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Contents Introduction: Being a Stranger 1 one / time travel Memory and Creation: The View from Fifty 17 The Object of Desire 35 At the Sharp End: Being in the Peace Corps 40 Five Travel Epiphanies 46 Travel Writing: The Point of It 49 two / fresh air fiend Fresh Air Fiend 57 The Awkward Question 62 The Moving Target 65 Dead Reckoning to Nantucket 70 Paddling to Plymouth 79 Fever Chart: Parasites I Have Known 85 three / a sense of place Diaries of Two Cities: Amsterdam and London 93 Farewell to Britain: Look Thy Last on All Things Lovely 102 Gravy Train: A Private Railway Car 106 The Maine Woods: Camping in the Snow 113 Trespassing in Florida 120 Down the Zambezi 126 The True Size of Cape Cod 148 German Humor 151 four / china Down the Yangtze 157 Chinese Miracles 189 Ghost Stories: A Letter from Hong Kong on the Eve of the Hand-over 236 five / the pacific Hawaii 271 The Other Oahu 271 On Molokai 277 Connected in Palau 283 Tasting the Pacific 293 Palawan: Up and Down the Creek 298 Christmas Island: Bombs and Birds 312 six / books of travel My Own 323 The Edge of the Great Rift: Three African Novels 323 The Black House 328 The Great Railway Bazaar 330 The Old Patagonian Express 336 The Making of The Mosquito Coast 341 Kowloon Tong 347 Other People's 349 Robinson Crusoe 349 Thoreau's Cape Cod 355 The Secret Agent: A Dangerous Londoner 363 The Worst Journey in the World 372 Racers to the Pole 378 PrairyErth 384 Looking for a Ship 388 seven / escapees and exiles Chatwin Revisited 395 Greeneland 408 V. S. Pritchett: The Foreigner as Traveler 419 William Simpson: Artist and Traveler 423 Rajat Neogy: An Indian in Uganda 432 The Exile Moritz Thomsen 435 eight / fugues Unspeakable Rituals and Outlandish Beliefs 443 Gilstrap, the Homesick Explorer 454 The Return of Bingo Humpage 459 Bibliography 463