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Historical Background

Waterborne once again—navigating the Clearwater and Snake

The journey down the swift-flowing Clearwater and Snake to the Columbia consumed 9 days (October 7-16). Currents, rapids, and boulder-strewn channels made passage a trial. The friendly Nez Perces who lived in the numerous encampments along the shores, subsisting on salmon and other fish, often provided navigational help. Some of them owned dogs, bought by many of the men, who preferred well-cooked dog meat to fish, for almost no game was available. Sometimes, however, fish as well as roots had to be purchased, in addition to firewood, which was difficult to find.

The second day on the Clearwater, in rapids, rocks gashed Sergeant Gass's canoe, and it sank in waist-deep water. Only the shallowness prevented loss of life and provisions. While the latter were being dried and the canoe repaired, Old Toby and his son deserted for some reason, possibly fear of the rapids and realization they were no longer effective as guides. Some Nez Perces reported seeing them running eastward along the riverbank. They subsequently took two of the horses that Lewis and Clark had left with the Nez Perces and apparently headed back over the Lolo Trail to their own country. Because of their sudden departure, they were never paid—to the regret of the two captains. But new guides, familiar with the route, were already on hand. Twisted Hair and another chief named Tetoharsky, who had agreed to accompany the expedition to the Columbia, had joined it on October 8.

On October 10 the party entered its principal tributary, the Snake. Clark, believing it to be a western stretch of the Salmon, which he had named the Lewis River, applied the same name to the Snake. [121] The party bivouacked on its east, or north, bank near the site of Lewiston, Idaho. The following morning, the push down the canyon-lined stream resumed into present Washington. The way was still difficult. At times, canoes overturned or grounded. Supplies were damaged and a portion of the critically short trade goods were lost. Some of the men who could not swim were luckily rescued by others.

This pre-1915 photograph shows The Dalles-Celilo Falls area before the present dam and canal were built. This view is from the Oregon side of the river looking toward Washington. (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.)

Down the broad Columbia

October 16 was a banner day. Into view came the broad Columbia—the "River of the West" that led to the "Western Ocean," or the "Great South Sea" as Clark called it. No other white men had seen it east of the Cascade Mountains. The Pacific could not be far away! Excited and triumphant though the leaders must have been, they filled their journals with unemotional and matter-of-fact observations.

Camp was established at the mouth of the Snake for 2 days, during which the Columbia was investigated for about 10 miles upstream. The men were astounded at the number of salmon in the island-dotted river. But, noting that a large percentage were dead or dying, they refrained from eating them and continued to procure dogs from the natives whenever possible.

The boats swept downstream on the 18th. The Indians remained friendly. On the 18th and 19th, councils were held with Yellept, chief of the Walla Wallas, and a delegation of tribal leaders. Yellept, specially hospitable, wanted Lewis and Clark to stay longer so that his people might visit the expedition, but the two captains excused themselves and promised to stay with him a few days on their return. Twisted Hair and Tetoharsky, understanding the languages of the river tribes, translated with signs for Lewis and Clark. The commanders assured the chiefs of the friendly disposition of the U.S. Government and distributed medals and gifts.

Section of one of Clark's maps showing Celilo, or Great Falls of the Columbia. (THWAITES, VIII, Map 32, Part I.)

THE attitude, as well as the economy, of the natives was to change at the same time that serious navigational problems again arose. On October 23 the boats entered a dangerous but spectacular stretch of the Columbia that extended for about 55 river miles. It contained a series of four major barriers, created by the stream as it tore its way through the Cascade Range on its sudden and sharp descent to the sea. All these barriers are today inundated by dam reservoirs.

More than a week of herculean effort was expended in passing through this part of the river. In comparison, earlier nautical difficulties seemed almost like child's play. To prevent loss of life and the destruction of canoes and supplies, portages were sometimes mandatory. Eager to reach the Pacific, however, Lewis and Clark sometimes took chances and ran the boats through hazardous areas.

The first barrier, breached on October 23, was the Celilo, or Great, Falls. In this short stretch of violent, roaring cataracts, the river funneled into several narrow channels, between cliffs as high as 2,000-3,000 feet, and dropped almost 38 feet. One falls was 20 feet high and the cargo and boats had to be portaged around it. The canoes were floated the rest of the way, however, though in some places they needed to be lowered by elk skin ropes.

The second obstacle, which began about 2 miles farther down stream, was The Dalles, traversed on October 24-25. In the Short Narrows, a quarter-mile-long swirling vortex of roaring waters, the channel constricted to a mere 45 yards wide. No portage of the canoes was possible over the rocky ledges so, to the amazement of Indian spectators, the boats and much of the cargo were ridden through the narrows by everyone who could swim; the others portaged with guns, ammunition, valuable papers, and some supplies.

Below the Short Narrows was a 3-mile stretch of river that offered no special difficulty except for one bad rapids. Then, at the Long Narrows of the Lower Dalles, 3 miles or so in length, the stream narrowed to 50-100 yards wide. It was possible to run the canoes with part of their cargoes through the entire extent; again valuable articles were portaged. Once the Long Narrows were negotiated, on October 26-27 the exhausted men rested, recaulked the canoes, and dried out equipment. Further relief came the next 4 days in a quieter part of the river.

The final barrier, surmounted on November 1-2, was the Cascades, or Grand Rapids, 3 to 4 miles of boiling rapids passing through a series of chutes and falls. Portaging of equipment and boats was often necessary, and sometimes the boats had to be lowered on poles running from one rock to another.

Indian fishing for salmon below Celilo Falls some time before The Dalles Dam was built and covered the falls. (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.)

WATER hazards were not the only ones. Beginning at Celilo Falls, the Indians changed substantially—in temperament as well as way of life. Their economy, like that of their upriver brethren, was based on salmon, which swarmed in the water by now, but it was riverine in nature. Travel and life on the Lower Columbia were centered on the river, and thick woods prevented use of horses in the hunt.

Some of the lower river Indians were friendly and cooperative, but a goodly number were thieves, vandals, devious traders, and beggars. All the men disliked them for these traits, if not for their infestation with fleas and lice, which they passed on to the expedition's complement. Particularly irksome were the natives in the Celilo Falls-Dalles-Cascades area, a center of the great Indian salmon fisheries and thus a meetingplace and focus of trade of the Northwest Indians for untold centuries. Navigational difficulties there had always given tribes in the vicinity unusual opportunities to prey on passersby, whom they often harassed or robbed. They enjoyed a bad reputation throughout early white contact.

Either Twisted Hair or Tetoharsky passed on to Lewis and Clark a rumor that one of the tribes planned to massacre the entire party. Probably only its size, superior weaponry, and special security measures prevented serious trouble. These factors were not enough to pacify Twisted Hair and Tetoharsky, who grew frightened for their own lives, for their people were at war with these lower river tribes. Anyway, because they could not understand the languages, they felt they could be of no further service as translators. On October 25 they purchased two horses from the local Indians, said farewell, and returned to their upriver home.

This drawing, made in the mid-1850's, shows The Dalles and Mount Hood. The landscape had not changed appreciably during the preceding 50 years. At The Dalles, the Columbia ground through great slabs and dikes of lava rock. (Lithograph by Sarony, Major & Knapp from a sketch by Stanley, in U.S. Pacific Railroad Surveys, XII, Plate XLIII.)

AS early as mid-October, Indians were seen wearing or possessing manufactured objects of American or European origin that could only have originated with northwest traders: guns, other weapons, beads, trinkets, wool clothing and blankets, cloth, powder flasks, and brass and copper kettles. These goods were apparently obtained in trade from tribes at the mouth of the Columbia—a cheering sign that journey's end was near.

There were other signs that the Pacific was not far away. On October 24, Lewis and Clark saw what they thought were sea otter but later decided were seals. Emerging from the gorge of the Columbia and leaving the Cascade Mountains behind, on November 2 the explorers noted that the river broadened to more than 2 miles wide at Beacon Rock, the beginning of tidewater.

This region, covered with fir, spruce, ash, and alder, contrasted sharply with the semidesert country of the Upper Columbia and the Snake. Game again made an appearance, though dried fish and roots still had to be purchased from the Indians—new groups of whom were met daily. Large numbers of waterfowl provided a welcome dietary supplement. Fog was frequent and often thick. Nevertheless, Mount Hood, which had first been sighted to the southwest on October 18, was seen again on November 3 far back to the southeast.

The growth of cities and industries in the Pacific Northwest has altered the landscape in many places, though in others it remains unchanged. This aerial view, looking northwestward along the Columbia River, presents a blend of the two conditions. On the lower left is the industrialized city of The Dalles, Oreg. Beyond, is the typical rugged, high plateau area along the river in present central and eastern Oregon and Washington. Mount Adams and the tip of Mount Rainier are in the background. (Oregon State Highway Division.)