After taking a weekend off (gasp!), it was back to the Valley this weekend.
On Friday night, Rod and I headed out and camped at Hardin Flats. At around
six in the morning, we were woken up by a few sprinkles of rain, which
went away fairly soon. Since it was still dark, and I was feeling lazy,
we went back to sleep, to be awoken again at 7 by heavier rain. Deciding
enough was enough, we quickly threw everything into the car, had a
quick breakfast, and headed into the valley.
We had originally planned to do Central Pillar of Frenzy, but considering the
temperamental nature of the weather, we decided a long route would be a
mistake. So insead we headed for El Cap, to have some fun on the single
pitch routes at the base. After warming up on
Pine Line
(5.7), we
made for
the famous
Moby Dick
(10a) - a beautiful splitter crack that starts out
with thin fingers, and slowly gets wider, 'till it gets to off-fist size
at the top. After Rod follwed me up, I decided that I really needed to
try out the infamous
Ahab
(10b). The guide has the lovely quote "Ninety
nine out of a hundred 5.13 gym climbers would be completely shut down
by this climb." I can certainly agree! Slick, flared, offwidth. Ick!
I even managed to get a no hands, no feet rest, and I wasn't sitting
on a ledge - all I had to do was inhale.... After I finally grunted and
squirmed my way to the top, Rod finished off the climb by leading the
second pitch, a very pleasant 5.8.
We paused for lunch, then walked over to
La Cosita.
I lead the right
side, a super slick 5.9 finger sized lieback. Rod followed, then we
went around to the other side and Rod led the left side variation,
the steepest 5.7 in the valley, or so the guide claims. Unfortunately,
just as he was nearing the top, it started to rain again, and got
stuck for a few minutes as he had no friction to make the last little
move. After making it up, I followed and then had a little fun on the
Sparkling Giveaway
(11a), which goes up the arete just to the right.
I was looking at Sacherer Cracker when the rain decided to get serious.
After a few minutes, the rock got wet enough that even if it stopped,
it wouldn't be climbable for a while, so we packed it up and headed out.
We went to Curry village to wander through the mountain shop, and
inquired about the weather while we were there. The forcast for Sunday
was much the same as for Sat, so we bailed and headed back to Berkeley.
Oh well, there will be other trips!
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