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Contents Entries by Alphabetical Order . . . . . . . x Entries by Topic Category . . . . . . . . . . xi Advisory Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . xii Contributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii Reader's Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv Timeline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvi Words to Know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Volume 1: The Ancient World Chapter One: Prehistory Prehistoric Life Prehistory Clothing Prehistory Headwear Prehistory Body Decorations Prehistory Footwear Chapter Two: Ancient Egypt Egypt Introduction Egypt Clothing Kalasiris Loincloth and Loin Skirt Penis Sheath Schenti Tunic Egypt Headwear Headdresses Pschent Wigs Egypt Body Decorations Collars and Pectorals Fragrant Oils and Ointments Jewelry Kohl Egypt Footwear Sandals Chapter Three: Mesopotamia Mesopotamia Introduction Mesopotamian Clothing Fringe Shawl Mesopotamian Headwear Turbans Veil Mesopotamian Body Decorations Mesopotamian Footwear Sandals Chapter Four: Ancient India Ancient India Indian Clothing Burkas Chadar Choli Dhoti and Lungi Jama Punjabi Suit Purdah Sari Uttariya Indian Headwear Turbans Indian Body Decorations Foot Decorating Forehead Markings Henna Stains Jewelry Piercing Indian Footwear Chappals Jutti Khapusa Paduka Chapter Five: Ancient Greece Greek Introduction Greek Clothing Chlaina and Diplax Chlamys Doric Chiton Himation Ionic Chiton Loin Coverings Military Dress Minoan Dress Peplos Greek Headwear Phrygian Cap Pilos and Petasos Sakkos and Sphendone Wreaths Greek Body Decorations Cameo and Intaglio Fibulae Jewelry Makeup Metal Girdles Perfume Greek Footwear Boots Sandals Chapter Five: Ancient Rome Roman Introduction Roman Clothing Braccae Casula Dalmatica Etruscan Dress Feminalia Palla Stola Subligaculum Toga Tunica Roman Headwear Beards Braids and Curls Hair Coloring Wigs Roman Body Decorations Bulla Jewelry Makeup Signet Ring Roman Footwear Calceus Cothurnus Crepida Gallicae Solea Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Volume 2: Early Cultures Across the Globe Chapter One: Early Asian Cultures Early Asian Introduction Early Asian Clothing Cheongsam Dragon Robes Hakama Haori Ho Kataginu Kinu Kosode Mandarin Shirt Obi Early Asian Headwear Early Asian Body Decorations Fans Kabuki Makeup Early Asian Footwear Foot Binding and Lotus Shoes Geta Tabi Zori Chapter Two: Byzantine Empire Byzantine Introduction Byzantine Clothing Dalmatica Paludamentum Stola Byzantine Headwear Turban Byzantine Body Decorations Embroidery Byzantine Footwear Chapter Three: Nomads and Barbarians Nomads and Barbarians Introduction Clothing of the Nomads and Barbarians Headwear of the Nomads and Barbarians Body Decorations of the Nomads and Barbarians Footwear of the Nomads and Barbarians Chapter Four: Europe in the Middle Ages Middle Ages Introduction Clothing of the Middle Ages Bliaut Cote and Cotehardie Garnaches and Gardcorps Hose and Breeches Houppelande Leg Bands Mantle Pourpoint Tabard Headwear of the Middle Ages Beret Bowlcropped Coif Hood Ram's Horn Headdress Steeple Headdress Wimple Body Decorations of the Middle Ages Gloves Purses Footwear of the Middle Ages Crackowes and Poulaines Chapter Five: Discovered Peoples Discovered Peoples Introduction Oceania Clothing in Oceania Headwear in Oceania Body Decorations in Oceania Body Painting Scarification Tattooing Footwear in Oceania Native Americans Native American Introduction Native American Clothing Blankets Breechclout Cloak Leggings Skirt Native American Headwear Bear Grease Braids Headdresses Mohawk Native American Body Decorations Jewelry Tattooing War Paint Native American Footwear Moccasins Mayans, Aztecs, and Incas Mayan, Aztec, and Inca Introduction Mayan, Aztec, and Inca Clothing Cloaks Loin Cloths Tunics Mayan, Aztec, and Inca Headwear Mayan, Aztec, and Inca Body Decorations Head Flattening Mayan, Aztec, and Inca Footwear Usuta African Cultures African Introduction African Clothing Agbada Animal Skins Asooke Cloth Bark Cloth Batik Cloth Berber Dress Boubou Cotton Kente Cloth Kuba Cloth Mud Cloth African Headwear Fez Headwraps Mud Hair Styling African Body Decorations Beadwork Body Painting Head Flattening Lip Plugs Masks Scarification Siyala African Footwear Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Volume 3: The Growth of European Culture: From the Renaissance to the Modern Era Chapter One: Fifteenth Century Introduction Fifteenth Century Clothing Overview Barbe Dagged Shirt Doublet and Courtepy Trains Fifteenth Century Headwear Overview Fifteenth Century Body Decorations Overview Fifteenth Century Footwear Overview Chapter Two: Sixteenth Century Introduction Sixteenth Century Clothing Overview Bases Black Silk Bombast Codpiece Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves Mandilion Medici Collar Pluderhose Pumpkin Breeches Ruffs Safeguard Spanish, French, and Roll Farthingale Venetians Sixteenth Century Headwear Overview Copotain Hat Dyes for Hair False Hair Palisadoe Sixteenth Century Body Decoration Overview Apron Cordoba Leather Gloves Fans Flea Fur Handkerchiefs Sixteenth Century Footwear Overview Chopines High-Heeled Shoes Pattens SIDEBAR: Hygiene Chapter Three: Seventeenth Century Introduction Seventeenth Century Clothing Overview Baldric Breeches Bustle Falling Bands Gowns Justacorps Petticoats Quatrefoil Spur Strap Stomacher and Eschelle Waistcoat Whisk and Golilla Seventeenth Century Headwear Overview Diadem Cap Fontage Hurly-Burly "Love Locks" Tricorne Hat Wigs (include powder) Seventeenth Century Body Decorations Overview Choker Necklace Cravats Earstring Fans Heavy Makeup Ivory-Topped Cane Masks Muff Parasol Seventeenth Century Footwear Overview Ice Skates Oxfords Shoe Roses Shoelaces Silver Buckles SIDEBAR: Fashion Magazines SIDEBAR: Sumptuary Laws SIDEBAR: What to Wear while Travelling Across the Ocean Chapter Four: Eighteenth Century Introduction Eighteenth Century Clothing Overview Casaquin Chinoiserie Coats (Cassock, Redingote, The Spencer) Corsets Ellipse Engageantes Jabot Knee Breeches Panniers Pantaloons Polonaise Style Robe a la francaise and a l'anglaise Robe en chemise Roquelaire Watteau Pleats Eighteenth Century Headwear Overview Dog Ears Poufs Ramillies and Pigtails Wigs Eighteenth Century Body Decorations Overview Cameos Double Watch Fobs Fashion a la victime Nosegays Parasols and Umbrellas Reticules Snuff Boxes Toe Rings and Ankle Bracelets Walking Sticks Eighteenth Century Footwear Overview Jockey Boots Slippers SIDEBAR: Lice, Hunger, and Hair SIDEBAR: Incroyables and Merveilleuses - Proto Beatniks Chapter Five: Nineteenth Century Introduction Nineteenth Century Clothing Overview Bathing Costumes The Betsy Bloomers Blue Jeans Coats (Garricks, Frock, Norfolk) Crinolines Dinner Jacket "Ditto" Suits "Gigot" Sleeves Indian Shawls Pelisses Tennis Costumes Nineteenth Century Headwear Overview Apollo Knot Bowler Deerstalker Cap Gainsborough Chapeau Mustaches Sideburns Spoon Bonnet Top Hat Wigs Nineteenth Century Body Decorations Overview Ascot Brooch Fobs and Seals Gloves Monocle Pocketbook Nineteenth Century Footwear Overview Boots Buttoned Shoes Oxfords Slippers Tennis Shoes SIDEBAR: Inventions: Sewing Machine, Dyes, Cotton Gin, Spinning Jenny SIDEBAR: American Cowboy SIDEBAR: The Dandy SIDEBAR: English Tailor: Charles Frederick Worth Industrializes Fashion SIDEBAR: Furs Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 1900 to 1945 Chapter One: 1900 to 1918 Introduction to 1900 to 1918 Clothing in 1900 to 1918 Belts Bloomers Brassiere Collars Driving Clothes Flatteners Hobble Skirts Hunting Outfit Jumper Gown Knickers Peg-Top Suit Plusfours Shirtwaist Trenchcoats Underwear Zippers Headwear in 1900 to 1918 Barber Shops Men's Hats Permanent Wave Women's Hats Body Decorations in 1900 to 1918 Beaded Handbag Lipstick Walking Stick Watches Footwear in 1900 to 1918 Converse All-Stars High-Laced Black Boots Oxfords Chapter Two: 1919 to 1929 Introduction to 1900 to 1918 Clothing in 1900 to 1918 Blue Blazers Formal Gown Hemlines Oxford Bags Pajamas Raccoon Coat Spectator Sports Style Sportswear Swimwear Tailored Suit for Women Headwear in 1900 to 1918 Bandeau Cloche Hats Derby Hats Fedoras Patent Leather Look for Men Short Hair for Women Body Decorations in 1900 to 1918 Chanel No. 5 Clean-Shaven Men Costume Jewelry Makeup Nail Polish Footwear in 1900 to 1918 High-Buttoned Shoes High-Heeled Shoes Spats Chapter Three: 1930 to 1945 Introduction to 1900 to 1918 Clothing in 1900 to 1918 Bikinis Dinner Suit for Women Dolman Sleeves Little Black Dress Men's Suits Military Uniforms Nylons Print Dress Sarongs Stockings Swim Trunks for Men Trousers for Women T-Shirt Utility Clothing Zoot Suit Headwear in 1900 to 1918 Forward Roll Middy Hairstyle Pomade Pompadour Shingle Body Decorations in 1900 to 1918 Charm Bracelets Clutch Purse Electric Shaver Mascara Footwear in 1900 to 1918 Military Boots Suede "Buc" T-Strap Sandal Wing Tips Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Volume 5: Modern World Part II: 1946 to Present Day Chapter One: 1946 to 1960 Introduction to 1946 to 1960 Clothing in 1946 to 1960 American Look Bold Look for Men Casual Look Furs Gray Flannel Suit Ivy League Look Matching Clothes Sets New Look Preppy Look Rock 'n' Roll Style Headwear in 1946 to 1960 Beehives and Bouffants Crew Cuts Hair Coloring Hair Spray Jelly Rolls and Ducktails Pillbox Hats Body Decorations in 1946 to 1960 Charm Bracelets Makeup Footwear in 1946 to 1960 Plastic Shoes Stiletto Heels Top-Siders Chapter Two: 1961 to 1979 Introduction to 1961 to 1979 Clothing in 1961 to 1979 A-Line Skirt Bellbottoms Cat Suits Corduroy Down Vests and Jackets Fringe Gaucho Pants Halter Tops Hip Huggers Hot Pants Jogging Suits Leisure Suits Miniskirt Nehru Jacket Painters Pants Pant Suit Pantyhose Peasant Look Tie-Dye Velour Wrap Dress Headwear in 1961 to 1979 Afro "Farrah Fawcett" Look The Flip Geometric Bob Styles Headwraps Long Hair for Men Body Decorations in 1961 to 1979 Body Piercing Leg Warmers Mood Rings Neckties Puka Tanning Footwear in 1961 to 1979 Birkenstocks Doc Martens Earth Shoes Go-Go Boots Moon Boots Patent Leather Shoes Platform Shoes Tennis Shoes Chapter Three: 1980 to Present Day Introduction to 1980 to Present Day Clothing in 1980 to Present Day Armani Suits Baggie Jeans Casual Fridays Designer Jeans Goth Style Grunge Lingerie Lycra/Spandex Polar Fleece Sweatshirts Thong Wonderbra Headwear in 1980 to Present Day Mullet "Rachel" Haircut Rogaine Body Decorations in 1980 to Present Day Backpack Purses Gucci Bags Sunless Tanning Lotion Tattooing Footwear in 1980 to Present Day Cowboy Boots Mary Janes Pumps Trainer Shoes Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii
Library of Congress Subject Headings for this publication: Costume History, Fashion History, Body marking History, Dress accessories History