A Journal of a voyage from Eastport to California via Cape Horn 1849 Officers Crew Capt. J. Clark John C. Carpenter. Chas. Folsom Joseph Wormell Joshua Norwood. George Osborne John Mitcheher Frank Mabee Simion Higgins [end of page log510_001.gif] -1849- Monday, November 12th {1849/11/12} This morning at nine o'clock, the wind N. the lines that held the good brig Amelia were cast off with friendly wishes of many for a safe and speedy voyage to the distant land for which she is bound. The feelings of most persons on board as far as could be judged, were sorrowful at parting from relations and friends with a determination to return to them, as soon as fortune had smiled upon them to a moderate extent. Our great gun which the Mate named "Barker" spoke loudly on the occasion, which with the discharge of small arms in the possession of the passengers caused it to appear a voyage of pleasure which we sincerely hope and trust it may prove. As we passed Lubec the inhabitants gave us their cheers; which were promptly returned. As we neared [end of page log510_002.gif] the Sail[?] Rock we discharged Barker accompanied with three times three our last salute to those eastern shores. The keeper of the light at West Quaddy Head having recognized us rang his fog bell and waved his hat with no doubt an inward prayer for our success. The wind which was blowing a smart breeze soon wafted us past Campobello when upon going aloft for the purpose I took a last and farewell view of the shore of my native place. I could from this position see many of the hills over which I had rambled, many of which are connected with some of my happiest moments and I gazed with a sure and certain knoledge of its being the lasted for years, ages perhaps forever. The fact of such an idea harrows up feelings which I will not here attempt to describe. Farewell to the land I love. [end of page log510_003.gif] Tuesday 14th {1849/11/13} The wind continued fair during the night, and at four o'clock this morning the mainsail was taken in. At 8 A.M. the crew were engaged in rigging out studding sails. Most of the passengers have done justice to the breakfast placed before them by the steward; though there are a few suffering from the effects of sea sickness. One in particular, Mason Tuttle is having a hard time and I am not much better than he. Wednesday 14th {1849/11/14} The wind is still fair and we are bounding along merily. A bark is nearing us stearing northward. There is also a vessel eight or ten miles ahead of us, which to all appearances is a brig and stearing about two points southerly of our course. We are now by dead reckoning on the edge of Gulf Stream. The weather is moderating fast to date. The first observation was taken Lat. 39§ 27. N. Long 63.62 W #s039 27N#e $s063 62W$e [end of page log510_004.gif] Thursday 15th {1849/11/15} On going on deck this morning I found the vessel resting on the water like a toy, the wind having died completely, away. In the afternoon a slight breeze sprung up from the W. and soon changed to the N.-W and at 3 P.M. took in the mainsail, and at 4 P.M. topgallantsail going at the rate of 8 knots. Lat. 37§ 20' N. Long 64§ 16' W. #s037 20N#e $s064 16W$e Friday 16th {1849/11/16} This morning the passengers are complaining of sore bones from having such an uneasy berth during the night. An ugly sea has been running & the brig has been bobbing about in such a manner that one cannot lie still a moment. We have fore sail, fore topsail and mainsail again upon her, and a strong breeze from the N..N.E Most persons on board prognosticate a quick passage as our [end of page log510_005.gif] Capt" has the reputation of being a fortunate one, and thus far it is established. At 2 P.M. we added the main stay sail - and she is now plowing through the water like a thing of life. Saturday 17th {1849/11/17} The wind moderate all sail set that will draw. Brig running S.S.E to S.E by E. A vessel seen from aloft supposed to be a brig steering N.W. Towards night wind heading us off. Lat. 35§ 40. Long 58§ 00" #s035 40N#e $s058 00W$e Sunday 18th {1849/11/18} Wind E. by S. weather pleasant at 10 A.M. took in flying jib and gaft topsail and top gallant sail. At 4 P.M. called all hands to reef topsails and tacked ship heading on this tack N.E. by E. At 8 P.M. reefed mainsails - an ugly sea running attended with rain squalls. Lat. 33§ 50' N Long 57 § 33. W #s033 50N#e $s057 33W$e [end of page log510_006.gif] Monday 19th {1849/11/19} Wind S.E. by E. Rain squalls during the day. Brig running N.E. course, Wind light. Some of the passengers are ??? not very well and call upon the medicine chest Lat. 34§ 15' N. long 56§ 43' W #s034 15N#e $s056 43W$e Tuesday 20th {1849/11/20} Wind S.S.E Vessel making E.N.E course and a heavy sea running but wind light. Some of the passengers are not very well and and call loudly on the medicine chest again. Lat. 34§ 25 N Long 55§ 34. #s034 25N#e $s055 34W$e Wednesday 21st {1849/11/21} A perfect calm during the first of the day; in the latter part light wind from S.W. Making E.S.E. course and at 8 A.M. took in topgallant sail; stowed flying jib and tacked ship and at 1 A.M. tacked again heading E.S.E. Lat. 34§ 40' N. Long 56. 36' W. #s034 40N#e $s056 36W$e [end of page log510_007.gif] Thursday 22nd {1849/11/22} This morning the brig taking a heavy roll split the jib again which had been so recently bent. At 6 A.M. wind quite moderate. Repaired the jib and set it for the second time and at 1 P.M. wind heading to S.S.W. At 7 P.M. two reefed topsail and mainsail. Lat. 34§ 56' N. Long 53§ 11' W #s034 56N#e $s053 11W$e Friday 23d {1849/11/23} It has blown quite a gale during the night but at 6 A.M. wind has gone down and we are now shaking out the reefs. A man aloft has discovered a sail dead to windward about ten miles and steering the same course with ourselves Wind quite moderate. Lat. 34§ 46' N Long 49§ 12' W. . . . . #s034 46N#e $s049 12W$e Saturday 24th {1849/11/24} Light winds from E.N.E running S.E. by S The vessel seen yesterday is steering S.E. course. At 8 A.M. is about six miles [end of page log510_008.gif] distant. Our crew are now setting topmost studding sails on the starboard side. Lat. 34§ 06' N Long. 49§ 57' W #s034 06N#e $s049 57W$e Sunday 25th {1849/11/25} Light wind from N.E. making S.E. course. The barque we saw yesterday almost out of sight. appears to be steering northward. A fore and aft schooner is in sight eight miles to windward. In the afternoon the wind increased with heavy showers of rain. Took in top gallant sail at 6 P.M. Split the jib again. Heavy sea running and wind increasing, and at 7 P.M. leech rope of the mainsail parted and sail much torn. Lat. 33§ 38 N. Long 49§ 52 W #s033 38N#e $s049 52W$e Monday 26th {1849/11/26} This morning wind blowing from N.N.E and heavy sea and the vessel under short sail. At 8 A.M. made a vessel which we supposed to be a schooner and found her to be a full rigged brig. [end of page log510_009.gif] At 12 A.M. spoke her and ascertained, that she was from Boston and bound for San Francisco. Her name we did not learn. She appeared to be light and had a small deck load of lumber. Since we spoke her, she is standing more to the eastward than ourselves, but does not appear to sail better than our brig; as after our hauling up foresail setting topsail on the cap she should not come up with us for some time although not more than three cables lengths astern. After going through the formula of speaking, we gave her three cheers which was promtly returned by them. Lat. 31§ 19' N. Long 47.37 W- #s031 19N#e $s047 37W$e Tuesday 27th {1849/11/27} Strong breeze from E by N. Vessel making S.S.E. course. Lat. 29§ 13' N. Long 46§ 11' W- #s029 13N#e $s046 11W$e [end of page log510_010.gif] Wednesday 28th {1849/11/28} Moderate breeze from E. steering S. by E 3/4 E. : repaired main sail and set it At 7 P.M. tacked again and stood to the N. At 9 P.M. tacked again and stood to the S. This has been a general washing day and as far as I am concerned find it a very disagreable job. The fact is washing in salt water is hard on the knuckles and I have come to the conclusion that to get cloths clean is out of the question; for I find I cannot do anything more than to spread the dirt as it were so as not to have it all in one place. a washerwoman now would be very acceptable Lat. 27§ 13' W. Long 45§ 21' W- #s027 13N#e $s045 21W$e Thursday 29th {1849/11/29} Wind E. by S. and moderate. At 11 A.M. tacked ship and stood to the N and E. This moovment is owing to [end of page log510_011.gif] the trades being so much. to the N. and E. so that Capt. Clark fears that we will be jamed onto the coast of Brazil and to avod it deems it prudent to make his longitude in these latitudes rather than risk it at the Equator, the termination of the of the N.E. trades. Capt. Clark is quite low in spirits to his not being able to get farther to the eastward . This could have been avoided to a great degree had we kept more to the eastward. When we first came out we had a good chance to do so but the trouble there was to get to the southward. . Lat. 26§ 04 N. Long 45§ 04' W- #s026 04N#e $s045 04W$e Friday 30th {1849/11/30} Wind S.S.E; steering N. E. by N. In the latter part of the day light winds and rain. Lat. 27§ 18' N Long 44§ 14' W- #s027 18N#e $s044 14W$e Saturday Dec. 1st {1849/12/01} Light wind from S.S.E. steering N.E. 3/4 E. This is indeed a queer[?] course to steer bound [end of page log510_012.gif] to California but such is our bad fortune. Lat. 28§ 50' N. Long 43§ 12' W- #s028 50N#e $s043 12W$e Sunday 2nd {1849/12/02} Light winds from E. by S. steering N. E. 1/2 N. A passenger from aloft discovered a ship steering our course. At 12 A.M. exchanged signals and supposed her to be the Hannibal of Boston. Lat. 30§ 31' N. Long 42§ 55 W. #s030 31N#e $s042 55W$e Monday 3d {1849/12/03} Moderate winds from S. E. steering N. E. course. In the afternoon the wind changed to the N.E. by E : course S.E. This is rather slow work and some of the passengers begin to that our voyage will be the longest on record; and indeed it bids fair for it thus far but fortune will favor the brave so I am in hopes that that we will arrive at our destination all in good time. No Latitude today for me. [end of page log510_013.gif] -- Tuesday 4th -- {1849/12/04} To day a ship appeared in sight, and at three o'clock spoke her. She proved to be the Sartelle from N. York 18 days out, and bound for the gold regions (of course). They reported as having experienced very heavy weather, and had lost most of a suit of sails. After the Capt. of the ship and our Capt. had concluded a youth of the order of the stars and stripes commenced quite a spirited conversation with us in which he wished to know if we were bound to the dry diggins To which Mr. Powers replied that we were in the dry diggins at present. This young gentleman also inquired very kindly if we had any of the feminine gender on board of our vessel. Oh ! ye fair ones think judge imagine guess like true yankee fair ones our sorrow in not being able to answer in the affirmative unless taking poor bess (a pig) into consideration. [end of page log510_014.gif] Wednesday 5th {1849/12/05} After tea last evening on going on deck we found we were within fifty yards of the Sartell when by Capt. Clarks request the band collected which consisted of Hibbard and his violin Mabee and his flute and myself with my fiddle minus the strings and took our position on the forecastle deck and commenced playing some charming airs which were acknowledged by the ship's giving a salute which Barker answered in a manner which did himself credit, and finally wound up by the performance of some Boston first rate fours which did I say very well. No! that could not and cannot be without the pressure if not assistance of the fair sex; suffice it to say that the dance went off well. considering the chance. There were a variety of steps displayed on the occasion. Tuttle giving [end of page log510_015.gif] a true specimin of Perry. Meely giving Penfield string while I represented my own town in a decided scientific manner. Thursday 6 {1849/12/06} Light winds; steering E. by S. I have had the satisfaction of seeing some dolphins to day. One was lost in the act of taking it on board The Sartell is still in light. Light winds all day Friday 7th {1849/12/07} A complete calm. The vessel lying almost motionless. At 12 A.M. were visited by another school of dolphins and have succeeded in catching four or five which are to be cooked for supper. [end of page log510_016.gif] Saturday 8th {1849/12/08} Wind blowing a fresh breeze course E. to E. by S. The dolphin supper of which we partook last night was indeed a rich treat in our situation and in fact is not unworthy of the name in less unfavorable circumstances. Lat. 30§ 3' N Long 38§ 07' W #s030 03N#e $s038 07W$e Sunday 9th {1849/12/09} Wind blowing a breeze and the vessel making a S. E. course Three sails in sight ; two steering N and the other the same course as ourselves Lat. 29§ 07" N Long 36§ 10" #s029 07N#e $s036 10W$e Monday 10th {1849/12/10} Wind S.W. making S.S.E. course by compass. A very heavy sea running more so than we have yet seen. It is thought threre has [end of page log510_017.gif] been a heavy storm which we have been fortunate enough to escape. We have seen five sails to day and to me it seems as if this part of the Atlantic was covered with vessels ; and judging from the course which they are steering I imagine most of them to be bound to California. At 7 P.M. our brig was completely enveloped in a black cloud from which we anticipated some trouble; but fortunately it did not amount to anything serious. While in this situation (it being very dark) one of the passengers who in the foreward part of the vessel cried out "sail ho" when a vessel was seen running fair upon us. A light was instantly hoisted which was at once observed by our nocturnal visitor. Then hauling her wind passed with in half a cable's length of our stern. She was a full rigged brig and going rapidly through the water. [end of page log510_018.gif] Tuesday 11th {1849/12/11} Strong breeze from S.W. with a heavy sea and cloudy. Brig making S.S.E. course. In the latter part of the day wind hauled to N.E. and squally with showers of rain. Lat. 27§ 10' N. Long 33§ 37' W- #s027 10N#e $s033 37W$e Wednesday 12th {1849/12/12} This can safely be called a lost day it being calm. Caught four dolphins. Two more sails in sight. Days like this I as well as the rest of my fellow passengers fell rather low spirited. For such days only lengthen out our passage to that land of gold for which we are bound; but we cannot have thing in this world as we would wish. So I have occupied myself in playing pranks on the rest of the passengers and coming [end of page log510_019.gif] off second best. Thursday 13th {1849/12/13} During the first part of the day light winds; latter part strong breeze from the southward. Brig making E.S.E. course. Passengers much discouraged at the prospect. Lat. 25§ 35' N. Long 32§ 55' W- #s025 35N#e $s032 55W$e Friday 14th {1849/12/14} At 8 A.M. tacked Ship making S.W. course. Several sails in sight. Lat. 25§ 35' N Long 29§ 05' W #s025 35N#e $s029 05W$e Saturday 15th {1849/12/15} Light S.S.E. winds. Course S.S.W. At 5 P.M. wind hauled to S. by E. Tacked ship and stood S. by W. Four sails in sight three of which are steering S.W. One a [end of page log510_020.gif] barque has been steering in a very singular manner; for at one time she was seen standing close upon the wind, and then running off before it so that some of us are of the opinion that some cooc[?] is in comand who likes his brandy. Lat. 24§ 33§ N. Long 31.01 W- #s024 33N#e $s031 01W$e Sunday 16th {1849/12/16} Fresh breeze from E. by S. course S. This is quite a God send - and has quite a magical effect upon our spirits. During the last twenty four hours we crossed the tropic of Cancer and consequently are now for the first time for any on board under the rays of a tropical sun. And in order to commemorate this event have had served up for dinner a soup unremarkable for two causes; [end of page log510_021.gif] first from the scarcity of the little biddies of which it is made; and secondly for the quantity of liquid. The passengers are getting to have but little regard for the sabbath more than for any other day. The first few sabbath morning they sang hyms and sacred music. What a contrast between a sabbath at sea and one on shore. Lat. 22§ 08' N Long 34§ 49 W #s022 08N#e $s034 49W$e Monday 17th {1849/12/17} Light easterly winds. Brig making S. course. We have now began to think that we have caught the N.E. trades and if it is so shall soon be down to the Equator. Lat. 19' 53 N Long 30 23 W #s019 53N#e $s030 23W$e [end of page log510_022.gif] Tuesday 18th {1849/12/18} This day comes under the heading of = for our brig is lying like some huge box (as she is) upon the face of the mighty deep, and perfectly motionless save that occasioned by the very light swell which is scarcely worth mentioning. 'Tis a delightful prospect to gaze upon the surface of this vast sheet of water, when in perfect tranquility as at present. The transparency of its hues are beyond the conception of anyone who has not witnessed the like. We are now only about twenty of thirty miles from the Cape de Verde Islands [end of page log510_023.gif] Wednesday 19th {1849/12/19} Yesterday at 5 P.M. a light wind sprung up from from the N.E. and increased gradually through the night and is now blowing a smart breeze. We have all sail set with starboard studdingsails and the old Hogan is bounding it off at a great rate (say seven knots) The atmosphere since yesterday has been quite thick and smoky and has caused some considerable speculation in the way of ideas as to the cause of it and the effect it has upon our sails and rigging as it leaves a substance on them not unlike red ochre, and of a copperish taste. Mr. Powers, a (fellow passenger) gives as his opinion to which all have finally concurred, that it is a find sand which has been blown from the African [end of page log510_024.gif] coast by a Simoon. which has recently taken place. Lat. 16§ 36' N. Long 30§ 18. W- #s016 36N#e $s030 18W$e Thursday 20th {1849/12/20} The atmosphere still presents the same appearance as it did yesterday and several of the passengers together with the Capt. and cook are complaining of sore throats and eyes and some are inclined to think that it is caused by this substance by which the air is impregnated Wind E.N.E. and a fair quantity of it. The spirits of the passengers have been much revived by this fair wind and my ernest prayer is that is may continue so untill the end of our journey. Lat 13§ 51' N. Long 29§ 53 West #s013 51N#e $s029 53W$e [end of page log510_025.gif] Friday 21st {1849/12/21} The continuation of the wind at E.N.E. satisfies us that we are in the trades and all are in high spirits and seem to think that we shall be able to spend part of the 25th {1849/12/25} in crossing the equator. Last night a flying fish dropped himself on board. It was the first I ever saw of this species of fish- Lat 11§ 15' N. Long 29§ 12' W #s011 15N#e $s029 12W$e Saturday 22d {1849/12/22} This day is similar to the one which proceeded it. Very fair winds and pleasant weather and everything going on well. May nothing transpire to mar our enjoyment. Lat 8§ 11' N Long 28§ 33' West #s008 11N#e $s028 33W$e [end of page log510_026.gif] Sunday 23d {1849/12/23} The wind has hauled more southerly. Brig making S. by E. course which has put a damper on our spirits which were but yesterday so high. To me this is a demonstration of the uncertainty of anything like happiness in this transitory world. Capt. Clark and Mr. Johnson the mate seem very low spirited in consequence of the wind jamming us so much to the westward fearing they will not be able to clear Cape St Royal. Lat 6§ 11' N Long 28§ 30 W #s006 11N#e $s028 30W$e Monday 24th {1849/12/24} Light winds with copious showers of rain. Tomorrow is Christmas and if I may be allowed [end of page log510_027.gif] to judge from the slaughter among the chickens we shall have something in the shape of chicken fixings for dinner. Lat 5§ 15' N. Long 20§ 35 W- #s005 15N#e $s020 35W$e Tuesday 25th {1849/12/25} A sail in sight from the fore-yard. This being Christmas, we understood that we were to have the chickens for dinner and went down into the cabin with the expectation of partaking of a dinner suitable to the occasion : but I must say that of all the fixings I ever saw this was the greatest fix. I think it would be impossible to fix us such another fix as we had for our Christmas dinner. To day thoughts of presents parents and home are awakened vividly bringing to mind a year ago to day - of a home now justly [end of page log510_028.gif] prized when lost: of friends whose value is now fully felt when far away. These thoughts will come up though we may seem careless to others. Home and its associations are not so easily forgotten when far away even by the wildest wanders from its influence. Recollections of a loved father and mother brothers and sisters and perchance of one dearer than a sister will come rushing through the mind checking a wanton reckless deed. Wednesday 26th {1849/12/26} Wind S.S.E. Brig steering S.W. Weather pleasant At 5 A.M. have come near to the sail which has been in sight these last two days. Wind [end of page log510_029.gif] heading us off more and at 1 P.M. tacked ship and stood E. Mr. Powers is very unwell with the pleurisy. Lat 2§ 40" N. Long " " W Thursday 27th {1849/12/27} At 4 o'clock this morning tacked ship. Wind S.S.E. Course S.W. Capt. Clark says he will keep us on this course untill he makes land Lat 2§ 36' N. Long 28§ 57" W #s002 36N#e $s028 57W$e Friday 28th {1849/12/28} Wind S.S.E. course S.W At 4 A.M. a sail in sight steering N. Mr. Loring shot a large bird to day that came hovering round the vessel; which was considered by some as a bad omen. Lat 1§ 26" N. Long 30§ 02" W- #s001 26N#e $s030 02W$e [end of page log510_030.gif] Saturday 29th {1849/12/29} We have been engaged in rigging an awning; for the thermo' ranges at 87§. At three o'clock P.M. a sail in sight : passed within short distance which we expected to be near enough to speak and perhaps to send some letters home by her as she appeared to be steering N.E. but fate ordered it otherwise as Mr Mealy would say. Lat 0' 44"' N. Long 31§ 25' W- #s000 44N#e $s031 25W$e Sunday 30th {1849/12/30} Suppose we crossed the line about 3 o'clock this morning. Therm. stood at noon at 89§. crossed the line without old Neptune's coming on board : and if he han he would have been roughly handled as he had but two friends on board [end of page log510_031.gif] out of twenty-one. Weather pleasant; wind S.S.E. making a S. course. Lat. 0§ 34' N. Long 32§ 08' West. #s000 34N#e $s032 08W$e Monday 31st {1849/12/31} Wind S.E. by S. steering S.S.W. At 12 A. M. the wind headed more southerly : So tacked ship. steering E by N. At 4 P.M. a barque hove in sight steering S.W. Lat 2§ 17' S. Long 32§ 57 W- #s002 17S#e $s032 57W$e Tuesday January 1st. 1850 {1850/01/01} Wind S.E. by S. At 8 A.M. tacked ship. Course on the tack S.W. 1/2 S. This is New Years day and we have again chicken fixings for dinner and it is my creed to pay honor where honor is due. I therefore must say that our jewel of a steward set before us rather a goodly dish in the shape of a sea pie. [end of page log510_032.gif] Wednesday 2nd {1850/01/02} Wind S. by E vessel making S.W course : at 12 P.M. Capt Clark told us we might look out for land, and about 5 P.M. the cry of "Land ho" bearing S. distand[?] 18 miles. At 8 P.M. tacked ship and stood N.E. At 10 o'clock tacked ship again and with the expectation of coming close to the land but owing to a strong current setting to the W-- we went to the leeward of the supposed rocks or island called Roocas. Lat 3§ 19' S. Long 33§ 27.. W- #s003 19S#e $s033 27W$e Thursday 3d {1850/01/03} Fresh south easterly gales Course varying from S.W. to S. by W. Great speculation as to weather she will clear Cape St. [end of page log510_033.gif] Rogue or not, but tomorrow will tell the tale. Lat 4§ 5' S Long 34§ 8' W- #s004 05S#e $s034 08W$e Friday 4th {1850/01/04} At three P.M. made the coast of Brazil at a point called Point Pipa. During the day made several tacks off and on shore the wind being ahead. A good opportunity was thus afforded us for viewing the coast of this part of Brazil But I cannot from observation say much in its favor. The vegetation in scanty and and the land apparently composed of mountains or hills of white and red sand. Lat 6§ 17 S. Long 34. 39" W #s006 17S#e $s034 39W$e [end of page log510_034.gif] Saturday 5th {1850/01/05} At 12 at night tacked ship and stood S.W. 1/2 W. This course Capt. Clark hoped would clear the coast but somewhat mistook for at 4 P.M. again made the land. This time we stood well in before tacking consequently had a good view of this portion of the brazilian coast which indeed is much more pleasing than that before seen. Lat 6§ 38" S Long 34§ 22" W #s006 38S#e $s034 22W$e Sunday 6th {1850/01/06} During the past night have been standing off and on shore and at 11 A.M. the wind hauled so that we can lay our course along shore. As we proceeded to the south-ward the appearance of the [end of page log510_035.gif] country is more and more pleasing. The general course of the coast is S.E. and N.W. with but slight promontories with a very bold shore and banks of considerable height & of such a nature as to give them the appearance of art rather than of nature. Lat 7§ 10" S Long 34§ 30' W- #s007 10S#e $s034 30W$e Monday 7th {1850/01/07} Light winds from S.E. to E.S.E. At 12 at night Pernambuco light bore W distance 10 miles. Large fire balls are constantly soaring high in the air and than bursting having the appearance of sky rockets which many on board assert they are - Lat 8§ 4" S. Long 34. 48' W #s008 04S#e $s034 48W$e [end of page log510_036.gif] Tuesday 8th {1850/01/08} Moderate winds from the E. Saw what we supposed to be a turtle asleep on the water but could not get him because Capt C would not allow the boat to be lowered so no turtle soup for us to day. Lat 10§ 38' S. Long 34. 49 W #s010 38S#e $s034 49W$e Wednesday 9th {1850/01/09} Fresh breeze from the E Weather pleasant. Sighted a ship running S. Thursday 10th {1850/01/10} Fresh breeze from E.N.E. Course S.S.W. Spoke ship Andrew Scott 43 days out from Portland Maine - [end of page log510_037.gif] bound to California. We gave her three cheers which were promptly returned. I recognized an old school mate on board of her. Viz - Nelson Waid. Lat 14§ 59' S. Long 35§ 52 W- #s014 59S#e $s035 52W$e Friday 11th {1850/01/11} Light wind from E. by N. The Andrew Scott in sight but astern about 10 miles which makes me believe that we have been rather unfortunate in regard to winds. Lat 16§ 56" S. Long 36. 36' W- #s016 56S#e $s036 36W$e Saturday 12th {1850/01/12} Strong wind from E.N.E. Brig making S.S.W. course and fair heading for an old tub like her. but as we have left the ship astern the rest of my fellow passengers seem to [end of page log510_038.gif] think that she is doing pretty well and talk loudly of her sailing qualities - Lat 19§ 18 S. Long 37§ 29' W- Sunday 13th {1850/01/13} Light winds from N.E. The A. Scott is still in sight from aloft and indeed the difference in our sailing is not much. Lat 21§ 24" S. Long 38. 09" W #s021 24S#e $s038 09W$e Monday 14th {1850/01/14} Strong breeze from N.N.E. Course S. There is nothing of any importance to note down to day. Lat. 24§ 14' Long 38.36. W #s024 14S#e $s038 36W$e [end of page log510_039.gif] Tuesday 15th {1850/01/15} Fresh Breeze from N. and cloudy sky - Two Barques in sight standing eastward. Heavy swell to day. Lat. 26§ 04'S Long 39. 21" W #s026 04S#e $s039 21W$e Wednesday 16th {1850/01/16} Light wind from N. course S.S.W. Passed several pieces of drift-wood which was supposed to be part of the deck load of some California bound ship. Lat 27§ 26' S. Long 39. 41 W - #s027 26S#e $s039 41W$e Thursday 17th {1850/01/17} In the morning strong breeze from the N. At 10 P.M. took in all sail but the fore sail in preparation for a squall which soon came from the S.W. attended with rain. After the squall [end of page log510_040.gif] passed off we all repaired to the deck for the purpose of viewing the Corporants[?] which were discovered on the fore and main trucks. To me it was a novel sight. Lat 29§ 05' S. Long 40§ 10' #s029 05S#e $s040 10W$e Friday 18th {1850/01/18} Light winds from S. by E. Course S.W and heavy head beat sea Tacked and stood S.W by S. Lat 29§ 49" S Long 43§ 31' W- #s029 49S#e $s043 31W$e Saturday 19th {1850/01/19} Light winds from N.E. Course S.W. by S Quite a lively conversation and debate were carried on to day by some of the passengers in regard to two light spots in the firmament - Some protesting that they are Magellen Clouds and some think otherwise. For my part not [end of page log510_041.gif] knowing I do not pretend to say - Monday 21st {1850/01/21} Wind S.E. ; course S.W. by S. A heavy bank resembling fog arose in the W. but passed off without troubling us by paying us a visit. We are getting along well now and hopes run high and some are making their calculations for a four and a half months passage Lat 35§ 15" S Long 45§ 57" W- #s035 15S#e $s045 57W$e Tuesday 22th {1850/01/22} Fresh breeze from the N the first part of the day. At 11 o'clock A.M. took in studding sails and furled the mainsail. At 3 P.M. the weather very squally ; latter part of the day weather moderate but very cloudy. Late in the afternoon a sail was discovered bearing down for us which [end of page log510_042.gif] proved to be the barque Mattapoisette nine months out on a whaling voyage with 500 bbls of oil. They wanted to know if we could spare them any late papers and having received a favorable answer sent a boat along side of us. They raise the cry that there are two more sails in sight. It is such incidents as these that breaks the monotony of a sea voyage. Lat 37§ 24" S. Long 47§ 44" W- #s037 24S#e $s047 44W$e Wednesday 23d {1850/01/23} Fresh breeze from the W- At 8 A.M. reefed topsail and set out jib ; At 12 A.M.- shook out the reefs. The latter part of the day calm - Lat 38§ 37" S. Long 47§ 52' W #s038 37S#e $s047 52W$e [end of page log510_043.gif] Thursday 24th {1850/01/24} A gale of wind from the S.W: course S.S.E. At 8 A.M.- reefed topsail and mainsail and stowed the jib. A strong gale from the S and heavy sea running. Lat 38§ 12' S. Long 48. 14 W #s038 12S#e $s048 14W$e Friday 25th {1850/01/25} At 5 o'clock in the morning a strong breeze from N.W. course S.W. During the forenoon and first part of the afternoon a gale of wind : close reefed the topsail and mainsail and stored the jib. Heavy showers of rain. Brig's sail reduced to foretopsail staysail and three reefed mainsails. Lat 39§ 22" Long 50§ 11' W- #s039 22S#e $s050 11W$e [end of page log510_044.gif] Saturday 26th {1850/01/26} Wind south. Course W.S - Wore ship and shook out all the reefs and are once more under all sail for California - Sunday 27th {1850/01/27} First part of the day calm and pleasant but at 9 A.M. a breeze sprung up from N.N.W - course S.W. Breeze continued moderate until late in the afternoon where it began to blow . Double reefed topsail and mainsail. Lat 40§ 02' S. Long 51§ 11 W- #s040 02S#e $s051 11W$e [end of page log510_045.gif] Monday 28th {1850/01/28} Gale continues with wind from N.W by N. We are going under a two reefed topsail and mainsail. At 4 P.M. wore ship and set the jib wind S.S.W. Lat 40§ 10' S. Long 52§ 35' W - #s040 10S#e $s052 35W$e Tuesday 29th {1850/01/29} First part of the day light winds from S.S.W. Course W. by N. Middle part of the day calm latter part I may as well say calm likewise - [end of page log510_046.gif] Wednesday 30th {1850/01/30} Moderate breeze from N.W. course S.W. At 11 A.M. strong breeze two reefed the mainsail wind hauled to W.N.W.; course S.S.W. At 7 P.M. two reefed the topsail and stowed the jib. Wind S.W. At 11 P.M. furled topsail and mainsail - Lat 41§ 45' S Long 54§ 07' W - #s041 45S#e $s054 07W$e Thursday 31st {1850/01/31} A gale from S.W.; course S.S.E. At 6 P.M. braced[?] up the spencer and at 7 A.M. set the spencer again; at 11 set the topsail two furled. The gale continues with a heavy sea. [end of page log510_047.gif] Friday February 1st {1850/02/01} Strong breeze from N.N.W. Course S.W. At 4 P.M. set the foresail and jib and at 8 o'clock shook out all the reefs and set all sail Weather wet and disagreable - Lat 43§ 19' S. Long 53§ 40" W #s043 19S#e $s053 40W$e Saturday 2nd {1850/02/02} Light winds from the N.W. Course S.W. Saw vast quantities of sea weed today. Caught an Albatross today which measured 10 feet across his wings from tip to tip. At 10 P.M. tacked ship and stood S.S.W. Lat 44§ 39'S Long 34§ 55" #s044 39S#e $s034 55W$e [end of page log510_048.gif] Sunday 3d {1850/02/03} Light wind from N. W. course from S.W. to W.S.W. Nothing today to break the monotony of a sea voyage. Lat 45§ 12" S. Long 57§ 09" W - #s045 12S#e $s057 09W$e Monday 4th {1850/02/04} Light wind from N.N.W. course S.W. Weather pleasant. Tuesday 5th {1850/02/05} Fresh breeze in the morning from N.N.W. At noon W. by S. course S. In the latter part of the day the wind increased and has the appearance of a storm. Lat 48§ 14" S Long 61§ 21" W #s048 14S#e $s061 21W$e [end of page log510_049.gif] Wednesday 6th {1850/02/06} Weather pleasant and a strong breeze from N.W., course S.W. At 10 A.M. handed the fore course and two reefed the mainsail During the day some slush boiled over from the stove and set gally on fire but it was soon extinguished. Lat 50§ 17" S. Long 62§ 26" W #s050 17S#e $s062 26W$e Thursday 7th {1850/02/07} Fresh breeze from the S.W. course S.S.E. two reefed the topsail and at 7 A.M. tacked ship and stood W.N.W. At 12 o'clock tacked again standing S.S.W. At 7 P.M. shook out all the reefs. Spoke a barque from N.Y. 125 days out. She appeared [end of page log510_050.gif] to be standing for the Falkland Islands. We did not ascertain her destinationg but judged from her appearance that she was California bound and was about to touch at the Islands for supplies. Her name was washed off from her stern and all that could be discovered was N. York. She had some lady passengers aboard as some of our boys had a glimpse of them as they rushed past one another. Lat 50§ 59" S Long 64§ 25" W #s050 59S#e $s064 25W$e Friday 8th {1850/02/08} With a moderate breeze from the S.W. and pleasant weather but at 12 A.M. wind W. and heavy sea with showers of rain.  At 8 P.M. were obliged to two reef the top sail. Lat 52§ 48" S. Long 66§ 16" W #s052 48S#e $s066 16W$e [end of page log510_051.gif] Saturday 9th {1850/02/09} Strong W wind course S. by E. At 6 A.M. saw the land of Tierra Del Fuego bearing S. twenty miles distand.[?] It presents the appearance of one vast range of mountains the summits of some of them being covered with snow while others are obscured by dark lead colored clouds. At 5 P.M. we were running for the straits of Le Maire now distant 5 miles. As we near the Cape of San Diego the cry of "sail ho" is heard again and yet again "sail ho" all running in from the eastward apparently for shelter -- the Mary and Emma of 45 tons and 65 days out bound to the diggins. The next was the brig Eliza from Glasgow bound to Valparaiso with coals. A ship next [end of page log510_052.gif] appeared in sight in regular cape Horn rig wallowing along like some great monster of the deep. We had no opportunity of speaking her but understood that she was the Alexander of Bath bound for California with a number of passengers on board several of which appeared to be ladies. As the little smack passed the ship she rolled and pitched in a fearful manner - the ladies uttering shriek after shriek thinking no doubt that each roll would be her last The vessel following the ship was a bark her name we did not learn. We all hove to that night in a place called Thete's[?] Bay and morning found us close to the land [end of page log510_053.gif] Sunday 10th {1850/02/10} This morning we worked down the straits and run into Good Success Bay followed by the Smack and anchored as we supposed close to the land; but upon hoisting out the boat and rowing to land found that we were about a mile from shore. This is a good harbor for vessels in any wind except a S. Easter and capable of accommodating fifty ships of the line and good holding ground - The bay is formed by large mountains whose peaks (we suppose) are from twelve to fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea and from the deck presents the appearance [end of page log510_054.gif] of being covered with a kind of stunted shrubery and from upon going on the shore found the mountain covered with timber; one tree which we girted[?] we found to be eighteen feet in circumference and many 100 feet high; the soil was very rich and deep, with an abundance of flowers and berries, one shrub bearing a berry somewhat similar to our common marsh crambery. The rocks which line the shore, are very massive, with cavities of great depth, worn in them by the surf . One we measured run one hundred and sixty feet in the mountain, in a straight line, when it took an upward direction, how far it extended we could not tell . The distance from the floor to the roof, was about fifteen feet. [end of page log510_055.gif] After having rafted alongside, and taken on board a good supply of water, we carved our names upon the rocks, and created a tablet on which was recorded, the day of our sailing from home, and our arrival in the Bay ; then our destination : we then went on board, and soon set sail, bidding adieu to G.S. Bay with kindly feelings toward it, for evering thing, but our reception on its shores, which was a cold one, being nothing more or less, than the overturning of our boat in the surf, and giving us all a complete ducking. It was Tuesday 6 A.M. when we left G.S. Bay, and on Thursday 8 A.M. made Cape Horn, bearing W.S.W, distant about eighteen miles, and passed it within half a mile, with a fair wind, and knowing the reputation of the Cape, [end of page log510_056.gif] and considering ourselves beyond its reach, we hoisted up our gun, loaded it, and put in some grape shot, and fired it, off full in the face of the Cape. But alass!! we have begun too soon to manifest our contempt for the hoary weather beaten Veteran. One hour after we were stuck with a heavy squall, of hail and rain from the S.W. It appeared that we had roused the old fellow, and were now to receive our punishment. Capt. Clark concluded that if we did not gain an anchorage under the lee of the Cape, we should be blown far to sea, and accordingly at 1 P.M., bore up and run under the lee of the Islands, and anchored at a place we concluded to call, Clark's Retreat, [end of page log510_057.gif] not knowing of its previous christening, by any voyager It is a small cove with ten fathoms of water. It seemed to be a singular place to anchor, nearly under lee of the dreaded Cape . The mountains towering up around us, and squalls of rain, hail and snow sweeping over them, constantly with seldom a half an hour of pleasant weather between them. The wooded part of the Island, is different from that of Good Success Bay, being of a crabbed marley growth. The shores are rocky and very precipitous, and the granite rocks look as though they could withstand the storms, of both the Atlantic and Pacific, without losing much in the conflict - [end of page log510_058.gif] We clambered up the side of the mountain, at a place where the ascent appeared to be easy, but some of us were in a very tired, and rather nervous state, before we had attained half the height, which at the place selected, was abut three hundred feet. The summit of the mountain was at length attained, and having rested, we proceeded to erect a monument of stone, kindled a fire, and sat down to meditate. Having remained an hour or more we prepared to return, and were compelled to walk on the tops of the fresh wood for some distance, which was almost as easy as any part of the undertaking, as they were compact and lead so that they [end of page log510_059.gif] resembled a coarse moss: occasionaly we would break through and sink down to our arm- pits. Near the shore we found vestages of a camp fire, with one or two indian paddles, also a grass basket, and several pieces of the wreck of some vessel. The bushes around were charred, evidences of previous fires. We sought along the shore for a stone soft enough to cut with a chisel, but we were unable to find one. Mr Powers cut upon the piece of the wreck, which we found our visit to the Cape and placed it in a conspicuous place : then we returned on board, voting the Island the most desolate place we ever saw. No place for a white man. [end of page log510_060.gif] Saturday 16th {1850/02/16} The wind having moderated, we hove up our anchor and went to sea, but did not accomplish much, the wind being dead ahead. The weather is rather unpleasant, with frequent squalls of rain hail and snow, and a heavy sea running. I almost begin to think that we are going to have some such weather, as the flying Dutchman is reported to have had, off the Cape, and if so let it come. [end of page log510_061.gif] Sunday 17th {1850/02/17} After beating yesterday, and all last night to windward, we found ourselves at 8 A.M. this morning about 8 miles west, and twenty south of the Cape. Our having made so little progress, is owing to a heavy head beat sea, together with strong easterly set of the current. In the forenoon about 11 o'clock saw the island of Diego Ramires, bearing W. by S. distant twelve miles. Monday 18th {1850/02/18} This day the wind sprung up from S.W, and blew with great fury. All sail was immediately taken in, but [end of page log510_062.gif] the fore topmast staysail, with which we wore ship. It was necessary that we should have an after sail on her, to keep her head to the sea, so we ballanced reefed the mainsail, and set the mainsail, but it was torn to pieces. A new fore topsail staysail, was bent in its place, but that did not answer the purpose, so we adopted the plan pursued by many of our fisherman, of what is termed draging "namely" lashed the kedge anchor to a spar, bent a hauser to it, but still she did not lay to to Capt Clark's satisfaction, and were compelled to resort to our torn mainsail. The jaws of the gaff were lashed down to the boom, and the peak was hoisted as high [end of page log510_063.gif] cringle of the ballance reef, which made her comfortable for the night. It blew a tornado and threw in a few hail storms to complete the affair in a generous manner - The morning 8 o'clock shipped a sea which started the deck load and fore scuttle, stove some barrels and roused some two or three passengers out of the galley. In the afternoon bent a new mainsail and stood in for the land, and came to anchor under the lee of Hermit Island in a snug cove 6 miles west of Cape Horn. While running for the land the rain and hail were so thick we could hardly discern when close aboard of it and the sea running very heavy - [end of page log510_064.gif] The spray dashing up against the base of the mountain would be carried to the height of one hundred feet. So said some of the passengers who pretend to be judges. Tuesday 19th {1850/02/19} We got under weigh this morning at 8 A.M. and stood out to sea. During the time we lay at anchor sent down top gallant yard and rigged in flying jib boom. We run along the coast during the day with wind N.W. and at evening stood well to the southward to clear the Ildefonso Isle - [end of page log510_065.gif] Wednesday 20th {1850/02/20} Early this morning saw the land on our starboard boom, which was southern of the Ildefonso's. The sea is very heavy and the wind increasing. Thursday morning, discovered that we had neared the land during the night, a distance of twenty miles, more than we had calculated upon, which is attributed to the variation of the compass, the land being Cape Noir. For the last three or four days we have accomplished but little, for what we gained one day we lost on the next. The weather has been very disagreable, rain, hail, and snow, and a head wind. [end of page log510_066.gif] Wednesday 27th {1850/02/27} This day at 8 A.M. made Land fall Island, and as the wind increased rapidly, and a heavy gale was coming on, the Capt concluded to run for a harbor. At 12 A.M. succeeded in regetting in close to the land, and run for a cove, which appeared to afford a safe anchorage. The wind which had heretofore blown regularly, now broke up into squalls, which came from all directions, one of which struck us ahead, as we neared the entrance of the harbor, an entangled the peak of the mainsail with the riggins, in such a manner, that it was impossible for a time to get the sail under [end of page log510_067.gif] controll, and during this time, the Brig altered her course so greatly, that we were unable to obtain the desired spot of anchorage, and was accordingly brought to anchor, under the nearest land. The position of the Brig was critical. The land near us was a mountain of great height, and the base of it was composed of large jagged rocks, and the only protection afforded the Brig from the heavy sea, was by a ledge, running out some distance from the N.W. base of the mountain, and from the S.E. a number of rocks, of large size, some of them sunken which formed a protection from the sea in that quarter. At 2 P.M. the wind increased starting from the N.W. and blew [end of page log510_068.gif] terrificaly. During the afternoon and evening the squalls increased in number and violence The Brig drifted so that with the extra scope given her she was in fearful proximity to the chain of rocks in the S.E. At 11 P.M. in one of these heavy gales the larger chain parted and general opinion of all on board was that in a few minutes more the good brig Amelia would be no more. The crew foreward had been engaged in packing up their most valuable goods whilst the passengers were selecting and bestowing about their persons some few articles they most valued The officers had done all that could be done for her safety and were anxiously awaiting the parting of the small chain [end of page log510_069.gif] The kedge anchor had upon the parting of the large chain been bent to the hawser and carried ashore to assist the small one and was no doubt instrumental in saving the Brig, although littled dependence was placed upon it. Untill half past three the squalls continued the same in violence but did not bring so heavy strain on the cable for they were a kind peculiar to country appearing at one time to come with like violence from all points of the compass, and again as if they discharged from aloft directly down upon the deck of the vessel one being unable to stand erect under them. At 3 o'clock a squall struck her partly on her side and passed off without causing any mischief, but we all rushed upon [end of page log510_070.gif] deck thinking she had parted the other chain. After this the wind hauled to the west and became moderate; and after a heavy fall of rain the weather was pretty good. At daylight and at 9 A.M. got underweigh and went to sea with feelings greatly relieved. The danger we had escaped was imminent. We were so near the ledges that there was not the least possible chance of escaping them by making sail, had our small chain parted and she struck we should have gone to pieces at once or been swept over to sea bilged and unmanageable. We might have succeeded in saving the boats and and by means of them worked our way into the straits and found some vessel passing [end of page log510_071.gif] through would receive us. Next morning upon overhauling the small chain we found one link broken half off and another split, so we considered our escape in the light of a miracle I think to much praise can not be given to the Capt. and officers for their coolness and their exertions on such an occasion. No anchorage for a day or two. Friday March 1st {1850/03/01} This day have made but little progress owing to the strong easterly set of the current and light winds. Saturday 2nd {1850/03/02} Wind light but favor able have run the land along and are approaching Cape Pillar The mountains all along are [end of page log510_072.gif] high and of a singular shape and very barren and rugged looking. Many of their summits are covered with snow. Since we left the straits of Le Maire we have seen vast numbers of whales ducks and geese . At 6 P.M. passed Cape Pillar which is the southern point of the western entrance to the Magellin Straits - and we found a strong current selling out of the Straits which set us well to windward; good by Cape Horn Sunday 3d {1850/03/03} This morning found us out of sight of Cape Pillar but could but could discern the land on the North side quite plain. Now I am in hopes that we shall have have some pleasant and agreable weather as we are now well clear of Cape Horn - [end of page log510_073.gif] Monday 4th {1850/03/04} The old story this morning of head wind. At 9 A.M. passed a Barque steering E.N.E. and close to us thick fog and a heavy sea running. Tuesday 5th {1850/03/05} Fresh breeze from the W. Course N. by W. at 9 A.M. the fog cleared up saw a ship to windward and exchanged signals which showed her to be an American. At 12 A.M. she laid her mizen to the mast and hoisted her burgee but we could not read her name at the distance we were from her and at sundown she was out of sight. [end of page log510_074.gif] Wednesday 6th {1850/03/06} Wind S.W. course N.W. At 12 A.M. saw a Ship in the same direction as ourselves and supposed here to be the same one which we saw yesterday: but the fog coming in we lost sight of her. Thursday 7th {1850/03/07} Wind S. by W. course N.W. and a heavy sea running. Saw a large school of porpoises of a kind which we have seen but once before: with black backs and white bellies and noses. [end of page log510_075.gif] Tuesday 12th {1850/03/12} The four proceeding days have been much the same as usual and not afforded anything of interest. The weather has been thus far very hazy so that it was impossible to get a sight that could be relied on. At 12 A.M. made land bearing E. by N. and supposed it to be the Island of Juan Fernandez as we had been running for it for the purpose of obtaining supplies. We bore up for it and at dark were within six or eight miles when the brig was hove to for the night. At daylight made sail and stood for a point which was supposed to indicate a harbor The wind was light and a good part of the day was spent in working up to it and it presented [end of page log510_076.gif] a different appearance to that of last evening. Then the island appeared to be twelve or fourteen miles long - but now proves to be not more than half that length. The land was of great height and a portion of it was completely enveloped in clouds - Wood and water seemed to aboud and it was the intention of the Captain to land but upon a close examination we could not find any spot which afforded a safe landing: so we knew it must be Massafuero an island eighty miles to the westward of Juan - and accordingly stood for Juan Fernandez and arrived there the night of the fifteenth of March {1850/03/15}. The island appears as you approach it from the west to be quite long. The northwest part - which is Cumberland bay is the [end of page log510_077.gif] highest part and gradually declines until you reach the extreme south-eastern point when it again rises but not to the same elevation as the north western part. The land is much broken up. Deep gullies present themselves through the whole extent and as we neared the N.W. part every ey was anxiously seeking out a harbour but nothing rewarded their search until we discovered a brig steering out from the land and by the aid of the glass saw two more vessels anchored in shore so we presumed that must be the long looked for harbor and as we were beating in spoke the Bark which was the Union from from Boston 120 days out bound for California with 100 passengers. They gave us three cheers which we promptly returned. Night came on before we had [end of page log510_078.gif] ascertained the position of the harbour but we continued to beat in without any knowledge or fear of danger relying on our Captains good fortune and good management. As we approached one of the vessels at anchor, showed a light which served to pilot us in so that at ten o'clock we were at anchor at fifteen feet of water, or I should say fifteen fathoms of water, at the side of a full rigged brig, and a topsail schooner. Fishing lines were soon got over the side and it was a joyful sight to us for we knew that we should have fresh fish for breakfast. During the night, our ears were saluted with the neighing of horses - the braying of asses and the barking of dogs - [end of page log510_079.gif] all running wild on the island. Soon after coming to anchor we were visited by several persons from the brig which was the Galon of New Bedford 155 days out and like ourselves bound to California. They informed us that the island had been vacated by the troops and the families that formerly had possession of it and that its present few inhabitants had settled on it for the purpose of cutting the wood to supply vessels and to catch the fur seal. They stated, that we would not be able to get other supplies than wood and water. but could get quantities of peaches and quinces, with but the trouble of gathering them. They had suffered much from provisions, and the leaking of the brig, which was so bad as to keep them most of the time at the pumps - [end of page log510_080.gif] They had lost one of their passengers, he having jumped over board in a fit of insanity. He had become quite melancholy soon after leaving home, and endeavored to commit suicide by cutting his throat, and not being able to accomplish it, he took advantage of an oppertunity that offord, and jumped over board. They stated that almost every vessel that rounded the Horn, had lost one or more, by sickness, and on board the Union, there had been much difficulty among the passengers. The Doctor of the Union had been put in irons, for attempting to poison one of the men on board. Eeary in the morning I went ashore and was delighted with the appearance of things. [end of page log510_081.gif] The mountains towered up above us, one of them to the height 5285 feet above the level of the sea. It would be impossible for me to describe the vast quantities of fruit trees. The vallies were filed with peach, quince, cherry & fig trees, and the fruit of the first was of the finest quality - and many of the trees were breaking down with their delicious burden. The cherry and fig were not in season - There are twelve inhabitants on the island. Two of them are from Chile with their families - the others were persons who had been left there by their own wishes by whale vessels. We were surprised to find a yankee one of the oldest residents of the island. He was from Whiting. Me and had been there for the [end of page log510_082.gif] last three years : having lived nine months on Massafuero all alone and the rest of the time on Juan Fernandez - He had been quite unfortunate according to his own story having accumulated by sealing $1000 and being anxious to leave Massafuero and wishing to carry his furs to Valparaiso for a market he agreed with the Captain of a Chilian schooner that touched at the island to take him and his effects to that place. His furs were embarked, and while he was on shore for his dog, the vessel left him on the island, since which time, he has not heard anything of her, and not being able to follow, was obliged to stay three months longer on the island, with no means of support but that obtained by [end of page log510_083.gif] his dog. He was finally taken off by a whale ship, and brought over to Juan . He gave us much information in regard to Juan, stating, that twelve years ago, there were nearly fifteen hundred souls on the island. It had been used by the Chilian government, as a place of confinement for criminals, and a body of soldiers were stationed there to guard them. There had been a large house erected for the Governer, and several plain but comfortable ones, for the subordinates, and a chapel had also been erected for their use. The convicts were compelled, to dig caves about mid-way up a mountain, where they were confined, when not engaged on the public works. [end of page log510_084.gif] There were seven caves of different sizes - The largest was about eighty feet - long, twenty wide, floor level and the ceiling arched, and appeared to be more comfortable as residences, than the wretched huts on the island. Soon after this time, there had been a revolt among the troops, seconded by the convicts, and the officers were compelled to convey them to Valparaiso. The buildings were all destroyed, and the land left without inhabitants; since which time, the crews and passengers of vessels, have visited the caves, and cut their names on the walls, till they were covered. Two fortifications had been erected, to command the harbour, and the walls of [end of page log510_085.gif] one of them, was in a fair state of preservation, and had the appearance of having been erected for a fort, with officers quarters &c The convicts had done a great amount of labor Walls had been built for inclosing tilled land, and were seen in various places. A rude trench had been made, to convey fresh water some distance down to the landing, a place where a break-water had been built, for the security of boats. Lines were to be seen on the sides of the steep mountains, drawn as it were with a pencil, which we were told, were made tracks, and before we left we had the pleasure of seeing one of the chilians on a mule, winding his way over the mountains, into the interior as we were told [end of page log510_086.gif] for the purpose of getting a supply of goat meat, which is to be had, some few miles from the shore - After getting a supply of wood, and water, we proceeded to gather a quantity of fruit, and brought on board some twenty bushels of peaches, and five of quinces. The crews and passengers of the brig Galon, as also of the schooner Ruby of Stueben, 113 days out, were engaged in the same occupation; namely, gathering fruit. There were five huts on the island, and the occupants appeared to be contented, if they obtained sufficient to keep soul and body together - At one of the huts, they were engaged in pealing and drying peaches, for future use, and we spent some time in their society. [end of page log510_087.gif] The females appeared to posses little life, and frolic with about the same quantity of modesty, that mother Eve did, when she partook of the fruit of the tree of good and of evil. We were told that there were plenty of goats in the interior, and many wild horses - and asses, with some dogs and cats . On friday evening, the Ruby got underweigh, and went to sea - Saturday morning we hove our anchor up, and followed, leaving the Galen in port. As we were running out of the harbour, we saw a cave in a small bay, which was said to have been that of Robinson Crusoe. I intended to have gone round to see that famous spot, but put it off too long, and had to leave without having my curiosity satisfied - [end of page log510_088.gif] There are no foul to be obtained, but goats meat and little vegitables. They raise barley enough for their own use; and if you want wood, you can get it by paying $8. per boat-load, or clamber up the sides of the mountains, cut and carry it, the distance of half a mile to the boats. On the little island adjoining Juan Fernandez, we were told that we could get as many goats as we wanted, for the trouble of going after them. So ends Juan Fernandez naration - Monday 28th {1850/03/28} Since leaving Juan, there has occurred nothing of any note. On the second day out we got [end of page log510_089.gif] the south east trades, and our course being north west had the wind dead aft, and are making the best possible use of them, and the peaches - which make a very rare dish - We crossed the tropic of Capricorn on the 21st. {1850/03/21} At 11 A.M. spoke the brig George Shattuck, of Boston bound to California, and is the same one we spoke when only fourteen days out. He said he had touched at Talcahuano, and had there been told by the Capt. of a vessel from San Francisco, that the city had been burned up, and that the inhabitants were dying off by hundreds, from sickness and exposure. This certainly looks bad, to stay at home was to be poor eternally, to live on board this [end of page log510_090.gif] vessel much longer, is to be eaten up by bed-bugs, and then to go to California was to be burnt up by fever this looks - to me rather hard. Friday April 12th {1850/04/12} Since speaking the G. Shattuck, nothing more than usual has occurred, and that is not much - We crossed the Equator on the 7th {1850/04/07} in longitude 104§ 33. W- #s000 00S#e $s104 33W$e We lost the trades in 3" south and have not got the N.E. trades. We saw a schooner to leeward, and supposed her to be the Mary and Emma, but being somewhat nearer now we found that we mistook. [end of page log510_091.gif] At 12 A.M. she was about four miles distant, and at 1 P.M. she sent on board of us a boat, containing the Capt., two passengers, and two seamen belonging to the schooner Anglo of eighty tons bound to San Francisco, with a cargo of pumpkins, sweet potatoes, onions, and eggs, from Payto, 21 days out. She left San Francisco the 1st of January last {1850/01/01}, and gave us some cheering news. Capt. Clark sold him some beef, and got from him some onions, pumpkins,and sweet potatoes. They remained with us all afternoon, and left us in the enjoyment of good spirits, and - sweet potatoes - The Anglo had come close alongside before they left, and on parting we gave them a gun, and three cheers, which they promptly returned, and proceeded on their voyage - [end of page log510_092.gif] Tuesday 16th {1850/04/16} Wind N.E. by E. We got the trades on the 13- and pressing[?] trades they are - This morning we saw sail eight or ten miles ahead, at noon about four miles to windward, on our beam, and during the afternoon - she ran down for us, and at 6, was alongside and spoke her. The was the Volcent[?] of and from St. John, N. Brunswick - Captain Clark making more than a usual blunder, only learned her name (which we read on her stern) and time out, which was 159 days - She too appeared to have a number of passengers. Lat 16§ 08" N Long 117§ 55 W #s016 08N#e $s117 55W$e [end of page log510_093.gif] Tuesday 23nd {1850/04/23} During these 24 hours, have crossed the tropic of Cancer, Long 128. 20 W also have for the second time the perpendicular rays of sol. upon our head I have hitherto forgotten to mention, our having seen about, what is called the diamond fish, when crossing the line. This fish was judged by all on board, to be fifteen feet wide, by twelve long, and accompanied by two other fish, about as large as a common cod fish, which never left him and seemingly, directed his every movement, which was slow and uncouth, and had the appearance of having two heads, If we had had a harpoon, we would have taken him - [end of page log510_094.gif] Thursday 25th {1850/04/25} Wind N.E. by E steering N.W. by W making rapid progress, towards that golden land we so long to see. Many on board seemingly enjoying themselves, at the idea of getting there soon, and actually think, that they feel the gold dropping into their pockets. Lat 27§ 35" N. Long 130§ 15" W #s027 35N#e $s130 15W$e Friday 26th {1850/04/26} Nothing to note to day, except that our steward being taken sick this morning - He was by a fit of fainting and vomiting, and has been quite ill during the day - [end of page log510_095.gif] Saturday 27th {1850/04/27} Light variable winds which denote our having run through the trades. Now for a westerly wind, and a few days, will suffice to end this long very long voyage - I am happy to be able to write, that the steward is better to day. Lat 29§ 51" N Long 132§ 52" W #s029 51N#e $s132 52W$e Sunday 28th {1850/04/28} During the fore part of the day, light wind from N.E, to E, during the remainder of the day, calm. Rather dull music, nothing going on to excite our [end of page log510_096.gif] interest, or amuse us. O for a something, to break the monotony, a gale of wind, only let it come from the west. At 3 P.M. caught two large sea fowl, with hook and line, the largest measuring from tip to tip of wing, upwards of eight feet. After keeping them on board some two hours, we released them, not until we had fastened about their necks, a piece of leather, with brass wire, with the name of the brig, date, &c - At 5 P.M. passed a bottle, corked, and sealed, in which could be seen something like paper. The breeze was very light at the time, and she was not going through more than one knot, but the Capt would not allow a boat to be [end of page log510_097.gif] lowered, which is just like him, but we will be even with him yet before we leave - Lat 30§ 23" N. Long 133§ 50" W #s030 23N#e $s133 50W$e Monday 29th {1850/04/29} During the fore part of the day, calm. Latter part light wind from N.E. course N.W. Rather poor prospect of taking dinner in San Francisco next Sunday, as had been prognosticated by some of the wise ones on board. I have been at work cleaning my tools, and getting things in order, for I cannot spare time in California where every thing has to be purchased at such a price. And we must remember that time is money. [end of page log510_098.gif] Tuesday 30th {1850/04/30} A light wind and variable. General Course N.E. This is what Capt. Clark says when it is calm - hard-hard-hard- I should like to see him make it softer Lat 31§ 51" N. Long 154§ 53" W #s031 51N#e $s154 53W$e Wednesday May 1st {1850/05/01} Strong breeze from E. by S- steering, N.N.E. course, which looks a little more like getting to the promised land. [end of page log510_099.gif] Thursday 2nd {1850/05/02} Wind S.E. by E. blowing heavy, with an ugly sea : vessels course N.E. They say that it is almost impossible to get an observation the sky is overcast. Lat 35§ 58§ N. Long 132§ 47" W #s035 58N#e $s132 47W$e Friday 3d {1850/05/03} Strong gale from S.S.E. with a heavy sea. Vessels course E.N.E. Our Latitude by obs is 38§ 11" North long. by D.R. 130§ 56" west which shows our position to be, 22 miles N. and 418 west of the port. Oh: for the wind, three points free, and in less then three days, would find the #s038 11N #e $s130 56W$e [end of page log510_100.gif] the Old Hogan past the heads, and in the bay of San Francisco. At 4 P.M. the weather is thick, and raining, and has the appearance of a long storm; bad weather to approach a strange coast. The weather is very uncomfortable, and a seat in the galley is more thought of, and sought after, than a seat in the cabin, for there we have no stove, and never had one - Saturday 4th {1850/05/04} During the fore part of the day, fresh gales. Vessels making E. by W course. In the afternoon light wind : course E.N.E. Thick fog all day, and rain ; no observation yet : weather cold and disagreable [end of page log510_101.gif] The weather in this ocean is much different from what I expected, for we have scarcely a day, in which the sun has shown before 12 o'clock - The air is filled mostly, with a thick haze, which has the same effect upon our brig, that a thick veil has, upon a lady's face. All on board are in a state of impatience, and pray for a fair wind. We are getting far to the north of the port, which according all accounts is a position generally sought after. To me it does not appear to have been to our benefit, although it may yet turn out well, and for the best - [end of page log510_102.gif] Sunday 5th {1850/05/05} Ho! for San Francisco !! Fresh wind from N.W. : steering by compass, E. by N. Owing to the density of the fog, much reliance cannot be placed in the observation to day. All hands are up and doing : most of them are writing letters home, or for home. Our near proximity to the port, fills my brain with singular sensations, when I think of the distance I am from my native land, and from all whom my heart holds dear - If dame Fortune will but smile upon me to a moderate extent, in the future, I will [end of page log510_103.gif] return to my native land, within the space of three years, if alive and well. Monday 6th {1850/05/06} Thick fog and a strong breeze. As we are fast nearing our port, the sailors, and I may as well say the passengers too, are engaged in taking of the chafing mats from the rigging, putting on some new ratlings, preparatory to entering port. Between 11 and 12 o'clock we hove to for the Capt had got an observation, which though not a good one, yet he did not feel inclined to run any further until, it cleared up [end of page log510_104.gif] Shortly after heaving to, it cleared up a little and the cry of "sail ho"! again and again all hove to like ourselves - But the most cheering cry was land ho ! on our starboard bow, which were the rocks or islands called the situated and lying about 20 miles from the main land. Now the course is taken from chart, and we are standing in for the long, long looked for port. After running but a short time, we made the land dead ahead, and a pilot boat coming out of the port, Capt Clark with his usual boldness, stood boldly in, and soon the masts and yards of hundreds of ships, greeted our longing [end of page log510_105.gif] eyes, and there lay before us the golden city, where a fortune is said to be had so easily: but I think of the old adege, "all is not gold that glitters" but time will tell the tale By 4 o'clock we were safely anchored, and a number of shore boats came along, and questions and answers followed in quick succession . All was excitement, hurry, and bustle. Scarcely were the anchors down and sails furled, befor the boats were hoisted out, and the Capt, - and a number of passengers went ashore. I did not leave the ship that night but waited with impatience for their return. The news they brought were not very cheering - [end of page log510_106.gif] as they reported wages low, and board high. What more need I add. Tomorrow I go ashore see this new Eldorado for myself, and those who have followed me through this long and tedious voyage, are as joyful no doubt, to find the end is so near, as I am at arriving at San Francisco. And to the reader of these lines, I would ask, to make all due allowances, for this is my first attempt at journal writing, and I rather think it will be my last Written By Alexander Boyd. Jr. San Francisco May 6th 1850 {1850/05/06} Eastport Me. [end of page log510_107.gif]