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Agricultural Research Service United States Department of Agriculture
 
Research Project: The Advancement of Spectroscopic Sensors/chemometric Analysis for Quality Assessment of Fiber, Grain, and Food Commodities

Location: Quality and Safety Assessment Research Unit

Title: Fourier Transform Near-Infrared Spectroscopy for Determining Linen Content in Linen/cotton Blend Products.

Authors
item Sohn, Mi-Ryeong
item Himmelsbach, David
item Akin, Danny
item Barton Ii, Franklin

Submitted to: Textile Research Journal
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: June 10, 2005
Publication Date: August 1, 2005
Citation: Sohn, M., Himmelsbach, D.S., Akin, D.E., Barton II, F.E. 2005. Fourier transform near-infrared spectroscopy for determining linen content in linen/cotton blend products. Textile Research Journal. 75(8):583-590.

Interpretive Summary: In the United States, most of the blended fabrics (linen/cotton) are imported form other countries because of cheaper labor costs. Quality and cost of the blended fabrics are related to the amount of linen blended. The US Customs Office is charged with assessing the blend composition in imported fabrics. Currently, the only analytical methods for linen contents in linen/cotton blends are based on microscopy or involve dissolving particular components in differential chemicals. Both way are, however, very time consuming, costly and produce environmental waste. Therefore, a rapid, accurate and environmental friendly analytical method is required. This study shows that FT-NIR spectroscopic technique has the potential to predict linen content of linen/cotton blend products in textile industry, rapidly and non-destructively. A NIR-based quality assessment system would provide benefits in both the importation of fabric blends and to the consumer by ensuring the quality of linen/cotton blends.

Technical Abstract: Flax fibers may be blended with cotton to provide an aesthetic property, improve performance and tailor fabric properties. The quality and cost of the woven fabric blends are affected by the amount of linen in the blend. Microscopic and chemical analyses are currently used to determine linen content in fabrics. This study describes a method to predict the linen percentage in linen/cotton blends using Fourier transform near-infrared (FT-NIR) spectroscopic method, rapidly and non-invasively. A calibration model using partial least squares regression analysis was developed with gravimetrically measured ground flax-cotton fiber mixtures as reference samples versus NIR spectra. The best model occurred with the multiplicative scatter correction and first derivative processing of the spectral data gave a standard error of validation of 2.24%, and only one factor was used for the model performance. Using this model, flax content was predicted in specific mixtures of flax and cotton fibers, blended flax-cotton yarns, and various non-scoured flax-cotton fabrics, giving standard errors of prediction less than 3%. Application of the calibration model to the scoured fabric, however, resulted in a higher error value. This result seemed to be due to loss in wax components and substantial changes in the NIR absorbance values of the fabric resulting from the scouring process. An alternative calibration model for scoured and dyed fabrics was developed, and using the model it was possible to predict flax contents in dyed fabrics with an error of 4-6%.

     
Last Modified: 02/15/2009