making wax candles

Making Candles with Beeswax
D. Sammataro, 2002

Candles were once the only source of light in homes all over the world. The basic components for candles are fuel, wicking and holder. Today, making candles is not only fun, but can be an art form or used in places of worship.
Many types of waxes, fats, and oils were used as fuel for candles. These fuels were collected from plants (bayberry wax), animal fats, insects (beeswax) and whale oil. Today, petroleum in the form of paraffin is the main source of candle wax. But while paraffin has its good qualities, beeswax has its own unique color and scent that make it a popular source of candle-making today.
It has been used for thousands of years, first in the Old World, then as bees were brought over with the early colonists, in the New World. Its value as a candle fuel comes from the high melting point; beeswax candles will not bend in hot weather. They also burn with a clear, smokeless light and give off that wonderfully sweet odor while burning.
The methods most commonly used for making beeswax candles are to pour molten wax into molds, to dip wicking into the melted wax or to roll a sheet of beeswax foundation around a wick.

THE WICK
Ancient candles, called splinter candles, used straight-grained pine sticks as wicks. Soon strings of linen or flax, then wool shearings were use in ancient Greece and Rome. Egyptians dipped reeds in beeswax and Eskimos used animal tissues for their stone blubber lamps.
Cotton was the next plant fiber to be used and was found to be superior for it's long lasting burning. However, the first wicks remained upright when burned, allowing a black mass or "cauliflower" to form which, unless trimmed off, dimmed the light and emitted dark smoke. It wasn't until 1825 when a Frenchman discovered that by braiding strands of cotton to make the wick, that it would bend over when burning, thus coming into contact with the hot, outer part of the flame. The "cauliflower" was then completely consumed, and did not need to be snuffed or trimmed.
When selecting wicking, make sure you purchase wicks for beeswax candles, not paraffin candles. Usually a square wick works best. In general, double the thickness of wick used for paraffin candles, but experiment or buy your wicking from bee supply stores. Make a test candle before preparing a larger batch. If your candles smoke, drip or form cauliflowers, change the wick.
Wicks for dipped, poured or rolled candles must be pre-waxed. Make a loop in the wicking and immerse it in 160 F (70C) beeswax until the air bubbles cease to rise. Hang the wicks by the loop until dry.

THE WAX
Many people don't realize they can get beeswax from local beekeepers. Look for beekeepers in your area, or from honey or bee supply shops.
If you are a beekeeper and want to sell wax, here is a simple guideline.
The best and lightest colored wax if from wax cappings, a by-product from honey extraction. Take the drained cappings and soak them in rainwater overnight. The next day, drain out the water, then place wet cappings in a stainless bucket or other wax melting device. DO NOT use iron or aluminum, as this will darken the wax. Heat over a double boiler, NOT on direct fire. Once the wax has melted, pour the molten wax through a filter and set it to cool.

You can also melt the cappings in a solar wax melter. This is wooden box with a glass cover and a metal pan. Place the cleaned cappings in an old stocking or cheesecloth bag to filter out the impurities. If you melt comb in a wax melter, the wax may be darker. Collect the drippings in a loaf pan for easy cleaning and re-melting.

CLEANING THE WAX
To get your wax clean enough to make into candles, you will need to do some more refining. Cut the block that came out of the wax metler into smaller pieces so they can melt faster. Put these pieces into an old pan or coffee tin INTO another pan of water. ALWAYS heat wax OVER WATER never over direct flame. Wax is extremely flammable. It is best to heat wax on an electric, not gas stove.
Once melted, you must strain your wax again, to make sure ALL fine debris and water is gone. Your candles will burn cleaner if all of this fine stuff is filtered out. Take a piece of cheesecloth and tie it over another cleaned and dried coffee tin or old metal container. On top of this cloth, place one sheet of facial tissue. Pour your wax through the filters. Allow it to drain out, change tissues and pour again. (These wax-filled tissues are great for starting grills or fireplace fires). Keep changing the tissues with each pouring until you have filtered all your wax. Make sure there is no water in the wax, or your candles will sputter.
Now you have cleaned wax, ready for the molds. You can pour this filtered wax into molds, or use an old percolater coffee maker: It will keep the wax liquid while you pour.
Be sure to separate the different colors of wax; don't mix them. Some people like dark candles, while others like lighter, yellow candles.

A. Wax that is first melted or even cleaned, can be poured into milk cartons for storage. Rip off the cardboard and you get a manageable-sized block of wax (left).

DIPPED CANDLES
This is a very old way of making beeswax candles. You will need a tall, narrow double boiler of wax, heated at 140 F (60C). You can purchase special candle dipping containers at candle supply or beekeeping supply stores. The pre-waxed wick is dipped into this wax, pulled out, then allowed to cool. Each dipping leaves a thin layer of wax on the wick. If you are doing this in large numbers, there are wicking jigs you can purchase that makes 10 or more candles at a time. Dip, walk around the room, and dip again.
Occasionally, you may need to roll the warm candles on a glass or formica counter to straighten them. Keep the base trimmed so the entire candle can be immersed, and keep filling the can with hot wax. When finished, trim the base flat with a knife. You can make several dozen dipped candles in relays, so you will never have to wait for one candle to dry.

POURING CANDLES
Poured candles make larger, longer candles. You will need, in addition to the double boiler of wax, an old ladle and an empty container to catch the poured wax.
Weigh down the bottom of a pre-waxed wick with a heavy hexagonal nut (1/2") should do. Then, holding the wick over the empty container, ladle some hot wax down the wick while spinning it to obtain an even distribution of the hot wax.
If the wax is too hot, it will just run into the container; if too cold, it will not reach the bottom of the wick. Let the candle dry between each pouring (make several candles at one time). When finished, cut off the nut and straighten the warm candle by rolling it between two sheets of glass.

MOLDS
There are many kinds of molds on the market, sold by candle making companies as well as beekeeping equipment suppliers. They range from metal tubes and decorative "cookie" molds, to rigid or flexible plastic sheets or tubes (See Photo A).
Warm metal molds to room temperature overnight or heat with a heat fan. This will slow the cooling time, essential for making beeswax candles. You can also buy a variety of molds to make ornaments, cakes or other wax objects.

A. Many kinds of molds from metal tapers to plastic 'bear' molds. The variety is endless.
B. Pour over a tray filled with sand so the molds and stand upright and you won't wreck a table top if the wax spills.

Make sure the inside of the molds are clean and free of any particles that would discolor your candle. You may lightly spray or coat the inside of the mold with a silicone release or spray pan oil. Glycerine, liquid detergent or a mixture of the two are also used on ceramic molds. Paint liquid soap with a brush into the crevices of complicated molds, but leave no bubbles. Allow this to dry overnight, and be careful not to get TOO MUCH of this material or it could cause the opposite affect make your candles stick! You can also lightly dust molds with flour or talc; this works very well.
Set the wick in the mold. A good anchor for this is masking tape. This helps cover the hole and hold the wax in place. To hold the wick straight, use a toothpick, bobby pin or other stick. Now clamp the mold together with clips and set it upright in a pan of sand or other appropriate holding material.

MAKING CANDLES
Heat the wax to no more than 185F (85C). Start at 140 F (60C) and work your way up; the hotter temperatures will discolor the wax. Pour molten wax into the warmed molds. Allow it to set a little, then fill in any shrinkage holes on the top with more hot wax. Pry open the wax skin with a toothpick so you can see how big the hole is. You may have to do this several times. By opening the skin, the candle will not be so inclined to pull out of shape.
Slow cooling is best for beeswax, as it will not crack or distort as with rapid cooling. So be Patient. You can stand the mold in warm water or wrap it in newspaper. Put it in a draft-free area and let it cool. Before un-molding, make sure the candle mold and wax is cold to the touch. If possible, wait until the next day to un-mold your candles.
Impatience has ruined many candles. Pry apart the plastic molds to reveal your candle or ornament. To hang ornaments, use ribbon instead of wicking. Large candles, especially if the molds are metal, may need to be left overnight. If a metal mold still sticks, put it in the freezer for 15 minutes; then a sharp tap should release the candle. Allow candles to air dry for 24 hours then wrap it in tissue to keep it safe. Don't worry about the whitish "bloom" that will eventually coat the wax . This is a natural part of all waxes, (including chocolate) and is easily removed with a cloth.

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