Notes on a voyage from San Francisco to San Diego in the Schoon Spray - Capt. James Hall - commander. Friday December 27. 1850 {1850/12/27} This morning the wind being favorable got underweigh, and as all the passengers were on board, I had a view of those who were to be my fellow passengers They consisted of a Spaniard, and his wife, and family, bound to the first port which is Montery. Another old spanish Don, bound to San Diego, and an Italian, and I must confess that it looks to me as if all my conversation must be directed to Johnson. There was a good breeze in the morning, so we had a [end of page log510_108.gif] good chance to test the sailing qualities of our vessel, and I must say, that she is the fastest vessel I ever saw sail on the water. There were a number bound out with us, but we beat them all. The appearance of the land from San Francisco down, is rugged and barren. I have not felt that feeling of sea-sickness which I expected, and am happily disappointed, and have been engaged all day in learning Spanish from the grammar. Saturday 28 {1850/12/28} Fresh breeze this morning, and have been hove [end of page log510_109.gif] to, most all night, waiting for daylight to run into Montery. The wind has headed us off during the night, and we are now obliged to beat into the bay of Montery. We came to anchor about 1 P.M., went ashore with the Captain to see the town. Montery to my taste is anything but inviting. I do not think that money would tempt me to remain here any length of time, although money is what I came to California for, for here all is as quiet as the grave There are enough Americans here, to say that there is life in the place, and that is all. There is but one place of landing, which is a kind of rude wharf, which forms a [end of page log510_110.gif] breakwater from the surf, for boats at night. I returned in about an hour. Sunday 29th {1850/12/29} Last night I did not feel very well ; so I opened my trunk and took some medicine, after which I felt better - It is a lovely day. I think the most pleasant day at home, could not equal it, but I cannot enjoy it The captain and his lady have gone ashore for a ramble while I am busily engaged looking at the sennorillas[?] through the glass, and wishing myself at home, enjoying the company of some of my friends. The Capt. and his lady have returned [end of page log510_111.gif] Monday 30th {1850/12/30} Johnson has gone ashore this morning, in the shape of a Yankee Pedlar, with some of Savour's best on his arm, I mean that he has gone ashore to try and sell some boots, of which we have a large assortment; but I am unable to assist him in the least, being very sick yet. He sold some $150 worth to some Spaniards. We sailed this evening for St. Louis, and arrived there on Wednesday. [end of page log510_112.gif] Wednesday January 1st {1851/01/01} The town of St. Louis is 9 miles inland, but I did not visit it on account of my inability to ride that distance; but Mr. Johnson did, on horseback, and paid dearly for it, being sore ever since in every bone in his body. He says nothing in favor of it however. I went ashore thinking a walk do me good, and took my rifle with me (which by the way I never go without in this wild country) and travelled a mile and a half inland, until I came to a deep valley, with a small stream about 15 or 20 feet wide running through it, which came from the [end of page log510_113.gif] mountain. The surface of this stream was covered with every variety of water fowl. Some of the young sportsmen of Eastport, who content themselves with shooting sand pips, and crows, would have found game of superior quality and in abundance. Captain Hall sold some of his cargo here, but was unable to land it, on account of the surf on the beach. Sold no boots here. Friday 3d {1851/01/03} We left St. Louis this afternoon, and before leaving, the Captain sent the second mate ashore, with 5 or 600 dollars part payment for some of the cargo, which [end of page log510_114.gif] he was unable to land, and was obliged to refund the money; and no sooner had she struck the beach, than over she went bottom upwards, with two of the men under her, and they had a narrow escape for their lives - Had the Captain not taken the precaution, to lash the bag to the thawl, of the boat it would have been lost when she upset. Saturday 4th {1851/01/04} Heavy weather ; wind from S.E. to E.S.E. with rain, and now we begin to feel sea-sick I thought I should escape this time - [end of page log510_115.gif] Sunday 5th {1851/01/05} The wind has increased in violence, and we are now under double reefs, but our vessels behaves well. She is as good a sea boat as she is a fast sailer, which is all a man may ask - I have no fear of a lee shore, in this vessel, with Captain Hall for he knows every harbor, and I might say every rock, on the coast, having cruised around here for 16 years -- Monday -- {1851/01/06} The weather has somewhat moderated, and so has my sea-sickness. At 9 o'clock passed [end of page log510_116.gif] cole to the mail Steamer for San Francisco ( I pray she may bring me a letter) After passing the steamer, got a better wind, and soon were going at the rate of 10 knots, more than we ever got out of the old Amelia, with a fair wind and as much as we wanted. -- Tuesday -- {1851/01/07} Johnson has gone ashore this morning, to bargain off some of our boots, and I shall follow in the afternoon, to try my fortune. [end of page log510_117.gif] Wednesday 8th {1851/01/08} I went ashore this morning, to try my hand peddling. I may say for I looked more like a peddler than anything else, with a bundle of boots swinging across my arm, I went into a ranch kept by a Spaniard, and passed the morning salutation in very good Spanish; and then as asked him if he wanted to buy any boots, this morning, he said no ; but I stuck to him like a true yankee, and sold him $80 worth. Those I had on my arm, being samples of what I had on board. But I had a hard time talking Spanish, for he did not understand a [end of page log510_118.gif] word of english, and I but little of spanish; however by a few words and a great many signs, I made out pretty well. After I got through with my trading, Johnson and I visited the mission De Lores, which is I think about one mile and a half from the town. It has been quite a pretty place in days long gone by, but now is in a state of decay - The chapel is a very large building, and has been a very good one. Attached to the right of the chapel, is an ell intended I suppose as the residence of the priest - Both of these are like the other houses in Santa Barbara, [end of page log510_119.gif] but not of that dirty aspect, that most of them have, for it is plastered with something resembling our plaster, on the outside, and it looks very well. I did not go into the chapel, as my time was limited, and I had the water fountain and garden to inspect. I found the fountain dry, but in a very good state of preservation. The fount is about 10 feet high, and throws the water from seven or eight holes in the top, into a basin at the bottom - and from thence through into another large basin, and from this into a drain, about a foot wide, and six inches deep, built of stone. This drain runs through the garden, and is [end of page log510_120.gif] used for watering the garden. This water is conducted down from the neighboring mountains. The garden, or enclosure, is some five hundred yards square, with a wall six or seven feet high. Whatever this garden may have been, it is nothing now, but is filled with rank weeds, clover, or grass; and yet it retains some faint traces of it former beauty; for the many trees are well set out, and form spledid walks, and shadey arbours. With some labor and expense, this might be converted into an Eden As it was near evening, I was obliged to return - but before leaving Santa Barbara, I must say a few words about the fair sex, and the place [end of page log510_121.gif] itself. The town is pleasantly situated, but is exceedingly dull and quiet, and as to the ladies, the handsomest lady I ever saw in my life, I saw there. Indeed as a class all the senoretas, are handsome enough to captivate the heart of one, even less susceptible than myself, or mine I should say - but as my time is so short, I was obliged to tear myself from all that makes life dear - lovely women - -- Thursday 9th -- {1851/01/09} Left Santa Barbara for San Pedro. in the afternoon, but it was very calm during the night. Next morning it blew a small gale, and was obliged to take in the main and mizen gale topsails, [end of page log510_122.gif] and haul down the flying jib, and at last take in the mizen. We were then running with, fore and mainsail fore-top-mast staysail, and jib, at the rate of 9 knots an hour although close hauled on the wind. She could have carried the mizen, but we would not have been able to eat any breakfast with any sort of comfort. She would then have been going at the rate of 10 knots which is considerable for a fore and aft schooner. It is quite calm now as I write. We arrived at San Pedro Friday night, and tomorrow I shall go ashore to look round - [end of page log510_123] - Saturday 11th - {1851/01/11} This morning dressed and went ashore with the Captain and the rest of the passengers San Pedro is no place of any importance; consisting of a few buildings on the bank, and two storehouses on the beach - Captain Hall, Johnson, and I went in the stage for Los Angelos, distant 30 miles from San Pedro - inland. The stage did I say: I might with more truth say a meat wagon, for it puts one in mind of Mr. Gleason's meat wagon, for it was just such a one, and the fare out was $12 and back. But the ride repaid us amply. The country for miles is level as a floor, and as [end of page log510_124.gif] far as the eye could reach, it was one vast plain covered with herds of cattle of all kinds, and ever and onon, the air would be darkened with thousands of birds, souring far above our heads. There were flocks of wild geese, and there a flock of turkeys, stretching their necks to look at us as we passed not seeming at all shy, and in the ponds by the road side, were vast numbers of ducks. We arrived at Los Angeles at 3 P.M. Within a short distance of the town, we passed some splendid vineyards, but as it is not the right time, of course there was no fruit. We stopped at the American hotel, which we should call at home, a mud house, however here [end of page log510_125.gif] we got our dinner, and then out we went to explore the town. It is like most other spanish towns, but here I think there is more life than in any of the other towns I have seen, since leaving San Francisco. Here are five or six quite respectable looking wooden houses, owned by Americans. I traveled round by town but saw nothing remarkable about it, although I had heard much of Los Angeles. There is nothing here to encourage men of my line of business (I mean of my trade), nor do I think there ever will be or ever was. There is a canal cut through the town, and the water is let in at pleasure. [end of page log510_126.gif] It was in to day, and scores of senoreta's were washing their clothes in it. No scarcity of water to wash with. At dark I returned to my hotel, and got my supper, which was very good for they charge $ 1.00 . After supper, I was standing in the bar-room, looking at some men playing billiard, when I heard a great shout, and immediately after, the report of two pistoles, We all rushed to the door, and saw a troop of californians, on horse back, galloping off as quickly as the could. I inquired what the matter was, and learned, that these men were galloping then horses through the street, contrary to law. [end of page log510_127.gif] And that they had run over a man and they feared that he was mortally wounded; and to pay them for it one of the by-standers drew his pistol, and gave them a couple of shots, before they got beyond their reach The man was lying on his back, to all appearances dead, but after a while he recovered his senses. A number collected with their pistols, and had they returned, some of their number would have bit the dust. There was another bustle that night. An american had some words with a spaniard, and presented a double barrel gun at his breast, but as good fortune willed it, the gun would not go of, and so he escaped. There are some ten of twelve texicans here and they would think nothing of shooting a spaniard. [end of page log510_128.gif] who stand in great awe of them. Every man in Los Angelos carries one of Colts revolvers if not two. Where ever you meet a man, you see the butt of his pistol sticking out of his side. I went to bed at ten o'clock, and a harder bed I never slept on. I believe the side of a pine plank would have been softer We got breakfast at eight, and strolled round the town till 11 o'clock and then took the before mentioned meat cart, and arrived in San Pedro at 5 o'clock We got supper at the Ranche and paid uno paso for it, and returned on board satisfied with what we saw in Los Angelos [end of page log510_129.gif] Monday {1851/01/13} Equiped myself this morning for a hunting expedition, and went ashore accompanied by Johnson. We traveled all day, over lofty hills, through deep vallies and across vast plains but found no game; which is accounted for, by our not taking the road to Los Angelos, but we wanted to see a different part of the country. In our rambling, we came across some prickely pears, and wanting to secure one for the Captain's lady, in my hurry I got my hands full of thistles, and did not get them all out for two days [end of page log510_130.gif] which made me mindful of the saying "beware of thorns when you pluck roses" The larger thorns were of so hard, a nature, that one of them went through my boot into my foot, and in endeavoring to pull it out, it broke off, which made me cry out with pain. I was obliged to take my boot off and pull it out. In crossing a large plain, in pursuit of a flock of wild geese, we came upon a herd of wild cattle. They showed a willingness, if not a determination to fight; but as we had but one rifle, and no tree to climb for safety, we thought discretion, the better part of valor, so vammosed and [end of page log510_131] left them in peaceful possession, and were glad to get off so, for we did not like the looks of one old gentleman, which seemed to say "out of this, or I will make you, so we obeyed as quickly as possible, for fear that he would put his threat into exicution. At night we returned on board, and were laughed at by the crew for not having any game. Tuesday 14th {1851/01/14} This morning on going on deck, I was surprised to find a raft a lumber alongside, the crew [end of page log510_132.gif] having been at work since day break, discharging it from our hold and rafting it alongside, for the purpose of towing it along shore. This day passed off like many others (fine weather and no fish) and at night, the boats came alongside, bringing off a number of passengers for San Diego. Among them, was one Don Tumas, and wife, a young spanish girl, and he, an old man almost fifty and was the cause of some trouble though innocently. He was the owner of a vineyard at Los Angelos, and brough some wine on board with him, which caused the trouble. [end of page log510_133.gif] Wednesday 15 {1851/01/15} This morning the weather is foggy and disagreable. While at breakfast one of the hands got into a quarrel with the steward. One of them had a hatchet, and the other with the axe; but the Captain soon put a stop to it. The steward was drunk, and where did he get his liquor? There was the query. After breakfast the Capt. searched the steward's stateroom and then the pantry, and there found the cause of all the trouble, in the shape of a keg of white wine, which Don Tumas had left there for safety; and he opened it to pay for taking care of it. [end of page log510_134.gif] He was drunk all day. Nothing went right with him; and to cap the climax, got into a quarrel with Mr. Duff the first mate. We had two ducks for dinner to day, and I secured the wish-bone to break with Mrs. Hall. Perhaps you may guess what my wish was. Thursday 16 {1851/01/16} We are now underweigh for San Diego, but are making but little progress, owing to light winds. Our lady passengers are all sick including Mrs. Hall [end of page log510_135.gif] At 5 P.M. a breeze sprung up, and now at 8 we are going at the rate of 5 or 6 knots an hour. I remained on deck to night when all the rest of our fellow passengers went below. It was too pleasant to sleep. The moon is full, and casts in broad light across the water, and this is the kind of a night I love. I love to steal away by myself, and think of the past . [end of page log510_136.gif]