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Explorations in Lower California. [Harper's new monthly magazine. / Volume 37, Issue 221, October 1868]
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IIARPERS
NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
No. CCXXI.OCTOBER, 1868.VoL. XXXVII.
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA.
flY J. I~OSS flT~OWNE.
A GROUP of yellowish rocks, jutting out of To the southward and eastward nothing inter-
the sea at the end of a narrow promontory, venes to hreak the force of those terrific gales
marks the southern limit of Lower California. which in September and October blow from
On the inner side, toward the Gulf, is the harbor that quarter; and vessels, unable to slip their
of Cape St. Lucas. The anchorage is deep and anchors in time, have been driven ashore. Ex-
well protected from the northwesterly winds. cept in one aspect the harbor may he consid
CAPE ST. LUCAS.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by Harper and Brothers, in the Clerks Office of the
District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York.
VOL. XXXVJJ.No. 221.O o
View page 578
578 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
ered an open roadstead, though in the opinion
of intelligent engineers it might he improved by
means of a breakwater, the expense of which,
however, would be considerable.
Great difficolty seems to have been expe-
rienced by navigators in determining with ac-
curacy the longitude of Cape St. Lucas. The
early voyagers had no means of testing the ac-
curacy of their reckoning; and those of later
date have been subject to many difficulties in
preserving the true time, owing to the great
distance from the point of departure, and the
various influences by which their chronometers
have been affected. On the best chart now in
usethat of Sir Edward Belcherthe longitude
of the Cape is laid down about fourteen miles
too far to the west~vard. This fact has been
determined by average observations for a series
of years by the officers of the Pacific Mail Steam-
ship Company. Before chronometers came into
use discrepancies of several hundred miles were
not uncommon; and even in later years we find
some remarkable differences.*
There is no doubt this point or terminus of
the Peninsula would be a valuable acquisition
to the United States. Situated on the highxvay
from San Francisco to Panama, and to all the
Pacific ports of Mexico, it is easy of access, af-
fords good anchorage for vessels of the largest
capacity, and possesses every advantage of po-
sition and climate that could be desired in a
l)lace of resort for supplies. A ddp6t estab-
lished here, with a dock for temporary repairs,
and a light-house on the highest point of rocks,
would be a great convenience to commerce. The
country, it is true, can not be depended upon for
any thing more than fresh beef and indifferent
water; but the advantages of the location for a
ddp6t, where coals and other necessary supplies
for steamships could be kept, are not easily over-
estimated.
The aspect of the country back of the harbor
is not so forbidding. as that of other parts of the
coast, owing to a dense growth of bushes and
cactus, which conveys some idea of verdure.
A valley extends several miles inland, the soil
of which is sandy and much cut up with sinks
and arroyas. This is covered with patches of
chaparral and weeds, variegated with fantastic
bunches of cactus. At a distance it presents the
appearance of a luxuriant pasture; but a nearer
approach proves it to be as barren as the rest
of the country. Wherever the inhabitants take
the trouble to dig wells and irrigate the land, it
is productive. Oranges, grapes, and almost all
kinds of fruit and vegetables grow here with
wonderful luxuriance; but every thing produced
by the earth, except its natural crop of chapar-
ral and cactus, requires laborious irrigation.
The native Californians are too indolent for
any kind of hard work, and there are no signs
of cultivation near the Cape except in a small
garden belonging to Captain Ritchie, the only
foreign resident of the place. Here the experi-
ment has resulted satisfactorily, so far, at least,
as to show the capabilities of the soil. With a
climate so warm and salubrious, water is the
only desideratum.
As a range for cattle, the country adjacent
to the Cape meets all its present requirements.
Several hundred head of stock run at large here
winter and summer. The mesquit bean, fruit
of the cactus, and green bushes keep them in
good condition. Owing to the healthful nature
of their food, and the advantage of an ample
range, their flesh is tender and delicate. It is
considered by sea-captains a great luxury to get
a supply of beef from the Cape. The sailors,
especially, are apt to bestow high praise upon it
after a long voyage.
Such, in brief, are the general features of the
southern limit of a remote peninsular territory,
which possesses, perhaps, a higher degree of
historic interest, and is more intimately associ
ated with the daring enterprises of the old Span-
ish navigators and the bold exploits of the Brit-
ish buccaneers, than anypart of the Pacific coast,
from Cape Horn to Cape Mendocino. r1~0 this
wild region the renowned Cortdz, after the sub-
jugation of Montezuma in 1522, directed his at-
tention. Among the spoils of conquest were
pearls of wonderfid beauty and value, and em-
eralds, turquoises, garnets, and rich specimens
of gold, silver, and copper, which the Aztecs
said came from the coast of the Pacific, and re-
gions adjacent thereto, far to the west and north-
west of the capital. In that day the geograph-
ical positions and limits of remote provinces
were very indefinite: but Cort~z was determ-
ined to find the source of these treasures; and
in 1532 he dispatched his first expedition in
search of the land called Giguatan, the name
given to the northwest province by the king
of Michoacan and his caciques.*
* Dr. Alexander S. Taylor, of SantaBarbara, who has
probably devoted more time and atteutton to the inns-
ty records of Spanish adventure on the Pacific coast
than any man living, has kindly furnished me with
the following interesting data, derived in part from
original manuscripts, and in part from printed narra-
tives written in Spanish:
The king of Michoacan and the caciques of his
province of Coitma called this country of treasures
Cigueten, a name adopted by the conquerors until
they first discovered the shores of the Gulf below
270, when it generally went by the name of Santiaga,
from a place on the coast of Tehuantepec, whence
Cortiz dispatched his first expedition of 1532. After
that date it was called Sante Cruz, from a bay in
which Ximenes, the first European who was certain-
ly known to have landed on the Peninsula, anchored
his vessel. It also obtained the name of Isles de PerSia,
from the accounts and specimens brought to Cortiz
by the companions of Xtmeues; also the Is Ama-
ze a, from a fable current in Mexico of a nation of
female warriors in these parts; and at a later date the
Bay or Gulf of Bellenes or Whales. After the visit of
Cortiz in 1535 it first acquired the name of tJetiferaie,
or the Isles di Cel~feraie. On the death of Cortiz it oft-
en went by the name of Isles (ezelines, from the Em-
* Of the early charts the most reliable is that of Abb6
Chapp~. In a recent chart, prepared with great care
by Captain C. M. Scammon, of the United States Rev-
enue Service, for the Lower California Company, the
true bearings of Cape St. Lucas and other important
points are for the first time accurately established.
View page 579
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 579
The information obtaIned hy Cortdz relative
to the countries visited by Xim enes encouraged
him to send forth another expedition, in 1532,
to find the Island of California, which it was
ulleged lay on the right hand of the Indies,
was full of gold and precious stones.
The results of this voyage, though no discovery
of gold and precious stones was made, induced
the indefatigable explorer to fit out a third ex-
pedition in 1533; hut not satisfied with the reports
of his suhordinates, he set forth himself in 1535
to see the land in person. An entertaining ac-
count of nll these voyages and explorations is
given by the good old Father Vanegas, the his-
torian of the Jesuits. It would be beyond the
limits of a Magazine article even to glance at the
wonderful history of privation, suffering, hero
tsm, nnd ecclesiastical zeal that followed the
discoveries made by the great Spanish adven-
turer. A description of the country will con-
vey the best idea of the difficulties encountered
hy the early explorers and the Jesuit raissiona-
ries, whose labors have made it a classic land.
In December, 1866, the writer, acting under
an arrangement previously made with a com-
pany of wealthy capitalists in New York, who
had obtained a grant of lands and mining priv-
ileges from the Mexican Government, embrac-
ing more than twothirds of the Peninsula,
with its islands, bays, and inlets, fitted out an
expedition to explore the country from Cape
St. Lucas to San Diego. A considerable
amount of American capital was invested in it,
and there was no accurate geological knowledge
of its resources beyond the experience of some
German miners at a few points in the neighbor-
hood of San Antonio. No scientific explora-
tion had ever been made of the vast stretch of
peror Charles V. or from Charles II. of Spata, under
which name it is set down in many old maps and
charts; even as late as that of Anson in 1140. After
the Jesuit settlement of 1690 the name of california
became more confirmed, until the puhiteation of the
Jesuit histories in 1TOO, when it became permanently
reconized in his tory, navigation, and geography.
From the date of the settlements of San Die~o and
Monterey in lITO, the lower portions of the country
began to be styled california Pcninsuteres, california
Antigsee or Vieje, and Baja Gabferaie; and the country
beyond the junction of the Gila and Colorado and its
parallel to the ocean as Naece c~aqferaie, celifornie
Nerte, and A tie califernia. It was not until the
American conquest of 1846 that the name of the Pen-
insula was confirmed in commerce as Lower celLfer-
aic, and the northern country as Upper califernia, by
which terms they are now generally known. Les des
Cetifernins, or Las Cet(feruias, has frequently been ap-
plied to them by the Spaniards and Mexicans since
1800; and they now sometimes use the term La Cbti-
ferssie and Le Cbbftrrs?iassa, the country appertaining
to the things of the Californians. Of the origin of the
name little is known. The question has ~iven rise to
many conjectures. By some it is attributed to Indian
sources, by others the derivation is traced to the
Spanish word cettiente, or haatthe hot country, or
the country of heat. Mr.E.E. Hale, of Boston, brin~s
excellent proof of the derivation of the name. He
traces it to an old crusade romance, much read in the
rime of Columbus and Cortiz, in which a Queen of
the Amazons living in the Greek-Syrian countries is
called California for a memoir of which see Mr.
Hales papers, pablished in 186364.
country lying between La Paz and San Diego.
Believing that the kno~vledge likely to result
from an expedition properly organized and fit-
ted out would be of great benefit to our Gov-
ernment, in view of the probable acquisition
of the territory at no remote l)eriod, I employ-
ed, after consultation with Professor J. D.
Whitney, then a resident of San Francisco, Mr.
William M. Gabb, of the State Geological Sur-
vey, to take charge of the scientific branch of
the expedition. Dr. F. Von Ldhr, a graduate
of the School of Mines of Freiberg, was engaged
as Topographer, Mining Engineer, and Assay-
er. The rest of the party consisted of a cook,
and the necessary guides, vaqueros, and subor-
dinates, to be hired on our arrival in the coun-
try.
Our outfit was of the most compact and prim.-
itive kind viz., a Spanish saddle and two
pails of blankets each; a revolver; a knap-
sack with a change of clothing; a few con-
veniences for sketching and writing; a sextant,
compass, blow-pipe, and other necessary in-
struments for taking observations and making
assays; and such miscellaneous articles of light
weight for various emergencies as could not be
obtained in the country. Our stock of l)lOvi
sions comprised only the ordinary necessaries
of life flour, sugar, coffee, bacon, salt, and
pepper.
On the 28th day of December, accompanied
by Mr. Brooks, Superintendent of the Triunfo
Mines, we took our departure from San Fran-
cisco in the Goatineatol, a screw steamer bel~g
aaoazssoa cAne sien CR. VON acne.
View page 580
580 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
ing to the Holliday
line. Nothing of spe-
cial interest occurred
during the passage
to Cape St. Lucas.
The distance is 1175
miles, and is usually
made by the Pacific
Mail steamers in four
days and a half. Our
passage was not con-
sidered bad, as the
vessel was heavily
freighted, and the
propeller out of or-
der.
A strange fact con-
nected with our first
experience of a
steamer on the Mex-
ican line was that
over two hundred
tons of the freight consisted of corn and pota-
toes. It seemed like carrying coals to New-
castle; hut was characteristic of the Mexican
people. With some of the finest corn and po-
tato-growing country in the world, the vaga-
hond races of Sinaloa, Sonora, and Lower Cali-
fornia have to depend mainly on San Francisco
for their supplies of vegetables.
On rounding the Point of Rocks we cast anch-
or about half a mile inside the harbor, soon after
which our captain descried several boats com-
ing out from the shore, in one of which some
of the officers recognized the famous Colonel
iDArtois.5 Some anxiety was manifested as
to the purpose of this piratical gentleman. It
was well known that he had some project in
view for the capture of the Uoatiaental. The
Liberals were greatly incensed at the conduct
of the Holliday Company in carrying arms to
the Imperial forces during the past year; and it
was with great difficulty one of the Companys
vessels had escaped from Mazatlan, on the oc-
casiou of the last voyage. Nothing saved her
hut the presence of an American man-of-war
and the firmness of her commander, Captain
Dell. Guards were stationed at the gangways
of the Uoatinenta4 and express orders given to
prevent any person from boarding; notwith-
standing which, in the confusion of the mo-
ment, DArtois, Captain Ritchie, and the mail-
rider managed to get on board. DArtois want-
ed to take passage to Mazatlan for himself and
other peaceable citizens ; but our captain
was not to be prevailed upon, and the peaceful
colonel went ashore much disgusted.
As soon as the way was clear we had our
blankets, saddles, and provisions put in one of
Intelligence was received at San Francisco, sever-
al months after, that DArtois, having heen dismissed
from the Liberal service by General Corona, had con-
cocted a plan of revolutionizin~ the Peninsula, and re-
instating the late Governor Navarette. The attempt
was frustrated by Pedrin, the Governor. IDArtois
wa~ captured, and is now in prison under sentence
of death.
the ships boats, and went ashore. Although
the weather was calm, the surf broke heavily
on the beach, and it was not without difficulty
that we effected a safe landing.
Captain Ritchie, an old Englishman, lives
here; he is the only European settler on the
Cape. I can not but make passing mention of
him, since he is one of the institutions of the
country. Forty years ago he was a cabin-boy
in a vessel belonging to his uncle. Becoming
fascinated with the charms of a dark sefiorita
at San Josd, he ran away, and secreted himself
till the ship sailed. Ever since he has lived at
or near the Cape. His history, though not re-
markable for stirring adventure, is full of inter-
est. He has been the host of all the distin-
guished navigators who have visited the coast
during the past forty years. Smuggling, stock-
raising, fishing, farming, and trading have been
among his varied occupations. He now has a
family of half-breeds around him, none of
whom speak his native language. He has
made and lost a dozen fortunes, chiefly by sell-
ing and drinking whisky. No man is better
known on the Pacific coast than Old Hitchie.
He has suffered martyrdom at the hands of the
Mexicans. They have robbed him, taxed him,
imprisoned him, threatened to kill him, but all
to no purpose; and they now regard him as an
inevitable citizen of the country. At one time
they confiscated his property, and carried him
over to Mazatlan, where they cast him into
prison ; but he survived it all. An English
man-of-war got him out of the difficulty, and
threatened to bombard the city if ever they mal-
treated him again. The various injuries in-
flicted upon him would have destroyed any oth-
er man on earth. It will be a marvel if he
ever dies.
Captain Ritchies house at Cape St. Lucas is
the home of adventurers from all parts of the
world. Admirals, commodores, captains, and
mates inhabit it; pirates and freebooters take
refuge in it; miners, traders, and cattledrovers
CAPTAIN alTenias nousa.
View page 581
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 581
make it their home. In short, the latch-
string is never drawn in. His hospitality is
proverbial. All who have money pay if they
choose; those who have none he feeds and
makes drunk from sheer love of fellowship and
natural generosity of heart. No traveler, weary
r way-worn, ever went away from his door
without rest and sustenance.
Since the opening of the San Antonio and
Triunfo mines Captain Ritchie has done a good
business in packing freight and passengers to
the mines. Whalers also find it convenient to
call at this rendezvous for fresh beef, of which
be always keeps a good supply.
On the occasion of our arrival the DArtois
party bad possession of the premises. They
were a piratical looking set of fellows, number-
ing some fourteen, chiefly Americans and Irish.
DArtois himself, a handsome young man of
pleasing address, was formerly an officer in the
United States Army. I had known him in
Oregon, where he was stationed in 1857. He
now claimed to hold a commission from Corona,
hut the fact has been questioned.
The rest of the party were exceedingly rough
and boisterous. They bad borrowed or stolen
a small steamer from the Spanish Consul at
Mazatlan, and come across the Gulf a few days
previous to our arrival, to be on hand for the
Gontinentel. Two months before they had cap-
tured the brig Busco, a vessel sailing under the
Imperial flag, and confiscated what money and
property they could find. The case was tried
soon after in one of the courts at San Francis-
co. Considerable doubt was thrown upon the
Corona commission. They were very violent
in their denunciations of Captain Shirley of the
Sewanee, who had just taken their vessel away,
sent it back to Mazatlan, and put them ashore,
promising to call for them at his earliest con-
venience. Captain Ritchie, in order to keep
them quiet, made them drunk, and in doing so
became somewhat inspired himself, so that
when we reached the house there were few so-
ber men any where visible. A party of pirates
armed with revolvers, angry and intoxicated,
and thirsting for somebodys blood, is not at-
tractive in a social point of view. Fortunately
for me every pirate in the gang knew me inti-
mately, or claimed to know me, which was the
same thing then. They had, according to
their own account, traveled with me in divers
parts of the world. One was a Virginia City
friend, another an Oregon friend, another a
San Francisco friend, another an Oakland
friendall friends and fellow-travelers who had
roughed it with me, and were now engaged in
a little private enterprise of a political charac-
ter. Of course I knew them all. Any man
~vould know a blood-thirsty gang of pirates
under the circumstances, and even consider
them his most intimate personal friends.
There being a reasonable chance of several
explorers being shot if we remained much lon-
ger, as the filibustering gentlemen were getting
more reckless with their fire-arms the more
OLD SSiIEDD5.
whisky they drank, we were exceedingly anx-
ious to get off on our journey without delay.
Captain Ritchies pack-mules were out on a
ranch, and could not be brought in till late in
the afternoon. It was deemed advisable, there-
fore, to leave Cornelius Ironmonger, our cook
who had already been shot several times,
stabbed, beaten on the head, bitten by rattle-
snakes, and stung by scorpionsto take charge
of our baggage and provisions, with instructions
to follow us as soon as Captain Ritchies mules
came in. A Mexican raackero, named An-
toine, who lives near the beach, hired us some
horses and mules, and at two r.~., after a lit-
tle ground and lofty tumbling, we took our de-
parture from Cape St. Lucas.
For the first eight miles the country is rocky
and barren, with a heavy growth of cactus and
small trees, principally gum and mesquit. The
trail winds almost continuously over desert
patches of loose sediment, interspersed with
boulders of granite. Deep arroyas are washed
out by the rains, which at times sweep the
country, carrying away the soiL
Over the rugged points of rock that jut out
into the sea we toiled for several hours, when
we reached a small valley, through which
courses an inconsiderable stream. All around
us the country was wild and unattractive, with
dry, naked rocks and sand gleaming in the sun.
A few stunted willows grow on the waters
edge, presenting the only exception to the gen-
eral sterility of the scene. Two or three Mexi-
can huts, around which lay the dead carcasses
of cattle, constituted the only visible sign of
civilization.
We watered our animals, and after a brief
rest proceeded on our journey. Sometimes the
trail took us along the beach, where traveling is
View page 582
582 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
very tedious, owing to the heavy sands. For~
miles at a stretch the horses sank over their fet-
locks. We crossed several points of land over
which the trail winds so rugged and precipitous
that it required some nerve to sit coolly in the
saddle. The sea dashed against the rocks
hundreds of feet helow with a fearful roar, and
thousands of gulls screamed around our heads,
as if enraged at us for disturhing their solitude.
Back from these headlands or points we sonic-
times turned inland, crossing over some high
passes, till at last we descried in a distant hend
of the shore the green palm-trees of San J05~
del Caho.
The mission of San Jos6 was estahlished in
1730 hy Father Nicholas Tamaral, and the site
selected, according to Vanegas, was ahout five
leagues from the sea. This would make it
ahout the locality of Santa Anita. It was after-
ward moved nearer to the sea. The old mis-
sion huilding stands on a slight eminence ahout
two miles from the heach, in a most heautiful
part of the valley, and forms the Acropolis
around which centres the pleasant little town
of San Jos~. A stream of pure water courses
through groves of citrons and oranges on the
lower slope of the hill, and luxuriant palms
hang with tropical effect over the washing-
places along the azequla, where the dusky dam-
sels of the town assemhle to work and gossip.
The houses are huilt in the Mexican style
low, and with courts and harred windows. Some
hrick stores indicate the presence of foreigners.
Of late years husiness has heen rather stagnant,
though there is generally a little doing in the
sugar trade. A sugar factory of very lirimitive
construction was at work hailing out panoche as
we passed into the town.
We were kindly received hy Mr. Gillespie,
United States Vice-Consul, who adds to his of-
ficial (lignity the honorahle offices of postmaster,
storekeeper, and agent for Wells, Fargo, and Co.
At the capacious store of our friend Gillespie
we slept amidst pyramids of cheese and panoche.
The population of San Josd is ahout six or
seven hundred, nearly all native Californians.
Not more than a dozen foreigners live in the
place. The native citizens are lazy and harm-
less, to suit the climate, devoting themselves
chiefly to sleeping and gamhling.
The valley of San Jos~ emhraces the only
considerahle tract of land on the peninsula sus-
ceptihle of cultivation. It is watered hy
small stream, which in dry seasons disappears
in places, and in wet hecomes a raging torrent,
carrying gardens, houses, and crops into the
sea. The extent of the valley is two or three
miles in width hy twenty or thirty in length.
For the most part it consists of harren stretches
of sand; hut at intervals, hy means of irrigation,
it is susceptihlc of profitahle cultivation. Sugar-
cane is the chief product. This grows luxuri-
antly wherever it can he irrigated, and some
very flourishing little plantations lie along the
stream for several miles ahove the Mission.
Figs, oranges, citrons, grapes, pomegranates,
etc., grow almost spontaneously. Few coun-
tries produce hetter fruit than this. The great
pity is, that, with such a genial climate, there is
so little water and so little land of any value.
The ~vine of Lower California is excellent.
It is of a lightish red, very delicate in flavor, hut
of good hody. In many respects it resemhles
the wines of Southern Italy. The vineyards
are few and scattering, and hut little wine is
made any where in the country.
A much larger quantity of land could he ad-
vantageously cultivated in the San J05~ Valley
than is worked at present. The native popula-
tion have no energy, and dislike the intrusion
of foreigners. They seem to care for nothing
hut the simple means of suhsistence. Specula-
tors, who have come down from San Francisco
with a view of purchasing sugar and cotton
estates for a mere trifle, have found themselves
much mistaken in the people. Avarice is a
sign of civilization. These primitive Califor-
nians do many things from hatred and malice,
hut seldom do any thing for money. Sometimes
they get in deht, owing to their improvident
ON THE TRAIL.
View page 583
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 583
habits, and arc forced to sell their little places;
but a patch of sugar or cotton land, under ordi-
nary circumstances, could not be bought here
for ten times its actual value.
The only practical way of acquiring real estate
in Lower California is to settle among the people
and lend them money at usurious interest, se-
cured by mortgage. They are never ahie to pay
it back; and their property falls a sacrifice to
their indolence or want of forethought. On the
other hand, foreigners who have secured property
in this way have never succeeded in making any
thing by it. In the few cases that exist they
would be very glad to get back their money.
Among a people so inert and so unprincipled no
one class can be prosperous in exception of the
general rule. Prosperity in such cases is sure
to engender jealousy, which, if not open, is
none the less prejudicial to strangers.
The mode of tilling the land adopted by the
native Californians is rude and simple. By
means of a small, forked tree, cut into some-
thing of a plow shape, with an iron point, they
scratch up the earth, and let the crop grow of
its own accord, giving it now and then a little
water. The azequias are scraped in the sand,
and are constantly changed to suit the purposes
of irrigation. Yet the sugar-cane looks luxuri-
ant, and very prolific crops can be raised. Cot-
ton can doubtless be grown in this valley. A
few experiments made by foreigners demonstrate
this fact. The cotton-tree, so called, flourishes
in many localities of the Peninsula, producing
cotton of a very fine fibre. No use, that I am
aware of, has ever been made of it. The fenc-
ing of the sugar-fields consists of poles in the
ground with bushes interwoven between them.
Such frail barriers afford but little protection
from the encroachments of cattle, and the gaps
require constant watching. These people, bo~v-
ever, will spend months in watching their cattle
rather than days in mending their fences.
The valley is subject to long droughts and
sudden deluges of rain. During the month of
September the temporals are apt to prevail. In-
tervals of ten or a
dozen years elapse
between the most vio-
lent and destructive
of these visitations;
but when they come
in their full force, ac-
companied by rain,
they carry off fences,
houses, crops, and
soil, leaving all in
their track a desert
of sand. The last
great temporal oc-
curred nearly half a
century ago, but its ef-
fects are still visible.
Others less destruc-
tive have occurred
since one about
eight years ago, which
did considerable damage to the crops and cov-
ered many thousand acres of the valley with a
heavy coating of sand. In the fearful hurri-
canes of October 13, 1855, September 16 and
17, 1856, and September 30, 1858, some ships
anchored at La Paz dragged their anchors and
were thrown upon the beach.
The harbor of San Josd is an open road-
stead, with good anchorage most of the year.
Its commerce consists of a small trade in pan-
oche and cheese, carried on by means of a
schooner with the port of Mazatlan. Vessels
formerly landed the goods required for the use
of the town at this place, but of late the local
government has restricted the port of entry to
La Paz. Every possible impediment to the
prosperity of the country is placed in the way
by the political chiefs, to prevent rival aspirants
from obtaining power in localities where there
is a chance for creating a revolution. Nobody
can be trusted to collect tuoney from customs
except the Governor himself, who makes use
of it to purchase adherents and maintain his
power.
In the hands of an American population
some use might be made of the San Josd Val-
ley. Sugar and cotton could be grownthe
former in much larger quantities than at pres-
ent. The latter has not yet been attempted,
except in the way of mere experiment. The
amble portions of the valley, however, would
not support a large colony ofAmericans. Wher-
ever our people go they require extensive tracts
of land to make the cultivation of the earth
profitable. It would be ~n admirable locality
for an industrious and frugal population of Chi-
nese.
Fortunately the Suwqnee came into the port
of Cape St. Lucas half an hour after we left,
and took the pirates on board; so that our
man, Ironmonger, was relieved of all appre-
hension, and enabled to start on the same even-
ing with our baggage and provisions. He reach-
ed San Josfi early on the morning after our ar-
rival. Having enjoyed the loxuries of the seen-
aATlvzs.
View page 584
584 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
ery and climate till 2 r.i~r., and completed all said, never diethey dry np and float away.
our arrangements for the trip to San Antonio, Carillo had children and grandchildren around
we proceeded on our journey, under the friendly him by scores, all of whom looked the picture
guidance of our fellow-passenger, Mr. Brooks, of health.
Superintendent of the Triunfo Mines. The next days journey was over a mesa
Some eight or ten miles from San Jos~ we country, very harren, and abounding in arroyas.
came to a curious place in the valley, with high, Occasional oaks are seen on this part of the
ahrupt banks, in which were a great number of route. Cactus and shrubbery ahound every
caves. The Californians call it The Valley where along the trail. The petaya* is the
of the Caves. Professor Gabb found ample staple product of the country. The damiana
material for scientific investigation here; but a small plant, the essence of which is said to
as we had not yet entered upon the field of our be a specific remedy for infecunditygrows in
official duties, we could not spare much time to great abundance. The siempra vivaa pretty
daily on the way. fern-like plant, peculiar for its quality of drying
Turning to the left, we crossed a rise of bill, up and coming to life againis also frequent.
and soon entered a main hranch of the valley, I might mention many other interesting trees
called Santa Anita, where dwells in patriarchal and plants, but they are so fully descrihed by
simplicity an old Mexican, by name J05~ Ca- Clavigero and others that it is unnecessary to
rillo. No prettier spot than Santa Anita exists treat of them here.
in Lower California. We were charmed with Several of the large arroyas, through which
the tropical appearance of the place. A mag- we crossed during the day, contain small, arable
nificent row of palm-trees stands in front of
Don Jos6s house, skirting the valley, which is
verdant with sugar-cane. Orange and citron
groves add to the luxuriant beauty of the scene,
with their deep green leaves and golden crop of
fruit.
The valley is quite extensive, comprising, per-
haps, a thousand acres of rich alluvial land, well
watered. All the available places for sugar plant-
ations seem to he occupied; but they might be
extended by clearing away the brush and cactus.
At the hospitable casa of the old Mexican we
stopped for the night. Our animals enjoyed
the sugar-cane and we enjoyed the je4~ed-beef
and frijoles and genial warmth of the climate.
The thermometer ranged at ab~ht 74O~ a pleas-
ant temperature for the month of January. As
a winter climate for invalids there can be ne-
thing on earth to surpass it. The natives, it is
* Vanegas speaks of the petapueye as a tree not
known in Europe, with ~Iuted branches, etc.;
without leaves, and with fruit growing on the
boughs ; and Alcede as a large tree and very sin-
gular. Humboldt says that at the foot of the
mountains of California we discover only sand, or a
stony strata, on which cylindrical cacti shoot up to ex-
traordinary heights. P~tti in his Six Years Journey-
ings between 1824 and 1829 calls it A species of tree
forty or fifty feet in height, with bark resembling that
of a prickly-pear. Lieutenant Hardy of the British
navy, who visited the Gulf in 182528, says, It is a
tree from eight to twenty feet high.Bei-tlett, Vol.
II., p. 193.
It strikes me as a misnomer to call the pcteya a
tree. Professor Engelmaun (see Emorys Notes of a
Military Reconnoissance, etc., Washington, 1848) cor-
rectly remarks, p. 158, It is called in Califomnia pile-
hype, but it appears that the Mexicans call by that
name all columnar cacti the fruiitof which is edible.
The plant, which is commonly called Cereus variebiles,
is widely different from this California giant. I pro-
pose for it the name fkrens gipenteus.
SANTA ANITA.
View page 585
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 585
patches of ground, cultivated to some extent -
by the natives. Oranges, figs, sugar-cane, and ~-~
cheese seem to he the principal products. The ~- -~ ____
people live in adobe cabins, with brush or palm ~
roofs, much in the style of the Panamenos.
This day we made about thirty miles to the
Mission and town of Santiago, passing on the w
the beautifully situated little village of Miraflores ;- /
one of the earliest of the Mission settlements.
-%-~ ~
Some of the gents de rasoa date their origin ~-~
here. The wife of Mr. Barron, firm of Bar-
ron, Forbes, and Co., of San Francisco, is a na-
tive of this place.
The surrounding lands bordering the a~roya
are comparatively fertile. Figs and oranges
flourish in abundance, and the date is one of
the favorite productions. If it were not for the
tremendous torrents of rain that sometimes vis-
it this region, followed by protracted seasons of
drought, it might become a very valuable fruit-
growing district.
Santiago occupies two sites, each on a pictur-
esque eminence. On one of these stands the
old Mission, still in a good state of preserva-
tion. The sugar crop in the valley gave prom-
ise of an abundant supply of cane. One field
was devoted to the experiment of a tobacco
plantation. A German, named Schmidt, from
the mines of San Antonio, failing to make min-
ing profitable, had undertaken to make a for- aEvoLuvIoNIsTs.
tune in the tobacco business. He gave $800
for about two acres of ground, and was prepar- on the field. Both parties ran away, but final-
ing to plant his crop. The natives enjoyed the ly by a stroke of fortune Pedrin obtained the
prospect of abundant supplies for their cigarri- mastery, and banished Navarette from the coun
tos, free of cost. try. Revolutions of this kind occur every few
Santiago is infested with a characteristic pop- months. Nobody regards them as of much
ulationhalf Mexican, half Indianlazy and consequence in a sanguinary point of view.
thriftless. Their nights they spend in gambling The industrious alone suffer by having their
their days in sleeping. It was here that the ranches plundered.
great battle took place between Navarette and A sugar-mill was at work here, from which
Pedrin a few months before our arrival. Nay- we gained some idea of the process of making
arette held the reins of government; Pedrin panoche. It is very simple. The cane is cut
was coming up from San Jos6 to take his place. into pieces, pressed between two rollers, and
The contending forces numbered several hun- the juice boiled till reduced to the necessary
dreds on each side. They fought for two days consistency. The panoche is made in moulds
and nights, leaving a result of two dead men or cups, containing about half a pound; when
NAxeno.
View page 586
586 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
dry, it is packed in square baskets made of tough
sticks, tied at the ends in the fashion of a bird-
crib. It is then transported on mule-back to
La Paz, or wherever it may be required for
shipment.
Fifteen miles beyond Santiago we came to
the ranch of Captain Smith, an American who
had lived some years at La Paz. Induced by
the mining excitement to invest in property he
had accumulated quite a fortune in real estate.
If he had sold out in time it would have been
all well, but the period of depression came, and
with it embarrassments till he lost nearly ev-
ery thing. Lots in La Paz for which he paid
thousands of dollars would not now sell for so
many hundreds. His last speculation was to
put all his resources together and purchase this
ranch, with a view of establishing a model Amer-
ican farm. The land is poor, and labor scarce
and unreliable. One of Captain Smiths proj-
ects was to introduce labor-saving machines
into the country. He sent to San Francisco
for a corn-sheller, and offered to shell corn for
the natives at one-tbird of what it now costs
them. He demonstrated, by the most convinc-
ing practical tests, how much time and labor
they were wasting, and proposed to take pay-
ment in corn at a percentage of one-third of
the present costto all of which they politely
listened, and then went on as before, leaving
Captain Smith to shell his own corn in his own
way. So far the task of establishing a model
farm on a barren piece of earth, and with pre-
carious labor, has not produced encouraging re-
sults. Captain Smith is an intelligent man
~ rites occasional letters for the Bulletinand
deserves success for his energy. That he will
come out all right somewhere, or on some of his
projects, I have no doubt; but I fear it will not
be in a model farm. His lovely wife and ac-
complished daughter were at home, and we en-
joyed a most hospitable reception. Chickens,
eggs, fresh pork, and frijoles formed but tri-
fling items in the substantial lunch provided for
us.
After a rest of two hours and much pleasant
conversation we proceeded on our journey.
Three miles beyond Captain Smiths ranch our
trail lay along the shores of the Gulf. I looked
in vain for some signs of the Mar Rqjo or Ver-
milion Sea of the old Spaniards. Near the
mouth of the Colorado the color is doubtless
derived from the red sands of that river; but
here we were delighted with the crystal clear-
ness and beautiful blue tinge of the water.
Duplot de Mofras very justly remarks, that the
color is derived from two causes: one, in the
season of rain many of the tributary streams
that empty into the Colorado have their course
through ferruginous lands; the other, the re-
flection of the magnificent colors of the sky in
the morning and evening. At other seasons,
according to the same authority, the Gulf is
of a beautiful blue, very clear, and the water
warm.
It is a singular fact connected with the his-
tory of this remarkable sea that, although it
was explored in 1539 by Francisco de Ullon,
and by Alarchen in 1542, at which time the
latter passed up the Colorado, the Peninsula
was regarded as an island until 1698 and 1701,
although proofs to the contrary bad been pub-
lished. Fathers Kino and Sedelmeyer were
the first to establish the existence of the Penin-
sula by an actual land expedition around the
head of the Gulf, thus connecting Lower Cali-
fornia with the main land, and opening a land
communication with the missions from Sinalon
and Sonora. In the course of the Boundary
Survey, authorized by Congress under the treaty
of Guadalupe Hidalgo, Mr. Bartlett, United
States Commissioner, was exceedingly anxious
to have a detailed and accurate survey made
of the Gulf. He addressed a letter to the Sec-
retary of the Interior, urging the great import-
ance of a thorough exploration of the Gulf
shores and islands to the navigation of the
Colorado, and the future commerce that might
spring from it. His letter was referred to
Colonel J. D. Graham, who estimated the area
of the Gulf at 62,000 square miles, and said
that to accomplish a survey of it in a manner
to satisfy the requirements of commerce would
occupy several years.
Lieutenant Hardy, of the British navy, who
made an exploration of the Gulf in 1828, gives
much valuable information concerning its shores
and harbors. The coast from La Paz to Loreto,
from Loreto to Mulega, and from Mulega to
the Colorado River, is a continual succession
of rocks and deserts. In this general state-
ment all the authorities from the days of Fa-
thers Ugarte, Consag, Kino, and Sedelmeyer
down to the survey of the Stone party. in 1853
54, under Mr. Denton,* fully concur.
Striking the beach-trail, three miles from
Captain Smiths, we passed a few miserable
rancherias on the range of sand-bluffs to the
left, but nothing that gave evidence of cultiva-
tion. The entire coast, as far as the eye
reaches, presents an appearance of loneliness,
partly owing to the natural sterility of the soil,
and partly to the perpetual revolutions by which
all industry is impeded. The atmospheric tints,
toward the setting of the sun, are the redeem-
ing glories of the scene. Across the Gulf,
ninety miles distant, the mountain ranges of
Sinalon were distinctly visible.
In no part of the world can the nights sur-
pass those of the Gulf region. The sky is beau-
tifully clear; the stars shine with the brilliancy
of diamonds; the air is fragrant with the deli-
ca.te odors of wild flowers; the stillness of
death reigns around the camp in these pro-
found solitudes. Tall, silver-gilt cacti stand
like giant sentinels on the mystic outlines of
the desert, and the very rocks and sands seem
clothed with a garniture of celestial light. Gaz
* At present Official Surveyor to the Peninsular
Government. The valuable maps made by Mr. Den-
ton are said to be on file in the general Land Office at
Washington.
View page 587
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 587
ing upward into the heavens, awed by the mys- travel had been in Germany, attempted to force
terious grandeur of the scene, the weary tray- his mule over a precipice of forty feet. For-
cler is too often startled by the cry of some tunately the mule had never traveled in Ger-
prowling coyotea fit emblem of hunger and many.
solitude. Such is night on the Peninsula in San Bartolo consists of some ten or a dozen
midwinter. Mexican cabins, picturesquely situated in the
Turning inland from the sea, some five or gorge of the mountains. It is watered by a
six miles beyond Captain Smiths, we entered lively little stream which dances over the rocks
a broad arroya flanked on the left by abrupt with a noise very pleasant to hear in this part
walls of rock, and on the right by a scattered of the world. Several patches of sugar-cane
growth of mesquit and cactus. A ride of eight and banana lie along the bed of the creek, pret-
miles through the windings of the arroya tily fringed with date - trees. The huts are
brought ns to a gorge in the mountains. It perched up among the cliffs, in order to be be-
was getting late as we struck the stream upon yond the reach of sudden floods. Every avail-
which San Bartolo is situated. able spot seems to be occupied. Strange form-
The night came upon us in a narrow and ations of sandstone, resembling ruined towers,
rocky cation. We could scarcely see a dozen are to be seen at the lower end of the town.
feet before ns, owing to the overshadowing We stopped for the night at the most aristo-
heights of the mountain. The footing for our cratic cabin we could find. Upon stating our
animals ranged over slippery boulders and desire to procure food for the animals, a mem-
around sudden and precipitous points; and it her of our party, who kept detailed notes, was
~vas impossible at times to know whether the astonished to see the natives pull it down from
next step would not be into some yawning the roof of the house, and made special men-
abyss. Dr. Li5hr, whose chief experience of tion of the fact Here mules and other animals
A MOZO.
View page 588
585 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
subsist by devouring the roofs of houses ! The
explanation is, that the grass is harvested in
small bunches, and thrown up ou the roofs for
safe-keeping.
We had a pleasant journey to San Antonio.
The country is better wooded. Encountered a
few oak-trees on the trail, and quite a heavy
growth of mesquit. The land in places looked
as if it might be prodtictive, but there is no wa-
ter for a distance of ten miles. People who
live in the country say wheat or maize ~vill
grow any where after a rain. The scorching
heat of the sun withers it up before maturity,
unless it can be irrigated.
We traveled down a broad arroya most of the
way to the hills of San Antonio. Crossing a
high ridge we came in sight of the town, its
whitewashed houses glistening pleasantly among
the green chaparral far below us, in a basin of
the mountains.
The town lies near an arroyn through which
courses a small stream. Descending the mount-
ain by a precipitous trail we crossed the arro-
ya, and entered the plaza. A church stands
facing the square with a detached belfry. Some
hairless dogs set up a barking as we made our
appearance, and a few half-breed natives ap-
peared at the doors of the houses to ascertain
the cause of the commotion. The whole place
bore an appearance of lethargy, though evident-
ly the arrival of our party had been expected
for some days, and there was an unusual ex-
citement. Proofs of American enterprise were
visible even to the inexperienced eyes of stran-
gers. Good brick houses, built during the
mining excitement of 186263, but now aban-
doned or at least unoccupied, were to be seen
in various parts of the town.
At the store of Sefior Moreno, a native trad-
er with whom Mr. Brooks had a friendly ac-
quaintance, we were hospitably received by the
notabilities of the town, who had congregated
to receive us with due distinction. A scien-
tific party of some repute is rather a rarity in
this region. News of our expedition had been
heralded in the San Francisco papers, and ev-
ery body expressed great pleasure at our arriv-
al. The country was considered all right now.
The next move would be its cession to the
United States. Things could not be worse than
they were, and might be better. Any change
would be a gain. Mr. Obercoat, Mr. Schmidt,
Mr. Ernst, Dr. Wiss, Mr. Hale, Mr. Denton,
and other gentlemen who had taken a great in-
terest in the development of the mines of San
Antonio, were present to greet us. I had vari-
ous letters of introduction to these gentlemen
from San Francisco, but letters were not need-
ed to gain us a most cordial welcome. Every
body took an interest in the object of our ex-
pedition foreigners especially. It was con-
sidered the only chance for the redemption of
the country. Nothing was doing now; the
mines, with few exceptions, were lying idle for
want of capital to develop them; the Govern-
ment was a miserabl2 farce; there was no sta
bility in political affairs; revolutions and coun.
ter-revolutions were the order of the day; in
short, the condition of things could not well be
worse.
So far as the common people of the country
were concerned, all they desired was peace and
good order. They took very little interest in
public affairs. As to American colonization
they knew nothing about it except what they
were told by the chief men of the territory.
Their feelings generally were unfriendly to
Americans; but that was owing principally to
misrepresentation of the objects intended by
parties interested in the grant.
There was a prevailing air of anxiety and
depression visible on the part of our Teutonic
friends very easily accounted for. The mines
had failed to remunerate the holders for their
investments. Much capital had been expend-
ed in the erection of pumping and hoisting
works; but the result had proved unsatisfac-
tory. The cost of working the ores which
were generally refractory was too great to
leave a margin of profit. Shipments to Frei-
berg, Germany, had been made with no better
results. The entire value of the ores was con-
sumed in expenses. Transportation by pack-
mules to La Paz, and freight thence to Europe,
with the various charges for storage and reduc-
tion, left nothing on ores of less value than $70
a ton; and th~ proportion of more valuable
ores was small.
Great confidence was expressed in the ulti-
mate success of all these enterprises. The San
Francisco capitalists were blamed for their par-
simony in attempting to open mines without
adequate expenditures for labor and machinery.
They had spent money enough to demonstrate
the value of their mines, and then suddenly
closed them, leaving their superintendents and
other employ6s to fight it out with their creditors.
I must confess I did not, after visiting the
mines, share in the confidence expressed by
these gentlemen as to the value of these invest-
ments. My sympathies, if I had any, were rath-
er with the capitalists of San Francisco who had
been so badly deceived. Good ores, douhtless,
had been obtained from some of the mines;
but the veins generally, so far as we could de-
tect them at all, were not well defined above
the water-mark. How it might be below we
could not tell; for nearly all the mines had
from fifty to a hundred feet of water in them.
It was the only part of the Peninsula where we
found water in abundance.
Mining is a peculiar business. It requires
great experience, care, and caution to make it
pay under the best circumstances; but sur-
rounded by all the disadvantages of a fluctu-
ating and irresponsible government, vexatious
laws, and municipal restraints, it is not possible
that it can result in any thing but loss. There
may be periods of prosperity, but, in the nature
of things, they must be transitory.
San Antonio lies at the distance of twenty-
five miles from Ventura Bay, the scene of the
View page 589
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 589
grand colonization scheme of the Lower Cali-
fornia Land and Mining Company of San Fran-
cisco. There is a gradnal ascent from the
beach of abont fifteen hnndred feet. The val-
ley is, in the most part, a desert, covered with
cactns, destitute of water, and containing a very
small proportion of amble lands.
Five miles from San Antonio, in a pleasant
little valley lying near the snmmit of the mount-
ains, lies the Triunfo range of mines. iDentons
map shows the relative positions of the San An-
tonio and Triunfo lodes. By some authorities
they are assumed to be a continuation of the
same lode, or mother vein. I have been unable
to discover any reasonable ground for this the-
ory.
A pleasant ride of five miles, over the hills
and through a winding valley bordered with a
thick growth of shrubbery, brought us to the
hacienda of the Triunfo Mining Company, the
head-quarters of our friend Mr. Brooks, who
had so kindly guided us thus far on our journey.
We were met about half a mile from the village
by Mr. Sheldon, the Secretary of the Company,
who gave us the pleasing intelligence that all
was well and the prospect encouraging.
Reports of Professor Gabb and Dr. Von L6hr,
both of whom made a thorough scientific exam-
ination of this district, embody its most charac-
teristic features. In the pamphlet published by
Don Sebastian Viosca, detailed statistics are
given of the names, locations, ownerships, and
l)roducts of the various mines named on Mr.
Dentons map. It is only necessary for me to
add that of the names mentioned by M. Viosca
only three or four are now producing ores on
any considerable scale, either for reduction or
shipment. The native population do a small
business in the reduction of the surface or asar-
gbun ores by means of arastrasas they did long
prior to the investment of American capital in
these mines.
I have no doubt the Triunfo district contains
some valuable lodes. Several of them which I
visited looked rich, especially the Mendocefia,
the Cafioa, and the _______
Mexican. The Men-
docefia belongs to
the Triunfo Coin-
pany, and has a well-
defined vein of six to
eight feet in thick-
ness; and it is a de-
monstrated fact that
the ores range from
$70 to $120 all the
way down to a depth
of four hundred feet.
The Mendocefia
and Cafion have been
well opened under
the superintendency
of Mr. Brooks, and
are now in good
working condition.
Every precaution has
heen taken to insure success. Several hundred
tons of ore have been taken out in advance of the
erection of the new mill; wood, salt, chemicals,
and all necessary supplies have been collected
and properly stored; so that, if properly man-
aged, no disappointment is probable.
The new mill contains a battery of twenty-
four stamps, sixteen revolving barrels, and a
series of capacious furnaces for chlorination.
It is an excellent and substantial piece of work,
alike creditable to the superintendent and the
engineer. I may remark that it is the only mill
on the Peninsula, except a little four-stamp mill
near San Antonio. As such it deserves a prom-
inent place in the history of American enter-
prise. When the difficulty of procuring mate-
rial, the high cost of freight from San Francisco
to La Paz, the inconvenience of transporting
heavy machinery from that point to the hacien-
da, the incompetency and uncertainty of Mex-
ican labor, and the political jealousies existing
in the country are considered, none can deny
that the originators of this enterprise deserve
great credit for their perseverance.
The situation of the hacienda is pleasant, and
convenient to the mines. This district possesses
the advantage of a fine climate, relieved from
excessive heat during the summer by its eleva-
tion. In winter the temperature is delightful.
A few days rest here, under the hospitable
roof of Mr. Brooks, passed uway with profit
and satisfaction to us all. The only trouble we
had was in procuring suitable animals for our
expedition. There was no scarcity of mules,
but the difficulty was to get any that were not
worn out by packing ores. N~rly all that
were brought to us for inspection were either
sore-backed or crippled in some way, and very
poor in flesh. For these, bad as they were, the
most exorbitant prices were asked, generally
double their market value. The ordinary price
of a good mule and apparejo is $45. I was
asked $75 and $100 for the worst mules that
could be found. The price was not so much
an object, in view of our long journey, as the
ruz TELtINFO anaa.
View page 590
590 HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
quality of the animals; and there were none of
the best kind to he had. Finally, after much
higgling with native speculators in mule-flesh,
I was indebted to Dr. Wiss, of San Antoaio,
and Mr. Brooks for the only passable mules I
could get. These were a little better than the
average, but still not quite up to the mark.
That most of them lived to get through to San
Diego, with Professor Gabbs branch of the ex-
pedition, is the best evidence of their powers of
endurance.
Having completed our arrangements as far
as practicable, I left Mr. Li5hr to make assays
of the ores takea from various mines in the
district; and, accompanied by Mr. Brooks and
Professor Gabb, ~vent on a visit to the port of
La Paz, where I wished to present my creden-
tials to the .Jefe Politico, Governor Pedrin.
A good wagon-road has been opened from
the mines down to La Paz, chiefly through the
instrumentality of Mr. Brooks, who was liberal-
ly seconded in his efforts by the Citizen Chief
Jive,, the Governor preceding Navarette. The
distance is estimated at forty-five miles; there
being two intermediate stopping - places, the
Calabaras and the Playetas, the one about six-
teen and the other twenty miles from the Tn-
unfo. At these points travelers can find good
accommodations for the night. By starting in
the afternoon, and resting at these so-called
half-way stations till morning, the trip is made
without fatigue or discomfort.
We saw on the way some very favorable indi-
cations of gold, and learned that the natives
carry on occasional placer-mining in the adja-
cent hills. Scarcity of water for mining pur-
poses is the main obstacle to any extensive
operations in the way of surface diggings.
The town of La Paz is pleasantly situated on
an arm of the bay of that name, extending up
some twenty miles from the Gulf. The popu-
lation is about eight hundred; though it is
sometimes estimated as high as twelve hun-
dred. Pichilingue, nine miles from the har-
bor of La Paz, is the principal port at which
large vessels usually anchor in order to avoid
the passage of the bar.
By decree of May 11, 1861, La Paz enjoys all
the privileges in respect to the introduction of
foreign goods accorded to other Mexican ports
on the Pacific. Under a recent decree no for-
eign goods can now be landed at any other
point of the Peninsula; in consequence of
which great inconvenience is expressed by
the people living at San Josd and Cape St.
Lucas. The ports of Mulege, Loreto, San
Josd, and San Inentia are open to the coast-
ing trade. For detailed statistics of imports
and exports I refer the reader to the little work
of Mr. Viosca, a gentleman qualified by his of-
ficial position to furnish authentic data.
Several excellent store-houses and commo-
dious residences have been built in La Paz since
1860. The government qeartel is a large and
somewhat imposing structure, standing in a
prominent position on the bro~v of the mesa.
The town may be regarded as divided into two
partsthe Upper, situated on the mesa; and
THE START.
View page 591
EXPLORATIONS IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. 591
the Lower, ranging along the beach. Its ap-
pearauce from the water is exceedingly pretty
and picturesque. The white houses, inclosed in
masses of shrubbery and palm-tree; the rugged
outlines of Cacachilla Mountains to the south-
ward ; the broad stretches of mesa, with its vari-
eties of cactus and acacia; the magnificent at-
mospheric tints cast over all by the morning and
evening sun, combine to form a scene unusual-
ly attractive to a visitor from the more northern
regions of the coast. In summer the climate is
warm, though never oppressive; in winter it is
soft, balmy, and healthful. One may bathe in
the waters of the harbor any day in the year.
I was anxious to procure some pearls at this
famous mart of the pearl-fishery; and under
the auspices of Mr. Viosca examined the stock
on hand. The best specimens taken during
the past season had beeti sent off to Europe.
What remained were of an indifferent quality,
and the prices demanded about fifty per cent.
higher than in San Francisco.
The pearl-fishery has gradually declined for
several years past; the oysters having become
scarce in the waters of the best fishing-grounds,
either in consequence of storms or other dis-
turbances. The highest yield per annum for
the past ten years has been about $20,000.
Clavigero, Duplot de Mofras, Lieutenant Hardy,
and various writers of more recent date, have
given to the world such full accounts of the
pearl-fishery that I deem it unnecessary to
enter into details on this subject. Mr. Viosca
says:
The pearl-diving season begins in May, and lasts
until about the middle of October; that is, during the
warm season, and while the sea is transparent. The
fisheries are divided into three sections, the Northern
one, Mulege; the Central one, Loreto; and that of
the South, La Paz. From Mule~e ships start for Con-
ception Bay and the Point of Santa Inez. The best
fisheries are Guadalupe, Las Hornillas, Santa Do-
mingo, Amolares, Pocitos, Maughto, and Punta Inez.
From Loreto vessels sail to the islands of Carmar,
Coronado, Monseratte, IDanzantz, Puerte Escondido,
Jslotes, San Brune, and Arroyo Honda. Those from
La Paz sail for Cabo Palmo, the last Southern fish-
ery, and go North to the plates called Las Finas,
Punta Arenas, El Medano, Boca de Ia Sabina, Zepe-
tates Ventana, El Pozo, Itosarin, Coyote, Canal fin
San Sorayn, and the islands of Serralbo, San Juan,
Nepomucan, Esperito Santo, and San Jos6.
I will only add to the accounts given by the
authorities above cited, that the importance of
this branch of industry has greatly diminished
of late years. It now maintains but a strug-
gling existence, and is not profitable to any of
the parties concerned. If it were practicable
to reach the oysters in deep water the result
might he different. Few of the places men-
tioned by Mr. Viosca are now regarded as good
fishing-groundsthe oysters migrating to oth-
er localities, or disappearing without apparent
cause.
LA PAZ.
View page 592
592 hARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.
THE CHINESE EMBASSY TO THE FOREIGN POWERS.
THE great wall of China, erected to guard
the Middle Kingdom against invasions of
hostile Tartars, is fast falling to ruins. Though
maintained for many centuries, and offering a
strong harrier to the northern warriors, it was
ineffectual to stay their advance into rich and
populous Cathay. Since the dynasty estah-
lished hy Geughis Khan ascended the throne
of China the great wall has heen left unwatched
and uncared for. Decays effacing fingers have
heen actively at work, and at this day the trav-
eler from Peking to the northern frontier of the
empire is directed to a line of crumhling ma-
sonry and falling towers that marks the site of
one of the most stupendous achievements of a
past age.
The destruction of this harrier of hrick and
stone is typical of the fate of that social and
political wall that so long encircled the most
populous nation of the glohe. More than three
hundred millions of people, from generation to
generation, held aloof from the outer world, and
cherished the helief that the greater their secin
sion the greater would he their national and in-
dividual prosperity. In their opinion China
contained all of art, science, literature, and
social economy that was deserving human at-
tention; their capital was the seat of all earth-
ly government, and the doctrines taught hy
their sages were all that man required for his
guidance here or his happiness hereafter. Be-
yond the horders of the empire none cared to
look, as there was naught worthy of contempla-
tion every thing foreign was harharian, and
with the most unhounded confidence in them-
selves and their country the Chinese had no
thought or care to hestow upon others. They
heeded no comment upon their customs or he-
liefs, and were quite satisfied to follow the faith
of their ancestors and conform to the usages
that had come down from ancient days. After
the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope, and
the advance of commerce into the opulent East,
China was hrought into contact with the West-
ern nations. The veracity of Marco Polo, whose
stories hitherto had seemed like the fancies of
fi ~
vEil, eovaaxoa OF CANTON.
