Two Capitals and Two Capitols: A 1900 View of the Post.

At the time this article was written, a new Capital building was under construction in Little Rock, intended to replace the Old State House, built in 1836. This new capitol was a political hot potato, and then Governor Jeff Davis had actually ran for election on a plaform promising to stop the new building.

This article, published just years before the Arkansas River would change course and cut off the Post, depicts the community in its final state of decline. By this time there were already few surviving remains of the old town, and the author provides an excellent capsule glimpse of the state of the town, such as it was.

Of particular interest is the interview of two elderly womoen who had spent their lives at Arkansas Post. Survivors of the French community, they have a unique outlook on how the Louisiana Purchase effected the Post - "oh, but they had good times until the Americans came and begun to build fences."

Two Capitals and Two Capitols.

During a brief stay with friends in the vicinity of Pendleton, in Desha county, last week, the “new capitol” celebration at Little Rock became the subject of conversation, and naturally branched to the first territorial capital, Arkansas Post, where the government was organized in July, 1819.

“The post is only five miles from here, and I believe the Arkansas Gazette was started there,” remarked one, “on the 20th of November, 1819?”

“Well,” said another, “as the Post is so near, and today is the 18th of November, let’s take a ride over there tomorrow and celebrate the anniversary, Tuesday, by taking a look over the ground and seeing what is left of the town and its people.”
The proposition was acceptable to all, but there was only one starter on the afternoon of the 19th. Undismayed by the rain, which overtook him about three miles from the Post, he persisted, and reached comfortable quarters at the hospitable home of Madame Forreste at the Post just before dark.

After supper a long and interesting conversation about old times, people and events was held with Madame Forreste and Mrs. Farrelly, widow of Thos. Farrelly (nephew of Col. Terrence Farrelly), who was visiting the madame. The names of many old settlers, French and American, were recalled and numerous anecdotes and incidents related in which they figured. Among them those of the Notrebes, father, wife and son, the Desruisseaux, a female member of which family became the wife of Jas. H. Lucas, later the famous banker of St. Louis; the Bogys, one of whom became a United States senator from Missouri; the Barraques, Bons, Imbeaus, Lefevres, Vallieres, Vaugines and the early Americans, Harold and Joseph Stillwell, who arrived at the Post in the latter years of the eighteenth century. But your columns have previously told all that in the eighty-one years they have been in business, and they shall not be further taxed.

From this talk it was soon apparent that the investigator had but a small task before him on the morrow. The old town and its original people were “all gone,” as Madame Forreste pathetically expressed it – “all gone – in the river.” The two ladies were, perhaps, the only representatives left of the two classes of people who dwelt at and in the close vicinity of the Post prior to the passage of the act of congress creating the territory of Arkansas. Madame Madeline Forreste was the daughter of Jean Jourdaloe and Cecile Julien, his wife, both parents descended from ancestors who came with the first French settlers. Those of her father came with Bienville and Iberville by way of Louisiana, where his relatives still live, and those of her mother from Canada, with LaSalle and DeTonti. The descendent of these have dwelt upon Arkansas soil from the earliest colonial – say 1680. Col. Terrence Farrelly settled at Arkansas Post in 1818 and later, on his plantation only a few miles distant, which is still the property of his descendants, who are numerous, one being on the editorial staff of the Gazette.

Madame Forreste was born and her childhood passed on her father’s farm at the west end of old South Bend, now a lake, which years later became a part of the Ben Desha, afterward Clay, plantation, noted in steamboat days as the “show plantation” of the Arkansas river. It is believed it is now the property of Maj. Sam Churchill. In her childhood, said Madame Forreste, “it was the most beautiful, the most charming home of the whole world.” She described her father as being “an awful wild fellow, but good, good, good.” In those days, said she, “there was no want for fresh meats every day of the year, and in the greatest variety. There were buffalo, deer, elk, bear, antelope, squirrels, prairie fowls, wild ducks, geese and pigeons in the woods, and in the river and smaller streams and lakes were fish in limitless abundance. There was e-v-e-r-ything one could wish.” The women and girls, men and boys had nothing to do but to have a good time. They had a free living at their doors for the picking up. “oh, but they had good times until the Americans came and begun to build fences.” And so the talk went on until a late hour, when madame suggested that Mrs. F. was an invalid and it was time for sleep. The investigator, though not weary, professed willingness and asked where he should go.

“I will put you in the pe-e-g pen; not in the chicken coop,” said the hostess, as she pointed the way to quarters, which were comfortable, but of state-room like dimensions.

“I hope there is no other pig to go in with me,” said the guest.

“N-o-o,” she said, laughing, “this is the chicken coop.”

The rain pattered a lullaby on the roof and was a material factor in a pleasant night’s sleep, untroubled by dreams of Quapaws or Osages, nor French or Spanish adventures.

The first discovery was that the old town had almost wholly gone into the river. There was not a single house left standing, and no ruins of any proportions. Not a vestige of the French or Spanish town as seen by Notrebes, Phillips, Harrold and Jos. Stillwell of the old citizens and subjects, and Allen, Horner, Andrew and Jno. R. H. Scott, Robert Crittenden, Wm. E. Woodruff, Roane, Lewis, Dave McKinney, Steven F. Austin, Oden, Russel and Matthew Lyon of the new-comers, on the morning the first issue of the Gazette was printed remains. The caving river bank during the eighty-two years since the new comers landed has carried the river over and past the original town site for a distance of more than a mile. The old houses are all gone. Of the handsome brick house built in the late 30’s, for the use of the branch of the Real Estate Bank, which stood as late as 1863, several blocks north of the steamboat landing, the foundation site remains, near the present river bank, and a few wheel-barrow loads of brickbats, which have not yet been requisitioned for modern uses. When Gen. J. McClerndan’s and Sherman’s army and fleet had got through with Gen. Churchill’s defenses, in the winter of 62-3, the big guns of the fleet were turned especially upon the conspicuous bank building (supposedly because it was constructed of brick and looked respectable), and knocked it “hither and yon.” In like manner they destroyed by fire wantonly of many houses of respectable appearance in the town and country adjacent to a distance of several miles. Some twenty acres or more of the old town site is still unencroached upon by the river. The trend of the caving bank being to the east and north, what remains is rendered bare and worthless by the washing of storm water, which has cut it into gullies, ridges and flats which resemble the desolated Colorado Canyon country in miniature. Of the fort so gallantly held by Gen. Churchill, in carrying out to the letter the orders of Gen. Holmes, a small corner remains, to the northeast of the old town a quarter of a mile away; also some vestiges of rifle pits.

The old cemetery has long since gone into the river, and the remains of the old French and Spanish settlers have been washed down with the current of the Arkansas and Mississippi rivers, and lodged all along the way to the gulf, where they await the final resurrection.

The bodies of the Federal soldiers, killed in the battle, were long since removed to the National cemeteries, but the graves of the Confederates remain; and unless some other disposition is made of them soon, will be undiscoverable in a little while. Men who fought so well for their cause deserve more generous treatment from the country for which they gave up their lives.

The new town, of 100 or more inhabitants, is situated to the northeast, adjacent to the old site. There are two or more stores, one of them, that of Mr. Henry Jones, carrying a heavy stock, and several smaller buildings. The adjacent country is very productive, and with better facilities for approach on the river side, a large commercial business ought to be transacted at this point. It is a very remarkable fact that a locality which has held so important a place in the history of Arkansas, and French exploration, enterprise and daring, around which cluster so many memories of renowned men from Marquette, Joliet, LaSalle, DeTonti and LaClede from the seventeenth century to the American cession, to say nothing of the names famous in territorial and state annals, should have descended to the unimportance of a country village. It is to be hoped that the extension of the Stuttgart and Arkansas River railroad, which is projected to strike the river at that place, or the creation of a new county, will give back to the old post something of its prestige.

In the early morning of the 20th, there was a magnificent double rainbow in the eastern sky, visible from the Post, each forming a perfect arch at the same time. Some hours later, while on the road to Gillett to take the cars for Stuttgart, almost a repetition of the phenomenon appeared, the difference being that the two perfect rainbows showed in the western sky, at an interval of only an hour between occurrences. The observer does not recall a similar instance on the same day. May he not, therefore, be considered excusable for taking all as an augury, portending a new and bright future for the ancient capital of the territory, as well as a show of promise of the future growth, prosperity and greatness of the new capital city and state now celebrating the foundation of the new capitol? And, further, for expressing the hope that the legislature that meets in January next will take action for the preservation of the old capitol and its square, as the one spot in Arkansas round which are gathered memories and affections that are dear to the people of every county, almost every township in the state. How greatly we would value the old capitol of it now stood at the Post of Arkansas. By that measure will it be valued if it continues to stand in site eighty-one years hence! It is strictly classical in design, barring the so called improvements at the north end, and has beautiful surroundings. Let’s destroy the unsightly north addition; tumble the group of measly Filipines from the roof into the river; subtruct a new foundation and preserve it forever!

Originally published in the Arkansas Gazette, December 2, 1900.