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Personal
Diary Account by Capt. John Charles Currier of the 21st U.S.
Infantry at Promontory on May 10, 1869
Submitted by Daughter Harriet Currier
Hale
Brookline, Massachusetts, January, 1934
The following journal was kept by my father, Capt. John
Charles Currier of the 21st Infantry U.S.A.
My father and mother, who was Nataline B. Smith -
daughter of Waterman Smith of Manchester N.H., were on their
way to California and it was their wedding journey also.
My parents had planned to go to Cal. to the Presidio at
San Francisco where my father was to rejoin his regiment,
but he received orders to proceed at once to Omaha, Neb.
there to wait for the completion of the two great railroads
which were the first to join the east and west; so instead
of sailing around Cape Horn my parents were among the
comparatively few who were present at the "joining of the
ties" of the transcontinental railroad in 1869.
Friday, April 16, 1869
Bid farewell to friends in New Hampshire and turned my
face Westward. This time I do not travel a single man -- No
I have a little wife to share my joys and sorrows. We took
the 11:15 train from Manchester for Boston. Col. Smith,
Gustie, Hattie Hale, Harry her husband, Nellie Smith and my
own Sister Julia went along with us to Boston -- We arrived
in Boston at 1:30 P.M. -- took a carriage and drove to the
Tremont House. Hattie H & wife remained with us until
the boat train left at 4:00 P.M. -- We bid last good bye and
Nattie shed a few tears over it -- Reached Newport at 8:00
-- Went immediately aboard the boat and after a light supper
retired. - This is a quiet boat and a quiet company aboard
--
Saturday, April 17, 1869
Got up at 7:00; found ourselves in New York harbor --
Drove to the Hoffman House where we got an elegant suite of
rooms. This is a fine hotel and fine prices kept upon the
European plan -- Slept till 11, then got breakfast -- During
afternoon we drove about the city down Broadway to the
Battery, back up Fifth Avenue -- Several of my friends
called -- Took 8:45 express for Washington; got a
section in sleeping car -- passed a comfortable night --
Sunday, April 18th Washington D.C.
Arrived here at 7 A.M. Found my rooms awaiting me which
we proceeded to occupy at the National Hotel. Got breakfast,
then hired a buggy and drove about the city; visited all the
points of interest the public buildings -- up 14th St. in
fact I went over all my familiar places. The old town looks
just as it did when I left two years ago. I will describe
the buildings. The Treasury is an immense building fronting
on 15th St., built of granite with immense columns of fluted
granite. The wings are elegant. In there nearly two thousand
men are employed besides several hundred women. The Patent
Office is on 7th St., it takes up tow whole blocks,
extending from 7th to 9th. The material is marble and the
walls are two feet thick. Opposite is the Post Office of
same material though not so pretentious as its neighbor.
Inside is a perfect bee hive. The War & Navy Departments
are on 17th St. very near each other -- built of brick --
The former Dept. had during the war a dozen buildings, so
extensive did its business become. The Second Auditors and
Q.M. Genls [Generals] Office are not owned by the
Govt but rented. They are very large and filled to over
flowing with clerks; the Second Auditor at one time had
upwards of five hundred alone. The Presidents House on Penn.
Avenue faces Lafayette Park and is of Virginia Marble; (it)
presents a handsome appearance surrounded as it is by
beautiful grounds with fountains playing. Lastly the
National Capital stands par excellence above all others, the
finest building in this country and equal to any in the
world. It is situated on Capitol hill and it with its
grounds covers ____ acres -- the material of finest white
marble carved and mounted on every post. The whole building
is a study, the front facing Southward and both House and
Senate Wings are ornamented with Statues in bronze &
Marble, (and) pictures illustrative of the rise and progress
of our Nation. Settlers, Indians, Quakers & heroes of
the Revolutionary War are blended together. The grounds
outside are of most beautiful design; great trees thick with
foliage, green grass, the odor of flowers. Easy rustic seats
invite the first passenger to stop & take a rest. The
weather being warm, we are glad to avail ourselves of the
privilege open to all. So we recline under the trees, look
up at the immense building before us whose towering dome
stands 250 feet above the basement and wonder how soon we
shall see our Country Mistress of the World. The sun shines
bright and as warm as we find June; the trees are in lovely
green; the breeze just mild enough to be pleasant. Nature
seems to be all smiles this morning. This is the Sunny South
towards which yon Goddess of Liberty 12 feet high looks and
how delightful for this invalid -- It seems to me I would
like to be sick if I were permitted to lounge under these
trees every day and drink in the many delicious odors from
the many flowers that bloom all about me. Leaving the
Capitol grounds, we went back to our carriage and drove home
to our hotel.
Monday, April 19th
The Sun was shining right into my room this morning and
I got up quickly. After breakfast N and self went to the
Capitol. Sam Lord of Manchester showed us about the
building. We visited House of Representative Committee
Rooms, Speaker's Room etc. They are all finished and
furnished in the most costly manner. The engines for heating
and cooling the building are remarkable; an immense fan 20
feet in diameter blows in winter heated and in summer cold
air into all the rooms of the Capitol. Every grove and hinge
and joint of these engines fit so nicely and run so smoothly
that you can not hear a single sound. Standing within five
feet of the works, I heard no noise than I could in the
parlor. A crowd of hungry looking office seekers thronged
the corridors and ante rooms of the Senate which body was in
"Executive Session". The office seekers are waiting
to see what action is being taken upon their names. The
House is not in Session. We looked through nearly all the
Senate Committee rooms. Back to dinner at 5 o'clock. After
dinner we took in Will Brody and Sister and drove to
Arlington where is the Cemetery of Soldiers. Under the green
sod sleep these 16000 (sixteen thousand) "boys in blue" who
fell in defense of their country. There's little white head
stones in regular rows and the green mounds stretching off
almost out of sight present a beautiful yet mournful
appearance. The grounds are well kept up. The sod on these
graves is green and the generous hand of loving woman has
planted flowers that bloom perpetually, a tribute to the
fallen brave. Many, very many are marked "unknown".
We went through "Arlington House", formally the house
of Rebel Genl Lee, now the office of the Keeper of the
Cemetery. We wandered through its deserted rooms, its walls
marked with charcoal and begrimed with dirt, through the
once proud parlors -- the halls and conservatory now
tenantless and silent, its very blinds closed as if ashamed
to admit Gods sunlight, the wing resounds to our tread, the
air damp, dark & close and grouped (?) out upon the
porch now leaning to one side as if about to fall. On this
porch during the War many a weary, dusty travel-worn soldier
in blue rested his head upon this knapsack and drank deep
draughts of water from the spring near by. Looking from the
Porch this fresh sunlight comes pouring in. As it goes down
gradually in the South west, it gladdens our hearts, being
such a change from the sorrows we just left. Then right
before us lies the city of Washington with its many spires.
Does the mind of Robert E. Lee ever wander back to this
scene of his early Manhood, and does his conscience ever
receive any twinges when he remained true to the old flag.
Slowly turning away we rode back to the city, every one
feeling little inclined to talk. We returned by Long Bridge
and reached the city just as the setting sun was gliding the
West. Long Bridge acquired quite a National reputation
during the War. It is a mile long; the Potomac spreads
itself out like coy woman. Got a late supper had a few calls
before retiring.
Tuesday, April 20th 1869
Rained today for the first time since we left home. This
afternoon was a regular reception day at the White House for
Mrs. Grant. I got a closed carriage and we drove up. Met not
only the ladies but Pres. Grant himself. He looks a little
more careworn than he did four or five years ago in the
field. The last time I saw him was at City Point when he was
investing Petersburg, Va. He is kind, easy and graceful to
all. Came up a heavy thunder shower but we did not get wet.
Packed up for leaving. I have got orders to join my
regiment. They are now enroute for San Francisco.
Wednesday, April 21st
Left on the 9:30 A.M. train; arrived in Baltimore at
11:30 drawn across the city and took 1:00 train for
Harrisburg; arrived in H. at 3:15. Stopped in this the
Capitol of Pennsylvania only 3/4 of an hour when we got off
on the Pittsburgh Fort Wayne & Chicago R. R. for
Chicago. Got a nice section in its Palace Sleeping Car,
finest one I ever saw. We are told that we keep this car
until we arrive in Chicago. Senator Howe, Robert Lincoln,
son of ex Prsdt Lincoln & others, were along. Supper at
Altoona Base of the Alleghenies. Leaving Altoona about dark
we commenced to ascend drawn by two stout engines. It was
bright moonlight and I lay awake watching from my window the
windings of the road as it passed round and round on its way
up the mountains. At times when going round a curve I could
see a thousand feet into the abyss below; the scenery is
wild and grand.
Thursday April 22nd
6 a.m. Awakened this morning by the conductor shouting
"Alliance [Alliance, Ohio] 20 minutes for
breakfast". I scrambled up & pulled on my clothes in a
hurry, not liking to lose my morning meal. My wife concluded
she would rather lie an hour or two longer, so I breakfasted
by myself -- made a respectable meal off longer, so I
breakfasted by myself -- made a respectable meal off of hot
cakes, coffee and beef steak. Towns are thick now; we are
far beyond the mountains and running 30 miles an hour. We
pass station after station in rapid succession; this in
Ohio. 3:40 P.M. just dined at Ft. Wayne in Indiana; got a
splendid dinner; off again like chain lightening. 10 o'clock
P.M. Sherman House Chicago, arrived here half an hour ago;
got nice rooms and a hot supper & bath.
Friday April 23rd
Slept very soundly last night and feel very nice this
morning. This a very fine hotel; took a 11:00 breakfast and
the best one I ever ate in any hotel. After breakfast and a
cigar, got a carriage and drove round the city. Down Wabash
Avenue to the lake, back up Michigan Avenue to the Water
works, immense works that supply the city with water drawn
from the lake two miles out by means of a tunnel under the
Lake. Chicagoans boast that this is one of the greatest
achievements of the 19th century; it is a wonderful piece of
engineering. The wheel around [which] passes the
main belt is 25 ft. in diameter; the water is forced by four
powerful engines of 600 horse power each. Leaving the water
works we drove to a carriage tunnel under a river; took a
five o'clock dinner at our hotel; its (fare team)
[meaning kitchen staff] is superb. Evening went to
see "Humpty Dumpty" at Curlys Opera House celebrated
as being a few years since the capital prize in a gift
enterprise.
Saturday April 24th
During the A.M. I walked about this city and made a few
purchases. Made up my mind after receiving a telegram from
Omaha that the right was there to go on immediately. Left on
the 3:30 train by Chicago & Northwestern R. R.; got a
section in a Pullman Palace Sleeping Car. Until night we
rode over prairies, passing many little country towns in
Illinois. The track is perfectly straight; from the rear
platform I could look back from one station and see the one
preceding it ten mile back. There are plenty of cattle sheep
& dogs. This is a splendid road. Took supper without
Nattie at a little eating station. 9:00 we have just arrived
at the Mississippi River, stopping at Fulton [Ill.].
9:20 P.M. we are across; it seems a long distance; on one
side Fulton and the other Clinton. Several Miss. steam boats
are tied to the wharf. We came over very slowly, the
moonlight shinning on the waters below, the dancing
tricolored lights of the steamers as they dance to & fro
up & down the river, the fire & cinder from the
smoke stack, the lights of Clinton beginning low down to the
river brink & rising gradually to the bluffs, the
whistle of our locomotive & low rumble of our cars over
the bridge -- added to the fact that this was the great
Father of Waters [and] made up a scene very grand
and impressive.
A large crowd was standing on the platform at Clinton,
mostly hack men or loafers. They kept up medley shouts,
yells and screeches. As we stopped they shouted in many
different voices, "Heres your bus for Iowa [H]
ouse" "[H]eres your free bus - for hotel" "Eres your
free bus for poor house," shouted a wag amused at the
spectacle; stopped 20 minutes then off again. Feeling very
sleepy, I fell off and slept soundly.
Sunday April 25th
Took breakfast at Boone, a small country town where we
got plain country food which tasted good. We are right in
the middle of a prairie, the vast expanse of land rich and
fertile spreads out like a curtain on either side. 3 P.M.
stopping for the engine to "drink"; we are nearing
Council Bluffs, for we begin to see mountains and the
country is more broken. We frequently pass bayous and
streams. Many of them are filled with duck and wild geese;
they literally cover the water. A hunter in his boat
approaches them within a rod, almost near enough to knock
them down with sticks. They rise up in a perfect cloud. Some
amateur sportsman on our train can't resist the temptation
and fires into them with his pistol. If I had a shot gun I
could lay hundred low. 4:30 P.M. at Council Bluffs a rough
new town; the buildings all smell green. I don't think the
lumber used in this building was seasoned the inhabitants,
however, are well seasoned if one can judge from these brown
faces and the oaths they use. There is a great crowd of men
on the platform. Omaha is in sight across the river in a
cloud of dust and sand. Way off in the distance I can see
our barracks. -- Metropolitan Hotel Omaha 6:30 P.M. We left
our car at Omaha, got into immense Omnibuses and rode across
the Missouri in a shuffling ferry boat, a very crazy
institution, and did not leave our bus until we reached our
hotel door. We had four splendid prancing horses evidently
used to their business. It took us twenty minutes to cross,
the wind taking us some way down stream. - I'll take a stalk
about the city having had our breakfast. Omaha is built like
all new western towns, in a very straggling manner. It is
likewise well laid off into Streets and Avenues and some day
may be a very handsome place. Small trees are planted all
over the city but as yet they have not attained a size
larger than my fist. Much business is done here, being the
depot for a great stretch of country nearly a thousand miles
ahead. They supply all the forts in Nebraska & Utah,
furnish the Mormons, fit out travelers and best of all is
the starting point of the Union Pacific Rail Road. Here all
its shops and car works; they build cars and locomotives and
have more than thirty shops and employ a little army of
workmen. The signs of progress and industry are stamped upon
the people I met. At the same time there are many red faces
and signs of dissipation; whiskey shops, beer saloons and
gambling halls all abound. They are well patronized by
Indians and Anglo Saxons. There are eight or ten churches,
several large elegant brick stores filled with a fine
assortment of goods and a few public buildings. They claim
20,000 inhabitants. Tis a pretty fast place; -- men have
grown rich suddenly and don't know the value of money. -- We
see the finest teams and dresses. The hotels are plenty for
all, small and cheaply built. Ours is the best in the place
and our room is 7 ft. by 9' furnished with a hard bed, 2
chairs and a bureau. In [the] afternoon I got a
buggy and we drove up to camp, three miles away; got there
about dark, found where the officers were and quietly walked
in upon a dozen of them, including Capt Johnston. As I
entered there was a great shout and I received a warm
welcome. We remained only a few minutes when we drove back
to our hotel.
Monday April 26th 1869
Omaha is built on the Western bank of the Missouri and
is on an inclined plain which rises gradually upwards of a
hundred feet. There is much life here and a great tendency
to movement. When the trees grow, it will be handsome. The
streets are not graded so during wet weather are perfectly
fearful-mud up to our ankles. The streets are numbered from
1 upward and avenues are Indian names. Goods are not much
higher than in Eastern cities; wood & coal are the most
expensive on account of the distance they have to be
shipped. The stores are filled with excellent goods and they
look very well. There is one street railway. Apparently
every business relation revolves around the "U. P." road, as
the Union Pacific is termed for short. You see "UP" good,
"UP" saloons, "UP" hotels, etc. A friend remarked as he
priced some stores today that everything was "UP" Here, a
very appropriate remark I think. The works of the R. R.
Company are worth looking at; they cover 15 acres of land;
twenty or thirty engines are in sight with steam up all the
time, and trains of cars so long that you can hardly see the
end. The sleeping cars are Magnificent; they are of the
Pullman make and go out every night fitted up like a steamer
for a long voyage. The Pacific Express starts every evening
at 4:00 --
Tuesday April 27th 1869
Concluded to go out to camp and live until the regiment
goes. Went out and bought a few necessary articles of
household furniture such as mattress, wash bowl &
pitcher, bedstead & a few chairs. Spread some army
blankets for carpets, put up my curtains, had a cheerful
fire built (for it is cold out here) and ushered my bride
in. She instead of being displeased appeared to like the
"situation," for she smiled and said it was quite a novelty.
We fixed up our rooms to make them look cheerful & had a
good laugh over "love in a cottage". We take our meals with
Capt Miles & wife next door --
Wednesday April 28th
A great many ladies and gentlemen called; N
[Nataline] was happy to see them. Capt J. is a
frequent visitor; all hands seem disposed to make our stay
pleasant. N. has passed the ordeal of introduction bravely.
This is a bright beautiful day. I did not go on duty; went
down in the yellow ambulance drawn by four mules; made a few
purchases.
Thursday April 29th 1869
Reported for duty. Col. O. Beirne (Capt in 32nd) is
in command of Co "I". He is a very fine gentleman and I
fancy we shall get on famously. Our camp is under the bluffs
with a large parade ground rather too extensive for comfort.
I have a set of quarters; the quarters are well arranged and
came be made very comfortable indeed. We are well provided
for as far as rations and (?) are concerned. Capt. O. B. is
not particularly strict.
Friday April 30 1869
Inspection and Muster. Nattie went out to see and
approved delighted; she likes this, her first army Post very
much; says its a great novelty and she takes an interest in
everything but especially the music. Our Band are in New
uniforms and look very well.
Saturday May 1st 1869
Received today two letters from Manchester, first since
leaving home; Nattie was delighted. Most of the ladies in
the garrison have called. Attended a fine party last night
given in town by one of the citizens to the officers of the
Twenty first; had a jolly time. N. was admired and enjoyed
the evening very much. Quite a brilliant party[;]
gave us a good supper. Met Gen. Wheaton & wife, our new
Lieut-Colonel; they are nice people and Mrs. W will be
company for Nattie. Danced till 2 this morning so we got up
late.
Sunday May 2nd 1869
Orders to leave on Tuesday for San Francisco. Had parade
in the evening. Many ladies and carriages from town out to
see it; first time our regiment has ever Paraded together,
we during the past two years having been scattered by
companies and detachments through Virginia.
Monday May 3rd 1869
To town in the morning and bought a lot of ham, beef
tongue, canned fruits, etc. supplies for our trip over land;
got ten days supply. Every body else doing the same.
Tuesday May 4th
Broke up house keeping in a hurry and packed our
household goods in boxes & trunks. Had the privilege of
riding in to the cars with Col. Coggswell in Headquarters
Ambulance. Col C. is the commanding officer so this was a
complement. Left station at 5:20 mid the cheers of a great
crowd. Fearfully warm day and dusty. Officers have an
elegant Pullman Sleeping car. Our detachment consists of
Cols "F", "G", "H", "I", & "K" commanded by Lt-Col
Coggswell. We are a gay old party; the officers are all nice
gentlemen. Johnston & Barton are with us. Besides Nattie
there are three ladies, viz. Mrs. Putnam, Mrs. Cluley &
Mrs. Ross. We will try and keep up with the Express which
started 20 minutes ahead of us. The road is excellent, we
shall have a nice trip I guess. Our car seems like a cosy
little parlor and its occupants one family. 6:30 P.M.
Fremont, a station on the "U.P." 46 miles from Omaha; We are
traveling rapidly, thirty miles an hour. The country thus
far is fine, under cultivation and well improved. We pass
many grain fields which look very green and refreshing.
Nebraska thus far presents nothing but an inviting
appearance. Every officer has his little mess, Pickles,
Meats of all kinds, bread & butter, coffee, tea,
condensed milk & canned fruits. It being supper time, by
general consent we all make our spreads on little tables
firmly fixed in the sides of the car. Just now it looks like
a restaurant, for nearly every table is covered with a white
cloth or towell. Mary, our cook, makes us some coffee with a
camphene lamp and a tin coffee boiler. We are entirely
independent of the eating saloons along the route, which are
poor.
Wednesday May 5th 1869
Morning -- At North Platte, an eating station 291 miles
from Omaha: -- Had a comfortable night; bought some hot
rolls for an addition to our food. We are now out on the
prairie and are spinning along "at 40 miles an hour". The
track stretches like the moons path on the ocean, straight
and true, loosing itself in the dim distances. We have found
the region under cultivation and find the soil dry and
sandy, not arable. Very warm in the cars but we have
excellent ventilation. "Lodge Pole" 369 miles from Omaha: We
are passing through a more broken country; to our left are
high bluffs: we see Mountains in the dim distance. The road
is now through a valley, straight and s "B" line; the rock
of the bluffs is soft lime stone. We are a jolly party; the
officers and ladies are moving about chatting, telling
Jokes, playing cards, singing and smoking. When one makes
coffee he invites two or three of his neighbors. Every
section of these cars is provided with a table.
Sydney, 414 miles from Omaha: Out of the bluffs and on
the table land, it is undulating except where our track is
laid. It seems as if the hand of Providence shaped this
country for the building of this road, for there has been a
natural path all the way from Omaha whether it be among the
bluff or on the plain. Just like I imagine the bed under the
Atlantic on which the [new] Atlantic Cable is laid.
We are right among a school of Prairie dogs. They cover the
whole face of the Earth -- their burrows in the ground
[are] like rabbits or foxes. They are about the size
of our terriers and are of snuff color with sharp pointed
noses. As we pass they scramble up on their little houses
and bark, the latter resembling the squeak of a young fox,
nimble little fellows. Bands of friendly Pawnees are in sigh
encamped along the road; they are filthy, squalid looking
beings. The Squaws carry their papooses in a bag dangling to
their backs. The males are in war paint & their fanciful
dress feathers etc. look like devils which may be they are.
Occasionally we pass troops out in a scout; they exchange
friendly greetings with our men as we whirl by. They all
look as though they had seen hard service. Whole herds of
antelopes are constantly crossing our path; the men shout at
them from the cars and send them running like the wind.
Pretty graceful creatures, they look frightened and no doubt
wonder what great fire eating animal this is that tears
along over the plains so swiftly. The soil now is dry and
sandy. The road thus far is in splendid condition; cars are
first class and accommodation equal to any Eastern road
through our most populous cities.
Afternoon -- Pine Bluff: I have just accomplished the
feat of shaving with cars running 30 miles an hour, showing
how smooth is this road and how steadily we run. We only
stop for wood and water. Its a long distance between
stations. The inhabitants of this country go armed to the
teeth and life is of little value. Accustomed to life among
the savages and men recently the Employees of the road,
mainly Irish, these hardy pioneers don't feel cosy without a
revolver is at their sides. Whether asleep or awake the hand
leaps instinctively to the knife or pistol at the slightest
warning sound. We can see snow and ice in the shady places
so we are going up hill. Yes, the conductor tells me we are
nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Cactus abounds
on all sides; tis very short and exceeding "prickly". The
cattle and ponies avoid it and leap up by instinct as they
approach a cluster; it hurts their feet. A few flowers are
seen here & there; as we lay by for water, a soldier
brought [one] over to Nattie which she pressed and
enclosed in a letter.
Evening 7 o'clock at Cheyenne -- the place so famous in
Eastern papers. A few months ago many ambitious persons were
bent on going to Cheyenne to make their Everlasting
fortunes; it sprang up suddenly; it is [at] the base
of the Rocky Mountain 5800 feet above the Sea. When the U.P.
first reached here and built its shops and round houses,
Everybody said here's the place where a great city must be
because there is no favorable location for five hundred
miles ahead; so reasoning, it grew as if by Magic. Lots in
this desert city ran up from nothing to five thousand
dollars in five days; there was a great scramble for them.
But meanwhile the U.P. passed on and lost itself in the
Mountains -- When the new City stopped growing, lots fell
and in a few days half its inhabitants, who were of the
roving Arab kind, took up their beds and journeyed westward;
it dropped back from 8000 to 3000 people in less than three
days, where it now stands. The population is of that rough
uncouth kind which always shuns the busy walks of life and
seeks new countries. Looking down its street, upon which
nearly the whole town is built, we see whiskey and beer shop
(as far as there is a house interspersed) and ready made
clothing stores and cheap Jewelry and there are the
unmistakable Jew Names; where oh where on Earth is not that
cussed race to be found. Most of the saloons are "Keg
shops"; "Fire water" is a big thing in this country. The
Officers of the 27th Inf. came to meet us. They are a nice
looking lot of fellows and seem very glad to meet us fresh
from civilization. This road has been a Godsend to them.
Stopped here an hour; then with two fresh Engines started up
the Black Hills erroneously called by many the Rocky
Mountains. There is very little Mountain about it; except
the great altitude, you would think you were in some New
England country.
1 o'clock P.M. At Sherman -- highest point between the
Atlantic and Pacific, 8200 feet above sea, and yes we have
got up here so gradually we hardly knew it -- fairly among
the clouds and in a rail car. Almost incredible two Engines
took us up much Easier than those on the Penn Central. Got
off and found the air clear cold & bracing. (I give one
long shout and go back to my berth and knew nothing more
until) --------
Thursday morning May 6th 69
Got up from My berth at 6 A.M. at "Medicine Bow Creek".
Ah! ha! we are now among the Mountains -- gorges &
canons [canyons] -- below us fifty feet runs our
creek on whose banks Indians have logged [from] time
immemorial and where only a few years ago a grand council of
Peace was held and treaties made with all the Indians in
this and surrounding territories. -- Long the Haunts of the
Red men, who desecrated as Wendell Phillip would say by the
Ruthless hand of civilization and progress! -- But this
scenery is grand indeed --
We spin along through a succession of rugged and broken cuts
rumbling [over] dizzy bridge and amid the grandest
of old places. The rock is soft limestone and crumbles
constantly. They tower sometimes as if ready to fall over on
us and crush us like pigmies as we are. We are still pretty
high up and the air is sharp. Snow is plenty yet, and we
have passed several snow gates built to prevent the snow
drifting on the track. High peaks white capped can be seen
on our left. -- 9 A.M. Stopping at Fort Stelle named for a
General of that name who died a few years ago. The road runs
right through the Fort; part of its buildings on one side
and part on the other of the track. What a great change to
the beleaguered officers and men who have been stationed
here the past five years to hear the cheerful whistle of the
locomotive and see civilization pass every day on the cars.
It seemed funny to look out and see an officer of the day in
full dress (uniform) way up here among the clouds. Formally
the only means of reaching this place was by slowly moving
mule teams. There was a general lifting of Caps. We are in
[____] territory yet. Lt Crosby got off here. The
fort is garrisoned by a detachment of the 30th Infantry. We
passed Laramie last night while all were asleep, which is an
important station and famous as being a few years ago the
scene of an Indian Massacre. 10 o'clock A.M. Stopping at
Rawlings, an Eating station. Here we got a hot breakfast and
the men made coffee. My breakfast consisted of ham &
Eggs, rolls, hot coffee. For the past hundred miles the land
has been poor, Sage grass its only production;' nothing
under cultivation. It is truly a desolate region; cattle
can't live and so we get no real milk, using instead the
substitute Condensed Milk for coffee, tea and cooking. I
recognize in this latter and old friend of the War. Many is
the time I have sat upon a log and drank My dipper full of
coffee flavored with condensed milk, but Nattie shakes her
head when I offer her some. Everything set before us on the
table, the Land-Lord says, is brought from Omaha 708 miles.
Large herds of Elk and Antelope are constantly passing; they
are invariably saluted with shots from the cars. We see many
signs of coal and carbon along the road and there are
frequently coal mines being worked by the road.
"Bitter Creek" 3 P.M. 780 miles from Omaha; our train
is much behind time; we have been losing all the time since
leaving O [Omaha], our train being a heavy one. We
are now ten hours behind but it is of very little matter,
for in the Army the motto "time is money" does not apply. At
this place a few days ago the Vigilance Committee came down
upon some roughs and gamblers and "cleaned them out"
completely. The rascals had been plundering trains and
waylaying passengers. Their demolished "shebangs" stand a
monument to all like doers. They hang men in this country on
short notice. I got a quart of bona fide milk for
[which] I cheerfully gave 25 cts; it's a great
luxury. The cattle look rather lean. Coal mines appear
frequently. What an amount of mineral wealth this soil
contains. They are all worked by the road and I am informed
that there is an inexhaustible supply of this fuel, all in
the possession of the company. We find our bills for food
etc. are lower than to citizens. These Eating Houses are all
under the control of the R.R. Company who desire to keep the
good will of Army Officers because they look to us for
protection. A discount of one third is generally made in
price of meals. There were the usual number of loafers here,
Most of them discharged Employees of the road, hard looking
fellows. This station derives its name from a small stream
running through a ravine (near by) which name is
appropriate, for the waters are stale, flat and unwholesome;
we can hardly drink it until boiled into coffee. Soil
[is] full of Alkali; so strong does it prevail that
the ground looks as though covered with frost.
700 P.M. at Green River: -- A watering station. We all "fill
up". Since leaving Bitter Creek we have passed through a
succession of high bluffs & cuts branching out from the
table land. The country is wild and rugged and presents a
much more interesting appearance to the traveler. Now the
great Sandstone ridges approach to the very track, now
suddenly secede almost out of sight. We wind along in and
out, now crossing a sluggish stream meandering along fifty
feet below, now rolling through a deep cut, the rough jagged
rocks jutting almost over our train, Just as they were left
by the blaster. Several times they approach to a frightful
proximity and we think "well that pile will surely settle
down upon us", but no, they are firmly fixed. There is
nothing to invite man to live here; no herbage, no grass,
scarcely any green thing to relieve the barren hills. The
Earth when not bunched up into hills is soft like ashes, dry
and hot. During the mid day this must be a fearfully hot
place. Successive formations of soft rock rise one above the
other and now and then one bold face looms far above its
neighbor, a rocky monolith. The air is dry and the winds
that have prevailed constantly since we turned upon the
downward slope of the Mountains is very annoying to the eyes
and skin. There is a small village of adobe huts made of the
mud; the soil here is well adopted to brick making. A man
can erect his own house with material free as water --. The
house when built is of light slate color and very
substantial. The Old Stage route had a station here in
former days. We keep along by this road and it has been in
sight now and then for the past 4 hundred miles. The
telegraph poles and well worn track cross and recross ours
up hill & down, sometimes above us sometimes beneath us,
sometime parallel & on a level, sometimes absorbed
entirely in the rail road bed. When that fords a stream, we
cross on trestle work; when that goes down into a ravine and
toils slowly up the other side, we span it with a beautiful
iron bridge. Ten miles further on "stopping for breath": we
have been following the Green River and the scenery is
magnificent! On one side the solid bank of rock into which
our road bed is carved rises perpendicularly many many feet,
in fact out of sight. It is riding along under it while on
the other [side] the Green River bottom stretches
mile upon [mile] to another succession of ridges;
(beyond which) still farther beyond them with there tops
almost touching the blue sky rise still another. -- The
Evening sun as it went down a short time ago left a long
line of red which gradually narrows and lines the gray skies
above. Coming in bold relief these white tipped mountains
and the broad expanse before me remind me of pictures of the
Old Painter. No wonder the artistic eye of Brinstedt
selected the Rocky Mountains as his Masterpiece. Such scenes
as this would inspire the pencil of the verist clod.
Beautiful! Lovely! Exclaim one and all as every eye seeks
the windows and doors.
8:00 P.M. Began getting too dark to see. We take our supper
from our lunch baskets and all are in the best of spirits.
We have got along so nicely; the usual Joke passes around.
Men get coffee here. They have started a lot of fires and as
they stand clustered about them they remind me of war times
when we would get into camp after a long days march. Not
long since, this was the end of the road; now they are more
than two hundred miles further on. The houses are of adobe
brick covered with canvas. "All aboard" and we are off for
the night.
Friday, May 7th, 1869
Awoke 7 A.M. found we were at Evanston, not quite a
hundred miles from where I left off last night. We made slow
progress owing to roughness of the road which is absolutely
awful. The most of this part was built in the winter while
the frost was in the ground which of course in the spring
must sink and become uneven. We are shaken about like corn
in a gristmill. It is impossible to stand while the cars
move without clinging to a seat for support. Resolving to
show my skill in navigating cars, I got up to go for a glass
of water. Before getting half way to the end of the car, a
sudden jerk sent me headlong into a seat of a brother
officer, knocking my nose and his hat severely. I gave it
up. We begin to see a little more green. The hills and
valleys have not the dingy dried up appearance we noticed so
much of along the road. There are signs of vegetation. We
are approaching the region ruled by "King Brigham" (Young).
We are also passing working parties of Irish and trains of
cars without numbers lying idle on the side tracks. As the
road approaches completion, these cars become too numerous
and the force is decreased. We hear that the two companies
are working in sight of each other, and each putting in
their hardest to get down the rails. The Junction will be
about the Middle of Utah territory. On the trains are all
the paraphernalia used in constructing the road, derricks,
cars made to carry powder for blasting water tanks, boarding
and lodging cars, dump cars etc.; and tools of every value
and description without numbers, hoes, hammers, drills,
shovels, picks, spades, saws, crow bars, tons and tons of
railroad iron and millions of spikes. "They say" we will be
at the "End of the Track" by night; it looks doubtful. As we
stop it is worth while to look at those cars and their
contents. Here we see the means of rapid rail road building.
Every conceivable invention for this purpose is here, and it
is somewhat amazing how so many, many machines could have
been used. Yet when we remember that the R. R. was built at
the rate of two and three miles a day, and that the work
beginning with the blasting and ending with the track layers
stretched over a space of thirty miles at a time, we cease
to wonder. I got from one of the overseers a few facts as to
how the work went on --
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First, advance men with picks
Second, Drillers
Third, Blasters (blasting rock)
Fourth, Men with crow bars
Fifth, Men with shovels to clear a way
Sixth, Men with shovels digging away hills
Seventh, Men with cars hauling dirt
Eighth, Men grading the road bed; 'Graders'
Ninth, Men laying ties
Tenth, Track layers
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1000
500
1000
1000
2000
1000
1000
500
1000
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In addition to them were men hauling ties, cutting ties,
building bridges etc. etc. so that when all were at work,
they had at one time twenty thousand men employed! An Army!
All these men required to be fed every day; they had a
commissary and quartermaster and these had innumerable
assistants. Men to see that the material was kept up to
supply this vast army of workers; Men to forward iron from
the depot back to Omaha; Men in New York, Chicago and other
eastern cities to buy and ship it. Indeed it required a
master mind to put this great enterprize through and
tremendous expense. They worked day and night. But the
triumph was worth working for. Sage is plenty again. We
retain our sleeping car another night. We will hardly get to
San Francisco before a week hence.
11:30 A.M. At Wasatch a town three months old: Nothing but a
collection of shanties; this is the end of the track open to
the public. From here hitherto all passengers have been
taken in stages to a point on the Central Pacific. But we
got a cheerful information that we will be taken on and
probably not march any distance, for the rails are very near
a Junction. Here is the most despicable lot of men we have
seen along the line. Evil, ugly, looking devils they are. A
man just told me that forty men had been killed here inside
two weeks "and it wasn't much of a week for killing either."
We are getting [a] little tired of our lunch
baskets, So we have been out and got a breakfast in a tent
but we got a nice meal, decidedly the best since leaving
Omaha. Walking to the eating house we had to cross a muddy
ditch on a single plank. The road is fearfully rough. While
waiting here the slow motion of the conductor, we saw a man
knocked down and robbed not ten rods from the cars. From
this point to the next station there is only a temporary
track put up in a hurry while waiting to complete the
permanent one which is through a deep cut and tunnel. We
learn with regret that we must give up our elegant sleeping
car because it can not, so the railroad men say, go "over
the Z". The most prominent point in this town is the
"Sherman House", a one story wooden shanty. The depot
buildings and water tanks here are substantial and well
built structures and I may say this of them all along the
line, this being part of their contract with our government.
We see green grass here, showing far better soil. A Squad of
"Snake" Indians come riding up on their little ponies. They
do not in appearance, at least, belie their name, for they
look decidedly satanic and "snaky". I saluted a seedy hand
dog looking fellow in a butternut suit with "Well My friend,
what kind of country is this?" "Umph" he grunted "it's every
man for himself and the devil take the last". I thought so
too, so quietly put my six shooter where it would be handy.
We scramble from our Pullman car and get into "cabooses"
(conductors cars) a great change from our recent luxurious
accommodations, but "they say" we shall be provided for at
"Echo" next station. We move and now we are among the
Wasatch mountains. We are promised a grand treat in the way
of magnificent scenery. Ten miles further at the entrance of
Echo Canyon a most beautiful spot; "indeed it is glorious,
exclaim one and all!" Immediately after leaving Wasatch, we
went down a fearful descent in a zigzag manner one hundred
and fifty feet in a quarter of a mile. Then we backed, then
pulled up, then backed up again in the form of a letter (Z
thus) reaching the bottom of the valley. We roll along and
see those workmen way above us engaged upon the main track.
We barely move and stop every five minutes. Our track is a
mighty insecure one. The sand rattled from under us as we
climbed the hill again. Cars are overturned on every side,
and we were informed by a cheerful brake man that we were
quite likely "some of us" to "slide the track." To those
nervous ones in our party the ride was anything but
pleasant; the danger is now over, however. Large parties of
laborers are seen now. I can count five hundred men and one
hundred fifty carts drawn by patient mules hauling dirt to
grade the permanent track where it will emerge from the
mountain. There are plows, scrapers & etc. The mules are
well trained; they climb up and down the bank, stop at the
right place and wait till their load is dumped, then take
their place in the line and go back to get another. They
look like ants. The place is black with laborers; they stand
as near together as they can shovel. Its a funny sight to
see five hundred shovels going into the air at one time.
Wells Fargos' stage route is now along side us. I suppose it
will stick to us or we to it, until we get to the end, half
a mile farther on. Stopping in Echo Canyon; we passed
through another Canyon a few minutes ago. Oh! This scenery
is grand, grand! Nature seems to have swelled with the
giants, splitting mountains asunder and stamping on every
land evidence of her most wonderful caprice. And yet again
we could imagine that an unerring Providence had here in
ages a gone cleft the mighty barriers for the very purpose
which the intelligent enterprize of the present generation
has just accomplished--the Pacific Railroad! Were it not for
this corridor in the mountains (these canyons) no power on
earth could have cleft its way through the masses of
everlasting rock. We shout for joy and our voices echo from
peak to peak and crag to crag, dying in the distance.
Someone fires a gun and the reverberations are terrific; the
mountains seemingly angry at this intrusion upon their
majestic solitude send back all manner of growls and deep
toned intonations. It seems as if we had waked up some
fearful monster, so long and loud are the echoes. We are all
delighted--
An hour later - "Echo City" in the Canyon of same name: If
the entrance was grand, this is sublimity. This is one of
the most romantic spots on Earth! It is on the banks of Bear
River, which comes down through an opening int he mountains.
On all sides rise these natural formations of rock. Below us
forty feet runs the river; on its winding banks a road is
built, hard and smooth and in excellent order. Away off in
the distance we see fertile lands and cultivated fields;
around us are buildings, nice farm buildings good enough for
any man to live in. We see little fences painted white; a
mill rumbles yonder. What is this! Two well dressed ladies
on horse back! Yes and here are stores with goods displayed
and there (is it possible?) is a "Bank", and "Temple of
Fashion" staring us in the face! What is this enchanted spot
among these fastness. The Mormons! says somebody, and that
solves the riddle. We are indeed in Brigham's domain; those
are the Mormon women we see and these improvements are by
those singular fanatics "Latter day Saints". Well, we will
take a walk outside. Hold on; here comes our quartermaster,
Capt. Johnston, with information that by reason of the
washing away of a bridge a few miles ahead, we can go no
further until Monday. At first we were inclined to murmur,
but when Mr. Dillion, an officer of the road, came up and
offered his car for the ladies and told us he should
consider us his guests, and we looked out upon the beautiful
panorama before us, we felt better. I transferred Nattie to
Mr. Dillon's car (a perfect little palace) and took a
stroll. This is truly a strong torch of civilization. There
are half a dozen good frame houses and many others of an
inferior order, tents and adobe huts. There is a street
lined with stores pretty well filled with goods, two
"hotels"; and in the bank, I am told, is stored no less than
five hundred thousand dollars. It seems incredible to
believe some of the people are Gentiles and there are two or
three families of contractors for the R. R. Co. living here.
One of the ladies came out and invited or ladies to supper.
It is dark and I am granted the privilege of sitting in the
elegant car where the ladies will abide till we move. It is
the famous "Lincoln Car" built especially for the use of our
ex president Lincoln in '64 and is without exception the
most beautiful design I ever saw. There are seats and sofas
stuffed and lined with plush & velvet; the sides of it
are likewise stuffed; carpeted with Brussells -- and window
curtains of heavy "Nep silk"., windows stained glass, and
the paneling over head is [___] upon a second tier
of windows used for ventilation and painted the coats of
arms of the several states of the Union. -- Wash stands of
marble and (?long mirrors?), it is a perfect ladies'
boudoir. Lt. Cluly is the lucky one who wins the privilege
of staying with the ladies - all the rest are obliged to
repair to our "caboose car". His wife is in ecstasy while
the rest of our little fraus look vexed. Col. Coggswell has
decided that only one officer can remain as protector to the
ladies car (which is half a mile from the main train). Our
hope now is that we will arrive at Promontory Point by
Monday noon which is fixed upon as the time for "laying the
last rail." It will be worth something, at least, to say we
were present when the Atlantic (and Pacific) were joined by
iron bands -- We all feel jolly; the lamps are lit in our
drawing room car and it is quite cool for being still nearly
six thousand feet above sea level -- I feel inspired tonight
going to sleep in such a lovely spot, surrounded as we are
by these grand old hills. After a little game of enchre,
retired.
Saturday, May 8th, 1869
Took time this morning to sleep as nobody felt like
turning our early, as we all enjoyed the luxury of a nights
rest with our cars standing still. About noon another train
came up bringing Mr. Durant, Vice President of the road, and
one or two other officers. They came in a special with their
fine car. Drawing up alongside of us, they came in,
introduced themselves, and regretted that we were delayed.
Said they would stop here with us, and insisted upon taking
care of all the ladies. We dined with them and they gave us
a dinner that surprised me. Beef roast and a la mode, ham,
two ways, oyster pie, mutton, preserves, fresh bread, cakes
and six kinds of desserts, ending with champagne and coffee.
I think this is something remarkable since all these things
have to be brought from Omaha and cooked in the "Kitchen
car" attached to the officers car where they have every
appliance for cooking and with excellent cooks. Col.
Coggswell had the Band then (to) play for us and it
dis[p]ensed fine music until tattoo. Nattie, being
not very well, her dinner was sent to her. They try to show
us every attention. The vice Prsdt. says our ladies should
occupy his car until next Monday and that he will bring us
up in season to see the last rail laid sure, so we feel good
over it. Four or five of the officers, to wit Franklin, O.
Beirne, Johnston and Burnett; went to Salt Lake City to pay
the chief of Mormons a visit. It is sixty miles from here.
Mr. Dillon informs me that they will certainly join the
rails on Monday. We are waiting for a bridge at "Devils
Gate" to be completed. He gave me some statistics. At one
time they had eight hundred teams hauling ties alone and
five thousand men engaged in getting them out and working
these teams. He says at one time they employed twenty one
thousand men. Mr. Durant has paid out one hundred and twenty
five thousand dollars in the last week. He had quite and
adventure at Wasatch; four hundred workmen boarded his car
and captured him, took him to a woods near by and held him
prisoner until the money which had been due them for weeks
and months was paid. I reckon he was some what scared. At
one time it was thought our detachment [21st
Infantry] would be called on to rescue him but he was
afraid he might lose his life in the scrimmage so
telegraphed that he would rather we were allowed to keep
right on. So we [have] just escaped a pretty lively
time it seems. Brigham Young built this section of the road
with four thousand Mormons. All the workmen were kept at
work twenty two out of twenty four and Sundays included.
Wages for ordinary labor 2.50 dollars per day, Sundays 3
dollars. I suppose since the flood no greater work when
there were so many difficulties to overcome was ever pushed
to so successful an issue and so rapidly! We are almost lost
in amazement! Everything at this "City?" is high; a small
bottle of ink [is] fifty cents. They don't deal in
anything short of twenty five; ten cent scrip is of no
account here -- cigars fifty cents each. I prefer my pipe as
being a less expensive luxury. Fortunatly for us that this
moving hotel came up and that we met the officers of the
road. This P.M. the band played again. The echos were grand.
I never heard anything so exquisite. Sometimes they sounded
like distant thunder, again like the bugle of an alpine
shepherd. I thought of that beautiful passage in Tennyson
"Blow bugles blow; set the wild echoes flying; answer echoes
answer; dying, dying, dying". This spot and our surroundings
seem almost like a fairy land, like some grotto I've read of
in Arabian nights, this quiet nook. Bear River rippling
along way way down beneath us, the toppling ragged rocks
suspended in mid air above us. Glimpses of other mountains
and other valleys caught in the opening ahead, many of their
peaks capped with snow. This wonderful railway bringing in
the highest type of civilization, springing up as if by
magic in the wilderness; the luxurious palace cars, this
Mushroom town; the constant whistles of busy engines, the
band of music, the "boys in blue" standing in line at Parade
with their muskets flashing in the sun -- all go to make up
delusion. It only needs a tall Genie to stalk into our midst
to complete it. Aladdin with his wonderful lamp never
brought forth anything more fascinating or bewitching --
Sunday, May 9th, 1869
Afternoon -- We have just received orders to move on. We
joyfully hail the news. We pass several trains which have
come up. -- Evening: We came through Weber Canyon, another
of those beautiful places where the Great Architect has made
his power manifest. We all join in the hymn "My country Tis
of Thee" and "Glory to God in the Highest". Every man and
woman in our party seems to feel the grandeur of the scenes.
Our train of soldiers is separate from the car where the
ladies are (they being in Durants car) and we are very
annoyed about them. We have all to cross a fearful bridge.
Our engine is on the rear and is pushing us slowly up to it.
-- At the Bridge, 10 o'clock P.M. Getting permission from
Col. Coggswell, we who have wives, started afoot to reach
the car where the ladies are. After walking about two miles,
passing train after train of work cars, climbing over piles
of rails and falling in the sand, we have got here at last
at the "Devils Gate", and a fearful place it is. A slender
trestle bridge stretches from one side to the other of a
yawning abyss through which a rapid current rushes like
lightening, foaming and leaping up, then falling in showers
of spray. It seems as if ready to tear the bridge all to
pieces -- and such a place! The rocks on each side are cut
and hacked; black and gloomy they are. Frowningly they lower
upon us as if saying to the bridge builders "build your
bridge if you dare and I will fall down and crush it"
[;] in this dark night with the black sides lit up
by a bon fire on either end and the flickering lights of the
workmen hammering away down in the bowels of the bridge
seemingly holding on for dear life amid the roaring torrent!
It almost makes me shudder to look! The cars were pushed
down one by one and every one looked in silence as they were
shoved slowly across. As soon as the car was safely over, I
breathed easier and went back to our own train. In about an
hour we followed and crossed safely -- and now (12 o'clock
midnight) we are in the Valley of [The] Saints.
Ahead the glimmer of Great Salt Lake graces our vision. We
Benedicts have passed our crisis and all is calm again.
Monday, May 10th 1869
7:00 A.M. On board the vice President's car U.
P. R. R., five miles from Promontory Point,
waiting for breakfast. The darkey cook in his clean white
jacket is putting breakfast on the table and it looks
tempting. A great many trains have come up and many
passengers. We are now in sight of Salt Lake. Last night we
followed along its shores for ten miles. I rode on the
engine. Don't know how far back our soldier train is as we
left them behind. Breakfast is ready. Passed the last range
of mountains on our path until we get to the Sierras.
Promontory Point 12:30 o'clock noon -- We have just
witnessed the laying of the last rail, crowds commenced
assembling at 7 o'clock. There were several thousand
present. Ceremonies were opened with prayer by a Minister
from Massachusetts. A laurel wood tie beautifully polished
and appropriately engraved was then brought out, and by the
two highest officials of each road present was placed in
position. A rail was then taken by workmen and put in its
place, a spike of solid gold was then produced with a silver
hammer. The officers of the "U.P." advanced from the East
and those of the "C.P." from the West. A telegraph wire was
attached to the spike; at a given signal one-two-three
strokes or taps were made with the silver hammer. The
telegraph wires were so arranged that the taps were flashed
to all parts of the United States so that eager thousands in
N. Y., Chicago, San Francisco, Boston, Philadelphia and
other large cities at that moment knew the rail was laid and
the Pacific Road complete! Truly it is worth a trip from New
Hampshire to see this alone. Two beautifully decorated
engines, one of each road advanced till their guards
touched; the engineers climb out and broke a bottle of
champagne across the space and shook hands. Nattie and
myself were permitted to give a stroke upon the hammer. I
drove my spike with my sword hilt. The engines then backed
about two rods. Our regiment marched up, stood at parade
rest while our pictures were being
taken.
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U.S. 21st Infantry Band
in front of 119 May 10, 1869 by Alfred
Hart
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Then the band played. Many distinguished men and were
present. We then adjourned and proceeded to the C.P.
officers car where we all treated to lunch and champagne.
Thence all hands repaired to the U.P. car and got a splendid
dinner. Champagne flowed like water. Much nonsense was got
off but we had a jolly day. Half a dozen telegraph officers
are crowded with applicants. Twenty or thirty prominent
newspapers have reporters here. Everybody who is sober
enough is scribbling; some are cheering, some laughing and
throwing up their hats and it is a festive scene. The
speeches are good and our band played pretty well until they
had taken too much ardent spirit. Thus is the greatest
undertaking of the 19th century accomplished. All honors to
the resolute men who have "put it through". 6 o'clock P.M.
The crowd has dispersed. The officials have gone back, each
to his own road and we are about to start. Our cars are not
so good as those we left. No more sleeping cars now. The men
[soldiers] are hustled into box freight cars and we
got some new passenger coaches just brought from Springfield
Mass. Ours is the first train over the road and we think it
something to brag of. Overland to the Pacific Ocean. What
would have been thought of the men who dared to predict it
ten years ago! Promontory is 1084 miles from Omaha and 690
from Sacramento. Thus the Unions have built 394 miles more
of road than the Centrals. Congress has established that the
junction shall be a Ogden, fifty miles East of here which
will cause C.P. to purchase the fifty miles of the U.P. --
12:00 midnight. We are just off after 8 hours delay. --
Monument 21 miles from Promontory, I can't sleep for these
cars shake about. This is the North End of Salt Lake They
tell us this is the last vestige of vegetation for five
hundred miles.
Tuesday, May 11th, 1869
P.M. At Humboldt Wells, Nevada Territory, 165 miles from
Promontory. We are making excellent time. There is a
perceptible difference in the running time from that of the
U.P. We go faster. Our car is very fair day cars. They are
splendid, made after the latest pattern in Springfield,
Mass. We have patent brakes, ventilation etc. They look
fresh and clean, very much like the cars on the Boston and
Maine running to Portland. Our friend who went to Salt Lake
joined us yesterday. We came through several historic (to
be) places last night such as "Red Dome Pass,"
"Terrace Point", "Desert Passage Creek", "Loans" etc.
We are getting into sage brush and sand. What an oasis is
the Salt Lake Valley on this line. Leaving barren rocks and
sterile soil, the traveler emerges into a land flowing with
milk and honey, fertile soil, cultivated farms,
[and] good houses but he flies across this valley
rapidly, like lightening, and comes out again upon a still
more barren wood and worthless soil. Upon this we are now
and, as if anxious to get over it quick, our speed is
increasing. We run thirty miles an hour with very few stops.
The Centrals carry their water along with them in immense
tanks for it is very difficult to obtain water here. The
grading of this road is perfect; for the last 80 miles we
have run as smooth as a floor. The road was built by "John
Chinaman", hundreds of whom are seen along the route. They
attract much attention with their odd dress and cues
dangling behind. They look strange to us. But they are
faithful workmen and said to be infinitely superior to the
Irish laborers. It is growing hot and dusty; we are in the
alkali and the dust sifts and blows. There is nothing grown,
nothing but miserable sage brush; not much sleep for us
tonight.
Wednesday, May 12th, 1869
Passed a night of intense misery and discomfort. The
dust was stifling. There was very little air and the alkali
came into the car in clouds filling eyes, nose, mouth and
ears. With all this we ran like lightening at a frightful
speed. Made 200 miles last night. Some times our car, it
being the rear one, would snap as if it was to whip. Several
of the officers became alarmed at our speed. On, On, we
rushed with not a stop. We are 324 [miles from]
Sacramento. Oh this alkali and sage brush! We are sick and
tired of it; beats anything on the U.P. Yet "John" is
encamped along the road right in the sun, apparently
contented and happy. The men (soldiers) amuse themselves
calling each other "John Knapsack" "John Haversack" "John
Canteen" etc. Got a very good breakfast here; washed a
little of the alkali from my hair. Stopped merely an hour.
On again. Afar one glimpse of running water and green grass.
All remark how well this road is built. Certainly fifty per
cent better than the U.P. I should as soon live in Sahara as
this desert. Even the sage grass is stunted and the sand
blows round in heaps like ashes. No use trying to take notes
until we stop again. The railroad men are pretty fast
fellows. Our conductor is half drunk but we have a trusty
engineer. We pay no attention to regular stations. Passed
Elk last night, the most prominent station just now on the
road as it is where passengers stop for White Pine, the
celebrated mining district where so much silver is found. We
whirled by without stopping.
Wadsworth 180 miles from Sacramento -- The "C.P.'s don't
mean to keep us long on their road. They halt for nothing
and seem impatient if we wish to stop for coffee. Somewhat
different from the "U.P." This is a smart business place. We
all made for the little river that runs along here and tried
to get off some the sticky dust but it burns and stings. Got
an excellent dinner, including fresh brook mountain trout.
Stores here are filled with goods and there was at least a
dozen of Wells Fargos Stages, most of them waiting for
passengers to Virginia City, Capitol of Nevada. We met here
the Sacramento Express which left there early this morning.
They brought late papers -- first we have seen -- and fruit
such delicious fruit, strawberries, oranges etc. All hands
invested a little specie. Green backs no more (?) they are
"no go" here. Everything is gold and silver. It sounds novel
and pleasant to hear the rattle of coin once more, but tis
anything but pleasant to we who get our pay in currency, for
we have to change every dollar at a discount of 25 per cent.
Every fellow bought a little silver to jingle in his
pockets. A large and busy crowd was at the station. They are
mostly miners and men who are after their fortunes. They are
an eager grasping, looking set. We bid adieu here to the
alkali and sand for many mile. I am informed we follow the
Truckee river.
7:30 P.M. At Truckee base of the Sierra Nevadas. -- We have
struck California and the air is glorious. From Truckee here
[for] a distance of 70 miles we had a delightful run
nearly all the way in sight of the river of along the base
of a mountain; the air was cool, no dust, no heat. Oh it was
delightful change from the terrible ride of 24 hours
preceding. Now we ride outside on top with great comfort.
Supper here and it certainly was good, fresh salmon and
trout, beef steak, juicy and tender meat, broiled ham and
baked potatoes, vegetables and fine cigars to smoke. We
learn with regret that we have to go over the mountains
tonight and thereby miss the finest scenery along the route.
At any rate we can get a moon light view. At 8 o'clock we
begin to ascend with two powerful engines -- 20 minutes --
We are now under the snow sheds. Just before entering I
caught sight of Donner Lake quietly sleeping in the lap of
the Highlands. The towering cliffs and peaks encircled about
seeming like giant sentinels placed there by [the]
Almighty to protect His Exquisite Creation against the ruder
elements. The moon shining down placidly upon this beautiful
lake with not a ripple on its silvery surface and so far,
far below us made a wonderfully picturesque scene. Most of
my traveling companions too timid to enjoy anything but
sleep were soundly not sleeping but snoring. Those snow
sheds are great pieces of engineering. It was only through
this invention that the company could get over those
mountains at all, for during the winter the road is blocked
with snow -- mile after mile, after mile we rattle along
under this wooden tunnel, the snow still six feet over our
heads and dropping though in little melted showers. The
timbers of which it is composed are three feet in diameter
and extend eight or ten feet above the cars to give ample
room for the smoke stacks. The roof is riveted, bolted and
bound to resist the immense pressure of a large body of snow
and the work seems as strong as granite. Lights and stations
are scattered along in this tunnel, as it were, for they
extend 30 miles! Occasionally there is a break where the
snow does not drift. We go up -- up past two or three
stations. Swiftly through these mountain wilds we whirl all
comfortable in our warm cars. The labor and expense expended
upon these sheds is something incredible! We pass many
cascades and mountain torrents which swollen by the melting
snows come running down and fall splashing thousands feet
beneath. In about three hours we pass the highest point
which is 7000 feet above the sea and shutting off steam,
commence over. Not very gradual descents. We skim precipices
so dizzy many would not dare to look and get down nearly
6800 feet in a hundred miles Down, down, down we go, with
all our brakes set and every train hand at his post. In the
night I can catch a glimpse of the sublime panorama now and
then as the moon struggles out of her cloudy
surroundings.
Thursday, May 13th, 1869
At Rocklin 7 A.M. We have been here two or three hours.
This is a little one horse place but the trees are so green,
the flowers so fresh, the air so invigorating we feel like
shouting for joy. Got a poor breakfast but nobody seemed to
mind it since we are so soon to be in San Francisco which we
are all impatient to reach now. We came in from a little
hunt fairly loaded down with flowers. The band played to
enliven our spirits and all feel good. We have left the
desert and come into a little paradise. California, we
welcome you with your vine clad hills had delicious climate.
We are only one hour from Sacramento.
11 A.M. Sacramento. Here we are in El Dorado a perfect
little bower of loveliness. Again we are in the civilized
world having spanned the Continent. We are almost in sight
of the Pacific Ocean. There are beautiful modern houses
surrounded with fine gardens, orchards and all kinds of
trees loaded with tropical fruits, children playing on the
green, fountains spouting up sparkling water, smooth
turnpikes on which elegant turn carts are passing and
repassing; flowers of every name, color and nature springing
spontaneously from the willing earth in lavish profusion;
ornamental shade trees; the air balmy as June and withal the
sun shining gladly and brightly. Moving on we enter the town
slowly, the scenes repeating themselves at every rod. Then
we pass machine shops, factories, street cars. We see stores
displaying rich stocks of goods. We pass crowds of well
dressed men and women. We hear the busy hum of a large city.
These bow to us; ladies wave their handkerchiefs, and all in
enthusiasm. The soldiers have nearly all climbed up to the
top of their cars to look on. They seem very much pleased.
In fact all our spirits rise. We sing Hail Columbia and
other national airs and there is general rejoicing although
no one says he would have missed our trip over for a
thousand dollars. It has been more like a grand picnic
excursion than any thing else. Sacramento has 30,000
inhabitants, is the capitol of Cal. and a very thriving
city. We find our boat read to take us along down to San
Francisco and we go aboard.
END
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