After this calm  we bad ,sorne rather strong winds, but they were in our fairour,
and we dashed home at the rate of nine and ten knots an hour.
On the 24th of May, {1844/05/24} aller a wonderfully-short passage
from Bermuda, we sighted that Scilly Islands, and greeted misty view of English land. 
There was a Ivory heavy swell, and a cold drizzling rain falling. I
The next day in the forenoon, we passed the Eddystone lighthouse, and fell in with 
many 11 outward bounders Ungraceful merchant ships, laden doubtless with
rich,,stores for all parts of  the known world, were to be seen in all directions; and 
raore than once we were hailed; to know our name, and whence we came.
The weather was essentially English~-an I 'English May! The sea, cold -and dark, 
reflected the cheerless clouds; and through the thick, wet air, dismal-looking
galls were flying heavily. It was a discouraging prospect, and nothing but the 
thoughts of horne could prevent one continually drawing 
comparisons very unfavourable to our country's climate. In the afternoon we I passed
Portland Lighthouse, and saw green fields and pleasant hedge-rows. the - 
lone fisher on the lonely sea, who, in the wild waters bad been labouring, far froin
home, for some bleak pittance." For a dollar, species of coin we possessed, we 
purchased as much fish as would have supplied a meal to ship's company, and
greatly did we er~joy it. Soon after this we passed a, fleet. fishing-boats, and sent 
letters on shore, too happy 11 the thought that we were sparing of anxiety~,
to those who had so long been looking out, for as.
25th. {1844/05/25} We passed the North Foreland, and felt that, we
were at home. The little schooner, after her long and distant career, had, returned in 
safety; and though wehad
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TEXAS AND THE GVLF OF MEXICO.
encountered more than our due share of severe gales and
stormy, weather, scarcely a sail or a spar had been Carried w;~Jr,; an no
 f a single sea had been shipped. That this 4,'bel,6n so, may -be 
attributed as much to the excellent seaworthy qualities of the 
yacht, as to the skill and unWearvinLr attention of her officers and crew. But noly
how 4-i~tly we glided up the river! Our troubled, but joyous course over the wild 
waves was over, and the dull stream bore us on its Sullen waters!
I could have grieved for the blue seas and the skies that We had left, 
behind us, but that I looked to happy meetings with long-parted friends, and 
thought, with st ' ill deeper gratitude, on the Power which preserved us through the 
many dangers which threaten those , that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy 
their business in great waters."
But our voyage up the river is ended, and preparations making for leaving yacht. 
I look round upon the 'hardy crew, who have shared danger,,;; and foolish 
seem, feel something very like a heaviness of heart, when,1 remember that I 
shall never see the ship mates of so many months collected together on that 
deck aln. But still more do I regret to part froin my home the waters-from the gallant 
vessel that has me us hi triumph through so inany storms and dangers.
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