I had been wanted to return to Jailhouse for the past few weeks, but
the weather gods had been uncooperative. After our last experience
there, which was best described as "climbers in the mist", we were
holding out for better weather. After waiting for three weeks, we
decided that holding out for great weather wasn't going to work,
and we would settle for decent. Superbowl sunday looked to fit the
bill, so at 7:30, Dan, Lynsey, Nadine and I headed out.
Amazingly enough, we actually had good weather all day, with no
fog and brief bits of sunshine too. Nadine and Lynsey went to the
right side of the wall to warm up on the 11c/d warmups, while Dan
and I went to the left side, and did the first 5 bolts of a 12c
to get the blood flowing. Dan then led Whipping Boy, which
I followed, with many hangs. After working on it last time, I had
been hoping to send this one, but my performance gave me much doubt.
We moved over to Misdemeanor, which Dan led to the last bolt before
the anchor before hanging. He made it look so easy, that I decided to
give it a go later in the day. We paused for lunch, and were joined
by Lynsey and Nadine who had a go a Whipping Boy. After lunch, Dan
went to work on Misdemeanor again, and tried to follow it. Despite
Dan's ease on it, it was bloody hard. I was going bolt to bolt for
much of the way. It'll be a while before I can even think of that
one.
We then returned to the left side of the crag, and Dan put up
Deputy Dawg. I had another go on Whipping Boy, trying to
dial in the footwork. Nadine and Lynsey went to work on the Deputy,
while I took a good rest, and then threw myself at Whipping Boy
again. This time, knowing I was near the end of my strength, I
concentrated on my footwork, and finally managed to send it on
TR. Next time I'm out there, I'll try to lead it, but I have to
say that the third clip kinda scares me.
We were all feeling exhausted by this time, so despite there still
being sunlight out to climb by, we headed back to the car. Nadine
was also keenly insterested in finding out the score of the big
game. We eventually managed to pick up a station from Salt Lake
City, only to find out that the Raiders were getting trounced. This
made us feel much better for having ventured outside instead of staying
in town doing 12 ounce curls. We stopped off in Riverbank for the
obligatory Mexican, and then caught the remaining minutes of the
game, which reinforced our happiness in making the right decision.
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