LBNL Homepage Jailhouse, Jan 26 2003 NERSC Homepage
I had been wanted to return to Jailhouse for the past few weeks, but the weather gods had been uncooperative. After our last experience there, which was best described as "climbers in the mist", we were holding out for better weather. After waiting for three weeks, we decided that holding out for great weather wasn't going to work, and we would settle for decent. Superbowl sunday looked to fit the bill, so at 7:30, Dan, Lynsey, Nadine and I headed out.

Amazingly enough, we actually had good weather all day, with no fog and brief bits of sunshine too. Nadine and Lynsey went to the right side of the wall to warm up on the 11c/d warmups, while Dan and I went to the left side, and did the first 5 bolts of a 12c to get the blood flowing. Dan then led Whipping Boy, which I followed, with many hangs. After working on it last time, I had been hoping to send this one, but my performance gave me much doubt. We moved over to Misdemeanor, which Dan led to the last bolt before the anchor before hanging. He made it look so easy, that I decided to give it a go later in the day. We paused for lunch, and were joined by Lynsey and Nadine who had a go a Whipping Boy. After lunch, Dan went to work on Misdemeanor again, and tried to follow it. Despite Dan's ease on it, it was bloody hard. I was going bolt to bolt for much of the way. It'll be a while before I can even think of that one.

We then returned to the left side of the crag, and Dan put up Deputy Dawg. I had another go on Whipping Boy, trying to dial in the footwork. Nadine and Lynsey went to work on the Deputy, while I took a good rest, and then threw myself at Whipping Boy again. This time, knowing I was near the end of my strength, I concentrated on my footwork, and finally managed to send it on TR. Next time I'm out there, I'll try to lead it, but I have to say that the third clip kinda scares me.

We were all feeling exhausted by this time, so despite there still being sunlight out to climb by, we headed back to the car. Nadine was also keenly insterested in finding out the score of the big game. We eventually managed to pick up a station from Salt Lake City, only to find out that the Raiders were getting trounced. This made us feel much better for having ventured outside instead of staying in town doing 12 ounce curls. We stopped off in Riverbank for the obligatory Mexican, and then caught the remaining minutes of the game, which reinforced our happiness in making the right decision.




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Nadine and Lynsey on Whipping Boy



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Looking across the valley



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Nadine on Deputy Dawg. Really looks like she's breaking her right hand!


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last modifed on: Friday, 21-Apr-2006 18:43:10 PDT