174                        SANTO DOMINGO.
hills of Puerto Plata (silver port), marked by the most
prominent peak on the north coast, known as Pico (peak)
Isabella, or, as it is sometimes called, the " saddle," from
its peculiar shape. The storm clouds, though, are now
rolling their vapoury masses from its peak nearly 3000
feet high, the effect being wonderfully grand and majestic.
Such is the perfect deliciousness of the weather at sea in
this climate, that it seems almost a pity to reach the
'• promised land," were it not that it appears, as we draw
near, almost to verify at this distance those lines of
the " Emigrant Song," a place—
" To rear new homes amid trees that glow
As if gems were the fruitage of every bough :
Eound the white walls to train the vine,
And sit in its shadow at the day's decline,
And watch the flocks as they roam at will
O'er the green savannas so broad and still."
But truly " all is not gold that glitters," as we find on
closer acquaintance with this really wonderful domain and
its peculiar inhabitants ; for here it might truly be said
that the aspect of nature is beautiful and grand, and, seen
in all its magnificence of luxuriant tropical vegetation,
that reaches to the very mountain peaks, is the place where
apply those hymn lines so familiar to us all—
" Where every prospect pleases, and only man is vile."
At five o'clock in the afternoon we are directly off the
harbour of the town ; and, without waiting to take a pilot,
the staunch little steamer goes rapidly in through the
narrow and somewhat shallow channel, the surf rolling
gently on the sandbars and shoals that are on each side of.
the harbour, and we quickly come to anchor some distance
from the shore.
The bay contained several German vessels, that had lain
there for nearly eight months on account of the war
between France and Germany.    They came out for cargoes