U. S. Food and Drug Administration
FDA Consumer
May 1994
Chemical Ingredients found in Cosmetics
This article originally appeared in the May 1994
FDA Consumer magazine.
It is no longer being updated and may contain information that is out of date.
Current information is available at
Cosmetic Products and
Ingredients.
At present, the cosmetic industry selects from more than 5000
different ingredients. It's no wonder consumers can be perplexed
when they see the list. Here are some common cosmetic ingredients
and their usual functions (active drug ingredients are not included).
MOISTURIZERS function as a moisture barrier or to attract
moisture from the environment:
- cetyl alcohol (fatty alcohol) - keeps oil and water from separating;
also a foam booster
- dimethicone silicone - skin condition and anti-foam ingredient
- isopropyl lanolate, myristate, and palmitate
- lanolin and lanolin alcohols and oil - used in skin and hair
conditioners
- octyl dodecanol - skin conditioner
- oleic acid (olive oil)
- panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative) - hair conditioner
- stearic acid and stearyl alcohol
PRESERVATIVES and antioxidants (including vitamins) prevent
product deterioration:
- trisodium and tetrasodium edetate (EDTA)
- tocopherol (vitamin E)
ANTIMICROBIALS fight bacteria:
- butyl, propyl, ethyl, and methyl parabens
- DMDM hydantoin
- methylisothiazolinone
- phenoxyethanol (also rose ether fragrance component)
- quaternium-15
THICKENERS and waxes used in stick products such as
lipsticks and blushers:
- candelilla, carnauba, and microcrystalline waxes
- carbomer and polyethylene thickeners
SOLVENTS used to dilute:
- butylene glycol and propylene glycol
- cyclomethicone (volatile silicone)
- ethanol (alcohol)
- glycerin
EMULSIFIERS break up and refine:
- glyceryl monostearate (also pearlescent agent)
- lauramide DEA (also foam booster)
- polysorbates
COLOR additives:
- Synthetic ORGANIC colors derived from coal and
petroleum sources (not permitted for use around the eye):
- INORGANIC pigments - approved for general use in cosmetics,
including for the area of the eye:
- iron oxides
- mica (iridescent)
HAIR DYES - phenol derivatives used in combination with other
chemicals in permanent (two-step) hair dyes:
pH ADJUSTERS stabilize or adjust acids and bases:
- ammonium hydroxide in skin peels and hair waving and straightening
- citric acid - adjusts pH
- triethanolamine pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap
OTHERS:
- magnesium aluminum silicate absorbent - anti-caking agent
- silica (silicon dioxide) - absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive
- sodium lauryl sulfate - detergent
- stearic acid - cleansing, emulsifier
- talc (powdered magnesium silicate) - absorbent anti-caking
- zinc stearate - used in powder to improve texture, lubricates.
FDA CONSUMER, May 1994
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