In 1991 historian Bill Brown described some of the difficulties mountaineers face in climbing North America's highest peak: Mt. McKinley.  It was also the last year that no one died on the mountain.  That is, until this year.  This past climbing season is the second time since 1991 that the mountain did not claim any lives. "That is the kind of news we want to see more often in future mountaineering summaries," said South District Ranger J.D. Swed.  "The statistic is even more impressive when you consider that 1,183 mountaineers attempted to climb the 20,320-foot high peak this year."   

Weather continues to be a significant factor in summit bids in the Alaska Range. Unrelenting high winds contributed to a summit rate of less than 20% during the month of May. Later in the season, stretches of moderate weather allowed more mountaineers to reach the top of McKinley.  This raised the overall summit percentage for the season to 43%.  The historical summit rate dating back to 1903 remains at 51%.

As if spring conditions on the mountain are not challenging enough, some climbers still aspire to summit the mountain in the winter. This past winter, mountaineering activity on Denali saw intense cold weather and high winds. This led to an early retreat for three expeditions.  Although no climber summited Mt. McKinley this past winter, one tenacious Japanese soloist spent 57 days in attaining the summit of Mt. Foraker, although not in time to be considered a winter ascent.

Historian Bill Brown noted the following: "that the pioneer climbers incrementally discovered the way up, made their ascents, and came back to tell their stories is a testimonial to grit, frontier improvisation, and luck." As we close the books on the past 20th century's history of mountaineering, we will continue our work towards a trend in fewer rescues and fatalities into the next century. That way tomorrow's climbers can also bring their stories back from the top of North America.

There were nine major mountaineering incidents in 1999 involving 15 mountaineers.  The National Park Service expended $101,223 for mountaineering related search and rescue activities. The military spent an additional $115,604 assisting in these incidents.  The NPS staff, volunteers and helicopter operation saved eight lives this past season.  (Lives saves are denoted by a  *  below in the description of the incident.)   

                           
Falls, West Buttress: On May 15, 1999, two Spanish climbers were air evacuated by the NPS Lama helicopter from the 17,200-foot high camp.  The two climbers had fallen 500 feet the previous day while descending from the 18,350-foot level.  Their injuries prevented them from descending any further and they requested assistance from the NPS.  Lifeguard flew the two to an Anchorage hospital for treatment.  **

Fall, West Rib: On May 19, 1999, an Italian climber fell 65 feet off a serac on the West Rib and injured his leg and chest.  The climber had been filming the ski descent of his partner when the accident occurred.  The injured climber was assisted by an American expedition that made contact with the NPS and assisted in readying the patient for air evacuation by the NPS Lama helicopter.  Once off the mountain, Lifeflight flew the climber to an Anchorage hospital for treatment. *

Frostbite-Hypothermia-Fall, West Buttress: On May 20, 1999, a British climbing team requested rescue from the summit plateau of Mt. McKinley when one of their members became incapacitated from frostbite and fatigue.  That evening two members of the party were shorthauled from the 19,500-foot level.  The third

member of the expedition had gone for help but fell and broke his leg after falling from the 18,200-foot level while descending Denali Pass.  On May 21, the third climber was found by an American expedition and shorthauled from 17,500 feet to 7,200-feet by an NPS ranger.  All three members of the expedition were taken to an Anchorage hospital for treatment.  Two of the members suffered permanent loss of tissue, fingers and toes due to their frostbite.  ***

Fall, Thunder Mountain: On May 21, 1999, an American climber fell 200 feet fracturing both legs while attempting to climb a couloir on Thunder Mountain, a satellite peak of Mt. Hunter.  His climbing partner was initially able to lower him 200 feet, but the severity of the fractures made them abort their descent and the partner went for help.  The partner rappelled and down climbed 2,500 feet to the glacier airstrip and successfully flagged an air taxi pilot.  A large rescue effort was organized including participation by the military, the Alaska Incident Management Team and 16-person multi-agency rescue team.  The weather remained inclement for flying which delayed the rescue effort for 38 hours.  On May 23, an NPS ranger shorthauled on a 200-foot rope below the NPS Lama helicopter and successfully rescued the American climber.  The climber was transported via a Lifeflight helicopter and treated for frostbite and multiple fractures.  *

Frostbite, West Buttress: On May 25, 1999, a Japanese climber frostbit three fingers on each hand while attempting to reach the summit of Mt. McKinley.  The climber was provided medical help at the 17,200-foot camp and assisted to the 14,200-foot ranger camp.  He was evacuated five days later by the NPS Lama helicopter when weather permitted.  He was flown off the mountain to Talkeetna and provided ground transportation to an Anchorage hospital.

HAPE, West Buttress: On May 31, 1999, while ascending Mt. McKinley, an American climber experienced HAPE and bronchiolar spasms.  She reported into the 14,200-foot ranger camp where she was evacuated by the NPS Lama helicopter.

Fall, West Buttress: On June 6, 1999, an American soloist fell 100 feet at the 17,500-foot level of the West Buttress route.  Due to the fall and his lack of experience, the soloist was escorted from the 17,500-foot level to the 7,200-foot base camp over a two-day period.



Crevasse Fall, Kahiltna Glacier: On July 5, 1999, an American climber fell into a crevasse at the 6,800-foot level on the Kahiltna Glacier.  The climber's partner was not able to extricate him and radioed for assistance.  NPS rangers at the 7,200-foot camp responded and extricated the climber. *

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