calbk-147 California: its gold and its inhabitants: a machine-readable transcription. Collection: "California as I Saw It": First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress. Selected and converted. American Memory, Library of Congress

Washington, 1993.

Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.

This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.

For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.

rc01-796 Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress. Copyright status not determined.
1

CALIFORNIA:

ITS GOLD AND ITS INHABITANTS.

BY THE AUTHOR

OF "SEVEN YEARS ON THE SLAVE COAST OF AFRICA,"

"PEREGRINE SCRAMBLE," &c.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

THOMAS CAUTLEY NEWBY, PUBLISHER,

30, WELBECK STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE.

1856.

2 3
PREFACE.

THE following pages have been prepared from a journal briefly written every evening during my residence in California, in 1852; the few statistics which appear, have been noted down as they from time to time came before me.

In speaking of the American, it must 4 iv be borne in mind that he is represented as he is found in California , so far as respects the mass at that period; since, matters have in some degree improved.

5 CHAPTER I.

JANUARY--SAN FRANCISCO.

A LOVELY day--the winter is by far the best time of the year; certainly when the rains begin they are heavy, but ten days and a fortnight often follow with a delightful sunshine, and temperature never under forty degrees during the day; the evenings and mornings may require a little fire in the grate, but no one attends to it through the day, so it goes out. The 6 2 worst of the winter is the mud; knee-deep is a trifle in the vicinity of the town; and many of the streets not planked are now impassable.

This is a great day with our American friends here; every one calls upon every one, so the streets present a scene of incessant salutation in spite of mud; all the richer families have tables spread from noon till evening, with cakes, pies, jellies, ices, cold chicken, &c.; tea, coffee, liquors, champagne--eternal champagne, till one sickens at the sight of it; and how the men drink!

Then the several companies of firemen turn out and traverse the town in procession; they dress in helmets, red woollen frocks, and black trowsers--this is all well enough; but what strange enthusiasm makes them drag their engines, with all the appurtenances, about with 7 3 them? They have pride in the efficiency of their engines, and in case of fire, turn out with great alacrity, and, it must be allowed, noise.

A general fusillade in the streets, kept up by boys throwing explosive crackers about; the day winds up by all the male creation perambulating the drinking and gambling saloons, and then people become somewhat "tight," as the Americans call it.

I dined at a boarding-house--a bad dinner, everything huddled together, and cigars afterwards--worse than all.

A cloudy morning. The steamer "Northerner" came in from Panama with European and Atlantic mails--what crowds of people rush to the post-office to get a standing-place near the delivery window; as each arrives he forms up 8 4 behind the last man: in this manner they stand in single file, to wait their turn, with strange patience; I am sure I have seen five hundred men so waiting, and, on some occasions, a good place has been taken early by a "cute" Yankee, who expected no letters, but speculated upon its sale when he took the position; such places in the line have been sold for ten dollars. Through the consul, I got my letters early, some from home, a short one from the board, disappointing enough--directors seem to think machinery can be put up, mines opened, and returns made, without first sending out money.

The Aqua Fria Company seem to be "going ahead," because they have capital. A quartz lode at Placerville is offered to me--fair terms--the owners or agents, however are Jews, rather they were not--propose going to examine it. The ore 9 5 yields well, but where it really came from is a "quien sabe."

There are in the harbour 512 vessels, united tonnage 112,466. There are at Benicia, Sacramento, and Stockton, combined, 100 more, chiefly barques, this is exclusive of steamers--majority of these vessels are lying directed, and are going to ruin; supposing these vessels to be worth but ten dollars per ton, the value of those in San Francesco alone would be 1,344,660 dollars. Two years ago, scarcely a fishing-boat was to be seen here; now all the European nations feel it necessary to have a consul here, to look after their trading interests. Gold has, indeed, a wonderful power.

The night is brilliant, with its clear starlight.

A fine day, cool northerly wind, bright 10 6 and sunny, without frost.--Saw my Jew friends about their quartz lode at Placerville, arranged some preliminaries conditionally, the condition being, if I have money sent from England--sadly bothered on that head. The quartz of California is unquestionably good, better by far than that of the Brazils; only there the labour is cheap, and here it is dear. A good article in the newspapers to-day on quartz-mining:--

"In looking over the Atlantic papers we frequently notice announcements of the formation, in various parts of the older States, of companies for the purpose of bringing out machinery and apparatus to work gold-bearing quartz in this State. We look upon all such movements with the greatest interest. If proper care is taken in their organization, and practical machinists employed and 11 7 engaged in carrying them into operation, and complete and suitable machinery procured, there can be no doubt whatever of their success. But these requisites are indispensable. Many companies have been organized, and come here with machinery, but there have been none, within our knowledge, that have maintained their organization, and carried out their original intention. There seems to be some strange fatality attendant upon these companies, and many a man has embarked his all in them, and immigrated hither, only to find his operation a splendid failure. Large amounts of machinery have been landed here, which have been considered as wholly valueless.

"In hopes that we may throw some light upon the subject, and aid those who may be about to embark in these projects in the Atlantic States, we submit a few 12 8 remarks. In the first place, we look upon it as a piece of folly, for any set of men in the Atlantic States to attempt to form a company made up exclusively of those who have never been in California. There must be some one or more in it who has a thorough practical knowledge of the business of quartz-mining in this State. The information of others and theory, will not do, and capitalists should be careful how they invest their money, without being well satisfied that they are placing it in the hands of men whose practical experience is such as to warrant their putting machinery into operation. Men who are practical, --who may have worked the mines of Georgia and Virginia--but who have no experience in this country, will not do. The first effort, therefore, in the formation of these companies, should be to secure the 13 9 services of men who have been in the quartz-mines of this country, and worked them.

"Having secured competent men to take charge of it, and procured suitable machinery in all respects, the next most important matter in its transportation to the mines. Hitherto those companies appear to have acted upon the supposition that all that was required was a sufficient amount of money to get their men and machinery to San Francisco; and this has been the cause of failure in some instances. The cost of transportation of men and machinery to this place from the Atlantic is nothing, compared with the cost from here to the mines. A company, therefore, which sends out machinery, should have capital sufficient to set it in operation at the earliest practicable moment after its arrival. It may be said 14 10 that money can be procured here for that purpose upon machinery. So it can, at rates from five to ten per cent. per month--but capitalists at home, who have money to invest, do not feel disposed to pay such rates. If, therefore, they desire to see a company which they may send out here succeed, let them bear in mind that they must supply them liberally with means, to be used here. Why, it is not unfrequent for men to land right in our harbour without a dollar in their pockets, imagining, no doubt, that all they have to do, is to go out on some of the hills surrounding the city, and dig out what they want. Heretofore, some heavy capitalists in the Atlantic States appear to have acted in the same silly manner, by sending out companies of men, without means sufficient in their pockets to pay the lightering their machinery ashore.

15 11

"We do not wish to hold out dazzling inducements to capitalists to embark in the quartz speculation, nor would we desire to discourage them. We are glad to see that companies are being organized, and we throw out the above suggestions for the benefit of those engaged in them. We are satisfied that the inducements to invest capital in quartz machinery and quartz mining operations, are greater than those offering in any other line of business in California. It wants experience, however, added to ample means, so that those who may be entrusted with the management here, shall not be cramped in the outset. The same general principles are applicable to, and should govern the formation of companies in California as in the Atlantic States."

The English are making a great fuss with Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot; he 16 12 does not seem to get beyond mayors and corporations, however; it would serve a patriot much better, if these bodies would give him the money a dinner costs them, and which they help him to eat: he gets only one portion, and the next day may go without even that.

Sat with St--y some time; poor fellow! he is fast going from this world! Mr. P-- there, an American gentleman, a great admirer of Kossuth, as of course, all Americans must be.

A boarding-house dinner to-day--all sorts of people, from all nations.

The night calm, and very lovely.

Still lovely weather. Attended service at Dr. V--'s church, American Episcopal. The services taken from the Church of England Prayer-book, with some desirable revisions, tending to remove repetitions, 17 13 as also to render it suitable to Republican institutions. The Doctor has some peculiarities--to-day, after the Communion Service, he advanced to the altar-rail, and lectured the people for leaving the church immediately the prayers are over. The fact is, the Doctor preaches unattractive sermons in English, with so strong a Belgian accent, that neither Englishman, Belgian, nor any one else can understand him.

Saw poor St--y again--evidently sinking; to-day he was sitting up; Mr. and Mrs. H--, English people, called on him, and took me to dine with them.

Sunday in San Francisco does not look like Sunday; the people, after church, going either to the race-course, or to the bull and bear-fight--the first not worth seeing at any time here; and the last is at best a brutally cruel exhibition, but 18 14 here there is a stupidity about the whole affair that utterly takes away all the interest some see in it--the bull never seems to think he is called upon to fight the bear, and the bear appears equally ready to be on friendly terms with the bull--one stands up quietly gazing about, the other lies down, both wondering, apparently, why they are put together. I never went to either, race or fight; and so long as such things are allowed on Sundays, the day will not be much respected; and we have the following events recorded, viz.--

"SERIOUS DIFFICULTY.--A difficulty occurred on the race-course yesterday evening, in which a man named Edward Graves was supposed to be wounded. One Kirk was betting at Monte, when a dispute arose, pistols were drawn, and 19 15 Graves shot in the abdomen. Kirk has been arrested."

Cloudy at night.

A cloudy morning, after a rainy night. Went to see the machinery on the wharf at the north beach--the wharf appears in a very dilapidated state, scarcely fit to bear such heavy weights.

An Englishman just converted into an American enacts his new nationality awkwardly enough at first; one of these, wanting to sell me a steam-engine and boiler, declared it to be perfect without either safety-valve, or guage-cocks--but he had not brass enough to carry it out, and the attempt "caved in,"--Anglice, failed.

An invitation to dine with Captain F--m, United States army--a boarding house dinner, served French fashion: no 20 16 one knows what he is eating, or what is to come next, and after one has eaten of a number of messes, then in comes a really good roasted joint, which one has no appetite to partake of. After dinner to the general drawing-room--no tea, a melancholy want! sit five minutes, gentlemen to the saloons, ladies to their rooms, or to the balcony, if there is one over the street.

Judge H--m at dinner, a very pleasing man; he is presiding over his court, not by election of the people, but by the appointment of his Government: it makes all the difference imaginable--he cares only for the cause before him; the elected judge must look to what will please his electors.

The "Union" of the day gives a little insight into the habits of the Trinity society: from the quarrel to the blow, 21 17 "clinch" pistol or knife, there is but a short interval in these parts.

"Mr. John Tracy has given us some facts in relation to the stabbing of Forsyth by Asahel Brown, now under arrest in this city, which greatly lessens the guilt, if it does not altogether justify the course pursued by the latter. Mr. T. overheard the difficulty, which originated from a dispute at cards. Forsyth first struck Brown, when the latter clinched him, and inflicted the wound which caused the death of the former. Brown is represented to us by Mr. T. as being by no means a quarrelsome man; and in the altercation which took place between the parties, he conversed in an ordinary tone of voice, and was apparently not disposed to become unnecessarily excited."

The following literal summons was served upon an English gentleman, well 22 18 known in California as a traveller of enterprizing habits, intelligence, and good humour:--

"BENJAMIN FROSBURN

versus

F--k M--tt.

"The people of the stat of California to the Sheriff or any Consiable of Solano county Greeting you are Her by commanded to summons F--k M--tt to be and appear befor the under signed one of the justis of the piece of Solano County on the sixteenth day of January 1852 A.D. at my office in the city of Vallys at ten o'clock of said day to answer the compaind of Benjamin Frosburn for the sum of five hundred dollars otherwise judgement will be rendered against you By defalt given under my hand this thirteenth day of January A.D. 1852.

H. Hook, J.P."

23 19

This is, as near as possible, a copy of Mr. Justice's signature; it is almost needless to observe that the whole thing was an attempt to cheat; the only part true was the fact of Mr. Hook being really a J.P.

A foggy morning, which soon changed to a lovely day. The winter of this country quite exceeds an English summer.

There is a practice here which the high house-rent has originated. A four or five-room house cannot be rented under 150 or 200 dollars per month unfurnished, so one person takes the house, and as many as can agree form a mess, and live together in it--this is generally the practice of the unmarried English gentlemen; we are now just breaking up such a mess, because the house is taken by others, so 24 20 we leave to-morrow, and have the horrors of a San Francisco table-d'hoˆte before us. Sat with St--y; weaker and weaker, poor fellow!

Dined with Colonel and Mrs. W--k--m in "Pleasant Valley;" strangely named, being a small, sandy valley, between two sand-hills, which deprive the residents there of all view. Mrs. W. has a nicely laid-out garden--more comfort in this house than I have before met in any American residence. After dinner, the negro woman servant came in to ask, "what matter with the moon?" we all went out to see, for we had forgotten that it was a total eclipse that night.

Again a lovely day--I am only waiting here for money from the board of directors--what tiresome work, where men are making it in all directions!

25 21

Sat with St--y some time--very ill; he talks most affectionately of his two young daughters, as if he knew he should not see them again. A fine specimen of gold has been found. It is egg-shaped, rather flattened, and is intermixed with quartz, and from its appearance seems to be composed of about equal quantities of gold and quartz. It is perfectly smooth all over, caused undoubtedly by rolling in the river bed. It was found by the company on the bed of the river, and weighs seventy-three ounces and four pennyweights.

This company consisted of thirteen persons, who put in their flume this season, and in two weeks after its completion, took out 30,000 dollars, when they sold out for about 13,000.

Captain Cl--e asked me to stay with him at the North Beach--he is called the "John Bull American," having a jolly red face--at present he has charge of a 26 22 bonded warehouse, but he is a candidate for the appointment of a judge; the elections are now in progress.

The Americans have a queer way of managing elections--the mass of the voters of the several parties meet, of course, separately; they then discuss the merits of the candidates, and by a majority decide which shall be brought forward--that one is then put in nomination on the day of election against one of the opposite party; no other candidate can therefore split the party vote. The people elect to every office, political, judicial, municipal, religious, &c., and often make a pretty mess of it.

A splendid day--here is a San Francisco winter; the hills are now perfectly green with the young grass springing up, the trees and shrubs in full bud.

27 23

The machinery must be moved, and brought from North Beach to the bonded warehouse on Cunningham's wharf--so orders are given: this expense comes of not sending it out to arrive before the rains set in--heavy machinery cannot then cross the plains to the mountains.

There is a great contest about the site of the Capitol--Benicia, Valleyo, San Jose, and Sacramento, all bid for it--the Governor is ready to take the highest offer; the Legislature has met, and is now sitting at Valleyo, but there is not sufficient accommodation, and seven or eight senators sleep in one room--they are paid sixteen dollars per diem, with travelling expenses, so the sessions are long. The shifting of the Capitol so often, gave rise to the following ballad, in which the old English style is not badly imitated:--

28 24

"Ytt was about a yeare ago,Alle yn the south countreeA battle rose, alle where to knoweThe capitolle sholde bee.The lordlye barons alle dyd meete,A councyl for to holde;The mudde yt dyd stycke out "a-feete,"And bytter was the colde.Eache bolde baron felte sore and sadde,Yn fronte and reare and flanke,For "nary" bedde was too bee haddeBesydes the softe, softe planke.The Earle of Greene reported brief,Wyth woefulle, dolefulle wynke,Thatt there was nothynge butt jerked beefe,And noe goode wyne toe drinke.A fearfulle shoute did thence upryseYn ymprecatynge hymns,And somme dyd kurse theyre stuppide eyes,And somme dyd kurse theyre lymmbes.

29 25

The battelly rayged fulle mayne a daye,And stallwarte was the fyghte,Tille alle the knightes of San Jose´Were yn a pyteous plyghte.A fearfulle rowe was thate, I weene,Whych rayged yn thatte valleye;The myssion lorde dyd fyghte amaineAlle for his famillye.Thenne uppe there started Vallejo,And soughte the barons bolde;Sayde hee, "I've an broade landes, I trow,`Somme pummekyns' fulle of golde."Then dyd hee calle hys lyttle knyghte,The brave Sirre Younge Frysbe,"I'll gyve toe thee a dowrye bryghte,And noblye marrye thee."And uppe he further spoke and sayde--"So move the House, and, zounds!I'll gyve you broade--broade landes and breade;Three hundredd thousand crownes."

30 26

Thenne toe the barons of the lande,"I'll gyve some lottes toe ye,Yf you wyll promyse for toe standeAnd brayvelye fyghte for me."To manye an edittor, he toe,Of lande gayve bounteouslye,And lottes in block, "10,002,"Thatte brayve knyghte gayve toe "we."Syr Brodericke praysed that lyberal knyghte,And sayde a prynce was he;Syr Van declayred he with amyghtThatt moved the House sholde be.The representatives up stayrs--They dyd applaude hym soe,Thatt they welle nygh fell unawaresYntoe the roome belowe.Thenne uppe Syr Tyngleye and hys menne,And waxed all wrothe were theye,And sayde that theye wolde fyght amayneFor ever and a daye.

31 27

The menne of San Jose´ theye blaymedThose barons of the Stayte--Theyre Scryp theye sayed they would be d--Yf they'd negotyate.For San Jose´, a ladye gaye,A noble syght toe see,Shee boldlye myngled in the fraye,And foughte incessantlye.Sayde toe a baron stoute and owlde,"I have a valyante mindToe swappe youe for a donkeye bolde,Thenne cutte the donkey's wynde ."Brave Campbell sayd wyth knyghtlye mien, Thate yf theye there abode,He'd gyve them houses, fields soe greene,And build a rayl--raylroad.A puissant knighte was Vallejo,And valiant dyd he fyght;The House was ordered for toe goeUntoe the Napa syte.

32 28

Yt was nygh toe the Mare IslandThe House atte lengthe dyd reste,Butte soone, alas! McDougal's handeHadde founde a mare's neste.The castle leaked amayne--heygh ho!--Thee workmenne theye dyd stoppe,And nobodye but VallejoWold ary redde typpe uppe.Thenne up McDougal spake, wyth nowse,"Mye barons bold thys daye,We'll packe oure trappes and shyfte the HouseAgayne to San Jose´."And thenne Syr Campbelle built hys road;And cryed out myght and mayne,"Thatt that's the Capitalle abode,And shalle nott moove agayne."MORAL.Nowe all ye merrye gentlemenne--An ye'd nor sighe nor weepe,Take warning by McDougal's menne,And look before you leape.

33 29

The steamer from St. Juan del Suo came in; this is the line which crosses Nicaragua from Grey Town, in opposition to the Panama route. A beautiful night.

Fine northerly breeze, and a bright, beautiful day. Saw St--y; his state is alarming; worried in his mercantile affairs, and sinking under his illness--he cannot last long.

By the "Independence" steamer, news has arrived from Nicaragua, that the British ship-of-war "Express" has fired at the American steamer "Prometheus," with passengers for California; it is alleged the latter would not pay the harbour-dues--very consistent. What does the Californian American ever pay till he is forced to do so? The papers here are very grand on the occasion, and look forward to a war in consequence as certain; and we 34 30 have a detail of the valiant deeds of the Taylors, Twiggs, Wools, and other great transatlantic warriors of Mexican renown.

From parties who have just returned from a tour of exploration, we learn that gold has been found near Saddle mountain, which is plainly seen from almost any point near the mouth of the Columbia river, it being about fifty miles south-east of Astoria. These gentlemen report the quartz-rock to be abundant in that region, as well as the black sand, and other indications of gold. Several fine specimens were found, and brought to Astoria by Mr. Pease, the sheriff of Clatsop county, and other gentlemen. We learn also that gold has been found north of Puget's Sound, on the Coast Range, in several places, and that parties are now fitting out for mining operations in that region.

35 31

It is curious to see how these people cut through and carry away the enormous sand-hills surrounding the town, for the purpose of making some streets, and grading others; the sand so carried away is used to fill up within the piles which have been driven in to build upon, the limits of the city being yet far in the sea; in this manner the sea has already been bayed back upwards of five hundred yards, for a space of at least a mile and a half. All this has been built upon--there are five long wharves, extensive brick warehouses, theatres, &c., where, two years ago, the tide flowed unobstructedly. This is done on the chance of success; no matter if they fail!

The same fine weather. In the night the "Golden-gate" steamer came in from Panama, with European and Atlantic 36 32 mails--letters from the Board tell me the shares have been sold, and that they have enough money to begin with--so I suppose some will be sent here, but nothing can now be done till the spring.

The following has appeared in the papers; it must be understood that the "trial" was conducted by the mining-population of the district, who on such occasions assume judicial power--and also admitted that they generally discover a full sense of the equity of the case, but none of law:--

"ACQUITTAL OF JUDGE SMITH.--We are informed that Judge Smith, of Calaveras County, who shot Col. Collier a few days since, while engaged in a personal altercation, has since had a trial, and been honourably discharged. The jury returned a verdict of justifiable homicide."

37 33

Some more of the "richest" mines in California offered to me; huge pieces of quartz exhibited, which are declared to be but a sample of the whole; the gold is seen, of course, all over these portions; this game, however, will not do now.

Dined to-day with an American family, at their own house--we had a roast duck and oyster-pie, to be eaten together; after that had been accomplished, I had put on my plate, at the same time, gooseberry-tart, cheese, and preserved ginger. How very strange this seems to us, who see no reason for being in a hurry about such matters.

The most lovely weather continues; the rains generally are heavy in November and December; January, and the early part of February, delightful; then more or less rain till April; afterwards, 38 34 almost incessant sun and heat: the early rains, however, often render the plains quite impassable.

The Governor of the State and Mr. Mac D--, editor of the "Piccayune" newspaper, fight a duel! Editor scratched in the finger, and they leave the ground. "Liberty and Equality" seem to render people holding high office very regardless of the dignity we attach to offices of such a character; a governor, or other high officer with us, would never insult those over whom he ruled, nor could he be insulted by them, if he conducted himself.

A letter from the Board, directed to draw for money, but no letter of credit sent! Who here knows anything about the--Company in England? Of course I can get no money on a bill so drawn, and am, therefore, no better off than before.

39 35

Mr. Moffat and Dr. W. Rutherford have a scheme for searching the river San Joachim for gold, by means of a diving-bell; it is known that the native Indians dive to its bottom, and bring up portions of black sand, which is rich in fine gold; the scheme is not unlikely to pay, if undertaken; but so much gold can be obtained without going under water for it, that I doubt the probability of their getting any one to engage with them.

40 36
CHAPTER II.

TO SACRAMENTO.

WEATHER wonderfully fine--preparing to go up to Marysville--yesterday evening met my friend Cl--e, of the North Beach; he asked me if I would dine with a man who carried his ham home for dinner himself? I said, "No; but I will with the man who lets me help him carry it;" so I put my stick through the string at the end, Cl--e took one end, and I the other, in which manner we walked home. No one thinks anything of this; if you 41 37 buy from a shop, you must carry it home yourself, or pay a dollar or two for having it carried. A man would not sell me a trunk, not a large one, because I required him to send it not more than a hundred yards.

Called to say farewell to poor St--y; he is sinking now very fast, and we shall, I fear, meet no more; he is a kind-hearted, hospitable, honourable man.

At four P.M. on board the "New World" steamer for Sacramento, en route to the mountains. A great crowd on board, smoking and spitting everywhere--one cannot walk in the saloon without kicking over "spittoons," as the receiver is called, the very sight of which invites a discharge from an American mouth. Supper on board--tea, coffee, cakes and bread; a steak at one end of the table, innumerable small dishes up and down 42 38 the sides, holding--some one meat-chop, some a small fish each, a perch for instance, others contain one slice of ham, others again two baked potatoes, and so on; these dishes are cleared with a very natural rapidity, and the less energetic gentlemen must be contented with bread and butter; for this, one dollar and a half is paid.

At Sacramento by two o'clock A.M., the distance being about one hundred and thirty miles. Slept at the "Orleans" hotel.

Still beautiful weather. This city, like almost all American cities, is laid out in long broad streets, at right angles. I like the plan very much; the streets here running East and West, are named from the letters of the Alphabet, those running North and South are numbered. I asked for a person's house, and was told that 43 39 I should find it in "fourth upon A;" puzzling enough to a stranger. Awnings during the hot weather are extended from every house to the side of the plank footway, about eight or nine feet wide; but these said footways are shockingly blocked up with boxes, casks, in short, merchandise of every kind, to the great annoyance of the passers-by. This is a "free country," and every man pleases himself. The houses are as yet nearly all built of wood--one day a fire will show the advantage of brick; the city contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, of all countries; the German Jew preponderates.

The drinking and gambling saloons abound; the first holds its ascendancy, the latter are certainly retrograding. The hotels are extremely bad, the bed-rooms nearly all two beds in them; in many, a 44 40 total absence of any furniture necessary for the night, and none other, beyond a jug of water and a basin, with a towel fourteen inches square--I measured the towel in my room. For this two dollars are charged; but if you object to have any one in the room with you, four dollars must be paid--two for the bed you use, two for the bed you do not use; the cooking and attendance at table are as bad as may be; for every meal one dollar is charged, but anything beyond the most common fare is charged extra--an egg for breakfast is extra, and costs half-a-dollar, or 2 s . 1 d . sterling. There are some chapels here, which different persuasions have built; two iron founderies, one of them, Mr. Lambard's, does the work entrusted to him in a very faithful manner.

The situation of the town is so low, 45 41 that to keep the river out in winter, the people have raised a dyke twelve feet thick, and some miles in length. Two large steam-boats leave for San Francisco daily.

Met my old acquaintances, G--t and Judge W--h, at the Orleans hotel, and went with them, at ten o'clock, in a spring waggon to see the quartz-crushing mills, put up by G--t and Mr. R--d, near Auburn; the mill is about thirty-five miles from Sacramento. A hard road, thanks to the long succession of dry weather; G--t drove, and being above common prejudices, he rattled over every rock and tree-stump he could find. We got there safely, and then learned from him, that he had never driven any horses before.

The mill is beautifully put up, but they fail to crush enough quartz in the day 46 42 to make it remunerative; the stamper will not pulverise, under the best management, more than one ton and a half per diem--not enough, where labour is five dollars a day, mechanics seven and eight; they use also the shaking-table to amalgamate upon; they might as well use their hands. I saw the lode; it had shafts sunk upon it for a mill, was perfectly perpendicular in the ground, and between three and four feet thick. Masters and men all live together, republican fashion. G--t and R--y--d conduct the establishment, so far as the mill is concerned. The quartz I do not like--it is too clear and flinty, very hard; colour, a darkish watery brown, with a reddish tinge in it. They have thirty-six stamps, with a forty-horse power, but cannot pulverise much more than twenty tons per diem, and as yet have not got more than 47 43 thirty-two dollars in twenty-four hours. I do not think they have selected good quartz; but their loss in the process of amalgamation is, I am certain, large.

It is a pleasure to go into R--y--d's house this morning, Sunday, January 18. At breakfast, it was difficult to say which was the whitest, the table, the cloth, or the floor of the room; the cause of this is to be found in his having a respectable English housekeeper to manage the interior, to whom he pays one hundred dollars per month wages, with board; this is lower than these "helps" generally ask and have.

The site of the establishment is attractive; scarcely off the plain, it is easy of access, the mountains rise loftily behind, at a few miles' distance; where they live the oak and pine are in abundance, together with a variety of flowering shrubs; 48 44 a winter stream only supplies the mill; water for the winter only, and bad quartz, will never do in California.

Drove back to Sacramento--found three young gentlemen here, whom I formerly knew in an English colony, where their fathers held high positions. They came to dig for gold, but soon found they were unequal to the labour; men who have been bred to handle pens, will not do much with the pick and shovel. One of them had hired himself to a gardener, the other two had engaged in one of the hotels, as waiters; they each got five dollars per day, with board, and mean to save money, and get home again; the master says, they are his most confidential "helps."

The Legislature has been moved here; the members could not stand seven and eight in a bed-room, at Valleys; I went 49 45 to hear the debate--it was upon the appointment of a State printer; all these matters are of consequence, because each member has a man ready for the place; this is one of the blessings of giving the legislation the nomination of the officer--these petty matters consume days. The Speaker was lounging in his chair; before him was a wash-hand jug of water, and three glasses, and a dirtily-dressed boy sat drumming with his heels, in a velvet-cushioned chair--I was informed that he was the page!

Dined with Mr. and Mrs. C--l by invitation--the dinner half in English fashion, half American; the Californian American "dessert" is a mixture of confectionery, fruit, cheese, and preserves. As soon as the dinner is over, you go away; you are asked to eat only; the 50 46 delight of an English dinner-party, and evening afterwards, is unknown to the Californian American; he is seldom with his family there.

51 47
CHAPTER III.

TO MARYSVILLE.

THE same lovely weather continues. Before I left Sacramento, I visited Mr. Trask, and saw his collection of Californian minerals; it forms a very curious assemblage, and is valuable as a beginning; Mr. Trask is indefatigable in his pursuit of this branch of inquiry, and so far he has succeeded well.

At seven A.M. on board the steamer "Urilda," and away to Marysville. This is one of a number of small steamers that 52 48 traverse the Sacramento, and rivers above Sacramento, daily; they carry, exclusive of their machinery, from eighty to one hundred tons of merchandise, besides passengers and their baggage; yet they pass over the shallow rapids frequent in the rivers, especially in the Feather river to Maryville, where there is not more than three feet of water for them; the distance is about seventy-six miles, and the passage is made generally under nine hours.

There is nothing striking in the scenery of either the Sacramento or Feather rivers; the first, after leaving Benicia, passes through some low, flat, marshy country, till it comes within about sixty miles of the city, then the banks are prettily covered with oak and maple trees, round which the wild grape-vine climbs, and this continues up the Feather river 53 49 to Marysville. Arrived there at three P.M., after having been swept two or three times amongst the branches of the trees by the current.

Met my American friends, Mr. and Mrs. P--n, who propose going to the mountains to-morrow with me; he goes to show me a quartz-lode, he wishes me to work for him and his partners; it is called the Keystone.

Called on Dr. and Mrs. B--tt in the evening; and had tea with them; it is a relief to meet such society, desirable at all times, but infinitely so, after having been exposed for months to the boorish, though honest inhabitants of the wild, and what is worse, the pretensions of shopkeepers, who, by sudden circumstances, have arrived at a wealthy position; with the Dr. and Mrs. B--tt we are with an English gentleman, and an English lady, 54 50 in the most extensive sense of the term.

This city, as well as Sacramento, has a mayor and corporation; the population exceeds five thousand; it has an ironfoundry, theatre, jail, and sundry places of worship, according to the persuasions settled here; there are also two banks, to which the miners bring their gold to be exchanged for coin; the daily receipt of one of these banks varied from thirteen thousand to seventeen thousand dollars--I have known it take forty thousand in one day; the gold of the mines, or "diggings," sells for seventeen dollars thirty cents per ounce, to the Californian buyer of it.

Marysville is situated at the junction of the rivers Feather and Yuba, both large streams, merging their united waters in the Sacramento, about forty miles 55 51 below; it is at the head of the navigation for steamers in this direction, and is the depoˆt from which the more northern mining districts, for some hundred miles, are supplied with all the necessaries of life, which are conveyed on mules into the mountain region, which commences about fifteen miles from the city. From the lowness of the ground surrounding the place, and from the contiguity of the rivers, this vicinity is rendered unhealthy during the extreme heat of the dry season, when the temperature often reaches one hundred and ten degrees in the shade.

The steamers derive a very profitable traffic between Sacramento and Marysville, the freight being from place to place twenty dollars per ton, though from San Francisco to Sacramento, double the distance, the freight is but 56 52 eight dollars per ton; the charge for a passage between the last-named places is ten dollars, and five dollars in addition, if you take a "state-room" to yourself, as the space holding two beds is termed, it being about six feet by four.

There are "stages," as covered waggons are called, traversing the country for more than a hundred miles into the mountains; they are, however, most comfortless conveyances; when I have travelled by one, I will mention it more particularly.

57 53
CHAPTER IV.

TO THE KEYSTONE.

CONTINUATION of fine weather. Loading a waggon for the Keystone--all manner of things in it, from a gridiron to a four-post bedstead and its furniture.

Numbers of Indians prowl about Marysville--they are a very low grade of the human species; their object in sauntering about the streets is to pick up any old thrown-away clothing, of which there is a strange quantity lying about; it arises 58 54 from the miner throwing off all his mining apparel when he is going to leave for the Atlantic States, and fitting himself up with other things. I have often met a man so changed that I did not know him. In the mountains the woollen frock, a three or four years' beard, hair, and moustache are popular--all these give way to superfine cloth, a crop and shave.

At noon left Marysville with Mr. and Mrs. P--n, and reached Hickman's ranche (the general name now for a house of accommodation for travellers) at dusk. Sat in the kitchen to warm ourselves--two of the ugliest women in "all creation here, I guess"--the supper ready, stewed tripe and pork chops; nothing else but bread and, thank Heaven! some good fresh butter. Tripe and pork! what a combination of nauseous horrors!--Went to bed; one long room held about 59 55 twenty of us, here and there two in a bed. I was single--the Californian Americans say the Britishers don't make "kinder sociable" bedfellows.

I had some linen washed in Sacramento, and wanting a change, looked at it here. I found about half of it to be mine, the other half belonged to anybody--it had done hard service to whomsoever it belonged. If you complain, the "lady" or "gentleman" who washed for you, "guesses" the "fixings" have gone somewhere else, but you have got your number; you pay five dollars per dozen for washing.

There is an isolated range of mountains seven or eight miles from Marysville, called the "Buttes;" the word is pronounced "Bute," meaning a steep, or high bluff, separating from, or abruptly ending other mountains. I have seen 60 56 lands of all shapes, in every climate under the sun, but I never have seen any in outline so inconceivably beautiful as are the buttes; they rise in the centre of a vast plain as abruptly as a volcanic island towers above the ocean.

Two days ago, Mr. and Mrs. P--n and myself rose at daylight at Hickman's ranche--he and I made our toilet on a bench outside the door, where there was a tin wash-hand basin, which was in general demand--we came about the tenth and eleventh on the roaster. A bit of soap about the size of a shilling was all we could in that way get, no towel, so we used our handkerchiefs--a piece of a looking-glass lingered in an old frame, which, with a veteran hair-brush, hung at the bar of the ranche, inside--the 61 57 brush was used by all the travellers who liked it, and it seemed that squeamish Britishers only repudiated its services. I have seen an American stand before such a piece of glass, brush his hair in every imaginable shape, smooth it with his hand, and turn himself in every attitude for ten minutes at a time, then go away with a perfect conviction of his unquestionable attractions, and take a "brandy-smash, ginsling, or cock-tail;" he has then properly acquitted himself.

We started our horses about seven o'clock; a rather raw, foggy morning, "came near" raining--it was about eleven o'clock when we reached almost the summit of the range in which the Keystone lode is; the fog suddenly cleared off, and the sun brilliantly broke forth; our elevation was about three thousand feet, and we had the whole mountain range 62 58 unveiled around us; the fog still obscured the vale from sight, but about two-thirds of the beautiful, the sublime Buttes seemed to float upon a sea of frosted silver, for the sun shone upon the upper surface of the fog, and to that can I only compare the phenomenon I saw. The whole surface was white and soft, intensely glittering in the rays of the sun, the base of the Buttes and the entire plain completely concealed, while the lofty outline, and two thirds of the range, were grandly and minutely defined--it looked like an enchanted island. I only knew one in California, whose mind justly appreciated the beauty of the Buttes; how ardently I wished that one could have seen this occurrence; the rich grandeur of nature never escaped that mind.

At three P.M. we arrived at the Keystone; found my companion M--e all well, and 63 59 in the clapboard house, recently built for us--Mr. and Mrs. P--n in a small house near us.

The ride is tiresome from Hickman's ranche, about twenty-two miles, ascending the whole way; the mountains are covered, but not very densely, with oak first, and as you gain a higher elevation, the pine and redwood, a species of cedar are frequent; these make admirable planks. The oak is very dry and brittle, chiefly fit for fuel; made a large fire in an English-shaped fire-place with large oak logs--had some tea, and went to bed rather ready for it.

A lovely morning succeeded; M--e and myself had no servant, because our exchequer was too low to afford one, though we were expected to begin mining 64 60 and produce gold: so we cut wood for the fire, and having some beef, cooked a steak, which, with tea, and bread and butter, made a good breakfast; M--e beat me "into a cocked hat" (as Yankee phraseology has it) at cooking and baking, so he did all that, and I washed, and put away the dishes, &c. Our house consisted of one room, eighteen feet by twelve--the clapboards did not fit closely, so we had daylight and wind through the openings; the roof was put up well, though in heavy rain after, some came through--the whole expense of the building came to about two hundred and fifty dollars, or about fifty pounds.

After breakfast we cut an oak tree down for fuel--tough work, for the axe was blunt; then we brought a spring from the hill-side to our door, next we arranged the interior of our house, and 65 61 then, having hired a labourer to dig a foundation for a small engine and boiler, we set him at work, the engineer being down in ague and fever.

Still fine weather--the engineer is just well enough to show the way he wants the space dug out for the engine foundation--crushed up a few pounds of the quartz; it yielded well, the gold is beautifully bright, and extremely fine.

M--e and myself then arranged, or as the Americans say, "fixed up" our room--I chose a corner for an iron bedstead--he preferred a Spanish hammock which occupied one side of the place. We had a rickety table, on which at night an oil lamp, taken from a lanthorn, was elevated upon a basin turned up, two very bad stools, the four legs of which 66 62 turned inwards, instead of outwards, so the least weight on either end caused them to tip up. M--e was the amateur carpenter--above, some planks were laid across the beams, and served for a store room, reached by a short ladder--rifles and pistols were by our bedsides, and in their several stations were tea-kettles, saucepans, plates, cups and saucers, buckets, beef, hams, flour, bread, wine, &c.--the whole had much of the Robinson Crusoe appearance.

The four or five shantys which had been raised, were by acclamation of the population, numbering at least seven, proclaimed to be "Carrysville," in honour of Mrs. P--n, whose name was Caroline.

Mr. M--t--d came from Forbes town to see us--he slept on a canvas tent, folded up, before some blazing logs.

The next morning the engineer was at 67 63 work--left him and M--e to get the small steam-engine put up, and I got ready to go next day on the way to Placerville to see some lodes there.

68 64
CHAPTER V.

TO PLACERVILLE.

RAIN all night; then fine again. At daylight I mounted a horse, which P--n lent me to ride as far as Marysville, on my way to Placerville. In the earlier period of the gold fever of California, which only broke violently out in 1849, this town bore the inviting name of Hangtown, from the fact of its being the first place in American California where Judge Lynch commenced his official duties, and hung a thief. Since that time, 69 65 a refinement of feeling has suggested the change to Placerville, from the rich "diggings" found there.

The rain has rendered the road nearly impassable across the plain, and in coming to a swampy-looking spot, I reined up my horse for a minute, to consider the case. I gently urged the animal on--the poor creature obeyed, put his nose nearly to the ground, and his feet tenderly forward; we entered the water, knee-deep, there were, at least, twenty yards of it to cross; a little unevenness here and there; now close to the opposite edge--one step more, down went the horse to the girths, rolled over on one side, and lodged me in the mud and water--it was very soft, for putting one arm out to bear myself up, it sunk to the elbow; dusk had set in, and we were floundering hopelessly in the slough. I had just got myself clear of the horse, but 70 66 to get the horse as clear of the mud was the matter. A good tempered American just then came up, and while I was endeavouring to relieve the animal, he said, "Wall, stranger, I guess you're kinder mired down." I agreed in his opinion, when he dismounted, waded knee-deep into the mud-hole, and combining our strength, we got the horse out. This kindheartedness I never knew to leave the true native American miner of California; they are benevolent and generous, sudden in action, and excitable as they may be in temper.

After this I got safely to Marysville, at half-past seven, and had a delightful evening with Dr. and Mrs. B-tt.

Heard of the death of my kind friend St--y; he will be long mourned. Found letters from my family waiting for me.

Thursday I went on to Sacramento to 71 67 meet my Hebrew, the agent for the Placerville quartz property--at the Orleans hotel I met him, and agreed to leave with him by the stage, at seven o'clock.

They have a curious practice with the stages here; it takes as many as like to enter it, or as it can, from the hotel whence it starts; if full, it goes on its way; if not, it takes a cruise round the town, the driver exclaiming, at intervals, in his highest tone, "Here's your stage to Placerville in seven hours;" and in order to decide a lingerer, he looks archly at him, clasps the "lines," Anglice "reins," holds up his whip, and energetically screams out, "Only one seat, and all aboard for Placerville." When having caught his man, he makes his round for more, and having made you well acouainted with the streets, at last he really takes his departure.

72 68

The stage had to encounter some very soft places frequently, and two or three times "came near to miring." The last twenty miles are very mountainous, the road often so much on the incline, that the driver calls out, "Sit up to windward," and every one scrambles to the high side of the vehicle; I have seen a wheel actually off the ground, and brought to it again by "sitting to windward;" the driver lighting his cigar at the time.

On the road to Placerville, several very rich "placeres," or "diggings" are passed; they begin just as the road enters the mountains. Carson's ravine first presents its riches; then Mud, Diamond-springs, and Coon-hollow, an abbreviation of Racoon; at Carson's, the gold is coarse, and is caught by running the water and earth through a long trough, 73 69 with pieces nailed across it on the inside, forming elevated edges; at stated distances, these edges arrest the heavier substances, but the lighter are washed away; the gold here is taken from a ravine.

At Mud and Diamond-springs the very surface-earth gives large quantities of gold; it is raked up in ridges, every man's claim being separated from his neighbour's by a narrow path, such as divides garden-beds of vegetables. When the rain comes, it is washed in rockers, toms, sluices, and every imaginable contrivance for saving the metal; a pan of this will yield ten and a half cents, or five-pence halfpenny; many hundred pans are washed by one rocker, and many more than that by each other contrivance in one day.

At Placerville by four P.M., my Hebrew 74 70 put me up in his shop; he got dinner ready, beef-steak and coffee; our plates were laid on the counter, amongst woollen frocks, shirts, stockings, boots, trousers, jewelry, &c.; we afterwards slept in the shop. I had a comfortable corner, my Hebrew opposite to me. Breakfasted next morning at the counter again.

Then to see the lodes, one close to the town; a large lode, apparently very good; the quartz all yielded well, but not opened enough to decide upon its extent; very hard, much iron in it. The other lode is soft, delicate quartz, and yields a fair amount of very fine, bright gold. Neither lode is sufficiently opened to judge of the extent.

75 71
CHAPTER VI.

FEBRUARY.--PLACERVILLE.

A SHARP white frost, succeeded by a very warm day. Placerville is built entirely of wood; like all these towns, its existence depends altogether upon the continuance of the yield in the diggings near; the population amounts, including that of the surrounding miners, to upwards of three thousand, It boasts a dissolute, swearing community; and though the quartz appears to be good, that will scarcely compensate for these staring disqualifications. 76 72 The American from the "backwoods" cannot feel that he is a bore to any one; on the contrary, he thinks he can entertain him by a long history of his own biography, especially that part of it which has been subjected to disease of any kind; this disposition to speak of self pervades even better classes than the backwoodsman, in the United States. Breakfasted on the counter.

The "special message" of the new Governor, Mr. B--r, appeared in the paper of to-day. A comprehensive, plausible paper enough; meaning, of course, nothing, like all such papers.

"Colonel" W--r elected "Senator for Congress;" he represents the democratic party, a party which one day will shiver the bonds that now hold together a magnificent republic.

The "Daily Alta California" of this 77 73 day has in it the trial of a man who deliberately shot another dead; and of another, who rushed into the bar-room of a saloon, and laid open a man's throat who was standing there; both, of course, were justified in the judgment of a jury, which never looks to the law, but only to the question touching the apparent deserts of the injured party. It is not whether he killed a man or did not; it is whether they think he had a right to kill, or had not! "It is a great country."

Went to see "'Coon-hollow." The amount of labour here is wonderful; the "hollow" much resembles in size and shape the "Devil's Punch-bowl" in Hampshire (England); the hollow itself is completely dug over to the depth of several feet, and the surrounding hills are perforated up and down their sides, giving them the appearance of large 78 74 pigeon-houses so far. The earth here is very largely filled with extremely fine gold; it still continues to yield a rich return, nevertheless very few of the great number of Americans who work in these or any other of the "diggings," save any money of consequence; they either spend it in the gambling or drinking saloon, or otherwise lose it in some speculative enterprise. No American can quietly enjoy his earnings in the calm society of his family--he must have excitement, even if it is the excitement of ruin, for with him depression is unconstitutional; if he is asked why he does not save for his children? he replies, "They must do as I have done--push through the world;" so the father has often been the master of millions, only to see his son drive a mule-team. The line of any family in the United States is scarcely, if at all, 79 75 discernible, after three or four generations.

Left Placerville by the stage for Sacramento by another road; it was bad enough, rattling over rocks, stumps, and every road obstruction which the enterprise of a Yankee driver, and physical endurance of his passengers could surmount. The cry of "Sit to windward," often was very proper, as the vehicle seemed ready to slide from the inclined plane into the ravine below; as we went along, the thing bumped over a ditch which brings the water from Weber-creek, a distance of fourteen miles. This water is brought to supply the wants of the miners, who otherwise could not wash the earth and get the gold from it; they each have a hose, or spout, to convey the water to their particular position, and pay so much an inch per diem for it; frequently 80 76 a dollar an inch is charged, never less than half-a-dollar; and this will be the most lucrative of all speculations, so long as the "diggings" shall last. This branch of gain is so good, that the people here are talking of bringing a part of the American river in; if so, it will be brought round the mountains, a distance of thirty-two miles. Water has been brought in California over more difficult ground; indeed, the Americans handle these large streams pretty much as easily as a lady handles the tea-pot at the breakfast-table. As the vehicle rattled along, one wheel struck an oak tree, and bent the hinder axle-tree--a trifle--on we go; the road very heavy now, we have reached the plains. In Sacramento by half-past three. Hot bath, clean clothes, and dinner.

Invited by Mr. C--l to attend an 81 77 evening party dansante. Went, of course, in order to see the e´lite of Sacramento; the rooms could fairly claim two or three attractive faces, but the American ladies are wanting in figure; they too much resemble the mould of their clipper-ships, very straight and flat lines. They dance polkas and quadrilles, the ladies calling across the set to those opposite; loud laughter when anything witty was said; and romping rather than dancing. It reminded me of a servants' new-year's merry-making in England.

Every American is a politician. Here I find them mad about the affair of the British ship "Express" firing at the "Prometheus." I went to a hardware shop for some article, and the man no sooner recognised my nationality, than he said, "Woll, Mister, your Queen is bound to send that `Express' captain 82 78 away, I guess." I asked for what I wanted. He continued, "If she don't, our President have got to take Canada, sure;" continuing to state my wants, instead of my views of the "Express" case, he turned me over, as hopeless, to his foreman, who evidently felt more about dollars and cents, than of the attack upon the "glorious stars and stripes" on board the "Prometheus."

Louis Napoleon has given great offence to the American people, by becoming an emperor; they are "riled" at France throwing off the rough coat of a Republic in exchange for the velvet of a Monarchy.

Another select party this evening; everything as before, excepting that one "gentleman" there had shot the husband of his present wife, deliberately, one day. Such people are well received in California!

83 79

Walked with Mr. B--e to see the farm he is fencing in, and then to the cholera country--that disease, for a short period, was a dreadful scourge here.

The river steamers again in opposition; this is done only to force the richer to buy off the poorer; but the cry is, "No monopoly, and low fares." Each party employs "runners," as they call the men who stand still, and mutually abuse each other's steamer; if they are to be believed, the "boilers are all bursting," the "vessels rotten," and the "beds full of vermin."

A brilliant morning, cold north wind.

At seven, on board a small steamer, the "Fashion," going to Marysville. A monstrous dirty and bad boat. When near Marysville, the steam escaped out of the 84 80 boiler so much, that the vessel was stuck into the bushes till the boiler was cobbled up, when we went slowly on to Marysville. Got there at a late hour; found letters from home, none from the directors.

Two events have occurred this day, namely, the election of a judge, and the arrival of a huge church-bell from New York. The winning electors are celebrating their victory by marching after a drum and fife into every drinking saloon; and the reverend functionaries of the church to which the bell has been sent, are furiously ringing it in unison with the discharge of fire-arms around. Passed the evening with Dr. and Mrs. B--tt, a real pleasure.

From the San Francisco papers we learn that a man had seduced the daughter of a woman residing there. He came one day to call on the mother, by 85 81 invitation; she asked him if he intended to marry her daughter? He evaded the question; upon which she instantly shot him. He lingered a few days, but just before he died he married the girl in the presence of the mother, who appeared, as the newspapers say, "affected considerable." The murderess was never called to account for this, but walked about the streets as if she had performed an exemplary duty.

I am at the Tremont hotel, in Marysville; the ninth of February, and the sun is so powerfully shining on the thick plank roof and walls, that I am obliged to sit with the door and window open.

The day, Sunday, has begun by a crowd of idle Americans, grown-up young men, amusing themselves by tying tin pots to the tails of several dogs, and then frightening them away, hooting after 86 82 them. A mayor and corporation reside in this town, but all they do is to institute and collect taxes; they have not sufficient moral courage to prevent the enlightened citizens from worrying dogs on Sunday.

In the evening, billiard rooms and gambling saloons in "full blast"--in the former, those not playing line the benches on each side the tables, and from thence completely saturate the floor with the tobacco-juice which they discharge upon it: they are shocking dirty citizens.

Passed the evening with Dr. and Mrs. B--tt, which compensated for the outside nuisances.

Still lovely weather--after breakfast got P--n's horse and left for the Keystone. Travelled by the road on the 87 83 bank of the Feather river, good and free from mud-holes. On this river, there are now many farms fenced in and ploughed; the soil just here is very fertile--not so on the plains, there it is generally very gravelly. I conversed with many of the farmers; they every one would sell, wanting to go to the diggings; the farm does not produce fast enough; and though the diggings may not, yet there is the daily excitement so much desired by the American. About fifteen miles from Marysville, I rejoined the usual road to the Keystone. Got as far as the Honeut ranche, where I stopped for the night; put a mattrass on two benches, close by the stove, and slept comfortably--a shocking cold in my head, feverish, &c. Nevertheless, the next morning I got up, having derived apparently much benefit from 88 84 being half-baked by the heat of the stove all night. Breakfasted, and on horseback for the Keystone--in this climate during the fine weather of winter, or in the cool of the autumn and spring, a ride of fifty miles is scarcely felt. On my way I turned off to Natchez, a small, dirty place, shantys and tents, with the American flag flying in half-a-dozen places--if there were but a pig-stye, I believe the national flag would be hoisted over it. There have been good "diggings" at Natchez, and it once boasted its gambling and drinking saloons. Now it has gone the way of all these locations as soon as the gold-washers have left the ground. A few stragglers, contented to get three dollors per diem, remain.

Went on to Hansonville, to see the quartz mill erected there, by Colonel 89 85 H--n. Colonels, and other military designations, so often appear, that the phenomena should be explained. When any person is elected to be the Governor of a State, in the United States, he can appoint within his government generals of militia, and four "aids" for himself; these generals and "aids" he selects from the population of the state; the generals rank as such; the "aids" have the rank of "colonels of cavalry" in the United States army. Having once borne the title they always retain it; if one resigns, another general or colonel is created; majors and captains also abound; they are militiamen, ex-captains of steamers, coasters, river barges, &c. It is no uncommon occurrence to see a gallant general or colonel advocating, as a barrister, the case of some client, before the judges of the courts.

90 86

The colonel's crushing mill is apparently tolerably well put together, but it is, I think, placed too near the stream of the Honeut, which rises high, and is very rapid in the wet season, as all these mountain streams are; I should fear the consequences of a flood; it is a water-mill, the wheel eighteen feet diameter, four feet in breadth, nine stamps, three hundred pounds each. The mill and quartz were for sale, and the latter, of course, was something superlatively good; everything is for sale when an American is the owner--he looks for a "trade" with every one.

Having dined with the "colonel," I proceeded on by the Indian trail to the Keystone. Upon the summit of a high mountain, I suddenly met a man travelling with English and American newspapers for sale; probably where never 91 87 before they had reached; I bought an "Illustrated London News," "The Times" and "New York Tribune" of late dates. The first of these papers is very eagerly bought throughout California, and varying in price from fifty cents to a dollar.

Got to the Keystone at four in the afternoon. H--y had arrived, having resigned his situation, which he held under a market gardener near Sacramento; he had not received remittances which had been forwarded, and came "very near starving," for his employer did not pay him. I had known his family well in a British colony.

At the Keystone; a lovely morning. Neither M--e nor H--y being returned, I hunted up the commissariat stores, laid the breakfast things, tried to cut a 92 88 beefsteak, knife too blunt, so turned to the remains of a ham, and had breakfast, of fried slices from it, and two roasted potatoes.

The engineer is putting up the small engine I bought, in hopes of doing some little during the period that must elapse before the other can arrive; at all events, we can test the Keystone lode. He says that he hopes the "trap" will start next week--that it can not, for many necessary things are not here yet; he is just come to me with an ague fit threatening--gave him some medicine for the night, and an enlarged dose of castor oil, because, on entering my room, he spat his tobacco on my clean boards. M--e and H--y came home.

The mornings begin to threaten rain again. M--e and H--y got the breakfast 93 89 ready; beefsteak, fried ham, potatoes, bread made by M--e, and tea--no milk within miles of us.

Engineer at work again--complained of the castor oil, told him why he got such a dose. M--tt--d came from Forbes town, to show me a quartz lode--it is scarcely visible. He dined and went back again.

H--y cuts firewood for four dollars per load. P--n has an attack of erysipelas, a doctor says it will be slight. Two blue pills to the engineer--evening fine, but a cloudy, cold night--three oak logs blazing all night.

Rain all day, threatening. P--n's face very much swollen, no other bad symptom. The engineer has had no return of the ague; he is taking two grains of quinine every three hours during the day.

94 90

G--d--n walling in the boiler, and the rollers are in their places--we shall wait now for pipes.

H--y cutting firewood, M--e cooking, I carpentering, that is, I am turning the legs of the stools outwards, which M--e turned inwards--we called the stools his traps.

Heavy rain all night, but now very fine, with a cool north-west wind. P--n better; he will let his horse run loose, so this morning the creature cannot be found--heavy rain. The perseverance of the ant is anxiously shown here; they will insist upon travelling a great distance to run up a cedar close to the house; they have been repeatedly stopped by fire, and hot wood ashes, but on they come, undaunted.

95 91

The sixteenth, a fine cool day, after the rain of yesterday.

M--e to Marysville, to hurry up some things wanted by the engineer.

A Mr. N--ch--n, president of the "Smith O'Brien" Quartz-crushing Company, came to me about putting a water-mill on their lode. What a title for a company! quite enough for a man to bear it. I am to have a horse or mule sent for me, and then go to look at it.

Some quartz from a supposed lode was brought in by H--y; the first few ounces showed nothing, the next presented a fine show of gold. The want of some copper pipes will delay the engine in its start.

A heavy fog, terminating in rain, 96 92 distinguished the seventeenth till noon, when the sun broke brilliantly through.

At breakfast, Mr. N--ch--n and Mr. M--t--l, members of the "Smith O'Brien" company, came in, bringing with them a mule for me--a breakfast is quickly dispatched in mining life, because there are not many luxuries to linger over, and other things to look after. Got on the mule, and rode with the Smith O'Briens to see their lode, as well as one called the "Shakespeare." In going to these lodes, we descended so steep a mountain, that the mules we rode literally were on their haunches all the way down; this descent continues for at least a mile and a half.

The face of this portion of the country is strangely thrown together; masses seem to rise up against masses, only separated by a darkly-shaded abyss, across 97 93 which they sternly frowned at each other.

Having accomplished the descent, I found myself upon the bank of the Feather river, which rushes in foaming haste over its bed of black slate rocks, whose sharp edges rise in ridges, obstructing its impetuous course. At the edge of the water there were four Indians groping for gold amongst the crevices of the uncovered rocks; one was picking it out with the point of a clasp-knife, the other used an old iron spoon, and with these implements they had already obtained at least a dollar's-worth of flake gold.

The "Smith O'Brien" lode I thought of no value, the "Shakespeare" appeared to be good--this lode was situated where it cropped out on a bold, rocky peninsula, round which the noble stream rushed in the grandest confusion, 98 94 throwing its spray from rock to rock as the current was dashed to atoms in its raging career. I stood upon the brow, almost infatuated with this engaging scene, till my American friends gave me a hint that "time was money," in California; so we remounted our mules, and by taking our ascent in zig-zag course, we gradually regained the summit, I being fully convinced that when-ever machinery was placed upon either of these lodes, nothing but the flood of the Feather river would remove it.

On this side, the mountains are well-clothed with shrubs, oak, and pine, the soil red and gravelly; on the other, far as I could see, the face of the country is bare and sterile, the surface one forbidding mountainous expanse of a grey colour. The Indians on that side are said to be very untameable, and it has been 99 95 very little searched; probably their uninviting reputation has repelled enterprise in this direction. From its appearance I am satisfied it would yield a good metallic remuneration.

Rode back through Forbes town, a place considered more dissolute than any in the state; it has about fifteen hundred inhabitants, including the population of the surrounding diggings--these have proved extremely rich. Got home to a late dinner. H--y had a good beef-steak ready, with baked potatoes. A lovely night.

This morning H--y began to cut his wood--he won't make wages by his work; I was carpentering in the house.

The Yuba river Indians came to the Indian ranche near the Keystone, and drove the latter away, because they were 100 96 friendly with the white men; some seventy Americans have crossed the Yuba to destroy the ranche of these in return, so there will be a fight perhaps.

Went to look at the lode; found P--n and two others digging to strike the lode in another place; half their time is lost in searching for specimens amongst the quartz gravel which they throw up, and when they find any little stone, showing a pin's point of gold, they are in raptures, and leave work for the day.

A fine night, and no wind.

The engineer is still going on with the engine, but nothing can be done till the copper pipes come; in California, the tradesmen care very little whether they oblige the purchaser or not; if you say, "I shall get my work elsewhere," the cool reply is, "Well, I guess you can."

H--y crushed up a few small pieces 101 97 of quartz from the lode, and it gave a good yield of gold.

My carpentering talent has completed the kitchen dresser; the kitchen being one corner of the room near the fire-place; all the cooking and dish-washing now goes on in this corner, instead of being performed on our drawing-room table.

Some hail fell at noon.

P--n brought us some bread he made himself; there is a rivalry between him and M--e in the baking business.

"DIGGINGS ON THE MIDDLE FORK.--The miners at Grey Eagle city, Big Bar, and Spanish Bar, on the above river, are doing better than at any previous time this season. The gold found at the former place is coarse, and it is not unusual for hundreds of dollars to be washed from a single panful of dirt. Many of the claims at Murderer's Bar have been overflowed 102 98 until recently; but pumps of great power have now been obtained, and the leads are drained so effectually that the miners are enabled to save the minutest particles of gold. Many who left the river a week or two since for the dry diggings in the ravines and gulches between the Middle and North Forks, have staked out their claims, built their log-houses, and commenced throwing up dirt to wash when the rains set in."

This notice has appeared in one of the papers; the "digging" community here are in a high state of excitement in consequence, and very probably many will "vamose"--in other words, will leave.

I washed two shirts; made no bad work of it, but the rubbing on the knuckles is a little severe for the amateur hand. Altogether, our room has a decided Robinson Crusoe character, only we have no dog, 103 99 cat, parrot or goat; if we had the latter, we should certainly eat it by the bye. I shall now undertake to cure the rickets with which the table has been afflicted from its infancy. When H--y and myself are both writing on opposite sides, we balance it very fairly; but if either rises, that side is weighed down by the weight on the other, and the pen takes a curious excursion about the paper, till the descent of the table top is completed.

News has come that the American party who went out after the Yuba Indians, caught and hung two who confessed their criminality, and another who made no confession, but accused other Indians. A little absence of proof is not an obstacle to the execution of an Indian; one fact, however, is sure--namely, that the Indians cannot be at all trusted; and it is now ascertained that when they are closely charged with a 104 100 murder or theft, they have always an old man to present as the murderer or thief.

The engine and machinery are up, but waiting for steam pipes. The Americans are very jealous of their franchise; the following appeared to-day:--

"As to the rights of citizenship, and the qualifications to vote, the following general answers may be relied on as correct.

"A legal citizen must reside in the State six months before he can vote. If he is an emigrant, his citizenship commences from the day on which he left his domicile in any other State; and although there has been some dispute on this point, the opinion of the Attorney-General is considered decisive in its favour. He must reside in the county thirty days in order to vote for county officers.

"The inquiry whether the neglect of a citizen to pay his poll-tax disqualifies him 105 101 from voting, is, by common consent, acknowledged to be that it does not. The law says that no man shall vote, or be allowed to sue in a court of justice, unless he has paid his poll-tax; but the Constitution, which is the superior government of the land, says that all free white naturalized citizens shall be entitled to vote without restriction. This settles the question, in our opinion, that whether a man has paid his poll-tax or no, he is free to vote at any election.

"A person can vote for State officers at any poll he may be at in the State; for county officers, at any poll in the county; and for precinct officers, at any poll in that township."

While out this afternoon examining a ravine, being desirous of ascertaining whether the quartz lode crossed it or not, I heard not far off, and approaching, 106 102 barking of dogs, hideous yells and screams; D--k, who was with me, thought the Indians were upon us. We both got behind some manzaneta bushes, and looked to the percussion caps of our rifles, for no one thinks now of moving without these or revolvers; here we awaited whatever it might be that was advancing; presently a cayota came by at speed, close after it a tribe of the merriest yelping mongrel curs that ever disgraced the canine creation, following these came the Indians, armed with their bows and arrows; we saw then that the whole was but a hunting affair.

I never saw so unearthly a race; they were greatly excited, and possibly looked more demoniacal than usually they did; short in stature, but wiry and slight figures, they threaded their way through the bushes with extraordinary rapidity; no raiment encumbered their limbs, but they all had 107 103 feathers of various colours stuck through their hair. Some of them recognised D--k, but they were too eagerly bent on the chase to stop for a moment--indeed, if one did, it was only to look at the rifles we carried.

Another opening has been made on the lode; the quartz, which is much decomposed, yields better than the first which was got out, so far as it has been tested.

On opening the door at daylight this morning, I saw two cayotas close to the house; they were off before I could get my rifle out.

The men working on the lode brought me some quartz which they thought wondrous rich, there being a good deal of the sulphate of iron about it; a little 108 104 nitric acid dissipated all their expectations; the quartz has gold in it nevertheless.

Declined the "Shakespeare" and "Smith O'Brien" lodes; to put machinery there would be to leave it there for ever, whether the quartz was good or bad.

Another party of Indians came by, dressed up with feathers in their hair; I never encourage these savages; they come either to steal or beg, and are treacherous always.

What splendid weather! H--y and myself are sitting at dinner, the door open, and fire nearly out. H--y is not so good a cook as is M--e; P--n the best baker.

The mornings are cool, but the instant the sun appears above the trees on the ridge behind our house, the temperature is delightful.

Harassed by the non-arrival of the 109 105 things wanted to complete the engine--it takes a fortune to pay for sending messengers backwards and forwards; the post-office is at a discount, there is no certainty of a letter reaching its intended destination by this channel; this insecurity clearly arises, not, as some say, from dishonesty, but solely from the practice of changing every postmaster, clerk, letter-sorter, and every individual employed in the office whenever a change of governor takes place; not only are these changed, but the post-office itself is made to feel the political commotion. I have known in three years the post-office in three situations; first it stood in a very appropriate situation, but the postmaster built an extensive range of rooms not far from it; he could not by law let his own property to the government, therefore it appeared as that of his son, who was induced to let the rooms to his 110 106 father, on the part of the government, for the trifling consideration of two thousand dollars per month (four hundred pounds). The election took place, and another general flight from and of the post-office followed; it went from one side of Portsmouth Square to another of the same square, although everything had to be "fixed up" afresh; the consequence of all this is, that no one in the office has any proper knowledge of his duty; so letters go anywhere they should not go, and sometimes do not go at all. A curious practice has grown out of this want of system; some shrewd business men observed this want of ability in the post-office, and immediately set about finding a remedy, which, while it benefitted the public, would also remunerate the authors of it; they established what they termed an "Express;" they organised stations, 111 107 not only throughout California, but also in the United States on the Atlantic; they enlisted messengers to travel the country, received and sent letters, parcels' treasure, and, in short, became carriers of every thing, delivering letters especially with infinitely greater accuracy and dispatch than was ever known to distinguish the post-office. The Express offices were so much employed to the prejudice of the post-office revenue, that the district attorney (equal to a law officer of the crown) commenced a suit against the proprietors; but this was met with so much anger on the part of the people, that proceedings were withdrawn, and since that time the business of the Express offices has been amazingly enlarged, and very deservedly so, from the fidelity with which they perform their engagements with the public. It is a fact, that the steamer carrying the 112 108 United States mail under a government contract, never leaves New York or San Francisco without having also on board the letter-bags of the several Express offices. The amount of manifested gold sent home by the steamer to Panama every fortnight generally exceeds two millions of dollars, and it is with justice computed that not less than a third as much more is carried home about the persons of the passengers.

How lovely the temperature and weather has been now for nearly seven weeks in the middle of winter; at this time the most fretful invalid could not find fault.

Walked to a neighbouring Indian ranche with H--y, looking for deer. En passant, he is far too lazy for California life; in these excursions he often is disposed to sit down and admire the view, which never attracts his notice when not under 113 109 exertion himself; he also, when contemplating the landscape, indulges in what is courteously called singing.

An old, inoffensive, and industrious emigrant, who washed for gold in the week-days, and expounded Scripture, with, at least, a good intent, on Sundays, was found murdered not far from Forbes' Town; he was pierced with several arrows, and no other wound about him. The people have got two Indians on suspicion for trial; these are defended by an American, called "Colonel P--t--e," who, for some reasons, gives all the protection he possibly can to the Indians; if these two Indians are found guilty, it is not at all improbable that the colonel may be hung with them, for a mob in the diggings will act very summarily.

I have had a small lean-to built at the end of the house, so now I have a private 114 110 place to dress in; it is about eight feet by six. The teamster who promised to bring the pipes, &c. for the steam-engine, found another job, so left them behind. Just like these people; no reliance can be placed in them, when a few dollars and cents become the object.

115 111
CHAPTER VI.

MARCH.

THE first of March comes in with snow, sleet, and rain, by turns. Just the weather to drive the deer, grisly bears, and such other animals to the lower mountain ranges; so, accompanied by D--k, I took my rifle, and off we went "hunting," Anglice`, shooting. We are tired of beef, and want venison; D--k had two shots, one a fair chance, but he missed both.

Very few of the Americans can shoot game when flying and running; indeed, 116 112 their rifle is not calculated to be used without a rest; it is very long and heavy, even with a rest. I have seen them certainly half-a-minute taking aim; then, if not interrupted, they strike the object generally with precision. In this manner I saw P--n cut the head off a quail with a ball; and another of our own party shot a squirrel through the head, both having previously stated where the ball would strike; but I do not think their firing generally would equal that of our riflemen, whom I have seen strike either the bull's-eye, or close to it in the target, almost every shot, at three hundred yards, firing quickly from the shoulder, without a rest; the advantage certainly must be on the side of him who fires with rapidity and precision.

General Ross, who was killed before Baltimore in the last war with America, 117 113 fell a victim to this clandestine way of taking life; it may not be generally known how he was killed, but the following account was given to me by an American gentleman, Mr. Osborne, who resided in Baltimore at the time, and whose good feeling reprobates desultory warfare. Mr. Osborne stated to me that three lads, the eldest only sixteen years of age, from curiosity went out after the retreat of the Americans into the city to see the soldiers; the eldest carried a rifle (as every American lad does as soon as he can--he may almost be said to be born with a rifle in his hand); but they crept along amongst the brushwood, fearing to be taken prisoners. They soon heard the tramp of horses advancing, and concealing themselves, they saw three officers riding up an open space in the wood--in short, an old road These officers were General 118 114 Ross, Admiral Sir G. Cockburn, and the Colonel Mullins, of New Orleans fame; there was a dispute as to whether the rifle should be fired or not; they rode on, it was determined to fire, and the general fell. The lads got away into Baltimore immediately; but, I was told, quite frightened at what they had done, until applauded for doing it.

Came in wet and tired, so I set about "fixing up" my new room--rather tedious work.

In the evening G--d--n came in. Our neighbours are good, kind-hearted men, uneducated, and without personal resources; so they come to us every now and then, when the weather prevents them from "hunting" or working.

G--d--n talked about genealogy very like a republican; but when I gave him a few instances of the manner in which, through genealogical records, vast 119 115 properties had been gained, he became as good an aristocrat as I ever remember to have seen.

Having worked at lining the sides of my room with "muslin," in English, a rather coarse linen, and also upon a side-table, I reviewed my performances; the lining put on very badly--the table rather creditable for an amateur artificer. The rain makes a forest-mountain life rather uncomfortable, when we have to cut and bring in our own firewood--in fact, be our own servants; the logs of oak are so heavy, and the ground now so soft, that we are obliged to roll them down the hill to the house; if one happens to miss the place, it proceeds with precipitation into a ravine, and is lost for ever to us. It is well that the house has been built a foot off the ground, for a perfect flood is rushing under it, and has converted the land in front into a morass.

120 116

We are all waiting for the things which have been so long since sent for; but for this, the engine would have been at work. Small as it is, the quartz might, at least, have been tested.

I received a curious but kind letter from a Mr. S--th--ll; it appears that he is at the head of an association, whose object is the formation of a collection of the "ornate, innate, and animate" productions of California. He writes to me requesting to know if I think His Royal Highness the Prince Albert would consent to be the patron; but he informs me that he has also addressed the prince on the subject.

Mr. S--th-ll seems to be a very flighty, well-meaning man--by the bye, he proposes to send me a copy of the book he is now writing, as a king of accompaniment to the collection.

121 117

There has been almost continued heavy rain for some days.

The party who went out to take the Indians, whom it was supposed were sheltered by "Colonel" P--t--e, after having committed a murder, have returned, bringing with them the Indians accused, both of whom are to be tried to-night in Forbes Town--in other words, they are to be hung.

H--y gone to Forbes' Town for beef this morning; came home early with a quarter strapped on the saddle, he leading the horse. Then he began baking and cooking; but the rain came down the chimney, and nearly put the fire out; so in spite of the rain, we got some clapboards up, and created a sloping cover, which kept the rain out sufficiently to enable us to resume the culinary duties, the suspension of which threatened the loss of our dinner.

122 118

This weather "riles" our Yankee friends here very much; they want the excitement of work, hunting a deer, hanging an Indian, or lynching a Sydney convict; as it is, they come loafing about, to amuse themselves at any one's expense; one of ours here is an unmitigated bore, so this day I persuaded him that he was very ill, gave him some medicine, and told him not to get his feet wet by any means; so he went home. I thought I had got rid of him; ten minutes afterwards he re-entered, took his seat by the fire, and coolly said, "Well, I guess I like this best, so I got the Indian-rubbers to keep my feet kinder dry, and I thought I'd come again," and we had him for some hours.

The wind dislodged the chimney-top; the rain monstrous heavy at the same time, and the fire was quite put out, the 123 119 fire-place exhibiting only some charred wood, ashes, and mud; our spirits rose with the occasion, and H--y assisting me, we got another cover over; but then we had no dry wood, not a spark could we raise; happily, I had some spirits of wine, and one of Jones' Etnas, so we boiled some water, had tea, with bread and butter, and a slice of cold ham--tolerably well off, after all.

Our American in the Indian-rubbers, feeling our distress, rose, trotted away, and soon after returned with a quantity of dry pine and oak split up, with which we soon made a good fire again, and he left us for the night. Raining in torrents.

The eighth of March cold, cloudy, and sleet. Hearing that a waggon had come to the neighbouring ranche, P--n walked 124 120 there with me, hoping that some of the engine "fixings" had been brought up; but nothing was there--a great disappointment; though, with all this rain, I do not see how anything is to cross the plain.

Went out with P--n and D--k to look for a deer; after walking about the mountains for three hours, P--n shot a wild pigeon, a fine plump bird, about the size of a teal; saw nothing else.

At sunset, a gale from the southward; and at bed-time a hurricane, with a deluge of rain. It has been what ladies call a "fearful night"--a pine, two hundred feet high, fell with a tremendous crash, not more than twenty yards clear of the house; had the wind been but a point or two different, the tree would have smashed our mansion into a "cocked hat." Why a cocked-hat is to describe a shapeless 125 121 mass I cannot say, and therefore leave the explanation to our ingenious transatlantic friends; the ill-fixed chimneycover also blew off, and being blown along the roof, made us believe the whole was being removed by the wind, so we both quietly waited the catastrophe, whatever it might be, but nothing more happened.

The day is so cold, wild, wet, and the weather threatening to remain so, that H--y and myself sallied out to bring in a large supply of wood, then we put an empty flour-barrel over the chimney-top, having cut holes all round it to let the smoke out--this invention answered the purpose well, and I beg to advertise its celebrity here.

After breakfast, more for amusement than anything else, I pounded up one pound of the Keystone quartz, put the 126 122 sand into a small amalgamator, and worked it for a few minutes--when the quicksilver was retorted, it left gold to the amount of eighteen cents in the retort--this would be three hundred and sixty dollars to the ton--a yield never known throughout.

P--n sent us the pigeon he shot, split and grilled it for breakfast, and monstrous nice it was.

Snow fell heavily through the night, and we felt the inconvenience of being in a clapboard house; wind and snow came in very liberally. After breakfast H--y and myself brought in another large supply of firewood in order to keep up a dry stock of it.

Our barrel chimney top maintains its position very creditably. We hear that Marysville is flooded--nothing more likely for it stands on low ground, 127 123 exactly at the junction of the Feather and Yuba rivers, both which the rain has swollen, and when the snow melts, the flood will be worse still. Passed three pounds of crushed quartz through the amalgamator, the results confirmed my opinion of the quartz, but P--n accidentally upset the evaporating pan, and I lost the gold.

Snow all day, and at bed-time, a comfortless night; thank Heaven we have dry beds, a good fire and shelter, the last, however, none of the best.

The snow fell all night, and is now falling (the eleventh).

Sitting at breakfast this morning a "holloa" was heard in the mountains opposite; what a desolating feeling attends an unanswered call of the wanderer in the forest! how instantly and mercilessly thrown upon his own 128 124 resources to relieve him from exhausted strength, and threatened starvation. On this occasion, however, there was immediate assurance of help at hand. In the forest none can known the origin of the call, but the one who wants assistance, therefore from the three or four shanties, called Carrysville, out started five "good men and true," gave a cheering reply to the "holloa" and hurried on in its direction, each armed either with a rifle or with a revolver; the voice was evidently from a person across the deep ravine which separated the mountain on which we were from another; placing us, up and down, each, about a mile and a half apart, but in an "air line" very much closer, the snow was falling heavily and obstructed our distant view--our call became more distinct, delivered with less exertion 129 125 and a moment more placed us in sight of St--e, one of our own miners, who had gone out to look for a deer. He had been successful, and having shot the deer high up on the mountain, found no difficulty in dragging the dead animal to the foot of it over the snow; arriving there with his prize, he was quite unable to advance farther without help, whence the origin of his call, in hopes of being within hearing range.

It was a beautiful creature; S--e had shot it through the head; it was not even disfigured by scarcely a blood-stain. We stood for some little time involuntarily giving the tribute of admiration to its symmetrical proportions; then we proceeded to contrive the easiest method of conveying it to our houses; to carry it was the first endeavour, so each took a limb and one the head: off we went up 130 126 the side of a hill upon an ascent of about seventy-five degrees; scarcely had we climbed a hundred yards, than the whole party slipped down to the ravine again. Another plan was then proposed, a stick was lashed to the head and neck, to this each person tied their handkerchiefs; in this manner, four were pulling together, like horses abreast, two and two, the other kept the carcase clear of the bodies of trees, &c., by which the procession passed.

Adopting this happy device, we soon triumphantly reached Carrysville, and the next operation was the division; this was very liberally carried out, and for three days our dinners were comparatively aldermanic.

Curiously enough, not an hour after our arrival had taken place, D--k, who also had gone upon a similar errand, 131 127 was seen coming in with a fawn, which he also had shot, hanging round his neck and shoulders. The first that was brought in weighed one hundred and fifty-seven pounds of available meat, the other much less, being a fawn of the past summer only.

The snow suspends all work, and will certainly delay the arrival of the long-ordered things wanted for the engine.

Some cuyotas came last night, probably attracted by the smell of the freshly-killed deer, and finding nothing within their reach, but the skins which were laid out on some planks to dry, ate some, and tore what they left in pieces.

Snow falling heavily again. H--y has taken to singing and whistling, which will at least scare away the cuyotas and Indians.

132 128

A Dr. B--th--w has frequently brought me some quartz to test for him; doing so, has given me amusement during these long intervals of snow; he must not work those lodes--they will not pay, under the existing rate of wages.

From the summit of the mountain behind our location, the coast range can be distinctly seen towering above, and bounding the intervening plain; the lathe, now completely flooded, has the appearance of an immense inland sea; report says that hundreds of cattle have been drowned in consequence of these continued rains, and snow melting on the mountains, by which the rivers so suddenly overflow their banks.

The fourteenth, Sunday, rain falling in torrents. How wretchedly this day is 133 129 always passed in California; if in San Francisco, services certainly, and even open-air preaching, in unison with bull-fights, cock-fighting, racing, saloons, and theatres; if in the mountains, rifle practice, or "loafing" from house to house, so no one is secure against intrusion.

Bed-time; tremendous rain, but we have a glorious fire to look at.

News has just arived that the plains can only, and with great difficulty, be crossed on horseback.

P--n brought to me one pound ten ounces of the earth taken promiscuously from the lode. It produced exactly four grains of gold, which is something more than six cents and a half to the pound, or one hundred and thirty-five dollars to the ton. This earth very much resembles red ochre, and lies exactly in the 134 130 centre of the lode; the run is about three inches broad, and the quartz on each side is from eighteen inches to two feet thick! it was this red earth that I wished to work up with the small engine.

This afternoon, (the fifteenth) the weather began to clear up, and for the second time in fifteen days, the coast range of mountains were in sight; the wet weather in the mountains makes it tiresome, especially when unable to have a servant because people at home won't buy shares.

We hear that the "leve`e" or dyke at Sacramento has given way, and that the people were obliged to fly to their upper rooms, there being four feet water in the streets. Some good will come out of this; the place was swarming with rats, of which pest the great majority are now killed.

135 131

The rain seems to have left us; and considering what has fallen, I think there cannot be much more to come.

Got up early, and with D--k went to look for deer, or any game, for we are all tired of eating beef hardly fit for hounds. After traversing the hills for three hours without seeing anything more than the traces of deer, we both returned tired and hungry.

M--e went away before the bad weather set in, and we have not heard of him since; we are not quite comfortable about him.

M--tl--d came over from Forbes' Town, and brought me a large packet of letters from England. The California quartz rising in estimation; shares in demand; five thousand pounds I am to be empowered to draw for "on the directors;" this is something, but it will go a very 136 132 little way in Californian mining, even if any one will cash a bill on the "A.C.G.M. Company Directory," where a dollar will not do more than will a shilling in England; M--tl--d's "Hillside" quartz-lode is not good for much, if I may judge from that which I have tried for him.

Wrote to P--n to say that I would bring up the engine now at San Francisco, the moment on his part the audit was run as agreed upon; they are to send me terms.

The nineteenth; a repetition of the former lovely weather appears to have set in. At last, a waggon came with some of the things wanted, but still the most essential are wanting.

The population washing for gold are 137 133 actively making the most of the water, for now no more rain.

In consequence of the financial intimations which I received by the last mail, it became necessary to go to San Francisco to negotiate some bills, if indeed any one will cash bills drawn upon the directory of a company scarcely known, even upon the Stock Exchange of London.

Dr. B--d called with his waggon; as he goes this morning to Marysville, I go down with him. We left the Keystone at ten o'clock.

There is a place called the "Texas" ranche, about nine miles on the road, near which a water-course does the duty of a road for a space; it is full of large stones, over which the waggon jolted fearfully, and at last the body literally shifted from its place on the bed; one jolt more, and it would have been in the water. 138 134 The vehicle was stopped in time, but we both had to get out and stand in a rapid stream, while we were "fixing up" again; in a short time all was right, and away again went the doctor and his waggon.

Got to Huff's ranche, twelve miles from Marysville, at sun-set, too late to cross the plain in its present state. Found supper on the table, so we sat down to it. These meals are very sorry affairs both in the material and in the society; every labourer, miner, teamster, or other person who happens to be at the house, sits down together; certainly, each of them has washed, at the general basin, his hands, and brushed his hair with the general brush hanging on the wall of the supper-room; in every other respect each is as he came from his work, dirty enough. During the meal you must seize upon anything by you, without ceremony; and 139 135 as no one thinks of asking if he shall help any other, so you have an arm, clothed in a wet or dirty woollen cloth, frequently and suddenly thrust across your plate, which returns by the same route, having successfully foraged upon some distant territory.

Bed-time came; about twenty-four of us were turned into one long room, our beds laid out like those of an hospital; each took one, and generally the tenants did not undress. Almost every person on such occasions has a very considerable amount of gold about him, and it is curious to observe the several methods taken to secure it, together with the revolver, without which few move about.

This is carrying out the law of liberty and equality with a vengeance; for though you are willing to pay for more secluded accommodation, you cannot by any means 140 136 obtain it. In one corner, by the bye, there was a woman with a baby.

Up at sun-rise, the twentieth. The doctor having "hitched up" his team, we again started, and came to Marysville about noon, the people of which place were in great excitement. A thief had been captured: the mob would have Judge Lynch to try him; the recorder, had possession, and would not recognise that authority; all was uproar. I have seen a pack of hounds baying round the huntsman who holds up the fox, and so now did the mob round the recorder who held the thief: revolvers were cocked on both sides--but the recorder, was not to be bullied, so the prisoner was committed to jail; the offence, however, was a bailable one; the bail required was two thousand 141 137 dollars; in the event of the accused flying from his securities, the recorder has half the whole sum, so it generally happens that the person bailed pays half the sum into the recorder's hands, and gives personal security for the other half: he is then set so far at liberty; and if his case is clearly a bad one, he "slopes" with all possible dispatch, and disappears; these were the grounds of difference between the mob and legal authority. This man, however, afterwards was again caught by the mob and thrown into jail, from whence he was taken to be tried at the assizes; he was then condemned, and upon the morning of his execution he was conveyed in an insensible state, having been rendered so by some drug; and utterly ignorant of what was passing, he was hung amidst the scoffs and jokes of the enlightened citizens.

142 138

Enjoyed a delightful evening with my friends, Dr. and Mrs. B--tt; I can tolerate mountain life, if I am sure of a few evenings with them afterwards.

Slept at the Tremont hotel--what places to call hotels! the entrance is a barroom, where every one drinks, the floor is slippery with discharged tobacco-juice; then there is the "parlour," in which each sofa is occupied by one person lying at length upon it, all smoking and spitting; the meat-room has been already drenched. The Tremont has two or three single bedrooms; I had one of these, thanks to the landlord, Mr. H--sk--n. In the next room to me, divided from mine only by a thin papered lining tacked to a frame, were two Americans; one of them revealed his views of the inhabitants of the British Isles.

The Scotchman was a sullen "crittur," 143 139 half bull, half donkey. The Irishman was the "meanest thing in all creation." And "as for the Britishers," he said, "whenever I see one, I want to give him particular h--ll."

The next morning, the twenty-second, I was on my way to San Francisco by the steamer. About eleven miles below Marysville the vessel stopped for half-an-hour, this was for the purpose of allowing sundry passengers to pay a visit to Captain Sutton, at his place, Hock Farm, en passant; his daughter had been married the evening before, and as appears to be the fashion here, the night is consecrated to revelry and feasting.

I went to see the captain, and found him sitting at a table amongst bottles half and quite empty, wine-glasses and 144 140 tumblers, showing what once had filled them, and stumps of half-used cigars, the floor covered with all the de´bris of a supper; the captain scarcely recovered from his indulgences.

We then returned on board, and the steamer passed on her voyage again. At San Francisco by eleven o'clock--slept on board.

Next morning, domiciled at Mrs. G--m's. I found a letter here from a member of the directory, telling me by no means to draw for the five thousand pounds, for which I had the board's permission to draw for, a few days ago! How can any enterprise be carried on successfully upon such a system? However, if at first the board really intended me to draw for this money, I was already prevented from doing so by the form in 145 141 which it was to be addressed for payment. I am told no one will cash bills so addressed, so all the work must still be suspended. I am a modern Tantalus; five thousand pounds hung up to look at--not to employ.

This morning, Mr. C--pt--n gave me a letter from Mr. M--cl--n, of Hong Kong, with also a box of delightful tea, which the latter has most kindly sent to me; and a great treat it is, for here nothing drank but green tea, and shocking stuff it is.

Two ships came in from China, bringing upwards of eight hundred celestials, who intend trying their fortunes in the diggings. The celestials have an eye to business sometimes; for instance:

"MARKED HIS CHICKENS.--A gentleman who lives on Rincon Point, complained of Ah Wow, a Chinaman, for 146 142 stealing four of his chickens. The owner of the fowls had marked them, by tying a piece of red flannel to their legs. John's witnesses swore that several of his hens were marked in the same manner, to designate which were the best laying hens."

I went to see Dr. C--ll--r's newly-invented quartz-crusher and amalgamator; the crushing, or rather grinding process is very perfect. I took Count W--s to see the method of amalgamating; he does not approve of it; and as he has been in the Hungarian mines the most part of his life, his testimony is worth having.

News from Nevada. Two lawyers quarrelled about a decision in court: one of them shot the other; the friends of the wounded party being unable to catch the shooter, who had fled, instantly adjourned to his office, where, finding his partner, 147 143 they shockingly beat him instead, and called it an instalment of the debt due to the firm.

A tragic accident occurred at S--ll--gs ranche, a few nights since; a number of people were sleeping, as before described, in one long room, all armed as usual, but the room being full, another, who arrived, went above, to sleep in a loft. Something in the night alarmed them; every man jumped up, and in the hurry to seize revolvers and rifles, one of the latter was fired; the alarm subsided, and all parties again laid down. When rising in the morning, many jokes were passed; but the host, looking for his pay, observed, "Where is the man in the loft?" and got on the ladder to see. He appeared to be asleep; but attempting to awaken him, he was found to be quite dead. On examination, it was discovered that the ball 148 144 from the rifle had gone through his heart!

A man gambling this day (Sunday), suddenly fell forward on the table, and instantly died. Also, says the Monday paper, Mr. R--k was brought up, charged with shooting Messrs. G--s and R--y yesterday, on the race-course. He was admitted to bail in the sum of one thousand dollars.

I have a horrible influenza cold, and there is a child in the house outrageously crying and swearing, the father and mother both threatening all manner of things to keep it quiet. Some one above me has contributed to my comforts while in bed, by upsetting his water-jug, and conferring an impromptu shower-bath on me; seizing my Indian-rubber coat, I evaded it in some degree; floors are not water-proof here.

149 145

Dined at Mrs.--, in Stockton. Went to meet Judge L--; imagine the learned authority dancing the polka, after dinner, with a young lady of the party.

A gun fired. Panama steamer in, probably.

The Stockton papers complain of an increase of "stabbing" cases, and of "disorderly" habits generally, in the vicinity of that city; for instance:

"Last Friday, three men were shot in the vicinity of Stockton; on Saturday evening, an attempt was made to shoot two men, without provocation; and the same night, a Mexican was most inhumanly butchered in a house in the out-skirts of the city; and on Sunday morning, an attempt was made to shoot a gentleman, for no earthly reason that he could conceive of. We do not know that we have mentioned all the cases yet; but 150 146 these we know of, for they are the subject of conversation by everybody."

The journal says it does not wish to be rough, but this state of things should be looked into, and the authorities be called upon to stop it. Below are several items exhibiting the unruly nature of some of the citizens of Stockton.

This, at least, is temperate enough to please even a peaceable Quaker. I conversed this day with an engineer on the subject of putting up the engine now at San Francisco; this is a very small one, only a six-horse power, standing upon a bed-plate, to be screwed down to a six-inch plank, to cover a timber foundation; his estimate being put down as we proceeded, it amounted to two thousand five hundred pounds, or twelve thousand five hundred dollars. This did not include anything whatever but the mere carriage 151 147 and erection of the engine and crushing machinery.

Miseries of a San Francisco boarding-house--no servant calls you in the morning--if you want warm water, you had better keep a spirit-lamp nursery baby-kettle, matches, &c. in your room--if you wish for polished shoes, wear patent leather, or keep a blacking establishment in your room. A hideous gong calls you to meals, and if you miss the meal-hour, it is in vain that you ask for anything to eat at any other time; if you are ill, no one troubles himself to know what are your necessities, unless some friend will look to them; this I mention from experience, through my late influenza attack.

The good people of California may congratulate themselves upon the manner in which, by the following statements that 152 148 have appeared in the papers, their steam-ships are commanded:

"STEAM-SHIP `NORTH AMERICA.'--We yesterday took a walk down to the wharf where the steam-ship `North America' was lying. In company with two friends we went on board, and were introduced to Captain B--n, her obliging and gentlemanly commander. The `North America' is a large and magnificent ship. Her accommodations are most ample, and her facilities for cleanliness and ventilation are as complete as in any ship we ever saw. She will be a popular boat, if her agents and owners will only be as liberal and obliging as her commander. Captain B--n is destined to take with Californians. He has already got the hang of our people, and their notions of men and things."

"THE `CALIFORNIA.'--This pioneer 153 149 steam-ship, commanded by Captain B--d, as clever a gentleman as ever walked the deck of a steam-ship, leaves with the United States mails on the fifteenth instant. She has brought to and carried from this State many thousands, and we think she is strong enough, and popular enough, to carry upon her breast many thousands more. Captain B--d is always a live seaman on board of his ship. He talks and acts sensibly, and his ship moves upon the waters `like a thing of life.'"

"THE `ISTHMUS.'--This steamer has been handsomely refitted. She is commanded by Captain O--r, a most gallant and gentlemanly officer. He is warmly attached to California. He holds a high rank in the navy, both as an officer and a man, with all who know him; and should war ever break out, he will be found where duty leads."

154 150

The first of these has, unhappily, in some degree fallen short of the commendation, having been lately completely wrecked when coming from the southward, and in a manner that created much suspicion amongst the passengers. The "obliging and gentlemanly" commander had ordered a course to be steered close to the shore; the officer to whom the order had been given saw in a very short time that that course would run the ship on the beach, and steered more to seaward.

The night being calm, with bright moonlight, it could be distinctly seen; the "obliging and gentlemanly" commander came up, and observing that the course of the ship had been altered to seaward, instantly found fault, and as instantly altered it to that which he had at first given. The steamer neared the 155 151 coast rapidly, then the surf on the beach was distinctly seen; the commander would make no alteration, and in a few minutes more the steamer grounded, with her broadside to the beach. The surf always breaking heavily on this shore, soon rendered every attempt to get her off abortive, and the only thing to be done was to save the lives of those on board. This was facilitated by the vessel forming a breakwater for the boats, which were got out, and, I believe, every one landed in safety, but, of course, wet, and with the loss of much baggage.

The passengers remained on the beach, under a tropical sun, during the next day, under very severe privations, many ladies being amongst the number; mules were at length found to convey them to Acupulco, and from thence they were 156 152 brought by other steamers to San Francisco.

The loss of this vessel, it being only her second trip, and having been built and fitted out in New York, purposely to run in opposition to the Pacific Mail Steam ship Company, created an extraordinary sensation in San Francisco. It was there openly said, that the vessel was intentionally stranded; that it was worth the while of the Pacific Mail Company to get rid of her; and sundry allegations of this complexion were abroad. One thing is very certain, if the commander of the ship was not blind, or deranged in intellect, when he altered the course from that to which the officer of the watch had turned the vessel's head; he must have seen the consequences that his obstinacy infallibly entailed.

But every captain of a steamer in 157 153 California is "obliging and gentlemanly," generally "perfect gentlemen;" the pursers and officers are "polite;" the stewards, servants, accommodation, and provision, are "kinder good."

158 154
CHAPTER VIII.

APRIL.

THIS month begins with a fine, but cold day, the wind coming from the northward, over the snowy ranges.

The "Panama" mail steamer in. By my letters, it appears that the company are about to send out an engine and crushing machinery of great power, capable, I am told, of crushing one hundred and fifty tons per diem. To put this engine up will cost, at least, seven thousand pounds, or thirty-five thousand 159 155 dollars, exclusive of necessary buildings; and by sending it now, they will get it here just as the rains will have rendered the roads impassable for heavily-laden waggons; the consequence will be, that it must be put in a bonded store, remain there four or five months, paying two or three dollars per ton per month.

This is against advice; but directories seventeen thousand miles off, are always the best judges; and though excellent engines here, of forty-five American horse power, can be bought, as I wrote, for seven thousand five hundred dollars, or fifteen hundred pounds; yet the whole must be sent from England, at a higher cost, and on which thirty per cent. duty must be paid on landing it. I am told the weight of what is coming out will be eighty-five tons, so there will be two hundred and fifty pounds for storage, landing, 160 156 re-embarking, &c., not much less; and there is no money here, or, apparently, anywhere, to meet even these primary expenses.

No engine or machinery should be sent from England to California: the New York workmanship will answer every required purpose; the things are much less time on the sea, and there is no duty payable upon them. Moreover, the agent sent out should have full powers to select such lodes as he may think most advisable, try them, or "prove" them, as Cornish miners say; and when satisfied on these points, then complete the negociation; begin to get out the quartz, wood, &c., prepare the necessary buildings, and get the engine and machinery up during the dry season. A twelve-month employed by the agent in looking about him will be found a great 161 157 advantage in the end, and I am satisfied that under such a system, the work being conducted by competent persons, that any mining company would succeed even in California, where labour is unusually high; but the directories will do things their own way, and encumber the agent with masses of machinery to look after, and pay expenses upon, without supplying money even sufficient to do that, crippling him in the pursuit of objects most important to be completed. It is an absurdity to suppose that four or five gentlemen in England, meeting once a week at the board, can conduct with advantage business that is going on seventeen thousand miles off, in a country new to the operations, and with the requirements of which they can only be made conversant by their agent; they would more show their sense by noticing his observations.

162 158

The cold summer winds are now setting in; these winds blow during the months of June, July, and August, with great violence here; they are, however, in this month, May and September, modified, and very pleasant. In their strength they are always accompanied by a thick fog, by which the entrance to the port is quite obscured. During this period the sun is nearly concealed in the mist, the temperature low, a hurricane in the streets whirling volumes of dust about, and, altogether, making San Francisco intolerable. Should the sun force its rays through the dense atmosphere, the heat then becomes intense; and although an overcoat would have been worn an hour ago, now the lightest clothing would be desirable.

Suddenly, the wind springs up, the fog is renewed, and the cold with it. 163 159 These changes render those who encounter the climate of San Francisco very obnoxious to pulmonary complaints; but it is only at San Francisco where this liability exists in California. At a distance of ten miles the fog is unknown; and the wind, so violent at the city, is nothing more than a pleasantly cool breeze. Ships have frequently been unable to work out of the bay, from the wind being so strong, although in the offing they are under all sail, and nearly becalmed.

This phenomenon arises from the country becoming so intensely heated by the sun, and a vacuum being constituted thereby, the sea-wind coming to fill it up, strikes the lofty coast range of mountains, follows their line, until broken by the narrow entrance into San Francisco bay; here, finding an opening, it rushes 164 160 in with inconceivable fury; but what here is insufferable, is, as I said, ten miles off, an invigorating breeze, and delightfully counteracts the heat of the sun.

Count W--s has again examined the crusher and amalgamator of Dr. C--ll--r, and adheres to his expressed opinions. The Count thinks the loss of quicksilver will be very great by this process.

This evening, for the first time, I went to the theatre; the play was "The Heir at Law;" after-piece, "The French Spy." An Englishman performed Zekiel tolerably well; but the Californians must not attempt genteel comedy--they do not at all understand the character to be represented. The after-piece, "The French Spy," was very badly acted.

I have made an arrangement with Mr. H--b--n, an agent for an English Mining 165 161 company here, to take his four Irishmen into my pay, as he finds some difficulty about employing them at the Maripa; he cashes my bill for five hundred pounds upon my directory, as he knows the board and its means; so, at last, I get a little money to go on with, and to do some little towards preparing for the general work.

News has arrived of the retirement of Lord John Russell from office, having been beaten on the Militia Bill, by Lord Palmerston, whom Lord John himself has dismissed from the Foreign-office for something or other; of course, when Lord John will measure his strength with Lord Palmerston, the former must be beaten.

Mr. D--s has arrived; sent by the company to perform the duties of mining agent. A good Cornish mining captain 166 162 would be of some service; mining agents generally scheme for themselves, as well as for others who employ them. He says, he can collect the gold without quick-silver--"quien sabe?" as the Mexican says, when he does not believe a statement.

I showed Mr. D--s two pieces of quartz--neither piece showing any gold; they came from Placerville: he carefully examined them both, and exclaimed at once--"Miserably poor." I expressed dissent. He said again, "Miserably poor!" Mr. D--s had been bred a millwright, not a miner; in the first capacity, he had worked about a mining establishment in the Brazils, and there picked up a superficial knowledge of mining.

Called on Mrs. W--n; a wedding there yesterday; champagne and cake exhibited. By the bye, the "universal Yankee 167 163 nation" proposes to "whip" the French champagne, according to Mr. Longworth.

"SPARKLING CATAWBA.--Mr. Longworth, manufacturer of the celebrated Catawba wine at Cincinnati, has written a letter to the New York Tribune regarding it. He says:--`I claim for it one superiority over imported champagne. It will be found to suit the stomach better, and be much healthier, It is the pure juice of our Catawba grape, with the addition of the best rock candy. The French champagne is made from a mixture of three or four different wines, which never can be healthy to the stomach. They say one kind is to give aroma and flavour; another, strength; another, effervescence. If true, our Catawba is superior, for it contains all these properties. Interest may have an influence even in France, 168 164 as one of the wines used costs three times as much as the others. I expect next summer to have more wine than will meet the home demand, and shall then send to the Eastern and Southern cities, to wine-merchants, to be sold at private sale, but never at auction. Any person who buys it, and is dissatisfied with its quality, can return to the agent, and receive back the full sum paid."

Mr. and Mrs. MacD--s--l arrived; he has a mining staff and machinery with him being employed by an English company. There are four of these about to work in California. We have now another English lady in San Francisco. He goes to Maripora this evening.

Sunday opens with the following notices in the paper; these performances take 169 165 place at the "Mission Dolores:" how different to the practices of this and other missions of earlier days!

"1st. The `Bandarillero' Vittoriano will perform on horseback, blindfolded.

"2nd. Sr. Nicolas, `il Matador,' will jump over a bull whilst furiously rushing at him.

"3rd. The Clown, whilst on the shoulders of one of the `Torreres,' will plant a pair of flags between the horns of a bull.

"4th. The Chief of the Ring will perform some extraordinary feats with the animals.

"5th. Bulls warranted of extraordinary fierceness.

"The fights to begin at three, P.M."

Went to Trinity church with Mrs. MacD--c--e. After all, I can't feel myself in a church here; people come in, 170 166 and bow and smile to each other as they would if in a theatre. Miss C--e sang; she sings in the opera--for church-singing she is said to receive fifty dollars every Sunday. I think, if attraction to the church is intended, that she had better stay at home.

Influenza is prevailing in San Francisco, and I have an admirable sample of it. Met Captain H--d--n, commanding the United States ship "Vincennes;" the captain showed me some quartz that came from Queen Charlotte's Island, it was well speckled with gold, but it appears the lode is only visible at low water.

Left San Francisco by the steamer "Antelope," en route to the Keystone, there to join Mr. D--s, the newly-arrived mining agent. As a favour, I had a "Bridal state-room" given to me to sleep in; it is well fitted up; all the large 171 167 steamers running to Sacramento have two such state-rooms in readiness, for there are families coming out, it is said and marriages may be expected. The bed, after all, is confoundedly hard, with pillows enough for three beds, --what on earth can they do with them? slept on board.

At Sacramento, met Mr. H--s, my Hebrew quartz friend--he produces now another lode only forty-five miles from Sacramento--he will, probably, find one in the town soon.

A long conversation with Mr. F--th--n on amalgamators; it seems certain that the less the surface of the quicksilver is broken, the better for the purposes of amalgamation.

Change of air seems the secret cure 172 168 for influenza; my attack is fast fading away.

This morning on board the "Camanche" steamer to Marysville. Dr. H--ch--k, of the United States army, with his lady and daughter, on board, both pleasing, intelligent companions, the daughter a child. There is no childhood in the American children, none of that playful, innocent, endearing manner, which is so attractive in children; here children are sententious, crude, and premature.

Stopped at Plumas city--it consists of one house; two of its fashionables came on board--then the boat went on to Captain Sutler's place, Hock farm, where 173 169 we remained a quarter of an hour, just long enough to allow of my procuring a bouquet for Mrs. B--tt. On to Marysville, and passed the evening at the Doctor's house.

Between Sacramento there are no less than six cities--at least on paper. When the discovery of gold caused an enormous emigration to California in 1849, sundry people seized upon various large tracts of land, staked the ground out in "lots," streets and squares, giving attractive and popular titles to the two latter generally, which sounded oddly when contrasted with others, bearing only a number or letter of the alphabet.

Whenever this was so far completed, the most glowing representations of these cities were industriously spread through-out the state or territory, as it then was; the lots were sold to applicants who were 174 170 soft enough to demand them; and titles were made by those who held the grounds by no right beyond that given by their rifles. Very few of these cities ever came to maturity, consequently we now scarcely hear of those projected, although their sites are still spoken of respectively as Vernon, Frimont, Nicholas, Plumas, Elizabeth, Aro, with Yuba city which stands opposite to Marysville, and was the unsuccessful rival to the latter.

Marysville, from its position, naturally "whipped" all the others, and now enjoys a very considerable name among the trading cities of California; the wooden buildings are fast giving place to others substantially built of brick.

Bought a waggon and double harness for one hundred and sixty-five dollars, preparatory to going to the mountains. Met Captain Sutler; this gentleman 175 171 invited me to Hock Farm, seven miles from Marysville. I accepted, and rode down in the cool of the evening.

The captain had been an officer of the Swiss Guard of Charles the Tenth of France, at whose expulsion, the captain left also, and after travelling in America, came to California, and had made to him a very extensive grant of land, by the then Mexican Government; this he called New Helvetia; erected near to Sacramento "adobe" buildings, surrounded them with a similar wall, called the place Sutler Fort, and had from three to four hundred Indians lying about the place, and feeding upon his resources.

Hock Farm is another place built in "adobe" by Captain Sutler. This does not assume the character of a fortress in any manner; the house is commodious, and supplied with good stables, farm 176 172 buildings, &c., the whole surrounded by a wall, which encloses a yard and gardens extending over three or four acres, the front being on the river. It was here that Captain Sutler first became informed of the unlimited presence of gold in California.

He was sitting one extremely wet evening in his office, and on a sudden, a man named Marshall came in; Captain Sutler had employed him to put up a saw mill at Coloma, and Marshall was the last man expected to be seen then at Hock Farm; he looked wild and worn with exertion, the water streaming from his hat and coat. In a surprised tone, Captain Sutler enquired what had brought him to the farm?

Marshall remained silent, but looking wildly round, he saw a young man who kept the accounts at Hock Farm for the 177 173 captain. Marshall significantly looked at Captain Sutler, and in an under-voice said, "There is a person present; no one must know why I am here."

The captain said, only the clerk was there. Marshall became angry, repeated that no one must know the cause of his visit, and earnestly called on Captain Sutler to come into the house with him, in order to be secure from intrusion.

They retired to the private room of Captain Sutler; though perfectly alone, still Marshall feared to divulge his secret; in the greatest excitation, he would start from his chair, rush to the door, rapidly throw it open, listen to ascertain that no one was near, then, taking his seat, begin again his story, only again to rush out of the room, declaring that spies were on them both.

Captain Sutler assured me nearly two 178 174 hours were consumed in this manner, until he actually thought that Marshall was mad, for it was clear he was not intoxicated. At length Marshall began to shed tears, imploringly begged the captain to assure him that they were unobserved, and he would tell all.

Captain Sutler did all he could to tranquillize the poor man's mind, anxiously wishing to be separated from, as he thought, a deranged man, not having the most remote idea of the cause of Marshall's conduct. Marshall became calm, and then told his story.

He had cut a channel to convey the water from the river running through Coloma to the wheel of the mill, and had turned the water in, to carry away rubbish and unevennesses; that having been accomplished, he stopped out the water again, and the channel soon became dry; the 179 175 following evening he was walking along the bottom of it, and saw some small yellow substances, which he scarcely noticed more than to kick them with his foot as he passed; he came back the same way, and again observing them in many places, picked one up--he found it to be a metal, yellow and heavy; he collected more. Confirmed in this idea, he exultingly told a companion the circumstance in confidence, while he himself got on horseback, and raced away like a maniac to Hock Farm.

The fatigue of a ride of seventy miles, combined with the visions of unbounded wealth so soon to be secured, certainly for a time disordered his mind, in which state he reached Captain Sutler.

Both returned to Coloma, but on their arrival the secret had transpired, and already some hundred men had collected 180 176 on the spot, every one of whom were rapidly acquiring gold. No more was thought of the saw-mill--no man could be got to work it; no one would labour at any price but for himself, although could a few of them have been recalled to reason calmly, it would have been obvious to them that the plank sawn out at the mill would have been eagerly purchased at their own price, in order to build shelter against the winter, which at this time was near; but reason had fled before the presence of the gold.

No man had ever so brilliant an opportunity of amassing enormous riches as then had Captain Sutler; his fort, near where now Sacramento city is, was the only place where cover could be obtained by the inhabitants of the universe rushing to Coloma, for all at first went there, not thinking that gold could be as plentifully 181 177 found elsewhere. He had but to sit still in Sutler fort, purchase provisions such as he could get, and sell them at inconceivably high prices. But Captain Sutler was not calculated for such a business; he was, as he had always been, a frank-hearted, confiding soldier, a man whose name was never mixed up with one sordid thought--who, honest and generous himself, could not bring himself to think others dissimilar; benevolent and hospitable, his gates were open to every traveller; and he has lived to find a community as utterly the reverse of himself, as he had thought them similar.

The men he sheltered, fed, and often clothed, are now living in California upon the riches they derive from property swindled from him in his convivial hours; in those hours these ravening fiends persuaded him to sign powers of attorney 182 178 giving them entire control over his property. In this manner a Mormon cajoled him out of almost the entire ground upon which Sacramento stands. This swindling vagabond is immensely rich from the sale of town lots stolen from Captain Sutler, and upon which lots the city of Sacramento now stands, while Sutler himself has little, if anything, beyond Hock Farm, if, indeed, that is altogether his; this property is now worked by himself and two sons.

I remained the night at Hock Farm; after the heat had subsided, I walked with him to see his arrangements, and the Indian ranche close by.

Near the house there is a garden well laid out with borders supplying vegetables to the family. Two extensive greenhouses, in which his sons are raising all manner of shrubs from cuttings, flowers 183 179 and plants of every species. On the other side there are extensive vineyards extremely well kept, and which next year will be very profitable, for the captain has been taught a severe lesson; and though he will never, while he breathes, adopt a vestige of the infamy by which he has been robbed, yet he will now do his utmost to save the remnant of possessions which unprincipled scoundrels have left unplundered.

At the Indian rancherie I saw a priest performing religious duties. He was perched upon the top of one of their beehiveshaped houses, motionless, excepting that now and then he moved his head up and down. I could not see his lips move, his prayer was mental, if otherwise than merely formal; however, Captain Sutler told me that they did pray, and that the priest was now entreating the Great Spirit to 184 180 grant them in abundance, salmon, roots, and acorns, on which they live. A bevy of young Indian children were playing a game I have often seen children play in England; they formed up in two lines, one line on each side of a stick between them; the children stood behind each other on both sides, their arms round the waist of the one before: these so arranged then held back with all their little strength respectively the leading Indians who held each other's arms, and that party whose leader was first forced over the stick, lost the victory.

The residences of these Indians are primitive enough; they dig a circular hole in the ground, generally twelve or fifteen feet in diameter; over this hole, about three feet deep, they place a cover, shaped like a beehive, and made of branches of the small willow, which abounds on the 185 181 river banks; this is again covered with anything, sometimes earth, to protect the inmates from the cold and rain. They are a thoroughly dirty and lazy race; as usual, the women of these savages do all the domestic work, the men doing only the hunting; bows and arrows are their weapons, and they spear the salmon.

In the evening, I rode back to Marysville. At this time of the year the country is very charming--the oak trees cover the plain, on this part, just sufficiently to give it an appearance very much resembling the New Forest: they are in their first young leaf; the herbage is green and vigorous, flowers richly interspersed throughout.

The kindness of Dr. and Mrs. Bennett saved me from the horror of dining in a Marysville hotel--dirty companions, 186 182 greasy cookery, flies in myriads, and tobacco smoke, are the accompaniments of these places.

Next morning I rode to the ranche, meaning, in this case, the farm of Captain P--x; it is situated about a mile and a half from Marysville, on the north bank of the Yuba. The locality of this farm is very beautiful, and rendered fertile by its proximity to the river. The captain is rapidly giving it an English aspect, and, in a short time, it will probably return a handsome revenue. At present, the agricultural operations in California are small enough; the American only encloses and improves land in order to sell it as soon as he possibly can.

On horseback for the mines. Riding along the road being about seventeen miles on my way, two buzzards took up 187 183 their position on the top of an old oak tree. I got off, unslung my rifle, and thinking the horse would remain grazing, I walked towards the tree; immediately that I fired, away went the horse, carrying with him my portmanteau, containing, amongst other things, one thousand dollars; rather a large sum for an agent, ill supplied by his principals, to see vanishing so suddenly from his possession.

The creature took the road, and preferring the descending to the ascending line, commenced a retrograde movement towards the plain, from the edge of which we were about five miles. I never could get nearer than ten yards; the moment I at all lessened that distance, the beast trotted on some hundred yards, then halted to feed. Presently, one strap of my travelling portmanteau gave way; I 188 184 feared every instant the other would also, then I must have carried it myself. The day was hot, the portmanteau heavy, and, as I walked along, apparently by inclination driving my horse before me, I was harassed by those facts. In this dilemma I retraced my morning steps at least two miles and a half, when, happily, I saw four men advancing on the road towards us; I called to them to stop the horse; they very good-naturedly spread themselves out to the right and left, and the animal, apparently thinking he had carried his joke far enough, allowed himself to be caught, and myself to remount.

I offered money to my allies for doing what really was to me a great service; it was declined, with the good-nature that is usually found in the bonaˆ-fide American miner of this country.

Having thanked and wished them 189 185 success, I made the animal compensate for the loss of time.

On reaching the mine, I found the small engine which had been erected altogether too weak to be of any service; also the owners of the mine had not only not fulfilled any part of their engagements, but that they also had refused to let Mr. D--s have a ton of quartz to try its value; he and the owners consequently were at war. The latter difficulty was got over; but Mr. D--s was determined to revenge himself upon the proprietors, and declared that the quartz, though "perhaps tolerable," was nothing but a "landslip," and, therefore, would last no time. He having been sent out to report and advise with me on the question of quartzlodes, and having decided against the "Keystone," all farther intention to work it was abandoned. Nevertheless, I 190 186 disagree with him; in my opinion, the lode is a good and continuous one.

The proprietors of this lode do not go the right way to get it purchased; there are four of them living close upon it, yet they will do nothing to disclose its merits; every test of its quartz has yielded gold; yet they prefer, American like, to range the neighbouring mountains with a rifle, in search of deer, rather than employ their days in tunnelling, to ascertain the limits of the lode.

M--tl--d and H--y seem to think they have a good quartz-lode close by this place--every one has such a thing wherever an English company locates. Mr. D--s professes to entertain the same view. I think very much the reverse of all three; but it shall be looked for, and I hope they "may get it"--so to-morrow Mr. D--s 191 187 and three men go to work upon the place.

At Forbes Town, about five miles distant, there is a large quartz-mill; it has been working some few weeks, but the return of gold is, by the secretary's account, "nil." The shareholders have met in an angry humour, and the question in debate has been, "Shall the secretary be hung?" In the meantime, the secretary "slopes;" this may be called illustrative of Californian life and death.

This morning has been passed in testing sundry pieces of quartz, which have been brought in from the lode professed to have been found by M--tl--d and H--y. No yield of a satisfactory nature as yet. Some of the Keystone, brought in by P--n, yields well; Mr. D--s perseveres in calling this lode a "slip." A salmon for dinner this day--a rarity for 192 188 our table--the salmon of California is, however, a very coarse fish, more fitted for being dried, than for coming to table; it cannot be compared to the salmon of England.

The Keystone company had a meeting this day--they offer me the privilege of working "one-half" their lode for three or five years, on lease, giving one-third of the produce to them. These Americans seem to think all people babies but themselves.

A piece of pure white quartz, brought from Placerville, and described by Mr. D--s to be "miserably poor!" was pounded up; it weighted three pounds, three quarters of an ounce, and yielded two dollars, ninety-eight cents. Another piece of very hard quartz from the same place, one pound three ounces, yielded one dollar seven cents. No gold could be seen in 193 189 either of these pieces--both of them were condemned as being "miserably poor!" by Mr. D--s. I do not know what sort of a judge he may have been in the Brazils, but he does not shine here much.

194 190
CHAPTER IX.

MAY.

HAIL fell in the night, and we sensibly felt the cold after so much mild weather; these changes are very frequent in the mountains.

Informed the proprietors of the Keystone lode that no machinery would be put up, if they adhered to the three or five years' lease; they have, I believe, a rich lode, but they are too lazy, and too poor, to work it themselves, as well as too exacting, to allow us to work it for 195 191 them. P--n is a leading man amongst the proprietors, but he has a contrary set to deal with, excepting Sir G--d--n and D--k; these are reasonable enough. He has just returned from meeting them at Forbes Town, and tells me he has the "Blue devils" in consequence.

We rode about five miles to see a water mill, belonging to another company, at a place called Dicksburgh; this mill is, I believe, for sale, with several quartz lodes round it; perhaps worth considering, as the Keystone, it seems, cannot be had.

In the absence of means to do anything else, the days are passed in "prospecting" the adjacent country for quartz lodes, and testing any that may be brought in; where I have found an instance of no gold, I have found, uniformly, as many as seven or eight which produce a 196 192 remunerative quantity; that is, from twelve to twenty-two dollars to the ton; it is true, that to make twelve dollars a ton remunerative, heavy machinery must be used. Most of these lodes would pay handsomely, if worked by only four or five shareholders, instead of their produce being divided amongst as many thousands.

The four proprietors of the Keystone, now leaving here, are amusing themselves by firing at a mark, swinging in a swing upon the branch of a tree, chasing each other about the hills, &c. The Americans, in maturity, are often more childish than even their children; and as for the latter, I have never seen one act like a child.

Mr. D--s, the mining-agent, has been prosecuting the search of a supposed lode for some days, and now he finds it a 197 193 "scatteration"--Anglice, a confused assemblage of small veiws.

Mr. C--y--m came from Dicksburgh to breakfast; he is well disposed to sell his mill and quartz-lodes; this, however, is characteristic only; the American would sell his skin if he could get it off. Mr. D--s, however, goes back with him to examine and report upon the whole property.

H--y returned from Marysville, bringing me letters from England; but although my letters of January have been acknowledged, yet nothing has been done towards giving me the power to draw for money in a negociable form; we are at a stand, consequently. How is it possible to expect success under such a system?

Mr. G--d--n brought me a letter from the Keystone Company, stating that my 198 194 propositions with reference to working that lode would be considered, if I sent any in.

I sent in an offer to work it, giving that company one-third of the net proceeds, reserving myself a lease of twenty-one years. This will be rejected, and I shall be rid of any more bother with the lode, till the proprietors wish to go to the United States again, and then they will sell shares for what they can fetch.

Mr. D--s returned from Dicksburgh. He has thoroughly examined the appearances of the quartz-lodes there, and reports them sure to yield from one to one and a half cents per pound; this will be from twenty to thirty dollars per ton--a large produce.

He has had some thirty-five years of experience in mining matters, he says; 199 195 and if so, ought to know something of ores in general; but I much doubt his accuracy in this instance. However, he is sent to advise me in such selections.

Upon his recommendation, the property will probably be purchased or leased, as soon as the title is proved to be good; and this, when I have in hand scarcely more than two hundred dollars--thanks to the directory!

Americans here are under the delusion that they cannot at any moment be intrusive; so at six o'clock this morning, a man suddenly opened my door, while I was dressing, to inform me that the people were ready to begin the newly-surveyed line of road, and asked for my contingent. The fact of my being in the midst of towels and water was of no 200 196 importance--he cooly sat down, spat upon the floor, and proceeded to discuss the advantages of the new line, and favoured me by stating where he intended to put a ranche, or road-side inn, upon it.

In self-defence, I hurried on sufficient apparel to justify my appearance in public, by which means I could only lure him away from the place in which he had "squatted." There will be found nothing sufficiently persuasive to induce an American to "vamose" his "squat," unless it is the dollar, or business that may lead to it; in this instance, I got him away, and supplied my labour contingent.

Mr. C--y--n and a very ruffian-looking "gentleman," called "Mr. H--k--m," came from Dicksburgh, about my view of purchasing or leasing their mill and 201 197 quartz-lodes. The papers are to be prepared, and my lawyers are to examine them before anything else is done.

Mr. H--k--m is a shockingly dissolute and used-up man, so far as appearance goes. Mr. C--y--n says, that it is attributable solely to his having lived all his life upon "corn-pone and 'possum-fat." I do not know the precise influence these ingredients may have upon a man's looks, but I should have thought, from the indications, that he had much indulged in far less innocent matters.

To-morrow I go to Marysville, en route to San Francisco, to see there a lawyer about the Dicksburgh property; his business will be to create all possible delay, so that time to get money will be gained; then, as Mr. D--s says, the quartz is so good, the property may be purchased.

202 198

On my way down I passed a light waggon; the driver of it appeared to me very unlike an American, and I thought I had somewhere been acquainted with him before. I could not decide the question, and was riding on slowly, when he nodded and said, "How are you?" The voice instantly proclaimed him to be my estimable companion and friend during a seven months' voyage in a ship previously, where we had many severe combats upon the chess-board, in which field he surpassed me in some degree.

I was delighted to meet him again, and we agreed to meet in Marysville, where we were both going. He had taken up the trade of a travelling fish-monger, and was then dispensing salmon at a considerable premium. Here was 203 199 an instance of a man, highly educated, well bred, and honourably minded, actually roving in the Californian mountains, bartering fish in the respective mining towns, which spring up and crumble away just as more or less gold is found near them. His object at first was to dig for gold, but he found that work too heavy, so he embraced a less onerous occupation, in hopes still of rendering himself independent of pecuniary help from his relations; and heaven help those who would rather submit to labour than such aid! We parted, and I rode on with Mr. C--y--n. Crossing the prairie, I met Dr. and Mrs. B--tt, who were riding. I go to them in the evening.

At Marysville about five o'clock. No boat till two o'clock to-morrow, so in the morning early I go to Spring 204 200 Valley, to see some good quartz lodes there.

How brutal the hotels are here! A bar room, behind the bar of which a man sells execrable spirits and wine to a congregation who do nothing all day but eat, drink, smoke, spit and blaspheme: it is no common swearing; the style is that of studied blasphemy. I defy the world to equal the dreadful language these Californian-Americans delight in, not when angry, more than when engaged in common conversation; it is insufferable; and I rejoiced at the arrival of the hour when I could fly from it for a time to the society of Dr. and Mrs. B--tt.

205 201

This morning, the eighth, at half-past five, I got into a buggy with Mr. T--c, to make a visit to Spring Valley, sixteen miles off. The road lies chiefly across the plain or prairie; a few of the first range of hills are surmounted before reaching the valley, which is a large space--a perfect morass in the winter, and baked clay in the dry season.

We found Mr. V--h--n located there, he being a partner in the quartz lodes of the valley: he is an Irish gentleman of conciliatory manners. He received us very kindly, and ushered us into his dwelling, which was formed by a square piece of canvas stretched from tree to tree like a ship's awning; this, at night, and during rain, he sloped. There was no division in the interior, so a survey 206 202 of the me´nage was easily made. The furniture seemed limited to his bed, two or three venerable portmanteaus, a few loaves of bread, some cold beef-steak cemented by congealed gravy to a pewter plate, some sardine cases, tea and tea-things, a case of claret, whiskey and a rifle, together with sundry samples of extremely good quartz, in which gold was very visible.

After sitting a short time, we inspected the quartz lode: it has every indication of being rich and continuous, but the want of water will prevent its being worked until the price of labour greatly falls: nevertheless these grasping poor people, struggling between labour and penury, will not listen to any but the most ridiculously extravagant terms, either in selling or working their lodes.

207 203

They think nothing of asking twenty-five thousand pounds for a lode of which little beyond a few yards of out-crop can be seen; they assert, and maintaining their assertion, though alone by words, soon believe that the lode they have found contains inconceivable riches.

Nothing can persuade them to the contrary, and consequently they demand a price, that as none of their own citizens can give, they hope to get through the well-known insidious means distinguishing persons of speculative habits in the English share markets.

We drove back over a flat country, nearly all of which is covered with small broken quartz, exhibiting very frequently particles of gold; it seems that at some period a quartz lode must 208 204 have been here shattered by a volcanic convulsion.

Leaving this flat, we came to "Browns" Valley, so called from the name of the first American settler in it. In this place there is apparently a vast quantity of quartz, and, if I may judge from what I saw, it must be very good; but "specimens" are now so often made use of for deceptive purposes, that I take nothing of the kind as proof.

There is a small mill here worked by some Americans, it is said remuneratively; it seems to me too slight to do much. The valley, however, is unquestionably worth looking after as a mining location, and I think it preferable to Dicksburgh.

About a mile and a half from this, there is a water mill working six stamps; 209 205 the quartz they work comes from Brown's valley, and they tell me they get about two thousand five hundred dollars a week; this is not improbable.

At this place there is a small inn very prettily situated, kept by a Scotchman named Mc Phail: everything is very clean and neat about it--just the reverse of the same kind of inns kept by the Americans.

I met with two really lovely little children here, whose early history has been eventful.

They had left the United States with their parents, both of whom had "concluded" to emigrate, and, if possible, better their conditions by going to California. The overland route was selected by them, at the time scarcely known, and full of hardships; the father and mother were 210 206 unequal to the privations, and both sunk under them, leaving their two children orphans, and to the mercy of those with whom they had agreed to make the journey.

Unhappily these latter people had no mercy, and finding the poor children required attention from them, they did apparently all in their power short of violence to cause death.

It happened one day as they were ascending a mountain road, the snow falling, and already deep upon it, that it became necessary to lighten the waggons, and every one got out to walk; the two poor children, the eldest not seven years old, were thrust out also to make their way as best they might, through the snow, no one caring about them. In a very short time they were 211 207 a considerable distance behind the party, and in a little time more were out of sight of it.

At this juncture, providentially, Mc Phail, who with his uncle in a light spring waggon, was also travelling by the overland route, came up and found these poor children--the elder, a boy, holding his sister by the hand--both crying bitterly, their little feet bleeding, but endeavouring still to struggle through the snow.

It needed not the natural kind-heartedness of McPhail to dictate the course to pursue; to have abandoned helpless infants to such a death as threatened them before McPhail came to their rescue, could only have been the work of a mind bred from the cradle to sacrifice every feeling of humanity at the altar of the dollar.

212 208

He and his uncle each took one of the children up, asked them how they came there, gave them the best food at their immediate command, and wrapping them up in blankets, laid them in the waggon, where, forgetting their recent peril, the poor creatures soon fell asleep.

Having found from the children that the waggon they had left was not very far before, McPhail, thinking that they had got astray unobserved by their party, pushed on, and in the course of two hours overtook the others.

He told them that he had picked up the two children, and offered to give them up; the others, consisting of four men and three women, brutally answered him, and refused to take the children.

McPhail replied, taunting them with 213 209 their cruelty; but declaring he now would not allow such monsters to have the children, both parties handled their rifles, the original companions of the orphans now demanding them; one of the brutes actually jumped into McPhails's waggon, attempting to seize one of the two still sleeping children, but he was instantly knocked down by a blow from the butt end of the uncle's rifle.

This determined conduct decided the contest--cruelty and cowardice shrunk beneath the honest courage and compassionate hearts of McPhail and his uncle, who drove on in unmolested possession of the unconscious children, whom now I met considering him as their father.

McPhail had brought them up with as much care as he could possibly upon them consistently with his business. 214 210 They could each read and were familiar with his Bible; for more than three years had passed since Heaven sent them a guardian to replace the parents which it had called away.

The little things came confidently to me and began to tell me how their father (McPhail) washed for gold; so I took his pan and asked them to come to the river close by to show me. I scraped up some sand, and the boy began washing it, giving it to his sister when his little arms were tired.

In a short time they came to the end of the sand nearly, when, instead of gold-dust, to their surprize they found several small silver coins, which I had, of course unperceived, put amongst it; in great delight they ran to give them to McPhail, who solved the mystery easily enough.

215 211

I was really sorry to leave this house, then so unlike what elsewhere on the roads one always met; but I was obliged to hurry on to meet the steamer going to Sacramento, on board of which vessel I was at four in the evening.

216 212
CHAPTER X.

AT SACRAMENTO.

HERE, while waiting for the steamer to San Francisco, I met my friend B--e--a; a long conversation with him on the subject of investing British capital in Californian security.

Of course this project will be scouted by the English capitalist who knows nothing of California beyond that which he sees in the daily papers; when he is told that he can get three and four per 217 213 cent. per month for his money, he flies off, as if the hand of a pick-pocket was hovering over his well-filled purse. If, however, he would take the trouble to enquire, he would find security in California equally good with that elsewhere in the world--with this difference, that he generally elsewhere gets an interest for the year , paid when due , which here he gets for the month , paid in advance .

There would be no difficulty now in lending money here in large amounts at an interest of two and a-half and three per cent. per month. The security would be city lands, city lots, brick buildings, both dwelling houses, shops, and stores. The money lent is computed to be the value of half the whole property given as security; there is no difficulty in 218 214 getting the money called in at the appointed time; but more capital is wanted than there is now in California.

I went over Lambard's Iron foundry here; it is ably conducted by Mr. Goss, and the workmanship undoubtedly good.

Madame Biscacianti is here, enchanting the population with her voice.

She has a concert this evening, and Mr. W--n, one of her most enthusiastic patrons, insists upon my accepting a ticket.

I do not much care about music in this way, and perhaps think with Dr. 219 215 Johnson, that if some of the "most difficult were impossible," it would be no hard matter. However, the ticket is too kindly offered to allow of declining it.

At the hotel at which I am now, the Orleans, there is daily spread at one o'clock, a table professing to bear upon it a luncheon gratis; the eatables exhibited consist of the leavings of yesterday, which now reappear in some new shape or other. A number of people flock in at this time, and in ten minutes it is difficult to find a vacant place, so eager is the unpaying community to avail itself of this opportunity of dining gratis.

The proceedings of this great body 220 216 amused me; it consumes voraciously; its members seize a slice of meat, dip it into the salt-cellar and salad mixture, then bite the end so rendered palatable off, continuing to dip and bite till the whole slice is eaten. Others moisten their forks, not being particular as to the source of the moisture, thrust them into the salt or pepper, and so carry away a certain portion, and wipe it on the slice of meat in their possession. There is method in this system--it brings some large number of the community to the hotel; and though these visitants pay nothing for consuming the rubbish, yet they are each expected to take a "drink" at the bar, which is close to the luncheon table. This they all do with much fidelity, and the "drink" costs twenty-five cents. Now one 221 217 "drink" almost uniformly suggests another, and many have found out that the gratis reputation of the luncheon is but a fiction after all.

Strange as it may seem to Europeans, I have seen well-dressed people wedging their way to the table through a mass of draymen, labourers, &c.; and not unfrequently has the Governor of the State himself acquired a forward position there, exercising at the time, like a good republican democrat, more prowess than dignity.

At two P.M. on board the steamer for San Francisco; got there at ten, and soon found myself in the drawing-room of Mrs. S--m--ds, before a nice fire, and with English friends, who have formed a mess here. Mrs. S--m--ds being herself English, every thing here is clean and 222 218 orderly--clean room, clean bed, and clean towels not limited to fourteen inches square, the usual size of these requisites in the Californian-American hotel.

May 12th. English mail in; letters from home, and from the Secretary. Nothing about drawing for money, so every thing remains as it was.

I am told all foreign miners are to be taxed; no harm in that, if the said foreign miners received any protection from the government, which they do not.

Went with the superintendent of the Aqua Fria works, to see the crusher and amalgamator, the invention of a Frenchman; it has stamps first, then two rollers, then a cone moving half round a circle 223 219 and back again; the amalgamation goes on in a Chilian tub. There is too much machinery about it to allow of its being used with economy.

While standing in the street talking to F--r, a drayman turned aside rather than drive against us; too unusual an occurrence to allow of its being passed by without notice.

The society of San Francisco is changing at least, indeed improving. This evening I met a party of Californian-American ladies, each the wife of some business gentleman; they were riding, escorted by three or four of the latter; their horsemanship argued both ladies and gentlemen to be noviciates in the art. 224 220 The Californian-American has a most ridiculous seat on his horse, it is a bad attempt to imitate the German style; the stirrup leather is so lengthened that his toe scarcely presses the iron; the least undue action of the horse displaces his foot, he loses his balance, and only recovers it by using the bridle, a rein of which he generally holds in either hand. The ladies continue to assume the appearance of a bundle of clothes, the skirt of the large habit representing those pieces which are gradually being detached by the motion of the horse.

A specimen of mountain habits is given in the papers to-day.

"A man named Clock shot his wife at French Creek, on the eleventh; upon enquiry it was found that both were at the time intoxicated. The jury said,

225 221

"'Tain't the gentleman's fault--'tis the liquor!'"

Saw Captain F--l--m, U.S. Army, and Mr. H--d, on the subject of introducing British capital into California. Both these gentlemen possess immense property about and in San Francisco, and are entitled to full confidence in all their dealings; their views are connected with an extensive building scheme, so that by using brick instead of wood the danger of fire would be greatly diminished. Of the honesty and wisdom of their plans there can be no question; but unfortunately the Mariposa and Aqua Fria affairs have thrown all Californian proposals of a pecuniary nature into such disgrace that on 226 222 one in England will listen to any projects originated in the former country.

The papers inform us that His Majesty the King of the Sandwich Islands has in person opened the Houses of Legislature of that group. This is the very essence of burlesque; there are three or four English and American individuals who monopolize the government of the Islands; these gentlemen fill the office of Secretaries of State, they originate and uniformly carry all bills; they very carefully secure to themselves the management of the revenue, in whatever shape it is raised, which considering that His Majesty often appears publicly in a state of intoxication so early as ten o'clock in the forenoon, may be 227 223 commendable. There appears to be no Mr. Hume in the legislature to scrutinize the financial acts of the ministers, and altogether the affairs of the Hawaian Empire go on very harmoniously, never being startled but by a periodical ebulition of the desire of the American United States to depose King Tamchamea, hoist the "Glorious Stars and Stripes" upon his dominions, and convert them into another American State.

After all, it would be much better that these islands were an American State, or any state owning civilization, than remain as they are, ruled by a fool and drunkard, nominally, with no chance of benefit by the elevation of any native successor, and their resources chiefly appropriated to satisfy private cupidity.

228 224

Saw F--r to-day about the Dicksburgh purchases. It seems the legislature have passed two bills, one prohibiting leases of longer extent than eleven years; so a man may not do what he likes with his own in this "free" country; the other taxing every foreign miner three dollars per month, and rendering him incompetent to appear in court upon mining questions unless it has been paid. There is nothing unfair in this; as for the first, it is evaded by giving a lease for ten years, with the right of holding the property at its expiration for ten years longer.

In the afternoon I embarked on board the "Bragdon" steamer for Sacramento. Nothing but a bed in the state-room, in which I had to sleep; at last, and with much entreaty, I got a tin pan for a basin, and a small jug of water--these comprised 229 225 the private lavatory; certainly outside there were two tin pans, a water jug, one long revolving towel, with a hairbrush and comb hung on a nail--all for public use. Got to Sacramento early in the morning, and went to the Orleans hotel.

To Marysville next day. Met the MacD--lls, and arranged to visit "Brown's Valley" with them and M--tl--d. We examined this place and Spring Valley more minutely. I am sure the quartz is superior; the want of a running stream is the objection. Called on Mr. V--g--n, whom we found at his country seat, otherwise a canvas tent under an oak tree; he says that deer, quails, hares and pigeons abound in his vicinity

230 226

Passed the night at the "Spring Valley Hotel;" a room given up to M--tl--d and myself.

In the morning went again to the tent, and was taken by Mr. V--g--n to see the springs. They are in the summer mere mudholes. Water in the valley no doubt could be got by forming a deep reservoir, but I scarcely think enough could be obtained for the continuous working of a steam engine, amalgamation, &c., during the dry season. Mr. V--g--n says it can--but he wants to sell the quartz here.

Started with Maitland early for the Keystone. Nothing was ever so 231 227 harassing as the sand-flies which at this season scour the prairies. They are scarcely visible, being a very minute black fly; it lodges under the rim of the hat, and creates an intolerable irritation all round, and especially about the poll and ears. If the hat is raised for an instant, myriads are imprisoned by putting it on again, and then the misery is complete; the whole of the hair feels alive, there is an incessant desire to rub the head; but the certainty of adding an immensely strong reinforcement to the already confined assailants, dissipates the desire for a short time. The traveller is under the necessity of bearing an infliction half maddening in its nature, with the full certainty of rendering it worse by attempting to relieve himself. A thin veil should always be used at this period; we 232 228 substituted our pocket-handkerchiefs when too late. Everything has an end, including the persecution by sand-flies; their licence to worry travellers appears to terminate where the prairie meets the first range of mountains.

M--tl--d had an execrable horse; nothing could force or induce the animal to move beyond a slow, shuffling trot, diversified by frequent palpable trips, threatening a fall. This animal prolonged our sufferings amongst the sand-flies much; thanks to this brute, we only reached the Keystone long after darkness had set in.

Some tragic events have been perpetrated on the road we travelled. Very 233 229 recently, a teamster or waggoner, who had been carrying stores to the mountains, was returning with his waggon, and when he had entered a gorge leading to a small valley, three men rode up to him; without saying a word, one of them threw the noose of his lasso over his head, galloped away dragging the teamster along the ground until he had with his companions reached a secluded spot. The wretched man, though already dead, was brutally stabbed and cut.

Two other men were walking at the time, near the same place, on their way to the mountain "diggings;" they met the deserted waggon, observed its confused state, and noticing the track which had been made by the dragged body, followed it into a ravine to which it led. There they were attacked by the 234 230 murderers; the youngest appeared to have been "lassoed," and to have fallen an easy victim. The other was a powerfully-made man, and from the manner in which his hands were cut, as well as from the number of stabs his body sustained, he appears to have fought for his life with great desperation.

The country had for some time been reduced into such order under the influence of "Judge Lynch," that people had thrown aside their pistols and rifles, making their journies, like these three murdered men, unarmed; the result of which was, the renewal of murders and robberies throughout California. Until this had happened, I never carried arms; but afterwards, whenever my saddle was put on the horse, the pistols were also in the holsters, capped and loaded. No less 235 231 than seven men were murdered in nine days in this particular vicinity; and to this day the place bears the name of the "Murderer's Pass."

Both M--tl--d and myself were well ready for our beds; his was made as before told, by spreading a canvas tent upon the floor, on which, after an impromptu supper, no great things by-the-bye, he laid down, and I upon my own bed.

This day was employed principally in examining the quartz brought from Spring and Brown's Valleys; it shows a highly-remunerative amount of gold.

H--y will go to England, to try if he can forward the loan views of 236 232 Captain F--l--m and Mr. H--d: they have offered a very handsome sum to defray his expenses to England.

The proprietors of the Dicksburgh mill and quartz lodes came to me, bringing their papers, titles, &c. They think everything is now done, and are quite surprised at my expressing my intention to hand them over to a lawyer for inspection; if found to be all right, they are to receive twenty thousand, five hundred dollars for the whole property--a small sum, if Mr. D--s is correct in his opinions.

The twenty seventh of May--the heat is excessive; the mosquitoes innumerable. While I am writing Mr. D--s is flapping my head and face with a 237 233 pocket-handkerchief to keep them off; they are small and black, but strangely persecuting and venomous.

Left the Keystone for San Francisco, in hopes of finding funds sent out by the Directory.

At Marysville by half-past six; Steamer Camanche going down. A waggon drove up to the Tremont hotel, where I was; a placard in front announced that it was for sale.

Any one can be an auctioneer in the United States, so the driver now assumed that office. In order that greater publicity might be acquired, he drove the waggon through every street in the city, exclaiming, in his loudest and apparently passionate tone--

"Seven hundred and seventy-five dollars only I am offered for this splendid 238 234 waggon, team, and harness! Seven hundred and seventy-five only! Will you give me eight hundred?"

This appeal was to the general population.

Messrs. G--d--n and D--k, part proprietors of the Keystone lode, came down this morning; they had travelled thirty-seven miles, they told me, to see a man hung at Marysville, and were very "riled" because the execution had been deferred till July.

Arrived at Sacramento, I changed into the Antelope, a very good steamer, going to San Francisco.

On the voyage, something went wrong in the machinery: this is common in 239 235 American steam boats, nothing is looked at till it breaks; if a man fall over-board, the Captain only asks--

"Has that man paid his passage?"

If he has, then--

"Go a-head! I did not put him over-board."

At San Francisco at eleven o'clock at night, two hours after time. Next morning shown some Queen Charlotte Island quartz at Messrs. Gray and Esterleys; it is, so far as I have seen, certainly very good.

This is a lovely day, terminating the month.

At a ball, given by the British Consul to celebrate the Queen's birthday, 240 236 H--p--n asked a young lady to dance the next polka with him; she replied--

"No sirra, I never promise a-head; first come, first served, is my ticket!"

241 237
CHAPTER XI.

JUNE.--TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN SYMONDS.

THE summer cold winds and sea fogs have begun in earnest to day. It is blowing a perfect gale: one side of the street intensely hot, when it happens to be sheltered from the wind; the other side cold in proportion, if sheltered from the sun.

I affix (extracted from the "New York Herald") a beautiful tribute, offered 242 238 by a few American gentlemen to the gallantry of my poor friend Symonds, who commanded and died in the ill-fated "Amazon." This shows that he did what the Captain of the American steamer "Cheroke" dare not attempt, and thereby conveyed the passengers and treasure in safety to that vessel, when the natives would not allow an American boat to come on shore. The natives were incensed at the Americans having monopolised the business of Chagres, and rose against them; a desultory contest was carried on for some days.

The passengers and treasure arrived, and, but for Symonds, many of the first would have been killed, the latter plundered. His gallantry was fully appreciated by the Americans, who 243 239 benefitted by it; but the press of San Francisco was indignant at the intervention of the British steamer!

"It will be recollected by our readers that during the difficulties which occurred at Chagres in October last, a small party of returning Californians were placed in great peril on the Spanish side of the river at that place, from which they were relieved by the aid of Captain William Symonds, then commanding the English steamer Medway.

Believing that they owed the lives of some, if not all of their number, to the friendly exertions of that gentleman, and desirous to express their grateful recollection of his kindness, they subscribed some five hundred dollars for the manufacture of a suitable piece of silver to commemorate the service, which they 244 240 commissioned Messrs. Tiffany, Young, and Ellis to execute.

It is elegant in form, and of great size, being seventeen inches in diameter and sixteen inches in height to the top of the cover.

The lower portion represents waves of the sea, the border surrounding it being a massive rope cable.

On one side of the body of the bowl is presented a fine view of Chagres, taken from a point exhibiting the town on both sides of the river, the old fort, and the English steamer in the distance; while in the foreground are seen the British boats with the national flag at their sterns, bearing the rescued passengers out of the river.

On the other side is an escutcheon, supported on one hand by the British 245 241 Lion, on the other by the American Eagle.

Over all, the flags of the two nations are thrown, bound together by wreaths of olives, while surrounding the whole, branches of oak and laurel, emblems of strength and victory, crown the ornament of the shield.

Upon the escutcheon is the following inscription:--

PRESENTED TO

CAPTAIN WILLIAM SYMONDS,

Commanding the Royal Mail steamer Medway, by the following citizens of the United States, in token of their grateful remembrance of his generous assistance in extricating them from a situation of great danger, at Chagres, in New 246 242 Granada, on the twenty-third day of October, A.D. one thousand eight hundred and fifty-one.

F. W. Macondray,

A. Austin,

R. S. Dorr,

H. Grimes,

J. C. Hackett,

A. G. Abell,

E. Gorham,

C. T. Foote,

A. S. Hallett,

G. B. Newell,

T. J. Haile.,

Aquatic plants of various kinds spring from the bottom of the bowl, filling all the vacant spaces with their leaves and stems.

The brim is surrounded with a heavy hawser.

247 243

Two sea monsters, with their scaly tails artistically intertwined, form each handle; and the cover, also heavily embellished with a surrounding wreath of oak and laurel, has for a handle a massive anchor, entwined with a chain cable.

It is a subject of sorrowful regret to those who ordered this beautiful testimonial, that the kind-hearted officer for whom it was destined did not live to receive it.

Captain Symonds commanded the illfated steamer Amazon, which was burned at sea some weeks ago, and there is little reason to doubt that he perished with the many other victims of that sad calamity; but owing to the kind interest manifested by Mr. Robert Bunch, H.B.M. Vice Consul-for this State, the donors 248 244 have ascertained that Captain Symonds hes left a wife and children, and to them this evidence of grateful recollection of the husband and father will be forwarded by the next Cunard steamer, Mr. Bunch having kindly undertaken to procure a Treasury order for its admission into England, free of duty.

We subjoin a copy of a letter to Mrs. Symonds, which will accompany the testimonial:

New York, April 11, 1852.

"MY DEAR MADAM,

"In the month of October last, a few Americans (of whom I was one), returning from California, became greatly indebted at Chagres to Captain William 249 245 symonds, for his generous exertions in rescuing them from a position of great peril, as the accompanying letter addressed to him in November last will explain.

Desirous to testify our gratitude to him with something more enduring than mere words, upon our arrival in this city we directed the manufacture of the piece of silver which accompanies this letter, hoping that he would accept it in earnest of our thankful remembrance of his friendly services.

But Providence has willed that he should never know how gratefully we recollect his kindness.

Ere this testimonial was completed, and probably even before the letter above alluded to could reach him, a dread calamity had deprived you of a kind and 250 246 excellent husband--us of a generous and noble-hearted friend.

Believe me, madam, we have sympathized with you deeply in this heavy sorrow you have been called upon to bear.

Not one of us who did not feel the sincerest grief at learning the untimely end of our kind benefactor; and, though we well know how vain are all earthly consolations for such a loss, we hope that it may prove a source of some satisfaction to you, to know that a few strangers in a far-off land, who were perhaps indebted to him for the preservation of their lives, and restoration to those they loved, bear grateful testimony to his possession of those noble qualities which ever adorn the character of an English officer and gentleman.

251 247

Since an overruling Providence, in its inscrutable wisdom, has frustrated our intentions in regard to your husband, we beg that his wife will, for herself and her children, accept the accompanying testimonial of the sincerity of the sentiments above expressed.

I have the honour to be,

Madam, very respectfully,

Your obedient friend and servant,

ALEXANDER G. ABELL."

For himself and in behalf of--

F. W. Macondray,

Alexander Austin,

Hiram Grimes,

E. Gorham,

R. S. Dorr,

James C. Hackett,

T. J. Halle,

252 248

A. S. Hallett,

C. T. Foote,

I. B. Newell."

There is no use in saying anything more about the weather for four months; all that time will be sun, wind, dust, and fog all day. A fire in the evening often very comfortable, and extremely heavy dews.

Here I am, waiting till funds are sent out to enable me to begin getting to work upon Dicksburgh, if, indeed, Mr. D--s is right in saying that it is worth working. The time is rapidly flying away, and we are unwillingly idle; the day is passed in doing nothing; I am heartily tired of it.

Mr. D--s writes down to ask if sundry things shall be done? I write up in 253 249 reply, that no money has been sent out. He is a man of no personal means of amusing himself; for want of something better to do, I believe he would pull down his house to build it again!

254 250
CHAPTER XII.

MEETING AT COLUMBIA.

THE account of a meeting at Columbia has just reached me. The American labouring population desire to exclude the Chinese from the diggings, only because they will work for much less wages than themselves; the resolutions describe the feelings of the classes peculiarly indicated, most minutely; the sentiments of the meeting are cast in the most unqualified selfishness and anger. I believe 255 251 the American of California loves the country just in proportion to the amount of dollars and cents he can gain from it; the public officers prove this annually.

"At an adjourned mass meeting held at Columbia, May 8th, J. A. Palmer was chosen chairman, and Thadeus Hildreth, secretary. The following preamble and resolutions were adopted:

Whereas, notwithstanding the failure of the infamous `Cooley Bill' to receive the sanction of the Senate of the Commonwealth, a disposition still exists among certain ship-owners, capitalists, and merchants, to flood the State with degraded Asiatics, and fasten, without the sanction of law, the system of peonage on our social organization; and whereas, it is useless to expect at present any 256 252 efficient action, either on the part of Congress, or of the Legislature of California; therefore--

Resolved, That it is the duty of the miners to take the matter into their own hands, and apply such remedies as the exigencies of the case may seem to demand; to erect such barriers as shall be sufficient to check this Asiatic inundation that threatens to roll over the State, and turn back its waves on those who have set it in motion.

Resolved, That the capitalists, shipowners, merchants, and others, who are encouraging or engaged in the importation of these burlesques on humanity, would crowd their ships with the long-tailed, horned, and cloven-footed inhabitants of the infernal regions, and contend for their introduction into the mines 257 253 on an equality with American labourers, if they could add one farthing to the rates of freight, or dispose of one pound more of pork, or a few shillings' worth of rice, by the operation.

Resolved, That such men have no regard for California, or her true interests: They love her rocks and rills,Her woods and templed hills--

only in proportion to the amount of gold they can filch from the one, and the lumber they can obtain from the other.

Resolved, That no Asiatic, or South Sea Islander, shall be permitted to mine in this district, either for himself or for others, and that this resolution shall be part and parcel of our mining-laws.

258 254

Resolved, That a Committee of Vigilance, consisting of twenty, be appointed, whose business it shall be to see that the above resolution is carried out, and to correspond with the miners in the different districts of the southern mines, and endeavour to secure a thorough and efficient organization of the miners, for the purpose of protecting themselves from this influx of the degraded inhabitants of China and the islands of the Pacific.

Resolved, That we recommend the raising of a like committee in every mining district, and the appointment by them of county committees, who shall be empowered to take such steps as they may deem necessary, to secure unity and efficiency of action.

Resolved, That these resolutions be published in the `Sonore Herald,' 259 255 Stockton Journal,' the `Alta' and `Pacific' of San Francisco.

J. A. PALMER, President.

T. HILDRETH, Secretary."

Much talent is beginning to display itself in counterfeiting the gold "pepitas" found in the diggings. I was shown a piece of this manufacture to-day; it is an admirable imitation.

260 256
CHAPTER XIII.

ARRIVALS OF EMIGRANTS.--TONNAGE OF VESSELS.--IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF BULLION.

SAN FRANCISCO has now been a city less than three years, and here is subjoined a statistical account of the arrivals of emigrants; tonnage employed; and bullion exported; during three months.

Report of arrivals of emigrants from foreign and domestic ports during the months of March, April, and May, together with the tonnage of vessels arrived 261 257 during that time, and the amount of the imports and exports of bullion:

Arrivals during the months of March, April, and May .

Tons.

Steamers,American18,070

Ships,ditto8,713

Ships,Foreign16,919

Barks,American2,844

Barks,Foreign14,731

Brigs,American4,539

Brigs,Foreign6,934

Schooners,American2,106

Schooners,Foreign1,752

Total76,608

Recapitulation--Total amount of Tonnage .

American36,272

Foreign40,336

Total76,608

262 258

Arrival of Emigrants from Foreign Ports .

Males18,990

Females1,398

Children535

Total20,923

Bullion .

Dollars.

Import of bullion during the same period10,1208,28

Export of bullion as follows:

To Panama9,230,500

To Nicaragua108,071

To Valparaiso20,549

To Mexico1,000

To Honolulu12,000

To Peru4,000

To Calcutta2,500

To China155,350

Total9,533,970.

263 259

Although it must be remembered that this country suddenly became enabled to wield immense treasures, and therefore had the means of instantly obtaining all the inventions of modern times, together with the productions of every nation in the world, yet much is due to the energy of its present population, for the advanced state in which it now is. European capital has also been largely engaged here, and the principal mercantile firms are certainly those of the French and German empires.

264 260
CHAPTER XIV.

THE CITY DEBT.--THE JENNY LIND PURCHASE.--ACCOUNTS FROM THE "DIGGINGS."

THERE is great discontent amongst the San Francisco people upon the subject of the city debt; as yet, every mayoralty has been very conspicuous for its activity in making contracts, purchases, &c., all of which, it is alleged, have had a direct tendency to enrich the city councillors. The question in debate at this time, is the purchase of the "Jenny Lind" theatre, 265 261 for the purpose of converting it into a city-hall, for the exercise of aldermanic eloquence, &c. The two following letters have appeared, and it is not improbable that Judge Lynch may actually officiate in the council-chamber; what makes the matter worse, is the fact, that a proposal to build a most complete city-hall, for half the purchase-money of the theatre, has been sent in, but the council held out:

"THE JENNY LIND PURCHASE.

To the Editor of the Herald .

The purchase of the Jenny Lind certainly is a project which benefits the few at the expense of the many mechanics, merchants, and labourers generally, of San Francisco; it is a tax of about 266 262 five dollars to each citizen, if divided equally.

But this money put into the hands of a few men will make them rich. It would make one man very rich.

I certainly have no private interest at stake, and if the common council had taxed two millions of dollars, instead of two hundred thousand, upon the mechanics and labourers of San Francisco, it would not have affected me, because I have no property in the city to be taxed.

Nevertheless, in all my experience, I never knew a public body in any part of the United States to rush through a measure, in spite of their constituents, their petitions, public meetings, remonstrances, and unmistakeable wishes.

Public men in our government profess, 267 263 at least, to be controlled by the known wishes of the governed. But here, in San Francisco, there is a body holding the reins of city government, not by choice of the people, but in defiance of the people, and that by some legal crotchet at war with the moral sense.

Now, for my part, I would as soon live under the tyranny of the "Hounds" as under this species of tyranny. Why banish Sydney men, while such hold the reins of government?

Mr. Editor, the citizens of California, and particularly of San Francisco, are the best-taxed people on the whole habitable globe.

The city government of San Francisco is enormously expensive already.

Debt-ridden England does not impose such monstrous taxes as the citizens and 268 264 denizens of San Francisco pay. Much of our State and City taxation comes from mismanagement.

In my day I have witnessed bad legislation; I have seen bad laws bankrupt the great states of Pennsylvania, Illinois, Alabama, &c.

I have seen Mississippi repudiate her public debt!

I have seen these States impose taxes, and send around to the farmer, merchant, and mechanic, the hateful tax-gatherer, to collect their hard earnings to pay for reckless legislation!

Now, while we see every steamer carry away some official, who has accumulated a large fortune, by some two years' speculation in office; and while we see the current of legislation directed to personal ends, at the expense of the State at large, 269 265 what, let me ask, is to save California from the shackles of debt and bankruptcy, if not repudiation?

Who are our public servants or task-masters?

In many instances, they are composed of bankrupt demagogues and political hacks, run out in the old States, and flocking hither to live at the public expense, and to return home rich as soon as need be.

These men will manage elections, and fatten on us all, until the people shall throw party to the winds, and vote for no man who does not enjoy a fair reputation for honour and integrity.

Private honesty should be the test.

X. Y. Z."

270 266

"To the Editor of the Herald .

I have observed in your paper many communications, lately, in regard to the action of the council on the city-hall ordinance; but none seem to propose any measures which would be at all likely to influence those `honourable men' to retract or re-consider their acts.

We all know that they are men who have no good principles, and not sense enough to direct their bad ones into a politic course.

It is useless to recapitulate these facts.

Your suggestion in to-day's paper meets the hearty approval of many citizens.

Let a meeting en masse be called at two o'clock, on Wednesday 271 267 afternoon not for the purpose of forming resolutions, to be broken and disregarded as soon as the meeting shall adjourn, but to join into one party all opposed to this assumption of authority on the part of the council, and to agree to go together to the council-chamber, and eject those law-less fools at their first meeting, pledging mutual support and unity of action, and violence, if necessary, to those who trample on their rights.

Such, and such action only, will be felt.

LYNCH."

There are daily good accounts from the "diggings;" seventy thousand persons are supposed to be engaged there. In 1849, there were but two wretched 272 268 "adobe`" houses here, and some few more-wretched fishing-huts; now there is a housed population of thirty-five thousand, six well-built and commodious churches, with minor places of worship (if that can be called worship, which divides its attention on Sundays between the church, the bull-fight, and race-course). Judicial courts, town council, four theatres, three hundred and sixty-seven hotels, restaurants, &c.; tanks containing three hundred and forty-six thousand gallons of water:

GALLONS.

On the Plaza45,000

Corner of Montgomery and Washington17,000

Corner of Montgomery and Commercial26,000

Corner of Montgomery and California35,000

273 269

Corner of Sacramento and Kearney25,000

Corner of Jackson and Kearney26,500

Kearney, facing Pine16,000

Corner of Dupont and Sacramento42,000

Corner of Dupont and Pacific33,000

Corner of Stockton and Pacific24,000

Corner of Bush and Montgomery25,000

California Engine-house14,000

Sacramento, above Stockton18,000

346,000

274 270

There is also an extremely well-organized system in the fire-engine department, two hospitals, an orphan asylum, and sundry other useful institutions.

275 271
CHAPTER XV.

AN INDIAN EXECUTION.

THE account of an Indian execution appears in the next page; these trials take place by no other authority than that held by the sovereign citizens! A man is found murdered, an armed deputation visits the Indian ranche near, the culprits are demanded, the chief knows nothing of the murder, but he will make enquiry. A day or two elapses, and he 276 272 hands over some wretched old Indian as the offender; he is tried by Lynch law, and, as a matter of course, hung up.

The only proof of the murder having been committed by an Indian, is the fact of Indian arrows having been found stuck in the body of the dead man.

It is now known that other murderers have so pierced the corpse, to lead the feeling against the Indian.

Indians Hung at Rough and Ready .--Two Indians were hung on Tuesday, at Rough and Ready, for the murder of an American by the name of Emanuel Comstock. The murder was 277 273 committed some three weeks since. The body of the murdered man was not found until Sunday last, pierced through with an arrow. Immediate steps were taken to find the murderers, which proved successful.

On Tuesday morning, a judge and twelve jurymen were appointed from the people, and a trial commenced. Mr. Whiteside was attorney for the prosecution, and Mr. Lyons acted in behalf of the prisoners. A fair trial was given them, without the usual legal forms. The proof of their guilt was conclusive, and they had to suffer the penalty of death.

Comstock was from Mineral Point, Wis.

278 274

A place aptly called "Rich Bar" invites much notice.

"Rich Bar is about six miles from Neal's Ranche, on Butte Creek, and although not just discovered, still there is room for a great many to do well here.

Some of the miners are making as high as fifty to sixty dollars per day; and all that work, as far as I can learn, make from sixteen dollars to an ounce per day."

The steamer "Winfield Scott" came in, and reports the mail steamer from Panama near; so every American is in the greatest state of excitement, and 279 275 many hats are betted on the time of her arrival.

The inauguration, I suppose it may be called, of a fire-engine took place this day. It had very recently arrived from New York, and having been duly brushed up after its voyage, was now introduced to the city in which it was "bound" to operate.

A procession of the Fire Companies was formed; each company dragged its respective engine. The men were dressed in blue trowsers and red woollen frocks, and wore leather helmet-shaped hats; the engines were tastefully decked out with wreaths of flowers, such as could 280 276 be obtained from the vicinity of the city, and a band preceded the whole. It is certainly great folly to drag fire-engines, or any other heavy thing, about unnecessarily--but these people must have a show.

The members of these Fire Companies receive no pay, but are in the enjoyment of some immunities relieving them from city duties of some kind, and they turn out most readily upon the first alarm of fire.

When working the engine, the captain stands on it, and is incessantly roaring out some exciting phrase, the origin of his own humour, through a trumpet, the effect of which is not lost upon the "citizens" each of which body cheers his fellow on. The uproar is beyond conception, and doubtless has caused the 281 277 loss of many buildings, which calmer and methodical management would have saved. During the procession, it stops at all the leading restaurants to take a drink; "cock-cobler, mint julep, or ginsling," as it may be.

The Atlantic mail has arrived. As this vessel approaches the wharf, a dense crowd collects there; even before she touches it, many of the more active leap on board. Presently she is made fast, one narrow plank is passed from the ship to the shore--from this moment all order and control ceases. The captain and officers "are nowhere," the crowd tries to rush into the ship, and the passengers try to force their 282 278 way out. Here and there a "citizen" drops into the water, and he must help himself out of it as he can, for no one minds him . Happy is the passenger who can fall in behind a trunk making its transit from the ship; he of course assists and bears up the trunk carrier all he possibly can, for his own success depends upon that of the trunk. After about a quarter of an hour's pushing, swearing, and struggling, the trunk perhaps safely lands, and the passenger behind it, or in that time both may be in the water, or driven back.

As for the interference of a policeman to enforce some little and very desirable order, such a measure would be considered repugnant to the rights of a republican.

These rights, interpreted by an American, enable him to do just as much 283 279 as his strength will enable him to do! so, as the passengers are the weakest party, they generally have to stay on board till the curiosity furor of the crowd has subsided.

This is one of the delights of the one-sided freedom of the "everlasting States."

284 280
CHAPTER XVI.

PRESCRIPTION LAW.

THE following is the "prescription" law passed by the general legislature, for the State of California.

"1st. That any person who is the head of a family and a citizen of the United States, or any person who is the head of a family, and had become a citizen prior to the first day of January, 1852, as required by the 285 281 naturalization laws of the United States, shall from and after the passing of this act, be entitled to enter, free of cost, one quarter section of vacant and unappropriated Public Lands, or a quantity equal thereto, to be located in a body, in conformity with the legal subdivision of the Public Lands, and after the same shall have been surveyed.

2nd. The person applying for the benefit of the act, to make an affidavit that he or she is the head of a family, and is not the owner of any estate in land at the time of such application, and has not disposed of any estate in land to obtain the benefit of the act.

3rd. Section refers to the duties of the Land Registrar.

4th. All lands acquired under the provision of the act, shall in no event 286 282 become liable to the satisfaction of any debt or debts contracted prior to the issuing of the patent; therefore--

5th. If at any time after filing the affidavit required, and before the expiration of five years, it shall be proved that the person locating on such lands shall have changed his or her residence, or abandoned the said entry for more than six months at any one time, then the land to revert back to the Government, and be disposed of as other public lands are now by law.

6th. If any individual now a resident of any state or territory, and not a citizen of the United States; but at the time of making application for the benefit of the act, shall have filed a declaration of intention so to do, as required by the naturalization laws of the United 287 283 States, and shall become a citizen of the same before the issuing of the patents, as made and provided for in this act, shall be placed upon an equal footing with the native-born citizen.

7th. No individual is permitted to make more than one entry under this act.

This law indisputably has operated to clear an immense amount of land in the United States in a very short period.

It induces emigration from other countries, because the emigrant feels that he can get an immediate means of locating, without fear of being disturbed, and consequently he can lay out any little capital he may possess upon that which is his own property.

It is in every way much preferable 288 284 to the practice which has obtained frequency in our Colonial disposition of the waste lands. Granting immense tracts of land to individuals has done more to retard the maturity of many of our Colonies, than could have been effected by any other means; and the practice of selling by auction at the upset price gives speculators and jobbers enormous opportunities of completely perverting the good intentions of the government, supposing any to have existed beyond that of benefitting some influential person.

The endeavour to colonize by granting these large tracts to such persons, who in scarcely any instance ever did more than visit them once in their lives, has been found to be the most productive of 289 285 discontent in the colonies, and disloyalty to the mother country.

The landlords employ necessarily agents; these demand the payment of the rent for which land is leased. The payments are then more frequently made in labour on the agent's own land than in any other manner. He screws the tenant, apparently for the landlord's interest; the tenant, who is generally some very ignorant Irishman, or else an English or Scotch labourer, feels the weight of the lease system, and thinks it very hard that he cannot have a grant of fifty or an hundred acres, when some great noble or well-allied commoner holds a grant of some twenty thousand or more. Hence the discontent and disloyalty.

The United States prescription law, on the contrary, induces an attachment 290 286 to the Government, because that government has by this law pointed out the road to the dollar and cent; a sure method of rivetting American approbation.

291 287
CHAPTER XVII.

STEAM-BOAT COMBINATION.

THERE is a combination amongst the steam-boats running between San Francisco and Sacramento.

The object is to force passengers to pay ten dollars for a passage to Sacramento, and five dollars for a state room; and in order to induce the smaller boats to lay up, the combination consents to pay one dollar a-head for each 292 288 passenger they receive on board; so the owners of the small boats receive so much for doing nothing--which is the preferable way of getting money.

The "state room" of an American steamer is a burlesque upon state.

It is a space of about six feet by seven, has three bed-places in it, and one wash-hand stand; through an opening, and during the night, the light is borrowed from a lamp, which can ill afford to lend it, that hangs up in the saloon.

For this "state" you have to pay five dollars, unless you do not object to one or two companions, in which case you pay proportionally less, and most likely when you awake at daylight find the feet of your companion located immediately over you, disgreeably disposed of with reference to yourself, and 293 289 the owner of them spitting on the floor, preluding each discharge with some most harsh sound, giving evidence of the depth from which the objectionable material has been torn.

294 290
CHAPTER XVIII.

TWO MEN SHOT IN COURT--A MEETING OF THE CITIZENS--ANOTHER HANGING SCRAPE ANTICIPATED--TREMENDOUS EXCITEMENT.

IN the correspondence of the "Herald," under the date of Sacramento, June 16, 1852, is the following:--

"Our city has been thrown into considerable excitement, in consequence of an unfortunate and disgraceful affray that 295 291 occurred in the Court of Sessions, about twelve o'clock to-day.

Judge Wilson, Associate Judge of the Court of Sessions, it appears, had said something to the disparagement of Mr. McKune, to which the latter took exceptions.

This morning, immediately after the adjournment of the Court, Mr. McKune demanded an explanation and retraction.

As Judge Wilson stepped from the bench, in the presence of the other Judges, Mr. McKune insisted upon an apology.

Judge Wilson declined apologising, and Mr. McKune, backed by a fellow by the name of Caulfield, and others, attacked the Judge in the Court House, and struck him over the head with a cane.

296 292

Judge Wilson, having a sword-cane in his hand, drew it, and thrust through the body of Mr. McKune.

Mr. McDonald, the keeper of the jail, rushed between the combatants, caught Judge Wilson, and prevented him from doing further injury.

McDonald was between Wilson and McKune.

Here it was supposed this disgraceful affair was ended; but not so.

While McDonald was holding Judge Wilson, Caulfield drew a revolver and fired it three several times at Wilson, the last shot taking effect.

The ball entered the body of McDonald.

The wound is not considered dangerous.

Fears are entertained that McKune will not survive.

297 293

A stong and bitter feeling is aroused against Caulfield, and there is a strong probability that he will be summarily dealt with.

These are the facts as related by persons in the room during the affray. I was not present, and can only give you this account.

At a few minutes before one o'clock P.M., a man went through our city, summoning the citizens to meet en masse at the Orleans Hotel, to take into consideration, as the notice was worded, `the recent murders committed in our midst.'

At one o'clock, between eight hundred and a thousand persons assembled.

Judge Brown was called to the chair.

Loud cries were then heard for Dr. 298 294 Spaulding, who appeared on the stand, and explained the object of the meeting.

A committee of fifteen was appointed to take charge of the prison brig, to prevent all escapes

A committee of three was also appointed to investigate the whole matter.

I write in haste, amidst the greatest excitement and confusion I have witnessed for years.

Twenty Minutes later .--The crowd at the Orleans is increasing rapidly.

A rumour has reached us that McKune is dead.

A brother of McDonald has just informed the meeting that the wound has not been probed.

Caulfield is the leader of the squatters in this country, and desperate efforts 299 295 will doubtless be made to save him. I think it will be useless.

There is a strong feeling against him; and judging from the feeling manifested, he will be dead before night.

I will keep this open until the latest possible moment.

Half-past one P.M.--The investigating Committee has not yet reported to the meeting.

The Committee of fifteen have taken possession of the prison brig.

It is feared the squatters will make an attempt to release Caulfield.

In haste,

D. W. G.

Quarter to Two .--McKune is dead. McDonald is lying in a critical condition."

300 296

The weather is beginning to grow extremely hot, which possibly may contribute to explain the pleasanteries of an American Court at Sacramento. It is "a great country!"

301 297
CHAPTER XIX.

SAN MATHEO.

THIS morning Mr. H--d called for me in his buggy, and drove me to his residence called San Matheo, about thirty miles south of San Francisco.

The first ten miles of the road is dreary enough, a short wiry herbage struggling to thrive upon a thin strata of soil which covers the slopes of the mountains, upon which huge masses of rock, generally 302 298 greenstone, incessantly break through; and during this distance the cold wind and fog of a San Francisco summer extends a cheerless influence.

The remaining twenty miles the road traverses the foot of some wooded mountains, fertile land, and a heavenly climate, so short a limit has the wind and fog just mentioned.

When we left San Francisco we were both wrapped in cloaks; in an hour's time our cloaks were thrown off, and we were enjoying nothing more than a breeze tempered by a delicious sunshine.

Mr. H--d has at San Matheo a residence very nicely situated just where the slope of the mountain terminates and the plain begins; it is pleasantly placed amongst evergreen oaks, and some magnificent bay trees, which here grow to the 303 299 size of timber trees, and throw a most delightful shade around. There is a stream of water winding through the plain, and flows very happily near to the house.

So far, Nature has done her part, and indeed has added a splendid view of the upper part of the bay of San Francisco, Monte Diablo and its mountain range towering in grand elevation on the other side.

I wish I could say as much in praise of the interior, where Nature gives up her reign to man.

We arrived at four in the afternoon, and to my surprise I found San Matheo to be a boarding house as well as a gentleman's country retreat.

There were some three or four married parties boarding there, and at six we all sat down to what is here called "supper;" for me, it was dinner.

304 300

At this meal the farming people came in from their work, not very clean, and took their places at the table; everything was huddled on at the same time, and to roast beef an invitation was given to unite ham, chicken, fruit pie, pickles, &c.

Oh! this American table-d'hoˆte! I would rather live in a tent under a tree, than be exposed to its disgusting combinations.

The meal being hurried over as if every one had some vast object to attain, brandy and cigars are produced!--a climax very abhorrent in my opinion.

Withdrawing to go to bed under pretence of fatigue, a legion of fleas commence their operations upon your person, and the night is passed in severely rubbing oneself in hopes of inflicting death, as each new wound is felt, or as the insect makes its tour about you.

305 301

There is no retreat from these pests; they lurk in the folds of your linen, and wherever you are, every now and then you grasp a portion of your clothes, then heavily rub about the region where the tickling run of the flea is felt.

The next morning Mr. H--d and myself rode to examine some rocks reputed to bear gold, which they certainly do not, and then returned to San Francisco.

"Gentlemen," for there are no mere "men" here, are described as "Drunks" when in liquor, and brought up for judgment. An example is here extracted.

Drunks .--Three persons, whose passion for liquor got the better of their judgment, were picked up in the streets on Sunday. 306 302 They were discharged, upon promising to be more careful in future."

It is strange that a nation professing to repudiate distinctive titles should be the first to avail itself of every means in its power to use and bestow any which it can grasp most eagerly; so first we find the term "gentleman" applied to waiters, draymen, &c.

I asked one day the locality of a mercantile house, at which I had some business to execute. The reply was,

"Well, I don't know, but I guess that dark gentleman will tell you," pointing to a negro who had a shoe-blacking establishment in the street.

So also, when you ask who is to plead a case in court, you are told Mayor or Colonel some one or another. A banker, a most gentlemanlike and upright man, 307 303 who holds a high position in the monied as well as social world, is styled "General," though probably he never even saw a parade, much less ever had a military appointment; and as for judges, almost every lawyer is one.

END OF VOL. I.

J. BILLING, PRINTER, WOKING, SURREY.

308

CALIFORNIA:

ITS GOLD AND ITS INHABITANTS.

BY THE AUTHOR

OF "SEVEN YEARS ON THE SLAVE COAST OF AFRICA,"

"PEREGRINE SCRAMBLE," &c.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

THOMAS CAUTLEY NEWBY, PUBLISHER,

30, WELBECKSTREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE.

1856.

309

CALIFORNIA;

ITS GOLD AND ITS INHABITANTS.

CHAPTER I.

AMERICAN JUSTICE.

THE following account of an execution for theft, appeared in the "Union" today.

"The `Union' learns from a correspondent at Diamond Springs, in El Dorado county, that a man named William 310 2 Hibbard was shot at Pleasant Valley, for horse stealing, on the eighteenth instant.

About two weeks since, a horse and mule were stolen from Dr. Slaughter's, and the mule having a broken hoof, they were enabled to track the thief to Sly Park Creek.

The party followed the track in Carson Valley, where they found the horse in a corral belonging to Mr. Redding, and the man who brought him there in the house.

The party arrested him, and brought him before Dr. Slaughter, who is a magistrate, found him guilty, and sentenced him to be hung.

The choice was granted to him of being hung or shot; and he chose the latter.

He made a confession, acknowledging his guilt, and implicating others.

311 3

At the appointed hour for execution he was led out, took a drink, informed the crowd that he was of good family, and that this was his first offence.

He refused to have his eyes bandaged, and directed the six executioners to stand close and make sure work of it.

At the word he received three balls into his breast, and died instantly.

A physician claimed the head, as he had made a bargain with the man for it before he was shot, and quietly pulling out a bowie-knife, whacked off the head, and placing it in a sack, marched off with it.

A shallow grave was then dug, and the headless trunk tumbled into it.

The unfortunate man was from Illinois, where he leaves a wife and child."

How prominently conspicuous is the 312 4 civilization of the United States, both in the execution and its details, combined with the Editor's style of description!! It is absurd to say that a people possessed of natural good principle and feeling could, by having transferred themselves to another country, instantly become so lost to all humanity and decency. The very Editor appears to enjoy the brutal conduct of the Doctor, very appropriately named "Slaughter."

More of the same revolting system is stated to have taken place at "Cache Creek," without one syllable of disapproval. I annex the extracts which appeared in the paper on the same day.

"Lynching at Cache Creek .--A man by the name of Dunn was arrested on Thursday last, on Cache Creek, on suspicion of 313 5 stealing twenty-five thousand dollars from Diggs and Anderson.

He was hung three times, in the attempt to extort a confession, the third time nearly proving fatal.

No discovery was made, and he was discharged."

"Affray at Cache Creek .--The peaceful settlement of Cache Creek was somewhat aroused, on Wednesday last, by a difficulty which nearly proved fatal to one of the parties.

A man by the name of Adams, and another by the name of Tuttle, had a difficulty about a settler's claim. Adams obtained judgment against the latter, who, however, persisted in remaining on the claim.

Adams then moved Tuttle's tent, when Tuttle moved back again.

314 6

Upon a second attempt on the part of Adams to put him off, Tuttle drew a pistol and fired at Adams, who immediately drew in his turn, and fired at Tuttle, who had fled behind Mr. Rosebeger, the ball passing through the flesh of Mr. Rosebeger's arm, and entering Tuttle's body. The latter still lives, although the wound is considered mortal."

As a set-off to the foregoing, the following notices are inserted; a step indisputably in the right path, both at San Francisco and at Marysville.

"The common council of Marysville have passed an ordinance closing stores on the Sabbath, and prohibiting theatrical entertainments or bull-fights."

"Dance Houses, &c .--Messrs. De Witt and Harrison and other leading firms of 315 7 our city, have petitioned the Common Council to pass an ordinance providing that dance houses, theatres, billiard saloons, and bowling alleys, shall be closed on Sundays."

Going to San Francisco from Sacramento this day, a number of American and Mexican Ladies (as women of any calling are termed by the Americans) were on board; the attention paid to these persons equalled any that I have seen offered to those whose moral lives demand and merit on all occasions. At the supper table they were placed to the right and left of the Captain of the steamer, who sat at the head of the table. It is 316 8 to the American here, of no consequence what amount of virtue or vice is enveloped in the female attire; the respect shown to each is the same, and as shamelessly.

317 9
CHAPTER II.

TO PLACERVILLE.

RETURNING from San Francisco, at Sacramento I took the stage to Placerville, a journey of about seventy miles.

Of all public conveyances I ever encountered, the stages here take the lead, in discomfort and vulgarity. The carriage is either a lumbering, old-fashioned thing, constantly reminding one of that in which Sir Walter Scott places Lady Margaret Bellenden, or otherwise it is 318 10 a waggon on springs; as many persons as can jam themselves in, do so; they have no regard for those who are already in possession of seats; but, as there are no divisions, the new passenger coolly gets into the vehicle, and placing himself between two others, sits down, and relies upon his own weight making the other two sufficiently uncomfortable, to aid him in establishing himself between them.

They all smoke, and unceremoniously discharge occasionally across you, and in every other respect are unusually dirty citizens; and, for some incomprehensible reason, when stages meet, the recognition of friends is announced by enormously swearing at each other, and in language that places blasphemy, if possible, as a light offence, comparatively.

319 11

The road to Placerville is the best I have travelled. About twenty-five miles lie across the plain, the remainder is a gradual ascent, each mountain increasing in magnitude, till, through the forest of straggling oaks and pines mingled together, the heights over Placerville are gained.

The road passes through several very rich "diggings," and even the surface-soil supplies a great amount of gold; this earth is thrown up like beds in a garden, a path is left between each, to mark the respective property, and so it is left till the winter provides the water for washing out the metal.

Placerville itself is extremely fertile in good quartz-lodes; but the want of water precludes their being worked but at too 320 12 great an expense. The town is one long street, containing some seven hundred or eight hundred inhabitants, but sustaining a mining population of probably five thousand.

The mining community have it all their own way in the mountains, and if there is reason to suppose that gold may be found in the soil of the streets, they are immediately dug up, and the travelling vehicles may find another road as best they may; the miners will even undermine the houses, sometimes they will prop them up, but generally that is left for the owner to do; this is "liberty!"

"A few days since, a party of miners took up claims in the streets of Weaverville.

Much excitement was caused by the 321 13 movement, and merchants and business-men were among the first in staking out claims as soon as it commenced.

A number of holes have been dug, but we are not yet advised of any very rich results.

Many of the races with which the hills in the immediate vicinity of the town are worked, are no longer well supplied with water.

Miners are consequently going to the main streams, that are usually too well filled with water, to be worked with advantage.

In consequence of this movement among the miners, Weaverville does not wear as lively an appearance as it did a short time since."

322 14

Some very beautiful marble, of two descriptions, has been sent to the governor, who showed it to me; it is black and yellow, susceptible of a high polish. Some of it is to be sent to the States, to be used in the Washington monument.

I dined to-day with Mr., commonly called "Colonel" G--n. Salmon, mutton, pudding, and coffee, all crammed down one's throat together; then cigars and brandy, in a small close room. Made an excuse to get away, and walked about in the air, till the execrable smell of tobacco had left my clothes.

This morning Dr. R--th--d W--r 323 15 called: he wants me to get the company I act for, to grope the San Joachim for gold, by means of diving-bells. I believe he has good ground for the project, but the expense would be too heavy. He smells like an old cigar, confound him

324 16
CHAPTER III.

THE LAND OF FREEDOM!

MORE specimens of the highly-civilized state of the "great Republic," the seat of true freedom!

"A short time since, a white man, whose soubriquet was `Sheep Jack' (name not remembered), was murdered on that stream.

A party of some thirty men, from Salmon, then congregated at the trading-post, at Orleans bar, their object being to 325 17 get a reinforcement to attack the Indians at their fishing-ground, they numbering from one thousand to twelve hundred strong.

Here a tragedy took place, that at once put an end to the expedition.

At the store, while conversing, drinking, &c., preliminary to an organization, a dispute arose (hard feelings having previously existed) between Martin Tony and a man whose soubriquet was `Woolly,' alias Thomas Hinton, from Kentucky.

Woolly, who had made himself notorious as a character to be dreaded, after a little quarrelling, shot Martin through the body; he lived only fifteen hours after!

At the instant, a cry of `Shoot him! shoot him!' resounded through the crowd, 326 18 and a man known as Anderson, whose name is Henry Atkins, pursued him.

Woolly, on finding himself pressed, turned, as he rounded a tree, when Atkins, drawing a horse-pistol, shivered his heart with its ball. He never moved.

This put an end to the expedition, and the brave and true men who, with a patriotic spirit, had visited the place with a view of wreaking vengeance on a band of murderers, placed their rifles on their shoulders and returned home. Not, however, without first holding court on Atkins. Verdict--`An honourable acquittal.'"

State Finances .--During the month of June the sum of ninety-seven 327 19 thousand, six hundred and eighty dollars was paid into the State treasury for school-lands, and the amount of scrip received to be funded under the act of the last session of the legislature, is one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, making a total of two hundred and forty-seven thousand, six hundred and eighty dollars. In addition to this, applications and affidavits have been filed for seven thousand, six hundred and twenty acres of school-lands, for which the warrants have not been issued.

It is to be hoped, that when the schools are in operation, freedom will be better understood and defined.

The Indians are frequently very troublesome, although all the murders by 328 20 arrows have not been committed by them.

Killed by Indians .--A man named Fry was killed near Neal's ranche, in attempting to recover some cattle stolen by the Checo Indians.

He was shot through the neck with an arrow.

A miner was found dead near Shasta city, with an arrow sticking in his breast.

The Indian Difficulties .--The quarter-master's train has just returned to Savage's farm, on the Fresno, for supplies. Their mules are entirely worn down, from fatiguing marches over the mountains.

They report the command lying by, for supplies.

329 21

Lieutenant Moore, with four privates, was out reconnoitering for a new road, and came across three Indians.

One of those Indians showed some hostility, in attempting to steal a pair of pistols from Lieutenant Moore--so they shot him.

As soon as the train joins the command with supplies, that body will proceed at once into Yeosemite Valley, where the hostile tribes are supposed to be assembled.

The post at Fort Miller is in charge of a sergeant and four privates, with a few sick. They are so effectually barricaded, as to keep out all hostile Indians.

A German, called Charley, left the Milk ranche for his usual place of work, Oregon Gulch, and in about two hours 330 22 after he left, Mr. Davis went to the Gulch, where he found the body of the deceased pierced with fourteen arrows, the sharp point of his pick driven into his cheek just below the eye, and his breast cut open with a spade. Many of the arrows were broken off in the body, and the spade was lying by his side.

Upon examination of his pistol, it was found that he had fired twice at his assailants, but without effect.

They did not rob his person of anything, as his pistol was found near him, and a purse containing four hundred and sixty dollars was found in his pocket.

A few nights previous to this, some thirty head of mules and horses were stolen by the Indians, from a ranche in the same neighbourhood.

331 23

We are informed, also, that two days prior to this murder, while the miners at this same Gulch were at work, the Indians went to their tents and houses, and stole all the pistols, guns, and knives that could be found.

An unfortunate affray occurred in the El Dorado, between a man named Fields and a Mexican, which terminated in the death of the latter.

Some words passed between them concerning the game at which the Mexican was betting.

It is said the Mexican drew a knife, and made demonstrations towards Fields, upon which Fields discharged his pistol three times, two balls taking effect.

332 24

The Mexican reeled, and fell a lifeless corpse.

Fields is in custody, awaiting his trial.

Horse Thieves--Two Mexicans Shot .--A fatal affray occurred near Carnduff's ranche, in this county.

A number of Mexicans had stolen a mule and numerous other articles, the property of Mr. Carnduff, and a Mr. Roberts, a young man about twenty years of age, went out in pursuit of the scoundrels. He killed one, dangerously wounded another, and frightened the rest.

He behaved with great courage, and, at the same time, great prudence in the 333 25 matter, and has done good service in the neighbourhood in which he resides."

Some more murders and summary executions are reported; the knife and pistol appear to be always ready in the hand of the American. Such deliberate murders, such unscrupulous executions, and such heartless descriptions of each, never distinguished any nation, excepting the "model Republic!"

334 26
CHAPTER IV.

JULY.--ANNIVERSARY OF THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.

THE fourth of July, of which the celebration annually and properly engages the mind of every American, was "put through" this day, the fifth, yesterday being Sunday.

The procession moved from Montgomery Street about ten o'clock, 335 27 proceeded up Broadway, then along Stockton Street, Clay Street, to the Plaza, where it was halted to hear an oration upon the Declaration of Independence, delivered by the Judge of the Supreme Court.

The oration was well conceived and as well delivered: it was indisputably very creditable to the feeling and intellect of the judge; it was spirited and thankful, quite removed from bombast or boast, and its delivery occupied nearly two hours.

The procession itself was but a sorry affair. First of all came the gentlemen, who are here called the "pioneers," being the primary emigrants from the United States; following them were men decorated with light blue scarfs, and 336 28 others with sashes. Two companies of volunteers, dressed in military uniforms, came next: they seemed very little practised in marching to music, and looked very little like soldiers to the European eye; they were called the "City Lancer Guard," and "Marion Rifles." The lances of the first bore a strong resemblance to the weapons held by the redoubtable Beefeaters who exhibit upon a leve´e day at Saint James's; but those who bore them carried the similarity no farther. Many of these "gentlemen" evidently had misgivings with regard to their equestrian ability, and it seemed that most of them had too much to do, when called upon to manage a horse, and take care of a lance. They were dressed in blue, with buff facings.

337 29

The Marion Rifles consider themselves the e´lite of the volunteer military of the State: they are dressed in green, but wear gold epaulettes, thus counteracting the use of the green dress. This company of men has been organised by a German merchant of San Francisco, and is composed of a higher class of persons than the other corps of the place; but they are rather too fond of "playing at soldiers."

Some fire companies followed, dragging their engines, and then came Consuls, Army and Navy, Masons, and last of all a large number of Chinese, who transacted a procession after their own fashion, a fac-simile of which may be seen in pictures, and here and there on tea trays.

338 30

The oration having terminated, the procession rapidly dissolved. The City Lance guard were drawn up before a drinking saloon, when the Captain commanding it, in consideration of the arduous duties of the morning, exclaimed--

"Boys! any of you want to liquor?"

Of course all did; so they broke up to rush to the bar, leaving their horses to their own pursuits.

The Marion Rifles marched about, and performed some evolutions in Montgomery, much to the obstruction of the passengers, but to the great satisfaction of their own body. The scarf and sash men were independently galloping about the streets from two till four in the evening; the fire companies went home 339 31 sulky, because one had been given an undue precedence. It was a rather ridiculous exhibition.

A great deal has been said about the gold-bearing quartz of Queen Charlotte's Island, lying past the northward of Vancouver. I have seen some of it, and it has yielded well; but whether there is any sufficient quantity, is not known. A British frigate has been there to examine, but the reports of the officers are not favourable: these, however, must have been very superficial.

No newspapers issued this morning; 340 32 it is urged as an excuse, that the entire staff of the printing offices had, by drinking too largely, totally incapacitated themselves for the morning duties. An evening sheet is promised.

An unusual importation of Celestials by British ships has just taken placs.

"Heavy Arrivals of Chinese .--During the past forty-eight hours, two thousand and sixtyseven Chinese have arrived in this harbour in seven vessels, as follows:--

`Akbar,' 377; `Viceroy,' 358; `Duke of Northumberland,' 338; `Augusta,' 164; `Gulnare,' 152; `Anna,' 178; `Cornwall,' 500.

341 33

This immigration during two days is quite unprecedented in our record of foreign passenger arrivals."

These Chinese adventures are the most quiet, inoffensive people that were ever maltreated by a stronger power; no sooner have they found out good diggings than they are dispossessed of them by the American miners, who, though an appeal to the law may eject the latter, yet then they so harass and annoy the timid Chinaman, that he is glad to remove, and content himself with some poorer location.

A duel came off this day (the eighth), revolvers the weapons, parties to fire 342 34 "ad libitum;" one revolver would not revolve, so the other had it all its own way. The fourth shot took effect slightly, but enough to "satisfy honour."

A Californian "loafer" has been rather roughly handled in Australia, for endeavouring to use a bowie knife against fists, the loafer having been the aggressor.

The United States are full of this kind of creature; it arises from the practice of the children being brought up without restraint; they are allowed to go where they please, do and say what they please. I have heard children of five or six years old swear equal to any 343 35 abandoned character; they next take their drinks, injure their constitutions, induce lassitude, and become "loafers," or idlers, drinking and quarrelling in the drinking saloons, and at bars.

The clipper ship "Tornado" came in this day. She is one thousand eight hundred and seventy tons register, but carries two thousand four hundred tons of cargo.

The Americans claim the credit of having solved the problem, "Is a model formed for speed, capable of carrying a large cargo?"

Undoubtedly the problem has been 344 36 very satisfactorily solved in America, by Mr. Donald McKay; but he is a Scotchman, not an American, though he built at Boston: so also they claim having built the fastest yacht, the "America," and boast of having beaten all the English yacht club.

The builder of the "America" was Mr. George Steers, an Englishman, of Dartmouth, though he built the "America" at New York.

The fact is, our mechanics finding their avocation over-supplied at home, go abroad to make a living, and the United States is enabled to boast of their performances, as if they were those of native talent.

345 37

A fire broke out this morning in the "Oriental," an immense wooden hotel--the fire-engines were upon it with extraordinary celerity, and got it under with very little loss to the building. These Fire Companies are extremely well organized, and the men zealous.

346 38
CHAPTER V.

ARRIVAL OF STEAMERS FROM PANAMA.

THE steamers "S. S. Louis" and "Tennesse" have recently arrived from Panama.

On board the first, during the passage of fourteen or fifteen days, forty deaths occurred, and on board the other, thirty-four.

This mortality originates in the climate 347 39 of the Isthmus, and is rendered fatal by embarcation on board the American steam-vessels running between Panama and San Francisco.

These vessels frequently carry a thousand passengers at a trip. The steerage passengers are packed together little better than negroes are on board slave ships; they lie on shelves one over the other; are often very ill fed, sometimes even water is stinted, although the passage is so short; and the ventilation is poorly provided for.

They have a person on board termed a surgeon, or rather, the doctor, who, as far as experience goes, I must say, is neither attentive nor capable. In point of fact, the only effort of the company owning these vessels, is, to gain the 348 40 greatest number of dollars for the least amount of outlay; once pay your fare, and you are no longer worth consideration.

The deaths on board these steamers cause the law officers of the State to institute a suit against them for having more passengers on board than by law they ought to have had.

It is well known that they each had some hundreds too many, but a jury acquitted both.

The trial was a mere mockery, but foreign ships having been seized for the same offence, it was deemed politic to make a show of impartiality.

349 41

After breakfast this day, I went with a party to see, first the model of San Francisco, in wood; it is extremely accurate; the wonder is, that since 1849, such a city could have sprung up to be modelled.

Then we went to see the Mint, conducted by Mr. Moffat; this is again a beautifully-arranged establishment, and will shortly pass into the Government of the State. Vast amounts of gold ingots were deposited in it, and at the time they were cutting long strips of gold in the shape of fifty dollar-pieces (octagonal), in preparation for coinage. We all felt grateful for the very kind and patient attention shown to us by the officers of the place.

After this, we went to have one of the 350 42 party daguerreotyped, which, I think, is a loss of time--this art, ingenious as it is, only makes life assume the hue of death, gives every one ugly mouths whether they are so or not, aggravates the defects of age, and robs youth of its freshness and vivacity.

The accompanying advertisements appear frequently in the papers, varied only by the name of the "Doctor;" the name is not adopted by any but physicians from the United States, and seems to place them upon an equality with grocers, shoemakers, and other tradesmen.

Medical Notice .--Doctors Aldrich 351 43 and Mott have associated themselves in the practice of Medicine and Surgery.

They will attend promptly to all professional calls in the city, or from any point in the State.

Office, No. 32, Merchant Street, San Francisco.

E. S. Aldrich, M.D.

Valentine Mott, Jr., M.D.

Of New York, and late Professor of Surgery in the Washington University at Baltimore, Md.

Dr. Thomas J. White .--Office and residence in Merchant Street, next door to the corner of Kearny, and opposite the Union Hotel.

Dr. T. J. White (formerly of St. 352 44 Louis) has removed from Sacramento to San Francisco.

Having devoted twenty-eight years to the practice of medicine in the East and South, and three in California, he hopes to enjoy the continued favour of the public.

353 45
CHAPTER VI.

A RIDING PARTY.

COMING down from the mountains to San Francisco, I arrived in time to engage in a riding party at seven o'clock this morning. There were two ladies and six gentlemen--all English, of course.

At the time appointed we assembled in Stockton Street, and went away, intending to pass to the sea by the way of the 354 46 Mission, then back to Sans Souci to breakfast, having previously ordered that meal to be ready.

At the Mission we left the road, and placing ourselves under the guidance of a gentleman named Wy--e, and whom we thought proper to elevate to the rank of a baronet, dashed in amongst the sand hills, and soon found ourselves without a road at all; but instead we charged across the country, and suddenly came upon a party of French charcoal-burners.

They received us with that natural good breeding so characteristic of their country. We asked the road to the sea beach; they put us into it, but said the sea was four or five miles distant.

A council was called, to determine the course to be adopted.

355 47

Gentlemen who were thinking of the rich breakfast awaiting them at Sans Souci, an inn near the Mission road, thought the distance too great for the ladies, and voted against prosecuting the original project.

The ladies, and especially Mrs. B--tt, whose spirit nothing could quell, wished for the sea beach.

Four gentlemen were of the hungry order--one wavered, and I took the ladies' view of the matter. The horses' heads of the majority were actually turned towards Sans Souci; an instant more the opportunity would have been lost. Sir W--k--n Wy--e, our newly-made Baronet, and myself re-echoed the exclamation of Mrs. B--tt, "To the beach--to the beach!" and giving our horses a touch of the spur, in an instant a revolution in opinion took 356 48 place; Sans Souci was thrown aside, and we were all in a gallop for the beach, which we reached in about half-an-hour.

The scene there was worth the ride; the surf broke in great grandeur upon the sands; a massive and perpendicular rocky cliff rose some five hundred feet above our heads, at the base of which the surges detached themselves into myriads of frothy atoms, as they in succession rolled against it.

A hundred yards from the shore, some rugged, precipitous rocks rose fifty or sixty feet above the sea. On these we could plainly distinguish the sea-lions in great numbers, as they awkwardly rolled themselves from the ledges into the water, howling at the same time in a tone that reminded me of fox-hounds in full cry.

357 49

It is really difficult to resolve upon leaving scenery of grandeur, and we remained gazing upon the incessant wave as it was driven back by the huge cliff, or wasted its strength upon the sandy beach.

The appetite for grandeur had, however, been sated, and that for the San Souci breakfast had not.

Sentiment does not thrive when combined with hunger. So away we rode, retracing our course over sandhills and here and there some firmer ground, till we gained Sans Souci, where we had a capital breakfast, and returned to Stockton Street by noon.

I never enjoyed an excursion more, and only regretted its brevity.

358 50
CHAPTER VII.

ARRIVAL OF THE THETIS.

THE Thetis, an English frigate, arrived.

I went on board, and found the Captain to be a connexion of mine. The vessel is a perfect ship of war.

What a difference in vessels of war since I first entered the service; I then belonged to a frigate of thirty-six guns--her tonnage was eight hundred and seventy-five.

359 51

The Thetis mounts also thirty-six guns, but her tonnage almost one thousand six hundred. She throws nearly as heavy a broadside as did a ship of the line I belonged to in 1814.

The Thetis had been sent to Queen Charlotte's Island, in consequence of the reported discovery of gold there.

That gold has been discovered there, is certain; but it is only known to be in one spot, over which the tide flows at half flood.

This is a quartz lode, and Captain Kuper thinks the obstacles to working it are insuperable.

It would be very desirable to explore the eastern shore of the Island, which is stated to shelve towards the main land, and to be very accessible.

360 52

The summer winds are blowing with their usual severity. A gale every day from ten A.M. to five P.M., in the entrance of the harbour.

Vancouver's Island is suffering from the protection of the Hudson's Bay Company, as it was predicted it would when Lord Grey, then Secretary for the Colonies, gave it into the control of that body. A governor independent of the Company was appointed, but his advisers were all officers of the Company.

So, finding he could do nothing towards developing the capabilities of the Island, he resigned, and an officer of the 361 53 Company was immediately appointed in his place.

There is coal upon it, and some has been sent to San Francisco: the steamers to Panama and Nicaragua report rather favourably of it.

I have tried some of the quartz from Queen Charlotte's Island, and find it very poor. The little gold in it lies in a very thin strata of quartz, placed between a kind of slate of a very light blue colour; in this there is no gold, and the strata of quartz is not more than the eighth of an inch thick.

Many casual observers suppose, that because there is quartz in the rock, so the 362 54 whole rock is quartz, whereas nothing is more common than to see a narrow vein of quartz running through some most valueless stone, anything but quartz; and this mistake has been made about the quartz of Queen Charlotte's Island.

363 55
CHAPTER VIII.

THE JENNY LIND PURCHASE.

THE purchase of the "Jenny Lind" theatre by the Common Council, for the City Hall, continues to be stigmatised as a very base act, and subsequently the Grand Jury spoke their opinions upon the question in the following terms:--

"The result of the evidence taken in the Jeny Lind cases--

364 56

`That one party considered chiefly interested therein, declared that it cost him near fifty thousand dollars to get the business through the damned Council.

That several indirect pecuniary inducements were held out by one member of the Council, in his private capacity, to another civic functionary--the inducement in the Jenny Lind case less indirect than the others--that the contracts for repairs are considered fair and reasonable.

That one hundred thousand dollars city warrants have been drawn on account of purchase money, thirty thousand dollars of them paid out, and seventy thousand dollars retained as securtiy against claims.

That the party considered most 365 57 interested in said sale declared he would have fifty thousand to sixty thousand dollars left after the affair was finished, but only received from one thousand eight hundred dollars to two thousand eight hundred dollars, on account of unexpected claims coming in.

That he does not know the amount of claims that were due by him, not to whom due; did not know exactly who his attorney in the business was, nor the christian name nor residence of his own clerk, and that he knows very little about his own business generally.

That one hundred thousand dollars county warrants have been paid out to the order of Merril and McVickar, on account of the purchase money.

That the mode of drawing the warrants 366 58 in this case has been a deviation from the usual course.'

The Grand Jury, although it does not find sufficient grounds to justify an indictment, is satisfied that the aforesaid purchase has been made in a manner derogatory to the character and dignity of the City Council, and contrary to the will of the people.

Important witnesses could not be found, and more may yet be elicited

The Grand Jury has inspected the Jenny Lind building, where they did not find even a watchman to give them any information.

They found the two Council chambers the only ones entirely completed, the roof in many places leaking badly, and repairs almost entirely suspended, though 367 59 from evidence there is reason to believe that nearly all if not the whole amount of thirty-seven thousand two hundred and fifty dollars contracted for has been already issued in city and county warrants; and finally consider that a still larger amount and considerable length of time will be required to complete the building, and that when completed, it will be by no means well adapted to the purposes for which it is destined.

E. W. Graham, Foreman."

That the Council was heavily bribed, no one can doubt. Judge L--e had issued an injunction preventing the purchase; but this injunction was quashed by the Supreme Court.

It is worthy of remark, that the 368 60 Grand Jury is the only body which speaks its feelings and opinions fearlessly in California. The press is unworthy of consideration farther than as a mere record of daily events.

Some quartz from Placerville has been sent to me to try; like all the quartz from that locality, it gives excellent results.

Madame Biscacianti, who is much lauded here, volunteers her services in Grace church in aid of the funds of that church; the funds are at present very low, simply because the clergyman, who is a Belgian, will read and preach in 369 61 English, which language he cannot pronounce in an intelligible manner; so people do not subscribe. The attraction to-night is termed an Oratorio, which is a misnomer; all kind of music, mixed with a little sacred, is advertised, and a bar providing "drinks" of all descriptions is temporarily put up in the church. So much for the sacred character of the thing. It has been a common practice to hold concerts in the churches here; but that having given some offence, the term Oratorio is substituted.

The prosecution of the steamer "S. S. Louis" has been spoken of in previous pages: the following is some of the 370 62 evidence upon which a jury pronounced that vessel " not guilty " of carrying more than her allowed number of passengers.

"On the part of the Government there was produced the testimony of the person who measured the vessel after her arrival, and also of several of the passengers who came up in her.

A portion only of the orlop deck was occupied by passengers, and on it were erected one hundred and twenty single berths, though the law allows for the superficial space within the apartment only about twenty-four passengers.

On the lower deck, the vessel is by the legal measurement entitledto carry in the steerage a fraction over one hundred and seventeen passengers. There were two hundred and twenty-two berths 371 63 in that place, constructed of substantial material."

This is a fair sample of what may be expected from Californian jurymen, and American steamers. Slaves could scarcely have been closer packed.

Captain Vt--g--z, of the U. S. Custom Service, has offered me a cruise for a few days; so as I am waiting for the ability to prosecute the objects of the company, and cannot hear for a fortnight, I have accepted; and at ten this night I embark with him on board his clipper schooner. The officers of the U. S. Custom Service have a great advantage over our own; they are men of a superior 372 64 order to ours, and hold rank with Captains in their navy.

General Scott nominated as the whig candidate for President. The men are firing muskets, and little boys letting off crackers in the streets to celebrate it!

There is vast enterprise shown in this country by diverting the large rivers from their courses by means of digging a huge trench sufficient to carry the summer stream; where the river takes a bend, this has been done with great success; often a channel is cut across the base of the half circle, and the river, 373 65 dammed out of its proper course, is driven into the other.

By this method a long range of the river bed is left dry; it is then completely turned upside down, and, to my know-ledge, in one instance, from a crevice in the bed rock thirteen feet long, eighteen inches wide, and fifteen inches deep, gold amounting to twenty-one thousand dollars was taken out.

Ditches are also cut high up in the rivers, and the water is then carried round the sides of the several mountains for twenty and even thirty miles.

The men digging for gold pay for this water at the rate upon an average of a dollar an inch per day, which they take from the ditch through a small sliding door, and then through troughs reaching 374 66 when put together often three hundred feet; into these the soil is thrown, which the water washes away, leaving the gold in receptacles made for its deposit. Many of these ditches are paying forty per cent. per month.

375 67
CHAPTER IX.

OUTRAGES.

I HAVE reserved the pages of July for the atrocities of the month, as related by the several newspapers of the State. The first is an outrage, which, it is alleged, was committed by "two Englishmen." The "yell" is, however, especially characteristic of the American, and the whole "outrage" so much in unison with the style of events which follow, that it may be fairly charged against that country.

376 68

"An Outrage .--Yesterday morning, about one o'clock, two men were dashing about our streets on horseback, yelling, &c.

As they passed by officer Robinson, of the police, he turned his light on them to see who they were, when they insulted him most vulgarly, and one of them raised his pistol, aimed, and fired.

The ball struck within a foot or two of the officer.

We can scarce conceive of human beings committing such a cool and gross outrage as this.

They could not be found afterwards, but it was learned that they were two Englishmen. It is to be hoped that they will be brought to justice."

"Man Shot .--We learn from Mr. 377 69 Woodward, of Adams and Co.'s Express, that a man by the name of Darbin was killed by another named Fuller, in Napa Valley, on Sunday night.

Darbin's pigs had encroached upon Fuller's premises; in consequence of which a quarrel ensued, and Fuller shot Darbin with a rifle."

"Tragedy on Bear River .--We had the pleasure of an interview, yesterday, with Mr. Alfred Bowlby, from Hamilton county, Ohio, who has just arrived from the plains.

A most melancholy tragedy was enacted on Bear river, about the time Mr. Bowlby and party were passing that point.

Two men from Kentucky had a difficulty, in the course of which one shot the other.

378 70

The next morning a jury was summoned from the train, the man was tried, found guilty of murder, and sentenced to be shot, or leave the train. Two mules, with arms, &c. were offered to him, and he was ordered to choose, to leave or be shot.

He replied, that he was a Kentuckian, and would rather die an honourable death than run.

He was accordingly taken out, and seven rifle-balls lodged in his breast--he giving the signal to his executioners to fire.

We regret exceedingly that the names of the parties are not remembered.

The man who was shot was quite an old gentleman, and the homicide was a young man.

379 71

Mr. Bowlby's party found the body of a murdered man on the Humboldt river. It was supposed he was murdered and robbed by his travelling companions."

"The `El Dorado News' gives an account of a horrible tragedy, which occurred recently on the plains, between two brothers-in-law, Beasley and Beal.

The parties agreed on a separation, and Beasley got the weaker team, and had a sick man in his waggon.

Immediately after the division, he hitched up his team and proceeded on his journey, leaving Beal at Green River.

In a few hours after, Beal started, and in the course of the day overtook Beasley, on a hill, where he had stopped to rest his mules.

The former turned out of the road, and 380 72 passed by; the latter asking him if it was his intention to leave him (Beasley) with the sick man?

Upon Beal's answer being given in the affirmative, Beasley stepped in the front of his own waggon, drew out his rifle, and deliberately shot him down, killing him instantly.

A large train came up about this time, and stopped and buried the murdered man.

Beasley was tried, found guilty, and shot the next morning.

Both were from Kentucky."

"Horrible Murder--Two Men Killed .--Mr. Colton, deputy sheriff of Siskiyou county, has informed us that a most horrible murder was committed on Sunday morning last, about thirty miles south 381 73 of Yreka, on a new trail leading to Martin's ranche.

The circumstances of the murder are briefly these:

Mr. Rechter left Yreka on Saturday morning last, with ten mules, and was accompanied by two strangers, as passengers, and a Mexican servant.

This servant was observed to consult briefly with two of his countrymen, who made their appearance from the roadside.

At night all went to sleep, except the servant, who was left at work about the fire.

About one o'clock in the morning, Mr. Rechter awoke, and found his head badly cut, and bleeding profusely.

Within a few yards of his bed two men were heard struggling.

382 74

Mr. Rechter deemed it proper to go at once to Martin's ranche and procure assistance, and when he returned in a few hours, his mules could nowhere be found; and it appeared that one of the passengers had been killed on the instant, and the other had been so severely wounded by pistol and knife, that death resulted in a very short time.

The names of the two unfortunate men were not known."

"A Diabolical Murder .--Mr. William Ravenhill, the keeper of the toll-bridge on San Francisquito Creek, between this and San Jose´, was found brutally murdered in his house yesterday morning.

The deceased was lying on the floor, three balls having entered his head, no doubt causing his immediate death.

383 75

All the trunks and chests in the house had been ransacked and broken open, with an idea, no doubt, of obtaining a large sum of money, which the deceased was supposed to have had on his premises.

At the time the body was discovered it was yet warm, and a tea-kettle, which had been placed on the fire, was still heated. It is evident that the deed was committed but a short time before his breakfast-hour.

The evening previous, a man who is known as `Dutch John,' and a vegetable vender, residing about eight miles distant, had stopped there all night, whilst on the way to this city.

This fact was known, and immediately Messrs. Allston and Berton started in pursuit.

384 76

They overtook Dutch John at the Mission Dolores, who, when first questioned, denied that he had remained at the bridge all night, and stated that he was at home.

There was some blood on his shirt, for which he did not account in a very satisfactory manner.

The sum of eighteen dollars fifty cents was found in his possession.

He was arrested by a police-officer, and confined to await an examination.

The deceased had been in this city but a day or two before, and probably had deposited all his ready money.

He was well known to many of our citizens, and was universally esteemed.

He was about fifty years of age, an Irishman by birth, and was recently from 385 77 Brooklyn, New York, where his family are now residing.

This is one of the most foul and atrocious murders we have yet been called upon to record, and demands that the severest punishment known to the law should be inflicted upon the perpetrator."

"Grand Larceny .--Joseph Sweet, formerly of Illinois, but late of `nowhere,' got himself into a sweet scrape yesterday.

Mr. Ibbidesher, on his way to this city, stopped at the Prairie-house, on the Hangtown-road, for dinner, and left one thousand six hundred dollars in his waggon. On returning to the waggon he missed the money, and immediately charged Sweet with having stolen it, which the latter stoutly denied.

386 78

Strong threats of being tried before Judge Lynch, however, soon made him `acknowledge the corn,' and he showed his captors where he had buried the money, in a piece of woods near the house, and delivered up all but about sixty dollars.

Last evening he was delivered over to the authorities in this city."

The "outrage" standing first, seems to me to be eclipsed by the native American feats which have distinguished this month.

387 79
CHAPTER X.

THE COSUMNES TRAGEDY.

THE Sacramento "Union" contains a long report of the trial and execution of a Frenchman named Raymond, who was executed by the people of Big Bar, on the Cosumnes, for the deliberate murder of a Chinaman.

He was tried in due form by a jury of twelve men, who rendered a verdict 388 80 of "guilty of murder in the first degree."

The following is the account given of his execution:--

"About eight o'clock P.M., the excitement was over, and the question was called whether the prisoner be delivered into the hands of the civil authorities, or whether he suffer the punishment inflicted by law for murder.

The house was then divided, and it was decided that the prisoner suffer death.

The question was then asked, `When shall the prisoner be executed?'

And it was answered unanimously, `Forthwith.'

The prisoner was then informed of his sentence, and if he had anything to say, he would be heard.

389 81

He stated that he had nothing to say, only that he wished to be granted one hour.

The request was granted, and he was informed that any persons that he wished to see, would be admitted into the guard room, but only two at a time.

He then requested a friend to state that he wished to be shot, instead of hung, in the following manner, viz.:

That ten men be placed ten paces in front of him with rifles, all loaded with balls, and that he personally should give the word to fire.

This request would have been granted him, if possible; but not a man could be found willing to execute it.

He then wished to have ten Chinamen; this was objected to.

390 82

He then asked for the rope, and soap to soap the rope.

When he had but fifteen minutes of time left him, he asked for another half hour, stating that it would not be lost time, that he would converse with any person as familiarly and pleasantly as ever he did.

An elderly gentleman present then asked him if he felt no concern for his soul, and if he was prepared to go into eternity and meet his God, to answer for his deeds done in this world.

He very coolly replied that he had his own religion, and that required no preparation, but wished to know if the half hour had been granted him; that they need not think it lost time, as he said before, for if it was agreeable he would 391 83 relate a funny story, one that would make everybody laugh; but receiving no reply, he said--

`Never mind, I will tell it when we get to the place of execution.'

The half hour was allowed him, which he vainly spent in endeavouring to draw those about him into conversation.

When the time had expired, he was taken to the place of execution on the banks of the river, where a large fire had been kindled.

`That is right, gentlemen; I like to see a good fire on the occasion; but you will allow me a little time to speak, before you pull me up.'

He was asked how much time he wished.

He said, `half an hour.'

392 84

He was allowed fifteen minutes.

He then stated that he came to California, across the Plains, in 1850--that he had worked in Drytown, and at Mcquelumne Hill, and at several other places--that he came to California to make his fortune, and he lost his life.

`Some of you,' said he, `may call this good diggings, but I hope some of you may not find the same kind of diggings I have.'

It was thought he would give some information of himself, as no person knew anything about him; but when asked to give his name, he answered that he had papers to show his name, when it was necessary to give it.

When first brought to trial, after much solicitation, he stated that he was known 393 85 in Drytown by the name of Rogers, but that was not his name--that his proper name was Raymon.

He was known on the bar as Monsieur, or the Frenchman.

He inquired how much time was left him, and was answered nine minutes and a half.

`Well,' said he, `I have nine minutes and a half more, gentlemen.'

He then requested to have his arms untied, that he might himself adjust the rope, and tie the handkerchief over his face: but this was not permitted, as it was supposed he intended to plunge into the river, he having made one attempt to escape during the evening.

He said no more, but counted the time to the last half minute.

394 86

When the handkerchief was drawn over his face, he said--

`Allow me, gentlemen, a moment to say my prayers.'

Which was granted; when he said, `I am ready,' and was immediately drawn up.

A party was despatched to dig a grave, and after hanging forty minutes, he was taken down, examined, pronounced dead by a physician, and the body decently interred."

395 87
CHAPTER XI.

AUGUST.--EXECUTION OF TANNER.

AN execution took place yesterday, by the sentence of a legal court; this is rather a novelty, for Judge Lynch's court has generally presided over such affairs. The prisoner was from Sydney in Australia; he had been frequently apprehended for very daring and extensive robberies, and merited his fate.

396 88

The execution in itself was brutally conducted, amidst the jeers and laughter of the crowd; so little care appears to have been taken of him while in prison, that on the day of his execution some stupefying drug was conveyed to him, and when brought out he was altogether insensible, in which state he launched into eternity. Well might he "die without a struggle."

"Tanner, who was sentenced to be hung at this place yesterday, for stealing, expiated his crime on the scaffold, precisely at twelve o'clock.

The scaffolding had been erected under the superintendence of our worthy sheriff, M. Gray, Esq., a few hundred yards north of the jail, on the common, to which the poor culprit was conveyed in a carriage, 397 89 being totally unable to walk, either from the effects of an opiate or the paralization of his nerves through fear.

Arriving at the scaffolding, the prisoner had to be carried by the Sheriff's assistants from the carriage to the drop.

After the prisoner was placed upon the scaffold, the Sheriff read the death-warrant to him and the people, and asked whether he had anything to say.

To this question the prisoner made no reply, by word or sign.

A few moments afterwards, the rope was adjusted around his neck, and he was hurried into eternity.

Tanner made no confession of his crimes that we know of. He died without a struggle."

398 90
CHAPTER XII.

BODEGA BAY.

I AM at sea with Captain Ot--g--r in his beautiful schooner, and making the best of his way to Bodega Bay, where a large American merchantship has been wrecked.

Bodega Bay had formerly a Russian establishment in it, but the whole of the interest of that country has been sold by those who had the right to sell. A person 399 91 named Ross bought a large tract of land there, but since the country has fallen into the hands of the Americans, and the gold has been found; so any claim to the property must first pass the ordeal of the Commissioners appointed to investigate titles, and then it will have to contend with "squatters," miners, and such kind of tenantry.

Captain Ot--g--r and myself landed, and found one house only in the bay. The owner of this had got about forty acres planted with potatoes, which appeared to be flourishing; and as these are highly prized at San Francisco, he probably will be well recompensed for his industry.

The bay is sheltered only from the north-west winds, though to the south a 400 92 long sheet of water, called Tumelas Sound, stretches off in that direction a long way, but the water is shallow, not more than twelve or thirteen feet in depth. The wreck of the merchant ship was occasioned by getting too close in during a fog, and a subsequent gale.

From this place the small vessels of San Francisco go to bring down lumber, some fine pine forests affording large quantities of it. Saw-mills have been erected, and everything speaks of the "go-ahead" style.

After all, this boasted go-ahead system is little beyond hurry in putting up, and rapidity in breaking down, or "bursting up," as the Americans designate a bankrupt.

401 93
CHAPTER XIII.

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE'S BAY.

FROM Bodega Bay the schooner ran to Sir Francis Drake's Bay.

This is formed by a precipitous headland called Point Keyes; from the lands falls away to the south-eastward for six or seven miles; the whole way an unapproachable, coast with steep and high cliffs.

Rounding the south-east point, the Bay 402 94 is entered, and good anchorage in five fathoms may be had a mile from the shore, and sheltered from the south-east gales of winter. Indeed the whole Bay is surrounded by land, but the eastern shore is too far distant to afford much shelter should a gale blow from east-north-east to east-south-east; from any other wind it is secure.

Captain Ot--g--r and myself landed, and walked over the ground for some hours.

The bay is joined to the main land by a very narrow neck of land, scarcely a mile across; from this narrow part, by drawing a line to Point Keyes, thence to the southeast point of the peninsula and back, a triangle would be formed, comprising some thousand acres of extremely fertile land, 403 95 and which, were it in the hands of any but men who never look for a fortune unless it can be made in a twelvemonth or less, would be one of the most valuable acquirements in California.

There has been at some period a small cattle establishment here, but the shanty is now in ruins.

The ground is admirably calculated for sheep farming; the only fencing necessary would be across the narrow part, or isthmus, joining it to the main land.

A stream of water runs from the north through the length of the ground nearly; and though it was now the season when everything in California is burnt up, yet here the herbage was both luxuriant and green. This arises chiefly from the slope it takes from the heights of the sea cliffs 404 96 to the shore of the bay, together with the fogs, which during this period, that is all the summer, prevailing, the ground is preserved against the intense heat which entirely prostrates Californian culture elsewhere.

The distance from San Francisco is but twenty-five miles, so that sheep and cattle could easily be supplied from the Bay. I scarcely think wheat would ripen, or it would suffer from rust; but turnips, potatoes, beets, &c., would do extremely well.

This peninsula might be made a second Gibraltar, if any nation thought proper to take it in war from the Americans, and it would command the entrance to San Francisco, Point Keyes being the headland most frequently first made by ships first going there.

405 97

Coming out of the Bay, a fishing vessel sent a paper on board, which contained the death of Mr. Clay, the well-known American statesman. It also informed us of some duels, in which "General" Denner kills Mr. Gilbert, editor of the "Alta California," a newspaper; Mr. John Morrison kills Mr. Legget of Rich Bar; and W. S. Spear, "Esq.," encounters John Kelly at Marysville, fire three harmless rounds, then withdraw, and bury animosity in friendly "drinks."

"Fatal Duel .--We learn through Wells, Fargo and Co.'s Express, that a duel took place on Tuesday last at Rich Bar, on the North Fork of Feather river, between a Mr. Wm. Legget and Mr. John Morrison.

The parties fought with Colt's pistols, at a distance of ten paces.

406 98

On the third interchange of shots, Mr. Legget fell mortally wounded, and immediately expired.

The cause of the difficulty is not known.

None of Mr. Legget's shots took effect."

"Another Duel .--We understand that W. S. Spear, Esq., and John Kelly, two Downievilleans, met the other morning to settle their difficulties before breakfast. Three rounds--nobody hurt. Result--a shake of hands, and toddies for all."

At ten P.M. Captain Ot--g--r anchored his schooner at San Francisco, and I left him, feeling very grateful for a very pleasant cruize.

407 99

Returning to my quarters in Stockton Street, I found Dr. and Mrs. B--tt had come from Marysville, intending to make San Francisco their residence. I sincerely hope the change may be of service to Mrs. B--tt's health.

408 100
CHAPTER XIV

AMERICAN LIBERTY.

A SPECIMEN of American "liberty" occurred at Contra Costa this day.

A man named Hardy had bought a house of another, whom a Mr. Van Buren had placed in it to take care of it.

On application to Hardy to quit the premises, bought and sold fraudulently, he refused.

409 101

Van Buren commences a suit against Hardy, the court declares in his favour, he goes with the sheriff to be put in possession, whereupon Hardy shoots the sheriff immediately he approaches the door.

In due time Hardy is tried, and, as a matter of course, found "not guilty," after having declared to the sheriff that he would shoot him if he came.

So much for juries here.

The sheriff died on the spot.

A squad of Amateur Lancers are playing ludicrously enough at soldiers in the streets; they are practising to fall into procession to-morrow upon the 410 102 occasion of going through the absurdity of acting Mr. Clay's funeral, who has already been very decently buried in America.

The public buildings, the several churches, institutions, hotels, and many shops, are hung with black, in respect to the memory of a great man, which is quite called for; but why go through the mockery of dragging a hearse and empty coffin round the city, with no corpse to bury? After all, this display of respect does not close one theatre, or any other place in the city.

The following execrable occurrence is reported in the Mariposa Journal, and 411 103 savours very strongly of the most barbarous times in England, when old women were thrown into ponds to ascertain whether or not they were witches: if they sunk they were innocent, but drowned; if they swam they were witches, and were burnt, stoned, or otherwise put to death. The old man in the present instance, has been treated with scarcely less fiendish barbarity by the citizens of the " most civilized nation " and the " model Republic! "

"Carrico, a young man from some of the Western States, was found guilty of robbing the house of Messrs. Moore and Company, of the sum of nine hundred dollars.

This robbery was committed on Sherlock's creek, seven or eight miles from 412 104 this place, and suspicion at the time being directed to an old man named Johnson, he was arrested by the mob, and hanged by the neck until he became insensible, and whipped upon the bare back in the most cruel manner; but all this failing to extort from him the theft, Mr. Carrico, who was the leader of the mob, proposed to place his bleeding and lacerated body upon hot embers, and to extract the nails of his fingers and toes with a pair of bullet moudls; but this diabolical proposition meeting with no support, the poor old man, more dead than alive, was set at liberty.

A few days thereafter, Mr. Carrico left the neighbourhood under rather suspicious circumstances, and being followed 413 105 by an officer and arrested, a part of the gold dust, the identity of which he had endeavoured to destroy by beating it up, was found upon him; which circumstance connected with others, led to his conviction, and sentence to five years in the State Prison."

A party have assembled in Stockton Street to witness the procession supposed to be following the funeral car of the late Mr. Clay.

There was the usual display of an amateur soldiery, officers of the government, army and customs; no ships of war in the harbour, so no naval officers; the 414 106 judges and bar, masons, and sundry other associations; the eternal Fire Companies and their engines, the latter very much bound up with crape.

The hearse trimmed up to look as much as possible like a funeral car, with a coffin beneath the canopy, it took its course all round the city, and then halting in the Portsmouth Square, a good oration, descriptive of Mr. Clay's worth and talent, was delivered by one of the judges, I believe. This being finished amid the heavy report of minute guns, "drinks" became the next consideration.

415 107

Hardy, who murdered the sheriff at Contra Costa, has been acquitted.

This is quite in character--theft is held here in a far more criminal light than murder; by theft, all may lose dollars and cents, but if a man is murdered, that is only loss of life to him, and therefore is not much regarded. It certainly is the case, that murder is much more frequent than robbery.

A gentleman, Dr. Collyer, has projected an amalgamator and crusher in one. It is perhaps the most compact of any of the almost numberless contrivances for crushing quartz that I have seen.

416 108

There is a heavy roller, which makes but half a revolution, and runs back again; in this the crushing and grinding actions are combined. From this roller, the ore has to pass through some extremely fine wire gauze, so fine that the ore must be in powder to filter through it from this point of filtration; it must pass again beneath a succession of small rollers revolving in mercury, and leaving these, it goes over a mercury bath.

Possibly, from the casual view I had of the machine, I may not be quite right in my description, but I am not far wrong--I am quite satisfied that anything which will abolish the stamper, must be an improvement so far as rapidity and amalgamation is concerned. The 417 109 Chilian mill, if made to revolve with rapidity, would be infinitely superior to the stamper, because by the crushing and grinding motion the gold is cleansed from exterior coatings of several substances which frequently prevent amalgamation, and the gold is then passed off with the refuse stream unobserved.

The "Alta California," a newspaper of San Francisco, has an article in it of deep importance to England. The Editor, with much feeling, tells how we can be as free as the United States of America.

I subjoin a sample of that freedom he would infuse among the English.

418 110

The San Joaquin "Republican" contains the following under date of August 17:--

"This evening the town is rife with the report that Major James D. Savage has been killed.

The particulars, so far as heard from, are as follow: Savage had left his camp on his way South to attend a grand feast given by some of the tribes, and stopped at Campbell's Ferry on King's River to take breakfast with Major Harvey and others.

During the meal, a dispute arose between them. Savage, making some remarks, was slapped in the face by one of the party.

He immediately jumped up from the table, and either caught his pistol against the table, or in attempting to draw it, 419 111 let it fall to the ground, when Major Harvey and two others fired at him, killing him instantly, the three balls taking effect.

Judge Marvin, in attempting to assist him, was knocked down by a blow on the head from a pistol in the hands of one of the party.

How many of the above circumstances are true, cannot be said, but there does not appear to be a doubt as to the death of Major Savage.

G. D. BRUSH."

The above letter is sufficient to put all doubts to rest, as it has been confirmed by similar reports in other sections of the country.

420 112

A great deal has been said in the United States papers upon the subject of a method, said to be devised by Mr. Ericson, a Swede, of propelling ships by the expansion and contraction of air.

It is treated as original; this is an error, the plan was rejected many years ago at Glasgow; it was also offered some twenty years since to the British Government, tried, and there also rejected.

Mr. Ericson has, however, a right to claim one part as his own--this is the "regenerator," by which he makes some essential saving.

Should it answer, of course steam would be disused; but it is feared by those conversant with such matters, that he will not be able to gain a sufficient power.

421 113

For some time I have had a severe influenza attack--these are not at all unfrequent at San Francisco; the hot sun at this season is succeeded by cold evening fogs, which, indeed, are equal to small rain. I am under the hands of an English physician, who seems to understand it very well; but what with waiting for supplies from the directory at home, protracting the completion of quartz negotiations, and keeping accounts, I have a good deal to bother me.

There is a quartz-lode very much cried up, of which a person in Marysville, uniting in himself the title of colonel and occupation of shopkeeper, is endeavouring to sell to an English company; this day he, rather unwillingly, gave me six 422 114 or seven pounds of the quartz; it is very shabby-looking stuff, and altogether very unlike what he has heretofore exhibited as quartz coming from his lode; in my opinion, the two samples did not come from the same place--the trick is too old now.

Mr. D--s, mining-agent, sent out by the--Company, to advise me upon quartz matters, has sent in a high report of the quality of the Dicksburgh quartz-lodes, for which I am negotiating. I send it home, as this is his department; and though I cannot see the lodes in the same superior light, yet I must hesitate before I place my opinions, so little practised as I am, in opposition to his, a miner in Mexico, Brazil, and England, for forty years.

423 115

Mr. D--s, who is recruiting his health at Contra Costa, was leaning against the railings before his lodgings, enjoying the coolness of the evening, when suddenly a pistol was fired, and the shot struck close to his side. It was done by a man standing opposite, who was seized, but excused himself by saying he had mistaken his man!--a practice very consistent with civilized life!

"Value of Property in the Mines .--The total value of property in the town of Ophir, Placer county, as recently assessed, amounts to the sum of one hundred and thirty-seven thousand dollars. The assessor estimates the value of property in the Gold Hill precinct at one hundred thousand dollars.

Three years ago, these places were 424 116 unknown but to the Indians of the country; above, their present state is shown. At Grass Valley, the capital is chiefly English."

425 117
CHAPTER XV.

ATROCITIES OF THE MONTH.

I SUBJOIN some of the murders, &c. for the month.

"Another Shooting Affair--One Man Dangerously Wounded .--We are compelled to record still another affray, in which two men have been shot, one of whom has received a wound which may prove mortal.

Last evening, while a Chileno named Don Amiguel, who is the proprietor of a 426 118 dance-house in Fifth-street, was attending the door of his establishment, an American applied for admission, and was charged the usual fee, which he refused to pay. He was, of course, debarred admittance. Whereupon he drew a pistol and fired.

The ball entered the left side of the Chileno, below the lung, and passing entirely through his body, struck another American standing near on the wrist, and lodged between the bones.

The wound of the former is pronounced serious; but as the lung seems not to be affected, there is a prospect of his recovery.

The ball which had done this double execution, was extracted from the wrist of the injured man, who is not severely hurt.

427 119

The American who fired the pistol had not, at a late hour last evening, been arrested."

"Murder .--On Monday, the twenty-third instant, at daylight, an Indian by the name of Alverez was found dead in front of the Italian store, on the west side of Market-square, and the blood still running. His throat was literally cut from ear to ear, and two severe wounds had been inflicted with a knife in the region of the heart.

There being no clue as to the murderer, and a suspicion resting upon Francisco Costo, an Italian, and owner of the store, he was arrested, and taken before Justice Vermeule, and no evidence appearing against him up to the twenty-fourth, was discharged.

428 120

The witnesses recognized to appear are said to have given fictitious names, and never returned."

"Another Murder .--On Sunday night last, at the Almaden mines, Jesus Rodriquez took the life of Dimas Cervantes (both Mexicans), by stabbing him with a knife, as we understand, while they were both under the influence of intoxicating liquor.

Rodriquez was brought to this city, tried before Mayor White; J. Alexander Yoell, Esq., prosecuting, and F. S. Mc Kinney, Esq., defending; and, upon a hearing of the evidence, was committed."

"Another Man Killed .--An Indian or Mexican was arrested on Monday last, in Santa Clara Mission, for the murder of another Indian or Mexican.

429 121

Particulars not known.

The murderer was committed for the Court of Sessions."

"Murder .-- On Sunday morning last, a Mexican boy was whipped at Vallecito, by Dr. Wilson, for maltreating some American children.

Nothing more was thought of the matter until the next day, when the body of Captain McAlpin was found, stabbed in several places, lying in the Spanish part of the town.

One of the wounds penetrated the left breast to the heart.

When found, he had his pistol in hand, cocked, and his finger on the trigger.

He must have been killed upon the spot, as his pistol was not discharged.

Captain McAlpin resembled Dr. Wilson 430 122 very much, and there is no doubt of his having been victimized by the Mexicans, to revenge the chastisement the boy had received at the hands of the latter.

Captain McAlpin was an old resident of California, and highly esteemed by all who knew him.

His murder has engendered the deepest feeling of hatred toward the Spanish-American population, and we may soon expect to hear of a bloody expulsion from that camp of this class of foreigners."

"Expulsion .-- The destruction of Greasertown by the Spanish incendiaries, so incensed the miners living around Latimore's Ranche and Mr. Lake's store, on the Calaveras, that they formed themselves into a company, with the determination to drive away every Mexican or Chilean they could find.

431 123

Accordingly, on Monday they marched to that camp, as we are informed, and expelled, a´ la force , several hundred of what had composed the population of a large portion of Greasertown.

Our informant states, that this place was the head-quarters of a desperate band of murderers and thieves, and that they here concocted many of the fiend-like schemes which, after having been consummated, have excited the horror and animosity of our whole community.

Several of these thieves who were recognized, were severely flogged.

The miners of Vallecito held a meeting, and passed resolutions to compel the Spanish American population to leave in twelve hours.

From appearances, it seems that the 432 124 Americans in Calaveras and Tuolumne countries are determined to rid themselves of the Spanish-American people.

It may occasion considerable bloodshed."

433 125
CHAPTER XVI.

SEPTEMBER.

THE strong north west winds begin to lose their strength a little in this month; the weather manifestly changes for a more pleasant type.

After breakfast, I tried the quartz given to me by the "colonel" shopkeeper of Marysville; it proved, as I thought it would, almost valueless; the reputed lode is about twenty miles, northerly, of Marysville, close to a place called Hansonville.

434 126

The lode, whenever properly examined, will prove to be no lode at all, in my opinion.

Afterwards, I went to see a trial of extracting the gold from crushed ore, by means of a patented flux.

The patentee is a Mr. Longmaid, of London, we are told. If the gold could be separated in this manner, the process would be invaluable; but what an enormous amount of it would be necessary to separate the gold from fifty tons of crushed ore per diem--it would be almost a river; the trial, however, from some cause, proved a complete failure.

The "Herald" of this day contains an account of an execution, copied from 435 127 a New Orleans paper, in which two criminals suffer death. The deprivation of the lives of these offenders appears to have been hailed by the New Orleans editor, as a happy opportunity of using his whole force of ribaldry and levity; how any person professing christianity and civilization, could permit such an article to pollute the columns of his newspaper, it is impossible to imagine, unless I am wrong in supposing him to be a Christian and civilized being. That a San Francisco paper should reprint it, is only in accordance with what appears in the papers of that place on such awful occasions.

For a considerable time I have had 436 128 ague threatening; appetite gone, lassitude, and my head sounding like a hive of bees in full work, so Dr. B--tt must put me in good order again. I tried a ride in the forenoon, and when I came home I found a prescription from the doctor: an emetic formed the first operation. I hate this proceeding, it is such a vulgar way of getting well, but I suppose I must take it, so I sulkily sent for the medicine; it did me a monstrous deal of good nevertheless, and B--tt was very right; he is an English physician, and a clever one also. I was hungry by five o'clock, after having slept for three hours soundly; so I had tea and biscuits, and slept again till daylight.

437 129

Dr. B--tt next morning; alteratives and quinine, so the ague and a fever are regularly attacked: I am to lay up for three or four days. Unhappily for the third day, a riding party similar to that mentioned previously, had been arranged, so I joined it. We were nearly the same party, and did pretty much the same things: these parties, so purely English, and attended as they were by English ladies, are as purely delightful.

Received a lecture on my return, and the infliction of another emetic threatened.

This day, the seventh, very unwell, all in consequence of the ride, says the doctor:--very probably, but then he 438 130 should not let Mrs. B--tt propose riding parties; for who, ague or no ague, would refuse to join one, if he had breath enough to last him four or five hours? However, again the vulgar remedy; then a delightful sleep nearly all night.

Another party made up to go to Contra Costa by water--all arranged. In comes Dr. B--tt, and forbids Mrs. B--tt, Captain P--x, and myself, all three being on his hands; so that party "caved in," as American parlance has it.

The "San Francisco Herald" has a specimen of what it calls "deliberate 439 131 shooting." It represents that "Jem Taylor, a noted gambler," threatened to shoot "William Turner at sight," in consequence of which "Turner takes Taylor unawares," and shoots him dead; the surrounding throng approve Turner conduct, and that is all that will be done in the matter.

Dr. B--tt is improving me rapidly, though the weather is intensely hot: thermometer ninety-seven degrees in the shade.

I am living in a boarding house, waiting for means to complete and carry on the purchase and mining works at Dicksburgh; the lodes, the mining agent sent 440 132 to advise me in these matters declares to be very superior.

He has the experience of from thirty to forty years of mining in Mexico, Brazil, and England. I have but two years in California, so I yield to his opinions, but I doubt his judgment; one thing I know, that unless English Companies can send out money to enable their superintendents to go on with confidence, they had better not "go into quartz," as say the U. S. citizens.

The ague hovers about me, and the doctor says I must "rise earlier." Considering my Directors in England deprive me of the power of doing anything, I 441 133 think if I am at breakfast by ten o'clock I do very well.

Rise early in a San Francisco boarding house! and be jostled by the American "helps" in every room, or go out and take a morning walk knee-deep in sand, or dust! One cannot afford a ride at eight dollars per gallop, and even if it could be, the hacks here are so accustomed to the manners of the "Sovereign Citizens," that they do not at all understand quict and gentlemanlike riding. These said citizens verify to a great extent the well-known adage which describes the result of a pauper's ride; they have the strangest seat on horseback that I ever saw.

He forms a nearly straight line from the toe of his boot to the top of his hat; 442 134 a perpendicular dropped from the latter point would strike about the loins of the horse, and a straight line drawn upwards from the boot toe, would strike about the centre of the horse's neck; thus the two feet would stand out not unlike the plough-shares of the locomotive, which are used, I believe, for removing snow. In each hand the citizen holds a rein, and raises them as high as he can, the horse at the same time elevating his nose to the highest extent of his power; and in this manner the citizen bumps about the saddle with enormous endurance, fully satisfied that he has accomplished the German seat on a horse.

443 135

A fire in Stockton Street last night; promised well at first, but not originating in account books, it was soon put out.

What a bother with the "helps!" they all resigned office early this morning, so we had to "help" ourselves, and fly to restaurants for breakfast. A new help-ministry was soon formed, but, after all, an American "help" is as much an obstruction: these boarding-houses are subject to all sorts of such changes, and are very comfortless.

A consultation with Mr. D--s on the 444 136 Dicksburgh purchase. Eight thousand dollars paid down, and bills for the remainder on England will conclude it: so that is to be done, and now we must get the gold out, if we can; Mr. D--s says it is there.

I gained no less than five "Phillipanas" this morning; two of the ladies paid me handsomely, two declared that I cheated, and one, a "Citizen" lady, wished she was in New York, as then she could get something to pay with!

Our society in this boarding-house is now very pleasingly composed. Two English ladies with their husbands, five children, one American gentleman, and five or six 445 137 English; whist, chess, conversation, every evening--but on a sudden we are thrown on our own resources by a "stampede" on the part of the "helps."

The Thetis, English frigate, came in from Vancouver's Island; in all respects a well-arranged ship of war.

A very ingenious piece of mechanism has been brought to San Francisco by a German, for the purpose of separating the gold from the iron pyrites by means of electro-magnetism. This it does effectually, but then there is the separation from the sand to be effected, and therefore the washing and amalgamation would be as 446 138 necessary as before the pyrites were removed.

On board the Thetis with my American friend, Captain O--tt--r; he only wore an undress, and his rank not being known, the due attentions to it were not paid on his coming on board. The Captain of the Thetis was much amazed when I told him who O--tt--r was, and on going away things were rightly done, which O--tt--r observed to me, and rightly attributed the omission to his being in an undress uniform.

The wind was blowing hard and cold; we got "kinder" wet, and at night I had 447 139 to amuse myself till morning, by applying relays of camomile poultices to allay the ear-ache, which, with a violent cold, I had acquired. Next day the ague came again--the doctor tells me a cruize at sea would, as a change of air, be of service, but to avoid getting wet; and O--tt--r has offered to take me out in his schooner for a week or so.

I was relating something about the rich "diggings" of Australia this morning in an apothecary's shop; a drayman stood by; pushing himself forward, he said to me--

"Well, Colonel, whare was that now?"

I am not a military man, but being addressed as one, I replied--

"I do not exactly know, General."

The drayman looked "ugly," not knowing whether to be angry or not, and 448 140 then "concluded" that I was "kinder smart."

Met General Estill at dinner this day; by-the-bye, he is a real U.S. General, he informs me that he is engaged with others to bring the water from the south branch of the American river to the "diggings" about the Placerville district, but that they cannot supply water for a quartz mill from their canal; if they could, there is a lode worth working in that vicinity.

The dinner was an attempt at the French style; all the messing, but none of the delicacy. The American cook overwhelms everything with bad butter, or worse grease. More ear-ache after; so I was determined to take it out in my room, coddling all day, and I was in consequence treated with a visit of enquiry from the 449 141 two English ladies staying in the house. I would willingly have the ear-ache again to insure their visits, for they are English ladies--rare birds in California, I admit.

Mr. D--s came down from the new quartz purchase; all settled and made over to me for the--Gold Mining Company; so now I am in possession of, Mr. D--s says, "a splendid property," and he might add, without money to work it.

The Directors seem to think that two or three thousand pounds will open a mine, put up machinery, and enable the said mine to be worked; that in a few months every shareholder will be a rich man. 450 142 They sit at home calculating the gains, and do not provide for the outlay.

Dined on board the Thetis, certainly thoroughly a ship of war.

On landing, a procession was met parading the streets, in celebration of "General" Peirce's election to the Presidency of the United States; he having "whipped" General Scott. The former General was assailed by a desire for military glory, threw down the attorney's pen, and rushed valiantly to the army then engaged in Mexico. When in an action there, it is alleged that he had lost his brigade, and was found looking for it with much zeal.

In that war of little affairs many private individuals became suddenly Colonels, Generals, &c., merely by leading a motley 451 143 tribe of volunteers to the army; and Mr. President Peirce was one of them.

The Thetis got her anchor up, and went to sea in good style.

452 144
CHAPTER XVII.

A LOOK AT THE CALIFORNIA GOLD MINES, BY A RUSSIAN ENGINEER.

THE annexed paper on Californian Gold Mining in quartz lodes, is worthy of consideration.

"By examining the different processes of mining, and particularly those used for auriferous quartzose ore, at the first glance I observed the complete absence of 453 145 knowledge of the most common rules of metallurgy.

During my stay in the mines I met but very few persons able to ascertain the species of the quartz, its elements, the character of the soil, the announcements or assistants of gold, &c.

Most of them are entirely ignorant, and ground themselves on others' conjectures, more or less wrong.

With the simplest tool, and often with only an iron bar, the miners undertake boldly their task--they toil heartily, and begin to break and dig everywhere, persuaded that digging is all that is required to find gold.

After having digged a hole about one hundred feet deep, and found nothing, they go to do the same further up or down, or 454 146 in a transversal direction--running with anxiety from one place to another, and making a new trial in every one.

Finding nothing yet, they abandon the spot and go on seeking for another--the signs more or less wrong.

So they expend a great deal of time, labouring under every kind of hardship and privation, that can only be experienced by people of a strong nature and energetic resolution.

Should all these men have known the first principles of science, the most common sign of the presence of gold; or should they, at least, have had the leaders to guide them in their course, at the two or three first strokes with the crowbar they could have foreseen the uselessness of their attempt which they pursued in 455 147 vain for weeks; and instead of travelling many miles from that place, looking for richer mines, they could have discovered them at the short distance of a few feet.

How great was my astonishment, during my exploration, to see the richest mines left intact, and the people densely crowded around places that science would have designated at a glance as unworthy of any attention.

That is the way in which the gold mines are commonly searched in California; though it is true, that on account of the gold being so abundant in this country, the miners happen casually to meet with rich mines.

But does that often happen? And do they avail themselves as they ought to of such a chance?

456 148

After having considered, with great care, the common method of extracting the ore from the earth, and particularly from the auriferous quartz, I regret to say that the said process is still in its infancy.

All the machines used for washing the earth, or crushing the quartz, are in contradiction with the common rules of metallurgy, and even with the mechanical art.

Moreover, they are constructed according to the method that was known in Europe twenty-five years ago, and which has been abandoned or improved.

That explains why, in the working of the auriferous quartz ores, they lose forty per cent; and in washing the earth by long-toms, or rockers, one-half of the gold is lost.

457 149

It is the fact, of which I am certain from repeated experiments, and which I am ready to prove.

Besides, I am sure I shall have on my side the opinion of every one who knows something about the mines.

Even the gold-searchers will not deny that the auriferous earth, after having once been washed, will still afford as much ore as those which never have been washed.

The second fault, of no less consideration, in all the quartz machines, is their enormous size, which is compatible neither with the locality of the quartz, nor with the position of the mines.

Most of the richest quartzose mines lie, as I am certain, on the tops of the hills, or near to the sources of rivers; 458 150 therefore, it is almost impossible to work them with such machines which require good roads for their transportation; and that the quartz miners are to confine themselves to the places to which they can go by roads.

Near to the Yuba I have seen the richest mines, that had been discovered three years since, and which will remain unworked until the road be completed to transport there the quartz machines.

Another inconvenience that results from the said size of those machines, is the high price they come to; so that before beginning to work any quartzose mine, according to the process alluded to, an investment of twenty-five thousand or thirty thousand dollars is unavoidable only for the construction of 459 151 machinery, not including the wages of the workmen, and other employe´es.

To invest such sums, it is necessary to ascertain that the mines are really rich, and the profit will be very great; and still, so large an amount of money cannot be obtained very easy, especially now, when it is difficult to form any company, and when most of the people, not knowing upon what ground to form their conjectures in regard to the richness of the mines, fear to be mistaken or deceived.

Thus many miners--after having discovered the mines, after many toils and every kind of privation--are obliged either to quit them, or sell for almost nothing, or to beg the permission to pound some tons of quartz at the price of thirty 460 152 or fifty dollars a ton, with a loss of four per cent or more.

And it often happens that the miners receive nothing, when the gold is connected with silver or iron. The machines described are entirely useless in such a case.

These are my observations respecting mining in California, which my desire to be useful to the enterprising and working population of this State induces me to publish, happy if I can be useful to the cause of improvement, so much wanted in that important and wealthy branch of industry.

Flattering myself that I am entitled to some credibility, after twelve years of practice in the Siberian mines, where I superintended all the works of 461 153 different mines; being the inventor of several machines now in use in Russia: and what is due to my knowledge in metallurgy, procured for me from the Imperial Government, and from the principal mining company, a special commission to explore the gold mines of Europe and California, and also the diamond mines of Brazil.

I hope that all these observations may suggest to those occupied in the interesting pursuit of mining, the idea and desire of improving the same, that it may be profitable to the community, and their speculations successful.

It is, therefore, indisputable, that every miner should know:

First--The best mode of extracting all the gold from auriferous sand, quartz, and 462 154 iron, and of ascertaining whether all the gold is obtained from any ores.

Second--All chemical means, agents, and processes, by which the gold can be obtained and separated from the foreign matters, as silver, sulphuret, pyrites, &c.

In conclusion, I ought to say that the iron oxyde, called `black sand,' that is generally thrown away without any attention, could give, at least, half the quantity of gold obtained from auriferous sand, from which that black sand is separated.

I call specially the attention of gold-searchers to that particular.

VICTOR PATCOOL."

With regard to the amount of gold 463 155 found in the "iron oxyde, called black-sand," I differ from the writer. I have often tried this oxyde, but have found no gold.

464 156
CHAPTER XVIII.

OCTOBER.

WE English are sadly troubled about tea here: the United States citizen cares little about such small "drink," and knows less about the social comfort of our evening tea-table, so very little good tea is imported.

A great quantity of very wretched stuff is imported, and sold to the country dealers, steam boats, restaurants, and in 465 157 such directions. This is taken by those who travel, or use the latter; for though the American leaves his home of an evening for the bar-room, theatre, &c., yet in the steamers at supper, as they term the six-o'clock meal, they swallow this tea without asking a question about it, while I have seen the English instantly dismiss it, and take cold water in preference. Habituated to the bars, the American knows very little about good wine, spirits, or tea; the cheap, pernicious liquor of the saloon is his standard.

I have only been able to get good tea through a gentleman connected with a house at Hong Kong, and by the kind recollection of a relation living there, who has sent me, on several occasions, great treats in this way.

466 158

Captain O--tt--r has asked me to take a cruize with him, for ten days or so' in his schooner, the "Frolic." I am to embark to-morrow.

We cannot get either boots or shoes here, fit to wear--the soles of the shoes are kept on with wooden pegs, so I am sending old shoes to England as a pattern for others to be made by.

467 159
CHAPTER XIX.

CRUIZE WITH THE FROLIC.

ON board the Frolic with O--tt--r: a beautiful clipper schooner, commanded by an excellent friend, and an intelligent officer. He belongs to the Revenue service, the officers of which take rank with the officers of the United States navy, though they are not eligible to command ships of war, otherwise than a 468 160 revenue cruizer can be considered as such.

There is also on board for a cruize a friend of O--tt--r's, Captain H--t--r, of the United States navy, and we are packed rather close in a very small portion of the schooner, called the Captain's cabin; in this place there are two sleeping berths, occupied respectively by O--tt--r and myself.

Captain H--t--r sleeps, or at least lies down in imitation of sleeping, on sundry bales of blue jackets, trowsers, woollen frocks, &c., and says he makes good weather of it.

The cabin may be about eight feet square, which space is almost filled up by a table; the height between the decks will not allow any of us to stand upright, 469 161 and to get into bed, it is necessary to assume a horizontal position, and glide into a recess called a berth, a space in this instance five feet ten inches long, twenty inches broad, and twenty high; this place, if unlike bed-places in general, had nevertheless its advantages; for pitch and roll, jump about as the Frolic pleased in all her eccentricities, she never could move you from the berth, when once fairly in it.

Curiously enough, Captains O--tt--r and H--t--r are both very sea-sick this morning.

It is blowing a stiff gale, and indeed the Frolic is frolicking with a vengeance; every conceivable motion is practised by the schooner, even though O--tt--r has put her under a close-reefed foresail, and 470 162 laid her to. He takes it quiet enough in his berth, but H--t--r discovers much impatience, and when the paroxysm of sea-sickness abates, he utters some terrible anathema against his folly, for coming with O--tt--r for a cruize; why he came, is a problem he vainly endeavours to solve. I came because there are ten days in which I must remain expensively idle at San Francisco, waiting for means to get to work upon the mines.

The gale very much interferes with O--tt--r's kitchen arrangements; he is himself somewhat to indifferent to the state of his larder, but the gale has rendered even the scanty fare exhibited in that region altogether unavailable, for the fire will not remain in; so we are reduced to biscuits and sardines.

471 163

O--tt--r clearly holds comforts in contempt; a most unfortunate disposition for a visitor at sea to encounter, for there eating forms a great periodical employment.

Cape Mendorino is in sight, about twelve miles dead to windward, so we shall not get round it to reach, as was intended, Humbolt.

The growling capabilities of Captain H--t--r are in the process of a large development--he "wonders how he could have been persuaded to come to sea in the darned schooner!"

Fortunately O--tt--r promised to bring us back by the tenth, and as his word is truth, so far as depends on him, he will do so; but H--t--r began to assail Ott--r with hints that it was time to turn back. 472 164 O--tt--r has a will of his own, and H--t--r gained very little by his motion. However, I had had enough of a Mendorino breeze, and therefore allied myself, or rather mediated between the two captains; the result of which was, that at half-past two the Frolic was put before the wind, on a course for San Francisco, to the extreme delight of H--t--r.

This morning, after the gale, a dead calm, and a thick fog. The cabin-stores, small in quantity at first, have painfully diminished--wood and water also perfectly on the wane.

H--t--r growls better than ever; a little appeased by the cabin-boy, Charlie, 473 165 having caught a fine fish, called a Snapper; the scales are a very delicate pink; the eye large, with a broad yellow rim encircling the dark hazel ball.

A council was held, to decide upon the manner in which the fish was to appear at dinner. I urged boiling; outvoted by O--tt--r and H--t--r, who favoured "chowder,"--not a bad dish, but something messy.

Still a thick fog; we can hear the surf break heavily on the beach, so O--tt--r has anchored the schooner, for it still continues calm.

H--t--r and O--tt--r went towards the shore in the boat, to ascertain, if possible, our locality; they came back with the intelligence that they had seen the roocks, near Point Rayes, and, indeed, 474 166 were very nearly thrown upon them. H--t--r had his hat washed off by a sea, which broke over the boat; in United States parlance, "they came near drowning."

On the evening of the thirteenth, a breeze from the north-west; up anchor, and all sail set for San Francisco, and anchored on the bar at night, in a calm and fog. H--t--r in good humour again, although we had scarcely anything to eat or drink.

Next day, in the harbour. Letters from the Board. Dicksburgh quartz-lodes to be purchased, and proper letters sent to enable the completion of the purchase. Also, I am informed that letters of credit 475 167 for an additional sum "have been sent;" but they have not arrived.

Met Judge L--, who is a candidate for the office of judge of one of the courts. One of his supporters, a drayman, was passing with a load; he jumped off on seeing Judge L--, ran up to him, slapped him on the back, and exclaimed, "Well, old hoss (horse), how does the election go?" and away he went to his dray again.

The system of electing the judges for the several courts is highly prejudicial; if any man can resist all bias in favour of his party, Judge L-- will do it; he bears, worthily, a very high reputation.

476 168
CHAPTER XX.

CONTRA COSTA.

TO Contra Costa this evening, the sixteenth, to confer with my legal adviser on the Dicksburgh purchase.

This is an assemblage of residences, scattered amongst oak-trees, on the low plain immediately beneath the Morte Diablo range; at present, it is very attractive, so far as the country is concerned, but rapidly sinking into the 477 169 defiling influence of the gambling and drinking saloon.

The hotel I went to had the same long dirty-clothed table-d'hoˆte; the floor redolent of discharged tobacco-juice, cigar-ashes, and ends. Dinner to me, and supper to the American, at six o'clock; when some twenty or thirty workingmen, in working apparel, take their seats, having rubbed their hands and faces with a damp general towel at the outer door, and ran through their hair the general hair-brush, hanging on a peg in the wall of the dining-room!

Than these rooms, scarcely anything can be more disgusting; and the cookery is all grease and bad meat: liver and pork--the latter often from the groveller of the grave-yard, and always having the 478 170 run of the slaughter-house--are here held in much esteem.

After dinner, whist was proposed--Americans understand euka, poker, &. better than they do whist. The system of "liberty and equality" was well illustrated this evening. The hotel-keeper stretched himself at length upon a sofa in the general sitting-room, and while I was playing, a waiter, in his shirt-sleeves, leaned over the back of my chair to see my play, whistling all the time. To compensate for all this, I had a bed-room to myself, and, what is very unusual here, two towels--put together, they would scarcely have made one English towel: the amount of the American personal lavatory must be very limited, if we are to judge by the towels.

479 171

The next day was a most unfortunate day for me. After the business I had visited Contra Costa to execute had been finished, I mounted a horse with the intention of riding to Martriver, and from thence take the steamer to Sacramento, en route to the mountains. I was attended by two companions; my horse incessantly tripped; we were riding a very moderate canter, and I was so sure of the brute's disposition to fall, that I rode with constant attention. The road was like a gravel-walk, so even. I had just averted a well-pronounced trip, and remarked, "If this brute does stay on his feet all the journey, it will be a perfect miracle!" We had advanced hardly fifty yards, when down the beast came, his face actually on the ground; and, as 480 172 I was scarcely moved from the saddle, my left foot was underneath the animal's whole weight. I felt it grate upon the ground with the impetus of the lumpish carcass of the animal; I tried to stand, but my left foot had evidently struck work, and blood was streaming from an injury somewhere about it.

My companions contrived to put me on horseback again, and we turned back to Contra Costa. The hurt was very painful, and I rode in momentary expectation of another fall. Happily, we reached the inn safely; but I had to wait the next morning steamer to get over to San Francisco.

Next morning, up at six; a carriage to the steamer; the ancle enormously swollen, and a deep ragged cut in the hollow behind it; it seems a tolerable mess. Got to 481 173 Stockton Street to breakfast, and found there Dr. B--tt, who had arrived from Marysville, in consequence of Mrs. B--tt having severely injured her shoulder by a fall.

The Doctor took charge of me, and I felt myself greatly favoured by being in the hands of a skilful English physician. B--tt examined the injury, felt it everywhere, and scrutinised the cut, or rather tear; when he came to the following conclusion:--

"Well, short of a fracture, you have made the best smash I have seen for a long time."

Then came bandages, washes, &c.; but the former were taken off, for they gave both trouble to him and pain to me. I am to be laid up ten or twelve weeks, I am told.

482 174

What misery, to be in an American boarding-house, and unable to do anything for yourself--no bell to ring, though if there were, no one probably would answer it when rung. No one cares a jot about you, saving any friend who may be boarding in the same house. A cup of cold tea, a little bread and butter, are brought by a "help," who, heaven knows, is misnamed, with the remark--

"Well, I guess you feel bad."

Or if you discover any impatience under the pressure of hunger, he will observe--

"Well, you look kinder ugly at me, and I sha'n't come up again."

How often I have wished the United States were as thickly populated as are the British Islands, for then these boors would 483 175 see the advantages of civility; now, they do not distinguish between civility and servility.

In their boarding-houses it is starvation to stay up-stairs, and retarding recovery to come down to eat; of two evils select the least, so I came down to dinner, limping along, and Mrs. B--tt came with an arm in a sling: both rebuked by the Doctor--but what was to be done?

Reading the papers, I find the annexed notice of the action of a Vigilant Committee in Virginia--it is a free country!

"The Vigilance Committee of Grayson Company, Virginia, arrested one of their own citizens for being abolitionist, and required him to renounce his abolition 484 176 sentiments; and on his refusing, tied him to a tree and commenced whipping him. After receiving a dozen lashes, he agreed to renounce abolitionism, sell his land, and leave the State.

The same committee are in pursuit of others."

A duel has been fought of a character so ridiculous, that even those involved in it skulk from notice of it.

The heroes of it are mentioned in the morning papers as follows:--

"According to the San Francisco papers, Mr. Gwin and Mr. McCorkle did have a hostile meeting on Wednesday, at San Mateo, thirty miles south of San Francisco.

485 177

They fought with rifles at thirty paces, to wheel and fire at the word.

Three rounds were fired without effect, when, in the language of a card signed by their six friends, `the friends of the respective parties having discovered that their principals were fighting under a misapprehension of facts, mutually explained to their respective principals in what the misapprehension consisted.'"

My accident brings me a leve´e; amongst other English gentlemen, Mr. S--k--p called, and knowing the misery of an American boarding-house, very kindly allowed me to make an arrangement with him, by which I am to remove to his own house; this is as considerate in him, as it 486 178 will be beneficial to me. To-day I have made my last dinner at W--n--pt's boarding house; and such a dinner--two wild geese, a piece of beef nearly raw, some stewed apple tart, and before this is all got over, a cup of tea is handed round, instead of coffee.

My ancle very painful; Dr. B--tt says it will be so, if I will move about.

487 179
CHAPTER XXI.

A CHALLENGE.

A CERTAIN Mr. Lumsden, of Cincinnati, is very angry, because the "Times" has made some disparaging remarks upon the United States' contribution to the Exhibition at the Crystal Palace; so he challenges every on in England to produce any manufacture equal to that which can be made in the United States; and here follows his advertisement.

488 180

"The card below is from one of our respectable citizens, who has just returned from the `World's Fair.' He is able to make good the stake proposed. Let the John Bulls, official or unofficial, `face the music.'

CHALLENGE IN THE SUM OF TEN THOUSAND DOLLARS.

To the Editors of the `London Times'-- The Commissioners of the World's Fair, or others whom it may concern in Great Britain .

As comparisons have been invidiously and insultingly made towards Americans and their contributions by the `London Times,' the organ of that factious clique who control the London Fair--

I hereby challenge the editors of the 489 181 London Times--the Commissioners of the World's Fair, or others whom it may concern in Great Britain, in the sum of Ten Thousand Dollars, that they cannot find an Englishman--a British subject --who can equal in superiority of style, delicacy of execution, and perfection of workmanship, articles which were exhibited at the Mechanics' Institution in Cincinnati, in 1842.

I will take these articles, with the dust of nine years upon them, and place them against British superiority and skill.

I seek to produce nothing new or particular for this occasion, and will expose to the world, without any further effort, the prejudice, stupidity, and folly of those who control the Fair--and I dare them to the trial.

These articles, which can be brought 490 182 forward at a moment's notice, were made by an American citizen, in Cincinnati--one who has been a resident for almost one-third of the period since the white man felled the forest where this city stands.

The winner of the Ten Thousand Dollars must bind himself to appropriate the money to some benevolent institution or object in England or America.

Twelve judges to be appointed, who must be approved practical mechanics--six from Europe, and six from the United States. The decision of the majority to be final and binding.

If this challenge be accepted, I will name the articles; for the present, I merely state that they are ` out of the province of rugged utility .'

If this challenge be not accepted before 491 183 the expiration of the Fair now being held in London, I will give as a reward, the sum of One Thousand Dollars to any mechanic of Europe whose workmanship, now exhibiting in the Crystal Palace, will equal Cincinnati manufacture.

SAMUEL LUMSDEN."

If you were to find fault with the thunder and lightning, wind or rain, of the United States, it would probably call forth a challenge to produce better.

Left W--n--pt's this morning. Called at Mrs. S--m--d's as I passed, to see Mrs. B--tt and Mrs. McD--g--l, English 492 184 ladies. The Doctor had ordered me not to move the foot, if possible, in changing my residence; but I disobeyed, and got out to see the ladies. Mrs. B--tt's shoulder severely hurt; arm in a sling as before.

At Mr. S--k--p's in the afternoon. Himself and his wife so kind--every possible wish anticipated. The house so like that of English people--clean and comfortable. I change dirty living, innumerable rats, running about my bed even, and six squalling, ill-bred children, for the cleanest me´nage, two very good babies, an adjoining fowl yard, and a yelping dog.

My ancle dreadfully painful--no sleep.

Passed the night in great pain--literally no sleep; no posture gives a moment's 493 185 ease. Inflammation greatly increased about the lacerated part.

Dr. B--tt and Dr. J--l--y both came; very solemn faces--caustic and charcoal applied, continual poultices, the accession of the bad symptoms attributed to moving about yesterday. Lectures upon the positive necessity of lying in bed till a change for the better takes place; so Mrs. S--k--p very kindly brought me books and papers. Tried to write, but the ancle was too painful to allow of that.

My companion in the Frolic, Captain H--t--r, called; he wants a quartz lode on Moquelumne Hill worked. Like every other lode here, it is "the best."

In order to add to my comfort, Mr. and Mrs. S--k--p have ordered their tea into my room, so the evening will be enlivened; 494 186 and during the day very many acquaintances called to see me; so that with talking, reading, and changing poultices, I continue to pass the time.

Mrs. W--k--n sent me some grapes, and a bouquet of flowers; Mrs. L--r a dozen fresh eggs--eggs sell for half a dollar each, and are paid for as "extras" at the hotels. It is worth while to sprain an ancle, when the consequence is such kindness.

"Appointment .--We are happy to learn that our cotemporary, J. E. Lawrence, Esq., of the Times and Transcript, has been appointed Aide-de-Camp to his Excellency Governor Bigler, with the rank of Colonel of Cavalry. The Colonel is a handsome man, and a judge of music. 495 187 The Commander-in-Chief has displayed good taste and judgment in his selection. `Place him where France most needs a soldier.'"

This is the manner by which the United States acquires so many Colonels; the Governor of each State can appoint himself four aides-de-camp; from the date of the appointment they rank with a "Colonel of Cavalry;" they are not selected from military life; the qualifications of the new Colonel editor are set forth in the notice; but I think the line should read, "place him where France least wants a soldier," if these are his only title to a soldier's name.

496 188

All manner of kind attentions are generously showered upon me in my helplessness, but nothing so considerate and so gratifying as a note from Mrs. B--tt, brought this morning by the Doctor, so thoroughly like an English lady in every syllable. B--tt says the ancle is better, but still distrusts my lying quiet; so he has compromised the matter by allowing me to lie on a sofa all day, with my foot elevated on a frame.

"Transit across the Isthmus .--We understand that the treasure which goes to the Atlantic States by the New Orleans, will be accompanied across the Isthmus under charge of General Mosquera's guards."

497 189

This notice, from a Panama paper, appears, and, I should think, would render the transit of treasure more unsafe; "deliver me from my friends!" "Generals" on this side of the Atlantic are to thick upon the ground.

498 190
CHAPTER XXII.

RESCUE OF A PRISONER--RECORDER'S COURT.

A " STABBING AFFAIR " at Columbia, and subsequent proceedings, are detailed as follows in a San Francisco evening paper:--

"The stabbing affair of yesterday caused a great excitement to prevail amongst the large concourse of miners 499 191 and others assembled about the courthouse throughout the day.

When the officers brought out the prisoner for the purpose of conveying him to Sonora, people rushed upon them and carried off the object of their indignation, dragging him through the town to a tree, to a limb of which was already suspended the rope designed for his neck.

Without any preliminaries whatever, it was adjusted, and the next moment the prisoner was suspended in the air; but the limb broke, and it was then decided to give him a trial by jury.

While this was going on, the Sheriff of Sonora arrived, and attempted to rescue the prisoner from the hands of the populace, but was defeated.

500 192

Some five or six hours were occupied in the hearing the witnesses, &c.; at the expiration of which time, the Sheriff succeeded in obtaining the malefactor, and carried him to Sonora."

The Recorder's Court often affords much amusement to the idle vagabonds who are fortunate enough to avoid its jurisdiction. The following are specimens of cases before the "Honourable" the Recorder, who bears a title in spite of the republican repudiation of such things.

RECORDER'S COURT.

Honourable G. W. Baker, Recorder.

J. H. Burke, hard drinking, five dollars.

Thomas Donahue, drunk for a week, beat his wife, pulled her out of bed, 501 193 threw dishes at her, tore her clothes off, and was very riotous.

Sent to City Prison for sixty days.

Frank Weisic, D.D., City Prison two days.

Jerry McCarty, drunk again, beat his wife, broke the window and got nabbed by an officer.

Jerry said his wife got drunk and gave him no peace of his life, and he had to get drunk to keep even.

The Recorder evidently did not believe him, and he was sent down stairs for thirty days.

"Difference of Opinion .--Three young men were accused by Officer Johnson with obstructing and annoying him in discharge of his duty.

The defendants denied all knowledge 502 194 of the matter, but the evidence was so positive that they were fined ten dollars each."

"Helping Himself .--An ancient rumhead, who gave his name as Edward Otis, was discovered by an officer yesterday morning, a short time before daylight, tapping a hogshead of brandy.

He had filled his demijohn half full when arrested.

Sent to the City Prison ninety days for vagrancy."

At the close of this month I am still confined to my room by the state of the sprain, the lacerated part very 503 195 painful; but every thing that kindness can do to ameliorate discomforts is most willingly and most successfully done by Mr. and Mrs. S--k--p.

504 196
CHAPTER XXIII.

NOVEMBER.

1ST. During the night the first rain for the season fell; it may now be expected to fall heavily for four or five weeks, then some fine weather in January; after that, heavy rain more or less till the end of March.

The surface miners and quartz crushers are all rejoicing in the prospect of getting a large amount of gold.

505 197

In Ohio they seem to do things in a summary way; for instance:--

"Great excitement has been produced in Cleveland by the alleged discovery of several dead human bodies on or near the premises of the Homœopathic College in that City, among which, it is said, a gentleman from Ohio City recognized the body of his daughter, who died a short time since.

The people in the neighbourhood became greatly excited, and the fire-bells were rung four or five times, until the College buildings were surrounded by an infuriated multitude, who commenced destroying the windows and everything contained in the building.

The crowd burst in, ransacked the rooms, and cast their contents from the windows.

506 198

A full-length skeleton was lashed to a barber's pole and carried about the streets.

The building was twice fired, but extinguished.

The Light Artillery and several companies were called out.

The mob continued throughout the day, and at our last telegraphic dispatch was not quelled."

More grapes, bouquets, and fresh eggs, sent to me by Mrs. W--k--n, an American lady living close by; her husband holds an office under the U.S. Government here; they have made round their house a lovely flower-garden 507 199 out of what before was but a barren land.

I have just finished "Dickens's American Notes;" before reading them, I had decided, in a very prejudiced manner, that these "Notes" had been written in an ungenerous spirit: having read them, I can find no trace of such a feeling. Every one knew that Dickens could write what he met with in the United States; and if by feˆtes the people hoped to blind him to their follies, they had to take the chance of the speculation being successful. He was not blinded; and now, because he wrote what he saw, and made people laugh at his stories, treats the boast of freedom as a farce while it upholds slavery, and condemns the savage duelling system of the Americans, they call him 508 200 ungrateful, and are ready to tar and feather him; all because a few dinners could not bribe him to write "smooth things," where they are not to be found unalloyed.

509 201
CHAPTER XXIV.

FIRE AT SACRAMENTO.

IT has blown a heavy gale all night; the shipping have received great damage, and they in turn have done as much to the wharves.

News has just arrived that during the gale a fire broke out in Sacramento, in the quarter from whence the wind blew.

510 202

In a few hours the flames spread entirely over the town, the gale increased in strength, and there remained no possible means of arresting the fire in its horrible course.

With the exception of two or three brick buildings, the whole city was levelled in one black smoking mass before the sun rose, and fifteen thousand souls left houseless, many destitute.

No one can imagine the rapidity of the destruction of these towns who has not seen one on fire; the wood itself perfectly dry, and full of turpentine, aids power-fully the fire, and the flame is furious as clear.

Immediately the destruction of the city was evident, some speculators dispatched emissaries to Nevada, Marysville, 511 203 Stockton, and other places to buy up all the lumber, then selling at about seventy dollars the thousand feet: they also chartered a steamer to go to San Francisco, with the engagement that the vessel should hold no communication with that place until the charterers had been landed some hours.

This was all fulfilled; the speculators bought up all the lumber everywhere, and as the winter had just begun, people in Sacramento must have houses, so they could only buy from those who held the lumber, which instantly rose to nearly two hundred and fifty dollars per thousand feet! Vultures hasten to the carrion!

The loss in Sacramento is estimated at one million sterling.

512 204

Large subscriptions in aid of the sufferers are advertised already, and the amount is rapidly increasing.

The demand from that place for every species of merchandise is so great as to double the prices.

This day, November sixth, the steamer from Panama came in; she brings the intelligence of the death of the Duke of Wellington, at Walmer Castle, in the eighty-fourth year of his age; all the English flags in the harbour lowered half-mast, and remained so during one week.

It is now nearly a month since I sprained my ancle, and I am as little able 513 205 to walk as at first; the lacerated part is fast healing, but it is all very painful. Not much variety in changing from a bed to a sofa. The evenings pass very pleasantly, as Mr. and Mrs. S--k--p come up always to have their tea with me.

A fire in the city at nine this night.

The New York papers say, "now that the Duke of Wellington is no more, it is obvious to the world, that General Winfield Scott is the greatest military Captain of the age." The "world" scarcely knows of the existence of this great chief!

The merchants who sold the lumber to 514 206 the Sacramento speculators will not deliver it, because they say they were unaware of the cause of the purchase; now the party buying only did so to make a profit of it, and for what other purpose is it now withheld?

The fire of last night burned down all the houses between Clay and Merchant Streets; it was stopped by the Plaza to the west, and by Montgomery Street to the east.

Maconochie came from the mountains to see me. A long conference on the subject of the winter proceedings.

Dr. B--tt still using caustic on the 515 207 wound; what a precious bother a simple fall has made! A good deal of rain has fallen in the last two or three days.

M--h--e very unwell, with a bad sore throat; he is a disciple of the Homœopathic school; but now finds it better to apply to Dr. B--tt, who fears an abscess will form.

I have leave to go out in a carriage, on condition that I keep my foot elevated; indeed, that I must do, for otherwise the pain is severe, and the wound bleeds afresh. B--tt came and applied the confounded caustic again. Drove with Mrs. B--tt to the Abbey-house; the country is beautifully green after the rain.

Dined at Mrs. S--y--d's, in Stockton Street; a farewell dinner to Mr. and Mrs. McD--g--ll, who are going to their 516 208 quartz-mill in the mountains--we shall greatly miss them. Rain again.

At breakfast, Mr. S--k--p told me the ship which has the engine for me has arrived. It is a heavy Cornish engine; altogether there are about ninety tons--it is contrived that this shall come just as the rains prevent my moving it up the country, and the storeage will be, at least, two dollars per ton per month--one way of dissipating a small capital, for the whole must be stored for six months.

At Neuada, it seems, the men are endeavouring to get rid of the women; two of the latter were mortally wounded by pistol-shots three days ago--the 517 209 offenders are taken into custody, and that will be all.

"The United States' ship `Vandalia,' Commander William H. Gardner, arrived at New York on the sixth of October, from a cruise in the Pacific viaˆ Valparaiso, Rio de Janeiro, and Pernambuco.

The `Vandalia' sailed from Norfolk on the fifth of September, one thousand eight hundred and forty-nine, and was absent three years and one month, during which time she visited nearly all the ports of North and South America, upon the Pacific coast--some of them two and three times; besides being employed for a year on important duty at the Sandwich Islands.

A naval court-martial assembled on the eighteenth of October, at the navy-yard 518 210 in Philadelphia, to try the crew of the `Vandalia,' for offences committed during the cruise."

This notice of the intended trial by a court-martial of the "crew" of the United States' ship-of-war "Vandalia," will give a tolerably good idea of the consequence of abolishing corporal punishment, as the American Government have; here is a captain calling for a court-martial upon the entire crew of his ship!

Being still unable to walk, and ordered to get out in the air, I am driven about in a carriage for some hours in the day.

I am generally accompanied by one or two English ladies, who have compassionated my helpless state.

There is but little variety, and the roads 519 211 are now getting muddy; but we continue to get as far as the Lake-house every day, about seven miles from San Francisco.

From this house, which is an inn, the view of the sea is very grand, as it rolls its heavy waves in upon the beach.

The sea-breeze here is most exhilarating, and at this period of the year, the drive for some distance is over the green tender shoot of the grass, just beginning to recover from the long-continued heat of the past summer.

A decision of Judge M--r--y has given great offence.

It seems the city of San Francisco could not pay the claim of a certain Peter 520 212 Smith, for some services performed by him; upon which the said Peter seizes upon some large number of city lots, and the sheriff sells them; other creditors of the city look upon this as an injustice, the city having assigned all its property, and they bring an action to nullify the sales in question; Judge M--r--y, however, confirms them.

The "Alta Californian" calls it swindling, and every one believes that the influence of the dollars decided the judgment.

"Difficulties in Grass Valley .--A difficulty occurred this evening about a trifling matter, between a baker of this place, named Patrick Doyle, and a man named Andrew Byrne, which they finally made up, and drank together. Soon 521 213 after, Doyle challenged the other to fight.

He replied, he would not fight there, but would meet him in the morning if he wanted to fight, and then turned to go away. Doyle drew a pistol, and shot Byrne in the abdomen, inflicting, it is thought, a mortal wound.

An intense excitement was raised. Doyle was taken by a crowd to a butcher's shambles, for the purpose of being lynched; but a little delay occurring in getting a rope, objections were made to the proceedings by some of the by-standers, and it eventually ended by handing Doyle over to the officers of the law, and he was sent off to jail."

Such events as this now appended, are so frequent, as to preclude any 522 214 expression of horror; they are, indeed, expected, and held to be rather necessary for the support of interest in the columns of the papers, where the fact of a murder is termed a "difficulty," and more frequently described with flippant wit, than with honest reproof.

This day, the twenty-fifth, is set apart as a day of "General Thanksgiving for all Blessings and Mercies," &c.

The engagements of the day have filled the saloons rather than the churches; some very silly attempts at military display have contrasted with unmeaning processions, and exhibition of Fire Companies, dragging about their engines. 523 215 Why these companies, if they must show themselves so often to the people, will persist in dragging their engines through the mud, no one but a native of the United States can divine--it does look like a very silly proceeding.

Drove out on the San Mateo road with Mrs. B--tt, who seemed to be benefitted by the sea-air; it was rather cold, but being well wrapped up, she seemed to enjoy it.

It is a great happiness to me, that I am able to show, in some trifling way, how truly I appreciate the kindness shown to me by Dr. and Mrs. B--tt; every day till I can walk without injury to my 524 216 sprained ancle, I shall continue these drives, provided I can get so eligible a companion, whose presence for a few hours compensates for exposure to the uncivilised state of the general society of this place.

A three-story brick, in California Street, "caved in," and fell with a monstrous crash. So much for building on sand!

It is now the last day of November, and here I have been scarcely able to move, on account of my sprained ancle, ever since the seventeenth of October.

I am anxious to go to the mining 525 217 works in the mountains, but Dr. Bennett ridicules the idea; indeed, I could only sit still, if I went there. But it is a great nuisance, and costs a mint of money in this country, where, if a man only brushed your coat, he would expect, at least, a dollar!

526 218
CHAPTER XXV.

THE JENNY LIND THEATRE--CATHERINE HAYES--AMERICAN CHARACTER.

THE grand jury have been examining into the circumstances attending the purchase, by the city, of the "Jenny Lind" theatre, which is to be converted into a court-house; it is well known that many thousand dollars have been given for this theatre more than a court-house could have been built for!

All the contracts sent in were far 527 219 under the price given for the "Jenny Lind."

However, the whole affair seems a very "smart" job, and it is tolerably well understood in what direction much of the purchase-money goes.

The worthy occupants of the new city-hall, or court-house, will, however, perform as good farces before the public as ever were exhibited here, only the payment for them will be a much more serious consideration.

Catherine Hayes is here, delighting the people with her vocal powers, which, if not of the highest order, are extremely attractive; besides which, she appears with the most unquestionable reputation--a character that is supported by her conduct and deportment here.

528 220

Miss Hayes is accompanied by her mother.

The first concert given by Miss Hayes takes place this evening (the thirtieth), and every one seems enthusiastic about it, although not one of the citizens has probably ever heard her sing, or seen her perform before.

This is quite in accordance with the American mind, which yields to an impulse, and rushes forward, like an avalanche, overwhelming everything in its course.

Nothing can arrest its progress short of the attainment of its object, so long as the means of "going ahead" are possessed; when attainment is sated, or when means fail, a prostration takes place, and as the same avalanche which it 529 221 resembled at its outset lies cold and motionless when it has terminated its sweeping career, so the American mind, prostrated for a time by its own heated impulse, succumbs beneath the impassioned exertion; but in this inaction it revives, and soon the community are seen as strenuously chasing some other attraction, it matters not of what kind; it may be the election of a governor, or that of the chief of a Fire Company; the presentation of plate to a steamer captain, who has survived the unaccountable wreck of his steamer, or the hurrying on of some wretch to be lynched on a tree; the appearance of an actress of spotless reputation and celebrity, or that of a Lola Montes horsewhipping a miner, from whom an insult had been 530 222 received; the embarcation of "fillibusters" to perpetrate burglary on a scale commensurate with the extent of the United States; or the arrival of a steamer with a thousand passengers on board from New York. Excitement there must be; it is the food of the American mind; with it the American acknowledges no restraint--without it, his exertions scarcely supply his wants; he is either impetuously bounding forward, or idly depending upon others.

531 223
CHAPTER XXVI.

DECEMBER.

THE month commenced with a drizzling morning, which cleared up "some" towards noon; the rain, however, has begun to show its powers this year, and at Sacramento the embankment, or "levee," is stated to be so much injured that it is feared the city will be flooded; if it gives way, this certainly will be the state 532 224 of the place, for the banks of the river are higher than the ground behind them. This embankment was too weak a defence against the weight of the winter stream, and it has been infinitely weakened by the innumerable rats which every summer burrow in it like rabbits.

"Sale of Tickets to Miss Hayes' Concert--Choice Seat at one thousand, one hundred and twenty-five dollars !--At twelve o'clock this morning, Messrs. Theodore Payne and Co. proceeded to sell, at the American Theatre, the tickets to choice seats to Miss Katherine Hayes' third musical concert.

A large crowd had collected, and the excitement was great.

533 225

The first ticket, after much competition, was knocked off to George W. Green, for the enormous sum of one thousand, one hundred and twenty-five dollars !

Mr. Green is a butcher in the Pacific Market, on Central Wharf, and the worthy foreman of Empire Engine Company No. 1.

The ticket was put down in the name of that company, as the foreman felt a peculiar pride in seeing it placed number one in the choice of seats, as well as in the regular line of the Fire Department.

The remainder of choice seats sold at a premium of from five to twenty dollars."

Some idea may be formed, by reading 534 226 the appended statement, of the feeling which now rages in San Francisco with reference to the desire to witness the performance of Miss Katherine Hayes.

The practice of selling opera tickets by auction seems curious to Europeans, and would scarcely answer well, excepting amongst a community so excitable, and so ready to compete, as are the Americans of the United States.

Here, for instance, is a butcher, the foreman of a fire-engine company, who triumphantly delights in having possessed himself of a "choice" seat to hear the music at Miss Hayes' concert, for the enormous sum of two hundred and twenty-five pounds! This is precisely an instance of that impulsive mind before mentioned. For my part, I think 535 227 the purchaser, Mr. Green, is very appropriately named, and no doubt few will be green enough to oppose his pursuit at that cost.

During the performance there were many bouquets thrown from the audience to the stage as Miss Hayes finished her songs, &c.

In many of these there was a fifty-dollar gold piece. One person in this manner presented a valuable diamond brooch; but a Patlander, enchanted by her strains beyond all personal control, yelled his applause, threw his hat upon the stage, exclaiming loudly, --

"By the powers! darlint, here's my hat for yer, and it's all I have got to give ye!"

The audience on these occasions 536 228 present a motley display of dress; many well-dressed ladies and gentlemen occupy positions close to the workman in his red or blue woollen frock in which he works--certainly it is generally a new one. The dollar decides the right of seat without regulating the dress of the person occupying it: however, on this especial occasion, the important fact of Mr. Green's fire-engine company having appeared in "their full uniforms," (namely, red woollen frocks, and blue trousers,) is duly recorded in the newspaper of the next morning.

News of the election of Mr. Frankland Pierce to the Presidency of the United 537 229 States has arrived, and the democrats greatly exult, supposing that he will advocate their views; they in consequence fire one hundred guns, and when the last gun has been fired, not one in the crowd will give another cheer for the newly-elected President.

I am preparing to go up to the works. I can make but a bad walk of it yet, nevertheless. The rivers have swollen enormously, and the plains are reported to be overflowed.

Marysville is flooded by the united streams of the Yuba and Feather rivers; however, the rains have ceased for a few days, perhaps.

538 230

To-day the "Marysville Herald" says the river is out of the bar-room of the Merchants' Hotel, and probably will be out of the cellars in a day or two, as the Yuba is falling at the rate of thirty inches an hour; so far, the prospect is hopeful for the community of the hotel.

539 231
CHAPTER XXVII.

EXECUTION OF A MEXICAN.

THIS morning, at an early hour, people were observed moving towards the summit of an elevated sand-hill at the back of the city, and overlooking it.

On enquiry, I was told that that conspicuous location had been fixed upon for the erection of a gallows, the period for the execution of a Mexican named Forni having arrived.

540 232

This man had murdered another Mexican in a very brutal manner, and well deserved his punishment.

As the day advanced, the summit and sides of the sand hill swarmed with human beings--they seemed clustered together like bees on a tree branch, and for the purpose of seeing a criminal convulsed and writhing in the agonies of a violent death!

This desire appeared to pervade all classes of the Americans in the city.

About eleven o'clock the prisoner was taken from the jail, attended by the sheriff, &c., and conveyed towards the place of his execution. On his arrival there, a delay suddenly took place; it was determined that the murderer should not be hung in so conspicuous a spot, because 541 233 it might offend the feelings of the inhabitants of the city!"

Offend the feelings of a population of all classes and sexes, which had already competed for the possession of the places from which the dying struggles of a human being could be most minutely witnessed!

The removal of the gallows was carried into effect, and a spot selected on the west side of the hill, from which no part of the city could be seen.

While the gallows was in progress to this spot, the contention for proximity to it, in order to maintain a close position to it at the last moment of the existence of the wretched criminal, was eager beyond description; --savagely vying, like hounds, to taste the blood of the victim they had run to death.

542 234

To give importance to the work, the "Marion rifles," in full uniform, were marched to the ground; for what reason, except to show their uniforms, it would be impossible to conceive, for assuredly no vestige of an intention to rescue could be discerned. The civil power had already a whole populace to aid in completing the execution, if aid were wanting: however, out marched the Marion Rifles, as gaily as if proceeding to celebrate the fourth of July or the election of a foreman of a fire-engine company, the enthusiasm in either case being about equal.

It was not till nearly half past two, that the execution was completed; the wretched murderer was kept full three hours upon the ground to be jeered at, and baited by a populace, many of which 543 235 merited his death, while the authorities were hesitating upon, and changing the place of execution.

In a short time after the sheriff had performed his last duties, the crowd returned, the Marion Rifles leading the way attended by a band as at first, playing a lively air; this gallant corps then went through several evolutions on the Plaza, for the gratification of the citizens, little apparently remembering the solemn event, which it had attended but half-an-hour before.

I have no mercy for a murderer; but it does appear to me that when his execution is so indecorously conducted, the crime and punishment which should inspire horror and awe, are productive, instead, of curiosity and rejoicing.

544 236

For a detail of the execution, and the behaviour of the people, the "Alta California" newspaper may be referred to.

I go to the mountains this afternoon, taking the steamer to Marysville; the day has been very damp, a heavy mist, almost deserving to be called rain, frequently falling. Until the period of embarcation arrived, I had the great pleasure of sitting in Dr. B--tt's house, for I make a very bad hand of walking yet. Having had a lunch there, I took leave of himself and Mrs. B--tt. To Dr. B--tt's skill and attention, I am indebted for my recovery so far from the results of an 545 237 accident which at one time threatened serious consequences; and to him and Mrs B--tt I am indebted for evenings which reminded me of English society in its fullness of purity, courtesy, and sincerity. What a contrast to my future evenings for the next six months.

In the morning, at Sacramento. The city is rapidly rising from its ashes; the "Orleans" hotel, which six or eight weeks ago was utterly destroyed by fire, now again displays itself, built of brick. If everything corresponded with the buoyancy of the American mind under circumstances of disastrous consequences, the 546 238 nation would be unrivalled. The alacrity with which a ruin is overcome is wonderful: but unfortunately the laws induce too great a carelessness as to the means of supporting this alacrity; engagements are made without the shadow of a prospect of carrying them out faithfully; frequently there is no intention of doing so. However, brick houses are now replacing those of wood lately burned, and, as the Americans say, Sacramento will now be "quite" a city.

Beds at a premium; but for the kindness of my friend B--e, I must have slept in the bar-room, I believe.

547 239
CHAPTER XXVIII.

MARYSVILLE.--EFFECTS OF THE FLOOD.

TO Marysville this morning. As the boat passed up the stream, which now is more marked out by the tops of the trees than by the banks on which they are growing, the plains appeared one enormous lake; nothing gave the idea of the flood being temporary, but the fact of trees standing 548 240 half submerged in the water, and here and there a house upon some isolated eminence, raised just above the surface of the flood, cattle clinging to its sides, all looking very disconsolate, and apparently a poor representative of the ark, when first left by the receding waters.

Curious occurrences in relation to the buildings of Marysville, took place during this flood.

Many zinc houses were washed down, and, of course, remained where they fell. Not so the wooden buildings, which being badly, or perhaps not at all, secured to any foundation, as soon as the water became of sufficient depth to float some of these away, they went in the course of the stream.

549 241

One that was passed on its way down the river, had a sign up, stating that "rest for the weary, and dry storage for trunks," might be had in it.

Another, on a similar voyage, informed us, that there "hot coffee might be had at all hours;" but one exhibited a most determined adhesion on the part of its owner; it was true, this last still retained its place, but was flooded; it appeared to be the residence of a laundress, whom, as the water forced her from the ground floor, retired to the next with all the insignia of her avocation: from that she could only retreat to the roof, which was flat; here she secured all her tubs, &c., and defied the waters. A boat was sent to bring her off; but she declined, and only asked for food, which was sent to her. In a few 550 242 hours afterwards, the flood began to fall; no sooner had it left the upper floor than she took possession again, and so on, till she found herself, tubs and all, in a position to resume her professional pursuit in the hot water and suds.

At Marysville, and a cold, blowing morning; the streets knee-deep nearly in mud, the consequence of the late floods. I am hobbling about, supported by a thick stick, my ancle much swollen by the recent unusual exertion, and suffering also under a well-expressed attack of lumbago.

Walking in the streets is out of the question for me, so I sent for my horse, 551 243 but when it came I could not avail myself of my left foot to mount on the proper side, the joint being so weak; fortunately sailors have the privilege of getting on a horse as they find convenient, and sitting there as they best can, without being charged with any infringement of equestrian rules, so I mounted on the wrong side, and rode to the Quintag ranche to see Captain P--x; he has a beautiful location here, extending over some large tract, which is rendered extremely fertile by the overflowing of the Yuba.

I was informed that during the winter, this river frequently leaves a coating of soil to the depth of two or three inches annually, and thus the soil of such lands becomes manured, and yields extraordinary crops at the appointed season. This year, 552 244 however, the Captain had suffered largely by the redundant supply of the river, for although he had placed his stacks of hay and corn on apparently a secure elevation, yet the fullness to which it sometimes reached had not been contemplated, and nearly the entire results of the hard work and industry of the spring, summer, and autumn were swept away before the power of the remorseless waters of the Yuba.

The courses of the rivers this year could scarcely be recognised; there was but a faint and broken line of the tops of oak trees to give the limit of their natural banks; the plain appeared to be one vast sea, moving to join the adjacent ocean.

These losses are very discouraging to any one who displays as much industry 553 245 and judgment in his pursuits as does the Captain. I may now add forbearance to the other good qualities, for I have not heard one word of complaint from him.

554 246
CHAPTER XXIX.

HOTEL LIFE.

GOT home again at one o'clock, just in time to be assailed by the stunning gong calling the good citizens ensconced in the Merchants' Hotel to dinner.

It may seem curious to us this middle of the day dinner, but it is not very long since the richer men of England have denounced that hour for the later period of 555 247 six and seven; and even now a meal at the first hour is secured, bearing in many instances a very suspicious resemblance to a dinner, though called a lunch. Indeed, it is currently reported that the ladies still do make their dinners then. However, it cannot be denied that the middle of the day dinner sadly breaks in upon both business and amusement so far as the men are involved, and has a farther tendency to make them seek other places than their own family hearth in which to pass the evening after the business of the day has closed. Many of the Americans are indeed adopting this later hour for dinner, and having done so, give the practice the preference.

A residence in these hotels is a severe method of doing penance, especially for 556 248 those who are not from necessity driven to early hours, or who from illness are precluded from them; the latter was my case, so far as a half-recovered sprained ancle, and a rather well-developed lumbago, gave me a claim to a place in the category of invalids.

At seven o'clock the astounding gong makes its tour of all the passages; this is to warn the tenants of the several bedrooms that it is proper to rise and prepare for breakfast. At eight this horrible device for bringing people to that meal is again put in operation, and immediately a general delivery of ladies and gentlemen from the chambers are seen converging to one point at the stair head, then a long narrow line of the same material briskly advances to the breakfast tables, two of 557 249 which, each capable of accommodating two hundred persons, are spread, or in American phrase "set," with sundry dishes making a vast show, but containing some very small matters. From the table you often have a view of the proceedings and manipulations of the kitchen, which contributes all its heat and steams to the breakfast room, and from whence tea, coffee, and beef-steak are issued out as called for by the "helps."

The rapidity with which the American completes his repast is indescribable; this is effected by placing on one plate every thing he intends to eat; he anticipates the mixture, which other races perfect in a more leisurely manner, and without exhibiting collection.

It is really sickening to see these 558 250 compounds, as the items blend into one mass upon the plate of your vis-a`-vis . So habituated are the waiters to the practice, that while you are being engaged with roast beef, the natives having nearly gone through everything, will commonly bring you a piece of apple or peach pie, some plum pudding, &c.; and they do it as an attention.

Should you be indifferent to the inviting crash of the gong, and indulge an extra hour in bed, you get no breakfast in the hotel, and must resort to a restaurant, where people are allowed to be hungry at different hours; at the hotel, you must all be hungry together.

After breakfast the gentlemen go to business, the ladies to nothing; the 559 251 children, of which there generally are many, race and play about the passages all day, cry, screech, and laugh as occasion may command.

The dinner, and supper, or tea, are but a variation of the breakfast, excepting that at the former, many ladies think it right to appear at dinner rather decolte´e for so early an hour of the day, a practice I observed to obtain at New York as well as at Marysville; only at New York, the dinner was two hours, at least, later.

Wine is but seldom seen upon the hotel tables of this country, but dinner being finished there is a general descent to the bar-room, where each gratifies his own taste with one of those "drinks," so ludicrously named by the American, 560 252 and some of which are infinitely delightful. Match me if you can, the sherry cobbler taken in ice through a straw, on a hot day! try a mint julep, your desire for it will recur; this latter is so favourite a "drink" in Virginia, that it is asserted the mint springs up over every grave holding a Virginian.

These hotels are bad schools for children; some now running wild, not more than six or seven years of age, are already very conversant with the cigar, and with the oaths so frequently used by the American in common parlance.

Two of these children came into the "gentlemen's parlour" last evening, late, each brining a glass of whiskey toddy, smoking each a cigar, and drawing their 561 253 chairs to the stove, threw their feet upon it in the most approved fashion.

Miss C. Hayes still continues to delight the San Franciscans, and they appear to have taken a hint from the Irishman who some little time ago, having nothing better to give in expression of his admiration, threw his hat to her in the theatre.

"Kate Hayes' Riding Hats .--To the ladies. O. H. Boyd most respectfully solicits the ladies of San Francisco to call and examine the new style of Riding Hats.

562 254

The hat presented to Miss Hayes on Thursday evening, can be seen for one day only, at his establishment, 152 and 154, Commercial Street.

Ladies, please call early and leave your orders."

The tickets of admission to her concerts still command, or "rule," commercially speaking, at a high figure; Mr. Samuel Brannan, originally a Mormon leader, would naturally be a general admirer, and willing to pay high for the ticket.

"Sale of the Tickets for Miss Hayes' Concert .--The most spirited bidding that has yet occurred at the sale of tickets, took place yesterday at the American Theatre.

At one o'clock the auction commenced, and the first seat was secured by Mr. 563 255 Samuel Brannan, for six hundred and twenty-five dollars.

The second was purchased by Mr. George W. Green, for the Empire Co., for one hundred dollars.

Ex-Alderman Hyatt took the next six seats for fifty dollars, and Alderman Case the next six for twenty-five dollars.

The remainder sold at one to five dollars' premium.

The price paid for the first ticket of the seventh concert, exceeds, we believe, anything paid for the same ticket at the first concert of any singer in the Atlantic cities, and goes to prove that the interest felt in Miss Hayes' concert is still unabated.

The concert of to night, in benefit of the Firemen's Charitable Relief Fund, will 564 256 as a matter of course secure the lady a full house.

No more worthy or popular object could have been selected for the purpose."

565 257
CHAPTER XXX.

HOTEL PARLOURS.

STILL unable to leave Marysville, the plains being under water, and this last night's rain has again filled the bar-room of the hotel, and what is much worse is, the fact of this inundation driving the bar-room society into what is called the "gentlemen's parlour;" this said parlour was always disagreable enough, but now has become very low indeed.

566 258

The evenings in these parlours of the hotels are passed by the Californian-American in winter, by sitting round a stove, upon which as many as can, rest their feet; the whole engage themselves in keeping up an independent discharge of the infusion of tobacco, which is largely, and with much industry, produced by nine hundred and ninety-nine Americans out of one thousand--this is not an exaggerated proportion: very little conversation goes on, and that which does, almost uniformly turns upon the illness under which the speaker last suffered. Notice of smoking being disallowed in the parlour is conspicuously exhibited near a glass, and of course, in a "free country," as conspicuously disregarded.

567 259

The "ladies' parlour" is somewhat more lively; in it there is almost always a pianoforte, and many of the ladies play with considerable execution and taste; I do not remember to have heard the notes of the higher classes of composition attempted by the occupants of this parlour, but the waltz, polka, and music of popular songs are certainly generally played. Scotch music, and the airs composed for the songs of Haynes Bayley (who is a much-favoured poet in America), are highly pleasing to these lady amateurs; I fear their voices are not in unison with their musical prowess.

Waltzing and dancing in its varieties distinguish the habits of the "ladies' parlour;" it is not etiquette to enter the precincts of this retreat unless acquainted 568 260 with a lady using it; however, proper as this rule is, it requires but the intervention of an acquaintance enjoying the entre´e, to enable a stranger to overcome it. One lady is here whose melancholy fate has reduced her to an untimely widowhood; an event she mourns in a low dress during the day, and by waltzing in the evening. Her late husband last year held a municipal position at Sacramento, and had been shot: and these are the evenings I now encounter!

The water rapidly rising: it is within four feet of the balcony upon which the first floor opens; no one can leave the house but by means of a boat; many 569 261 of these are in constant attendance, a ladder being so placed as to facilitate a descent into them. It sounds curious when the boatman calls out to invite you "to come on shore," just as if you were in a ship.

Upon the rivers vast damage has been inflicted by these floods upon the miners; their "diggings" have been inundated, flumes and implements of all kinds carried off no one knows where; for a time, digging is suspended.

570 262
CHAPTER XXXI.

PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING MARYSVILLE.

THE weather seems clearing up, and, unless a deluge is intended, the sooner the better. It is "kinder" lower in the bar-room, but cannot altogether leave that locality for three or four days. No communication with the mountains yet.

News has arrived that the levee at 571 263 Sacramento has given way, the city becoming at once fearfully inundated; providentially, the inhabitants have been living in expectation of this event, and provision has been made for the security of life; but a vast amount of property must be sacrificed.

As I am only waiting the pleasure of the waters, with reference to my departure for the mountains, I made a reconnaissance of the plains this morning (the twenty-second), and find them passable, excepting where the "sloughs" intersect the route; these are winter rivers, and run with great force on their way to the main streams. There are three of these 572 264 on my road between Marysville and the mountains, so my proceeding to eat a Christmas dinner with my good friend and fellow quartz-crusher, McD--g--ll, is problematical.

The cold, wet weather does not at all agree with my swollen ancle--it is very stiff and painful; what a mess that falling horse has made of it for me.

Very gay, and noisy withal, in the "ladies' parlour" this evening, so I went to bed; to sleep, is a consummation to be implored, when imprisoned in these hotels--tobacco-smoke, tobacco-juice, drinks, and swearing all round.

Raining again! Nevertheless, I dispatched a waggon with stores of all kinds 573 265 to the Company's works at Dicksburgh, but the day was too bad to allow of my proceeding there also, so I have another evening in all the delights of the hotel. At present, certainly the place is seen to a disadvantage, because the proprietors, one of whom has been a judge, the other a medical practitioner, have exercised so little knowledge in the art of managing such business, that they are under the disadvantage of an intimacy with the sheriff, under whose guidance the place is about to change masters.

It cleared up in the evening, and I called upon Captain P-- x, who continued to live in the house lately occupied by Dr. and Mrs. B--tt, where I had passed so many pleasant evenings.

What a sad aspect the building has 574 266 assumed, since it has been left by them! ends of cigars and litters everywhere.

As I sat on the air-cushioned sofa, it seemed to breathe its last sigh. Upon a wooden peg in the wall, an old straw bonnet found a resting-place; the faded ribbons attached to it waved in melancholy obedience to the various draughts of wind that entered from sundry openings; and it was the only emblem left to argue that once the room had boasted attractions now lost to it for ever; for in spite of the ownership of the bonnet being repudiated by the former lady of the house, I have still some lingering suspicions on the question. Goats leapt from a pile of lumber, over which the captain presided, to the verandah roof near it, 575 267 and rats meandered about warily in search of any cast-away remnant of a luncheon, for now the place was used only as an office--its glory had departed.

576 268
CHAPTER XXXII.

DEPARTURE FROM MARYSVILLE.

THE twenty-fourth, left Marysville on horseback, about ten o'clock, en route for the mountains; but the travelling is so bad, and my ancle so stiff and "sorter" painful, that I shall scarcely do more than reach Sewell's, at the foot of the first hills.

The day is gloomy and cold; the road is a water-channel; sometimes the horse steps upon hard ground, at others he is 577 269 floundering in a mud-hole. Thanks to Indian-rubber, I am tolerably well fortified--condemned, however, to a foot-pace.

About half-way to Sewell's, I overtook two waggons "mired down"--Anglice`, stuck in the mud. Travellers here always assist brothers in distress; so both myself and a companion riding with me, got off our horses, hitched them on behind the waggon with those forming the teams, and dragged each waggon out stern foremost. We then made as good a "corduroy" road as we could out of the sticks and branches lying about, and putting the whole strength on, successfully accomplished the passage of the mud-hole; and we then parted to proceed upon our respective journeys.

578 270

At Sewell's, found P--k--d, who is staying there during the flood, and distinguishing himself in the destruction of the various kind of wild fowl which visit these parts in the winter. The teal, and a small duck found here, are excellent; but a species of bird, called here the "sand-hill crane," is superlatively delicious; the meat of this bird throughout is brown, about the colour of the hare-meat when dressed, and, I believe, the flesh is naturally tender, for I never yet tasted any that was otherwise, whether the bird had been a long or short time killed.

It is not difficult to live on these plains in the winter, if you can stand walking up to the ancles, and, by way of variety, sometimes up to the waist, in water. I 579 271 have known often a dozen and a half of various kinds of ducks brought in during an afternoon; those which the bag cannot contain, being hung to a belt round the waist of the sportsman, who then seems to have originated for himself a featherkilt. These birds should, on such occasions, never be hung to the belt by the head, for the neck is so easily separated, that the twine will divide the vertebræ, and thus the body will fall away unobserved, leaving only the head upon the belt.

Sewell gave me up his own bed-room very kindly; everything very comfortable, and, for the first time in a Californian hotel, or ranche, I was offered hot water and a foot-tub, which is a great advance towards the bath; of course, it 580 272 would have been gladly accepted after a journey in any weather, but was more especially enjoyable after having rode about seventeen miles in rain, and through mud. P--d joined me for a couple of hours before bed-time, and we had an unmolested English talk over the usual accompaniments of the evening fireplace.

After a good night's rest, I was quite ready to proceed on to the works of the Company, at Dicksburgh, excepting that my unhappy ancle was dreadfully stiff from riding yesterday: however, at nine o'clock I got on horseback, and on I went; the mountain-road in very fair condition, excepting here and there some mud-holes offer unpleasing obstacles to travelling.

581 273

At a small ranche about fourteen miles from Sewell's, I turned off the main road to go to Hansonville, a small mining town on the road to the works at Dicksburgh. I had to cross the stream called the Honcut; it is always a rapid stream in the winter, but after the rains that had already fallen, it was now furiously raging on over its wooded and rocky bed. Neither the horse nor myself liked the aspect of the stream apparently, for I gave the animal's side but a faint touch with the spur, to which but a corresponding effort replied. If we entered, it was a question whether the horse could stand up against the rushing waters, and there was not depth for it to swim. If we did not, I should have to retrace my steps, make a long detour, and infallibly arrive at the 582 274 residence of my hospitable friends, the McD--g--ls, too late for the Christmas dinner, to which they had invited me; the probable alternatives were of the losing order, neither pleasing nor promising.

Happily for me, as I sat on the horse ruminating on the choice of evils before me, a miner came down for a bucket of water. I appealed to him for advice.

"Wall, stranger," he began, "I guess the crossing ain't sorter good; there's holes all about where they been digging; if you finds one, you can stay there--that's a fact!" And he dipped his bucket in the srream, feeling that he had given me all the necessary information with reference to the crossing.

I was not, however, disposed to lose the Christmas dinner; and having noticed 583 275 where the tracks of the waggon wheels entered and left the stream on the side, I resolutely applied the spur; a material disagreement of opinion between the horse and myself was evinced, but mine assumed the ascendancy, and in went the horse, seeming to say, "Have your own way then." After floundering "considerable," and having fortunately escaped the excavations of the miners, I found myself safely conveyed to the other side of the stream, my mining counsel assuring me that "he kinder reckoned" I should go down stream.

Through a rich mining locality, the road passed onwards to "Jackass Flat," where were united in one pursuit not less than seven hundred men from every known nation almost; the Chinese here 584 276 predominated, for independently of digging on their own account, many had hired themselves out to dig for others; an earthquake could scarcely have broken up the face of the "flat" more effectually than had the pick and shovel of the miner.

The road itself was not respected--on the contrary, it was interrupted by pits five or six feet deep, and was turned as best suited the miner. At length I extricated myself from this labyrinth, and in a heavy storm of wind and sleet, I presented myself, wet, hungry, and lame, before the door of my friends in Hansonville.

In an instant my prospects were infinitely changed for the better; my valise was taken off the horse, and the animal shown into a very comfortable stable. On my part I was established in a very 585 277 comfortable room, wherein a stove was immediately lighted, hot water supplied, and then left to change my dripping clothes, and render myself comfortable. This was soon done, with the exception of the sprained ancle, which was even less accommodating than when I mounted the horse in the morning.

I found my warm-hearted friends in high health, and full of kindness to me, and I was informed that the dinner would in half an hour be on the table, in which interval I looked round the room; of which and its appurtenances I give a short account, to show when we have, as my friends had, a contented and a methodical mind, how soon a hopeless "shanty" may be turned into a comfortable dwelling-place.

586 278

Hansonville, like all the mining villages is a mere collection of wood houses, run up to last as long as the riches of the district may attract a population about it.

In one of these houses was an Englishman, Dr. W--th--n, accompanied by his wife and their little daughter, just entering her thirteenth year. The Doctor had more house-room and less income than was necessary or agreeable; the arrival therefore of the McD--g--ls was a happy event for him, to whom, after a very little negociation, he had let half his house, agreeing to put up a canvas partition, as well as open another door, on his part; McD--g--l, on his, agreeing to take the said portion so divided off for six months, at a rent per month that in England would 587 279 have commanded a decent cottage for the whole year; to such an extent had the influx of people to the mountain regions elevated the value of such property.

There was a room, perhaps twenty feet square; off this were two smaller apartments used as bed-rooms, and in an appropriate corner, a curtain concealed wood, and sundry other things wanted through the day, and best placed when very near, supposing that we combine master and servant in our own persons, the position in which, at this period, all those gentlemen conducting the works of the English gold mining companies found themselves in California.

The first-mentioned room performed the duties of dining, drawing-room, and 588 280 library; the furniture displayed a ready conception in conversion; for instance, a barrel was advanced to the rank of an arm chair, a claret-box to that of a foot-stool, and a larger packing-case claimed the honours of an ottoman; all these were neatly covered with printed calico, and gave the apartment an appearance of great comfort, when united to the furniture which had undergone no transformation. A stove warmed this part of the house, which also derived farther heat from another which blazed in the Doctor's department; it was true that the conversation of each family became, as it were, common property, although, of course, neither ever interfered with the other.

589 281

As for the cuisine, that was established under the charge of an English woman who kept a boarding house close by; she was assisted by her husband, who kept the wild miners in order while she prepared their meals.

The dinner hour arrived; everything was as usual on dinner tables when the "fixing" is but a temporary matter; I observed soup plates, but could discern no soup tureen.

We sat down together with M--e and Mr. D--s, the former having very considerately brought a haunch of venison from the Keystone, a neighbouring town in embryo.

Mrs. McD--g--l asked me if I would take soup; I feared to say yes, though I did pronounce the word, 590 282 wondering from whence it would come: from this state I was relieved by Mrs. McD--g--l, who taking my soup plate, held it under a tin vessel generally termed a "black jack," and used to hold beer; from this, I found that that article had been promoted to the position of a tureen in the culinary service. The soup was nevertheless a very exemplary compound, and not less enjoyable, after having myself, come off a cold, wet, long ride in the mountains.

The dinner and cheerfulness of my good friends made me soon forget the storm which still raged, and the heavy rain, sometimes hail, which pelted against the sides of the wooden house.

Every thing was pleasing, and it being Christmas day we warmly drank to those 591 283 of whom we cherished a fond memory in England, and to one English family in San Francisco, for whose kindness I was at least very thankful during the time that an accident had confined me, and from which I still was very lame.

On the twenty-sixth I rode over to see the works at Dicksburgh. We have a small water mill, to which are fitted eight stumps. Mr. D--s, to whom the directors have confided the choice of quartz lodes, declares the quartz lodes will pay one and a half cents to the pound; if so, we shall realize thirty dollars to the ton. I doubt his judgment very 592 284 much in these matters; however, he is made the judge, and we shall see. Thirty dollars per ton would pay largely, especially with a water mill.

Returned in the evening to Hansonville, having left orders respecting the work to be done.

It has rained heavily since the twenty-sixth; but now, the noon of the thirtieth, a bright blue sky has succeeded to the heavy clouds which have so long poured their waters upon the country. The Honcut, which runs by Hansonville, has increased to the size of a river, and has greatly damaged two water mills here, 593 285 erected to crush quartz; one thousand dollars will not restore either to a working state.

Rode with McD--g--l to see the quartz lode he was testing. I do not think it very promising, though his mining agent thinks the reverse.

The last day of the year seemed to be weeping its total demise--incessant heavy rain; nothing to do but to send off letters for England, play chess, and read. The meals are a relief at such times; the day necessarily passed heavily enough, and very unlike the last day of the year at home, when the new year is often danced in, as the old one is gaily danced out.

A party of McD--g--l's Cornish miners are keeping it up now at midnight nearly--one fine specimen of a miner is 594286declaring that he "is a practical miner, and cares for no one:" the pronunciation of the word practical was altogether found by the worthy miner very impracticable.

THE END.