Underhill, Geoffrey R. D.
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List of Tables ix
Preface and Acknowledgements xi
List of Abbreviations xvii
Introduction 1
Focus of the Study 2
The Arguments: The Political Economy of Trade
Liberalisation 6
Implications for Theory 18
Structure of the Book 25
1 Material Underpinnings: Economic Structure
and Industrial Crisis, 1974-84 33
Economic Dimensions of the Sector: Complexity
and Fragmentation 34
Decline and Adjustment in the Textile
and Clothing Sector 40
Global Competition and Production Costs:
The 'Competitive Equation' in Textile
and Clothing Industries 47
Conclusion 61
2 International Competition, Domestic
Industrial Crisis, and the Strategies of
Firms 70
International Trade and Industrial Adjustment 72
The Textile Problematic: The French Case 74
Conclusion 94
3 State, Market Governance, and Particularistic
Interests: The Political Economy of Capture 101
Textile and Clothing Interests: the US and UK 103
French Textile and Clothing Interests 109
Policy Issues and State-Industry Relations in France:
The Political Economy of Capture 120
Flexible Specialisation and Associational Systems in
the Italian Textile and Clothing Industry 136
Conclusion 142
4 Capturing the Global Trade Regime 153
From STA to MFA 157
The First MFA Agreement 160
Renewing the MFA: France, Transnational Capture,
and the EU on the Offensive 165
Conclusion: The Fourth MFA 187
5 Dismantling Protectionism: The Political
Economy of Liberalisation in the Uruguay Round 197
Firm Strategies and Changing Economic Structure:
the Accelerating Globalisation of Textile and
Clothing Production in the 1980s and Early 1990s 204
The 1986 MFA Renewal and the Uruguay
Round Launch 221
Conclusion: State and Market in Global Textile Trade 252
Appendix: Uruguay Round Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing 258
Index 274