Linguistic evidence indicates that Turkish, Arab, and
other Muslim traders played an important role in dissemination
of maize in the Middle East and South Asia. Common vernacular
names for maize in the Near East, such as surratul-makkah in Arabic and gaudume-makka in Persian, are variations
of "grain of Mecca" (64), indicating an association
with the Muslim holy city of Mecca on the east coast
of the Red sea in present-day Saudi Arabia. Yearly pilgrimages
to the shrine of the Kaaba at Mecca and to the nearby
holy city of Medina have facilitated trade and cultural
exchange throughout the Muslim world for more than a
thousand years.
Grain of Mecca
Muslim historians and the few European travellers
in the Middle East region during the 16th and 17th centuries
wrote rarely about agriculture and left few accounts
of introduced American crop plants other than tobacco,
which spread rapidly in the Muslim world (65). The journals
of John Fryer, Father Barthelemy Carre and other Europeans
who traveled in the Middle East from 1635 to 1680 record
widespread tobacco smoking and tobacco gardens in present-day
Syria, Iraq, and Iran (66).
Early Maize in Oman
In 1507, Portuguese ships under Afonso de Alboquerque sailed
from the west coast of Africa to the Arabian penninsula for
exploration and the establishment of trading operations. In
1557, his illegitmate son, also named Afonso de Alboquerque,
compiled a text of his father's dispatches to the king of
Portugal. On the coast of Oman near the entrance to the Persian
Gulf, Alboquerque described Muscate, Sohar, and nearby cities as
"supplied from the interior with much wheat, maize, barley, and
dates, for lading as many vessels as come for them" and "Great
quantities of dates and maize are exported hence" (67).
Rauwolf Finds Maize in Iraq
The records and herbarium
of Bavarian botanist Leohard Rauwolf document the presence
of maize in Iraq in 1574. From 1573 to 1575, Rauwolf
traveled along the trade routes from Tripoli to Aleppo
in Syria and along the Euphrates and Tigris River routes
to Bagdad in Iraq. In fields near Jerusaleum, Aleppo,
and near the Euphrates River, Rauwolf observed "Indian
millet [maize].six, seven or eight cubits high" (68).
Rauwolf collected specimens for his herbarium at the
University of Leyden in Germany and in 1755, botanist
Johann Friedrich Gronovious used the new binomial system
of Linnaeus to classify plants from the Rauwolf herbarium
(69). Gronovious identified as Zea mays a sample that
Rauwolf had collected at Bir in Iraq in 1574 and had
labeled as Turkisches Korn(70). In his travels in Iran
and Pakistan in the 1890s, British counsel Percy Sykes
noted that maize was an important summer crop in the
Kerman region and that maize stalks were a source of
fodder for horses in the Baluchistan desert along the
coast of the Arabian Sea (71).
Maize was cultivated in South Asia by the mid-1600s,
but the dates and circumstances of the first introductions
of maize into Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan,
and Sri Lanka are not known. The few available sources
of information include genealogical histories and natural
histories written by South Asians, and the accounts
of the rare European travellers who made observations
of South Asian agriculture. Although Europeans are likely
to have played a role in early introductions of maize
into South Asia, the Spanish name mahiz and the Portuguese
name milho do not appear to have survived as names for
Zea mays in any of the South Asian languages. In contrast,
linguistic evidence strongly supports a role for Arabs
and other Muslim traders in introducing maize into South
Asia. The majority of vernacular names for maize throughout
South Asia from the 1600s to the present day are variations
of makka, grain of Mecca. Examples include makka and
mukka in Hindi and Rajasthani; makai in Bengali, Punjabi,
Gujarati and Nepali; makaibonda in Maharastra; mukka-cholam in Tamil; mokka-jonnalu in Telugu, etc. (72). In ethnological
studies conducted in the 1840s and 1850s, Brian Hodgson
(73) found makai to be the name for maize among 16 of
23 languages or dialects of aboriginal tribes in the
remote hill regions of eastern Nepal and northeastern
India.
Few documents of 16th and 17th century Portuguese
history in India have survived, and fewer still deal
with agriculture and other domestic issues. Asian historian
Charles Boxer wrote that "the amount of relevant material
to be found in the Portuguese archives is disappointingly
small, most of the contemporary documents and reports
having perished in the great fire which destroyed the
building in which they were housed, the Casa da India,
after the disastrous Lisbon earthquake of 1755; whilst
the white ant has been responsible for the destruction
of many old documents in the Goa archives" (74). European
and Indian accounts relate that in 1498, 1500 and 1502
Portuguese ships under Vasco da Gama and Pedro Alvares
Cabral crossed the Arabian Sea from Africa and reached
the Malabar coast of southern India. The Portuguese
seized Arab trading ships, looted their cargoes of Malabar
black pepper and other spices, killed most of their
crews, and returned with the spices to Europe. The 16th
century Portuguese soldier Duarte Pacheco wrote "with
these [his fleets] he [king Manuel of Portugal] has
conquered and daily conquers, the Indian seas and the
shores of Asia, destroying and burning the Moors of
Cairo, of Arabia and of Mecca, and other inhabitants
of the same India, together with their fleet, by which
for over 800 years they have controlled their trade
in precious stones, pearls and spices" (75).
Gardens of Goa
In their efforts to control the supply of spices to
Europe and to control and tax inter-Asian shipping trade,
the Portuguese established strategic bases for their
naval fleets and trading operations along the western
coast of India. In 1510 Afonso de Albuquerque captured
the island of Goa from the Sultan of Bijapur, and there
established the capital of the Estado da India. By 1524
Goa had become a thriving trading settlement of 450
Portuguese householders, where Portuguese men were encouraged
to marry Indian women who converted to Christianity
(76). Dutch traveller John Huyghen Van Linschoten described
Goa in the 1580s as "well builte with [faire] houses
and streetes, after the Portingall manner, but because
of the heat they are somewhat lower. They commonly have
their gardens and orchards at the backe side of their
houses, full of all kinde of Indian fruites " (77). English
merchant Ralph Fitch also described Goa in the 1580s
as "a fine citie, and for an Indian town very faire.
The iland is very faire, full of orchards and gardens,
and many palmer trees, and hath some villages" (78).
It is likely that these gardens and orchards of the
Portuguese settlements at Goa and elsewhere on the western
coast of India were points of introduction of maize
and other American food plants during the 16th and 17th
centuries.
Portugeuse Estado Da India
While they were establishing the Estado da India on
the western coast of India under the control of the
Viceroy at Goa, the Portuguese began to migrate eastward
along the coast of the Bay of Bengal. In 1536 the Hindu
king of Bengal allowed the Portuguese to establish trading
stations at Satgaon (Porto Pequeno) and Chittagong (Porto
Grande) at the north end of the Bay. In 1579 the Portuguese
established a settlement at Hugli, at the mouth of the
Ganges River, and gradually extended minor settlements
north to Dacca in present-day Bangladesh. Many European
travellers of the 16th century were highly critical
of the Portuguese in Bengal, describing them as having
" no fortes, nor any government, nor policie as in India,
but live in a manner like wild men, and untamed horses,
for that every man doth there what hee will, and every
man is lord [and maister], neyther esteeme they any
thing of justice, whether there be any or none " (79).
European travellers' estimates of the size of the Portuguese
population at Hugli in the 1600s vary widely. The best
contemporary authority may be Miguel de Noronha, Viceroy
of Goa, who reported "no more than 200 Portuguese, and
with their Christian slaves would in all make up 800"
as the population of Hugli in 1632 (80).
During the 17th century the Portuguese Estado da India declined under increasing attack from the expanding
Mughal Empire of northern India, and from the Dutch
and English East India Companies. In 1632 Qasim Khan,
governor of Bengal in the expanding Mughal Empire, attacked
and destroyed the Portuguese settlement of Hugli, which
thereafter never recovered its early importance. The
Dutch took over the most of the Portuguese trade in
spices and most of their inter-Asian trade. By 1620
the English East India Company had established settlements
in India along both the western and eastern coasts,
and inland settlements in cities of the Mughal Empire
in northwest India. Calcutta was founded in 1690 at
the mouth of the Ganges and became the capital of the
British Raj that dominated South Asia into the 20th
century (81).
Muslim Trade in Asia
The greater number and accessibility of European archives
encourage an unbalanced view of the relative importance
of Europeans in Asian trade in the Middle Ages. The
unique account of the Moroccan Ibn Battuta, who traveled
extensively in North Africa and Asia from 1325 to 1354,
reveals that Muslims from Arabia (now Saudi Arabia)
and Persia (now Iran) controlled the maritime trade
between India, the Middle East, and Europe, and also
played a large role in the maritime trade with China
(82). Modern historians have concluded that European
trade remained a minor component of South Asian maritime
and overland trade during the 16th and 17th centuries
of the Estado da India. For example, Muslim traders
from the Indian State of Gujarat were major competitors
with the Portuguese for the spice trade in the Indian
Ocean (83). In fact, the typical journey of an Italian
merchant to India in 1500 was quite similar to that
of Marco Polo 300 years earlier. From Alexandria or
Damascus on the Mediterranean Sea traders crossed to
the Arabian Sea by overland caravan or through the Red
Sea or Persian Gulf. At ports such as Aden on the Red
Sea or Hormuz on the Persian Gulf, goods were transferred
to a larger ship to cross the Arabian Sea to the western
coast of India, thence to the Indian Ocean and lands
to the east (84). Marco Polo wrote "Aden is the port
to which many of the ships of India come with their
cargoes; and from this haven the merchants carry the
goods a distance of seven days further in small vessels.
At the end of those seven days they land the goods and
load them on camels, and so carry them a land journey
of 30 days. This brings them to the river of Alexandria,
and by it they descend to the latter city. It is by
this way through Aden that the Saracens of Alexandria
receive all their stores of pepper and other spicery;
and there is no other route equally good and convenient
by which these goods could reach that place" (85). As
noted above, the holy cities of Mecca and Medina on
the Red Sea coast of Saudi Arabia were a center of pilgrimage
and trade for Muslims throughout North Africa and Asia.
Travels of Marco Polo
When the Portuguese arrived in1500, South Asia was
a patchwork of independent kingdoms, largely Islamic
in the north and Hindu in the south. The Muslim Sultans
of Delhi controlled most of the fertile valleys of the
Indus and Ganges Rivers, from present- day northern
Pakistan southeast to Bangladesh. In 1526 Zehir-ud-din
Muhammad Babur, the Muslim king of Ferghana in present-day
Uzbekistan, conquered northern India and founded the
Mughal Empire, which eventually controlled Afghanistan,
Pakistan, and India south to the 20th parallel. During
the 17th century the Mughal capital at Agra became a
great center of trade, by caravan and by barge transport
on the Ganges River. The Mughal Emperors were passionate
gardeners and played a major role in documentation of
agriculture and in introduction of new plants into India.
In 1530 Babur wrote the Babur-nama, the first book
on the natural history of India. Babur's extensive records
of flowers, and of fruits and other agricultural plants
that he saw in India include no mention of any introduced
American plants (86). In 1595 court historian Abu-l-Fazl
published the Ain-I-Akbari, a detailed agricultural
survey of the provinces of the Mughal Empire. The Ain described ananas (pineapple) as a fruit that came from
Portuguese ports and was served at the table of Akbar.
The fact that the Brazilian name of the fruit, ananas,
was widely adopted in South Asia has facilitated tracing
its introduction (87). However, the only possible mention
of maize in the Ain has been refuted by Habib. In his
1893 Dictionary of the Economic Products of India George
Watt wrote that in the English translation of the Ain a flower called kewrah was described as having leaves
like maize (88). Later authors have cited Watt's note
as proof of the existence of maize in India in the 1500s.
Habib, however, notes that this is a mistranslation
of the original text, which reads juwari, which is likely
to mean sorghum rather than maize (89).
Early Maize in South Asia
In his study of manuscript collections and other 17th
century sources from western India, historian Parashuram
Krishna Gode (90) discovered references to makka or
maize. Maize was mentioned as tasteful, strength-giving,
and dear to children in a text found in several medical
and botanical works published near present-day Mumbai
before 1620 and between 1640 and 1700. Maize also was
reported in the Deccan region of western India in lists
of food taxes between 1630 and1680 and in a 1707 historical
report of the cutting and looting of maize and other
crops from farmers' fields. Far to the north in the
Kathmandu valley of Nepal, a Vamsavali or genealogical
history of the Buddhist Malla rajas recorded the introduction
of maize during the reign of Jagatjyotir Malla from
1615 to 1627. "In this reign some Indian corn [maize]
was by chance brought from the east, mixed up among
a quantity of mas or urd-dal [a kind of pulse]. The
clever people of the country were immediately assembled,
and decided that this new grain would cause a famine,
so it was thought best to send it back whence it had
come; and to destroy all the ill luck it might have
left behind, Brahmans were fed and the gods worshipped" (91).
American Crop Plants in India
Few European travellers to India during the 16th century
reported American crop plants. Three Portuguese travellers
to southern India, Domingo Paes in 1520, Fernao Nuniz
in 1535, and Garcia da Orta in 1563, described fruits,
grains, and other crops, but did not mention any American
plants (92). In 1578 the Portuguese botanist Christophoras
Acosta reported pineapple in western India (93). In
the 1580s, Van Linschoten reported that pineapple was
found on the west coast and "was first brought by the
Portingalles out of Brasille, so that at the first it
was sold for a noveltie...but now there are so many growen
in the countrey, that they are very good cheape." Van
Linschoten also reported other American food plants-
papaya (Carica papaya), cashew (Anacardium occidentale),
and sweet potato- on the western coast of India (94).
A manuscript written by Father Antonio Monserrate, which
was discovered in a Calcutta church library in 1906,
contains a report of maize in northwest India in 1581.
In 1580, Monserrate left his post at Goa to join the
first Jesuit mission to the court of Akbar at Agra.
During Akbar's campaign against Mirza Hakim in 1581,
Monserrate traveled with the Mughal army north and west
of Agra into the hill regions of Kangra, Kashmir, Swat,
and Kabul. He reported that provisions procured locally
for the army included "grain, maize, pulse, and all
manner of provisions and other merchandise" (95).
Throughout the 17th century, European travellers reported
American crop plants in India. In western India, from
the Malabar coast and Goa north and inland to Agra,
reports include those of Methwold (1615-1622), Terry
(1616-1619), De La Valle (1623-1626), Mundy (1628-1634),
Tavernier (1631-1661), Fryer (1672-1681), Hamilton (1688+),
and Carre (1672-1674). In eastern India, from Sri Lanka
north along the Coromandel coast to Bengal, reports
include those of Methwold (1615-1622), Manrique (1629-1643),
Bernier (1656-1668), Bowry (1669-1674), and Baldeus
(1672) (96). Pineapple and tobacco were mentioned most
frequently, but papaya, cashew, sweet potato, guava
(Psidium guajava), and chili pepper (Capsicum annuum) also were reported. Although none of these travellers
mention maize, an intriguing illustration reproduced
from the original 1672 text of the Dutchman Philip Baldeus
shows natives of Jaffna in northern Sri Lanka presenting
various fruits and vegetables, including a clearly distinguishable
ear of maize, to a group of Dutch soldiers (97).
From 1602, missionary priests of the Jesuit and Capuchin
orders traversed the Himalayan range in Bhutan, Nepal
or Ladakh (now the State of Kashmir) to travel between
India and Tibet, and from 1715 to 1769 a mainly Capuchin
mission was established in Kathmandu in Nepal. Unfortunately,
the priests left few accounts of agriculture in these
regions and rare records of American crop plants. Early
in the 18th century, Father Ippolito Desideri reported
pineapples in Kathmandu and a Father Loro reported maize
(98).
As the British East India Company extended its influence
in South Asia, the Panchen Lama of Tibet requested a
visit by a Company representative. In 1774, Governor-General
Warren Hastings responded by sending George Bogle to
discuss issues of trade and diplomatic relations between
British India and Tibet. Bogle traveled north from Calcutta
through the present-day State of West Bengal, Bangladesh,
the State of Assam, and Bhutan to Tashilungpo in Tibet.
Bogle introduced potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) and other
plants and reported on geography, agriculture, and other
subjects of interest to the British government. Of the
villages in Bhutan, he wrote "The prospect within the
hills is confined -not above 25 miles; country all equally
clad with wood. There were not above six or eight villages
to be seen on the brow of the mountain, with little
patches of wheat, barley, or Indian corn" (99). After
Bogle's untimely death at the age of 35 in Calcutta,
Governor-General Hastings choose Samuel Turner for a
second British mission to Tibet in 1783. In Assam and
Bhutan, Turner reported pineapples growing wild in the
forests, tobacco, and chili pepper. In Bhutan he found
remnants of the potatoes that Bogle had planted 10 years
earlier (100). On his political mission to Bhutan in 1837, William Griffiths reported that maize was grown as a cereal crop and maize ears were fed to horses (101).
Kirkpatrick on Maise in Nepal
During the first British mission to Nepal from February
to April of 1793, Colonel Kirkpatrick described the
grain crops grown on unirrigated hillsides in the Kathmandu
valley. He wrote that "the principle are Muckhye [Indian
corn], Kodo Murrova (Eleusine sp.), some species of
Ghya [a dry coarse rice], and Toori (Brassica sp.).These
articles are chiefly consumed by the husbandmen themselves,
and others among the lower classes of people" (102).
Buchanan's Travels in India
and Nepal
Under the direction of Governor General Wellesley,
Scotsman Francis Buchanan (later Hamilton) undertook
extensive botanical, ethnological, and general surveys
during his two decades (1794-1815) in India. Buchanan
traveled from 1800 to 1801 through regions of southern
India (now the States of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka)
that the British had annexed in 1799 and through adjoining
regions. He reported commercial production of tobacco
and chili pepper, and cultivation of sweet potatoes
and maize throughout the region. Buchanan described
a tribe called the Soligaru who lived in the remote
mountains west of Mysore, collecting honey and wild
yams from the forest, and using shifting cultivation
to prepare plots that they " broadcast with Ragy (Eleusine
coracana), here and there dropping in a seed of Avarat
(Dolichos lablab), Tovary (Cajanas cajan), mustard,
maize, and pumpkin" (103). Near the city of Bangalore
Buchanan found that "The maize thrives better than at
Silgutta, growing seven or eight feet high, and producing
four or five heads. The gardeners, however, remove all
except one; and allege, that the plant is not able to
bring more to perfection. The same prejudice against
the grain prevails here as elsewhere in this country.
When I asked if they ever made it into flour, my question
was considered as a joke, or perhaps as an absurdity,
at which the people could not help laughing" (104). After
his travels in southern India, Buchanan joined the British
mission to Kathmandu from 1802 to 1803, and spent an
additional two years on the Nepal frontier. Buchanan
reported that maize was an important crop in the Jumla
district of western Nepal and in the Kathmandu valley,
just as Kirkpatrick had observed ten years earlier (105).
Farther to the northwest in Kangra (now Himachal Pradesh),
Kirkpatrick noted "although most parts of the country
are high, the ascents from the plains below are easy,
and the summits of the hills are level, so that a large
proportion is fit for cultivation, and is well occupied.
The poor live much on maize" (106). During the winter
of 1811-1812, Buchanan surveyed the state of Bihar in
northeast India, and found "the chief crops seem to
be Maize, Orohor (Cajanus cajan), Til (Sesamum), and
Cotton" (107). In Bengal in 1794, Henry Colebrooke noted that maize "is the most general produce of poor soils in hilly countries, and is also very generally cultivated in the western provinces." (108).
While he was with the British mission in Kathmandu
from 1820 to 1842, and later in the city of Darjeeling
just east of the Nepal border, Brian Houghton Hodgson
studied ethnography and natural history of the Himalayan
region. In Kathmandu, Hodgson noted a "preference for
rices, maizes, sorghums, panicums or millets, buckwheat,
and amaranth, on the part of the people" (109). During
his ethnological studies of the Kiranti tribes of the
remote hill regions of eastern Nepal and the Bodo and
Dhimal tribes of northeastern India, Hodgson noted the
use of shifting cultivation to prepare plots of chili
peppers, maize, millets, and rice. Hodgson wrote that,
compared to rice, "maize and even millet seem to contribute
as much to the quantity of home-reared food" (110). In
Darjeeling in 1848, Hodgson assisted botanist Joseph
Hooker in preparing for his exploration of the Himalayas.
In east Nepal Hooker observed "villages which are merely
scattered collections of huts, are surrounded with fields
of rice, buckwheat, and indian corn, which latter the
natives were now storing in little granaries, mounted
on four posts" (111).
Hooker Eats Popcorn in Bhutan
In central Sikkim, Hooker described "scanty crops of
millet, maize and buckwheat" and houses hung with "cornucopias
of indian corn" (112). In Lachen valley on the Tibet
border, Hooker wrote a charming description of what
appears to have been his first taste of popcorn "prepared
by roasting the maize in an iron vessel, when it splits
and turns partly inside out, exposing a snow white spongy
mass of farina. It looks very handsome, and would make
a beautiful dish for desert" (113). Hooker also reported
maize in the mountains of the present-day State of Meghalaya
just north of Bangladesh (114).
Maize in Thailand and Burma
To the east, and envoy from the king of France to Siam (present-day Thailand) in 1687-1688 reported that maize (bled de Turquie) was grown by the Siamese but only as a garden vegetable for home use. The whole ears were boiled or grilled without detaching the grains (115). In nearby Burma from 1783-1808, the Italian Vincentius Sangermano was missionary to descendants of the Portugeuse who had colonized Burma in the 16th century. In his studies of Burmese natural history, Sangermano reported that "Besides wheat, this empire is very fertile in maize, panicum, and a species of grain called piaun which is similar to the indian millet..." and also noted the cultivation of other American crop plants like chili pepper, cassava, guava, pineapple, and tobacco (116).
Moorcroft on Maize in Afghanistan
British exploration of northwestern India, Pakistan,
and Afghanistan was restricted until the mid-19th century
because these areas were not under British control or
influence. From 1819 to 1825 British agents William
Moorcroft and George Trebeck traveled throughout the
western Himalayan regions of India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan
to Bokhara in Uzbekistan in search of horse breeding
stock and evidence of Russian influence. Moorcroft reported
crops of maize in the State of Kashmir and in Pakistan,
and just west of Kabul in Afghanistan he recorded "Indian
corn is cultivated, and although it seldom exceeds three
feet in height, yields a return of forty or sixty for
one" (117). Following Moorcroft into the western Himalayas
were other British travellers who reported maize, including
Andrew Adams in Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh in 1849
(118) and A. D. Frederickson in Punjab (119).
Maize as the Food of Hill Tribes
of South Asia
Contradictory statements appear in the 19th century
botanical literature of British India on the prevalence
of maize in South Asia. In his description of Indian
plants, Flora Indica, published in 1832, William Roxburgh,
director of the Botanical Garden at Calcutta, wrote
that maize was "cultivated in various parts of India
in gardens, and only as a delicacy; but not anywhere
on the continent of India as far as I can learn, as
an extensive crop" (120). In contrast, in 1868, B. H. Powell wrote that, in the hills of the Punjab region of northwest India, maize "is the favorite crop of the people, and for six months of the year forms their common staple of food" (121). In his 1893 Dictionary of the
Economic Products of India, however, George Watt cited
"the extremely local character of the information often
supplied by Indian writers" and concluded "It is thus
very probable that in Upper India [a region, comparatively
speaking, unknown to Roxburgh] maize was much more extensively
grown at the beginning of the century than might be
inferred from Roxburgh's words". Watt stated further
that maize "is a field crop upon which at least the
bulk of the aboriginal tribes of the hilly tracts of
India are very largely dependent for subsistence. Thus
its diffusion over India, during the present century,
might almost be said to be one of the most powerful
arguments against the statement often made that the
Natives of India are so very conservative that they
can scarcely be induced to change their time-honoured
customs" (122).