CHAP. VII.]      RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY.                79
are innumerable. Their canoes are much inferior to those of the lower coast, whilst
their skin "baidarkes"
(kyacks) are not equal to
those of Norton Sound and the northern coast. Their grave boxes or tombs
are interesting; they contain only the ashes of the
dead. These people invari-         
ably burn the deceased.         Kalosh Indian Grave-box.
On one of the boxes I
saw a number of faces painted, long tresses of human hair depending therefrom. Each head represented a victim of the (happily) deceased one's ferocity. In his day he was doubtless more esteemed than if he had never harmed a fly. All their graves are much ornamented with carved and painted faces and other devices.
We shall not readily forget the reception given us by the residents of Sitka, who seemed bent on making up for the absence of the Governor, Prince Maksutoff. Russian hospitality is proverbial, and we all somewhat suffered therefrom. The first phrase of their language acquired by us, was "Petnatchit copla" (fifteen drops). Now this quantity-in words so modest-usually meant a good half tumbler of some unmitigated spirit, ranging from Cognac to raw vodka of a class which can only be described by a Californian term as "chain lightning," and which was pressed upon us on every available occasion. To refuse was simply to insult your host. Then memory refuses to retain the number of times we had to drink tea, which was served sometimes in tumblers,