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July
17, 2001
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an
online newsletter for and by NOAA employees
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Denali/Mt. McKinley Adventure Following was written by James Wiesmueller, a lead forecaster for the National Weather Service, Baltimore/Washington Forecast Office. "The view from the top of Mt. McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!" -1913 quote from the first explorers to reach the summit. Yes! On June 4th at 3:18 pm, on the 17th day of our climb, five climbing partners (out of an the original nine) and I reached the summit of the Great One, Denali/Mt. McKinley, 20,320 ft. For me, it was a moment of supreme personal triumph, and one of the great thrills of my life. Big congrats all around, handshakes, backslapping, damp eyes, prayers of thanks, photos, and then…"let's get out of here now!"  It was unquestionably the most difficult climb I have ever done, an enormous physical and emotional drain. Hauling heavy gear up to the next camp, then back down to sleep (carry high, sleep low to acclimatize), then carry to the next higher camp, set up camp and build protective snow walls around the tents, and so on day after day. All the while thoughts ranging from hopeful optimism to anguish and despair as defeat seemed to close in. We had to battle fierce winds and white-out conditions from 11,000 to 13,500 feet and again at high camp at 17,200 feet, but, for the most part, Denali was very kind to us with many spectacularly sunny mild days (20 max) and light winds. Even summit conditions could hardly have been better. Coldest temperatures ranged from -20F to -25F at night. The camps were like close knit little tent villages with a friendly camaraderie among climbers from many nations. I counted 20 countries in camp.  Author After reaching
the summit we headed down and returned to base camp in only two days (whew,
I was dead tired!) Then a flight from the lower glacier by bush plane
through One Shot Pass (an ominous name), and back to Talkeetna for a huge
steak dinner and celebration. Mountain climbers are party animals. It is difficult to find words that adequately describe the incredible beauty of that place and the view which stretched for hundreds of miles in all directions. Stunning comes to mind. I have many stories to tell (especially about my talent for finding hidden creases…the hard way!). Great to be back in Alaska! 
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