LBNL Homepage Yosemite Valley, Sept 28 2002 NERSC Homepage


After taking a weekend off (gasp!), it was back to the Valley this weekend. On Friday night, Rod and I headed out and camped at Hardin Flats. At around six in the morning, we were woken up by a few sprinkles of rain, which went away fairly soon. Since it was still dark, and I was feeling lazy, we went back to sleep, to be awoken again at 7 by heavier rain. Deciding enough was enough, we quickly threw everything into the car, had a quick breakfast, and headed into the valley.

We had originally planned to do Central Pillar of Frenzy, but considering the temperamental nature of the weather, we decided a long route would be a mistake. So insead we headed for El Cap, to have some fun on the single pitch routes at the base. After warming up on Pine Line (5.7), we made for the famous Moby Dick (10a) - a beautiful splitter crack that starts out with thin fingers, and slowly gets wider, 'till it gets to off-fist size at the top. After Rod follwed me up, I decided that I really needed to try out the infamous Ahab (10b). The guide has the lovely quote "Ninety nine out of a hundred 5.13 gym climbers would be completely shut down by this climb." I can certainly agree! Slick, flared, offwidth. Ick! I even managed to get a no hands, no feet rest, and I wasn't sitting on a ledge - all I had to do was inhale.... After I finally grunted and squirmed my way to the top, Rod finished off the climb by leading the second pitch, a very pleasant 5.8.

We paused for lunch, then walked over to La Cosita. I lead the right side, a super slick 5.9 finger sized lieback. Rod followed, then we went around to the other side and Rod led the left side variation, the steepest 5.7 in the valley, or so the guide claims. Unfortunately, just as he was nearing the top, it started to rain again, and got stuck for a few minutes as he had no friction to make the last little move. After making it up, I followed and then had a little fun on the Sparkling Giveaway (11a), which goes up the arete just to the right.

I was looking at Sacherer Cracker when the rain decided to get serious. After a few minutes, the rock got wet enough that even if it stopped, it wouldn't be climbable for a while, so we packed it up and headed out. We went to Curry village to wander through the mountain shop, and inquired about the weather while we were there. The forcast for Sunday was much the same as for Sat, so we bailed and headed back to Berkeley. Oh well, there will be other trips!


thumbnails


The mists streaming over El Cap, from the base of Pine Line
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Charles on the first pitch of Moby Dick
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Rod on the top of Moby Dick
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Cathedral from the top of Mody Dick
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Charles, half way up La Cosita, left
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Rod on La Cosita, right
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last modifed on: Monday, 04-Aug-2003 17:17:08 PDT